I didn't notice much of a noise other than the noisy motor (ticking) which is somewhat common in these cars. When I replaced the sensor, it didnt seem to change anything other than the check engine light
Build Brothers I’m asking because my car is making a serious ticking sound at idle when the car is warmed up, and when you drive the car as you’re accelerating the ticking noise is there
@@itaminokamigaming yes. So I changed out the sensor to the one cylinder that the mds code was staying on for and it went away. So apparently I received 2/4 faulty doorman mds solenoids which is still unbelievable to me
Did you clear the code with a code reader? I would clear the code and then drive it around and pull codes again. If it was a bad sensor, it wont report bad. For me, it was actually a cut wire. I replaced the sensor and then found a bad wire in the harness.
I unhooked the battery for like 5 mins to clear the code. Think i should use a computer to clear the code? Still getting backfires aling with the code.
I had to clear the codes with my reader to have them actually clear - some of them dropped with the battery off but I do recall having to clear them for others. If it doesnt clear, or it comes back, it is possibly the wiring pr a separate issue
Can someone please help me find the crank position sensor and cam position sensor on my 2014 Ford Mustang v6 3.7? This would be amazing. Thank you.
Please put any/all 3v 4.6 vids you got thanks just picked up an 07 gt with rebuilt inside
Where is this on a 2018 mustang gt?
What year is your car ?
What kind of noises did your car make?
I didn't notice much of a noise other than the noisy motor (ticking) which is somewhat common in these cars.
When I replaced the sensor, it didnt seem to change anything other than the check engine light
Build Brothers I’m asking because my car is making a serious ticking sound at idle when the car is warmed up, and when you drive the car as you’re accelerating the ticking noise is there
@@josephkrause5290 do you have any CELs?
@@josephkrause5290 that’s exactly what mines doing did you fix it?
@@itaminokamigaming yes. So I changed out the sensor to the one cylinder that the mds code was staying on for and it went away. So apparently I received 2/4 faulty doorman mds solenoids which is still unbelievable to me
Was that bank 2?
Yes it’s bank 2
Was your car loosing power?
I wasn’t driving it at this point because this was pre-inspection - before it was legal to drive again
My car is losing power!
TheMustangStampede Any ideas? mine loses power too, someone has told me that i should try changing timing chain sprockets.
@@mosescoronado8251 might be a bad alternator
I replaced the passenger side sensor. Code is still being thrown, any ideas?
Did you clear the code with a code reader?
I would clear the code and then drive it around and pull codes again.
If it was a bad sensor, it wont report bad.
For me, it was actually a cut wire.
I replaced the sensor and then found a bad wire in the harness.
I unhooked the battery for like 5 mins to clear the code. Think i should use a computer to clear the code? Still getting backfires aling with the code.
I had to clear the codes with my reader to have them actually clear - some of them dropped with the battery off but I do recall having to clear them for others.
If it doesnt clear, or it comes back, it is possibly the wiring pr a separate issue
Bad alteenator. thanks for the help though
Glad you got it figured out