Regarding whether to pre-fill filters. I was actually given the same advice when I was working in a truck shop, that those filters would fill so quickly that it wouldn't make a difference, even on the DD16s and ISXs. I'd argue you're also risking contamination by pre-filling, albeit a negligible amount. Either way, excellent video as always
Good video. I also carefully wipe the gasket surface on the block before mounting the new filter, to make sure no crud is sitting there. Same with the drain plug washer and pan.
Actually i have a durango hemi 5.7 and i got it when it was new and i have always use the platinum oil and i love how the durango feels its a really good oil, always do the oil change every 4.5k miles never more than that at all
Might be worth mentioning to double check that the gasket came with the old filter after removing. As for Mobil 1 have used it quite a bit with no issues but for whatever reason my wifes toyota with the 2grfe seems to get a bit noiser when i use the "advanced fuel economy" stuff so stopped using it.
Getty, if you haven't already, pop on a catch can , will blow your mind whats going into your intake between oil changes. Your truck undercoated or is it dripping with oil leaks?
I'm with you on the oil. I buy what ever is on sale at the time. As long as it meets the specs. Change it regularly. I've never had engine problems related to oil ever in my 57 years.
It looks like the truck version of the 6.4L uses the physically smaller oil filters that go on the 5.7L vehicles versus the larger filter that is used on the "SRT" 6.2L or 6.4L.
What do you think about the Fumoto oil drain valve? I've been using them for about 30 years and have never had an issue. It definitely makes oil changes a lot easier and cleaner.
You should do a video describing what you think is the minimum driving required to keep a modern diesel running right. Can you do a bunch of short trips as long as you have a long drive often enough? What if someone drives really far to travel every weekend towing a heavy 5th wheel, but the drive during the week are pretty short. Is simply getting the engine up to temp enough if you dont drive much after(think a very long commute but you get to work as soon as the engine hits temp). How long after thw engine hits temp should you drive for a healthy engine? How similar is sitting in traffic to just idling? Are there ways to heat the engine up faster? Also you could elaborate on how long your typical regen takes and how your driving affects the process. What if you only get the engine to heat 50% of the time. Id be interested to see it compared to getting it to temp 25% and 75% of the time
I have a Power Wagon with the 6.4 as well…just changed the oil on it myself last night…I have used the PUP 0W40 since new and it has about 112k on it now…I switched to Castrol 0W40 because it’s readily available and about half the price of the PUP…one thing I found about those Hemi’s is the oil filters are super small, and I feel it may be a contributing factor to the Cam/lifter failures that are very common to these Hemi engines…the extended oil change intervals coupled with extended idling and the small filter is in my view a huge issue for these engines!..some people are going 20,000-30,000kms between oil changes and that’s just way too much!…I change mine at around 6000-7000 kms and I do not use the factory filter…I use the longer version of that filter which is the same filter that Ford uses on its Duratec engines like the 3.0l and the 3.7l…I use the Mobile 1 M1-212a filter or it’s Fram Ultra equivalent…same filter as the factory recommended filter, just about an inch longer so more capacity!…I was concerned about switching oil brands because I thought it might throw an engine code but it didn’t and I will be using Castrol or maybe even the new Valvoline oil which is supposed to be super good oil!..to reset the oil I think you have to pump the fuel pedal 5 times to reset it!..cheers!
Hi, I know is probably a long shoot. And it has nothing to do with this video. But I was wondering what pick up truck would you recommend to buy. My budget is around 20-25K. I need something 4WD and I will used it as my daily. I know all pick up trucks have mechanical issues, but I would like some advice if possible, of what truck you think is more reliable. Thanks in advance. And I love the content of your videos 👍🏼
A tundra with the 5.7 will be the most reliable though the most expensive to purchase. The American trucks are all the same WRT reliability. I own a ram 1500, spend time on several truck forums, maintenance is key! The v6 options have slightly better reliability, like the Ford v6 (not the ecoboost, but the naturally aspirated entry level v6) and the pentastar v6 in the ram. The 4.3 from GM is quite good too, or the turbo max 2.7 from GM. Stay away from GM's v8s, lifter failures due to AFM/DFM, and definitely stay away from the 2014 to 2018 eco diesel in the rams (bottom end failures).
Been using Rotella T6 5w-40 in wife's 2015 6.4 since new. 72,000 miles now. Compared to my sister's 2022, wife's idles much much quieter. Blackstone reported a little high on iron after 8500 miles, 80% towing, and about 40% was heavy towing (23,000# +). I wasn't happy to see it go that long before an oil change =/
I like this idea of the Rotella 5w-40 ! That Rotella is great oil, I keep it in stock for my Dodge Ram Cummins. I hope you don't mind me using your Idea, for my 392 Jeep! Have a good one Chuck,
Hey the 2500 is looking good. I know you were monitoring potential rust on it a couple winters ago. Any update there? Maybe warrants a video update. We did appreciate you going everywhere under the truck and identifying vulnerable areas and what to do about them
Do new vehicles really need torque for drain plug? I only ever do snug w/wrench on my vehicles. If the filter is pointed upwards, fill it, if it's a small filter on the side like that, I never fill because it could spill like I have done in the past and where your filter housing is located, it would be inconvenient due to the filter location and where you have to reach your hand around.
Irrelevant question here. Have a 2020 power wagon and was curious if you went down the air bag daystar cradle wormhole. Cjc off road has a removable air bag for the power wagon but at a hefty price. Just curious if you think it’s worthwhile or not for a little bit of help in the rear when towing. Thanks
Yeah, “smart people that they are”. No drain on the 1500 Hemi in ‘14. Directly over the steering rack. A bit of foil usually helps. Thanks for the content.
I see you added some length to your mud flaps. Can you give us some details of the material used and the how you attached them. what size was the extension. I remember in your other video you said you needed to make them longer because the stones were chipping the paint. thanks
how level the ground is affects drsinage. i drove my 64 hemi up on ramps to give it tilt. oil frsin bolt is now lowest point thus draining more old oil. after filling back up , leveled it out to get true reading of quantity filled.
I always use some motorkote on my 6.4 hemi in my 16 PW, the hemi oil temp is very high, around 212F, which on a hot day can go as high as 220F, i live in the desert, but motorkote or lubeguard oil additive is a must for me, i do like pennszoil , but have used mobile 1 as well.
Does anybody make an aftermarket magnetic oil pan drain plug? Seems like a good idea to me.
5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
I have 2017 ram 3500 dually that i started putting 15/40 rotella because at 279,345 miles the temperature has been getting hotter so i noticed a drastic decrease in temp and my truck has been driving alot stronger lately . i hotshot in it so it has some rough miles. But at first i went mobike 1 synthetic all the way .
@@itsclaydoggxd761 uhmmmm...some parts were dry and some parts were wet as heck. I am not so sure but will wait to see what GettyAdventures says, eg. I have seen wet coat for underbody corrosion resistance and that doesn't strike me as such
I have a feeling that there are fairly few who still change their oil at the 5000km mark ( I do though ) and is rather enlightening to look at a car fax for various brands of vehicles that were traded into dealerships, some clearly show a pattern of oil change intervals and its not good and perhaps why its being traded in. No doubt partly going by the idiot monitor but also going well past it in some cases.
Engine tolerances are based on the type of oil used. I use what the manufacturer recommends and have never had an issue. Using 0W-40 in an engine designed for 0W-20 can cause problems down the road. It certainly isn't going to prolong the life of the engine and can certainly shorten it.
The mobil 1 0w-40 euro has an excellent reputation on the oil nerd website (bobistheoilguy) who discuss engine oils in extreme detail. All good there. But the wix xp, though built very well, is a terrible filter in terms of efficiency. It will let "small rocks" through (exaggerating, but its terrible). Royal Purple 20-820 if you can fit it in, or Fram XG2 (same thing, fitment) are far better options, the Fram Ultra series has excellent filtering ability. I would not use that filter on a hemi prone to lifter failures, those needle bearings are sensitive little beggars.
Undercoating. Krown rust protection fluid. wonderful at keeping rust off everything with the amount of salt that gets put down on the roads. Special formula to prevent rubber deterioration.
I was surprised you are using a 0W-40, the 40 part that is as I am only guessing Ram calls for 5W-30 or 0W-30 ?. I use a fair bit of the Mobil Delvac 0W-40 which is by and large designed for diesel engines and that's what I am using it for ( diesels that will see use year around in Alberta ) , otherwise 15W-40. Gas engines, most everything I have is older so either 10W-30 or 0W-30. Is this a lifter/rocker arm bearing/cam shaft concern that you decided to go with the 40 weight on the top end of its temp spectrum ?
@@aarons307 Very interesting, that must be a bit of an oddity among north american gas engines as they sure are pushing for very thin oils these days, certainly in the typical SUV or 1/2 ton pickup segment with 0W-20 or thinner yet with some cars. HD trucks gas wise as per Ford and GM, they say 5W-30 and must meet the LSPI ( Low Speed Pre Ignition ) spec with the GM due in part because of the direct injection. So thanks for that info, good to see Ram not pushing the thin oil for the 6.4 but have to wonder if that engines days are numbered, time will tell.
Torque the drain plug with an air impact. Don’t start the bolt by hand, just put the bolt in the socket and get some speed on it before starting it into the oil pan. Return to customer.
Plenty of horror stories about dealers botching a simple oil change. I've been doing my own ever since I was a teenager and have never had a single issue. I keep receipts for my oil and filter and keep track of everything on a spreadsheet.
@@AlaskaErik so did I. Then worked in service as well. Hopefully, eventually you get to a point in life where you realize it's monkey work and your time is more valuable than to change your own oil. If there is an issue, a reputable shop will take care of it, simple as that.
@@roman9762 I'm retired, so I have plenty of time. Not to mention, it's faster for me to do it in my own garage. And there's nothing wrong with "monkey" work. And even if a shop makes it right there's the inconvenience of being without my vehicle while it's being right. Even though I'm a college educated professional there is nothing wrong with doing things for myself that involve manual labor.
@@AlaskaErik Sensor instead of stick. I mean, it's better to have a sensor catch it and alert an owner vs the owner not ever checking. But dang, why not have both.
I would love to see how everyone else does this. I purchased a grease needle and just pump until I see it come out the joint. Not sure how else to know how much grease to pump in.
I had 46k on my 21 6.4 that I owned since new when I traded it in. Probably 95 % of my oil used was MB1 0W-40 with wix xp filters. Outstanding Blackstone oil reports for every oil change. 5k OCI is the key, MB1 is fine for the 6.4
Nice to see someone who changes his oil as frequently as me
same here, 5000KMs, like clockwork
😒
Regarding whether to pre-fill filters. I was actually given the same advice when I was working in a truck shop, that those filters would fill so quickly that it wouldn't make a difference, even on the DD16s and ISXs. I'd argue you're also risking contamination by pre-filling, albeit a negligible amount. Either way, excellent video as always
Good video. I also carefully wipe the gasket surface on the block before mounting the new filter, to make sure no crud is sitting there. Same with the drain plug washer and pan.
Thanks for the video
I’ll be changing mine on a 6.4 liter for first time soon.
I got the Pennzoil PUP.
I prefer ultra platinum myself. I have kinda fallen in love with that oil.
I have nothing against it, Just never availible locally to me and I to ship it in seems silly.
I started using that in my 5.7 hemi, I too really like it
It is silly to ship it. But I do that so oh well hahaha.
Actually i have a durango hemi 5.7 and i got it when it was new and i have always use the platinum oil and i love how the durango feels its a really good oil, always do the oil change every 4.5k miles never more than that at all
It goes on really good sales at CT. I have saved to my wishlist, so I get an email when it goes on sale.
Might be worth mentioning to double check that the gasket came with the old filter after removing.
As for Mobil 1 have used it quite a bit with no issues but for whatever reason my wifes toyota with the 2grfe seems to get a bit noiser when i use the "advanced fuel economy" stuff so stopped using it.
Getty, if you haven't already, pop on a catch can , will blow your mind whats going into your intake between oil changes. Your truck undercoated or is it dripping with oil leaks?
I'm with you on the oil. I buy what ever is on sale at the time. As long as it meets the specs. Change it regularly. I've never had engine problems related to oil ever in my 57 years.
It looks like the truck version of the 6.4L uses the physically smaller oil filters that go on the 5.7L vehicles versus the larger filter that is used on the "SRT" 6.2L or 6.4L.
What do you think about the Fumoto oil drain valve? I've been using them for about 30 years and have never had an issue. It definitely makes oil changes a lot easier and cleaner.
You should do a video describing what you think is the minimum driving required to keep a modern diesel running right. Can you do a bunch of short trips as long as you have a long drive often enough? What if someone drives really far to travel every weekend towing a heavy 5th wheel, but the drive during the week are pretty short. Is simply getting the engine up to temp enough if you dont drive much after(think a very long commute but you get to work as soon as the engine hits temp). How long after thw engine hits temp should you drive for a healthy engine? How similar is sitting in traffic to just idling? Are there ways to heat the engine up faster?
Also you could elaborate on how long your typical regen takes and how your driving affects the process.
What if you only get the engine to heat 50% of the time. Id be interested to see it compared to getting it to temp 25% and 75% of the time
I have a Power Wagon with the 6.4 as well…just changed the oil on it myself last night…I have used the PUP 0W40 since new and it has about 112k on it now…I switched to Castrol 0W40 because it’s readily available and about half the price of the PUP…one thing I found about those Hemi’s is the oil filters are super small, and I feel it may be a contributing factor to the Cam/lifter failures that are very common to these Hemi engines…the extended oil change intervals coupled with extended idling and the small filter is in my view a huge issue for these engines!..some people are going 20,000-30,000kms between oil changes and that’s just way too much!…I change mine at around 6000-7000 kms and I do not use the factory filter…I use the longer version of that filter which is the same filter that Ford uses on its Duratec engines like the 3.0l and the 3.7l…I use the Mobile 1 M1-212a filter or it’s Fram Ultra equivalent…same filter as the factory recommended filter, just about an inch longer so more capacity!…I was concerned about switching oil brands because I thought it might throw an engine code but it didn’t and I will be using Castrol or maybe even the new Valvoline oil which is supposed to be super good oil!..to reset the oil I think you have to pump the fuel pedal 5 times to reset it!..cheers!
Hi, I know is probably a long shoot. And it has nothing to do with this video. But I was wondering what pick up truck would you recommend to buy. My budget is around 20-25K. I need something 4WD and I will used it as my daily. I know all pick up trucks have mechanical issues, but I would like some advice if possible, of what truck you think is more reliable. Thanks in advance. And I love the content of your videos 👍🏼
A tundra with the 5.7 will be the most reliable though the most expensive to purchase. The American trucks are all the same WRT reliability. I own a ram 1500, spend time on several truck forums, maintenance is key! The v6 options have slightly better reliability, like the Ford v6 (not the ecoboost, but the naturally aspirated entry level v6) and the pentastar v6 in the ram. The 4.3 from GM is quite good too, or the turbo max 2.7 from GM. Stay away from GM's v8s, lifter failures due to AFM/DFM, and definitely stay away from the 2014 to 2018 eco diesel in the rams (bottom end failures).
@@JohnSmith-ev1sm thanks for the advice 🤠👍🏼
What was all under your truck? Looked like some kind of fluid film or something.
Is that grease under the car undercoating? If so, which one did you use? I personally use surface shield.
I recommend Lucas oil stabilzer synthetic at every oil change works well
That's garbage actually
Hey! What kind of front mud flaps are those?? Can you send me a part number?
Hey nice tutorial
I thought maybe you would install one of those FOMOTO drain valve s. It make it much simpler on oil change
What's with all the oil on the front end components there? Looks really damp under there, leaking power steering or something?
Fluid film, helps prevent rust in the harsh winters from treated roads...
@@dsuv59rt21oh gotcha yeah, I live in Utah and I used fluid film also.
Been using Rotella T6 5w-40 in wife's 2015 6.4 since new. 72,000 miles now.
Compared to my sister's 2022, wife's idles much much quieter.
Blackstone reported a little high on iron after 8500 miles, 80% towing, and about 40% was heavy towing (23,000# +). I wasn't happy to see it go that long before an oil change =/
I like this idea of the Rotella 5w-40 ! That Rotella is great oil, I keep it in stock for my Dodge Ram Cummins. I hope you don't mind me using your Idea, for my 392 Jeep!
Have a good one Chuck,
Hey the 2500 is looking good. I know you were monitoring potential rust on it a couple winters ago. Any update there?
Maybe warrants a video update. We did appreciate you going everywhere under the truck and identifying vulnerable areas and what to do about them
Hey Alex, how are you liking your Power Wagon still? Any off road/snow videos coming out?
Do new vehicles really need torque for drain plug? I only ever do snug w/wrench on my vehicles. If the filter is pointed upwards, fill it, if it's a small filter on the side like that, I never fill because it could spill like I have done in the past and where your filter housing is located, it would be inconvenient due to the filter location and where you have to reach your hand around.
I've never torqued and have never had an issue. I go by feel. Now I just use a Fumoto oil drain valve, so it's a moot issue.
Irrelevant question here. Have a 2020 power wagon and was curious if you went down the air bag daystar cradle wormhole. Cjc off road has a removable air bag for the power wagon but at a hefty price. Just curious if you think it’s worthwhile or not for a little bit of help in the rear when towing. Thanks
Nice job. Oil is the lifeblood of
Yeah, “smart people that they are”. No drain on the 1500 Hemi in ‘14. Directly over the steering rack. A bit of foil usually helps. Thanks for the content.
I have to use a oil filter from the dealer or my truck throws a check engine light
How would a person turn the engine over only for the purpose to run the oil pump? Is there a way to do it without spark and fuel?
I see you added some length to your mud flaps. Can you give us some details of the material used and the how you attached them. what size was the extension. I remember in your other video you said you needed to make them longer because the stones were chipping the paint. thanks
Where is the oil coming from that has the underside of the truck covered
Great video , good explanations and easy to follow
how level the ground is affects drsinage. i drove my 64 hemi up on ramps to give it tilt. oil frsin bolt is now lowest point thus draining more old oil. after filling back up , leveled it out to get true reading of quantity filled.
Now show us a transmission, transfer case and both diffs.
He ain't even close to that interval yet.
Transmission fluid and filter change is at 50k
would you ever add Seafoam in the oil?
I always use some motorkote on my 6.4 hemi in my 16 PW, the hemi oil temp is very high, around 212F, which on a hot day can go as high as 220F, i live in the desert, but motorkote or lubeguard oil additive is a must for me, i do like pennszoil , but have used mobile 1 as well.
Does anybody make an aftermarket magnetic oil pan drain plug? Seems like a good idea to me.
I have 2017 ram 3500 dually that i started putting 15/40 rotella because at 279,345 miles the temperature has been getting hotter so i noticed a drastic decrease in temp and my truck has been driving alot stronger lately . i hotshot in it so it has some rough miles. But at first i went mobike 1 synthetic all the way .
@TheGettyAdventures I noticed you have a lot of wetness around that sway disconnect and the front axil tubes. Any concerns of a leak perhaps?
fluid film undercoat
@@itsclaydoggxd761 uhmmmm...some parts were dry and some parts were wet as heck. I am not so sure but will wait to see what GettyAdventures says, eg. I have seen wet coat for underbody corrosion resistance and that doesn't strike me as such
He said it was undercutting in another comment.
I know, you might say it was leaking, but that's a lot of wetness on a relatively new vehicle.
This was very helpful. Thanks!
Chrysler tech here, great video, but they are *technically* a 1/2 inch drain plug.
What filter do you recommend?
I have a feeling that there are fairly few who still change their oil at the 5000km mark ( I do though ) and is rather enlightening to look at a car fax for various brands of vehicles that were traded into dealerships, some clearly show a pattern of oil change intervals and its not good and perhaps why its being traded in. No doubt partly going by the idiot monitor but also going well past it in some cases.
All the old gas heavy duty trucks tended to be long stroke smaller bore so they made their torque at a lower rpm and didn't need to rev so hard.
I only run 0w40 all year round in my Tacoma… it has served me well. I suspect running any new engine on this oil would double engine longevity.
Why do you suspect it would make an engine last double? 😂 compared to what? Running no oil at all?
Engine tolerances are based on the type of oil used. I use what the manufacturer recommends and have never had an issue. Using 0W-40 in an engine designed for 0W-20 can cause problems down the road. It certainly isn't going to prolong the life of the engine and can certainly shorten it.
Nice job!
The mobil 1 0w-40 euro has an excellent reputation on the oil nerd website (bobistheoilguy) who discuss engine oils in extreme detail. All good there. But the wix xp, though built very well, is a terrible filter in terms of efficiency. It will let "small rocks" through (exaggerating, but its terrible). Royal Purple 20-820 if you can fit it in, or Fram XG2 (same thing, fitment) are far better options, the Fram Ultra series has excellent filtering ability. I would not use that filter on a hemi prone to lifter failures, those needle bearings are sensitive little beggars.
Thoughts on putting a little diesel in your oil just before you change it, given you don't over fill. ?
Your front diff is hella greasy
We’re a bunch of oil change Keeners up in here🤣
Alex, you're a trip :) Mobil is not pronounced Mo-bile, that's the UK way. Yes, I'm teasing you..... Why O weight in any truck?
Whats the oil all over your front end?
Was wondering the same thing.
fluid film, under oil, an intentional coating we use in the winter for rust prevention.
Royal Purple is the only oil I use!!
Why is the underneath of your truck so dirty/wet? You have a coolant/oil leak?
That's an undercoating. Like fluid film or something like that.
Undercoating. Krown rust protection fluid. wonderful at keeping rust off everything with the amount of salt that gets put down on the roads. Special formula to prevent rubber deterioration.
I stick with 5w-40 for every oil change!
Need to add oil to filter
damn I want a power wagon
I was surprised you are using a 0W-40, the 40 part that is as I am only guessing Ram calls for 5W-30 or 0W-30 ?. I use a fair bit of the Mobil Delvac 0W-40 which is by and large designed for diesel engines and that's what I am using it for ( diesels that will see use year around in Alberta ) , otherwise 15W-40. Gas engines, most everything I have is older so either 10W-30 or 0W-30. Is this a lifter/rocker arm bearing/cam shaft concern that you decided to go with the 40 weight on the top end of its temp spectrum ?
0W-40 is the specified oil for 6.4 hemi in the trucks
Per the owners manual: 0W-40
@@aarons307 Very interesting, that must be a bit of an oddity among north american gas engines as they sure are pushing for very thin oils these days, certainly in the typical SUV or 1/2 ton pickup segment with 0W-20 or thinner yet with some cars. HD trucks gas wise as per Ford and GM, they say 5W-30 and must meet the LSPI ( Low Speed Pre Ignition ) spec with the GM due in part because of the direct injection. So thanks for that info, good to see Ram not pushing the thin oil for the 6.4 but have to wonder if that engines days are numbered, time will tell.
Torque the drain plug with an air impact. Don’t start the bolt by hand, just put the bolt in the socket and get some speed on it before starting it into the oil pan. Return to customer.
LOL Horrible, but Funny ! I wonder if Alex saw that?
I have no doubt that some oil change technicians do this. One of many reasons why I always change mo own oil.
Just take it to the dealer. No mess and disposal, cheaper half the time, and gets recorded in maintenance history.
Plenty of horror stories about dealers botching a simple oil change. I've been doing my own ever since I was a teenager and have never had a single issue. I keep receipts for my oil and filter and keep track of everything on a spreadsheet.
@@AlaskaErik so did I. Then worked in service as well. Hopefully, eventually you get to a point in life where you realize it's monkey work and your time is more valuable than to change your own oil. If there is an issue, a reputable shop will take care of it, simple as that.
@@roman9762 I'm retired, so I have plenty of time. Not to mention, it's faster for me to do it in my own garage. And there's nothing wrong with "monkey" work. And even if a shop makes it right there's the inconvenience of being without my vehicle while it's being right. Even though I'm a college educated professional there is nothing wrong with doing things for myself that involve manual labor.
Horrible placement for the oil filter. I couldn’t get mine off and it was impossible using a strap wrench.
Why wouldn't they have dip stick? How are you supposed to know how much is in there!? Do they expect it to never leak or burn it? What the hell.
New Rams have an oil level gauge in the DIC.
@@AlaskaErik Sensor instead of stick. I mean, it's better to have a sensor catch it and alert an owner vs the owner not ever checking. But dang, why not have both.
5k intervals why
Swaybar disconnect is a pain
Good process. Im too anal so i wait an hour to for it to drain. PUP5w30 and wix xp for my 5.7 @ 10,000km.
You forgot to grease your front driveshaft.
I would love to see how everyone else does this. I purchased a grease needle and just pump until I see it come out the joint. Not sure how else to know how much grease to pump in.
The Mobil 1 doesn’t meet the Chrysler MS-12633 standard for the engine. I would never put anything that in a 6.2/6.4 other then that.
You’re leaking a lot of ok dude jeez
Mobile 1 is junk oil watch an oil analyst video on it.
The 0W-40 Mobil 1 actually does reasonably well in testing.
From what Ive seen 0w-40 stuff is pretty decent.
It is not junk oil.Some oils may test better,but Mobil 1 is far from junk oil,especially if changed on a interval that is not long
I had 46k on my 21 6.4 that I owned since new when I traded it in. Probably 95 % of my oil used was MB1 0W-40 with wix xp filters. Outstanding Blackstone oil reports for every oil change. 5k OCI is the key, MB1 is fine for the 6.4