I really enjoyed this video and it was not too long at all. I find videos like these very therapeutic for some reason and look forward to enjoying many more of your videos. Thank you!
The amount of wood you make within 28 minutes (while explaining and show us how to do it is amazing) the amount of wood you could make 2x4 4x4 2x6 2x10 would save you thousands upon thousands with the price of wood now a days! That was amazing 👏 thanks for all the info !
LT40 owner here since 1991......over a million board feet sawed. Here are some observations that will help you. First off, I'm glad I don't own THAT model. Mine was the lower end at the time, being non hydraulic (which you really DON'T need by the way unless you saw a lot out on the road), but it does have the 12v electric drive, (+ head up/down and blade guide in/out) meaning I don't have to push it down the log. Not that it is that hard to push it down the log, but the time you spend pushing where I just put it in GO, is time you can spend removing slabs or lumber while the saw saws, way increasing production on a one man show. You'll learn after a while you don't need to clamp it. Only time I use my clamp is IF the log wants to roll away from the dogs. Once I get two 90 degree faces, I never clamp again.....log ain't going anywhere.....the blade keeps it tight to the little nubs. You're working too hard at this. And WM screwed up with that dog design.....with the wheels at the top, the log doesn't fit flush to the dog like on the other mills....mine I don't need a square, the dog is dead 90 to the bed. Any crack of daylight between the log face and the dog means the log is out of square to the bed rail. I'd be tempted to remove the wheels and grind an angle on the top of the dogs to make it like the older style.....save that work squaring. Another thing you're not in the habit of doing.....raise the blade slightly before you back the head up.....LOT of times a cant will arch either the ends up or the middle up as you saw and relieve the stress in the log (yellow poplar is THE worst about this)......you don't raise the blade, it will catch the end of the cant and strip it off the wheels. You should also saw some 6x6 cants out, and build yourself a log deck on the side you load from.....not only can you load a bunch of logs on it, saving time on/off the tractor, but you can put your boards to edge on it as well, rather than throw them off to the side to have to bend over and pick up again later. When you get into sawing larger stuff, like 2x10 or 2x12s, you back will thank you. Last, you need an SSQA adapter (ATI in New Holland Pa makes them for ANY tractor) on your tractor so you can quickly switch from bucket to forks....then buy a set of REAL forks, not those fool clamp on things. Those are not only award to use compared to real forks, they will eventually bend your bucket when you put enough pressure on them, and the load you can pick up is WAY reduced due to how far out in front of the bucket they sit. They might be OK for the person that rarely uses forks, but if you have a sawmill, your gonna USE forks.....get a good set. All this is stuff you'll figure out anyway, maybe this just gives you a heads up.
Just ran across you Video. It was not too long. Very well done. Thanks. I’m getting ready to buy my second wood miser. Built one log cabin , now getting ready to build another. .
I don't know why I watch these as I don't have any trees within cooee that could be cut down. But I really enjoyed this one and agree with Mark below they are very satisfying for some reason. Good camera work by your helper and am going to subscribe. Thank you so much.
I like how much you explain. I have just retired, and looking for a property where I can set up a craftsman wood shop, complete with saw mill. Inspired, thanks.
As a Woodmizer LT40 owner I would like to suggest you start sawing from the small end. You can find the cant size by multiplying the diameter under bark of the small end by point 700. Do this before you start cutting.
That works on perfectly straight logs with slight taper... anything different and I’d still saw from the large end. It’s easier on the blade to go into the log ‘Square on’ instead of coming in at an angle on the side to remove the taper slabs. Plus if you have more than slight taper you can squeeze out some shorter 1” lumber as you’re squaring up the cant, vs taking off thick slabs that just get burned or chipped. If he had started out immediately squaring the cant to final size that would have resulted in lost lumber. Maybe not a big deal on pine, but not so with hardwood. Hell even poplar- they sell 5’ shelf boards for $10 at homeless despot.
One suggestion...think about a grapel on the front end loader... I thought for a second I was gonna see you wearing the log when you lifted the bucket while driving. The guy I saw have this happen to him didnt live. Been thinking about one of these mills. Good job displaying how it functions
I would make 28" or so vertical extensions on your forks or bucket with 20" or so forward projecting extension's , to prevent accidental log rolling down your tractor loader, visiting you in the drivers seat, that would ruin your day ! Nice video on the sawmill !
Nice video, and not to long, informative good job, backed and watched one more time, you should move the water valve over by the engine, and make a little tool box to keep you locking knobs in by the lockers, wish I had one of these so much wood to cut up.👍👍👍👍
Couple suggestions you can take or leave; spend a bit of time to look at your log, rather than make two skim cuts, take more on first pass, your blades last longer and for time cutting you get more usable wood, look at the pith(center of log) vs comparing the diameters to decide if you are going to level one end-it makes a difference in wood grain and strength of wood you produce, once you roll your cant for the next cut you can use the position of your clamp to influence the perpendicularity of your cant instead of clamping it tight then fighting that pressure with your cant hook for slight tweeks, try using your handle to travel vs pushing, it can be just as fast but more importantly it is more consistent, you can get away with pushing soft woods but you'll notice a quality of cut issue on hardwoods pushing it through, lastly, slow down, think fast, move slower, you'll end up being more efficient, you'll re adjust less, and you'll enjoy more. Have fun!
Great video, a live video in real time, nice. One thing I've learned- when trying to keep your cant square to the bunks/blade, position your first clamp a little loose, as in, don't drive it home yet. Then you can lift or lower the cant to make it square with your other clamp. Just put it a little above the stop or below the stop to make it square. then tighten up the first clamp. No peavy required! I hope that makes sense... lol God Bless you too!
great video, I am looking at one for the first time by my self. Cost of a 2x4 here in Ak went from a 2.50 to like 9 bucks and it is a 200 mile drive to go get it. That being said I do have tons of experience of a 100 hp mill in Denver and one up in Frazer Colo that the company I worked for had. also had some twin blade turners too. But now just want a little guy. :) My place has thousands of trees so long as the lumber prices stay high I could have it pay for its self.
Hey, i saw you were standing up to pick the log up. Heres a tip for you. The very top of your bucket is flat and parallel with the bottom of your bucket. So whatever the top of the bucket is doing the bottom is too. Hope it helps out.
This is why you will always see commercial sawyers only rotate 90 degrees after opening the log with their first cut. Open the log, then roll it in so the flat you just created lies against the stops and it makes it very fast to end up with a perfectly square cant so you can get on to cutting boards more quickly.
Hearing protection is a must with these. Also you need a proper squirt bottle for this operation. I think its Zep that makes a fairly descent one available it Lowes or Home Depot.
Thanks for the info. I am really wanting a basic, functional mill. I learned a bit. I think I will have one under an insulated roof. Partly to keep the mill nice, and allow me to work in nasty weather. I think I would extend the saw dust chute enough, so I would not have in the walk area, and I would want the walkway smooth. Perhaps a fan set up , to blow saw dust away from me. Red cedar can be a bit hard on the lungs.
I am not an expert, but I have worked a small mill. I think one of the things I would do, is have a couple yard sticks, clear lacquered. And give the tape measure a break. I hear that thing slamming home, and wonder it is not broken. I am also thinking it might be nice to have a 24 ft section of mobile home frame, with tandem axles, for smoother ride on the road. I would be taking a good look at that power head and think up a cover for it. I like to protect nice things.
Hello my new friend I’m a Homestead channel from Louisiana looking to by the same Mill . I ran my dads 40 hyd wood Mizer For Years Great Saw mill thanks for sharing.
I cut these at 2", this is rough cut lumber, I do not plane them either, I use them as is. Dimensional lumber, like you get at Lowes, would be cut to 1 1/2. I have started to make some like that lately to save weight in a few projects.
How hard is it to find an acreage with wood/trees already established. Just curious, don't tell the town, but what state are you in and I assume that is oak, if different what wood? What would a homestead be in dollars now-a-day?
thank you, it was great to see it start to finish! when you throw the lever on the left side of the carriage just before you cut, is that a manual clutch? thanks!
I usually do the 2" x 6", not dimensional lumber like sold in the box stores. However I will be doing some of that soon to save weight in an upcoming project.
I am curious about building with green lumber. I wouldn't foresee any problem with sheds, but for those who make dimensional lumber for a home I suspect it would be tricky. Anyone have experience airdrying lumber and keeping it straight? No one wants to build a wall with the water skis you see in the Lowes 2x4 stack.
All the lumber I have let dry has remained straight if it was straight when I stickered and stacked it. I have not built anything like a house, and probably never will.
Curious why u don’t cut the 2x6’s the size of store bought (1-1/2” thick), seems like u might get an extra board or two from a log. I’m just trying to learn about all this so it’s not a bash. Nice video
Rough cut is generally true to size, dementional lumber is what the store bought stuff is called. In a newer video I did I made some 2x4s the size of the stuff in the stores for a project I am doing that I want to save weight on.
I don't know if your being so through because of a video or because its still new to you. I trust the measure on the saw and see how much wood is left and go from there. I try for one clear side of wain and divots then sastrength
Could you help me out and tell me the diameter of the clutch pully, driven pully, and band wheels? And if you know the rpm of the motor that would help, I'm trying to calculator the speed of the blade. Thanks!!
This is for anyone, when he says it's 6" X 10" does that mean 6 inches plus kerf? Or is it assumed that the kerf is gonna come out of the 2" per board? Thanks! Also, at 28:08-ish, he cranks the head up and the engine seems about to stall but it recovers - any idea why? I didn't see him touch throttle. Did I miss it? Thanks!
I have two scales on mine (not familiar with the scale on this model in the video). I have an inch scale and a 'quarter' scale.....4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4....the quarter scale allows for kerf AND you end up with 1/8 over whatever.....4/4 is 1 1/8" lumber. This was because most old circle mills were notoriously inaccurate.....furniture/flooring factories required 4/4 lumber so they could actually dry and plane to to 3/4 finish lumber. The inch scale is just that.....each inch drops the head exactly one inch. So your lumber loses 1/16 ish for the blade kerf, and about that much again as it dries.....you end up with a dry board right around 7/8" thick. If you need 3/4" finished lumber, sometimes this works, but the slightest variation in sawing and it doesn't. I saw my hardwood lumber on the quarter scale so I'm dang sure of finishing it to 3/4". My softwood lumber, I use the inch scale, because most of it isn't going for planed stuff needing to be 3/4, I use it in the rough stage, or just skip plane at most (knock it all down to the same thickness.....like 13/16".
Thanks for the awesome, detailed, demonstration of a Woodmizer mill. Excellent work by the camera woman. There is no SMALL amount of work involved to get some 2x6 lumber, is there?
Okay, I got questions! Lol Rolling the log on that fast really shook the frame. Will that not eventually lead to wracking it? When you first fire up to cut, I’ve always been told to let the blade run for a minute to warm it up and balance out the tension. Yes? No? You cleaned the bark for the first cut, but not the second cut? (Oversight?) How did you get five 2” cuts from a 10” cant? Was it actually 10 1/2” to start? Otherwise the bottom board would only be 6/4. When you were sawing down to 6” on the 4th side, you could have taken a 2” slab and gotten a 6th 2x6 plus a 2x4, no? Or was the 1” worth more to you? Very nice video, good camera work and explanation of everything! Wish I had pine logs that nice to play with! And of course the tractor... ha!
Thanks for watching. I haven't heard about letting the blade warm up. As far as 2 inch cuts, I move the blade down two inches eqch cut,, so yes, one of the boards will be a little thinner.
I really enjoyed this video and it was not too long at all. I find videos like these very therapeutic for some reason and look forward to enjoying many more of your videos. Thank you!
The amount of wood you make within 28 minutes (while explaining and show us how to do it is amazing) the amount of wood you could make 2x4 4x4 2x6 2x10 would save you thousands upon thousands with the price of wood now a days! That was amazing 👏 thanks for all the info !
Great demo. I ordered my Saw mill you’ve been a great help when I cut my first log.
Great demo. Lots of food for thought. Thanks for the time and effort, you guys.
LT40 owner here since 1991......over a million board feet sawed. Here are some observations that will help you.
First off, I'm glad I don't own THAT model. Mine was the lower end at the time, being non hydraulic (which you really DON'T need by the way unless you saw a lot out on the road), but it does have the 12v electric drive, (+ head up/down and blade guide in/out) meaning I don't have to push it down the log. Not that it is that hard to push it down the log, but the time you spend pushing where I just put it in GO, is time you can spend removing slabs or lumber while the saw saws, way increasing production on a one man show.
You'll learn after a while you don't need to clamp it. Only time I use my clamp is IF the log wants to roll away from the dogs. Once I get two 90 degree faces, I never clamp again.....log ain't going anywhere.....the blade keeps it tight to the little nubs. You're working too hard at this.
And WM screwed up with that dog design.....with the wheels at the top, the log doesn't fit flush to the dog like on the other mills....mine I don't need a square, the dog is dead 90 to the bed. Any crack of daylight between the log face and the dog means the log is out of square to the bed rail. I'd be tempted to remove the wheels and grind an angle on the top of the dogs to make it like the older style.....save that work squaring.
Another thing you're not in the habit of doing.....raise the blade slightly before you back the head up.....LOT of times a cant will arch either the ends up or the middle up as you saw and relieve the stress in the log (yellow poplar is THE worst about this)......you don't raise the blade, it will catch the end of the cant and strip it off the wheels.
You should also saw some 6x6 cants out, and build yourself a log deck on the side you load from.....not only can you load a bunch of logs on it, saving time on/off the tractor, but you can put your boards to edge on it as well, rather than throw them off to the side to have to bend over and pick up again later. When you get into sawing larger stuff, like 2x10 or 2x12s, you back will thank you.
Last, you need an SSQA adapter (ATI in New Holland Pa makes them for ANY tractor) on your tractor so you can quickly switch from bucket to forks....then buy a set of REAL forks, not those fool clamp on things. Those are not only award to use compared to real forks, they will eventually bend your bucket when you put enough pressure on them, and the load you can pick up is WAY reduced due to how far out in front of the bucket they sit. They might be OK for the person that rarely uses forks, but if you have a sawmill, your gonna USE forks.....get a good set.
All this is stuff you'll figure out anyway, maybe this just gives you a heads up.
And slow down a little while in the cut
It’s his first time he didn’t know, but that’s how they do it up there in the mountain 😂😂😂😂😂
Just ran across you Video.
It was not too long. Very well done. Thanks.
I’m getting ready to buy my second wood miser. Built one log cabin , now getting ready to build another. .
Tank you for the long video.. everybody stops right when they just take the bark off nice to see the whole process..
I don't know why I watch these as I don't have any trees within cooee that could be cut down. But I really enjoyed this one and agree with Mark below they are very satisfying for some reason. Good camera work by your helper and am going to subscribe. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching, I plan on making some more sawmill videos in the near future!
It's so satisfying to watch this thing work. I can hardly wait to get one, Good Lord willing.
Wonderful job, excellent job, thanks for sharing
I like how much you explain. I have just retired, and looking for a property where I can set up a craftsman wood shop, complete with saw mill.
Inspired, thanks.
Want to come to Alaska and run mine? I'm looking for a guy!
@@thorpster1000 I am mid way through a solo full house renovation, ask me in 8 months. I may go for a tropical beach next, or take you up....
Those are some neat units. Thanks for the video.
From Homer, Alaska; I'm impressed and ready for a new hobby!
Great real-time informative video. Thank you
As a Woodmizer LT40 owner I would like to suggest you start sawing from the small end. You can find the cant size by multiplying the diameter under bark of the small end by point 700. Do this before you start cutting.
Thanks for the advice! I am still kind of new at this.
That works on perfectly straight logs with slight taper... anything different and I’d still saw from the large end. It’s easier on the blade to go into the log ‘Square on’ instead of coming in at an angle on the side to remove the taper slabs. Plus if you have more than slight taper you can squeeze out some shorter 1” lumber as you’re squaring up the cant, vs taking off thick slabs that just get burned or chipped. If he had started out immediately squaring the cant to final size that would have resulted in lost lumber. Maybe not a big deal on pine, but not so with hardwood. Hell even poplar- they sell 5’ shelf boards for $10 at homeless despot.
Always start at the bell.
@@1wide9111 That’s what I’ve heard also.
@@brucea550 one guy said pretty much the same as you but he said figure out what you want on the small end.
Great demo. Great job
Great tutorial. Just like I was there learning how to do it. Thanks!
First time I've seen you guys.I'll be watching more.good job.michigan.
Excellent video my friend!
One suggestion...think about a grapel on the front end loader... I thought for a second I was gonna see you wearing the log when you lifted the bucket while driving. The guy I saw have this happen to him didnt live.
Been thinking about one of these mills. Good job displaying how it functions
I have a grapple on order, just installed the third function valve on the tractor. Thanks for watching!
The cart you made me is absolutely beautiful The wood grain after sanding is gorgeous.
Nbv
Nbv
Inspirational thanks great video
Cool! The good Lord did us a big favor providing trees.
And saw-mills, lol
I love watching these.
Well done, thanks for the tour.
I would make 28" or so vertical extensions on your forks or bucket with 20" or so forward projecting extension's , to prevent accidental log rolling down your tractor loader, visiting you in the drivers seat, that would ruin your day ! Nice video on the sawmill !
Awesome video and commentary, thank you Sir.
Nice video, and not to long, informative good job, backed and watched one more time, you should move the water valve over by the engine, and make a little tool box to keep you locking knobs in by the lockers, wish I had one of these so much wood to cut up.👍👍👍👍
Couple suggestions you can take or leave; spend a bit of time to look at your log, rather than make two skim cuts, take more on first pass, your blades last longer and for time cutting you get more usable wood, look at the pith(center of log) vs comparing the diameters to decide if you are going to level one end-it makes a difference in wood grain and strength of wood you produce, once you roll your cant for the next cut you can use the position of your clamp to influence the perpendicularity of your cant instead of clamping it tight then fighting that pressure with your cant hook for slight tweeks, try using your handle to travel vs pushing, it can be just as fast but more importantly it is more consistent, you can get away with pushing soft woods but you'll notice a quality of cut issue on hardwoods pushing it through, lastly, slow down, think fast, move slower, you'll end up being more efficient, you'll re adjust less, and you'll enjoy more. Have fun!
I agree over working your self each cut, so slight easier my input the cost of wood too high to not care.
Seems to be many unnecessary cuts, more use and stress wear on the blade. Save time and effort . Nice piece of equipment,..
Great video, a live video in real time, nice. One thing I've learned- when trying to keep your cant square to the bunks/blade, position your first clamp a little loose, as in, don't drive it home yet. Then you can lift or lower the cant to make it square with your other clamp. Just put it a little above the stop or below the stop to make it square. then tighten up the first clamp. No peavy required! I hope that makes sense... lol God Bless you too!
Loved the video. Thanks for sharing
That thing cuts like butter!
Very good video in real time. That’s getting ur done!
Just a great Job on saw mill . . .video . . .must be great to cut all your custom cut wood on site.. livin the dream
Hey don't feel bad about putting a long video out that was far more informative than the most ads
When put blade on or off, take saw head to end of track. Don't have to step in and out of track.
great video, I am looking at one for the first time by my self. Cost of a 2x4 here in Ak went from a 2.50 to like 9 bucks and it is a 200 mile drive to go get it. That being said I do have tons of experience of a 100 hp mill in Denver and one up in Frazer Colo that the company I worked for had. also had some twin blade turners too. But now just want a little guy. :) My place has thousands of trees so long as the lumber prices stay high I could have it pay for its self.
Oh, that sawmill!!! Love it!
Hey, i saw you were standing up to pick the log up. Heres a tip for you. The very top of your bucket is flat and parallel with the bottom of your bucket. So whatever the top of the bucket is doing the bottom is too. Hope it helps out.
I always wondered about how square they come out. Yours is the first video Ive seen where you actually measure the angle as you make the cant.
I was taught that from an old timer, even older than me! I don't bother when doing 1 x boards, but for 2 x 's and bigger, I always check for square.
This is why you will always see commercial sawyers only rotate 90 degrees after opening the log with their first cut. Open the log, then roll it in so the flat you just created lies against the stops and it makes it very fast to end up with a perfectly square cant so you can get on to cutting boards more quickly.
Good advice , thanks, I'm learning.
I like the video well informative keep inspiring
Hearing protection is a must with these. Also you need a proper squirt bottle for this operation. I think its Zep that makes a fairly descent one available it Lowes or Home Depot.
Ill be 100% honest....I have no idea why im watching this but Im enjoying it lol
Good informative video. Thank you!
Nice work!
For traction/footing I'd prefer the sawdust discharge on the off-side, I think.
Great video, thanks!
I was wrong, a 2X4 is actually smaller. It measures 11/2 by 3 1/2 inches. They shaved another 1/8 of an inch since I was young.
All the best, Edgar
That's dimensional lumber. Rough cut is the actual size, 2x4.
Thanks for the info. I am really wanting a basic, functional mill. I learned a bit. I think I will have one under an insulated roof. Partly to keep the mill nice, and allow me to work in nasty weather. I think I would extend the saw dust chute enough, so I would not have in the walk area, and I would want the walkway smooth. Perhaps a fan set up , to blow saw dust away from me. Red cedar can be a bit hard on the lungs.
Excellent info and video!
I like longer videos
Great video!! Now that you have had your woodmizer for 4 years or so.. any additional advice feedback on mill? Maybe an update video😉
Hey Tony. Great videos you put out. My LT15 is finally here in Maine. Think I saw you on forestry forum? You’re in NH too?
You probably did see m e there. I am in southern NH.
I am not an expert, but I have worked a small mill. I think one of the things I would do, is have a couple yard sticks, clear lacquered. And give the tape measure a break. I hear that thing slamming home, and wonder it is not broken. I am also thinking it might be nice to have a 24 ft section of mobile home frame, with tandem axles, for smoother ride on the road. I would be taking a good look at that power head and think up a cover for it. I like to protect nice things.
Park your tractor on side that you are working, place lumber onto forks to transport, better than flopping it on ground
Awesome video and explanations. I am Just a newbie in learning.
Hello my new friend I’m a Homestead channel from Louisiana looking to by the same Mill . I ran my dads 40 hyd wood Mizer For Years Great Saw mill thanks for sharing.
Nice looking mill. I think I would may with the wide model.
surprised they dont have the stop at the other end so you dont have to walk around the tongue..
Thanks for the great video.
Great video good information Thanks for sharing
Just thought I'd let you know the camera person should be shooting from the side. Not looking at the back side of the person cut the wood?
Awesome video.Thanx
You cut those at 2" right?? I thought you would have cut them at 1 1/2 . No? Or do you plane them after?
I cut these at 2", this is rough cut lumber, I do not plane them either, I use them as is. Dimensional lumber, like you get at Lowes, would be cut to 1 1/2. I have started to make some like that lately to save weight in a few projects.
you could can got 2 more boards if you cut them 1.5" instead of 2"...do they shrink that much during drying?
Very informative thank you
Great video. Have you ever used a green line laser module as an alignment tool ?
I want a woodmizer and 50 acres to work
How hard is it to find an acreage with wood/trees already established. Just curious, don't tell the town, but what state are you in and I assume that is oak, if different what wood? What would a homestead be in dollars now-a-day?
how is single rail system working? that rolling 90 degrees is painfull...
Great Video
How long does it take for the fun factor to wear off and turn into real work???
You could use a dry grease to lube , less dust should stick to it VS wet or tacky lube.
Professionnel
Hey do you guys have used LT 15 that you are selling?
It's nice making your own lumber isnt it. I know it does for me .I barely could hear you talking but it was bearable.
thank you, it was great to see it start to finish! when you throw the lever on the left side of the carriage just before you cut, is that a manual clutch? thanks!
Parabéns, Belo trabalho virando a tora para tirar pranchas limpas . Rio de Janeiro
Love the mill, do you cut your lumber a full 2”x 6” or like they do at the yards that 1-3/4”x 5-1/2” ?
I usually do the 2" x 6", not dimensional lumber like sold in the box stores. However I will be doing some of that soon to save weight in an upcoming project.
Preciosa maquinita
11:15 I love it when forestors become phylosophical. :-)
Enjoyed your video, when being filmed try to remember that when you look away from the camera your voice can barely be heard.
Douche Bag is what u r...
@@mattcouch9178 Sounded like a constructive criticism to me, nothing wrong with that unless you wear your feelings on your sleeve.
I am curious about building with green lumber. I wouldn't foresee any problem with sheds, but for those who make dimensional lumber for a home I suspect it would be tricky. Anyone have experience airdrying lumber and keeping it straight? No one wants to build a wall with the water skis you see in the Lowes 2x4 stack.
All the lumber I have let dry has remained straight if it was straight when I stickered and stacked it. I have not built anything like a house, and probably never will.
Curious why u don’t cut the 2x6’s the size of store bought (1-1/2” thick), seems like u might get an extra board or two from a log. I’m just trying to learn about all this so it’s not a bash. Nice video
Rough cut is generally true to size, dementional lumber is what the store bought stuff is called. In a newer video I did I made some 2x4s the size of the stuff in the stores for a project I am doing that I want to save weight on.
I don't know if your being so through because of a video or because its still new to you. I trust the measure on the saw and see how much wood is left and go from there. I try for one clear side of wain and divots then sastrength
Great demonstration.. thanks
Good vid!
Could you help me out and tell me the diameter of the clutch pully, driven pully, and band wheels? And if you know the rpm of the motor that would help, I'm trying to calculator the speed of the blade. Thanks!!
What kind of wood?
This is for anyone, when he says it's 6" X 10" does that mean 6 inches plus kerf? Or is it assumed that the kerf is gonna come out of the 2" per board? Thanks!
Also, at 28:08-ish, he cranks the head up and the engine seems about to stall but it recovers - any idea why? I didn't see him touch throttle. Did I miss it? Thanks!
The kerf will come out of the 2". The wood will shrink a bit as it dries anyway. Your not getting exactly 2x6 when it's all dried and cut.
I have two scales on mine (not familiar with the scale on this model in the video). I have an inch scale and a 'quarter' scale.....4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4....the quarter scale allows for kerf AND you end up with 1/8 over whatever.....4/4 is 1 1/8" lumber. This was because most old circle mills were notoriously inaccurate.....furniture/flooring factories required 4/4 lumber so they could actually dry and plane to to 3/4 finish lumber.
The inch scale is just that.....each inch drops the head exactly one inch. So your lumber loses 1/16 ish for the blade kerf, and about that much again as it dries.....you end up with a dry board right around 7/8" thick. If you need 3/4" finished lumber, sometimes this works, but the slightest variation in sawing and it doesn't. I saw my hardwood lumber on the quarter scale so I'm dang sure of finishing it to 3/4". My softwood lumber, I use the inch scale, because most of it isn't going for planed stuff needing to be 3/4, I use it in the rough stage, or just skip plane at most (knock it all down to the same thickness.....like 13/16".
Wow. Thanks for that explanation. That's pretty awesome. What type of machine do you have?
When yoi make one full turn and its 2 inches, does that allow for the kurf on the 2x6s?
Good Stuff thanks
Thanks for the awesome, detailed, demonstration of a Woodmizer mill. Excellent work by the camera woman.
There is no SMALL amount of work involved to get some 2x6 lumber, is there?
NICE VIDEO
Good day.
Do you use bi-metal blades or regular wood blades?
love it
How are you going to get 5 x 2 inch thick boards ?
Okay, I got questions! Lol
Rolling the log on that fast really shook the frame. Will that not eventually lead to wracking it?
When you first fire up to cut, I’ve always been told to let the blade run for a minute to warm it up and balance out the tension. Yes? No?
You cleaned the bark for the first cut, but not the second cut? (Oversight?)
How did you get five 2” cuts from a 10” cant? Was it actually 10 1/2” to start? Otherwise the bottom board would only be 6/4.
When you were sawing down to 6” on the 4th side, you could have taken a 2” slab and gotten a 6th 2x6 plus a 2x4, no? Or was the 1” worth more to you?
Very nice video, good camera work and explanation of everything! Wish I had pine logs that nice to play with! And of course the tractor... ha!
Thanks for watching. I haven't heard about letting the blade warm up. As far as 2 inch cuts, I move the blade down two inches eqch cut,, so yes, one of the boards will be a little thinner.
Good video