Rob G No problem. Torque specs are there for a reason and always best to go by them whenever possible. You’d be amazed at how many worn out parts I see as a result of improper torquing or simply not torqued at all. Even scarier is the component is usually a serious part such as a wheel stud, suspension bolt or steering part.
Thanks! And glad to see another appreciate the now “less desirable” body style. Definitely can’t go wrong with these old ones, they’re solid, parts are available and they look decent when lifted.
No, you do not. As long as you haven’t touched the inner control arm bolts. This method I show in the video stops you from having to get an alignment after since you’re only unbolting there balljoint which is not adjustable.
Great demonstration man, I don’t know what happened to the snap ring on the Intermediate shaft but it’s missing, causing the cv axle to move around so I got a new snap ring and hoping the cv axle will stay in place once I put the snap ring back on and press it back up to the Intermediate shaft. 😉 Thanks for the demo👍👍👍👍
They can have a tendency to fail to the point the break and fall apart and then fall out of the CV. I’ve seen that myself working as a mechanic on vehicles that get abused off-road mainly. No problem. Glad I could help.
The "C" clip that came with the new CV axle seemed way thinner than the original. Now, here it is a year later and I noticed some slop between the diff. housing and the axle. The original looked to be a Helluva lot beefier, but I lost it and never found it. I saw nothing wrong with the original, or I definitely would have used it over the new POS it came with.
Yup I’ve noticed that myself over the years that replacement clips, nuts and hardware in general all see smaller or cheaper feeling in general. Especially the C-clips, that’s why I generally try to get factory hardware when possible or clean up the old clips and reuse them if still solid.
On the front intermediate shafts inside the spider gears how do you get them back on? Having one hell of a time getting them on....need a special or specific tool? Just a technique? Thanks for any help.....ready to call the junkyard.....
For the intermediate shaft inside the housing you just grease them and slide them in, they might need a couple taps with a small hammer, make sure to not hit the splines. And then slide the C-clip over from the inside and squeeze closed while pulling back outward then install the pin through the carrier and install the bolt. Unless you’re referring to the actual stub end of the CV axle, to get that in, the easiest way is to lube the shaft with some grease including the C-Clip, don’t need a ton. Line the axle up with the splines on the housing and slide in, you’ll feel it stop, I just back it off just a little bit and then basically hammer force it into place by essentially ramming the axle. You’ll feel it pop into place. If that doesn’t work, the c-clip might be damaged from your attempts and needs to be replaced, you can get replacements. You can also remove the clip, clamp it in a vice (VERY CAREFULLY) to close the ends up a little more then reinstall over the axle stub end and try again.
What if I told you this is the more common sense, straightforward and correct way to do this job. Rather than fighting to get the CV angle to pop it into the hub and risk tearing the boot etc. I’m always gonna show people the correct ways to do things. To each their own.
You may need a pickle fork tool, it’s a wedged two prong fork to pop ball joints off, it can also put some pressure on the balljoint and you can smack the knuckle to pop it free. You can also use a balljoint press that attaches on and use an impact gun or breaker bar to pop it off. Sometimes they do rust weld themselves pretty solid. I’ve deal with that in the past working in shops and those suggestions I mentioned above typically work.
@@jakevalent6180 Should only be the axle nut holding the CV axle in the actual knuckle. The bolts on the backside of that hold the hub bearing assembly in place.
@@jakevalent6180 and there is a C-clip in the differential side that holds the axle in there as well. Usually pops out nicely with one or two pry bars opposite of each other with a jolting force.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic I watched a vid where the intermediate shaft came out along with the cv axle when the owner pryed it free. This has frightened me to the idea of forcing it
torque specs were a nice touch. thanks man
Rob G No problem. Torque specs are there for a reason and always best to go by them whenever possible.
You’d be amazed at how many worn out parts I see as a result of improper torquing or simply not torqued at all. Even scarier is the component is usually a serious part such as a wheel stud, suspension bolt or steering part.
great video man...love 3rd gens
Thanks! And glad to see another appreciate the now “less desirable” body style. Definitely can’t go wrong with these old ones, they’re solid, parts are available and they look decent when lifted.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yes sir
After that, do you need to make a wheel alignment ?
No, you do not. As long as you haven’t touched the inner control arm bolts. This method I show in the video stops you from having to get an alignment after since you’re only unbolting there balljoint which is not adjustable.
works for both side?
Yes Sir it does. Same process.
Great demonstration man, I don’t know what happened to the snap ring on the Intermediate shaft but it’s missing, causing the cv axle to move around so I got a new snap ring and hoping the cv axle will stay in place once I put the snap ring back on and press it back up to the Intermediate shaft. 😉 Thanks for the demo👍👍👍👍
They can have a tendency to fail to the point the break and fall apart and then fall out of the CV. I’ve seen that myself working as a mechanic on vehicles that get abused off-road mainly.
No problem. Glad I could help.
The "C" clip that came with the new CV axle seemed way thinner than the original. Now, here it is a year later and I noticed some slop between the diff. housing and the axle. The original looked to be a Helluva lot beefier, but I lost it and never found it. I saw nothing wrong with the original, or I definitely would have used it over the new POS it came with.
Yup I’ve noticed that myself over the years that replacement clips, nuts and hardware in general all see smaller or cheaper feeling in general. Especially the C-clips, that’s why I generally try to get factory hardware when possible or clean up the old clips and reuse them if still solid.
On the front intermediate shafts inside the spider gears how do you get them back on? Having one hell of a time getting them on....need a special or specific tool? Just a technique? Thanks for any help.....ready to call the junkyard.....
For the intermediate shaft inside the housing you just grease them and slide them in, they might need a couple taps with a small hammer, make sure to not hit the splines. And then slide the C-clip over from the inside and squeeze closed while pulling back outward then install the pin through the carrier and install the bolt.
Unless you’re referring to the actual stub end of the CV axle, to get that in, the easiest way is to lube the shaft with some grease including the C-Clip, don’t need a ton. Line the axle up with the splines on the housing and slide in, you’ll feel it stop, I just back it off just a little bit and then basically hammer force it into place by essentially ramming the axle. You’ll feel it pop into place. If that doesn’t work, the c-clip might be damaged from your attempts and needs to be replaced, you can get replacements. You can also remove the clip, clamp it in a vice (VERY CAREFULLY) to close the ends up a little more then reinstall over the axle stub end and try again.
Any luck im having the same problem
What if I told you that you didn't need to take anything but the tire off to replace that axle?
What if I told you this is the more common sense, straightforward and correct way to do this job. Rather than fighting to get the CV angle to pop it into the hub and risk tearing the boot etc. I’m always gonna show people the correct ways to do things. To each their own.
I cant get the upper ball joint to break loose to save my life.
You may need a pickle fork tool, it’s a wedged two prong fork to pop ball joints off, it can also put some pressure on the balljoint and you can smack the knuckle to pop it free.
You can also use a balljoint press that attaches on and use an impact gun or breaker bar to pop it off. Sometimes they do rust weld themselves pretty solid.
I’ve deal with that in the past working in shops and those suggestions I mentioned above typically work.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic cv Shaft feels fixed to the axle. Is there a retainer or something behind the axle cover on an 04 gen 3 4x4
@@jakevalent6180 Should only be the axle nut holding the CV axle in the actual knuckle. The bolts on the backside of that hold the hub bearing assembly in place.
@@jakevalent6180 and there is a C-clip in the differential side that holds the axle in there as well. Usually pops out nicely with one or two pry bars opposite of each other with a jolting force.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic I watched a vid where the intermediate shaft came out along with the cv axle when the owner pryed it free. This has frightened me to the idea of forcing it