Great video Ryan. You have what it takes to overcome problems. Also your videos have that certain ingredient that makes the viewer watch them all the way through. Thanks for posting this video
Hi Ryan With all the work you’ve done and parts you have replaced it’s strange that you still have a near zero compression still in that same barrel…what you’ve done so far looks spot on … what you’ve got to look at is the problem is still there .. even though you’ve replaced base / head gaskets ect ..at the end of the day the engine is leaking compression be it via the valves / pistons / gaskets .. when I do car heads I normally get them compression tested and the head skimmed … as you don’t know the history of this engine it may well have over heated and warped the head allowing a gap for compression to leak or there could be a crack in the head or block ..some where .. keep going Ryan I’m sure your find the problem 10 out 10 for determination 👍
when putting barrels back on you only have to lube up barrels and pistons with engine oil and they will just slip back on the barrels designed to do that you dont need spring compressors on bikes hardly ever the trick is to keep it level at all times and make sure rods stay at top easy peasy .
Great open minded rebuild and learning as you go, great positive attitude , by the way I have been binge watching , I’m in isolation through the virus and it’s a big Thankyou for entertaining and inspiring as I rest up 👍👍
See that the skirts of the liners have a taper to aid sticking the piston in, was thinking car popping them in from the top with the ring compressors. I'm watching at 13mins.
Ryan. Your doing a great job mate. I wait with baited breath each week for your video to come out. Once you get it all finished and up and running , you’ll be looking for your next bike project …trust me 👍👍👍😀. All the best ,Dave
Reading comments the ring spacing around the piston is critical.Felt pen and dab 3 dots at 120 degrees roughly. on the oil control ring make sure that the 2 gaps are in the same position if that makes sense mimicking the old solid type one. again as per other comments timing and tappet gaps.
Hi Alan, I honestly put the rings in and simply rotated the piston so the gaps where on opposing sides. I may regret that and need to remove and rotate them again to be sure, although I'm planning on checking the head before the pistons.
That camshaft looks worn?? What do you think? Did you check the piston ring gaps?? Check for bent valves..double check valve clearances!!!or broken piston rings on assembly....
Hi Matthew, I had checked the Piston Ring Gaps and bent valves previously, there is signs of wear on the camshaft, which I might possibly change out at a later date. I have worked on the engine over the weekend, and I'm uploading that video now, so it will be live in an hour or so... Thanks Ryan
OK, cool, I had one of these for years, rebuilt the engine ,when cam chain was knackered, its a crankshaft out to change it properly. It never let me down, apart from a broken throttle cable, my fault, the rear brake cam needs constant servicing during winter ,it siezes up...
if your doing the carbs , the haynes manual has the primary and main jets description arrows the wrong way round . i have found many mistakes in these manuals , dosent help the new builder :-/and the cylinder studs are different lengths , you will know if you have them wrong inner are shorter than the outer .
will be interesting to see why the compression test is so different each side... think I would start with taking the head off again, turn it upside down, pour petrol in the combustion bowls and see if there's any leak back.... Nice try with the coke bottle ring clamp, interestingly Husqvarna makes plastic ring clamps for their chainsaw engines....although they are much thicker than a coke bottle.
Hi, Thanks for your comment. I agree that testing the head is a logical step as it's likely to be the cause, I'm just going to try a couple of simple tests first before I do that (although none of my tests would correct the problem, so I'm almost certainly going to have to remove the head one way or another)
further thought, the compression readings are virtually unchanged from your test before strip down yet you've made changes that should improve the compression. when you did the thumb test on the spark plug holes, was there a difference you could feel? 90psi on one side and less than 10 psi on the other should surely be detectable with the thumb test shouldn't it? could it be that the compression tool and thus the spark plug doesn't sit properly in the thread because of a small obstruction at the top of the thread, so the seal is not right?
Hi Tim, yes there was a noticeably different pressure when I placed my thumb over the spark plug hole (unfortunately). I'm expecting to get time again on Saturday to get to the bottom of what's going on.
looks like youve done everything right with the assembly ( did you put the pointed bolt in the back of the head that hold the cam chain adjuster ?) other than that it all looks great you checked the head did the rings so everything in theory should be fine, timing is correct (easier than it looks in the manual) double check the tappets after the first start is the only advice i have.
Thanks mate, I did fit the pointed bolt just missed filming it. I'm going to test again and if I don't get compression on left side , I'm thinking I should lift off the head a check the valves are sealing after I've changed the oil seals. Hope it will be sorted soon. 🙏
@@RyansGarageUK I'm thinking it has to be valve related - you found the rings were past service limits and fixed it - you found the valves weren't sealing and fixed it, there was no evidence we saw in the video of a blown head gasket, so surely the only thing left is the actuation/sealing of the valves
A bit frustrating after all that work. I'm I correct in thinking that was the same cylinder that had low compression before.? Did you stagger the ring gaps on the pistons? Jubilee clips can make good ring compressors , just cover the rings themselves and not the sides of the piston above. That part of the piston guides everything in. Also while you are spinning it over on the bench check for good oil flow to the top end. Good luck.
Thanks Colin, I did stagger the rings when I put them on so I'll be surprised if it's that, you're correct it was the same side with no compression before so maybe I'm overlooking an issue. If I need to remove the pistons again, I'll get some jubilee clips for the next attempt.
what a disappointment Ryan! I'm no expert and I've been going over in my mind what you did and I don't think you did anything wrong. Could there be a tiny hole in the piston itself or could there be a weak valve spring that (even though it does close), doesn't quite close quickly enough? I'm just guessing so hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will come along and point you in the right direction. Keep it up, I always look forward to seeing your work.
Hi Tim, I'm confident there is no hole in the piston, although the valves are a potential cause. I'm now thinking I didn't retest them after changing the oil seals, so maybe I've got something wrong.
Hi Lewis, yes I did although maybe I did something wrong (or not well enough), I now realize I failed to retest the valves for leakage after I changed the oil seals. I may need to remove the head and check them again.
@@RyansGarageUK I would do that, when I'm lapping valves I use a course then a fine paste. And to check I just hold the valve down and put a bit of petrol in to see if it leaks, easiest way to check. And I would lap the exhaust valves to
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Great video Ryan. You have what it takes to overcome problems. Also your videos have that certain ingredient that makes the viewer watch them all the way through. Thanks for posting this video
Hi Steven, thank you for your feedback. I appreciate it. Ryan.
Super video, I might well be doing the same thing myself soon so thank you for showing me what I’m up against. 👍
Glad this may of been some help. Good luck with your build.
Hi Ryan
With all the work you’ve done and parts you have replaced it’s strange that you still have a near zero compression still in that same barrel…what you’ve done so far looks spot on … what you’ve got to look at is the problem is still there .. even though you’ve replaced base / head gaskets ect ..at the end of the day the engine is leaking compression be it via the valves / pistons / gaskets .. when I do car heads I normally get them compression tested and the head skimmed … as you don’t know the history of this engine it may well have over heated and warped the head allowing a gap for compression to leak or there could be a crack in the head or block ..some where .. keep going Ryan I’m sure your find the problem 10 out 10 for determination 👍
Thanks Richard, I'm sure I'll find the issue somehow. I wanted to learn, so I guess I should be grateful. 👍🏻
the force is with you Ryan😜
Thanks Richard. I wish that was true.😀
when putting barrels back on you only have to lube up barrels and pistons with engine oil and they will just slip back on the barrels designed to do that you dont need spring compressors on bikes hardly ever the trick is to keep it level at all times and make sure rods stay at top easy peasy .
Thanks for the tip
Great open minded rebuild and learning as you go, great positive attitude , by the way I have been binge watching , I’m in isolation through the virus and it’s a big Thankyou for entertaining and inspiring as I rest up 👍👍
I hope you get better soon, and you can leave isolation in the near future. I appreciate your comments. Ryan.
See that the skirts of the liners have a taper to aid sticking the piston in, was thinking car popping them in from the top with the ring compressors. I'm watching at 13mins.
i dropped one in the bottom once but was lucky to turn it upside down and it fell out, but was good reassemble experience
Clearly I was very lucky, didn't need to open the crack case.
Ryan. Your doing a great job mate. I wait with baited breath each week for your video to come out. Once you get it all finished and up and running , you’ll be looking for your next bike project …trust me 👍👍👍😀. All the best ,Dave
Thanks very much Dave, I hope you're right. 😀
Reading comments the ring spacing around the piston is critical.Felt pen and dab 3 dots at 120 degrees roughly. on the oil control ring make sure that the 2 gaps are in the same position if that makes sense mimicking the old solid type one. again as per other comments timing and tappet gaps.
Hi Alan, I honestly put the rings in and simply rotated the piston so the gaps where on opposing sides. I may regret that and need to remove and rotate them again to be sure, although I'm planning on checking the head before the pistons.
@@RyansGarageUK possibility its has a crack?
That camshaft looks worn?? What do you think? Did you check the piston ring gaps?? Check for bent valves..double check valve clearances!!!or broken piston rings on assembly....
Hi Matthew, I had checked the Piston Ring Gaps and bent valves previously, there is signs of wear on the camshaft, which I might possibly change out at a later date. I have worked on the engine over the weekend, and I'm uploading that video now, so it will be live in an hour or so... Thanks Ryan
OK, cool, I had one of these for years, rebuilt the engine ,when cam chain was knackered, its a crankshaft out to change it properly. It never let me down, apart from a broken throttle cable, my fault, the rear brake cam needs constant servicing during winter ,it siezes up...
if your doing the carbs , the haynes manual has the primary and main jets description arrows the wrong way round . i have found many mistakes in these manuals , dosent help the new builder :-/and the cylinder studs are different lengths , you will know if you have them wrong inner are shorter than the outer .
Hi, Thank you. I have now learnt the hard way how to rebuild the carbs, although it did take me a few attempts.
Keep going, your getting there, great content
Thank you, your support is appreciated.
Before stripping it double check the valve rocker gaps and cam timing.
Thanks Chris, will do.
Yeh boost the battery up should help. still great content.
I agree, as a flat battery is helping no-one.
will be interesting to see why the compression test is so different each side... think I would start with taking the head off again, turn it upside down, pour petrol in the combustion bowls and see if there's any leak back....
Nice try with the coke bottle ring clamp, interestingly Husqvarna makes plastic ring clamps for their chainsaw engines....although they are much thicker than a coke bottle.
Hi, Thanks for your comment. I agree that testing the head is a logical step as it's likely to be the cause, I'm just going to try a couple of simple tests first before I do that (although none of my tests would correct the problem, so I'm almost certainly going to have to remove the head one way or another)
further thought, the compression readings are virtually unchanged from your test before strip down yet you've made changes that should improve the compression. when you did the thumb test on the spark plug holes, was there a difference you could feel? 90psi on one side and less than 10 psi on the other should surely be detectable with the thumb test shouldn't it? could it be that the compression tool and thus the spark plug doesn't sit properly in the thread because of a small obstruction at the top of the thread, so the seal is not right?
Hi Tim, yes there was a noticeably different pressure when I placed my thumb over the spark plug hole (unfortunately). I'm expecting to get time again on Saturday to get to the bottom of what's going on.
looks like youve done everything right with the assembly ( did you put the pointed bolt in the back of the head that hold the cam chain adjuster ?) other than that it all looks great you checked the head did the rings so everything in theory should be fine, timing is correct (easier than it looks in the manual) double check the tappets after the first start is the only advice i have.
Thanks mate, I did fit the pointed bolt just missed filming it. I'm going to test again and if I don't get compression on left side , I'm thinking I should lift off the head a check the valves are sealing after I've changed the oil seals. Hope it will be sorted soon. 🙏
@@RyansGarageUK I'm thinking it has to be valve related - you found the rings were past service limits and fixed it - you found the valves weren't sealing and fixed it, there was no evidence we saw in the video of a blown head gasket, so surely the only thing left is the actuation/sealing of the valves
A bit frustrating after all that work. I'm I correct in thinking that was the same cylinder that had low compression before.? Did you stagger the ring gaps on the pistons? Jubilee clips can make good ring compressors , just cover the rings themselves and not the sides of the piston above. That part of the piston guides everything in. Also while you are spinning it over on the bench check for good oil flow to the top end. Good luck.
Thanks Colin, I did stagger the rings when I put them on so I'll be surprised if it's that, you're correct it was the same side with no compression before so maybe I'm overlooking an issue. If I need to remove the pistons again, I'll get some jubilee clips for the next attempt.
@@RyansGarageUK you could try a leak down test. That would point towards where all the compression is going without pulling the engine apart again.
Unfortunately I don't have a compressor at the moment, so I may have to try a few manual tests first.
what a disappointment Ryan! I'm no expert and I've been going over in my mind what you did and I don't think you did anything wrong. Could there be a tiny hole in the piston itself or could there be a weak valve spring that (even though it does close), doesn't quite close quickly enough? I'm just guessing so hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will come along and point you in the right direction. Keep it up, I always look forward to seeing your work.
Hi Tim, I'm confident there is no hole in the piston, although the valves are a potential cause. I'm now thinking I didn't retest them after changing the oil seals, so maybe I've got something wrong.
Hi ya could you tell me if I can use a cm125 engine in my superdream
Hi Michael, I am sorry I have no personal knowledge of the CM125 engine, so I do not know. Ryan
@RyansGarageUK cheers buddy I can't seem to find the answer anywhere I look I think iam just going to have to fit it and try to get it running
send me more i would lie to learn to be an expert
There are many more on this channel. :)
Did you lap in the valves when you rebuilt the head ?
Hi Lewis, yes I did although maybe I did something wrong (or not well enough), I now realize I failed to retest the valves for leakage after I changed the oil seals. I may need to remove the head and check them again.
@@RyansGarageUK I would do that, when I'm lapping valves I use a course then a fine paste. And to check I just hold the valve down and put a bit of petrol in to see if it leaks, easiest way to check. And I would lap the exhaust valves to
Nice job it not an easy task this
Thanks, I did think it wouldn't be quite this frustrating. but I'll get there.
Your get there