TMNT Arcade1Up mod with stock speakers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- There’s no need to throw out the stock speakers in your Arcade1up mod, you just need the correct items to connect them to the amplified speaker port on the lcd controller board.
LATTECH 15 Sets JST PH 2.0MM 4... www.amazon.com...
Fancasee (2 Pack) Replacement 3.5mm Female Jack to Bare Wire Open End TRRS 4 Pole Stereo 1/8" 3.5mm Jack Plug Connector Audio Cable for Headphone Headset Earphone Microphone Cable Repair www.amazon.com...
There are 3 wires coming off the stock volume switch. Easy to solder to the pcb . Took about 20 minutes. You don't even need solder just follow the pcb buttons to the pin out wires and splice in the volume wires to your wire harness.
This is brilliant! I ordered the cables using your links and it worked like a charm! The amazon links in your description actually gave me JST connectors that allowed me to wire the JST to 3.5mm Headphone jack as Red to Red, Black to Black, White to White, and Yellow to Green, respectively. I now have loud sound on my TMNT cabinet with volume at 20%!!! Thank you so much for uploading!
Thank you for the JST information. I was searching for that information
This is an awesome mod. I used the 3.5mm female audio jack to 4 screw terminal adapter to avoid soldering.
Got a link?
@@brealistic6377 This might work: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHBQ5YV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazing work, saved me frustration from buying Amp with no power cord from Amazon!
Thank you for the video this helped me get my marvel cab audio working with stock speaker. I did not want to wait for a 4 pin jst so I was able to repurpose the 2 pin wire from an old stock push button. I was worried it would only use one channel but it’s playing out of both speakers and sounds good.
So you just used the 2pin wires you would use for the arcade buttons?
Since I kept getting the wrong 4 pin JST, I just soldered the TRRS input jack directly to the back of the Video board.
Thank you so much for posting this! I was just about to buy an amp and so glad I don’t have to. Your video is the only one on TH-cam showing this technique that I found. I am really interested in watching a video on using the volume slider if you make one. BTW. I did this on my special edition Marvel Arcade1up and it worked flawlessly.
Glad it worked out for you!
Thanks dude! Did my Marvel cab this weekend, going to go this route instead of the old way with the amp and all that junk.
You won’t regret it
Still helpful! Thank you so much my harness colors where in different locations but your video is plenty of the puzzle to figure it out!
I don’t understand why I had to search so hard to find this information. Not one review on Amazon mentions this information
Bro please make an update on how to use the stock volume!
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the video, this is sooo helpful!! Great content.
I know this is old but just a quick correction- the green wire is not the ground for the right audio channel- the black wire is the only ground. Green is the wire for a microphone- even though the stock speakers don’t use a microphone, they use a 4 pole jack for some reason- which includes a microphone connection
This is exactly what I needed. Thank You. Can you tell me about your joystick and button setup? I see that you have 6 buttons for each player on that board.
I did this to my sf2 legacy cab, you get about 3+3 watts out of the pcb amplifier which is similar to the stock power so it's not upgraded over stock but it makes it a clean solution and unnecessary to spend more on audio. You can also use the stock power and volume switches. Just need to solder 3 wires to the sister board going to the volume switch.
Also you don't have to solder for the volume switch. You can splice/connect wires.
You were able to hook it up without soldering?
I was looking for this! Thank you so much!
You don't need to buy anything really. Why spend like 15 for both parts when you probably have what you need with you? All you need is the wires to connect in the right spot. No point in waisting money on an adapter.
If you have an old joy stick laying around with a 4 pin head cut that off and leave plenty of wire. The color does not matter. The color never matters usually. All the wires on the joy stick are the same. The color is just so you can keep track of what is where. Now cut the male plug off your aux cable and there will be 4 wires inside. They are labeled very obvious. Black wires are ground and the red and white are both the L and R speakers. Now if the 4 pin doesn't fit it then the casing around the pins on the LCD board need to be tampered with. Just grab your wire cutters and take the plastic off around the 4 pins on the LCD board. You really just need the sides to be clipped off for most 4 pin heads to fit. Ultimately you are just looking for conductivity. It is weak plastic and will come off pretty easy. The plastic serves only the purpose of holding the pin head in, so you aren't going to screw anything up by taking it off just use electric tape to help hold it (if needed). Now this video shows you exactly the way the wires should go. Just make sure your wires corresponds with the actual plug while it is plugged in. For example on my 4 pin plug from left (top pin LCD) to right(bottom pin LCD) the wires are ~top~[red][red][black][ black]~bottom~ That would mean I need to connect the red wire to the outside red wire then the black ground on the inside red wire. Then for the next speaker I need to connect the white on the black outside wire and the black ground on the black inside wire. So again, any colors you may have on your joy stick doesn't matter they just need to be matched correctly so that when you plug it is those wires are extending the wires from your speakers to the right spot on the LCD. It doesn't get any more cheaply rigged than that. :-D Ultimately it is up to you how you want it to look. I personally do not care and am just trying to get a connection through the wires. So if you are cheap like me... this is a solution.
Damn this is a great video
I did this on my Pac-man 40th cab (really just desoldered the original cord from the stock speakers and using a cord from some adafruit speakers), but was mostly interested in splicing my volume control into the sister board, so I'm really needing a video on that.
What should i do if i want to connect the stock mono speaker to the lcd board. I have a sf2 cabinet. Where does it sit since it's only two wires? And what are the settings in retropie than? Thx
I'd like to know this as well
I just need the little plastic 4pin what's it called please I have the wires to plug in to it
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice, I think I get it now. How did you connect the JST wires to the 4 pole wires? Did you just twist the ends together? Or solder? Really looking forward to the next video to see how to get the volume slider to work. But please be sure to actually show the connections at the end, on this video you skipped over showing the actual completed connections (although you did explain them in nice detail, would be great to actual see, too).
I simply have them twisted together at the moment. Best to wrap the connections in tape
@@MatrixPrime Nice. Nothing wrong with that. It works.
FWIW, I'm soldering each of the 4 connections together and then using heat-shrink tubing around each of them. This way, the wires will never disconnect unless purposefully done so.
@@LTG-IV might be too late but, why not splice the audio cable and solder directly to the lcd board?
Have you hooked up your stock volume switch to control the volume on from the board?
Thanks for this video! Do you have a video on how to connect to the stock volume button?
I’ve been wiring sound this way for all my Gen3+ cabinets and I love it, especially with the stock volume switch hacked in. But I find that I get a little bit of noise in the audio signal. It’s like an electric “whine.” It’s really only noticeable when there’s no sound playing but I wonder if anyone else has experienced or fixed it.
I'd be very curious to learn how you wire in the stock volume control. You have a video?
I spliced the stock volume wires into the wires from the daughter board but this works too:
th-cam.com/video/Q8EdhCuzUcc/w-d-xo.html
Actually... It's about the same price as getting an Amp WITH power cord -, - Not sure which is better. Ones easily adjustable with knobs and louder, other is much more clean and takes less place... Oh the dilemma...
Thanks for the video! Did you ever get the volume adjustment working?
I have not
Did you end up connecting the volume to the volume button on button board?
I wanted to do a 60 in 1 to my pacman legacy will this technique work with a 60 in 1 board?
It should - I believe those still have 3.5mm jacks
Hello. Great video. Do you have a video for the street fighter II cabinet? the stock speaker i believe is a 3 pin so that's where I am stuck.
Amazon sells 3 pin versions, but you may have to look up how to connect each wires.
Can this jst cable work on the 2 pin street fighter 1st gen cab if you want to use the 1 speaker?
Will this work on the Mortal Kombat cabinet? And where does the female jack connect to?
Did you make a vid on using the volume stock switch?
I did not, actually haven't made that mod yet.
What emulator is your puzzle fighter running on. Having a hard time finding this one
Great video, would love to ditch the amp, one less thing to mount/power up. Does anyone know how to wire the slider volume to the sister board for volume control?
looking for this aswell
Looking at the circuit I can't tell but I will try to find information somewhere on the specs of this. If I can then I can figure out how to wire it. I will update this if I find something.
I know this is a old post, but I just got a mvc cab, and I believe it is gen3 speaker. Is it possible that the L and R in this video is switched? According to my study, in my machine, after using the Trrs female jack to bare wire from amazon, the black is R-, the green is L-, the white is L+ and the red is R+.
It’s certainly not switched here in the video.
@@MatrixPrime thanks for the reply. I think model might be different. For me it is white wire to the yellow, green wire to the white, black wire to the red, and red wire to black
So since the sister board is in the back with the controller board have u found a easy way to turn the volume up and down without going behind the machine
At the moment no. But that will change as soon as I wire up the stock volume switch to the board. Then it will replicate the pushing of the left/right buttons on the board itself. I’ll be shooting a video of that too.
@@MatrixPrime awesome can't wait
@@MatrixPrime Any progress in this vid? Even just a little?
@@MatrixPrime Do you think you can re-use the original stock switch for volume to be the new switch for volume?
@@rixon2000 yes I believe you can wire it to the lcd controller to accomplish this.
I think you have the wrong jst cables listed in your description. I ordered them and they are way to small for the lcd controller board.
Wonder if you were seeing a cached description? I just checked the link and they are correct. The link was wrong when I originally published but I updated it. Just checked again and it’s what I used.
@@MatrixPrime yeah that was probably it. I see the updated link now.
@@ranman4878 yeah, I accidentally pasted in the micro cables before...those are the ones that "I" mistakenly purchased the first time.
@@MatrixPrime I ordered the right ones, except they gave me JST-XH cables that are in a bag labeled JST-PH. It's driving me nuts.
What lcd board did you use?
Is it a jst ph 4pin?
I have the link to the actual cable in my video description.
They sell JST PH 4pin with a 1.5mm pin pitch, which is wrong. The right one is the JST PH 4pin with 2.0mm pin pitch.
You still have all your tf stuff from 2007?
I do
Can it output through both the mini jack and speaker port at the same time?
Yes
@@MatrixPrime that's great. Thanks.
Does this use the stock switch too?
Nevermind saw the end of the video it doesn't. Boo.. thanks though. Great stuff