This is the real deal when it comes to window restoration. Impressive video and really appreciate the in depth explanation. I've done lots of repair work but never with resin. Excellent stuff thank you
Fantastic video, had me grinning all the way through with recognition of someone doing a proper job. 👍 I've been restoring windows for 30 years: got introduced to Repair Care in the 90s (Window Care then) by Bob Cherry who demonstrated it's use. This is the first time I've seen someone real world demonstrating this method, which gives a long term solution to the sorts of problems found on wet rot affected exterior timbers. Sounds like you've done their course - the use of the term 'buttering up' may have given it away.🙂 The main issue with 2 pack fillers like ronseal or car body filler, is they're brittle (that's why they sand so easily!) and won't move with the timber - essentially it's inbuilt obsolescence - the vast majority of you tube videos dealing with these sorts of issues, use these sorts of 2 part fillers, demonstrating they don't understand the limitations of these materials and how timber flexes in different temperatures/humidities. The best thing to do when you come across their use is to remove them, in my experience you often find them placed over the top of ''hardened' wet rot, as a sort of packing. The only use for them is to guide you to these sorts of papered over issues. Out of interest, do you know what paint system was used over these repairs?
Sometimes I look at jobs with extensive rot in bog standard off the shelf frames and either avoid the job or recommend total replacement. But if they are historic/original frames beautifully made they are worth restoring. Very satisfying knowing them Windows have been there a long time and you have now extended that further.
Brilliant skills on display. The key here is preparation, cut out all the rot and prime. Personally I replace all timber with timber. But a good mix of both methods here 👍
Thank you for making this video I just bought a 100-year-old house and every single window has rotted along the bottom and sides. They are beautiful windows and I didn't want to have to replace them so thank you for giving me another option 🙂
Ideally, take out the windows completely and replace rotten wood with new wood using no resin. That said, I appreciate this guy's honesty in explaining the high cost of the resin and not wanting to disturb the inside. Fair play. Most likely the customer didn't want to/couldn't afford to pay for a more lengthy full deconstruction and repair.
Great work. Just a note, stop repeating "its doesn't matter its rough" "its meant to look old" " it doesn't matter the joints aren't perfect"!!!! Mate, you're a great craftsman, be confident in what you're doing. All that matters, is the end product (which looks great) stop worrying about the negative comments, middle finger to them, just let your work shine 😊👍🏻❤
Love the video. Fantastic workmanship I live in York and I've done so many rotten timber repairs over the past year mostly sliding sash window restoration. The repair care system is fantastic.
Nice job, really well explained too. This is a product I didn’t know existed and I can see it would be much better than exterior wood filler which I have used in the past. 👍
Fabulous video, really practical tips and easy to follow approach. I was really concerned how to tackle a similar window with a simpler profile, now going to get the resin tomorrow and get going! Thanks.
Some posters are critical of this repair, but I'm sure there were good reasons for it (rather than a replacement) and this is a very helpful video for those of us fixing windows and doors without a budget or a workshop and access to materials for having period replicas pieces made.
What it doesn't show is I repaired 13 other windows like this over the course of 7 man days, the materials and labour for that was less than replacing that one window, also it would of disturbed the plaster inside which is lime plaster and usually results in re plastering the whole wall not just the reveal, I could take people back to resin repairs done over 20 year's ago and still good without any cracks
I used this stuff about 10 years ago. It’s amazing. Loved doing the fixed casements and sashes. The openers were a pain in the arse as we couldn’t get into the property’s. Nice job.
I worked as a warranty engineer for a boat company and was introduced to fettling and shaping timber sections with an angle grinder with varying grades of paper sanding discs,sounds brutal but with care and experience it’s astonishing the level of detail you can achieve,and how close tolerances you can work to,and it would save your man on resin costs where he was jigsawing his fillets👍ps looks amazing in the final shots👌pops what’s happened to the videos on the single storey extension build🤷♂️
Looks like that window was made so long ago, its probably slow-grown pine - more dense and stable - rather than the fast grown stuff called pine today; often Sitka Spruce, etc! I'd have used some similar age reclaimed pine for the repairs, just for keeping a similar density timber to the whole. Grand job anyway Dave.
Fascinating 👊 The multitool and the moderns resins/adhesives must have been a game changer in this line of work👍 Even more amazing to see an ELU belt sander In operation🤩 Great job
Hi Del so true about the modern resins and adhesives massive game changers, Dave has some great old kit we were talking about the old roofing square he has it’s a beauty, he mentioned the George Ellis book I had, I said he was an amazing craftsman he produced and amazing roofing square but took it to another level all the best Tony 👍
This video is going to literally save me thousands! Thank you for including so much detail. I have to tackle my conservatory soon. One question, what timber do you use and where do you buy it. I assume standard softwood batten from B&Q won't do?
GREAT VIDEO, It's the most complete and in depth video I've come across. I need your advise: After checking the products used in this video are no longer available. Can you suggest an alternative product that will work in the same manner? Thanks,
Many thanks for the excellent video! A couple of questions please. How did you cut the mitres to splice the vertical moulded sections? And, what is the best way to remove old hardened putty to replace it?
In the past have salvaged Victorian sash windows just for the glass, also if looking for a wavy effect on the glass and not the dead flat appearance of modern float glass specify toughened glass, it does a good job of mimicking the look of old glass.
Top job! Looks beautiful 👏🏼 I use timber packing as well when I’m doing repairs. They are going to last for many many years to come with a little regular maintenance. Only thing I do slightly differently is to prime/paint under drip edges before installing rather than afterward. Have you used a wood blade on an adjustable speed angle grinder? Very handy.
Nice work mate, if i didn't have work i would ask you for a job, im a furniture restorer but do property maintenance now but where did you get that pen from that you use looks very effective.
HI There. Once the old rotten wood is out & the resin has done it's work, given the end result will be painted (in my case) is there any material other than wood that can be used to make & shape the profiles up again? (not vast amounts) I don't have the facilities to cut wood profile pieces. Thanks
questions: 1. how did he get the paint off before starting the repair? 2. does he remove the opening casements to repair them? If also reglazing (eg with slim vacuum glazing) would he completely repair the window and then re-rout the glass rebate and install the new glazing?
Interesting to see someone else in window restoration as not many solely do this trade. Gonna be a lot of sanding of that resin work pal 😅😂 lovely job though, those windows will last another 100 years easy.. once they're painted up will look 👌🏽
Used to do loads of this type of window repairs with window care system, the amount of work and effort to do the repairs there’s just no money in it.....and there wasn’t thinks like multi tools
Water may not rot the resin BUT the resin will trap moisture above it and that will cause the wood to rot. Resin is just the latest modern 'quick fix' that ultimately leads to yet more rot.
I’m a decorator and get asked to price this stuff up all the time but wouldn’t have a clue how to price work to this extent, any advice on how to price mate. M2 or day rate.
Brilliant…. Daves Grills makes a cameo with the Build with A&E team👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼…. Should of got him to do the lunch break catering aswell😉 Just finished a huge house renovation with Dave over on my channel….. the guys attention to detail is superb👌🏼👌🏼 Dave would make a brilliant guest for the “Trades of the Round Table” 👍🏼
I remember when we first started using this and everybody slagged it off how we could cut and splice properly then they saw the finished product and went quiet 🤣. Do you also use the zinc phosphate primer? And just because I’m wondering, why don’t you piece back in in hardwood? I tend to find try last a lot longer. Neat job either way.
Looking at the amount of rot in that window along with the cost of scaffolding it's a wonder they didn't have a eplacement window made from a decent hardwood. When you scarf in new sections of softwood timber it has a different moisture content to the existing timber. Then before long both will expand/contract at different rates and the joints will open up ,water ingress and rot within 5-7yrs. As long as the client understands any repair is a short term measure then fine but repairs and not a long term solution.
The clue is in the title,the resin is called dry flex,it allows for different rates of expansion hence why I don't usually do a tight joint (a bit like bricks and mortar) I've been doing this for 20 years and can happily show you jobs I've done this way and have not needed to re repair
@@discodmax Cheers for the reply. But you would say that wouldn't you. People who do repairs like this only do so because they don't have the skills to replicate original detailed windows,doors etc. I've seen plenty of this type of bodge and as long as the client isn't fed a load of marketing wank about how it will last decades blah blah blah then fine. I've been making Joinery on historic buildings for over 35yrs so I know what will last and what won't and people viewing this can make up their own minds. Good luck.
I definitely wouldn't recommend using shellac/Zinsser B.I.N externally as it is far too brittle, their datasheet even specify to only use it for spot priming. Something like tikkurila otex is a lot more suitable.
Hi Doug Dave is an absolute legend and an amazing old school carpenter I was so pleased when he agreed to be filmed he has so much knowledge and great to share it all the best Tony 👍
Your mouldings are fabulous, but you have made so many incorrect statements about uni-fix. It does not harden or preserve rotten wood at all. You then proceeded to mix the uni-fix with a brush, which is an absolute no no. You must remove 5mm past any rotton timber. You also haven't worked to the correct min 5mm on each side of the splice. 2 pack filler is not okay and always cracks. Not to mention you used pine for splicing which is a soft wood and isn't suitable for repairing historic hardwood windows. You should be usind the same of better quality timber for all splicing of exterior timber. So much wrong info and processes being done here. However you are clearly a fantastic tradesman. However, you are definitely in need of some education directly from the manufacturer. I recommend official repaircare courses at an accredited training centre. Better to get the info before it becomes costly. This will elevate you to the next level and guarantee your work and profitability. Keep up the good work and keep it moving onwards and upwards.
This is the real deal when it comes to window restoration. Impressive video and really appreciate the in depth explanation. I've done lots of repair work but never with resin. Excellent stuff thank you
Nice to see someone doing a proper repair . Very impressive indeed.
Fantastic video, had me grinning all the way through with recognition of someone doing a proper job. 👍
I've been restoring windows for 30 years: got introduced to Repair Care in the 90s (Window Care then) by Bob Cherry who demonstrated it's use.
This is the first time I've seen someone real world demonstrating this method, which gives a long term solution to the sorts of problems found on wet rot affected exterior timbers. Sounds like you've done their course - the use of the term 'buttering up' may have given it away.🙂
The main issue with 2 pack fillers like ronseal or car body filler, is they're brittle (that's why they sand so easily!) and won't move with the timber - essentially it's inbuilt obsolescence - the vast majority of you tube videos dealing with these sorts of issues, use these sorts of 2 part fillers, demonstrating they don't understand the limitations of these materials and how timber flexes in different temperatures/humidities. The best thing to do when you come across their use is to remove them, in my experience you often find them placed over the top of ''hardened' wet rot, as a sort of packing. The only use for them is to guide you to these sorts of papered over issues.
Out of interest, do you know what paint system was used over these repairs?
Sometimes I look at jobs with extensive rot in bog standard off the shelf frames and either avoid the job or recommend total replacement. But if they are historic/original frames beautifully made they are worth restoring. Very satisfying knowing them Windows have been there a long time and you have now extended that further.
Brilliant skills on display. The key here is preparation, cut out all the rot and prime. Personally I replace all timber with timber. But a good mix of both methods here 👍
Thank you for making this video I just bought a 100-year-old house and every single window has rotted along the bottom and sides. They are beautiful windows and I didn't want to have to replace them so thank you for giving me another option 🙂
Ideally, take out the windows completely and replace rotten wood with new wood using no resin. That said, I appreciate this guy's honesty in explaining the high cost of the resin and not wanting to disturb the inside. Fair play. Most likely the customer didn't want to/couldn't afford to pay for a more lengthy full deconstruction and repair.
Great work. Just a note, stop repeating "its doesn't matter its rough" "its meant to look old" " it doesn't matter the joints aren't perfect"!!!! Mate, you're a great craftsman, be confident in what you're doing. All that matters, is the end product (which looks great) stop worrying about the negative comments, middle finger to them, just let your work shine 😊👍🏻❤
He knows he’s the dogs bollacks
Great video, full of useful detail. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Love the video.
Fantastic workmanship
I live in York and I've done so many rotten timber repairs over the past year mostly sliding sash window restoration. The repair care system is fantastic.
I've started using a spray bottle for the timber hardener. I use ronseal wood hardener though not the flex repair hardener.
Beautiful mouldings mate, lovely craftsmanship.
Repair care is brilliant stuff guys, used it a few times 👍
Very underated products
Best video I have seen on window repair! - Great job!
Absolutely cracking tradesmen Dave is 👍
Wow, great job, what a brilliant finish, thank you for the information.
Tremendous skill and great products, excellent film, thank you. 👍👍👍
As always these a&e vids show real trades at work doing jobs to the best standards.. nice to see proper trades still exist
looks great! and appreciate seeing all the work and skill that went into it!
Good stuff. Really interesting and a great job. That resin stuff looks well handy. 👍
Nice job, really well explained too. This is a product I didn’t know existed and I can see it would be much better than exterior wood filler which I have used in the past. 👍
You are a master of your craft. Thank you for the level of detailed information you included in this video. I appreciate you. Cheers!
Fabulous video, really practical tips and easy to follow approach. I was really concerned how to tackle a similar window with a simpler profile, now going to get the resin tomorrow and get going! Thanks.
Some posters are critical of this repair, but I'm sure there were good reasons for it (rather than a replacement) and this is a very helpful video for those of us fixing windows and doors without a budget or a workshop and access to materials for having period replicas pieces made.
What it doesn't show is I repaired 13 other windows like this over the course of 7 man days, the materials and labour for that was less than replacing that one window, also it would of disturbed the plaster inside which is lime plaster and usually results in re plastering the whole wall not just the reveal, I could take people back to resin repairs done over 20 year's ago and still good without any cracks
I used this stuff about 10 years ago. It’s amazing. Loved doing the fixed casements and sashes. The openers were a pain in the arse as we couldn’t get into the property’s. Nice job.
Nice one Dave 👏👏👍
Just need a decent decorator now 😎
Brilliant and thorough
Very good video. I appreciate your skills.
I worked as a warranty engineer for a boat company and was introduced to fettling and shaping timber sections with an angle grinder with varying grades of paper sanding discs,sounds brutal but with care and experience it’s astonishing the level of detail you can achieve,and how close tolerances you can work to,and it would save your man on resin costs where he was jigsawing his fillets👍ps looks amazing in the final shots👌pops what’s happened to the videos on the single storey extension build🤷♂️
Looks like that window was made so long ago, its probably slow-grown pine - more dense and stable - rather than the fast grown stuff called pine today; often Sitka Spruce, etc! I'd have used some similar age reclaimed pine for the repairs, just for keeping a similar density timber to the whole.
Grand job anyway Dave.
Fascinating 👊 The multitool and the moderns resins/adhesives must have been a game changer in this line of work👍 Even more amazing to see an ELU belt sander In operation🤩 Great job
Hi Del so true about the modern resins and adhesives massive game changers, Dave has some great old kit we were talking about the old roofing square he has it’s a beauty, he mentioned the George Ellis book I had, I said he was an amazing craftsman he produced and amazing roofing square but took it to another level all the best Tony 👍
Ah ElU, reminds me of the 1990's T.C. I'm starting to act and sound like an old fart. The Last of The Summer Wine kind of old fart!
@@Toyotaamazon80series Aren't we all bud😆
@@thetallcarpenter I sound more like Abe Simpson every Day!
@@Toyotaamazon80series Brilliant🤩
Great vid and great job done ✊😎✊
Wow what the most excellent job on this window!
Hey where's Pete...hey Pete👋🏻
Hi guys, Dave really new his job and you would never recognise that window now. 👏👏👏
This video is going to literally save me thousands! Thank you for including so much detail. I have to tackle my conservatory soon. One question, what timber do you use and where do you buy it. I assume standard softwood batten from B&Q won't do?
That's impressive work!
GREAT VIDEO, It's the most complete and in depth video I've come across.
I need your advise:
After checking the products used in this video are no longer available. Can you suggest an alternative product that will work in the same manner?
Thanks,
superb his voice is perfect as a tutor
Many thanks for the excellent video! A couple of questions please. How did you cut the mitres to splice the vertical moulded sections? And, what is the best way to remove old hardened putty to replace it?
Great video well explained!
Many thanks for the excellent video! Can I ask, what is the best way to remove old putty with minimal damage to the glass, please?
In the past have salvaged Victorian sash windows just for the glass, also if looking for a wavy effect on the glass and not the dead flat appearance of modern float glass specify toughened glass, it does a good job of mimicking the look of old glass.
Hi Peter can’t beat the old glass it looks beautiful, with its imperfections hand made all the best Tony 👍
Great video. I have some widows to repair. Question. Do I need both the wood preservative and the “Repair Care DRY FIX UNI”?
thanks for the video - top work!
Top notch finish. Superb effort
Top job! Looks beautiful 👏🏼 I use timber packing as well when I’m doing repairs. They are going to last for many many years to come with a little regular maintenance.
Only thing I do slightly differently is to prime/paint under drip edges before installing rather than afterward.
Have you used a wood blade on an adjustable speed angle grinder? Very handy.
This was a cool vid, really appreciate the in depth process on it
Hi Paul much appreciated all the best Tony 👍
It’s really nice to see some who gives a dam…… someone who’s knows his materials and process…… well done mate
Useful. Thanks.
Skilled work
Nice work mate, if i didn't have work i would ask you for a job, im a furniture restorer but do property maintenance now but where did you get that pen from that you use looks very effective.
HI There. Once the old rotten wood is out & the resin has done it's work, given the end result will be painted (in my case) is there any material other than wood that can be used to make & shape the profiles up again? (not vast amounts) I don't have the facilities to cut wood profile pieces. Thanks
In the process of buying a grade 2 listed and i need you doing my windows as they are shot to pieces!
questions: 1. how did he get the paint off before starting the repair? 2. does he remove the opening casements to repair them? If also reglazing (eg with slim vacuum glazing) would he completely repair the window and then re-rout the glass rebate and install the new glazing?
Interesting to see someone else in window restoration as not many solely do this trade. Gonna be a lot of sanding of that resin work pal 😅😂 lovely job though, those windows will last another 100 years easy.. once they're painted up will look 👌🏽
Unfinished it looked like a patchwork, finished it looked great, you would never have know it was the same window if you didn't see the video.++
How do I go about getting into this sort of work??
Used to do loads of this type of window repairs with window care system, the amount of work and effort to do the repairs there’s just no money in it.....and there wasn’t thinks like multi tools
Hi Fire Blaster so true people don’t want to pay the right money all the time considering how much effort goes in all the best Tony 👍
Do you cover Brighton area please ? Have a rotten piece of sash window where the window lock sits.
You can get a multi tool sanding finger,I find them great for corners, & narrow difficult
areas such as window frames
Hi Stuart I need to check that out all the best Tony 👍
What sort of wood are you using for the repair, is it ok to use a soft wood?
Quality work!
Hi Jake much appreciated all the best Tony 👍
I like how he repaired the window..
If cost is anything to go by, that Repaircare stuff must be good!
What sort of timber used?
I thought you'd hired the Samurai Carpenter looking at the thumbnail.
first class !
Water may not rot the resin BUT the resin will trap moisture above it and that will cause the wood to rot. Resin is just the latest modern 'quick fix' that ultimately leads to yet more rot.
Would Gripfill work?
I’m a decorator and get asked to price this stuff up all the time but wouldn’t have a clue how to price work to this extent, any advice on how to price mate. M2 or day rate.
Day rate £240.00 day to £350.00 depending on job and distance of project
@@BuildWithAE thanks mate
Whats the wax stuff called?
Unreal video
Can you come and do my house next?
Do you call out to Sydney Australia?
Brilliant…. Daves Grills makes a cameo with the Build with A&E team👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼…. Should of got him to do the lunch break catering aswell😉
Just finished a huge house renovation with Dave over on my channel….. the guys attention to detail is superb👌🏼👌🏼
Dave would make a brilliant guest for the “Trades of the Round Table” 👍🏼
Hi Mark so true, I think that’s a great shout all the best Tony 👍
I remember when we first started using this and everybody slagged it off how we could cut and splice properly then they saw the finished product and went quiet 🤣. Do you also use the zinc phosphate primer? And just because I’m wondering, why don’t you piece back in in hardwood? I tend to find try last a lot longer. Neat job either way.
What's the point of brushing preservative on the timber and then cutting, planning and sanding it to fit without re treating it?
Looking at the amount of rot in that window along with the cost of scaffolding it's a wonder they didn't have a eplacement window made from a decent hardwood. When you scarf in new sections of softwood timber it has a different moisture content to the existing timber. Then before long both will expand/contract at different rates and the joints will open up ,water ingress and rot within 5-7yrs. As long as the client understands any repair is a short term measure then fine but repairs and not a long term solution.
The clue is in the title,the resin is called dry flex,it allows for different rates of expansion hence why I don't usually do a tight joint (a bit like bricks and mortar) I've been doing this for 20 years and can happily show you jobs I've done this way and have not needed to re repair
@@discodmax Cheers for the reply. But you would say that wouldn't you. People who do repairs like this only do so because they don't have the skills to replicate original detailed windows,doors etc. I've seen plenty of this type of bodge and as long as the client isn't fed a load of marketing wank about how it will last decades blah blah blah then fine. I've been making Joinery on historic buildings for over 35yrs so I know what will last and what won't and people viewing this can make up their own minds. Good luck.
A dam good coat of shelac/ zinzer bin would also help the window last..Well done Cracking repair !
I definitely wouldn't recommend using shellac/Zinsser B.I.N externally as it is far too brittle, their datasheet even specify to only use it for spot priming. Something like tikkurila otex is a lot more suitable.
@@marcuschambers62 your right good job your on the ball 👍 keep up the good work. Cheers M
How do we reach Dave ?
Hi Ant will forward details please send your mobile over all the best Tony 👍
Fancy a job repairing our front door frame? Near Heathrow.
That filler is sooo expensive!!
I charge less for a window than the cost of those 3 tubes.
I use epoxy resin and car body filler to good effect
I have done a tiny bit of this type of repair. As all good tradey’s he makes it look easy…..
It is not
Hi Doug Dave is an absolute legend and an amazing old school carpenter I was so pleased when he agreed to be filmed he has so much knowledge and great to share it all the best Tony 👍
I second that Doug👊👊
What about when the whole window frame is rotten? :)
Your gut will tell you when it’s too far gone, ask your gut
Why are you using softwood for the repairs instead of a hardwood
Oi oiiiii
Hi Guy’s hope you are all well, love the merchandise not to shabby, have a awesome weekend all the best Tony 👍
Frotch on the tools
£33+ per tube.
I think its better to just take the entire window out and put a vinyl retrofit on. Will last longer too
Brilliant, now those poorly insulated, single glazed windows are going to provide draughty, damp conditions and high heating bills for many more years
Your mouldings are fabulous, but you have made so many incorrect statements about uni-fix. It does not harden or preserve rotten wood at all.
You then proceeded to mix the uni-fix with a brush, which is an absolute no no. You must remove 5mm past any rotton timber.
You also haven't worked to the correct min 5mm on each side of the splice.
2 pack filler is not okay and always cracks.
Not to mention you used pine for splicing which is a soft wood and isn't suitable for repairing historic hardwood windows. You should be usind the same of better quality timber for all splicing of exterior timber.
So much wrong info and processes being done here.
However you are clearly a fantastic tradesman. However, you are definitely in need of some education directly from the manufacturer.
I recommend official repaircare courses at an accredited training centre.
Better to get the info before it becomes costly.
This will elevate you to the next level and guarantee your work and profitability.
Keep up the good work and keep it moving onwards and upwards.
Putty. Cheaper and better.