So I got a set of Hamilton pushrods and noticed they are longer than stock, so would I have to take the head off and check valve depth? Or do I just have to reset the valve lash for them to work?
I'm finally doing my valve springs and push rods and Billet valve spring bridges this weekend :) Watching your video 3-4 times so I can do mine without any problems :)
Also I love your Ying/Yang on your hands :) I need something like that to keep me leveled out ... I know how you feel always fighting your self . I used to bodybuild before the Leukemia and that leveled me out . Since I can't do that I now work on my truck alot to keep Mr Hide under control LOL
Hello first of all. i must say your doing a very good job in explaining, how too install the work on your.Truck i wish i had the time to do this to my.Truck Im a professional Truck Driver.Time is short for me . so i like to say keep up the good work.i will ,keep watching wish you lived closed to .me to help me with my Truck. keep the installs coming . Be Bless.
Great video and nice work! I am sure You're glad to be done with this upgrade. I know it's a lot of work and it helps to be patient.Thanks for sharing...
You don't need new injectors unless they're bad. You can upgrade the nozzles for more fuel. Only takes a 15mm socket to replace a nozzle. Look up optimal welder, he shows you how.
I hear ya. average life on the electronics of stock injectors is 200k miles Im close to 150k so id rather save up and do the full injectors. thanks for watching.
@@j.j.sgarage1457Super late on this reply, but if you remember JJ, how or when did you get the parts on sale? Labor Day or Memorial Day kind of thing?
Now that they have been on for a while how do they work ? Because I just did Compounds on my 2008 Ram 3500 Dually and I need valve springs and push rods to help the power of the compounds. Thats why I'm asking if they work good ?
Great job with the video. I can tell you’ve watched similar videos yourself. You knew exactly when to FF and when to slow down & throw in a helpful tip. Thanks again. PS: there’s a steel valve spring tool which sucks when trying to take out the keepers with a magnet. Ask me how I know.......
Great write up. Did head studs myself and wouldn’t have realized I needed to change the crush washer on the injectors. Great info. Have you read the Glacier diesel/ARP prestretch torque sequence? Saves you from having to retorque the studs after a heat cycle.
Prestrech is not needed, on studs. The three step torque process ensures the studs are fully seated. If the studs are .001 stretched they're supposed to be discarded. Arp also will tell you no hot retorques.
*help* Please explain to me how you got #5 exhaust so easy I’ve been trying for days please help I know about the plugs I have these same pushrods and the diameter is what is causing the issue I think it’s half in won’t clear in the groomet hole
Ok I installed my valve springs and everything went real good. The truck started right up ran a little and I shut it off. Then started it again and it started and then stalled . Do you have any idea what could be wrong ? I have no error codes . I’m stumped ?
Did you do valve lash? What’s the fuel pressure? Let the fuel system prime a few times by turning the key on without starting it. Then try to start it.
Yes its says run for 20mims then re-torque. Im glad i did cause i got movement on most of them. They are holding up good. I have done 2 oil changes and drained the coolant to install the bypass and they are no signs of failure.
I’d say 700hp or more, 50psi + boost, if you are running and aftermarket cam and/or pushing the rev limiter to 4000rpms or more. If you plan on doing any of that i would go ahead and upgrade springs and rods while you are in there doing studs.
I love the way you explained, you make it looks so easy that I feel I can do it too. 😂😂😂😂😂😂🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️
Well done took your time to explain everything 👍😎🇺🇸
Like your attention to detail!! Very good young man!!
Yes thanks for explaining so that we all understand . Your a good guy for us people who need to do DIY .
Glad to help!
Dude that was a great video. I wish you would have showed Retourque of headstuds and rockers but man great video. Thanks!!!!!
Just started my valve springs Finally !! I post the video when done :) Thanks for all your help Bro :)
Great job man like the way you explain every detail 👍
I appreciate that!
I'm almost ready I'm waiting for my billet valve spring bridges and just got my topside creeper so I can work from the topside .
Nice! I don’t even have one of those yet but I hear they are worth it!
Just so you know I'm mentioning you in my youtube videos for all the help you gave me Thanks !!!
So I got a set of Hamilton pushrods and noticed they are longer than stock, so would I have to take the head off and check valve depth? Or do I just have to reset the valve lash for them to work?
I'm finally doing my valve springs and push rods and Billet valve spring bridges this weekend :) Watching your video 3-4 times so I can do mine without any problems :)
I hope everything goes well.
Also I love your Ying/Yang on your hands :) I need something like that to keep me leveled out ... I know how you feel always fighting your self . I used to bodybuild before the Leukemia and that leveled me out . Since I can't do that I now work on my truck alot to keep Mr Hide under control LOL
See you inspire me you used a nut and pry bar to remove the fuel injector feed tubes ! That was awesome Bro !!
Right on! Thanks bro!
Nice job explaining things in this video
Thanks for watching!
Hello first of all. i must say your doing a very good job in explaining, how too install the work on your.Truck i wish i had the time
to do this to my.Truck Im a professional Truck Driver.Time is short for me . so i like to say keep up the good work.i will ,keep
watching wish you lived closed to .me to help me with my Truck. keep the installs coming . Be Bless.
I would help you too. I don't mind. Thank you for the compliment and blessings. Stay safe on the road.
There is a full set of injectors that are 125 hp for $800. There are ducky injectors! Great injectors!
Great video and nice work! I am sure You're glad to be done with this upgrade. I know it's a lot of work and it helps to be patient.Thanks for sharing...
Thanks for watching. I really appreciate it!
@@j.j.sgarage1457 Great Job on the Cummins! Keep up the good work! 👍
You don't need new injectors unless they're bad. You can upgrade the nozzles for more fuel. Only takes a 15mm socket to replace a nozzle. Look up optimal welder, he shows you how.
I hear ya. average life on the electronics of stock injectors is 200k miles Im close to 150k so id rather save up and do the full injectors. thanks for watching.
Good video my dude
Just discovered your channel and i love it! Keep up the good work! You have almost made me want to do that to my truck but I still don’t haha
Lol Thanks. I was the same way then the parts were on sale so I couldn’t resist.
@@j.j.sgarage1457Super late on this reply, but if you remember JJ, how or when did you get the parts on sale? Labor Day or Memorial Day kind of thing?
Now that they have been on for a while how do they work ? Because I just did Compounds on my 2008 Ram 3500 Dually and I need valve springs and push rods to help the power of the compounds. Thats why I'm asking if they work good ?
They are doing fine and will be great insurance for your compounds!!
Great job with the video. I can tell you’ve watched similar videos yourself. You knew exactly when to FF and when to slow down & throw in a helpful tip. Thanks again. PS: there’s a steel valve spring tool which sucks when trying to take out the keepers with a magnet. Ask me how I know.......
lol I could only imagine trying to fight the magnet using a steel spring tool. Thanks for watching!
Great write up. Did head studs myself and wouldn’t have realized I needed to change the crush washer on the injectors. Great info. Have you read the Glacier diesel/ARP prestretch torque sequence? Saves you from having to retorque the studs after a heat cycle.
I have not. I'll check it out. Thanks!
Prestrech is not needed, on studs. The three step torque process ensures the studs are fully seated. If the studs are .001 stretched they're supposed to be discarded. Arp also will tell you no hot retorques.
Also the head studs are installed incorrectly in this video as well, the exhaust studs are supposed to be longer than the rest.
How does these run on your Cummins I'm thinking of buying them ? Do I need new retainers and keepers or do I use the old ones ?
More of an added insurance for when I introduce more power!
Does it run better ?
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!
Appreciate that!
*help* Please explain to me how you got #5 exhaust so easy I’ve been trying for days please help I know about the plugs I have these same pushrods and the diameter is what is causing the issue I think it’s half in won’t clear in the groomet hole
Sorry for the late reply. I hope you figured it out!
Does it run better with the new springs and pushrods ?
It runs great! idk about better since I am not pushing any real power yet.
Should I put them in if I’m running a second gen swap?
It all depends on your ultimate goal/power. If that is all you have I wouldn’t upgrade unless you were replacing the parts anyway.
Ok I installed my valve springs and everything went real good. The truck started right up ran a little and I shut it off. Then started it again and it started and then stalled . Do you have any idea what could be wrong ? I have no error codes . I’m stumped ?
Did you do valve lash? What’s the fuel pressure? Let the fuel system prime a few times by turning the key on without starting it. Then try to start it.
Other than that you gonna have to backtrack everything you touched and unplugged.
Yep had a sensor unplugged lol
Haha! Happens to all of us. Glad you got it figured out!
That's a lot of work bro. I couldn't do that install myself haha.
I'm just glad its done at this point. lol
Does the directions even say to re torque them?
How they holding up so far
Yes its says run for 20mims then re-torque. Im glad i did cause i got movement on most of them. They are holding up good. I have done 2 oil changes and drained the coolant to install the bypass and they are no signs of failure.
J.J.’s Garage What are you supposed to re-torque? Great video by the way
We need CLEAR valve covers!!! 😂
Bro How long in hours did it take you to change the valve springs ? I'm about to do mine I have all the parts in :)
3-4 start to finish...
The fuel connectors final is 41ft lbs , great video though
Thanks for watching!
Why would I need to upgrade the rods and springs?
I’d say 700hp or more, 50psi + boost, if you are running and aftermarket cam and/or pushing the rev limiter to 4000rpms or more. If you plan on doing any of that i would go ahead and upgrade springs and rods while you are in there doing studs.
So much easier to pull the whole fuel rail and less likely to introduce contamination in the system.
What year ? 5.9 or 6.7?
07 5.9
Bro you know you put the studs in wrong. The taller ones are supposed run down the exhaust manifold side
I appreciate the concern. All IFG studs that I received were the same length. I measured all of them to be sure.
I hate the stupid rocker arms they keep going out of speck and sending sparkles though my oil because their a two piece
Hamilton springs are junk just had a valve kiss a piston going with manton now
appreciate the heads up. how much power?
J.J.’s Garage 600hp
You're probably going around 5k, I'd explain why Hamilton is top notch but you already got your mind made up
@@noxdout_cummins4247Right? Like literally EVERYBODY runs Hamilton, they have an amazing track record.