did a head gasket job a year ago. its back in my garage now because either i have a bad valve guide/seal or the valve is not a perfect seal. need to take my cylinder head to work and have my master tech take it apart with me and see what went wrong. thank you for the info ray!!
Thanks! Be sure to check out my video on valve grinding/lapping a week ago. You might enjoy that. I show leak down testing the head as well as lapping the valves. Good luck on your rebuild over there!
So what your saying is if you drop the chain it can drop off the bottom sprocket? I think thats what happened to me. So if it does that do i scratch the colored links and go off tdc on crank and tdc on cam?
Yeah if the chain slip down then sometimes what happens is on the lower gear it will bunch up and/or jump a tooth. If that is the case, disregard the shinny link BS and just put the motor at TDC (using the piston) on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 and install the cam sprocket w/ the dowel at 12 o'clock (the dot on the gear itself should be slightly counter clockwise from straight up and down when looking at the gear from the front of the vehicle. Once you get that, you can roll the motor over a couple of times and confirm the piston is at TDC and the dowel is at high noon - that will rule out any binding on the chain, etc. If you have an adjustable sprocket, then ideally you'd wanna use dial indicators on the motor as well as the card which came w/ your cam, etc. But for factory stuff that is non-adjustable just use TDC and the cam sprocket gear dowel as your guide.
Some of the bolts are 12-point ARP stainless hardware and some of just allen cap screws from McMaster.com (also stainless). Just random bolts I had in the shop mostly.
Hahah Lol. "One belt to rule them all and in the darkness bind them". haha. Yeah, so I converted my truck to an electric fan in order to free up HP and try to improve gas mileage and simplify things up front there. I threw away my P/S and basically was trying to open up some space and make things easy to work on down there, so I could replace the belt quickly on the side of the road if ever needed. Anyway, that polished aluminum water pump pulley came from LCE and I have it held on to the water pump with some Titanium bolts. It runs over to the 140A alternator and then down to a Dayco 2 groove front harmonic damper. I had to cut and measure to figure out what Dayco belt to buy, but eventually got it all on there as you see now. I like that it's all simple / uncluttered and just 1 easy to access belt now. Makes life a lot easier. Converting to the electric fan was a job and a half though, let me tell ya.
Won't be long now. Maybe another week or so. I'm about to set the valve lash and final camshaft timing now. I'm slowly putting all the parts back on the motor. I'll try to make a video when I fire her back up.
@Ray Nada i left mine with gas in it for 6 months its a 1987 toyota pickup 22r carborated with a weber im doing a engine rebuild starting it for the first time will the gas be good still it has no electronics? Its not gonna blow a valve or anything right the old gas?
@@chefrobertcaldas Yeah, gas should be fine. I keep a few gallons of gas around for my chainsaws and stuff here. Every few years I pour it all into my truck and go fresh gas from Chevron. Even if the gas is 5 or 10 years old, it should work just fine.
@@chefrobertcaldas Gas is gas... the BMW won't care either. The only time things get maybe a hair more critical is when using direct gas injection at 2000 PSI, but even then probably wouldn't make much difference. The fuel filter keeps the fuel clean and it comes out of the pump super clean as well. Even if you let it sit around for months and months, it's not gonna matter a hell of a lot either way.
Well, I also have an adjustable timing gear and was dialing in a mild camshaft. Keep in mind also, if you are rebuilding the 22RE and/or it has a log of miles on it and things have started to stretch, just bolting everything up "stock" doesn't usually give you correct timing. This is why LCE sells that adjustable cam sprocket, so you can actually compensate for wear on the motor and dial the cam exactly in according to the specification on lift, opening duration, etc.
Dude I came here to watch you install a timing chain without removing the cover and you somehow managed to accomplish absolutely none of it on camera and titled the video as such.....
Yeah, you might have a point there. I updated the title of the video to better reflect the content I'm covering. I don't think it's possible to install a new timing chain without removing the front cover, given that the chain needs to clear the nose of the crankshaft (and the cover blocks that area).
did a head gasket job a year ago. its back in my garage now because either i have a bad valve guide/seal or the valve is not a perfect seal. need to take my cylinder head to work and have my master tech take it apart with me and see what went wrong. thank you for the info ray!!
Thanks! Be sure to check out my video on valve grinding/lapping a week ago. You might enjoy that. I show leak down testing the head as well as lapping the valves. Good luck on your rebuild over there!
Nice video. Thank you.
So what your saying is if you drop the chain it can drop off the bottom sprocket? I think thats what happened to me. So if it does that do i scratch the colored links and go off tdc on crank and tdc on cam?
Yeah if the chain slip down then sometimes what happens is on the lower gear it will bunch up and/or jump a tooth. If that is the case, disregard the shinny link BS and just put the motor at TDC (using the piston) on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 and install the cam sprocket w/ the dowel at 12 o'clock (the dot on the gear itself should be slightly counter clockwise from straight up and down when looking at the gear from the front of the vehicle. Once you get that, you can roll the motor over a couple of times and confirm the piston is at TDC and the dowel is at high noon - that will rule out any binding on the chain, etc. If you have an adjustable sprocket, then ideally you'd wanna use dial indicators on the motor as well as the card which came w/ your cam, etc. But for factory stuff that is non-adjustable just use TDC and the cam sprocket gear dowel as your guide.
@@ray5961 thx dawg, life saver
what bolt kit did you use on your timing cover?
Some of the bolts are 12-point ARP stainless hardware and some of just allen cap screws from McMaster.com (also stainless). Just random bolts I had in the shop mostly.
What type of sci-fi water pump + belt set up is that??
Hahah Lol. "One belt to rule them all and in the darkness bind them". haha. Yeah, so I converted my truck to an electric fan in order to free up HP and try to improve gas mileage and simplify things up front there. I threw away my P/S and basically was trying to open up some space and make things easy to work on down there, so I could replace the belt quickly on the side of the road if ever needed. Anyway, that polished aluminum water pump pulley came from LCE and I have it held on to the water pump with some Titanium bolts. It runs over to the 140A alternator and then down to a Dayco 2 groove front harmonic damper. I had to cut and measure to figure out what Dayco belt to buy, but eventually got it all on there as you see now. I like that it's all simple / uncluttered and just 1 easy to access belt now. Makes life a lot easier. Converting to the electric fan was a job and a half though, let me tell ya.
Nice when is first start up?! I wanna see
Won't be long now. Maybe another week or so. I'm about to set the valve lash and final camshaft timing now. I'm slowly putting all the parts back on the motor. I'll try to make a video when I fire her back up.
@Ray Nada i left mine with gas in it for 6 months its a 1987 toyota pickup 22r carborated with a weber im doing a engine rebuild starting it for the first time will the gas be good still it has no electronics? Its not gonna blow a valve or anything right the old gas?
@@chefrobertcaldas Yeah, gas should be fine. I keep a few gallons of gas around for my chainsaws and stuff here. Every few years I pour it all into my truck and go fresh gas from Chevron. Even if the gas is 5 or 10 years old, it should work just fine.
@Ray Nada oh ok shouldn't hurt a 22r motor right i mean maybe like a brand new BMW that needs special fuel injectors and computers process the fuel
@@chefrobertcaldas Gas is gas... the BMW won't care either. The only time things get maybe a hair more critical is when using direct gas injection at 2000 PSI, but even then probably wouldn't make much difference. The fuel filter keeps the fuel clean and it comes out of the pump super clean as well. Even if you let it sit around for months and months, it's not gonna matter a hell of a lot either way.
What year is your truck? Thanks
Mine is a 1990 2WD
These engines are pretty basic to set up cam timing, you just made it sound so so difficult.
Well, I also have an adjustable timing gear and was dialing in a mild camshaft. Keep in mind also, if you are rebuilding the 22RE and/or it has a log of miles on it and things have started to stretch, just bolting everything up "stock" doesn't usually give you correct timing. This is why LCE sells that adjustable cam sprocket, so you can actually compensate for wear on the motor and dial the cam exactly in according to the specification on lift, opening duration, etc.
Dude I came here to watch you install a timing chain without removing the cover and you somehow managed to accomplish absolutely none of it on camera and titled the video as such.....
Yeah, you might have a point there. I updated the title of the video to better reflect the content I'm covering. I don't think it's possible to install a new timing chain without removing the front cover, given that the chain needs to clear the nose of the crankshaft (and the cover blocks that area).