I did this with all of my 7 takumar lenses, some of them got brighter by an entire stop. And don't worry, they haven't lost the "vintage feel" at all. ;)
@@akpevbe I bought a big 30W UV lamp, It was done in 5 hours.:P but I left it there for another 10 hours for good measures and that was it.:) and yes, the glass got crystal clear again.:) (ps: just be careful your lenses don't get too hot.👍)
@@MathieuSterndon’t put it in a microwave you might get seriously hurt, metal in a microwave is deadly! No jokes with this please. Some people do not know better and can seriously can get hurt.
In fact when shooting with B&W film, this can be an advantage, I tend to add yellow filters, I should search those lenses before UV, nice tip for using vintage lens on mirrorless numerical camera though...may be it’s also good to prevent fungus ? Good tip to know, thx
Fun Fact , back in the B/W press photography days 1920-1970s when the old large format Graflex Speed Graphic cameras was king in the U.S. you would see ads in photo trade publications or camera stores selling used "seasoned lenses " for Speed Graphic cameras . A lot of press photographers shooting B/W liked the look of the photos they shot with thorium yellowed lenses . Back then most lenses lack any anti reflective coatings and computer designed lens elements , they felt the yellowing help lens flare with flash and bright daylight photography almost acting as a one or two stop neutral density filter 😉. Even Police crime lab and Coroner phototags using the Speed Graphic cameras were "seasoned lens" lovers too. How I found out about the yellowed lens preference was from good friends step dad who was LAPD crimelab photographer. He start in the late 1950s with Speed Graphics . Even later in 64 or 65 when LAPD switch to a mix 35mm SLRs and medium format cameras which most had thorium doped lenses , since LAPD was providing B/W film the lens yellowing was never a issue. It wasn't a issue until late 70s when due to appeals court decisions forced most Police agencies to switch color film for crime scene photography. . I totally forgot for years , him talking about the LAPD's camera repair techs they had on staff to fix broken cameras and how they fixed yellowed lens with cooled box with UV lamps . Then about 4 years ago I saw Ken Wheeler's aka the Angry Photographers videos on vintage lens and how to Fix yellowed Thorium doped lenses. I like your choice of a led UV lamp because they run so much cooler than other UV sources . As Ken said in his video the old leave the lens in a sunny window/too hot of UV lamp source can lead to another bork of the lens were the old focus ring grease melts and migrates on the inner elements of the lenses. Both you and Ken have mad master lens mechanic skills (sadly I don't ) but if you can a 3 hour lens tear down, lens element washing , re greasing and reassemble job why not 😉👍. Again another Quick but A grade video Mathieu ! Oh I though I would share this 1949 fun retro promtion film I found for General Electric photography Light meters . I have the same light meter. I found it in my dads old photography equipment he used after he got out the army WWII . Dam I still wish he keep the old 35mm rangefinder camera which he bought in Germany after VE day when he was with the US occupation forces and served as a court reporter for US Army JAG. My Dad did not have enough points to rotated home till early 1947. LoL sorry for the family history lesson . Here is the link to the youtube video th-cam.com/video/NmTrOg3hxik/w-d-xo.html I think you get a kick out of the video especially sense you like work with vintage lenses, cameras and gear. Have a great day Mathieu .
ar coatings and anti-uv coatings.. no thanks haha.. I wish all lenses were this way. Just set a filter to what you want to do, and then design cameras like the SD10/14 too. Full spectrum and a ton of choices.
Good advice. You sometimes hear about using sunlight. That causes too much heat. I use an cheap (€ 10) Ikea desk light (called Hanslo). Lens on mirror with light just above it for as long as it takes...
i tried this with a UV lamp intended for plants and it took me about 10+ days to get rid of all the yellow. So just fyi if you dont see results in such a short time let keep letting it sit.
A long time ago I cleaned and restored a pair of WWII military binoculars, but the internal glass prisms had yellowed, and now I finally know why. I wish I had know this back in 1980s
Literally doing this right now with the UV Lamp you recommended. I was looking but didn't find a big enough one for 6x7 lens, everything I saw was for smaller lenses. Thanks!
@@akpevbe It did work, I ended up having to leave it under the light for 48 hrs at about 6-8 inches away from the back of the lens with the mirror under it. 48 hours in 12 hour increments not all at once so it didn't get hot.
@@andydreadsbmx Thanks a lot dude, really helpfull. So no need to flip the lens so as to hit both side, onlythe back is enough as long as there a mirror on the other side?
@@akpevbe From what I know and have read the yellowed element is the back element. As long as the mirror is there is there is something internal(which I don't think there is) it will get the light as well. So yeah keep the light on the back element.
They turn yellow due to the decay of the thorium atoms, which releases energy over time. UV light recharges the atoms and puts the electrons back in place. It works with gamma rays too, and it should be faster.
Hola Mathew. Ten cuidado al exponer durante mucho tiempo los objetivos a la luz UV porque las partes de goma o plástico del cuerpo pueden estropearse con esta luz. Te sugiero que pongas un cartón tapando la lente y dejando sólo a la vista un círculo por donde sólo se vean las lentes. Muy buen vídeo y esperando el siguiente.👍😄
Gracias, en el caso de Takumar, es todo de metal, por lo que no hay problema con el plástico. Pero entiendo tu idea y es una buena sugerencia cubrir las piezas de plástico.
The glass will start to yellow again over time because the radioactive thorium coating is still there. These Takumar lenses are made around 1965-1971 so it will take some time :)
Very cool video. Does the UV affect the paint on the outside of the lens? Does the color fade or rubber start to crack? I don't know if I should cover the outside with foil.
This is a method that works well for Takumar lenses, people mostly use IKEAs Jansjo lamp, these types emit UVA and UVB light. Some lenses are much more stubborn, UVA and UVB are easily blocked by glass, so it also depends where the radioactive element is. I struggled with a Konica AR 57 f1.2, even buying a lamp that emits very dangerous UVC light, you start smelling ozone (the summer rain on hot tarmac smell) seconds after you turn it on. I made a "death box" put all the disassembled elements of the front optical block in the box (the lens is more radioactive on the front) for a week, no success.
I think I have one of the stubborn ones. Several days with the Jansjo and about a week of this lamp and it's improved but not clear. I may just give up and buy the slightly more pricey 8-element Tak that didn't use the thoriated glass.
You are my hero! Maybe it is better to put that lens from you and your children far away... it is really dangerous. Even more dangerous than Takumar 1.4/50 in 10 times... But anyway, nevermind.
Hey dude! Long time no see. Your video hasn't popped up on my feed in a long time (and I don't look at notifications). 😀 Great tip! Some of my vintage lenses could use this treatment. 👍💪
@@MathieuStern I'm trying. 😁 It's hard running IG, YT, TikTok and growing on each plus editing and posting. You're still my main inspiration for getting on Instagram and collecting lenses. 👍
damn.... finally I found a reason why all the photo is like a sephia look or too warm its because the lenses are need that UV light. Thanks mate, cool video!
I'm happy it worked for you. It didn't for me. : ( ETA I gave it another chance and after a day I'm seeing real improvement. Might only take another day or so. (I may have forgotten to take off the original skylight it came with last time.) Happy because the Tak 50 1.4 is a nice lens.
Gushhhhh. I love everything done / touch by King Midas, also known as Mathieu Stern. btw way my friend, I haven't done it myself but have heard that the thorium related yellowish discoloration of the lens can be treated simply by sun light. May be worth to have another clip to proof or disprove it. That is if you have more of those radioactive lenses! (I have no doubt that if there is any weird lens left on our plant, they are all in Mat's cupboard!!! :-) Thought the bottom line is that, the yellowish discoloration actually cast a very beautiful color to the picture with a very distinct taste of nostalgic theme and feel. So the real question is: "Why should we even care to remove it, if are lucky enough to have a lens of that kind. 🤔🙄🤠
I'm looking to remove the yellow tint/haze on my lens because when adapting to my Sony, I see the auto WB acts really funky. I normally set white balance and go, but there is such a clear visual distinction that I can tell something is "wrong". I tried the sunlight thing (kept a lens on a window sill for a month). It helped…slightly. Ordered the UV light and hope it will do much better.
I think my Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm F1.4 has some yellow but not as much as the Super-Takumar version. i've never really noticed any colors i don't like with my Takumar 24 and 50
@@MrAllstar Yes, but direct sunlight also makes lubricants run, which I’m trying to avoid. A UV source without the related heat would be better if effective.
You can't mess up the coatings or anything by doing this too much can you? Just curious because my lens it pretty yellow and it is working but it's taking some time. 24 hours in and we are about 50% there.
The 7 element was my first lens too! No lens since has even come close to the level of satisfaction I get from the build quality, smooth aperture clicks, or history 🤌
Sauf que si tu laisse un objet en metal noir au soleil pdt 8h ... ça va chauffer ! tu vas faire fondre la graisse de ton objo et la dilatation du metal peu aussi abimer le verre ... donc le soleil marche oui, mais c'est risqué
@@MathieuStern Ah évidemment faut pas le faire en plein été, ni même maintenant (il fait chaud aujourd'hui près d'Angers) ! Un soleil d'hiver apporte les UV sans trop chauffer, en tout cas je l'ai fait sur plusieurs objectifs sans souci, mais t'as raison faut être prudent.
Good method. Some folks leave thorium lenses in full sunlight ... dangerous as the lens can reach temperatures high enough to cause lubricants to liquefy and run onto the internal elements. A full teardown is needed to clean up the mess. (Don't ask me how I know this....)
If you don't want to remove yellow tint ( not forever, as it ll come back in decades) , better not buy thoriated lenses 😝.... You shot with great lenses which were not sharp from corner to corner, I don't see the benefits of such radioactive lenses....
No such thing as small amount of radioactive material.. Hehehe once is radioactive is radioactive & can be & actually is dangerous... Hehehe what we need big amounts...
I did this with all of my 7 takumar lenses, some of them got brighter by an entire stop.
And don't worry, they haven't lost the "vintage feel" at all. ;)
You should like... give away some of the to the people reading your comment or something.
How long did you put it under the UV light for? And did it completely remove the yellow colour?
@@akpevbe I bought a big 30W UV lamp, It was done in 5 hours.:P but I left it there for another 10 hours for good measures and that was it.:) and yes, the glass got crystal clear again.:) (ps: just be careful your lenses don't get too hot.👍)
Does the yellowing come back??
@@herrreinsch Thanks dude, just got the 30W UV lamp and doin mine now
Glad to know about this, because I tried the USB light from IKEA that a lot of people recommend and didn't have much luck with it.
"How do we solve this radioactive symptom?"
"By introducing another form of radiation."
Maybe I should put it in the microwave after that
@@MathieuStern I was actually considering this for an experiment lol
@@MathieuSterndon’t put it in a microwave you might get seriously hurt, metal in a microwave is deadly!
No jokes with this please.
Some people do not know better and can seriously can get hurt.
In fact when shooting with B&W film, this can be an advantage, I tend to add yellow filters, I should search those lenses before UV, nice tip for using vintage lens on mirrorless numerical camera though...may be it’s also good to prevent fungus ? Good tip to know, thx
Fun Fact , back in the B/W press photography days 1920-1970s when the old large format Graflex Speed Graphic cameras was king in the U.S. you would see ads in photo trade publications or camera stores selling used "seasoned lenses " for Speed Graphic cameras . A lot of press photographers shooting B/W liked the look of the photos they shot with thorium yellowed lenses . Back then most lenses lack any anti reflective coatings and computer designed lens elements , they felt the yellowing help lens flare with flash and bright daylight photography almost acting as a one or two stop neutral density filter 😉. Even Police crime lab and Coroner phototags using the Speed Graphic cameras were "seasoned lens" lovers too. How I found out about the yellowed lens preference was from good friends step dad who was LAPD crimelab photographer. He start in the late 1950s with Speed Graphics . Even later in 64 or 65 when LAPD switch to a mix 35mm SLRs and medium format cameras which most had thorium doped lenses , since LAPD was providing B/W film the lens yellowing was never a issue. It wasn't a issue until late 70s when due to appeals court decisions forced most Police agencies to switch color film for crime scene photography. . I totally forgot for years , him talking about the LAPD's camera repair techs they had on staff to fix broken cameras and how they fixed yellowed lens with cooled box with UV lamps . Then about 4 years ago I saw Ken Wheeler's aka the Angry Photographers videos on vintage lens and how to Fix yellowed Thorium doped lenses. I like your choice of a led UV lamp because they run so much cooler than other UV sources . As Ken said in his video the old leave the lens in a sunny window/too hot of UV lamp source can lead to another bork of the lens were the old focus ring grease melts and migrates on the inner elements of the lenses. Both you and Ken have mad master lens mechanic skills (sadly I don't ) but if you can a 3 hour lens tear down, lens element washing , re greasing and reassemble job why not 😉👍. Again another Quick but A grade video Mathieu ! Oh I though I would share this 1949 fun retro promtion film I found for General Electric photography Light meters . I have the same light meter. I found it in my dads old photography equipment he used after he got out the army WWII . Dam I still wish he keep the old 35mm rangefinder camera which he bought in Germany after VE day when he was with the US occupation forces and served as a court reporter for US Army JAG. My Dad did not have enough points to rotated home till early 1947. LoL sorry for the family history lesson . Here is the link to the youtube video th-cam.com/video/NmTrOg3hxik/w-d-xo.html I think you get a kick out of the video especially sense you like work with vintage lenses, cameras and gear. Have a great day Mathieu .
ar coatings and anti-uv coatings.. no thanks haha.. I wish all lenses were this way. Just set a filter to what you want to do, and then design cameras like the SD10/14 too. Full spectrum and a ton of choices.
Good advice.
You sometimes hear about using sunlight. That causes too much heat.
I use an cheap (€ 10) Ikea desk light (called Hanslo).
Lens on mirror with light just above it for as long as it takes...
Thanks for sharing
i tried this with a UV lamp intended for plants and it took me about 10+ days to get rid of all the yellow. So just fyi if you dont see results in such a short time let keep letting it sit.
Awesome trick!! Thanks for sharing!!
Although the I liked more the “before” photo 😜
Fair enough!
A long time ago I cleaned and restored a pair of WWII military binoculars, but the internal glass prisms had yellowed, and now I finally know why. I wish I had know this back in 1980s
Literally doing this right now with the UV Lamp you recommended. I was looking but didn't find a big enough one for 6x7 lens, everything I saw was for smaller lenses. Thanks!
So did it work, and how long did you leave it under for?
@@akpevbe It did work, I ended up having to leave it under the light for 48 hrs at about 6-8 inches away from the back of the lens with the mirror under it. 48 hours in 12 hour increments not all at once so it didn't get hot.
@@andydreadsbmx Thanks a lot dude, really helpfull.
So no need to flip the lens so as to hit both side, onlythe back is enough as long as there a mirror on the other side?
@@akpevbe From what I know and have read the yellowed element is the back element. As long as the mirror is there is there is something internal(which I don't think there is) it will get the light as well. So yeah keep the light on the back element.
@@andydreadsbmx Thank you very very nuch dude 👍🏾
Thanks a lot for this useful tip Mathieu. I'm curious about the physical phenomenon that causes and suppresses yellowing.
Good question!
They turn yellow due to the decay of the thorium atoms, which releases energy over time. UV light recharges the atoms and puts the electrons back in place. It works with gamma rays too, and it should be faster.
@@arashi9469 : thanks for the explanation.
Hello! Thanks for the tip! I have a Canon 28-70mm f/2.8 lens which it has that tint. Will it work on this lens??
Hola Mathew. Ten cuidado al exponer durante mucho tiempo los objetivos a la luz UV porque las partes de goma o plástico del cuerpo pueden estropearse con esta luz. Te sugiero que pongas un cartón tapando la lente y dejando sólo a la vista un círculo por donde sólo se vean las lentes. Muy buen vídeo y esperando el siguiente.👍😄
Gracias, en el caso de Takumar, es todo de metal, por lo que no hay problema con el plástico.
Pero entiendo tu idea y es una buena sugerencia cubrir las piezas de plástico.
it was looking so much better with tint :)
Amazing! would this damage the coatings on the lens? can you test reflections and glares before and after
Has no impact on coatings.....
Hello,
Could you tell me what exactly the type of bulb you used: UV A-B-C? Black light etc ...
thanks in advance
JPh
I have an old polarized lens filter from the 50s-60s would it be safe to use this method on it.
Excellent video. Now it’s time to go pick up some cheap, yellowed vintage glass!
Cheap takumar lenses !!
My mistake ;)
Great tip. I wonder whether or not this treatment provides a permanent fix or that the glass will gradually turn yellow again over time.
The glass will start to yellow again over time because the radioactive thorium coating is still there. These Takumar lenses are made around 1965-1971 so it will take some time :)
@@Fredriktufte the Thorium is not a coating but doped in the glass mass, quite like crystal glass contains lead.
Meaning it still remains radioactive? Hopefully someone will do a radioactivity test befroe and after UV treatment
Very cool video. Does the UV affect the paint on the outside of the lens? Does the color fade or rubber start to crack? I don't know if I should cover the outside with foil.
This is a method that works well for Takumar lenses, people mostly use IKEAs Jansjo lamp, these types emit UVA and UVB light. Some lenses are much more stubborn, UVA and UVB are easily blocked by glass, so it also depends where the radioactive element is. I struggled with a Konica AR 57 f1.2, even buying a lamp that emits very dangerous UVC light, you start smelling ozone (the summer rain on hot tarmac smell) seconds after you turn it on. I made a "death box" put all the disassembled elements of the front optical block in the box (the lens is more radioactive on the front) for a week, no success.
I think I have one of the stubborn ones. Several days with the Jansjo and about a week of this lamp and it's improved but not clear. I may just give up and buy the slightly more pricey 8-element Tak that didn't use the thoriated glass.
You are my hero! Maybe it is better to put that lens from you and your children far away... it is really dangerous. Even more dangerous than Takumar 1.4/50 in 10 times... But anyway, nevermind.
UVC yikes!!!
I did the same thing to my canon fd 35mm 2.0 couple of years ago and it actually helped!
Hey dude! Long time no see. Your video hasn't popped up on my feed in a long time (and I don't look at notifications). 😀 Great tip! Some of my vintage lenses could use this treatment. 👍💪
I hope you will catch up with the videos you missed :))
@@MathieuStern I'm trying. 😁 It's hard running IG, YT, TikTok and growing on each plus editing and posting. You're still my main inspiration for getting on Instagram and collecting lenses. 👍
damn.... finally I found a reason why all the photo is like a sephia look or too warm its because the lenses are need that UV light. Thanks mate, cool video!
So you're shooting with manual white balance? Why?
It makes every hour golden hour!
Awesome and so simple !
Glad you like it!
Good video. Thanks
Is this treatment also effective for killing or avoiding or treating fungus in the elements. More importantly the ones in between elements?
UV light will kill fungus at a high intensity, so maybe SUN light will be more effective, but it could make the lens grease melt also...
@@MathieuStern The lenses have an Anti-UV coating, how can it kill fungus?
lovely trick. just one question. in the r2 picture, did you blank de wall too?
its not a wall, it's a piece of white paper
Nive review. Using a Jansjö Ikea bureau lamp €12,99. Works great. Treat all my lenses. All yellow gone. 😊 have to try too.
Thanks for the tip!
I'm happy it worked for you. It didn't for me. : ( ETA I gave it another chance and after a day I'm seeing real improvement. Might only take another day or so. (I may have forgotten to take off the original skylight it came with last time.) Happy because the Tak 50 1.4 is a nice lens.
The USB one?
@@no15minutecitiesthe USB one is so weak and did not have any affect or correction for me … I left it on there for 2 months , still yellow
would this work for rifle scope? Some people prefer yellow tint on rifle scope for eye strain relief.
Gushhhhh. I love everything done / touch by King Midas, also known as Mathieu Stern.
btw way my friend, I haven't done it myself but have heard that the thorium related yellowish discoloration of the lens can be treated simply by sun light. May be worth to have another clip to proof or disprove it. That is if you have more of those radioactive lenses! (I have no doubt that if there is any weird lens left on our plant, they are all in Mat's cupboard!!! :-)
Thought the bottom line is that, the yellowish discoloration actually cast a very beautiful color to the picture with a very distinct taste of nostalgic theme and feel. So the real question is: "Why should we even care to remove it, if are lucky enough to have a lens of that kind. 🤔🙄🤠
I'm looking to remove the yellow tint/haze on my lens because when adapting to my Sony, I see the auto WB acts really funky. I normally set white balance and go, but there is such a clear visual distinction that I can tell something is "wrong". I tried the sunlight thing (kept a lens on a window sill for a month). It helped…slightly. Ordered the UV light and hope it will do much better.
Doesn‘t the UV lamp get hot as well? Hot enough for the grease on the zoom/focus rings to dry up?
I think my Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm F1.4 has some yellow but not as much as the Super-Takumar version. i've never really noticed any colors i don't like with my Takumar 24 and 50
Many people are going to Buy some cheap yellow lens on eBay and turning them into beasts thanks to your video
I hope it helps
2:42 accidental cross eye stereogram, nice!
Will exposing to the sun work? That is UV as well :)
The heat can damage your lens.
Thank you for this video!!
nice mathieu do you know how to remove coating from lens?
Sandpaper.
Is this more effective or safer for the lens than just putting it outside in full sunlight?
Sun will work BUT, if you put it in the sun for 10 hr, heat may cause the lubricant in the lens to melt, contaminating the aperture blades
@@MathieuStern solid tip, thanks
Would this type of UV light also kill lens fungus? Obviously wouldn’t remove it, but curious if it would arrest it.
Just putting the lens in direct sun will kill the fungus.
@@MrAllstar Yes, but direct sunlight also makes lubricants run, which I’m trying to avoid. A UV source without the related heat would be better if effective.
@@MrAllstar The lenses have an Anti-UV coating, how can it kill fungus?
wow, great tip thank you. 👍
Thank you for the info!!!
You are so welcome!
I have a lumix 14-42 lens, are there any fun mods that I can apply to it?
Think: i've always thought yellow tint was stock on old Takumars.
Are those then still radioactive?
yes, and that's not a problem anyway
You can't mess up the coatings or anything by doing this too much can you? Just curious because my lens it pretty yellow and it is working but it's taking some time. 24 hours in and we are about 50% there.
Maybe use a stronger UV light
Amazing !
How long the fix last, long time?
20 years at least
Very helpful
Glad to hear that
uva uvB or uvc?
The 7 element was my first lens too! No lens since has even come close to the level of satisfaction I get from the build quality, smooth aperture clicks, or history 🤌
Great tip but don’t sit a 50mm 1.4 Super Tak on its protruding rear element!
Je connaissais la méthode rustique : le soleil ! :-)
Sauf que si tu laisse un objet en metal noir au soleil pdt 8h ... ça va chauffer ! tu vas faire fondre la graisse de ton objo et la dilatation du metal peu aussi abimer le verre ... donc le soleil marche oui, mais c'est risqué
@@MathieuStern Ah évidemment faut pas le faire en plein été, ni même maintenant (il fait chaud aujourd'hui près d'Angers) !
Un soleil d'hiver apporte les UV sans trop chauffer, en tout cas je l'ai fait sur plusieurs objectifs sans souci, mais t'as raison faut être prudent.
Danke
Good method. Some folks leave thorium lenses in full sunlight ... dangerous as the lens can reach temperatures high enough to cause lubricants to liquefy and run onto the internal elements. A full teardown is needed to clean up the mess. (Don't ask me how I know this....)
Oh yeah I’ve TOTALLY never done this before too lol who would do that
thats great, any tips on restoring my 51 year old eyes back to when i was 20.............
I'm the same age with the same problems. Does anyone have a suggestions? ;-)
@@TheHDAli I don't know either, but you definitely do not want to use strong UV light^^
Glasses?
Cataract surgery got my vision back to my 40's - I'm in my late 60's.
Удивительно!
большое тебе спасибо
great tutorial but what song is this lol
Side effect: lenses subjected to UV exposure tend to turn green when angry, may potentially go on a rampage.
mmmmm... thorium.........
but, some people want that yellow look for vintage feel
well, it's even cheaper to do nothing about it
you don't need a yellow filter for black and white photos ;-)
@@TheHDAli actually colored filters make way more sense when shooting BW. You can make the skin look smoother for example.
Will this work on Trump’s orange glow? 🍊
is kind like jaundice treatment for baby..
Colgate whitening sponsors this video
No lens fungus thats for sure with a radioactive lens lol
White one hat and water works
I fixed it by shooting in black and white. Who needs colors?
!!!
If you don't want to remove yellow tint ( not forever, as it ll come back in decades) , better not buy thoriated lenses 😝.... You shot with great lenses which were not sharp from corner to corner, I don't see the benefits of such radioactive lenses....
a collection is not always something logical :)
@@MathieuStern you're totally right. Thanks for your videos anyway, they helped me to make my own lens collection.
FaSt :))) LOL
My Canon EOS corrects the picture on auto WB so that the yellow tint can‘t be seen. That‘s the cheapest fix :)
Colors will still be worse though
@@amp08021 Correct. This is the issue I'm running into with my yellow tinted vintage lenses.
No such thing as small amount of radioactive material.. Hehehe once is radioactive is radioactive & can be & actually is dangerous... Hehehe what we need big amounts...
Hehehe
Does this degrade any plastics and or rubbers the lens may have?
18 hours is not 18 days. it should survive without problem.
24h not likely, several days yes, proven... better wrap the black parts (either plastic or painted metal) in aluminium foil
if i see one that is yellow i don't buy it, i don't want anything radioactive to carry it around with me
Too bad, More lenses for me :)
Nice and thanks