As usual, interesting and informative, Dave. It's great to see some of the peripheral activities that make possible the main action of your craft. Col, NZ.
Fascinating, I was taught by my grandfather to sharpen a bit with a forge and a swage. He drilled with both a single jack and a double jack before he had a compressor. He said you "never grind a bit." I think he would change his mind today.
You got that right Ken, however when you use these kind of drill steels on very hard rock with heavy hammers you do tend to break them in that the tungsten insert fails.
Dave have those drill stems got a bore hole running through them to feed compressed air down the hole to help clear out the dust? Would the compressed air also help to cool the drill rod?
Often wondered what your maintenance involved with drills. Useful jig - am assuming the insert is carbide and then presumably the wheel is a ''green'' wheel... results look great. Imagine the button one are rather pricey.
Yes, it is very hard carbide insert and yes, it is a greenstone wheel. The button bits are just replaceable knock on heads - morse taper principal, you can sharpen these also using a high speed air grinder and little diamond cups. The hammers also wear out too quickly and need all sorts of internal bit.
Unlike tool steel and other cutting tips used on lathes and mills, grinders can remove super hard materials with ease. On the other hand, grinding belts can do jobs like polish crankshaft journals with precision to ensure long life.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast In the late 70s I worked in a air tool manufacturing factory , Running gInner diameter or outer diameter grinders , and those grinder wheels would run pretty fast . Fast enough to put holes in the corrugated steel roof many times. I looked at those holes in the roof and knew it was a problem ... ..................It didnt take long before I got another job. Bad things can happen doing jobs like that, and I am sure things are very different 45 years later. Industrial accidents are very expensive
Thanks Dave that answers a few questions I had wondered about. You mentioned the steels with the “buttons”. Are they welded in or just force fitted to the cutting end ? Another great informative video for us curious onlookers ! Cheers
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast No shortage of long bits here............ So when drilling a horizontal drift in a mine they pump water through the drill steel t and out the bit. I know catchment ponds and settlement ponds are used and required by the environmental protection Agency. . I would assume the dry drilling and vacume filters do away with all the water runoff. Problems .
Good question Peter, it all depends on the rock. Old style chisel bits like these loose the sharp edge quickly compared to new style button bits. In really hard rock you might be really slowing down after 20 holes but in softer sedimentary formations you might do 200 - 300 holes.
@@andik859 sorry you did not understand, I mean that only people in Beirut understand how bad it is when you are too close to a large explosion. Most people have not had the experience.
Very interesting video, Dave. What are you using as a cooling fluid - just water, or something mixed in with it? (Used to paint Trefolex on stuff I was turning on the lathe, but that was an old lathe without a cutting fluid feed.) Also, wise move on the chipped wheel. That's why I don't like buying wheels from a certain large hardware outlet because I don't know if someone has dropped the wheel on the floor at some time - I prefer to buy from a professional tool place where the wheels are stored behind the counter or in the store room.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast All vitrified bond wheels are brittle. The word you were looking for is friable. The bonding of the abrasive grains needs to be softer on silicon carbide wheels in order to release them when they are too dull to cut the tungsten carbide inserts which are actually harder than the "green" silicon carbide wheel abrasive. The cutting action on the cemented tungsten carbide insert is achieved by eroding the binder matrix holding the tiny grains of tungsten carbide, not cutting it, as happens with the much softer steel retaining the insert. When/if you get around to using diamond wheels you will discover that the dressing and sharpening of them depends on eroding the binder. That wheel with a divot on the edge is probably usable if it were dressed round again. As you know, or should know the integrity of a vitreous bonded grinding wheel is checked by "ring testing" and should be done whenever installing a grinding wheel , and especially after suspected or actual damage. Bye the way, Dave can you tell us the "proper" angle for the cutting edge , or is that a trade secret ? My guess is that the optimal angle would vary with the hardness of the rock being drilled. Edit: When are you and BLASTER GIRL coming across the pond to help out letsdig18 with those pesky boulders he has ?
@@deconteesawyer5758 Hi, just found this comment now, the best "all round edge angle is 110 degrees and the radius is 80mm. I would love to do a collaboration video with LD18. I'll look up ring testing, assuming that if it is cracked it does not ring nicely?
Ja, jag har många Atlas Copco-verktyg - borrar, borrstänger och borrhuvuden, en stor XAS375-kompressor, en ROC203 AirTrack borrigg etc. Det enda problemet är att reservdelarna är prissatta som om de är gjorda av guld.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast I'm interested in rock drilling but have never done it with real equipment (just hand hammer drills and big box concrete bits). How much faster do the button bits drill as compared to the cross bits?
You buy one from Prodrill China - prodrill.en.made-in-china.com/product/VKsJPnUAvhct/China-200mm-Pneumatic-Integral-Drill-Rod-Chisel-Bit-Grinding-Machine.html
Are the integral ends replaceable when you sharpen all the carbide away, or do you have to toss the entire steel? I assume if the carbide shattered you could probably braze a new one in, but I suppose that's rare?
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast You can cut the end off and machine a taper to suit the removable button bits. It works I have done it! The other Demolition Dave.
@@actionman862 I have also done this Action Man, however I have fond that they do not last very long and tend to break prematurely, have you found this also??
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast I have only done a few and not had any failures. I did anneal the last 50mm of the steel before turning the taper on the lathe.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast The bars are usually made of a very tough steel called S7 or it's equivalent (Bohler 245) that makes excellent knife, axe and sword blades. Knife makers are always looking for some, you may be able to chunk worn-out bars up and sell them.
What people do not realize is the time to prepare your equipment to do the work. Tool maintenance is important to doing the job. Thumbs up mate
Always something to fix, thanks for watching EB
First time i have ever seen them sharpe or sharpened. Thank you.
Your Welcome Scruffy, I might have to do a hammer rebuild video soon, the way things are going with COVID19 work restrictions here.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast that would be nice to watch i have never seen one repair. All i did was hand one in and was given a working one back.
It’s strange but I’m never happier than when I have to repair or maintain something. Thank you Dave that’s fascinating.
I can relate to the satisfaction of having fixed something yourself.
As usual, interesting and informative, Dave. It's great to see some of the peripheral activities that make possible the main action of your craft. Col, NZ.
There is always plenty to do between jobs, it is a very high ware and tear endeavour , Thanks for watching Colin
Nice jig looks like it makes the job sharpening a lot easier 👍
Sure is, another tool from your part of the world.
Fascinating, I was taught by my grandfather to sharpen a bit with a forge and a swage. He drilled with both a single jack and a double jack before he had a compressor. He said you "never grind a bit." I think he would change his mind today.
Wow... that is doing it hard, that is how all the early railway tunnels were drilled and blasted.
Very interesting video Dave 👍
Thanks for watching Bob.
i always wondered how the bits were sharpened.thanks for the information dave
Thanks for watching.
Looks like you could get a good number of times that you can sharpen them at least.
Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
You got that right Ken, however when you use these kind of drill steels on very hard rock with heavy hammers you do tend to break them in that the tungsten insert fails.
Excellent vid.... Again I learned something in here without even trying 👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to hear it, keep watching.
Dave have those drill stems got a bore hole running through them to feed compressed air down the hole to help clear out the dust? Would the compressed air also help to cool the drill rod?
That is correct Mark
Often wondered what your maintenance involved with drills. Useful jig - am assuming the insert is carbide and then presumably the wheel is a ''green'' wheel... results look great. Imagine the button one are rather pricey.
Yes, it is very hard carbide insert and yes, it is a greenstone wheel. The button bits are just replaceable knock on heads - morse taper principal, you can sharpen these also using a high speed air grinder and little diamond cups. The hammers also wear out too quickly and need all sorts of internal bit.
339👍's up thanks again for taking us to work with you for the rest of the story
Thanks for listening
Serious equipment, for a serious guy.
..sharp drills make easy work of making holes..lol..good job..keep safe..
It's never easy Bob, but sharp helps a lot.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast ..i should say ''easier'' drilling..lol..
Im forever taking burrs of my concrete trowels(i dont like buying new stuff n mine tend to get thin), so i know the feels on this one. Agape dude.
I know the feeling, I have worn out several spades e.g. worn down to half the length.
Greetings Dave
Unlike tool steel and other cutting tips used on lathes and mills, grinders can remove super hard materials with ease. On the other hand, grinding belts can do jobs like polish crankshaft journals with precision to ensure long life.
A regular grinding wheel or angle grinder will not touch this stuff, only polishes it, you need a greenstone wheel or diamonds.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast In the late 70s I worked in a air tool manufacturing factory , Running gInner diameter or outer diameter grinders , and those grinder wheels would run pretty fast . Fast enough to put holes in the corrugated steel roof many times. I looked at those holes in the roof and knew it was a problem ... ..................It didnt take long before I got another job. Bad things can happen doing jobs like that, and I am sure things are very different 45 years later. Industrial accidents are very expensive
Thanks Dave that answers a few questions I had wondered about.
You mentioned the steels with the “buttons”. Are they welded in
or just force fitted to the cutting end ?
Another great informative video for us curious onlookers !
Cheers
The Tungsten buttons appear to be just pressed in, I have had a few come out.
Looks good.
It not only looks good but it does a great job!
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast No shortage of long bits here............ So when drilling a horizontal drift in a mine they pump water through the drill steel t and out the bit. I know catchment ponds and settlement ponds are used and required by the environmental protection Agency. . I would assume the dry drilling and vacume filters do away with all the water runoff. Problems .
Yes, dry vac is a very clean way to do it. Still a legal requirement here to wet drill underground.
Assuming the insert is a grade of tungsten carbide.
Do both of your grinders run green wheels or is there a diamond wheel on the jig grinder?
They are both Greenstone.
How many holes for example 500 mm depth can you drill before resharpening insert drill ?
Best regards Peter from Sweden
Good question Peter, it all depends on the rock. Old style chisel bits like these loose the sharp edge quickly compared to new style button bits. In really hard rock you might be really slowing down after 20 holes but in softer sedimentary formations you might do 200 - 300 holes.
Always I've worked with boton mouths, never I've seen how is sharped this types of mouths. Thank you very much, regards ...
Glad it was helpful Albert
Now it snows in Australia. Dave must work with snowplow. And Beirut is blow down from Ammonium Nitrate. What a giant blast there.
Unless you have been too close to a large explosion you can not imagine what it would have been like there.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast i didnt understand you. Please ask me so i can read what you mean. Thank you.
@@andik859 sorry you did not understand, I mean that only people in Beirut understand how bad it is when you are too close to a large explosion. Most people have not had the experience.
I think you should have been working packing the salami myself ;)
Tip repyar work video
Very interesting video, Dave.
What are you using as a cooling fluid - just water, or something mixed in with it? (Used to paint Trefolex on stuff I was turning on the lathe, but that was an old lathe without a cutting fluid feed.)
Also, wise move on the chipped wheel. That's why I don't like buying wheels from a certain large hardware outlet because I don't know if someone has dropped the wheel on the floor at some time - I prefer to buy from a professional tool place where the wheels are stored behind the counter or in the store room.
Just using water.
Yeah the greenstone wheels are very brittle
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast All vitrified bond wheels are brittle. The word you were looking for is friable. The bonding of the abrasive grains needs to be softer on silicon carbide wheels in order to release them when they are too dull to cut the tungsten carbide inserts which are actually harder than the "green" silicon carbide wheel abrasive. The cutting action on the cemented tungsten carbide insert is achieved by eroding the binder matrix holding the tiny grains of tungsten carbide, not cutting it, as happens with the much softer steel retaining the insert. When/if you get around to using diamond wheels you will discover that the dressing and sharpening of them depends on eroding the binder. That wheel with a divot on the edge is probably usable if it were dressed round again. As you know, or should know the integrity of a vitreous bonded grinding wheel is checked by "ring testing" and should be done whenever installing a grinding wheel , and especially after suspected or actual damage. Bye the way, Dave can you tell us the "proper" angle for the cutting edge , or is that a trade secret ? My guess is that the optimal angle would vary with the hardness of the rock being drilled.
Edit: When are you and BLASTER GIRL coming across the pond to help out letsdig18 with those pesky boulders he has ?
@@deconteesawyer5758 Hi, just found this comment now, the best "all round edge angle is 110 degrees and the radius is 80mm. I would love to do a collaboration video with LD18. I'll look up ring testing, assuming that if it is cracked it does not ring nicely?
Jag bor i Sverige... Härifrån kommer mycket av Atlas Copcos kompressorer borrmaskiner och annat bra...
Ja, jag har många Atlas Copco-verktyg - borrar, borrstänger och borrhuvuden, en stor XAS375-kompressor, en ROC203 AirTrack borrigg etc. Det enda problemet är att reservdelarna är prissatta som om de är gjorda av guld.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast Jo dom är dyr här oxå... Jag har Gruvteknik i blötberget 15km bort som har allt till äldre atlas Copco...
Swedish machine :)
Correct, best quality.
Nice!!!!!
Thanks SP You could extended yourself just a little e.g "Nice and shiny"
You seem to use cross bits primarily. Do you prefer them over button bits? Or is it a cost and/or ability to sharpen issue?
Oh, Ballistic button bits win in just about every application JW. I can't sharpen button bits yet, maybe soon.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast I'm interested in rock drilling but have never done it with real equipment (just hand hammer drills and big box concrete bits). How much faster do the button bits drill as compared to the cross bits?
Hello..
how do I get this metal tooth machine?
Is the god small?
You buy one from Prodrill China - prodrill.en.made-in-china.com/product/VKsJPnUAvhct/China-200mm-Pneumatic-Integral-Drill-Rod-Chisel-Bit-Grinding-Machine.html
Thank you
from the bottom...🌹
Sir 7 feet ka rad hai kya apke pass
Give me ans plzz
Hi
I need rod tapering and hardening videos
hows the covid lockdown affecting business?
It's quiet Bruce, there is talk of going to a higher level of lock down very shortly, that will be interesting.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast
not good.
a friend lives on the border and the checkpoint is literally outside his kitchen window
Are the integral ends replaceable when you sharpen all the carbide away, or do you have to toss the entire steel?
I assume if the carbide shattered you could probably braze a new one in, but I suppose that's rare?
No, once they are worn out then you are left with a nice strong steel bar for whatever. I have never heard of replacing the carbide insert.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast You can cut the end off and machine a taper to suit the removable button bits. It works I have done it! The other Demolition Dave.
@@actionman862 I have also done this Action Man, however I have fond that they do not last very long and tend to break prematurely, have you found this also??
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast I have only done a few and not had any failures. I did anneal the last 50mm of the steel before turning the taper on the lathe.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast The bars are usually made of a very tough steel called S7 or it's equivalent (Bohler 245) that makes excellent knife, axe and sword blades. Knife makers are always looking for some, you may be able to chunk worn-out bars up and sell them.
And tell me 7feet rad price
hi sir
Hi Rahim. Thanks for watching.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast Sir, where will you get this equipment? And you will get this rod bat. I want this equipment.
You can buy from Atlas Copco.
New rohd rate pilij
Not useful