Your gadget saved the day. I used a wire hanger with a section of an old wind chime. I destroyed a head gasket and wasted a small tube of gasket before watching this video. Thanks!
Bro are you in the Sacramento area. I need your skills to do this exact job in my 92 Toyota pickup. No ac no power steering so there less bs to deal with
Wow, this is exactly what I needed to see since I'm in the middle of replacing my broken plastic chain guides (w/ new chain, sprockets, tensioner, oil/water pumps, etc as well). Perfect timing, pun not intended haha
The timing chain tensioner holder is brilliant. Have struggled with a couple of these over the years. Glad I came across that little trick, getting ready to do a chain/guides/timing cover on my 87. FYI, on the 4x4 versions of this truck, there is just enough room to squeak the oil pan out without pulling the motor. You have to drop the pan and reach in and unbolt the pickup tube/screen as well loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up. IIRC, the front driveshaft has to come out too. Ones that have a suspension lift are easier.
Hi Ron Williams, this trick is nice. I use a bungee cord or some times a wire to wrap that sprocket and timing chain in place and hook it up to a piece of long wood going across the top of the body of truck. :) Thanks for the great video Ron Williams.
So, in my 35 years worth of experience playing with the single link timing chain on this 22R/22 Re:, if you pull the cylinder head then you put the new timing chain components on and set up The chain on the crank and cam gear marks with the marked links corresponding to the marked teeth on each gear, sag the chain to the passenger side and keep the bottom of the chain tight up against the bottom gear by wedging the cam gear with the chain on it between the guides. You’ve got to leave all the slack of the chain on top of the crank gear in front of the timing chain tensioner block. That way when you go to slide the timing cover on and seal it to the block and oil pan, the chain keeper on the timing cover slides underneath the chain. I always put a thin film of ultra gray silicone on the pan on the bottom of the cover, then put a thin film on the passenger and driver side timing cover gaskets and Bolt tte cover on with the gear cradled by the timing chain guides. Once the cylinder head is installed and torqued on top of the timing cover it is easy to put the cam gear on by putting a large screwdriver or prybar in the center of the gear and pry gently down against the cylinder head, lifting the gear, then with The other hand, reach down to the crank pulley and by rocking the crank clockwise and counterclockwise slightly you walk the tensioner back into its cylinder and get enough slack on the chain to slide The gear on the cam. Don’t forget that upper timing cover bolt that goes through the cylinder head before you put the distributor drive gear on the cam. Do not over tighten the bolt or you will crack the timing cover. 😉👌👍
Thank you Alex for writing this, it's obvious that you know what you are writing about. I've written a few lengthy paragraphs myself over the years. You can watch 3 videos on this topic and see lots of interesting things, some work, some don't. Jim
Tell me about the copper spray. I was going to coat the gaskets with High Tack . On an 89 4WD I have mad eh the dreadful mistake of loosening the oil pan instead. I have broken the seal on it and it cannot come out without lifting the engine up so now I have to prepare the entire seal blindly and carefully with a mirror, make sure that I have applied the right amount of gray stuff
DON"T forget to clean out those screw hols the old silicone will not compress and on some vehicle the cover will crack after tightening bolts so please clean out hole's before the installing process, it will save you a lot of grief.
Tha k you so much for this I just got into a celica with a 22r/re and hand the engine rebuilt but got the engine back with out the timeing cover/chain on I'm entirely new to this engine series and I got most of it figured out but this forsure helped me figure out how to get that cover back on thanks a bunch!
I used a long flat head screwdriver from the top after i put the head and bolts on, the screw driver reaches down and you lean it against the chain to push the tensioner back in whilst you pull the top sprocket up with chain on and mount it onto cam shaft.
A couple of things to note. 1 I suggest applying the silicone to the front edge of the oil pan lip. That way as you slide the front cover in place it is pushed across the lip rather than at the back edge where as the small amount you put on the front lip gathers it wont push the bulk off into the pan. 2 , If you look on the label of Permatex silicone it tells you that each color is designed for different applications. Red is for heat as in exhaust manifolds, egr valves etc, blue is for coolant areas, black is for oil areas non compressed. Like the oil pan to lower edge of the front cover. Gray is for oil areas that are compressed .Like the front cover face to the block surface.
Thanks for this video you seem very knowledgeable. I have a question my timing chain guides for my1987 22 RE keep breaking after about a year. is it a good idea to get the steel guides?
@@therockwhispers you can use a hose clamp around the tensioner pistón. It wont move and it wont ever break your guides. use a flat screwdriver and thight that clamp hard
I have a question I hope you may be able to answer. I just recently did all this, engine out of the truck. Checked timing a million times before I put the motor back in the truck as well. Put everything on and disconnected the distributor to prime the motor. Everything went swimmingly until I plugged the distributor back in and then the timing jumped fairly far, and I'm sure bent the shit out of my valves too. Now I've got to do it all over again but I am concerned on how could it have jumped time like that? Did I get a bad tensioner? I'm just scared that when I rebuild the head, it'll jump time again.
Don't really need that wedge tool. Just take a rod(old rocker shaft will do) and put the crank bolt on tight. Then take the rod/shaft and put tension up on the cam gear(through the hole) while taking a socket/breaker bar and rocking the crank/chain/sprocket back and forth. The gear will walk right onto the cam and the tensioner will push back into place. Either way works though.
This seems like the hard way to do things. I personally pulled the oil pan to make sure that there weren’t any timing chain pieces in it that would clog the pick up. Then when re assembling just put the timing cover on first then re seal the oil pan afterwards. No need to pull the head either.
I just purchased an 87 toyota pickup to replace my 90 that was totaled. It has almost 230,000 miles. I assume the timing guides have had to been replaced, but I don't want to take that risk. I ordered a kit with steel guides. Any tips on this job? I just changed the oil, and I figured I'd drive it for a couple thousand miles before I take on this job. Any other tips on the process without pulling the head?
Exactly what I was thinking. Unless the head is off for reconditioning, it's much less work to just lower the oil pan. This way the oil pan can be cleaned out and when refitting there is one continuous re-sealing that mates up proper to the cover that is already fixed in place, and first mated to the head. A priority is not to disturb the head, because once the head bolts are out and the head is lifted, the head gasket should be replaced. It "may" be okay not to, but is best to be sure not to invite the possibility for head gasket problems. Lazy me don't like doing things twice.
This will work but still not needed you can use a pry bar/screwdriver to compress the tensioner or rotate crankshaft.if you do this just make sure you use a super slim tube or you wont be able pull it out of timing cover and you will have to take it all apart again.
Does Toyota service at the dealerships use such as your invented tool as you do to hold the tensioner in place? I wonder if their method for replacing the chain is similar to yours in all respects, assuming they also had to remove the head.
why did you not mention that you need to add ultra gray RTV to the top of the timing cover at the corners just like at the bottom? also someone asked about a leak near the oil pump. make sure that the top bolt (right under the timing marker) that goes through the oil pump and into the cover has sealant on it. same for the hidden bolt on the top of the timing cover to head. both needs sealant. but great video.
Or you could put the chain on the cam sprocket slide it through the head put it on the bottom sprocket. Bolt it to the cam then install the guieds and tentioner then the timing cover but ffs torgue the head bolts first. youre making it harder than it needs to be... Dont forget to soak your timing chain for a few hours
Taking cylinder head loose and putting back down doesn’t cause head gasket failure? Seems like if you are pulling it loose, replacement would be a good idea
thanks for the video Ron. I was wondering if it would be possible to put the head and gasket on after the timing chain and cover were in place with the nice tentioner trick you show?
I have bought a new bare 22r cylinder head without valves and everything. The guz who were installing the cylinder head decided to transfer old valves, springs and everything in a new head. After that I noticed there was a knock or clutter sound after the valves were adjusted and I dont understand where it came from. Please help
Question just had a new head installed and leaking at the cover. Everything is back together is the head gasket ruined if I take it back apart and left it up as shown here. Also the studs were already torqued down do I have to get new stud bolts? Or can I just listen every thing aply the ultra grey at bottom and top and put it back together?
do you repaired service or have any one that you might know to give me estimate. I'm in Temecula, Ca. area My 95 need new cover. the problem water pump housing that connect to hose has corrosion and broke off. Now the water leak.
When I did the same job on my '85 Toyota pickup, I was able to do it without loosening the cylinder head and I put metal chain guides in (from someplace in L. A.) rather than replacing the plastic broken ones with new plastic ones. I just can't figure why automobile manufacturers are using plastic parts INSIDE engines?
YES, THATS MADE CLEAR IN VIDEO. THE TRUCK IN THIS VIDEO HAD A BLOWN HEAD GASKET. SO I FIGURED I WOULD SHOW HOW I DO IT. PS TOP OF COVER STILL DRY AFTER ALL THIS TIME. ITS A REGULAR CUSTOMER.
All u have to do for the oil pan is loosen it,it dont have a gasket unless so.eone made one...NONE have em from the factory...in addition,put your gears on,put your tensioner and guide on that side,instal other guide then unclip your tensioner...no need whatsoever to make that jury rigged 1.5 inch gadget...
this is a big joke! your timing chain holder tool will end up saying in your timing case. the right-hand side chain guide bolt won't let your tool pass theirs only 10mm gap once the covers on
This is why the 22re in my 91 4x4 is getting replaced with a 5.7L chevy. I'm not in the least bit impressed with this engine. Its too complex for what it is and does.
I've got an oil leak after replacing the oil pump's main seal and pump to timing cover gasket. The oil is coming from the left bolt dowel for the oil pump that you mentioned in this video. Is this a failure in the timing cover gasket?
Ron Williams yes, I made a cardboard template with holes to be sure they went back to their proper place. Also made sure to use Toyota`s torque values.
Ron Williams no, I haven't. I found it odd that the oil would be coming from under that bolt head if that were the case. I found two instances of others this happened to on the web, but no conclusion was ever reported. I would owe it to myself to check that though before I tear out the timing cover
Your gadget saved the day. I used a wire hanger with a section of an old wind chime. I destroyed a head gasket and wasted a small tube of gasket before watching this video. Thanks!
Bro are you in the Sacramento area. I need your skills to do this exact job in my 92 Toyota pickup.
No ac no power steering so there less bs to deal with
Wow, this is exactly what I needed to see since I'm in the middle of replacing my broken plastic chain guides (w/ new chain, sprockets, tensioner, oil/water pumps, etc as well). Perfect timing, pun not intended haha
The timing chain tensioner holder is brilliant. Have struggled with a couple of these over the years. Glad I came across that little trick, getting ready to do a chain/guides/timing cover on my 87.
FYI, on the 4x4 versions of this truck, there is just enough room to squeak the oil pan out without pulling the motor. You have to drop the pan and reach in and unbolt the pickup tube/screen as well loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up. IIRC, the front driveshaft has to come out too. Ones that have a suspension lift are easier.
Hi Ron Williams, this trick is nice. I use a bungee cord or some times a wire to wrap that sprocket and timing chain in place and hook it up to a piece of long wood going across the top of the body of truck. :) Thanks for the great video Ron Williams.
So, in my 35 years worth of experience playing with the single link timing chain on this 22R/22 Re:, if you pull the cylinder head then you put the new timing chain components on and set up The chain on the crank and cam gear marks with the marked links corresponding to the marked teeth on each gear, sag the chain to the passenger side and keep the bottom of the chain tight up against the bottom gear by wedging the cam gear with the chain on it between the guides. You’ve got to leave all the slack of the chain on top of the crank gear in front of the timing chain tensioner block. That way when you go to slide the timing cover on and seal it to the block and oil pan, the chain keeper on the timing cover slides underneath the chain. I always put a thin film of ultra gray silicone on the pan on the bottom of the cover, then put a thin film on the passenger and driver side timing cover gaskets and Bolt tte cover on with the gear cradled by the timing chain guides. Once the cylinder head is installed and torqued on top of the timing cover it is easy to put the cam gear on by putting a large screwdriver or prybar in the center of the gear and pry gently down against the cylinder head, lifting the gear, then with The other hand, reach down to the crank pulley and by rocking the crank clockwise and counterclockwise slightly you walk the tensioner back into its cylinder and get enough slack on the chain to slide The gear on the cam. Don’t forget that upper timing cover bolt that goes through the cylinder head before you put the distributor drive gear on the cam. Do not over tighten the bolt or you will crack the timing cover. 😉👌👍
Thank you Alex for writing this, it's obvious that you know what you are writing about. I've written a few lengthy paragraphs myself over the years. You can watch 3 videos on this topic and see lots of interesting things, some work, some don't. Jim
Rotating the crank back and forth, while pulling up on the timing chain will compress the tensioner as well.
Tell me about the copper spray. I was going to coat the gaskets with High Tack . On an 89 4WD I have mad eh the dreadful mistake of loosening the oil pan instead. I have broken the seal on it and it cannot come out without lifting the engine up so now I have to prepare the entire seal blindly and carefully with a mirror, make sure that I have applied the right amount of gray stuff
I don't know what I learned from this vid but I know I learned something
DON"T forget to clean out those screw hols the old silicone will not compress and on some vehicle the cover will crack after tightening bolts so please clean out hole's before the installing process, it will save you a lot of grief.
Its not very often I agree with the comments but this idea is a good one. I missed that step in video
Nice trick on the chain tensioner holder.
Steve
Thank you for this video. Just going to start replacing a broken guide. This will save me from pulling the engine out and removing the pan.
Great tip! But can still drop oil pan and not need this step?
Yes you can drop the oil pan, that's what I did on mine
@@knuckle_dragger thats what I do much sampler
Tha k you so much for this I just got into a celica with a 22r/re and hand the engine rebuilt but got the engine back with out the timeing cover/chain on I'm entirely new to this engine series and I got most of it figured out but this forsure helped me figure out how to get that cover back on thanks a bunch!
Awesome video. Thank God for technology like this and people like you. Thanks for patience
He done a good job teaching the video
that was the best video I have seen Thanks for the great tutorial
I used a long flat head screwdriver from the top after i put the head and bolts on, the screw driver reaches down and you lean it against the chain to push the tensioner back in whilst you pull the top sprocket up with chain on and mount it onto cam shaft.
A couple of things to note. 1 I suggest applying the silicone to the front edge of the oil pan lip. That way as you slide the front cover in place it is pushed across the lip rather than at the back edge where as the small amount you put on the front lip gathers it wont push the bulk off into the pan. 2 , If you look on the label of Permatex silicone it tells you that each color is designed for different applications. Red is for heat as in exhaust manifolds, egr valves etc, blue is for coolant areas, black is for oil areas non compressed. Like the oil pan to lower edge of the front cover. Gray is for oil areas that are compressed .Like the front cover face to the block surface.
Thanks for this video you seem very knowledgeable. I have a question my timing chain guides for my1987 22 RE keep breaking after about a year. is it a good idea to get the steel guides?
@@therockwhispers you can use a hose clamp around the tensioner pistón. It wont move and it wont ever break your guides. use a flat screwdriver and thight that clamp hard
I have a question I hope you may be able to answer. I just recently did all this, engine out of the truck. Checked timing a million times before I put the motor back in the truck as well. Put everything on and disconnected the distributor to prime the motor. Everything went swimmingly until I plugged the distributor back in and then the timing jumped fairly far, and I'm sure bent the shit out of my valves too. Now I've got to do it all over again but I am concerned on how could it have jumped time like that? Did I get a bad tensioner? I'm just scared that when I rebuild the head, it'll jump time again.
Thank you very much for the two for the tensioner that very smart
Tool
Don't really need that wedge tool. Just take a rod(old rocker shaft will do) and put the crank bolt on tight. Then take the rod/shaft and put tension up on the cam gear(through the hole) while taking a socket/breaker bar and rocking the crank/chain/sprocket back and forth. The gear will walk right onto the cam and the tensioner will push back into place. Either way works though.
Very nice, thank you, Jim
This seems like the hard way to do things. I personally pulled the oil pan to make sure that there weren’t any timing chain pieces in it that would clog the pick up. Then when re assembling just put the timing cover on first then re seal the oil pan afterwards. No need to pull the head either.
I just purchased an 87 toyota pickup to replace my 90 that was totaled. It has almost 230,000 miles. I assume the timing guides have had to been replaced, but I don't want to take that risk. I ordered a kit with steel guides. Any tips on this job? I just changed the oil, and I figured I'd drive it for a couple thousand miles before I take on this job. Any other tips on the process without pulling the head?
Exactly what I was thinking. Unless the head is off for reconditioning, it's much less work to just lower the oil pan. This way the oil pan can be cleaned out and when refitting there is one continuous re-sealing that mates up proper to the cover that is already fixed in place, and first mated to the head. A priority is not to disturb the head, because once the head bolts are out and the head is lifted, the head gasket should be replaced. It "may" be okay not to, but is best to be sure not to invite the possibility for head gasket problems. Lazy me don't like doing things twice.
Thoughts on price to replace the timing chain guide?
Pretty sure this video saved me . THX
This will work but still not needed you can use a pry bar/screwdriver to compress the tensioner or rotate crankshaft.if you do this just make sure you use a super slim tube or you wont be able pull it out of timing cover and you will have to take it all apart again.
Reviving this video.. Thank You very much. This is a great tip
Does Toyota service at the dealerships use such as your invented tool as you do to hold
the tensioner in place? I wonder if their method for replacing the chain is similar to yours in
all respects, assuming they also had to remove the head.
why did you not mention that you need to add ultra gray RTV to the top of the timing cover at the corners just like at the bottom? also someone asked about a leak near the oil pump. make sure that the top bolt (right under the timing marker) that goes through the oil pump and into the cover has sealant on it. same for the hidden bolt on the top of the timing cover to head. both needs sealant. but great video.
Or you could put the chain on the cam sprocket slide it through the head put it on the bottom sprocket. Bolt it to the cam then install the guieds and tentioner then the timing cover but ffs torgue the head bolts first. youre making it harder than it needs to be... Dont forget to soak your timing chain for a few hours
So if I don't take the head off I have to drop the pan?
Taking cylinder head loose and putting back down doesn’t cause head gasket failure? Seems like if you are pulling it loose, replacement would be a good idea
Thank you sensei, much needed master secret.
thanks for the video Ron. I was wondering if it would be possible to put the head and gasket on after the timing chain and cover were in place with the nice tentioner trick you show?
thanks alot for the info im getting ready to do my timing chain cover along with new head and gaskets
does a bad timing chain make the truck shake like crazy in idle and shakes more when on drive idle?
How do I get to the timming chain what do I have to remove to get there
I have bought a new bare 22r cylinder head without valves and everything. The guz who were installing the cylinder head decided to transfer old valves, springs and everything in a new head. After that I noticed there was a knock or clutter sound after the valves were adjusted and I dont understand where it came from. Please help
Question just had a new head installed and leaking at the cover. Everything is back together is the head gasket ruined if I take it back apart and left it up as shown here. Also the studs were already torqued down do I have to get new stud bolts? Or can I just listen every thing aply the ultra grey at bottom and top and put it back together?
Call me again on Monday. I'll talk with ya
@@SandCarServices thanks so much will do have a great weekend
How many hours does this take?
Eres un buen mecánico hermano
good job on the mess ups helped me more then ppl rush shit
saludos una pregunta. el kit de cadena del motor 22r es igual al del motor 20r
Saw your face @09:27 forgot oil pump drive.
Excellent Video, will use.
Did you forget the oil pump drive spline?
I thought that at first as well but he doesn’t have the oil pump assembled to the cover yet, so it’s not an issue.
Lone thing I need to to say is the timing chain in a toyota pick up plastic or metal
Help.
do you repaired service or have any one that you might know to give me estimate. I'm in Temecula, Ca. area My 95 need new cover. the problem water pump housing that connect to hose has corrosion and broke off. Now the water leak.
+numthai68 let me check
How much do you charge to rebuild a toyota 89 pickup 2wd 2.4 22r engine?
When I did the same job on my '85 Toyota pickup, I was able to do it without loosening the cylinder head and I put metal chain guides in (from someplace in L. A.) rather than replacing the plastic broken ones with new plastic ones. I just can't figure why automobile manufacturers are using plastic parts INSIDE engines?
Now when it wears it will send metal shavings through the engine. Sounds a lot better than plastic!
Hello, from Chile.
If I have the stock with its bolts tightened, does it affect me to install the base of the water pump?
Hello, can I put new timing cover gasket without removing the cylinder head?
+Stetson Jnr Mothoiwa yes, but its very difficult because you have to remove and install the timing cover in a tight spot
Ok, thank you. My 22R is leaking all around the timing cover.
I guess even taking the oil pan off , the locating dowels make life difficult to not lift the head.
Timing cover cost price
WOW!!!
951 to the 909 😊
Good job Thank you for the info.
great job .Thank You
You don't have to take off the head to do the chain and he didn't apply FIPG to the top of the cover when installing.
YES, THATS MADE CLEAR IN VIDEO. THE TRUCK IN THIS VIDEO HAD A BLOWN HEAD GASKET. SO I FIGURED I WOULD SHOW HOW I DO IT. PS TOP OF COVER STILL DRY AFTER ALL THIS TIME. ITS A REGULAR CUSTOMER.
All u have to do for the oil pan is loosen it,it dont have a gasket unless so.eone made one...NONE have em from the factory...in addition,put your gears on,put your tensioner and guide on that side,instal other guide then unclip your tensioner...no need whatsoever to make that jury rigged 1.5 inch gadget...
Yeah my chain isint that loose
You need a mic on your collar or hat brim.
Forgot to thank you for the video. Good info. Thanks.
Yes, but I'm still in a learning mode when it comes to all this tech stuff! LOL
this is a big joke! your timing chain holder tool will end up saying in your timing case. the right-hand side chain guide bolt won't let your tool pass theirs only 10mm gap once the covers on
Umm.....
This is why the 22re in my 91 4x4 is getting replaced with a 5.7L chevy. I'm not in the least bit impressed with this engine. Its too complex for what it is and does.
this video didnt finish helpin g me did it?????
Saw your face going to have nightmares...
I've got an oil leak after replacing the oil pump's main seal and pump to timing cover gasket. The oil is coming from the left bolt dowel for the oil pump that you mentioned in this video. Is this a failure in the timing cover gasket?
+tee to hard to say without seeing it. Did you make sure all pump bolts are in correct place? They are not all the same length.
Ron Williams yes, I made a cardboard template with holes to be sure they went back to their proper place. Also made sure to use Toyota`s torque values.
+tee to have you taken it back apart to see if you pinched the oring seal?
Ron Williams no, I haven't. I found it odd that the oil would be coming from under that bolt head if that were the case. I found two instances of others this happened to on the web, but no conclusion was ever reported. I would owe it to myself to check that though before I tear out the timing cover
tee to So what did YOU find? It would be nice to know the Fix, for sure! Thanks!