Funny thing is that i also came up with the aluminum foil and a lamp solution with the same chrome nose 35mm Canon lens. the major difference was that i purchased a UV lamp head from aliexpress for a rather low price. It took me about 4 hours of UV exposure to the glass to get rid of the yellow tint, so i strongly recommend using UV light instead of a full spectrum light !!!
Hey there -- at around the 1:10 minute mark you are reaching for a lens amongst a bunch of other lenses that are in what appear to be size marked cases ( or something ). What are *those*? ( lol ) (( if you don't mind sharing . . . )) Thanks
For the lenses, what I did without hurting a lens was get a step ladder, hang a brooder lamp through the middle with a CFL UV lamp in it. This was in my garage where it is cool. Then get a mirror out and lay it on the ground facing up. Then get your first lens, check that the rear lens does not extend to a point where it will allow the lens to touch the mirror. If it does you will scratch the coating on the rear lens. Then face the lens up toward the light as you lay it down on the mirror. Adjust the brooder lamp with the power cord, so that it is about 8 inches above the lens. You will not need to turn the lens over. The mirror will reflect the UV back up into the lens. You can keep an eye on the temperature of the lens using a thermometer gun. For me it took about 10 hours, but this depends on your setup. Keep in mind that sometimes the lens coating might goldish and look like yellowing. There should be an area between the lens and the CFL that will let air flow and keep things cool. Use a mirror, not aluminum foil, as the mirror will be smooth and flat.
@@BenandJackStudio reporting back that my lenses showed visible difference in 60 mins, but show significant difference in 5 hours. The vector scope confirmed this. My 200W light was one inch away from the lens glass rear and front as I rotated the lens every 20-30 mins. The on and off short spurts helped cool the all metal body on the Takumars. I was concerned about the focus gear lubricant heating up too much. I will continue the test for an additional 5 hours for a total of 10hrs to see what happens. I’ll happy with the results so far.
❤Nice review! You should try the FD 28-50 f3.5 and 24-35 f3.5 two of the best FD zooms, sharp wide open and parfocal. You can also get the early chrome nose 35mm f2 concave at a good price and is optically identical to the SSC version.
Well I tried the Ikea lamp by Jansjo for 2.5 days and it hardly shift the yellow tint. My Takumar 50mm f1.4 lens is already 95% clear, the previous owner more than likely attempted de-yellowing and got this far. I think the Jansjo lamp does have an effect at clearing a very heavily contaminated lens but being none UV can only get so far. Clearing that final 5% would need either UV or something better.
Funny thing is that i also came up with the aluminum foil and a lamp solution with the same chrome nose 35mm Canon lens. the major difference was that i purchased a UV lamp head from aliexpress for a rather low price. It took me about 4 hours of UV exposure to the glass to get rid of the yellow tint, so i strongly recommend using UV light instead of a full spectrum light !!!
Hey there -- at around the 1:10 minute mark you are reaching for a lens amongst a bunch of other lenses that are in what appear to be size marked cases ( or something ). What are *those*? ( lol ) (( if you don't mind sharing . . . )) Thanks
They’re canon FDs 👍🏼
For the lenses, what I did without hurting a lens was get a step ladder, hang a brooder lamp through the middle with a CFL UV lamp in it. This was in my garage where it is cool. Then get a mirror out and lay it on the ground facing up. Then get your first lens, check that the rear lens does not extend to a point where it will allow the lens to touch the mirror. If it does you will scratch the coating on the rear lens. Then face the lens up toward the light as you lay it down on the mirror. Adjust the brooder lamp with the power cord, so that it is about 8 inches above the lens. You will not need to turn the lens over. The mirror will reflect the UV back up into the lens. You can keep an eye on the temperature of the lens using a thermometer gun. For me it took about 10 hours, but this depends on your setup. Keep in mind that sometimes the lens coating might goldish and look like yellowing. There should be an area between the lens and the CFL that will let air flow and keep things cool. Use a mirror, not aluminum foil, as the mirror will be smooth and flat.
I’m wondering if using my 200W COB light will help cure my Takumar? 🤔
Give it a try. You can see the results pretty quickly so you will know within 24 hours whether it’s working or not. Good luck!
@@BenandJackStudio reporting back that my lenses showed visible difference in 60 mins, but show significant difference in 5 hours. The vector scope confirmed this. My 200W light was one inch away from the lens glass rear and front as I rotated the lens every 20-30 mins. The on and off short spurts helped cool the all metal body on the Takumars. I was concerned about the focus gear lubricant heating up too much. I will continue the test for an additional 5 hours for a total of 10hrs to see what happens. I’ll happy with the results so far.
I use a mirror instead of a foil. I shine the lamp on both front and rear of the lens in turns.
Thanks my yashica electro 35 has a lens that's straight up orange at this point
❤Nice review! You should try the FD 28-50 f3.5 and 24-35 f3.5 two of the best FD zooms, sharp wide open and parfocal. You can also get the early chrome nose 35mm f2 concave at a good price and is optically identical to the SSC version.
I used a UV light strip. 25w from Amazon. That worked really quick. Totally if the lamp is very powerful it will cure faster.
Well I tried the Ikea lamp by Jansjo for 2.5 days and it hardly shift the yellow tint. My Takumar 50mm f1.4 lens is already 95% clear, the previous owner more than likely attempted de-yellowing and got this far. I think the Jansjo lamp does have an effect at clearing a very heavily contaminated lens but being none UV can only get so far. Clearing that final 5% would need either UV or something better.
Helo.
Is this work with nd filter too? I have 77mm Tiffen which is totally yellow. I don't wanna sell. I want save.
Never tried it. Let us know how you get on :)
SAY HELLO TO MY LITTLE LENS
HELLO!!!!
Nice tip!
What would happen to the lens if I use an Aputure 1200D ?
Update, dont do that youll melt off the logo basically immediately. That is all
Oh goodness. Hope the Lena is ok!!!
@@BenandJackStudio Lens is fine, the yellow tint is completely gone, but the the front logo looks like roadkill.
any updates on this matter?
The matter was resolved
the LED light sources mostly do not have UV waves or minor. Therefore using an UV bulb will accelerate the process. Be careful with your eyes! :)
Ikea lamp £6 (though I got mine free), Amazon lamp £232? Patience is a virtue.
these are 352 sec not 60 🤔
We can do a 60 second one if you like 👍🏼
I have a bag of new old stock Photons if any one wants them....😎
But they were clear when they made them.