Thanks a ton for making the video so elaborate. I was able to get all the way to intake plenum so far on my 2002 Xterra Supercharged. The fuel rail and last injector on back right is the toughest, I was literally kneeling on top of the engine bay! I made detailed notes and took a lot of pictures...hope it will all go back the same way & fires up! The new Milwaukee 3/8 variable speed power wrench made it super efficient. :)
The Car Doctor | AB Auto Sales Thanks, everything came out, removed knock sensor (P0328 code) and cleaned it all up. It goes back in today and I'm already scared of that fuel rail and 6th injector. :) What did you use to clean these things...? Simple green didnt do the best job on the grime. Thanks!
The Car Doctor | AB Auto Sales Thank you. I'll get this for future work, next time I get this far, I'll replace all the fuel injectors and maybe even the fuel rail/pressure regulator. The hoses are hard to source, but that would be good as well. I have a tip for others, the 6th injector is very painful, so I used super penetrant oil spray lightly on it, unscrewed it, rotated (take time, be easy, its plastic), clipped it and rotated back in position. The fuel pressure regulator is a bit easier to place if the hoses attached to it are pressed first down and one 10mm bolt behind the air intake to supercharger from air filter is removed, so the air side can be pulled/forced up a bit and fuel regulator pushed down! Anyway, I managed to get everything back together today, it sputtered first and stalled, then started throwing a lot of white smoke, idles good, after warming, it runs a lot better and the engine light is gone. I also used mass air charge cleaner spray and cleaned the sensor, which was my other code (P0127). It was an amazing experience doing this, I know so much more about the car I have had for 8 years! It is well worth the pain to get a 4x4, manual transmission, supercharged Xterra running well as it has been very reliable. The torque from the Eaton root supercharger is 231 lb-ft @ 2,800 RPM, which is always fun with the manual shift! :)
Thanks for this. Makes a tough job to tackle easier for a DIYer. Is it feasible to disable the bypass valve on the roots blower using a cabin mounted switch? I'm thinking for attaining boost without a wide open throttle as implemented in the original design to improve fuel efficiency? I was thinking for short term off-road when more torque is needed but with more subtle throttle movement.
Yes true for a replacement. Let me clarify, my method is a bypass as opposed to a replacement for the knock sensor. true if you want to actually replace a bad sensor with a functioning knock sensor this is the only way to do it even on a normally aspirated version you would have to remove the manifold. but as us off roaders and guys who beat the hell out of our vg33 have found, the knock sensor is completely useless and a poor design mounted too closely on the high vibration motor it causes more harm and problems than any good that it was ever designed to do. if you need the knock sensor on your supercharged version then yes this is the best method. that being said The Supercharged version puts out a light boost and has slightly less compression due to the supercharger. it is more likely to send a false signal then notify you of something wrong if you have low boost. If you have low boost in your engine starts knocking you will definitely notice it no need for a knock sensor. These are great engines however that knock sensor placement was a total screw-up on Nissan's part. Hope this information helps , good video for someone who actually wants to replace the knock sensor. But my advice is to bypass it altogether that way you won't have to keep going back and replacing it... which you will have to do especially on an after-market knock sensor like a Pep Boys AutoZone or any Chinese made parts store knock sensor.
Great video! After getting everything put back together. The supercharger is making a knocking noice toward the rear next to the fire wall. All the vaccum hoses are connected properly. I don't believe any foreign objects found it's way in there. Notice it more when the engine warms up. Any ideas?
bout to do this to my 01 sc frontier. it looks all about the same. if u know, is it? and can this be done by a first timer or should i have some help for someone with some experience. i ask cause u make it look easy. maybe a stupid question. and are u labeling parts or u done this enough to know were every thing goes. great video though man. been looking for something like this for the last couple weeks surprised i hadn't came across ed it before.
Yeah they are exactly the same. It can be done by a first timer with no problems, just take your time and be patient. It was my first time changing the knock sensor on one of these engines, so it was a learning experience for me too. Everything came out great, and the truck passed emissions!
Cool man probably gona tackle it this weekend hope it gose smoothly. Might be hitting u up again. And again thanks for posting these videos gona save me a ton of money and gona learn something. Awsome stuff
I have a question, I know this video has nothing to do with suspension components, but I own a 2002 Nissan Xterra, 3.3 L not supercharged 2WD, and am trying to find out polyurethane suspension components, if you can help me out to find out if you know anything about, please help me out, thanks in advance...👍❗
bro this damn fuel rail in the back right corner i cant get it out from under those aluminum pipes did u diconect anyting else or just fight it out. i kinda bent the rail up front tugging on it not crimped completely but geez its a pain.
I've done the naturally aspirated engine knock sensor and it did suck! I'm thinking about getting a super charged x soon and I'm sure I'll have to replace the knock sensor. Do you think it's worth putting the knock sensor somewhere else on the block?
Dude this is made way more complicated than it has to be! Get a knock sensor off an old Maxima in a junkyard for about $5 the Maxima's are easy to access because the transversely mounted motor you can pull it out easily without removing intake manifold. next you mount it on top of your motor or anywhere you want as long as it's away from the motor I mounted mine on top of the manifold , next you trace the wires from your knock sensor splice them and add new wires with the plug you got from the junkyard connected to your new knock sensor on the top of the engine. Donne and done! You leave the factory knock sensor where it is, it's disconnected and won't interfere with the motor because you have the new knock sensor on top sending the signal to the ECU. shouldn't take more than 20 30 minutes tops.
This is the only way to do it on a supercharged version. You do not want to RISK not detecting knock. On a naturally aspirated version, Your version works just fine without problems.
I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier Naturally Aspirated I'm pretty sure my knock sensor has gone bad, so by doing the knock sensor relocation to the top of the of the intake manifold is fine, why is this okay with the NA engine but not the supercharged engine?
Great job man! Thank you so much for uploading this!
✌️ I'm James . On the 02 supercharged Xterra , how many and what gaskets do I replace when changing knock sensor ?
Thanks a ton for making the video so elaborate. I was able to get all the way to intake plenum so far on my 2002 Xterra Supercharged. The fuel rail and last injector on back right is the toughest, I was literally kneeling on top of the engine bay! I made detailed notes and took a lot of pictures...hope it will all go back the same way & fires up! The new Milwaukee 3/8 variable speed power wrench made it super efficient. :)
Yeah, that was the most difficult part for me too but it was worth it to not have to remove a bunch of other stuff.
The Car Doctor | AB Auto Sales Thanks, everything came out, removed knock sensor (P0328 code) and cleaned it all up. It goes back in today and I'm already scared of that fuel rail and 6th injector. :) What did you use to clean these things...? Simple green didnt do the best job on the grime. Thanks!
I used "Awesome" degreaser...
The Car Doctor | AB Auto Sales Thank you. I'll get this for future work, next time I get this far, I'll replace all the fuel injectors and maybe even the fuel rail/pressure regulator. The hoses are hard to source, but that would be good as well.
I have a tip for others, the 6th injector is very painful, so I used super penetrant oil spray lightly on it, unscrewed it, rotated (take time, be easy, its plastic), clipped it and rotated back in position. The fuel pressure regulator is a bit easier to place if the hoses attached to it are pressed first down and one 10mm bolt behind the air intake to supercharger from air filter is removed, so the air side can be pulled/forced up a bit and fuel regulator pushed down!
Anyway, I managed to get everything back together today, it sputtered first and stalled, then started throwing a lot of white smoke, idles good, after warming, it runs a lot better and the engine light is gone. I also used mass air charge cleaner spray and cleaned the sensor, which was my other code (P0127). It was an amazing experience doing this, I know so much more about the car I have had for 8 years!
It is well worth the pain to get a 4x4, manual transmission, supercharged Xterra running well as it has been very reliable. The torque from the Eaton root supercharger is 231 lb-ft @ 2,800 RPM, which is always fun with the manual shift! :)
Here's an easier as well as a faster way to replace a knock sensor: th-cam.com/video/4cElUCmLEKE/w-d-xo.html
Do you have to replace the gaskets or can you reuse them.
Thanks for this. Makes a tough job to tackle easier for a DIYer. Is it feasible to disable the bypass valve on the roots blower using a cabin mounted switch? I'm thinking for attaining boost without a wide open throttle as implemented in the original design to improve fuel efficiency? I was thinking for short term off-road when more torque is needed but with more subtle throttle movement.
very good how to, I'm on the the next one. thank you for taking the time to make this video
Alot of people are just cutting the wire and buying a new sensor.
that awesome degreaser is the best !!
mercury villager nock sensor
Yes true for a replacement. Let me clarify, my method is a bypass as opposed to a replacement for the knock sensor. true if you want to actually replace a bad sensor with a functioning knock sensor this is the only way to do it even on a normally aspirated version you would have to remove the manifold. but as us off roaders and guys who beat the hell out of our vg33 have found, the knock sensor is completely useless and a poor design mounted too closely on the high vibration motor it causes more harm and problems than any good that it was ever designed to do. if you need the knock sensor on your supercharged version then yes this is the best method. that being said The Supercharged version puts out a light boost and has slightly less compression due to the supercharger. it is more likely to send a false signal then notify you of something wrong if you have low boost. If you have low boost in your engine starts knocking you will definitely notice it no need for a knock sensor. These are great engines however that knock sensor placement was a total screw-up on Nissan's part. Hope this information helps , good video for someone who actually wants to replace the knock sensor. But my advice is to bypass it altogether that way you won't have to keep going back and replacing it... which you will have to do especially on an after-market knock sensor like a Pep Boys AutoZone or any Chinese made parts store knock sensor.
So is it absolutely necessary to have it on the supercharged engine?
Very helpful video! Thanks for posting!
Did you have to take the fan/radiator out to put the new supercharger belt/s in?
Great video! After getting everything put back together. The supercharger is making a knocking noice toward the rear next to the fire wall. All the vaccum hoses are connected properly. I don't believe any foreign objects found it's way in there. Notice it more when the engine warms up. Any ideas?
What's your mileage on it. I'm looking to buy a 2002 sc and it has 170,000. Any concerns
it has 80,000 miles, no concerns they are really good cars
Mine is well over 200,000 and still running strong.
What fluids have to be drained before teardown?
How did it ran before replacing it
Why not cut the wire harness - put on a new end ---and then run the new knock sensor to the firewall or some such place?
bout to do this to my 01 sc frontier. it looks all about the same. if u know, is it? and can this be done by a first timer or should i have some help for someone with some experience. i ask cause u make it look easy. maybe a stupid question. and are u labeling parts or u done this enough to know were every thing goes.
great video though man. been looking for something like this for the last couple weeks surprised i hadn't came across ed it before.
Yeah they are exactly the same. It can be done by a first timer with no problems, just take your time and be patient. It was my first time changing the knock sensor on one of these engines, so it was a learning experience for me too. Everything came out great, and the truck passed emissions!
Cool man probably gona tackle it this weekend hope it gose smoothly. Might be hitting u up again. And again thanks for posting these videos gona save me a ton of money and gona learn something. Awsome stuff
where does the other end of the hose that connects to the top half of the fuel pressure regulator connect to?
I have a question, I know this video has nothing to do with suspension components, but I own a 2002 Nissan Xterra, 3.3 L not supercharged 2WD, and am trying to find out polyurethane suspension components, if you can help me out to find out if you know anything about, please help me out, thanks in advance...👍❗
bro this damn fuel rail in the back right corner i cant get it out from under those aluminum pipes did u diconect anyting else or just fight it out. i kinda bent the rail up front tugging on it not crimped completely but geez its a pain.
01 Frontier SC Yeah its a pain to get out the fuel rail but its better than having to take out all the stuff thats in the way
About how long did this take you then?
Excellent video - gives me faith that I can DIY
Funny thing is the supercharged version is a lot easier to do lol the naturally aspirated sucks
I've done the naturally aspirated engine knock sensor and it did suck! I'm thinking about getting a super charged x soon and I'm sure I'll have to replace the knock sensor. Do you think it's worth putting the knock sensor somewhere else on the block?
what's the price to changed it?
where are you located???
Raul Romo Phoenix, AZ
Great video man! Sorry for the question, but, is this your xterra?
Dude this is made way more complicated than it has to be! Get a knock sensor off an old Maxima in a junkyard for about $5 the Maxima's are easy to access because the transversely mounted motor you can pull it out easily without removing intake manifold. next you mount it on top of your motor or anywhere you want as long as it's away from the motor I mounted mine on top of the manifold , next you trace the wires from your knock sensor splice them and add new wires with the plug you got from the junkyard connected to your new knock sensor on the top of the engine. Donne and done! You leave the factory knock sensor where it is, it's disconnected and won't interfere with the motor because you have the new knock sensor on top sending the signal to the ECU. shouldn't take more than 20 30 minutes tops.
This is the only way to do it on a supercharged version. You do not want to RISK not detecting knock. On a naturally aspirated version, Your version works just fine without problems.
I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier Naturally Aspirated I'm pretty sure my knock sensor has gone bad, so by doing the knock sensor relocation to the top of the of the intake manifold is fine, why is this okay with the NA engine but not the supercharged engine?