Sharpening small diameter button bits
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2021
- When drilling blast holes in rock, drill wear is a considerable part of the cost and always having sharp drills assures good progress and minimises wear on other parts of the system. Don't throw out your worn drill heads, re grind them.
Edit - I take back any bad things said or implied about the grinder, it speed decrease was all cause by a hidden speed control and no English instructions.
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I take back any bad things said or implied about the grinder, it speed decrease was all cause by a hidden speed control and no English instructions.
Where did you get the grinder ? Purchase source?
Thanks for adding this! Great videos 👍
I have
I have found those button bits. before that they are threaded they don't have the taper.. the only issue I found was you can't just order like a dozen of them.. I want your order like thousand or more at a time.. and the company I found them through they sell a tool for removing the buttons so that you can pound new buttons back in the bits.. some us companies sell it by the pound and some other countries sell it by The kg.. but they're more set up to do business with like huge mining companies that can buy you know 500kg of buttons at a time I will price tag right around like $35,000.. I know this information probably doesn't help you.. because you typically use different lengths of drill bits.. and drill most of your holes with a handheld drill.. that's air powered... I prefer a different set up.. it attaches to an excavator the drilling rod is 30 ft long and uses hydraulic power and high-pressure water to cool the bed and push out the Rock pieces.. what is the fan option that I can use air to blow out the hole.. after I found the bottom.. there's a gauge inside the cab that tells me exactly how deep the hole is and what angle is being drilled at.. but props to you dealing with the dust wind and heat of Australia.. I like my air conditioning.. I also like the aspect that I can drill any direction. I can drill holes underneath me above me straight into a wall or completely sideways.. if I need to go deeper then well the drill set up a 30ft the rods are 25ft long I can add a another section 25 foot of rod if need be. .. and a excavator attachment is Way cheeper then say like a joy jumbo.. but your way of drilling holes not saying it's a bad thing I just think that if you have to drill like a dozen holes and you do it like once or twice a year that makes sense but.. the only way you should be carrying a drill around as if you're dropping high-rise buildings or you going to pack a drill over your shoulder and go up 50 storeys and drill into all the supporting concrete columns.. that's a fun job.. not really.. imagine being in a building that's been half demolished and gutted so no windows no walls except for some of your exterior walls that are concrete in part of the structure.. and you have to drill holes into the column why are wearing a safety harness and there's 20 mile-an-hour gusts of winds blowing through the building trying to blow you out of the window that's been removed and it's a 60-story drop and the only thing you have to hold onto is a little rope attached to your harness.. of course if you fall there's about 20 other people drilling holes so it doesn't matter how much you scream nobody's going to hear you..
As far as your drill is concerned I would say way too much oil.. air tools are great butt oil is good to add maybe a couple of drops into the tool directly when you first start.. but too much oil can kill the air tool. So you're in line oiler.. I would remove that one running that tool.. nowadays I mainly work metal and we do use drills and grinders and when I work with my dad I use nail guns.. two or three drops is all you need for a whole day use.. not a half a quart per hour..
I always wondered how you Sharped your bits, And now I know. Thanks Dave.
Good one . Surprising how well they clean up .
They seem to drill well also Bob.
I like the safety gear. Dave you are a very smart and carefull . I worked in a tannery and handled every poison on the WHIMIS list. 64 years young and still in perfect health. Safety gear is wonderful.
Thanks Mark, knowing about what you are working with and having the right gear is everything. I got a bit messed up by the chemicals that I used on my first job as a teenager, makes you more careful.
I thought it was possible to change just the little "bits" on the head, but i didn't thought i was possible to sharp them.
I learned something new again today.
Thank you for the vidéo.
Glad I could help!
thanks Dave... I am forever going to be seeing that sharpening contraption coming at me when I go to the Dentist!!
oooh.. going to the dentist will never be the same.
Really love the "how-to" videos. More Please!!!
Good idea, might t do one on how to replace pawles, springs and plungers in a rock drill soon, got 2 that need doing.
The home office and research center for Kennametal is 2 miles from where I live and friends of mine own carbide grinding businesses. Many times the carbide is silver brazed into the base metal. They also do diamond dust adhering to cutting surfaces. Carbide material was invented by vanadium alloy steel company. The people that worked for vanadium back into day were the McKenna brothers. They work in research for vanadium and left the company before carbide was patented. The rest you can figure out.
Thanks for that YT.
I was going to mention that he might be able to braze in new buttons, however the real question is would it be cost effective with time and materials.
G'day Dave very interesting video never seen video on sharpening the small dill heads. Great job mate
Glad you enjoyed it.
228👍's up demolition Dave thanks a lot for taking us all up with you on a work day
My pleasure.
Thanks Dave for the excellent how to video and its great to see safety is a priority would never have thought there would be cobalt in that drill head hope you can either fix your sharpener or get a suitable replacement resharpening instead of throwing away has to be more cost effective in the long run
Glad you enjoyed it Scott. I hope it is just wrong oil or something.
Dave, I've had the opportunity to work with Hastaloy 238, an austentistic stainless steel alloy. This material is, as is every alloy produced by Hanes International, proprietary. Welding all Hastaloy variants is a breeze, flows like honey, banks nicely and makes a welder appear much more skilled than we are. Unfortunately grinding and buffing made me sick and formed a nasty rash. It took some time, given the proprietary nature of the metal, but eventually doc' determined I had a severe reaction to Boron, an element used in the alloy prosses. Knowing what your working with is paramount to being safe. So, good lesson Dave and another great video.
Wow, your doctor was good to pick that up. Thanks for watching John.
Looks great Thanks for the brief
No problem Joe 👍
in the mid 1980's i was trained as an electronics service tech for high end electronic test equipment, on of the boss's told me about Beryllium, which was used with copper for connectors and terminals as it prevented sparks when connections were made or broken, and didn't corrode.
.
he also explained how toxic berylium dust is and NEVER EVER file, sand or grind the stuff.
.
safety first ALWAYS.
great video Dave, i never knew you could resharpen the little drills.
Well... how about that, I was an electronics service tech also, and was also aware that Beryllium Oxide was mixed with the ceramic part of high power stud mount RF transistors - added for it's heat transfer ability - these were easily broken during removal by untrained persons... nobody accept me seemed to care too much!
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast Hi Dave, interesting video, regrind worked great until ying yang went south, sounds like it's the vanes that's sticking, or some kind of blockage, hope Warrenty works out for ya, it's dissapointing mate, is there any way you can adapt the grinding bit onto an ordinary air tool? And supply a separate water lube, that way you'd only have to buy cutters!, cheers mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
The slow dawn can be many things but first try the spin (by hand) the sharpening side to see if a bearing is going it should turn so easy (unless it's a gear box one), there is then two other parts to check, the water side as it's seal can cause problems but the area to really check is the input side, some of the Chinese made air tools had a air diverter in the handle to allow the speed, if the handle is not set in the right then the air will not push the blades the right way, it happens on some die grinders I have used till we locktighted them in the right spot.
But anyway it's great to see a video of the small drills being sharpened, I have seen in person the well drill rock heads sharpened.
That is cool happy to see you!!!
Thanks for watching Ralf.
Hope you're safe from the floods Dave.
from Dave's Victorian location the floods are about 1000km (600+) miles north in New South Wales, Dave only has to worry about Spade Tailed Wombats and the occasional Drop Bear.
Hey Dave, Very interesting! What's doing the grinding in the cone - diamond or tungsten carbide or ? I'll call my drill steel supplier next week to see if he has new tools or suggestions. Something NOT made in China. Stay well! Happy drilling! Jim ( I did see the compressor go boom! Awesome! )
thanks for the informative video dave.i would be looking at adapting a battery powered die grinder to do it .
It requires some pressure so get one with all the torques on it
This channel is strangely addictive........i think its Daves charisma! I like thrifty money saving measures. My ancestors are mostly Scottish............joke "How was copper wire invented? Answer : Two Scotsmen fighting over a penny"
Gotcha... I'm married to somebody with some scotch heritage... say no more.
Awesome 👏
...great info. nice work ,keep safe....
Thanks, you too!
It's probably freezing up. You need a moisture separator
Interesting thought James, it did not seem to be cold though, I have a separator, I'll give that a try.
I have noticed he gets a lot of moisture out of his air line when he blows dirt away. Those gas powered air compressors always seem to blow a lot of moisture.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast separators don't really work. You need a filter that removes water.. one that uses the stuff they put in those little packets can't spell it or say it right .hah hah
@@johnscott2849 silica gel?
@@MGSsancho yeah but was thinking of desiccant Made one from a water filter. Glued a capped tube in it. Drilled a bunch of small holes in the bottom 1/4 and ran the air into the outlet so it would blow into the desiccant. Works great. One big enough for my compressor was 300$. Less the 50 in this. Supposed to be able to dry it on low heat in the oven up to 30 times. Changes color when it needs changed or dried.
Would like to know what they say. You certainly tested it well. 👍
Often wondered about this Dave - very interesting to see your approach. If that saves you about $35 each time it's got to be good! Pretty handy grinding tool and results look great. .. but, not so good regarding the RPM's dropping. Had wondered too how much life the actual grinding head might last.
The first grinding cup sharpened the first two batches of heads ok.
It may have worn or sticking seals.
First thing I would try is rinsing the old oil out, cleaning it up, and putting some lighter oil in, maybe proper air tool oil, and see if it runs the same speed.
If it sounds the same, take it apart and check the seals.. It's likely a vane motor, with plastic spring loaded vane seals, and they may have worn down fast, or be sticking and not putting pressure on the walls.
If they are worn out, you may be able to upgrade the seals.
It sounds like the air may just be bypassing the motor.
Could also have a shaft seal or valve issue..
So my guess is either worn seals or gummed up oil.
And you may need to run it off a regular small compressor with a tank, because they don't dump as much moisture.
Or put a nice filter dryer lubricator in front of it.
It may be an air tool like your drills, but it is a more delicate device and needs better conditions, and probably different oil lol
Pretty sure I have got to the bottom of the issue now but have not tried it out again yet.
If you do the resharps properly with the diamond burrs and with water for lubrication and dust suppression. The buttons being made from tungsten carbide composition last for a while . I've done bit sharpening heaps . Best to cut back around the buttons with grinder just enough to get full depth for the burrs . Bear in mind some burrs are for taper / ballistic button and others are for round dome buttons. Most bits I've used on the rock drills have been R 32 thread for the steel coming out of the drifter / hammer drill . Using knockon bits is cheaper depending on the use ,amount required etc . I've worked for mobs such as Boart Longyear, Sandvik etc. Used and trialed many bits from manufacturers .
Looks like your standard 45mm bit your using there . Great video mate , hope you continue to get a good life span out of you bits both new and resharps.
Thanks for commenting Rick, you should post some video. Most of my drill heads are H22 Knock on's and some R32's for the AirTrack rig.
As much as k would like mate , I don't have the camera equipment to make anything like videos . Only have my experience from sharpening bits for the Cost per meter / Price per meter contracts that the company I worked for years prior . Your equipment is beauty to those of us who have working in the mining sector . It's a pleasure to see rock drills working giving the desired result prior to charging and firing. I remember being charge up crew years back when at end of shift having for fire all the headings that we charged and the occasional stope. Everything we fired was using a "stinger " on the firing lines , once the heading had fired , turn the vent fans back on and move onto the next firing point so on until all done . It gave a feeling of accomplishment when hearing all the holes go off before the fans get turned on again. Love your videos mate , excellent camera footage on all of them . Best continued success .
Hi Dave, good to see you doing a little work for a change :), give me a call if you are looking for grinding cups, we generally stock most sizes. All the best mate. Carl Mitchell
Hey, thanks for dropping in Carl.
I had a poor experience with Chinese generators about 12 years ago, I avoid machinery built there after going through that. Good luck with the grinder. Might check the intake on the air side, some older tools had a odd filter there that could clog.
Yeah will do that Jerry.
It sounds like a dentists drill, but more awesome. I know it varies depending on the rock but how much hole do you average out of one of these bits?
Depends a lot on the rock, for Basalt, Hundreds of meters Granite about 60m, Rhyodacite ~ 30m
The oil you are using might not work with a high speed drill it might be gaming up. If you can flush it out with brake clean and try using atf oil instead. Atf works good on air tools as it clean and lubes at the same time. It's worth a try.
The tool does a good job at sharpening the points.
Ps that is what we use in drilling shot hole in underground tunnels with all the sand well had to deal with in the drill.
Your on the money 61, I always use ATF. I'll clean it out with alcohol and see what gives.
Can ATF damage plastics and seals? It seems I read something about that.
....vs high explosives. U are the coolest dad, next to me.
He, he... thanks for watching!
Dave, good video. Why are there holes in the bottom and side of the heads? For air or water drills?
They are for the flushing air or water that gets all of the stone chips out of the hole fast so you don't waist energy crushing them all to dust.
Очень интересный канал! Крутая работа! 👍👍👍👍
Спасибо за просмотр моих видео.
I saw you had ear plugs in as well. That thing was loud!
Check the inlet side for a sintered brass filter. You may actually have too much oil that is restricting the air flow into the tool motor
That did cross my mind Brennan, but there is no such filter. Pretty sure I have got to the bottom of the issue now but have not tried it out again yet.
Here in Sweden the most economical diameter is 45mm. We usually sharpen the buttons until we are down to almost 32mm hole diameter. They last for ages.
Wow! that is getting your monies worth out of them!
Post some video of your work Pihop.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast th-cam.com/video/1y4chAiDKCk/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/MyWaGlaIBeY/w-d-xo.html
I dont have to many videos but I uploaded a couple at least :)
I've grinded probably tens of thousands of buttons, I've seen those handheld units... you are correct Dave, something has to be wrong with the unit if it has lost that kind of speed after only a handful of uses... would be understandable if you've sharpened 100-150 bits and then lost some speed, but not that soon
Any cobalt related health problems??
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast 😯😬 not that I know of
Good to know ! I hate tool's that let me down and busting concrete or rock is no fun with a dall bit
Nice!!!! ( lube oil may not compatible with seals in tool.....!)
just an idea but how much air was meant to be fed to that thing ? maybe it was to much or something ? or maybe it bogged with oil maybe try cutting the oil supply and see if it clears up
Hi Dave, This is great work kindly share the name of the grinder that i may order one also
It came from Pro Drill in China - www.rock-drill-bits.com/hand-held-button-bit-grinder/hand-held-button-bit-grinder-for-sharpening-bit-carbide.html They are easy to deal with and quite helpful.
Good insight👍, Your tool is waaay over oiled! That’s where your speeds gone, I used to use a high speed air grinder building alloy yachts, too much oil was worse than none. Your big drills/hammers are a very different animal to that prob vane motor, strip it, clean it, few drops too a light smear n she’ll go. 👍🇬🇧👍
Thanks for your insight Sharkeyist.
Dave have you be getting much rain down there we have had 161mm in six days so we are happy
Your ducks would be happy, not much here yet but wet week coming.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast Yes the ducks are very happy but the goats not so much lol.
Make sure the exhaust screen isn't clogged? Great video.
It's not that sadly.
Sure takes a while, but looks like it works pretty darn well (Until it didn't, anyway)! Will be really interesting to see how these compare in use to a new head, and if you can tell any difference in real world cutting ability.
They work great Dan.
Awesome! Even if you can only get one more use out of 'em (that sure looks like it's worn down quite a bit!) fifty bucks is still a darn good return on your time to sharpen those up, I'd think!
Perhaps you could try putting a magnet in the exhaust to see if there’s any metal floating about.
Good idea Kevin.
I think the air motor is for low speed and air pressure. Does is have plastic like vanes?
It looks like you will end up with a slight reduction in the diameter of the hole drilled but I guess the reusability outweighs that impact.
Correct, when selecting a series of drill steels to drill a deep hole you must take care that none of the longer drill steels are larger diameter that the short ones, this would normally done with just a quick glance at the gauge wear, can't do that anymore.
I wonder how long the sharpening bit lasts and thus the cost per bit to re sharpen.
Life of sharpened bit is looking good so far George, cost is cheap.
Interesting, thanks Dave. The grinder head is that diamond or ???
Diamonds.
I've sharpened quite a bit of carbide, and I expect you've got a diamond cone, on that rig. Actually, most of the cost is probably the diamond! If the air drill gives up the ghost, which is dead common for that kind of stuff, you may be able to remove the sharpening cone and chuck it in a drill. Add water, and you're good to go. As for the pneumatic drill, 90% of the problems I've seen with air tools is either too much, or not enough, oil. I do suspect something else, though, because of your familiarity with air tools.
I think I might have found the problem, more investigation on the weekend.
Take care of your Tools, and they'll take care of you when you need them. Very interesting vid. In many ways, you're a hard rock miner. Just wish there was more Gold in it. 👍😅 But the BOOMS make up for it. 😉🥳
Very true! Gold would be good!
Like a reverse countersink bit
Sounds as though the vanes on the motor are about nacked, should not give out after two uses, will the grind head fit any other rotary tools, what rpm's does it need to be efficient?
How would they drill for the fethers and wedges before power drills?
Ah... you would have used a tool called a star chisel made by your local blacksmith and you had to belt it with a hammer while rotating it a little after each hit.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast wonderful! Thankyou for your response. Im a hobby blacksmith, so maby i will try to make one some time.
Is that why some lump hammers you buy at the hardware store called drilling hammers?
Could be Jacob.
Where did you buy this grinder? I'm looking for a cheap one myself.
Xiamen Prodrill - China www.rock-drill-bits.com/hand-held-button-bit-grinder/hand-held-button-bit-grinder-for-sharpening-bit-carbide.html While checking their recently updated add for this product I noticed that they have taken a frame grab from on of my videos for the add.
Hello, great job. Is it possible to provide us with the website link selling this machine?
www.prodrill.com.cn/single.asp?bigclassid=10&sedclassid=143&thdclassid=149&classid=143&infoid=242
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast
Thank you,,
dear, and I have the honor to follow the distinguished channel
I wish you a happy day..👍🏻
Hello, Where did you get the air grinder? whats the deepest hole you Drilled with a plugger drill and what max diameter.
Any thoughts on hydraulic plugger drills? I'm thinking about buying one , it produces it's own air and hooks up to a hydraulic pack. I need to be able to drill at least 5 'though and am uncertain if that will cut it.
Hi Nate, I got the grinder from Prodrill in China - www.prodrillrocktools.com/g200-hand-held-button-bit-grinder-sharpening-bit-carbide. The longest drill steels that I have for the hand drill is 4.5m... but it is always a challenge when going that deep, 5' is a breeze with an air drill even for a beginner it is not too difficult. What make of drill is it? one of those Orange Stanley drills?? I'm thinking that if it makes its own air it may not be very much air and that is a recipe for problems. The drill rods are known as H22 rods - 22mm across the hexagonal flats or 7/8'' hole sizes available from 27 - 50mm.
@Demolition Dave Drilling and Blasting I Like your blasting videos very nicely done . You bust it up good with good control. Nicely done.
The drill I'm getting is a Maruzen dh205 And a maruzen hydraulic pack. It does have an air port to connect an air line as well if needed so that's a good thing. I also just bought a pneumatic sinker 260b plugger which I'm sure she should go over 10' I'm sure. I'm used to drilling on actually old tracks and the new modern style drills like the b.v gardener denvers and atlas copcos rigs and some hoe drills lol. I'm wanting to work for myself so I bought a couple rigs to get me started.Little more labour intensive but a little hard work will never kill ya!!. I like your kobelco drill attachment ! What brand is that?
@Demolition Dave Drilling and Blasting How many feet do you usually get out of a bit? I'm in hard granite country and just curious how bits I will need , I have 94 holes and there 5' , 38mm diameter
Sounds good Nate, the drill mast on the Kobelco is home built by my good friend Mike.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblastthank you very much Mr.
Ck.exhaust probably plugged
9:50 did you oil the machine before each use? It’s probably worn the plastic fins down and possible gouged the bore of the motor. If you oil it and the rpm/power comes back that might be the ticket to know if it’s worn.
The oiler is in view at 9.45
Yes, I made sure that It was served up plenty of oil, ma be I gave it too much.
can you tell what they mean by Chuck Size: 7/8" x 3-1/4" im only familiar with the 1 inch x 4 1/2 inch drill steels.thanks
All of the rods that I use are 7/8 x 4 1/2, this by far the most common in Australia, also known as H22 x 104 (mm).
thank you
Which bits are Best for Rock drilling Sir.
1.integral or 2. small diameter button Bit
.Which bite Hole fast in rock
Button bits with ballistic shape buttons drill granite ~30% faster than Integral chisel bits.
👍👍👍
Hope you're not affected by the terrible floods Sydney is having.
We are all good in Melbourne Andrew, thanks.
"pretty keen on safety"
says guy that uses explosives every day
Hasn't blown himself (or anyone else) up so it must be an accurate statement.
Won't sharpening the buttons make the hole drilled slightly smaller, due to the reground point of the outer buttons being lower & further in?
That is absolutely correct 42.
How long does it take to resharpen? Is it worth the bother?
Only a few min each.
Les time to remove and fit a new head.
어디서 구할수있나요?
www.gmd-eqpt.com/grinding-equipment/cme-button-bit-grinder-australia.html
Tungsten cutter?
Diamond grinding cups.
Copco and Sandvik used a slightly different taper, idk if it was a fuck up or what but it used to drive me nuts, the buttons get pounded in and when the taper finally locks they bind hard. Haha
Oh yeah, what a nightmare, all of mine a 6 degree taper off the center line or 12 degree included angle.. but there are also 7 and 11 that I'm aware of Jack. I shim them with aluminum foil and this helps a lot.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast I heard of copper sleeves for that purpose, come to think about it. Before my time though.
Hey, maybe you can explain what the coating is on the inside of a brand new bit, is that aluminum. Looks like it.
I have also heard of copper shims, but never able to find any, I did obtain some .002 brass shim stock and cut some... they were OK but the material was a bit thick .001 would have been better. I have found that regular Al foil is very good and I heat shrink the the bit on. Maybe I should do a video on this as I'm sure a lot of people have cursed when they fall off and stopped using them when a few simple tricks can overcome most issues.
I think it is a Zinc coating.
Single use disposable Chinesium as per normal, it was probably full of metal fileings before you started (from manufacture) Half speed seems to indicate very very worn out, send it back for another one.
is the exhaust blocked?
Tried that Bruce, unfortunately no.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast
Bugger.
Plenty of oil so it shouldn’t be vanes.
Last place I would look before throwing it is the front bearing getting full of a water grease mix due to leaking seal.
It might need lighter oil . F it's a vane style air motor it needs light oil . Hope this helps
I'm using Dextron ATF (my standard drill oil), I believe it is a vane motor, thanks for your input Mark.
@@demolitiondavedrillandblast might need. Something as light as Diesel . I have a hispeed grinder that uses 2 weight oil .. like water . It does about 50000 rpm .
Looks as if one of the better made air drivers would suit the grinding head. Maybe the water feed would then need attention.
Thanks.
A penny saved is a penny made for the pocketbook 👍 Well can not say for sure on your tool; but I am not sure how dry your incoming air is .. In my air tools even though I have oil injection, moisture will slow mine down after a day use.. I flush them out with alcohol an then oil them ( a little excessive ) an then put them up an next day? They seam to be back running at 100% ... I am not sure if it is the heated dirty oil or the moisture..But I do know from past experience, water will slow the air vanes movement Under centrifugal force from fully seating on the outer cylinder interior wall... I would go ahead an ask the manufacturer but I'm betting my last dollar the air vanes are restricted in movement. I have a couple times had to disassemble an clean a vanes an the of the vane holder... Just my 2 cents worth ;-)
An to others reading this ? Yea I tend to butcher proper terminology of wordings for parts... What can I say ? I'm a very old goat an set in my ways 🤣
Edit ... Also I just remembered something I ran into a few times on some higher End air tools. Check the incoming airport for a fine mesh screen on the unit. You'll have to remove the air hose from the unit take a flashlight and see if there isn't a fine mesh safety screen in there and if it might be partially plugged with something to come out of the airline...🙃
Thanks for your input Joe.
A penny saved is 2 pennies after taxes. Maybe 3 with inflation. ;)
👍👌
I definitely think if it lets you down you should put a magic toilet roll inside of it!💥👍
If only you knew what was inside that roll.
seals may be bypassing
Looks like you can only sharpen them once, then you run out of 'tooth', still better than throwing them away
Depends on how you sharpen them. Additionally, the wear on the carbide is proportional to the distance drilled, so you can spend a lot of time and sweat pounding the stone to dust progressively getting less and less return wearing a giant flat spot on the drill bit, or you can sharpen more often and make bigger chips quicker with less effort.
Hey there, I keep asking around about tungsten carbide because I use to make tooling from it and everywhere i ask even health and safety basically say you have to physically consume about 1 table spoon of the stuff before something happens even with the cobalt as all of our grades had it.... pretty much they said lead is worse and more cancerous unless your working with it non stop then no problem... anyone one else ever asked? I'd like to hear what other places say
Thank Hayden, having been injured by a chemical exposure as a teenager (and still suffering to some extent) I'm a lot more careful these days. The manufactures do have a warning about grinding these buttons so I take heed and do the best I can.
Is it 46 mm?
These bits are 38mm and 35mm.
I look at the gravel, nodded to myself and u def need conc.
Correct. 👍🏻👍🏻
Antha machine rate yavalla sir
Solluga
air handel also air exhaust must keep you cool... Sad it did not last long... maybe you can just find the sharpening tool end and put it on a normal Drill or low speed right angle grinder. I bet its a common thread.
I assume you'll need to downsize your nominal hole diameter for each drill? 38->35, etc... Still smaller if now a more useful shape.
That is correct, you do loose a bit of diameter from wear and sharpening David.
09:48, Probably don't have "thrust bearings" in there, and applying sideways pressure on the shaft bearings will wear out a small bearing in no time. So long as it cost less than the replacement of all the heads you sharpened!
I hope you are wrong Johann...
What is the grinder made of? Wood pecker lips?
Diamond grinding cups.
Please make a video of a sharpening gadget orbiting the Moon.
It has been queued for dispatch if no solution is found...
OK, so I did not know about the nasty effects of heavy metals in cutting bits. Most of the carbide inserts I use just get thrown away when dull, but I do grind some tools like boring bars that have braised carbide tips, using either a white grinding wheel, or more often, a CBN wheel. I have no idea if those tips have cobalt in them, but I will be trying to find out. Interesting what you said about cheap Chinese tools. Earlier today I watched a JPayDirt video where Jeff Anderson is working on a Peterbuilt truck and trying to track down a decent oil pump for its Cummings engine. Everything seems to come from China, and is well out of spec. th-cam.com/video/o50-2jnVO7M/w-d-xo.html
I have a LOT of Chinese tools, some of which are OK, and some not so great, but by heck they are cheap. I'm at least as well equipped now in my retirement that when I worked at Ford Product Development (UK), and the bottom line is that I simply wouldn't have all those tools if I had to pay the price of Starrett or More & Wright, or Mitutoyo or Brown & Sharp etc.
I hear you Trevor, some are so cheap that they could even be single use and that's viable (but obscene).
I just hope they don’t start getting stuck in the hole on you! After sharpening it looks like the diameter of the hole will be a little bit smaller.
If you had a 3 foot diameter dead tree that you wanted to blow up using black powder how much would you guess it would take? I have several acres of property and several dead trees. To dangerous to cut! I thought maybe I could drill a hole in them and blast them. I wish I could barrow you for a bit. Lol
Hi Rob, black powder will do the job, provided that it is tightly confined, the secret is getting the load down under the middle of the stump, you would need a few Kilograms.
Beware that despite the common opinion that black powder is safe to work with, nothing is further from the truth. Black powder is very spark sensitive and the tiniest static electricity spark could really spoil you day.
Evrey cent counts nowdays, too bad that some/ most Chinese tools need service in few hours of use.
I use diamond wheel for sharpening the SDS widia drills and get a ton more life and speed out of them, specially in rebar reinforced concrete.
IT CHINESE, WHAT DID YOU EXPECT 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Reminds me of the dentist
Remind me not to go to your dentist!
she's cactus!
LOL cheap Chinesium, it did a good job, you got some sharpening done before it crapped the bed.
How people think about risk and danger is a funny thing. I'm guessing that a fair number of the things you use PPE for are harmless to someone just walking past as you work, but standing next to it for years on end can make even relatively innocuous stuff into a real problem. And yet if anything the natural inclination is reversed: people will leave the neighborhood to avoid a one time exposure and others will work in that field for years without any PPE. The less common a risk is, the easier it is for people to stay worried about it.
I hear you Benjamin, I think many people are scared about new potential hazards while missing the boat on very real every day risks. I have spent too much time discussing the supposed hazards of 5G mobile networks with many concerned folk. I have a background in radio comms and a lot of experience working in high level non ionizing radiation fields, and related training for radiation safety for such. I reason this way, many folk agitate about the possible exposure hazard of 5G and cancer while at the same time happily exposing them selves to an extremely high level broad band radiation source that causes problems that kill millions every year. That radiation source is the Sun.
Please
Sounds a bit stuffed :(