man i feel you, when i did my k04/rs4 clutch i had to redo the return lines as well and jesus christ with those allen bolts is almost virtually impossible to loose them up i was force to drop the subframe and what not, but everyone goes back to revise the build lol, good lucks bro
Thanks! It would be really awkward if they were SHCS, the hex head bolt just makes sense in that location. I'm sure these won't be the only issues I encounter, but it's still fun to tinker on it. Super easy when all the hardware is new too haha
@@PBGarage Can I pick your brains a little. You mentioned that oil in the intercooler charge pipe was an indicator of failed turbo seals which is no doubt going to be expensive to rectify. I do have oil in my charge pipe of my 1999 B5 S4 Avant and am wondering if there are any other potential sources for the oil. On one of my other vehicles oil in the air intake pipe is from the pcv valve failing (positive crankcase pressure valve?). I have been ignoring the oil for some time, but your video has prompted me to actually resolve the issue.
Check your crankcase breather system, particularly the PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve, hangs off the y-pipe) and the associated hoses (particularly the junction at the back of the engine bay). If they become clogged the crankcase cannot vent properly, leading to a buildup of crankcase pressure as you're driving, which can force oil past seals or even damage them. Turbo seals can wear out from high use, but it's good to eliminate other causes first. Drop us a message on Messenger and I can send you more info (pics, etc). On my old Audi 90, when I turbo'ed it, after a long drive in the winter if I parked outside in the cold (Canada-cold... like -25*C), the filter element on the catch-can would freeze and restrict air flow, so as I would start my next drive the pressure would build up and blow out my turbo seals. The first time it did that I was an hour away from home and it virtually emptied the contents of my oil pan into my exhaust / intake via the turbo seals. It was quite the smoke show since I tried to make it home (but gave up when the oil light came on).
Yeah, not sure why I didn’t in the first place but it’s obviously needed. While not finger loose, most of them were definitely in need of re-tightening. Now that initial compression set has taken place and the nuts are re-tightened with loctite I should be good!
When I added oil to the bore the compression went up so I’m leaning towards the rings, but a leak down test is a good idea to confirm. I’ll try and do one before I dig into it further 👍🏻
Get a front mount oil cooler… easy DIY project with the correct parts and it eliminates that big box that can get knocked around… for me it eliminated a lot of oil leak troubleshooting
@PB Garage he means the big aluminum oil cooler that the oil filter screws on to. An external oil cooler mounted up front, in front of the Radiator does away with that piece of crap antifreeze filled oil cooler. Which actually heats your oil to the antifreeze/water mix.
Thanks! They are my own brackets that I designed. I’ll release a video about them in the next few months. instagram.com/p/CPIi6QIjWEL/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
I have a quick question as i cant seem to remember which video you talked about your exact turbo specs. I'm planning to look around for k04s from the 2002-2004 C5 4.2l rs6/rs6 plus as they seem to be fine for making around 500-600hp on the 2.7 based on what i seen online. But i wanted to see what turbos did you use? also maybe buy a small camera to put through the spark plug hole and see if the cylinder is scratched.Also could the lower compression be caused by piston ring gaps all put in a line? since i thought that every piston rings gap is meant to be 180 degrees from the other to keep the engine from drinking oil.
My turbos are OEM from the RS4, not RS6, which I debated using, however from what I understand the low end toque is sacrificed for power higher in the rev range. I prefer near instant torque especially down low since it better suites my driving style (400 ftlb @ 3700 at the wheels!). For the piston rings, I've heard that too, that lining up the gaps can lead to lower compression. I was diligent in making sure they were not lined up, I followed the ring manufacturers instructions very closely. I may try and find a scope to inspect the bore, but I also have a lead on a replacement bottom end, so I'm considering that route as well.
@@PBGarage thanks for the reply. I mean what is the point of replacing the bottom end is the car seems to be running good? Would it not be better to wait till this engine shits itself?
Not sure if thats considered a complete build for the competition. Part out and start over. But honestly, that thing drives and looks so nice, and those are all minor items. Your could probably ride out that cylinder 2 for quite a bit to be honest. Nice vid.
Shame that a fresh rebuild with all brand new parts/gaskets becomes problematic for such a short time. I’m doing a full rebuild myself and this scares me 🥲
Well I’ve been driving it all summer this year and haven’t seen any smoke at all. Also the low compression doesn’t have any symptoms that I notice, so drivability hasn’t been affected. Got it retuned on E40 a few weeks ago so it’s ripping a bit harder now!
man i feel you, when i did my k04/rs4 clutch i had to redo the return lines as well and jesus christ with those allen bolts is almost virtually impossible to loose them up i was force to drop the subframe and what not, but everyone goes back to revise the build lol, good lucks bro
Thanks! It would be really awkward if they were SHCS, the hex head bolt just makes sense in that location.
I'm sure these won't be the only issues I encounter, but it's still fun to tinker on it. Super easy when all the hardware is new too haha
Glad to see that I am not the only one that has to revisit a job several times before its finally done properly. 😂😂
Totally!!! With the amount of things I changed / modified I was not surprised to find a few issues.
@@PBGarage Can I pick your brains a little. You mentioned that oil in the intercooler charge pipe was an indicator of failed turbo seals which is no doubt going to be expensive to rectify. I do have oil in my charge pipe of my 1999 B5 S4 Avant and am wondering if there are any other potential sources for the oil. On one of my other vehicles oil in the air intake pipe is from the pcv valve failing (positive crankcase pressure valve?). I have been ignoring the oil for some time, but your video has prompted me to actually resolve the issue.
Check your crankcase breather system, particularly the PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve, hangs off the y-pipe) and the associated hoses (particularly the junction at the back of the engine bay). If they become clogged the crankcase cannot vent properly, leading to a buildup of crankcase pressure as you're driving, which can force oil past seals or even damage them. Turbo seals can wear out from high use, but it's good to eliminate other causes first. Drop us a message on Messenger and I can send you more info (pics, etc).
On my old Audi 90, when I turbo'ed it, after a long drive in the winter if I parked outside in the cold (Canada-cold... like -25*C), the filter element on the catch-can would freeze and restrict air flow, so as I would start my next drive the pressure would build up and blow out my turbo seals. The first time it did that I was an hour away from home and it virtually emptied the contents of my oil pan into my exhaust / intake via the turbo seals. It was quite the smoke show since I tried to make it home (but gave up when the oil light came on).
@@PBGarage Thanks for the input. I have identified the location and ordered a new crankcase breather hose assembly. Will fit in the new year.
I started putting a tiny bit of blue lock tight on my valve cover bolts due to them loosening up over time.
Yeah, not sure why I didn’t in the first place but it’s obviously needed. While not finger loose, most of them were definitely in need of re-tightening. Now that initial compression set has taken place and the nuts are re-tightened with loctite I should be good!
This thing is so nice!
Thanks!!!
Great vid
Your videos are exceptional
Thanks Cheryl!!! ❤️🙏👍🏻
Love it! Keep them coming. I have an imola
Love that colour! I have too many silver cars :(
your s4 sounds great, I just sold mine two days ago😢
Thank you! Nothing beats cruising around with the windows down 😎
still waiting on final tune specs :(
He’s just started running an E85 mix that ends up being around E40. Headed back to the dyno soon I think too to get the tune fully dialed.
Maybe do a leak down test to see where you are leaking compression. Might be a valve as well.
When I added oil to the bore the compression went up so I’m leaning towards the rings, but a leak down test is a good idea to confirm. I’ll try and do one before I dig into it further 👍🏻
Get a front mount oil cooler… easy DIY project with the correct parts and it eliminates that big box that can get knocked around… for me it eliminated a lot of oil leak troubleshooting
Thanks for the tip, but what big box are you referring to?
@PB Garage he means the big aluminum oil cooler that the oil filter screws on to. An external oil cooler mounted up front, in front of the Radiator does away with that piece of crap antifreeze filled oil cooler. Which actually heats your oil to the antifreeze/water mix.
Thanks for all the work! Damn that car is clean. It that the Vosh Mods rear BBK adapter?
Thanks! They are my own brackets that I designed. I’ll release a video about them in the next few months.
instagram.com/p/CPIi6QIjWEL/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Audi's will always have a special spot in my garage! What year is that?
Same here, I’ve been driving Audis since about 2000. This one is a 2001 👍🏻
@@PBGarage Beautiful car for sure my friend!
I currently have a 2011 S5. V8s are great! I'm in Ontario as well ... just east of TO
Thanks! I lovvve a good V8! The S5 is a sweet car. Next spring we’ll be uploading a ton of B7 RS4 content, including a showdown with the B5.
crackes xs power manifolds?
We haven’t used the XSPower manifolds yet.
I have a quick question as i cant seem to remember which video you talked about your exact turbo specs. I'm planning to look around for k04s from the 2002-2004 C5 4.2l rs6/rs6 plus as they seem to be fine for making around 500-600hp on the 2.7 based on what i seen online. But i wanted to see what turbos did you use? also maybe buy a small camera to put through the spark plug hole and see if the cylinder is scratched.Also could the lower compression be caused by piston ring gaps all put in a line? since i thought that every piston rings gap is meant to be 180 degrees from the other to keep the engine from drinking oil.
My turbos are OEM from the RS4, not RS6, which I debated using, however from what I understand the low end toque is sacrificed for power higher in the rev range. I prefer near instant torque especially down low since it better suites my driving style (400 ftlb @ 3700 at the wheels!).
For the piston rings, I've heard that too, that lining up the gaps can lead to lower compression. I was diligent in making sure they were not lined up, I followed the ring manufacturers instructions very closely. I may try and find a scope to inspect the bore, but I also have a lead on a replacement bottom end, so I'm considering that route as well.
@@PBGarage thanks for the reply. I mean what is the point of replacing the bottom end is the car seems to be running good? Would it not be better to wait till this engine shits itself?
Not sure if thats considered a complete build for the competition. Part out and start over. But honestly, that thing drives and looks so nice, and those are all minor items. Your could probably ride out that cylinder 2 for quite a bit to be honest. Nice vid.
I don’t know I feel like to be eligible for the competition it needs to have even compression on all cylinders.
Pretty sure the car also has to be running under its own power to be considered for the competition.... I'm in a league of my own!!! 🤴🏻👑💥💥💥
Nice
Shame that a fresh rebuild with all brand new parts/gaskets becomes problematic for such a short time. I’m doing a full rebuild myself and this scares me 🥲
Well I’ve been driving it all summer this year and haven’t seen any smoke at all. Also the low compression doesn’t have any symptoms that I notice, so drivability hasn’t been affected.
Got it retuned on E40 a few weeks ago so it’s ripping a bit harder now!