A bank of many smaller capacitors tend to be cheaper than a single 10,000µF capacitor. Also, a big cap tends to take up a lot of vertical space, while a bank of smaller caps will take up a lot of horizontal space. So the dimensions of the box, and the space available on the circuit board plays a role here too. Plus, smaller capacitors will charge and discharge faster than a single large one. This improves transient response time - basically, the speed in which current can flow in and out the capacitor to the rest of the unit. The faster this current can flow, the less the signal is distorted when there is a sudden, high current demand, and the sooner the caps can recover after being depleted (or nearly so). This results high frequencies sounding better at high volumes, and bass notes retaining their "punch" at high volumes. But every capacitor has leakage. This is a tiny amount of current lost within the capacitor. No capacitor is perfect. And when we add a bunch together, we add up the leakage. So we use special capacitors with low leakage - but slightly more expensive. And using capacitors rated at double the voltage for their intended use also lowers leakage - again, more expensive. Thus, a 35v application would use a 70v capacitor to minimize leakage. Cheap engineers and/or manufacturers will use caps at or near their rated voltage to save money. Too much leakage, can reduce the voltage available to the unit, reduce efficiency, and reduce the life span of the caps themselves. Also, each cap has a tiny chance of failure at any given time. So a large bank of many small caps increase that chance of failure by the number of caps. Sometimes you will find a small cap in parallel with a large cap. This small cap is called a bypass cap. It's there to handle those fast transients (high notes at high volume) while the big cap handles the bulk of the current demand. it's not as effective as a bunch of small caps, but the failure rate is far less, and it takes up less real estate on the circuit board. You may notice that some boards have all kinds of free real estate, while others are crammed with electronic components.
This absolute explains why my JL hd1200.1 amp has so much more punch than my previous infinity k1000. Both used the same input signal and keeping same settings it sounded so much more punchy.
High voltage caps have a much higher ESR than lower voltage ones so you will more of them. Using caps rated at higher temperature and voltage drastically improves their lifetime (doubles for each 10deg below their rating)
Wish there was distortion, intermodulation, and also more circuit layout discussion like we get on ASR forums. Parallel caps have lower ESR than usually can be achieved in a single larger can. I think Panasonic doesn’t even make large value snap-in capacitors anymore.
@@Geoff240ti well full disclosure I used to work for JL so have only repaired JL amps but the class ab rockford amps and audio control amps look interesting as well. As for subs though I love my JL 10W7 and that has nothing to do with my history, its just a really smooth, deep and musical sub 👍
Good looking PCB. From my understanding, an array of smaller caps will have for plate and terminal surface area than fewer large caps. This can ensure faster current delivery as well as power and heat dissipation.
Many smaller caps will have a lower ESR resulting in faster and higher current capabilities. Also, you can distribute the current across more conductor with many smaller caps to distribute (heat) current load across more conductor, resulting in better cooling.
Oddly enough back in the 90s when I was big into this stuff, you were expecting to pay $1 per watt, for real world clean power. At least in Canadian dollars anyway, which at the time was about 35% less than USD. I do like that JL hasn't sold out it's brand and turned it into garbage.
I go back to 1990 JL audio 12 w5's dual 8ohm, and when the w6's triple stack, I had them, and in 99 or 2000 when the w3's came out I was first in line. I have 5 10w0's now. JL's quality has never disappointed.
The smaller capacitors that are tall rather that wide, this has a better geometry to reduce inductance in the capacitor, ESL (effective series inductance) . As a result they can transfer current better at high frequencies. Since the power supply switches at tens of kilo hertz, this is beneficial since it can deliver power with minimal impedance. The effective ESR (effective series resistance), this has to be low to minimize heat generated in the capacitor, this is stated as you can see on the capacitor "Low ESR", this not always the case.
Had 2 of these amps die at the same time in a build. Power supplies both went down virtually simultaneously. Very surprised. No apparent reason why. Was told this is not uncommon under prolonged low voltage conditions- which were seemingly not the issue on this particular build. Not sure if that’s accurate or not. Owner repaired at $400/each and have been fine since. A couple lemons maybe? Nothing against JL. They’re okay. Basically the Apple of the mobile/marine market though. Price to performance ratio is sub par at best.
You can never expect even the best amps to survive if someone with no knowledge of decent electrics keeps beating on them…All amps will die eventually under those conditions..
@@justkiddin1980 That’s presumptive, but again, since repair there have been no issues with either amp. Going on nearly 2 years since repairs without change in the electrical system (which consisted of HO alt and Northstar AGMs) or non-abusive listening habits.
"Basically the Apple of the mobile/marine market though." Which is why I buy Audiopipe amplifiers for my vehicles. They make their rated power and are not overpriced.
It's comments like this shows me who the brokeys really are "price to performance is sub par at best" are you kidding me. Sure you can buy a cheaper amp but the quality is going to be crap forcing one to eventually buy another amp which effectively will make it cost more. There is a saying that goes "buy it nice or buy it twice". Furthermore, these are the same people that sate those who buy Ferraris are fools when they can easily buy a corvette for a third of the cost because it does the same thing.... really bro, really... jeez
20 years ago I would have bought two of those amps, a couple of W7 subs, mids and a matching 300/4. All after spending a couple of hours at my favorite stereo shop killing time with friends and installers. Now I just putz around with my untouched factory stereo doing boring adult stuff.
I have been using my XD400/4v1 and two XD600/1v1 amps for 15 years now. They have never had an issue and always sounded great. It's great when you get what you pay for, quality and reliability.
The smaller caps have a few pros. Reliability, life expectation is higher. Better temp stability. Reduce fire hazard IF one fails. Lower internal inductance for a faster response. Cons Cost more the higher price of a single cap is generally less then the combined cost of 3 or 4 smaller caps plus most caps are installed and soldered by hand so more costs with more assembly. Board trace layout and space. When placing multiple round cans you take up dead space between them. Batch control Generally you want all the caps together to be from the same batch or match esr and inductance so they share the load evenly.
I had that Amp. Played it in the Arizona summer 110+ degrees windows down no ac. on 3 JL audio w6v3s. Max volume. No issues, never overheated once in 4 years. Sold it for a more powerful amp
Great comment sir. That’s fantastic to hear. The gentlemen who engineered this amplifier live and work in Phoenix. They are acutely aware of real world temps in cars, in the summer, in Phoenix. (I know this because I work with them)
I believe many amps who aim for quality still have amps that are only 2 ohm or even 4 ohm stable in bridged mode. I do believe the higher impedance is better for SQ in my opinion.
He used a sketchy designed subwoofer. Basically a novelty subwoofer, that he previously damaged and cob-job repaired. The sub had a dead short, from it rubbing the top plate under heavy load the first time he "tested" it and the spider lifted. Sub died, and killed the amp. It happens, and could happen to any amp..full or half bridge. Parker isn't the best, at doing actual tests and or reviews most of the time. But he's entertaining.
@@Bassotronics that amp that caught on fire is a common amp sold on Alibaba. Just rebadged. Now, on that same note, the Teampie amplifiers are also sold on Alibaba unbadged with the option of branding it with your own brand if you purchase like 5,000 units. EMF audio , along with many others all use the same amp with their own branding on them.
The fixed frequency subsonic is the worst thing about it, in my opinion. It really would make it so that you'd have to build a ported enclosure with that in mind. On an amp of that cost, it should certainly be variable.
I really don't mind not seeing it blow away the rated power. For ppl not competing in an amp class it makes the most sense to just know what you're getting. These days without a Big D video you might not know if an amp does half or double it's rated power
Gone are the days of the J.C. Whitney catalog where you were pretty much 100% guaranteed what you were getting was no more than 10% the advertised power - or less. So many of us were so uninformed back before the internet.
@@jdlech At least in Europe there are still some brands that claim 1000+W for something like a 2x50W puny thing. In the worst case (Auna) even less power and even more bloated numbers, like 6000 or even 10 000W (6 channels and a bit over 400 W total at 13,5 V and 1 % distortion) and one example (Auna AMP CH 02) that is marketed 1400 W max and has 34 W of total power, or the AB-650, 4800 W max, actual power 96 watts total to SIX channels! Technically they can be compared to something like 80's boomboxes as the amp chip(s) run straight from the 12 volts.
1000 at 2 ohm is not bad. Would be a decent single 12 inch setup. Thinking back I always saw these amps used in installs that for example, a friend of mine who does not work on cars, went to a shop and just had a single 10 inch system installed with the custom made boxes they sold designed for each model of car to fit in spare tire spaces or where the jack would normally be. It would always be an alpine head unit, a CD changer, a JL audio amplifier, those custom boxes and a JL audio sub either 10 or 12 inch class. I remember the one in my buddies firebird was a 10 inch JL in a sealed custom box that came out to be just under one cu ft stuffed with poly fill.
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated. These are a pricey item & they are not giving any breaks. Quoted 1800.00 for a vx800/8i, and not a dollar less, even after trying to haggle for an hour or so. I bounced. It appeared to be an impressive amp, that sounded great.
@@TheTecatemn I bought mine four years ago from Crutchfield for $899.99. I may have been turned on for a total of eight hours since then. It sits in a hall closet now with two JL Audio 300/1v2 amps.
Armchair EE nerd here. Electrically, the equivalent series resistance ("ESR") of a capacitor is a big reason why a choice would be made between giant bulk capacitors and an array of smaller ones (as JL has). Just like with the woofers when paralleled, more small capacitors will have a lower ESR, allowing the capacitor array to handle a much bigger peak power draw, as one would see with a thundering subwoofer in a typical music application. There are other considerations as well: -Heat dissipation (more capacitors = more surface area for cooling) -Space usage -Cost of bulk capacitor vs. capacitor array I don't think any of those are a major concern for JL Audio in this application, because: -The enclosed housing and cluster of capacitors wouldn't do much for dissipating heat from the capacitors -They clearly have plenty of space -JL seems to consistently prioritize quality over cost. (I do too.) Thanks for covering, Big D. 👍
multiple caps in parallel allows for less resistance.....but can cost more. but each situation is unique (obviously) -JL amps are extremely well designed and very high quality.. anyone who bashes on them has no idea what they are talking about (unless its about price! LOL)
A caps tolerance is typically plus or minus 5%. The bigger your cap the bigger your tolerances need to be. By using smaller caps you can tighten your electrical tolerances.
The multiple small value capacitors equal lower impedance, which equals releases the energy quicker with less loss. This was pioneered by Peter Stein of ME Sound in Australia.
I don’t know about the mono XD1000, but the sub channel is definitely regulated on my XDM1000/5 channel on the sub output. It’ll do 600 watts just for the sub channel at both 12.5V up to 14.4v
Using many smaller capacitors in parallel instead of few big ones lowers the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the capacitor circuit helping with dynamic current delivery.
Hey WA Lab… I wanted to see if you can either answer or both answer and show amps that have best efficiency. By efficiency, I mean amps that do not tax an car’s electrical system too much, and would/could possibly perform well without huge power output upgrades. Many of the amps you show with decent power take so much amperage to run, that an 100-150amp alternator would barely put out to keep up with most of those 1k amps. And since most newer car’s electrical systems are really sensitive to voltage spikes and drops, that would be a cool series to help people that want to bump & retain an unmolested factory electrics- or mildly upgraded ones that just need a cap or additional battery. Cheers
"Fire in the hole" is an excellent catchphrase, and you should be dropping that line before the start of your Dyno test every video. Made me laugh so hard!
One thing JL Audio always provides is super clean and deep sounding bass, especially when you pair their amplifiers with their subwoofers. I always enjoyed the tonality and accuracy of JL equipment. The numbers on the amp dyno don't really address that (SQ) aspect, but it's very important, and its why they are justified in asking a higher price, imho.
JL Audio has always been a company that delivers well-thought-out, well-designed and reliable products. And these things shouldn't be cheap. The question is whether it can compete on price with European or Japanese amplifiers. If we talk about real SQ, I will always choose a European or Japanese amplifier for not powerful (60-80 watts per channel) 4-channel amplifier for midranges and tweeters. As for subwoofers or subwoofer monoblocks, JL Audio has succeeded in this. Thank you for your test and review.
@@poohwecampbell7799 I'm actually talking about sound quality and not about SPL. I'm pissed off by cars that can hear bass from half a mile away. Well, to each his own. In terms of sound quality, JL Audio does a great, right bass.
i had jl subs when they first came out in the 90's on a fogate power 300........used to eat punch series subs, the jl's just kept going and going......
The reason I can come up with off the top of my head for using smaller capacitors just faster charge faster discharge with less heat than the larger capacitors. I think the larger capacitors can handle The higher temps were longer and probably the thermal cycles better. I am not an electrical engineer but I do have a understanding of physics and that is my conclusion and nothing more.😊
My friend, check out a hybrid battery/capacitor Hi-Fi Vega did a review on recently... If you have a few free minutes.... It was cool and almost seemed to defy pesky things like physics lol It was sweet though and reasonable price! New technology is awesome! So is old school though! Can't underestimate the OG stuff that got us here 😁🍻❤️🎶 Now, crank that puppy up! P.S. - I apologize I hadn't finished the video yet and I was thinking of external capacitors, but still, if interested, check it out and have a wonderful day!
smaller capacitors with the same total capacitance of a larger cap do not recharge faster or have better thermals. there are caps, big and small that have the same temperature rating. the main advantage to using lots of small caps vs. a few bigger ones would be lower esr (resistance across the cap), handle higher ripple current, and better high frequency rejection.
@@bensonak47 The only reason I brought up the thermal capacitance wasn't the rating but the volume of mass more mass you have the more he can take at a longer period of time before it degrades. And I understand the ripple effect that's what I mean by charging and recharging the cycles are less affected in the smaller capacitors. All things have thermal detegration and usually the slower the Thermo cycles the log or something will last.
Yes! I’ve used mine since the day I bought it many years ago and I have used the Slash-500/1 in all my vehicles trying other brands and ALWAYS going back to it for its super reliable power! I see them on ebay sometimes for good prices.
Hey buddy have ever tested a 'power accustic' over drive series 3500 if so can you let me now how it tested. If not u think u can test one would really appreciate it. Thank u love ur show
Because it's sound quality you're buying, not SPL output. And these amps are tanks when properly powered. Seen plenty running just fine after 12-15 years.
@smellsuperb1 there other amp that coast less that last just as long when properly used and im positive 90 percent of people aren't going to be able to hear this and say I can tell that it's a JL audio I can hear the sound quality difference . JL good but in my opinion way over priced on a. Lot of there models and most people that are willing to pay way more for some of there models are paying just because of the name like the w7 there cost per sub for the material under 300$ the other 700- 1200$ your pay depending on when and exact model for the name patient and tooling for JL not because the quality that much more. money then any author sub out there again my opinion from what I've seen and if the are so much better you wouldn't see quite a bit of them damage and selling dirt cheap on ebay compared to normal what it originally cost 💯👊👍✌️😉
@@josephsaucedo8691 you're confusing perceived value with actual value. Using FB marketplace as your guide is misleading, bc you're only telling one side of the equation. Also, some people are just selling things out of desperation, they're not concerned about market value. I currently have a car audio store and I've been selling car audio for almost 30 years on and off. JL Audio holds value better than any other US-based brand and I have the sales records to prove it. JL isn't using off-the-shelf motherboards and capacitors, their higher end amps are bespoke. Again, it's not an SPL brand. SQ or SQL, yes definitely. And for every brand that can do similar for a lower price, you have others that can be much more costly (Focal, Audison, Mosconi, Braxton, Morel, etc etc). I'm never going to tell anybody what they should spend, but I will absolutely tell them best overall value for their long-term dollar. And if that happens to be JL for their application I'm going to tell them. You can get better performance from a modern 6-cyl twin turbo Toyota than a 1970 Chevelle SS LS6, but the Chevelle guy isn't wrong for wanting a muscle car.
@@josephsaucedo8691It's comments like this shows me who the brokeys really are Sure you can buy a cheaper amp but the quality is going to be crap forcing one to eventually buy another amp which effectively will make it cost more. There is a saying that goes "buy it nice or buy it twice". Furthermore, these are the same people that sate those who buy Ferraris are fools when they can easily buy a corvette for a third of the cost because it does the same thing.... really bro, really jeez
Dunno about this xd line but the HD 1200 is the best I’ve heard. Put up against a taramps 5k and even at same volume or louder the JL is just more detailed. I really tried to make the taramps good enough but it just can reproduce the detail like JL can
i noticed that too, im not really sure what warrants going this route over the rd1000/1. i have installed both, and i cant tell the difference for some things
I’m sure I got this wrong and I’m going to get a bunch of flack for this. Did the engineer who designed the PPI art series amplifiers go from Precision Power to Xtant and then finally to JL? If so then the JL amplifiers at least the ones from around the late 2000 would be the final descendants of the art series lineage?
Im glad that the Brands like JL and RF are still around showing the world what engineering looks like. Beyond reliability and quality. There is predictability. You can depend that their ratings are pretty solid and makes it easy to choose the correct speakers to pair. Most blown speakers these days occur. Because some Korean, off the shelf amp, with no real regulation was used. Then they set their gains the "Reddit" way and clip the signal. Pop even more subs.
Thoughts on a used JL 1000/1 like this or the JP23? I have 2 X JL 12W3s and had a JP8. I felt I was maxing the amp and the speakers wanted more than 400 watts each that the JP8 was providing. Ive had XTANT in the past, so Im familiar with quality and damping of the amp. I just want to make sure Im getting loads of easy clean power to the subs.
My buddy had the old version 1000.d that he cranked all day long. That thing would get warm and that's it. It powered 2 kicker comp r 12's. Not the most powerful, but you probably won't blow it
Hi there I would like to know can I drop down 4 kicker comps to one ohm stable they are dual forearm speakers the black ones with the red stitching. And if so how can I do it
I've owned 4 JL amps (2 of 'em being V1 500/1 that are still working) and they were all pretty darn good, but I really don't think they'll get any more money outta me. Nothing personal, just think I can get more for the money.
A few things big D... You said you have to pay for quality...which I agree... But where is it in this amp? 1. Efficiency wasn't stellar 2. Can't go under 2 ohms 3. Regular rca inputs 4. No bass remote 5. Not that much power Where is the actual quality of it? Or is it just the name and a built in power regulator?????
I'm still waiting for someone to dyno the JL RD1500/1. With the impedance switch, it's rated at 1500 watts at 1 and 2 ohms. I'm curious if it's really the same at 1 ohm, or it's underrated. At 12 volts, it's 1200 for 2 ohms, and still 1500 for 1 ohm, which confuses me because at 1 ohm, it's rated same 1500 at 14.4 volts.
The large and few vs small and many...well here's a few reasons: 1. Smaller caps can be arranged in a way that can be an advantage to the board layout, kinda like filling a box with sand instead of rocks - you could fit in MORE 2. Lower overall ESR - effective series resistance. The lower you can bring this number (in milliOhms for switching supplies) the better the filtering and less heat. Even though large caps have the advantage of being lower in ESR overall compared to same capacitance smaller ones they get expensive if low ESR caps are chosen - the smaller caps tend to be cheaper in that sense as they are much more mass produced 3. An ounce of reliability - if the caps to fail, at least there are still some that will still work...if it were just two or three of them that would be trouble As for using large caps it is almost idiot proof, but certain good practices in board layout and design are not fully met. One example is having the caps as close as possible to the rectifier, smaller caps could fit in ahead in that example than large cans.
I've always had a question and I wonder with the modern amps using the phone jack for the bass knob are they compatible with other amplifiers. Can you take a bass knob off a scar audio and throw it on that JL?
They are most likely wired differently, and if they are wired the same the chances that the potentiometer inside the knob is the same is probably slim... They're probably the same from brands that repackage similar designs, but I wouldn't try one of them on a JL or a Rockford amp.... You're already buying a nice amp, get the correct knob.
Slick Willy just did a series of tests with several amplifier remotes from different brands, and on multiple amplifiers ..and no they don't work the same, just due to the type of cable used. Typically they will work/interchange, on brands that use the same boards from the same build house.
Love the content and JL! I have had JL Amps, Subs and speakers. It would be cool to see a Slash 1200 on the dyno! Do you still daily a 10w6? This amp would push it quite nicely!
Does it sound better then a Fosgate? Honestly when i have the budget Fosgate makes a great amp, right now my wallet is on a Skar audio budget but man for $500 i got a box with x2 12s and a RP 1200.1d and it hits smooth low and clear. I notice with Skar tho has to be turned perfectly it's my experience after owning 3 dif Skar amps mechanical clipping you can hear, so feed them propper power and tune them accordingly.
I’ve only used JL Audio for years. The old slash series. Power rating aside, nothing I’ve ever heard hits and clean and as hard as JL Audio. 2 W7’s and JL Audio 1000/1 pure subwoofer bliss. I have 2 that are over 10 years old still banging daily. Can the new Korean stuff say that?
Hey. I enjoy enjoy your videos and you have become my go to when looking for power on a specific amp. On that note. Is there any chance u could do a test on the DD audio M4? Not m4a or b. But just the last generation m4? I’ve looked all over and haven’t found that on a dyno. I went to that from the sundown salt 4 and it seems significantly more powerful. I ran them both at .5 ohm. Thank you.
I thought this was going to be an amp from the mid 2000's based on it's size, looks, 2ohm load and regular rca's. I didn't realize it was an amp that was actually currently for sale. It just appears a bit dated and doesn't seem like it has enough features to warrant it's price tag other than implied quality.
@@Thezuule1 JL simply cost more : Products designed, researched, development, tested, quality control all in house by JL engineers & many of it hand built. Unlike many copy cat brands : No engineer department Only copy & paste Rebranding rebadging using cheaper parts mass production minimized quality control It's like eating a great steak at an expensive restaurant vs. a hamburger from McDonald's ect ect Your gonna remember both experiences but only one was good How they're doing is relevant : Gives consumers choices
Can you elaborate more on why a bunch of smaller capacitors would be better than a few bigger ones? My guess would be more efficient? Easier to fill up a bunch of smaller than a few bigger? Thanks Big D!
Though i myself do not use any JL audio stuff i can say sometimes the high end priced stuff does last. I have a buddy with a rockford t1500.1 that has been pounding away for sooo many years now without a care in the world.
Comments are funny 😂. ANY amp can be blown. Jl isn't a Chinese alibaba catalog amp. They have been in the game a long time. And more geared towards the sq crowd or people that just want a little bump. Had the og w6's back in the day. And numerous pairs ov w6 v2's and v3's. Jl will always have my respect.
![JL Audio HD900/5 Amp Dyno Test and Review [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qhPekKkacCc/mqdefault.jpg)
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*VIDEO INDEX*
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2:12 Amp Dyno Tests
6:33 What's Inside?
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Be careful mate, someone's pretending to be you..
Bro I think you got hacked. I got a message from "you" saying to text you with a phone number.
@@drgenerico83 they are scammers ignore them. It's not me, they are using my profile photo
A bank of many smaller capacitors tend to be cheaper than a single 10,000µF capacitor. Also, a big cap tends to take up a lot of vertical space, while a bank of smaller caps will take up a lot of horizontal space. So the dimensions of the box, and the space available on the circuit board plays a role here too. Plus, smaller capacitors will charge and discharge faster than a single large one. This improves transient response time - basically, the speed in which current can flow in and out the capacitor to the rest of the unit. The faster this current can flow, the less the signal is distorted when there is a sudden, high current demand, and the sooner the caps can recover after being depleted (or nearly so). This results high frequencies sounding better at high volumes, and bass notes retaining their "punch" at high volumes.
But every capacitor has leakage. This is a tiny amount of current lost within the capacitor. No capacitor is perfect. And when we add a bunch together, we add up the leakage. So we use special capacitors with low leakage - but slightly more expensive. And using capacitors rated at double the voltage for their intended use also lowers leakage - again, more expensive. Thus, a 35v application would use a 70v capacitor to minimize leakage. Cheap engineers and/or manufacturers will use caps at or near their rated voltage to save money. Too much leakage, can reduce the voltage available to the unit, reduce efficiency, and reduce the life span of the caps themselves. Also, each cap has a tiny chance of failure at any given time. So a large bank of many small caps increase that chance of failure by the number of caps.
Sometimes you will find a small cap in parallel with a large cap. This small cap is called a bypass cap. It's there to handle those fast transients (high notes at high volume) while the big cap handles the bulk of the current demand. it's not as effective as a bunch of small caps, but the failure rate is far less, and it takes up less real estate on the circuit board. You may notice that some boards have all kinds of free real estate, while others are crammed with electronic components.
This absolute explains why my JL hd1200.1 amp has so much more punch than my previous infinity k1000. Both used the same input signal and keeping same settings it sounded so much more punchy.
When you put bunch of them in parallel it also reduces the parasitic resistance aka ESR...
This kinda knowledge is priceless and was explained very well, even a dumbfuck like me could fillow that 😂 cheers bro 👌
High voltage caps have a much higher ESR than lower voltage ones so you will more of them. Using caps rated at higher temperature and voltage drastically improves their lifetime (doubles for each 10deg below their rating)
Wish there was distortion, intermodulation, and also more circuit layout discussion like we get on ASR forums. Parallel caps have lower ESR than usually can be achieved in a single larger can. I think Panasonic doesn’t even make large value snap-in capacitors anymore.
I'm on 20 years with my 500/1 and 5 cars still rocking after 2 car accidents with the sub box hitting it. Tis but a scratch. Battle scars!
I've bought 3-4 XD amps used. They all continue to work great years later. Highly recommend second hand if you can test them, avoids the high price.
The xd line is fairly easy to repair
@@jakep8484 good to know! One used purchase has something rattling around inside but still performs fine.. so far.
@@Geoff240ti i would check that out, could short something eventually. Xds and slash are my favorite jl amps.
@Jake P good advice, I'll pull it from that vehicle and have a look. Haven't tried a slash amp yet, any other favorites from other brands?
@@Geoff240ti well full disclosure I used to work for JL so have only repaired JL amps but the class ab rockford amps and audio control amps look interesting as well. As for subs though I love my JL 10W7 and that has nothing to do with my history, its just a really smooth, deep and musical sub 👍
Have rocked jl audio for years. Still have a 1000/1 anp and a w7-8 kicking around. Expensive but very quality stuff!
I still use my JL Audio 500/1 you helped me decide to buy years ago.
Thank you Big D!
Same
Good looking PCB. From my understanding, an array of smaller caps will have for plate and terminal surface area than fewer large caps. This can ensure faster current delivery as well as power and heat dissipation.
Yes, due to the lower series resistance and inductance. Less power loss and heat dissipation = longer life.
Lower ESR
And you can put that pcb into a slim case. Wouldnt be possible with a huge, round single cap.
@@napnapnop So prior, engineers knew nothing of ESR and current delivery? Today, still few home amps use a small cap array.
Many smaller caps will have a lower ESR resulting in faster and higher current capabilities. Also, you can distribute the current across more conductor with many smaller caps to distribute (heat) current load across more conductor, resulting in better cooling.
Oddly enough back in the 90s when I was big into this stuff, you were expecting to pay $1 per watt, for real world clean power. At least in Canadian dollars anyway, which at the time was about 35% less than USD.
I do like that JL hasn't sold out it's brand and turned it into garbage.
Time will tell if this statement remains to be true.
I go back to 1990 JL audio 12 w5's dual 8ohm, and when the w6's triple stack, I had them, and in 99 or 2000 when the w3's came out I was first in line. I have 5 10w0's now. JL's quality has never disappointed.
The smaller capacitors that are tall rather that wide, this has a better geometry to reduce inductance in the capacitor, ESL (effective series inductance) . As a result they can transfer current better at high frequencies. Since the power supply switches at tens of kilo hertz, this is beneficial since it can deliver power with minimal impedance. The effective ESR (effective series resistance), this has to be low to minimize heat generated in the capacitor, this is stated as you can see on the capacitor "Low ESR", this not always the case.
Had 2 of these amps die at the same time in a build. Power supplies both went down virtually simultaneously. Very surprised. No apparent reason why. Was told this is not uncommon under prolonged low voltage conditions- which were seemingly not the issue on this particular build. Not sure if that’s accurate or not. Owner repaired at $400/each and have been fine since. A couple lemons maybe? Nothing against JL. They’re okay. Basically the Apple of the mobile/marine market though. Price to performance ratio is sub par at best.
You can never expect even the best amps to survive if someone with no knowledge of decent electrics keeps beating on them…All amps will die eventually under those conditions..
@@justkiddin1980 That’s presumptive, but again, since repair there have been no issues with either amp. Going on nearly 2 years since repairs without change in the electrical system (which consisted of HO alt and Northstar AGMs) or non-abusive listening habits.
"Basically the Apple of the mobile/marine market though."
Which is why I buy Audiopipe amplifiers for my vehicles. They make their rated power and are not overpriced.
possibly a loose connection
It's comments like this shows me who the brokeys really are "price to performance is sub par at best" are you kidding me. Sure you can buy a cheaper amp but the quality is going to be crap forcing one to eventually buy another amp which effectively will make it cost more. There is a saying that goes "buy it nice or buy it twice". Furthermore, these are the same people that sate those who buy Ferraris are fools when they can easily buy a corvette for a third of the cost because it does the same thing.... really bro, really... jeez
20 years ago I would have bought two of those amps, a couple of W7 subs, mids and a matching 300/4. All after spending a couple of hours at my favorite stereo shop killing time with friends and installers. Now I just putz around with my untouched factory stereo doing boring adult stuff.
I have been using my XD400/4v1 and two XD600/1v1 amps for 15 years now. They have never had an issue and always sounded great. It's great when you get what you pay for, quality and reliability.
The smaller caps have a few pros. Reliability, life expectation is higher. Better temp stability. Reduce fire hazard IF one fails. Lower internal inductance for a faster response.
Cons
Cost more the higher price of a single cap is generally less then the combined cost of 3 or 4 smaller caps plus most caps are installed and soldered by hand so more costs with more assembly.
Board trace layout and space. When placing multiple round cans you take up dead space between them. Batch control Generally you want all the caps together to be from the same batch or match esr and inductance so they share the load evenly.
I had that Amp. Played it in the Arizona summer 110+ degrees windows down no ac. on 3 JL audio w6v3s. Max volume. No issues, never overheated once in 4 years. Sold it for a more powerful amp
Great comment sir. That’s fantastic to hear.
The gentlemen who engineered this amplifier live and work in Phoenix. They are acutely aware of real world temps in cars, in the summer, in Phoenix. (I know this because I work with them)
Love the videos you produce Big D. My favorite by far!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
I believe many amps who aim for quality still have amps that are only 2 ohm or even 4 ohm stable in bridged mode. I do believe the higher impedance is better for SQ in my opinion.
7:15 The idea is supposed to lower the Equivalent series resistance of the capacitance. The theory is the smaller caps should discharge much faster.
I'm dying at the amp that doesn't catch fire statement after watching Parker the basehead video on his new amp catching fire this morning.
He used some sketchy brand I never heard of. Probably has sketchy protection circuit.
He used a sketchy designed subwoofer. Basically a novelty subwoofer, that he previously damaged and cob-job repaired. The sub had a dead short, from it rubbing the top plate under heavy load the first time he "tested" it and the spider lifted. Sub died, and killed the amp. It happens, and could happen to any amp..full or half bridge. Parker isn't the best, at doing actual tests and or reviews most of the time. But he's entertaining.
@NoB.S Audio agreed. He is backyard mhead style. Comedy not review.
@@numlockkilla 💯 agree
@@Bassotronics that amp that caught on fire is a common amp sold on Alibaba. Just rebadged. Now, on that same note, the Teampie amplifiers are also sold on Alibaba unbadged with the option of branding it with your own brand if you purchase like 5,000 units. EMF audio , along with many others all use the same amp with their own branding on them.
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*VIDEO INDEX*
0:00 Intro
0:38 Features and Specs
2:12 Amp Dyno Tests
6:33 What's Inside?
7:49 Pros and Cons
8:34 Final Thoughts
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Love your videos. This is one where I wish you had done a sub test. It's always good to see.
I use a XD600/1 v2 and I get 990w using a SMD DD-1+ 40hz test tone. I currently have it set for 850w to match my 2 12Tw3s. Sounds fantastic!!!
The fixed frequency subsonic is the worst thing about it, in my opinion. It really would make it so that you'd have to build a ported enclosure with that in mind. On an amp of that cost, it should certainly be variable.
That is my okay gripe with their amps. I bought the HD1200/1 amp. I love it but there's no adjustment for the subsonic filter as its fixed to 30hz.
I really don't mind not seeing it blow away the rated power. For ppl not competing in an amp class it makes the most sense to just know what you're getting.
These days without a Big D video you might not know if an amp does half or double it's rated power
True, as long as the amp does its rated power, I'm happy with that.
Gone are the days of the J.C. Whitney catalog where you were pretty much 100% guaranteed what you were getting was no more than 10% the advertised power - or less. So many of us were so uninformed back before the internet.
@@jdlech Pyramid for the WIN!!!
@@jdlech At least in Europe there are still some brands that claim 1000+W for something like a 2x50W puny thing.
In the worst case (Auna) even less power and even more bloated numbers, like 6000 or even 10 000W (6 channels and a bit over 400 W total at 13,5 V and 1 % distortion) and one example (Auna AMP CH 02) that is marketed 1400 W max and has 34 W of total power, or the AB-650, 4800 W max, actual power 96 watts total to SIX channels! Technically they can be compared to something like 80's boomboxes as the amp chip(s) run straight from the 12 volts.
@@jdlech my first sub was a 12 inch subwoofer from JC Whitney and a two channel Boss amp in 1997 or so
1000 at 2 ohm is not bad. Would be a decent single 12 inch setup. Thinking back I always saw these amps used in installs that for example, a friend of mine who does not work on cars, went to a shop and just had a single 10 inch system installed with the custom made boxes they sold designed for each model of car to fit in spare tire spaces or where the jack would normally be. It would always be an alpine head unit, a CD changer, a JL audio amplifier, those custom boxes and a JL audio sub either 10 or 12 inch class. I remember the one in my buddies firebird was a 10 inch JL in a sealed custom box that came out to be just under one cu ft stuffed with poly fill.
The dope ass amp. Packs a lot of powers for the features and it's going to be clean as be as you would expect from audio control😊
😅😅😅😅😅
Where was the audio control amp?
@@ah4800it was a way back 😊
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated. These are a pricey item & they are not giving any breaks. Quoted 1800.00 for a vx800/8i, and not a dollar less, even after trying to haggle for an hour or so. I bounced. It appeared to be an impressive amp, that sounded great.
$18.00 for that amplifier? Was a crackhead selling it for quick cash?
@@ThatsNotFunnyThatsSick I wish, $1800.00, which appears to be full retail pricing. That's so expensive.
@@TheTecatemn I bought mine four years ago from Crutchfield for $899.99. I may have been turned on for a total of eight hours since then. It sits in a hall closet now with two JL Audio 300/1v2 amps.
Armchair EE nerd here. Electrically, the equivalent series resistance ("ESR") of a capacitor is a big reason why a choice would be made between giant bulk capacitors and an array of smaller ones (as JL has). Just like with the woofers when paralleled, more small capacitors will have a lower ESR, allowing the capacitor array to handle a much bigger peak power draw, as one would see with a thundering subwoofer in a typical music application. There are other considerations as well:
-Heat dissipation (more capacitors = more surface area for cooling)
-Space usage
-Cost of bulk capacitor vs. capacitor array
I don't think any of those are a major concern for JL Audio in this application, because:
-The enclosed housing and cluster of capacitors wouldn't do much for dissipating heat from the capacitors
-They clearly have plenty of space
-JL seems to consistently prioritize quality over cost. (I do too.)
Thanks for covering, Big D. 👍
JL, you can be reassured she'll keep the sounds bumpin for many many many years without issues.
JL audio is quality.
multiple caps in parallel allows for less resistance.....but can cost more. but each situation is unique (obviously) -JL amps are extremely well designed and very high quality.. anyone who bashes on them has no idea what they are talking about (unless its about price! LOL)
One of the best brands ever. Quality is always better then quantity! Thank you Big D!!!
Watching from Jamaica 🇯🇲. Like when u see this
Have a wonderful day friend in Jamaica! 🍻❤️🌎
Don't tell me what to do... Lol
A caps tolerance is typically plus or minus 5%. The bigger your cap the bigger your tolerances need to be. By using smaller caps you can tighten your electrical tolerances.
The multiple small value capacitors equal lower impedance, which equals releases the energy quicker with less loss. This was pioneered by Peter Stein of ME
Sound in Australia.
I don’t know about the mono XD1000, but the sub channel is definitely regulated on my XDM1000/5 channel on the sub output. It’ll do 600 watts just for the sub channel at both 12.5V up to 14.4v
ok big D since this isnt a mi9ckey mouse operation which would you buy D4S or JL A?
Using many smaller capacitors in parallel instead of few big ones lowers the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the capacitor circuit helping with dynamic current delivery.
Salute! Solid reliable quality amp. You get what you pay for. Buy what you can afford Bassheads.
JL is the best😂😂😂😂
That price and no Stephany styled RCA’s? SMH…
Hey WA Lab… I wanted to see if you can either answer or both answer and show amps that have best efficiency. By efficiency, I mean amps that do not tax an car’s electrical system too much, and would/could possibly perform well without huge power output upgrades. Many of the amps you show with decent power take so much amperage to run, that an 100-150amp alternator would barely put out to keep up with most of those 1k amps. And since most newer car’s electrical systems are really sensitive to voltage spikes and drops, that would be a cool series to help people that want to bump & retain an unmolested factory electrics- or mildly upgraded ones that just need a cap or additional battery. Cheers
"Fire in the hole" is an excellent catchphrase, and you should be dropping that line before the start of your Dyno test every video.
Made me laugh so hard!
One thing JL Audio always provides is super clean and deep sounding bass, especially when you pair their amplifiers with their subwoofers. I always enjoyed the tonality and accuracy of JL equipment. The numbers on the amp dyno don't really address that (SQ) aspect, but it's very important, and its why they are justified in asking a higher price, imho.
JL Audio has always been a company that delivers well-thought-out, well-designed and reliable products. And these things shouldn't be cheap. The question is whether it can compete on price with European or Japanese amplifiers. If we talk about real SQ, I will always choose a European or Japanese amplifier for not powerful (60-80 watts per channel) 4-channel amplifier for midranges and tweeters.
As for subwoofers or subwoofer monoblocks, JL Audio has succeeded in this.
Thank you for your test and review.
Sorry JL Audio is low budget subwoofer & Amplifier,too expensive if you want deep bass they are not the way to go
@@poohwecampbell7799 I'm actually talking about sound quality and not about SPL. I'm pissed off by cars that can hear bass from half a mile away. Well, to each his own. In terms of sound quality, JL Audio does a great, right bass.
The Gomer Pyle cut is new and funny. Thanks.
Use to have one of these amps on 2 13W3 amp is a beast and did wonderful on stock electrical.
i had jl subs when they first came out in the 90's on a fogate power 300........used to eat punch series subs, the jl's just kept going and going......
Yep, I like JL. Miss my original 300w slash series. After wasting my money on 3 cheap amps I finally ponied up and bought a real amp.
My JL W0 despite its small coil can handle some good amount of Bass!
I also have a 12” Bass Acoustics that cost me $59 and still working.
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I've had the xd600/6 pushing my front stage Audio Frog GBs for several years. Never an issue.
I love it when you do JL amps! It would be interesting to see how the lesser of the mono blocks do in comparison.
JL has always designed and made clean products.
For a few dollars more minus well, just get the Audiocontrol LC 1500.1. 500 more watts is never a bad thing!
Do it bump doe?
The reason I can come up with off the top of my head for using smaller capacitors just faster charge faster discharge with less heat than the larger capacitors. I think the larger capacitors can handle The higher temps were longer and probably the thermal cycles better. I am not an electrical engineer but I do have a understanding of physics and that is my conclusion and nothing more.😊
My friend, check out a hybrid battery/capacitor Hi-Fi Vega did a review on recently... If you have a few free minutes.... It was cool and almost seemed to defy pesky things like physics lol It was sweet though and reasonable price! New technology is awesome! So is old school though! Can't underestimate the OG stuff that got us here 😁🍻❤️🎶 Now, crank that puppy up!
P.S. - I apologize I hadn't finished the video yet and I was thinking of external capacitors, but still, if interested, check it out and have a wonderful day!
smaller capacitors with the same total capacitance of a larger cap do not recharge faster or have better thermals. there are caps, big and small that have the same temperature rating.
the main advantage to using lots of small caps vs. a few bigger ones would be lower esr (resistance across the cap), handle higher ripple current, and better high frequency rejection.
@@bensonak47 The only reason I brought up the thermal capacitance wasn't the rating but the volume of mass more mass you have the more he can take at a longer period of time before it degrades. And I understand the ripple effect that's what I mean by charging and recharging the cycles are less affected in the smaller capacitors. All things have thermal detegration and usually the slower the Thermo cycles the log or something will last.
How do you feel about the JL Slash 500 ?and do these amps have a good resale value?
Yes! I’ve used mine since the day I bought it many years ago and I have used the Slash-500/1 in all my vehicles trying other brands and ALWAYS going back to it for its super reliable power! I see them on ebay sometimes for good prices.
Many caps in parallel is lower internal resistance. No point having large cap if it can't discharge fast
Hey buddy have ever tested a 'power accustic' over drive series 3500 if so can you let me now how it tested. If not u think u can test one would really appreciate it. Thank u love ur show
The RCA not Tiffany and no bass knob ouch for the price no low ohm load for how much 🤯🎶🎵🛠️👌👍✌️
Because it's sound quality you're buying, not SPL output.
And these amps are tanks when properly powered. Seen plenty running just fine after 12-15 years.
@smellsuperb1 there other amp that coast less that last just as long when properly used and im positive 90 percent of people aren't going to be able to hear this and say I can tell that it's a JL audio I can hear the sound quality difference . JL good but in my opinion way over priced on a. Lot of there models and most people that are willing to pay way more for some of there models are paying just because of the name like the w7 there cost per sub for the material under 300$ the other 700- 1200$ your pay depending on when and exact model for the name patient and tooling for JL not because the quality that much more. money then any author sub out there again my opinion from what I've seen and if the are so much better you wouldn't see quite a bit of them damage and selling dirt cheap on ebay compared to normal what it originally cost 💯👊👍✌️😉
@@josephsaucedo8691 you're confusing perceived value with actual value. Using FB marketplace as your guide is misleading, bc you're only telling one side of the equation. Also, some people are just selling things out of desperation, they're not concerned about market value. I currently have a car audio store and I've been selling car audio for almost 30 years on and off. JL Audio holds value better than any other US-based brand and I have the sales records to prove it. JL isn't using off-the-shelf motherboards and capacitors, their higher end amps are bespoke. Again, it's not an SPL brand. SQ or SQL, yes definitely. And for every brand that can do similar for a lower price, you have others that can be much more costly (Focal, Audison, Mosconi, Braxton, Morel, etc etc).
I'm never going to tell anybody what they should spend, but I will absolutely tell them best overall value for their long-term dollar. And if that happens to be JL for their application I'm going to tell them. You can get better performance from a modern 6-cyl twin turbo Toyota than a 1970 Chevelle SS LS6, but the Chevelle guy isn't wrong for wanting a muscle car.
@@josephsaucedo8691also, 70% of equipment failure is user error/abuse. Don't blame JL for the actions of negligent buyers.
@@josephsaucedo8691It's comments like this shows me who the brokeys really are Sure you can buy a cheaper amp but the quality is going to be crap forcing one to eventually buy another amp which effectively will make it cost more. There is a saying that goes "buy it nice or buy it twice". Furthermore, these are the same people that sate those who buy Ferraris are fools when they can easily buy a corvette for a third of the cost because it does the same thing.... really bro, really jeez
Capacitors have internal resistance.. more caps less resistance.. so the power supply can handle short high current power draw..
Dunno about this xd line but the HD 1200 is the best I’ve heard. Put up against a taramps 5k and even at same volume or louder the JL is just more detailed. I really tried to make the taramps good enough but it just can reproduce the detail like JL can
It’s crazy how the JL RD1000/1 outperformed this amp
i noticed that too, im not really sure what warrants going this route over the rd1000/1. i have installed both, and i cant tell the difference for some things
I’m sure I got this wrong and I’m going to get a bunch of flack for this. Did the engineer who designed the PPI art series amplifiers go from Precision Power to Xtant and then finally to JL? If so then the JL amplifiers at least the ones from around the late 2000 would be the final descendants of the art series lineage?
Im glad that the Brands like JL and RF are still around showing the world what engineering looks like. Beyond reliability and quality. There is predictability. You can depend that their ratings are pretty solid and makes it easy to choose the correct speakers to pair. Most blown speakers these days occur. Because some Korean, off the shelf amp, with no real regulation was used. Then they set their gains the "Reddit" way and clip the signal. Pop even more subs.
Let me guess, you think steve meade is the best too?
Did I catch that right from 4 to 2 ohms it doubled itself, on a factory alternator under 110 amps? Bitchin
Thoughts on a used JL 1000/1 like this or the JP23? I have 2 X JL 12W3s and had a JP8. I felt I was maxing the amp and the speakers wanted more than 400 watts each that the JP8 was providing. Ive had XTANT in the past, so Im familiar with quality and damping of the amp. I just want to make sure Im getting loads of easy clean power to the subs.
My buddy had the old version 1000.d that he cranked all day long. That thing would get warm and that's it. It powered 2 kicker comp r 12's. Not the most powerful, but you probably won't blow it
Hi there I would like to know can I drop down 4 kicker comps to one ohm stable they are dual forearm speakers the black ones with the red stitching. And if so how can I do it
Multiple capacitors can charge up way faster than a single capacitor. This allows for much faster power response.
Could you do a jp8 strapped/linked dyno run. I just got a second one. And I am just curious. 😊 thanks D
I've owned 4 JL amps (2 of 'em being V1 500/1 that are still working) and they were all pretty darn good, but I really don't think they'll get any more money outta me. Nothing personal, just think I can get more for the money.
Easily. JL has lost their mind.
@@Thezuule1 they seem to be doing OK. Lol
@@msh6865 as I said in my other reply, how they're doing has absolutely nothing at all to do with what I said.
A few things big D... You said you have to pay for quality...which I agree... But where is it in this amp?
1. Efficiency wasn't stellar
2. Can't go under 2 ohms
3. Regular rca inputs
4. No bass remote
5. Not that much power
Where is the actual quality of it? Or is it just the name and a built in power regulator?????
I have a JL Audio JX1000 class D amp. I've been waiting for a dyno test on here, nothing so far. I would gladly send you mine to test.
I'm still waiting for someone to dyno the JL RD1500/1. With the impedance switch, it's rated at 1500 watts at 1 and 2 ohms. I'm curious if it's really the same at 1 ohm, or it's underrated. At 12 volts, it's 1200 for 2 ohms, and still 1500 for 1 ohm, which confuses me because at 1 ohm, it's rated same 1500 at 14.4 volts.
The large and few vs small and many...well here's a few reasons:
1. Smaller caps can be arranged in a way that can be an advantage to the board layout, kinda like filling a box with sand instead of rocks - you could fit in MORE
2. Lower overall ESR - effective series resistance. The lower you can bring this number (in milliOhms for switching supplies) the better the filtering and less heat. Even though large caps have the advantage of being lower in ESR overall compared to same capacitance smaller ones they get expensive if low ESR caps are chosen - the smaller caps tend to be cheaper in that sense as they are much more mass produced
3. An ounce of reliability - if the caps to fail, at least there are still some that will still work...if it were just two or three of them that would be trouble
As for using large caps it is almost idiot proof, but certain good practices in board layout and design are not fully met. One example is having the caps as close as possible to the rectifier, smaller caps could fit in ahead in that example than large cans.
Why didn't you test 1.5ohms like you suggested it would match the JL subwoofers?
I actually like that you show an 8 ohm load.
Do it bump tho?
Any amp with decent SNR? I would prefer 120...140db but it seems like most are crappy 90db only. And thd 0.1% ?
I've always had a question and I wonder with the modern amps using the phone jack for the bass knob are they compatible with other amplifiers. Can you take a bass knob off a scar audio and throw it on that JL?
No sir, they may be and are likely wired differently internally
They are most likely wired differently, and if they are wired the same the chances that the potentiometer inside the knob is the same is probably slim...
They're probably the same from brands that repackage similar designs, but I wouldn't try one of them on a JL or a Rockford amp.... You're already buying a nice amp, get the correct knob.
Slick Willy just did a series of tests with several amplifier remotes from different brands, and on multiple amplifiers ..and no they don't work the same, just due to the type of cable used. Typically they will work/interchange, on brands that use the same boards from the same build house.
Hey big D can You do a budget amp Viking 15000 Looking at it on Amazon just wondering what it Does ? supposedly have Brazilian Goats.??
Love the content and JL! I have had JL Amps, Subs and speakers. It would be cool to see a Slash 1200 on the dyno!
Do you still daily a 10w6? This amp would push it quite nicely!
Does it sound better then a Fosgate? Honestly when i have the budget Fosgate makes a great amp, right now my wallet is on a Skar audio budget but man for $500 i got a box with x2 12s and a RP 1200.1d and it hits smooth low and clear. I notice with Skar tho has to be turned perfectly it's my experience after owning 3 dif Skar amps mechanical clipping you can hear, so feed them propper power and tune them accordingly.
I ran JL subs and PPI pro mos for years , these remind me of old PPI SUPER high damping got to get the 1000 this year 😁
ok, but there is a lot of class D 1200+ watts amps for a lot less than $600. Still leaves me wondering what makes this amp worth $600 ?
I’ve only used JL Audio for years. The old slash series. Power rating aside, nothing I’ve ever heard hits and clean and as hard as JL Audio. 2 W7’s and JL Audio 1000/1 pure subwoofer bliss. I have 2 that are over 10 years old still banging daily. Can the new Korean stuff say that?
I have 2 of these amps would you recommend me pair them to the 12 inch w7 subs or the 13 1/2 subs
Hey. I enjoy enjoy your videos and you have become my go to when looking for power on a specific amp.
On that note. Is there any chance u could do a test on the DD audio M4?
Not m4a or b. But just the last generation m4? I’ve looked all over and haven’t found that on a dyno.
I went to that from the sundown salt 4 and it seems significantly more powerful. I ran them both at .5 ohm.
Thank you.
I would assume the smaller caps charge and discharge more efficiently. Just a guess.
I thought this was going to be an amp from the mid 2000's based on it's size, looks, 2ohm load and regular rca's. I didn't realize it was an amp that was actually currently for sale. It just appears a bit dated and doesn't seem like it has enough features to warrant it's price tag other than implied quality.
JL is one of the last companies from the 2000s trying to cash in on their name.
@@Thezuule1 they're doing fine. Car audio is just one of their divisions. Hifonics is a better example of a company "cashing in".
@@msh6865 I don't care how they're doing, that's irrelevant.
@@Thezuule1 JL simply cost more :
Products designed, researched, development, tested, quality control
all in house by JL engineers & many of
it hand built.
Unlike many copy cat brands :
No engineer department
Only copy & paste
Rebranding rebadging
using cheaper parts
mass production
minimized quality control
It's like eating a great steak at an expensive restaurant vs. a hamburger from McDonald's ect ect
Your gonna remember both experiences
but only one was good
How they're doing is relevant :
Gives consumers choices
7:42 lol they are 220μF 100V, not 1000V :)
sony jbl kenwood car amplifier how many amps transformer should l supply for home use?
500 amp transformer and big generator with huge battery and backup car for big home ise
Can you elaborate more on why a bunch of smaller capacitors would be better than a few bigger ones? My guess would be more efficient? Easier to fill up a bunch of smaller than a few bigger?
Thanks Big D!
You can pack more of them on a smaller footprint and maybe financially it is more better
I have Jl products so I really appreciate these videos. Could we get a dyno of the RD1500/1
Thanks for the suggestion
Great video!! Can you test the Audiopipe APMOX Amps?? They’re tiny - I can’t believe the power handling 😳
I love JL Audio
Love how you show the wire setup on a subwoofer, ohm load
Though i myself do not use any JL audio stuff i can say sometimes the high end priced stuff does last. I have a buddy with a rockford t1500.1 that has been pounding away for sooo many years now without a care in the world.
JL is not a cookie cutter brand....JL for the win!
Comments are funny 😂. ANY amp can be blown. Jl isn't a Chinese alibaba catalog amp. They have been in the game a long time. And more geared towards the sq crowd or people that just want a little bump. Had the og w6's back in the day. And numerous pairs ov w6 v2's and v3's. Jl will always have my respect.
What amp input reducer is that on the ground wire input?
Using more small caps help distribute the power more efficiently
Williston Audio Labs can you dyno Zapco 750 ref. thanks
another one i've
been waiting for thank you BIG D