Brilliant as always lads, I’ve got my A and E fix for the week now! I like how you went about this, its a really smart way of getting the concrete block set in place… and to think this will carry a lot of the weight of the extension when it starts being built up. Cheers, Paul 👍
Great video, full of details and intricacies, thanks for posting. It must be very hard to plan ahead all the details in your industry. I often see you digging for one thing then filling it and some time later having to dig again for something else. Our streets are like that! As soon as they redo the tarmac, one of utility companies comes and digs it up, of course they don't compact and resurface to the same standard and land settlement and potholes follow soon....
Fantastic work and video as always! Question - are you allowed to run the rainwater from light wells into the same sewer with the other waste, or are you obliged to run a separate pipe to a soak-away in the back yard? Cheers!
In this instance, we have combination drainage (rain and foul water systems) so it's is perfectly fine to do so. A soakaway may have been an option, but we were unable to install one on this property due to the condition of the ground. Hope this helps. All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Other than that "Mr Burns" for in the middle of the wall 🤣 what do you do for power and water on site? Generators and a pump truck or something else? Thanks
Great stuff as always. I'm a bit puzzled by the big concrete block though - why is that needed, why can't you build straight up off a ground-level footing?
why not build the single skin wall on the footing (you’ve put in anyway) in dense block work, then use steel spreader plates to your 2 steels above (for the cavity wall above). you can then transfer some of the weight to the footing, and probably use smaller steels? maybe run it past the structural engineer?
Check out previous episodes in the series below!
Episode 01 - th-cam.com/video/_hObUWogkbI/w-d-xo.html
Episode 02 - th-cam.com/video/aSymhwJolDo/w-d-xo.html
Episode 03 - th-cam.com/video/i0jVhTFi7sI/w-d-xo.html
Episode 04 - th-cam.com/video/c-QhsmgPojQ/w-d-xo.html
Episode 05 - th-cam.com/video/wNPHuDqegQ4/w-d-xo.html
Episode 06 - th-cam.com/video/QDqx_6uKVzQ/w-d-xo.html
Episode 07 - th-cam.com/video/iYjFxQ5MQAs/w-d-xo.html
Episode 08 - th-cam.com/video/JNnNlgi69ZA/w-d-xo.html
Episode 09 - th-cam.com/video/JiQvZlOUlKY/w-d-xo.html
Episode 10 - th-cam.com/video/Bl3FdEthORQ/w-d-xo.html
Episode 11 - th-cam.com/video/yxEgn7Yza88/w-d-xo.html
Brilliant as always lads, I’ve got my A and E fix for the week now! I like how you went about this, its a really smart way of getting the concrete block set in place… and to think this will carry a lot of the weight of the extension when it starts being built up. Cheers, Paul 👍
Great video, full of details and intricacies, thanks for posting. It must be very hard to plan ahead all the details in your industry. I often see you digging for one thing then filling it and some time later having to dig again for something else.
Our streets are like that! As soon as they redo the tarmac, one of utility companies comes and digs it up, of course they don't compact and resurface to the same standard and land settlement and potholes follow soon....
Fantastic video John. always luv your work guys, keep them coming. well hooked to the series and this journey now.
Nice job, so much work involved in that type of renovation work 😅💪
Tony InLosAngeles
It keeps evolving for the better
Thanks Tony, we are really pleased with how it's coming along! 😃
When you strut a shutter try to put them in at 45 degrees or less. The steeper the angle the more the shutter wants to lift especially on a one sider.
That's a great tip. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Fantastic work and video as always! Question - are you allowed to run the rainwater from light wells into the same sewer with the other waste, or are you obliged to run a separate pipe to a soak-away in the back yard? Cheers!
In this instance, we have combination drainage (rain and foul water systems) so it's is perfectly fine to do so. A soakaway may have been an option, but we were unable to install one on this property due to the condition of the ground.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
@ thank you for the reply. Cheers John!
Other than that "Mr Burns" for in the middle of the wall 🤣 what do you do for power and water on site?
Generators and a pump truck or something else?
Thanks
Enjoying this series. Genuine question, would that newly poured foundation potentially breach next doors damp proof course?
The new foundation is below the damp course, so there's no chance of a breach.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Great stuff as always. I'm a bit puzzled by the big concrete block though - why is that needed, why can't you build straight up off a ground-level footing?
It helped us to stay as close to the boundary as possible and maximise the available footprint of the rooms.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Longer video's less jibber jabberin 🤭🤫🤐😏💪💪
🤐🤐🤐
why not build the single skin wall on the footing (you’ve put in anyway) in dense block work, then use steel spreader plates to your 2 steels above (for the cavity wall above). you can then transfer some of the weight to the footing, and probably use smaller steels? maybe run it past the structural engineer?
Bit click baity, one ton of concrete is not huge, about a cubic meter! !