Rather than using welded bolts, buy a bag of tiny rod ends and put a nylon bushing through the hole in the gearbox size lever arm. Like m5 or m8 thread sized ones (they are stupid cheap). That will improve the clickity clackity sound and feel of the linkage considerably. The day i graduated from bolt pivots to those, i never wanted to go back. I've basically upgraded every linkage in all my heavy duty equipment with rod ends because it makes the whole operation so much better.
Dude yes! That's what I was thinking when he was test shifting and all you hear is metal clicking against other metal. This is a problem he has with all his builds and they get very noise when off-roading.
Badass linkage - looks so cool working. I would suggest getting some beads on the tubing so the hoses don't blow off...A couple weld blobs would probable work.
Your brain is so full of great ideas, I really love watching you solve issues as they arise,, you are making young people look good and gives me hope for our future
If you put an external cooling pump it won't work because if the thermostat on the engine closes the water pump won't have anywhere to pump and will build a lot of pressure until it fails or some hose explodes, so you will need a pressure control valve to regulate the pump pressure, and when the pump exceeds the valve pressure, the spring opens and the water just start looping into the radiator loop and not going into the engine, this is also good because your radiator loop have colder water ready to cool the engine better when you push it hard for a short amount of time, that is what those 2000hp drag race cars use to be able to keep the engine temperature under control in the sprints, and it works really well.
On your cooling lines, 1. At the end of the cooling pipe there needs to be a ridge for the hose clamp to butt up against. To prevent pressure from blowing the hose off. 2. give the red multipurpose hose a try, it is more durable.
@Marckusmtrmth lol the tube cant be hotter than the liquid inside. If anything the liquid will lose heat as metal is a better conductor helping the system. Science
Chris. I'm an electrician, for those water lines, they make aluminum EMT from ½" up to 1½". It's not that expensive, easy to bend, would not rust, much lighter, and would dissipate heat way more. I'm thinking 1" would be perfect in place of the steel tube. Just a suggestion. Great job BTW. This one is gonna be sick bro!
@@Mutantroosta.Gaming Sparky is just my trade. I'm not just a one hit wonder. Muscle cars, diesel mechanics, 4x4, framing, plumbing, mill work, welding. That's why I like this channel
I don't watch Chris because he nails it the first time, every time. I watch Chris because he shows what problems he has ran into building this or building that and shows us the solution he has came up with to solve said problems. And he takes us along for the upgrades he makes after lightly thrashing it and identifying any weak points in the design. And I concur with you Chris.....push/pull cable systems suck ass. It never fails, if you dont pack those lines with grease, that "stainless steel" cable will rust right in the center of the line and break unless it never gets doused in water. And if its a push/pull system thats used constantly, like, say, a shifter cable, you have to grease those lines every 5th time you take it out and trail ride it. Boo! With linkages all ya gotta do is just oil em every couple of years. Yay! Looking good Chris!!! Lets gooooo!!
I have to agree with some of the other commenters, add kind of a barb/lip around the steel tubing for the radiator lines, otherwise it is possible, even with the clamps really tight for the pressure to potentially blow the lines off. Might not happen at idle, but could happen going down the trails. Also, this time get a temperature probe that fits in the radiator fins to kick the fan on as needed. Also get a good water temperature gauge, probably a digital/LED one and not a mechanical analog type that could possibly bounce around on rough trails. That way you know if you need to allow it to cool down. Should help avoid catastrophic engine failure like what happened on the CBR1000 project.
You're right about the pump being a loop, the orientation of the truck on a hill won't mess with it's performance... on the other hand what will affect the performance is the friction loss from the length of pipes the coolant has to go through. A Hayabusa definitely has less piping to push the coolant through but there must have been some excess of power in the water pump. Maybe once you have the engine running you could put temporarily splice a fitting into the line with a flow meter and see if it's reasonable compared to what the engine needs. Should be a relatively quick check if you do it that way. Great video man you're a bona-fide engineer at this point
The closed loop system will negate the gravity on the system…but pumping the extra distance will make the system have a little more friction…I would want to bevel the edges of the 1” tube to prevent eddies and turbulent pressure on the fittings…also I would use double pipe clamp where ever you can because the pipes done have barbs on them…as alway great build it’s looking great 👍
It will eventually RUST inside those cooling tubes, and will damage radiator and motor. This is why you don't find any steel tubes in any of cars. Hoses, plastic or aluminium is the way to go. Awesome build !!! Loving it.
Who else is dying to hear this badass chain system when its all done?? I can't wait! It's either gonna sound like a badass chainsaw or its gonna sound like rocks in a dryer. Lol!
I said morse cables in the last video but wow. I like what you built. Very functional. When I'm building stuff I have to ask myself, " how would rather be welding do this"? You must be so excited about this build.
I'm with you on shifters, Chris. To my mind, using cables is always problematic. Getting the right amount of stiffness without losing any of the 'feel' of it all, and the cable ends seem to always break and at just the wrong time too. Great , and as always, your fabrication and problem solving skills are second to none. Can't wait for your next video!
I've recently got bored with other TH-cam channels, but without fail, I always look forward to Sunday evening uploads from Chris. I love all your work and how you make everything is just incredible... keep up the awesome work.. from your number 1 uk fan 😊
Thanks ! Your idea of adding another pivot point to fix the flex of the arm at 1:35 is exactly what I need to fix my home made cargo bike that has a too flexy control arm ! That was genius ! Thanks again for the idea ! :)
Love your videos! Binge Worthy! Only thing that bumps me out about your videos, the fact that we live close and frequent the same places yet I will never get to see these in person.
Iv been following this dude for soooo long now its crazy. I came in when he was doing his reverse trike thing. Love this dude channel. Hope he never drops ❤😅
You 100% need to turbo this thing. Everything about it is insane, i think that motor will fall short of the rest of it. With a turbo, the coolness and craziness will be consistant through and through.
Hey bro, I love fabricating mechanical devices also, and I can't stop thinking how cool it would be to work with you at your place, and really just pick your brain about making parts and integrating them into a project. Cuz you are mad genius in the fabrication realm!!! I love how you show your trial and error, but there's barely any error!!! Keep it up brotha, your just a cool dude!
Your water pump will be fine, it’s a transfer pump not a lift pump. As you said, what is going out is also being returned. The steel pipes will radiate some of the heat out of the system also. Cool build mate, she’ll be a bit of a weapon. I do think she needs a spoolie boi boost snail to force feed some air into it. Catchya next week mate. 🤙
Never a dull moment when you have a video come on we learn more and more on how to build linkage you sure have lots on this build . Your a wize at building anything you put your mind to
Screw the cables! I think the linkages are more reliable. And I love the way they work! I've been watching you for years and I've enjoyed watching how far you've come. You fabricate basically every part you use to build with. You're an Awesome Fabricator Chris. I enjoy watching you build brother. Keep up all the good work and Thanks for sharing your builds.
Nice build 👍. Yes I would mount all your water pipes on rubber to help with vibration crack's on the system plus definitely add an extra water pump just to be sure enough water is being moved to actually move enough water around the motor 👍
4 small hydraulic cylinders would work to convert the H pattern back to correct by how you run the lines connecting the system. It could also be done with electric solenoids like from the power locks on older cars and a small circuit board to program what each button does and both of those options fit the theme of the project. Hydraulic cylinders like the locker setup and junk yard shopping spree for door lock solenoids so either one would work but I think the hydraulic option would be better because there is nothing to go bad except a oil leak.
Nice work on the shifter! But Chris don't weld the cooling pipe to the frame, if the weld breaks you got a cooling leak. Just use a hose clamp on the pipe.
I would suggest installing a fan in the tunnel and adding some fins to the steel lines. This would cooling capacity, might as well with all that line and would help keep the tunnel from being heated up. I think without that, your aluminum panels would be too hot to touch after it's good and warmed up.
Shouldn’t have a problem with your coolant lines. I have an 08 r1 in my very built 06 Yamaha rhino, running a Honda civic radiator in front. I ran steel pipe the same way you did. 6 years with no issues. I know a lot of people recommending welding a “bead ring” around the ends of the steel tubes. While that is a great idea and for sure would help, I don’t have those on mine and mine are even powder coated. I overheated the motor during a race at 260 degrees and didn’t have any issues. I better knock on wood! Lol. Keep up the good content! This whole build is making me want to rip mine all down again and add reverse haha.
I'm stoked you figured out the shifter. I still think maybe a combination of cables into a linkage would've been much smoother and far quieter. Like cables straight back towards the transmission into a linkage right at the trans. Then you wouldn't have all that clunking around reverberating through the chassis. It's not my build though and I support your decision lol. As for the cooling system you could always put a louvered panel at the start of the tunnel so that it'll scoop cooler air into the tunnel and then put the rear of the tunnel.
About the cooling pipes, aluminium pipes will prevent galvanic currents that will eat your aluminium radiator and engine block. It would be cool to have the 2/4wd switch on the vertical part of the center console, that would also visualize very clearly if youre in 2 or 4wd.
Angle the shift handles so can move forward? Thought pattern is normally R+top left, 1+bottom left, 2+top right, 3+bottom right? Use joints same as steering (hime?) on secondary trans linkage. Then L bracket to change direction? Maybe use thin wall pipe and put hose through it?
I understand now why you don't like to use cabling. All your points makes so much sense. Friction complicated weakness. All of those issues. And I like the way you solve the sideways h pattern. Brilliant 🔥
That shifter linkage is fkn epic, I am very impressed but my concern for the radiator is if that pipe will rust internally..... Hoping he treats the inside w/ some bluing or something so the inside doesn't get nasty really fast, that could make some serious issues if it rusts then clogs the radiator core. I can't wait to see what this looks like when it's done, it has some serious potential to be one of the most capable vehicles he's made.... Also looking forward to another electric build. 😁👍❤️
Antifreeze when mixed 50/50 contains a rust inhibitor. The only reason why you may see rust form in coolant systems is because it has been ran beyond it's service life, it should be just fine otherwise
@1/2-1" in from the ends of the metal tubes you should weld a bead around them and smooth it so the hoses won't pop off.The radiator fan looks like it'll blow down the channel some,so that'll help.Great work Chris.We'll hear it run in no time now.
You could always put a piece of pipe insulation over the hot pipe, or both, if heat is an issue. An extra pump will likely be needed, switched on by hot temp. Any expansion from the pipes should be mitigated by the radiator flexible hoses, also they will help with any bending stresses, so I think that was a good solution. You’ll likely want to add some small barbs to the pipe to keep the hoses on, but that’s really for if you get the system up to full temp, that could give you a blow out from that pressure… Nice work!
only thing i would change with the coolant pipes, is weld a bead near the end so that the hose and clamp have something to brace against so the hose doesnt blow off.
Good work man! Only thing I’m worried about with the cooling system is the inside rusting and clogging up the cooler. May wanna coat it in something. Also hopefully your pump is strong enough to force the fluid to that distance and back. Love this build keep it up!
If you got into 3d printing or even bought some delrin for your lathe you could make plastic bushings for the linkages on the shifters making them alot more quiet and less rattly...
Good progress. Top-hat bushes are ideal for bolted pivots, Igus sells them in low friction plastic. You'd need smaller diameter bolts to refit yours to get the shift linkage less sloppy
Larger pipe...use a universal joint to rotate the shaft for lateral movement (x axis) maybe and length to move the shifter in the y axis. it might take to u-joints to bend the 90 degree to keep the action smooth. Just a thought.
Your linkage systems are awesome! I’ve thought push button shifting would be awesome to put on a project like this. Still engineering involved but ultimately less moving parts in the cockpit! Keep up the great work!
I agree. A simple actuator would probably be easy to setup for the 2x4/4x4 lever since it's just "on/off" essentially. This is overkill for this but a good example of what could be used: th-cam.com/video/hbqrHvyOiLs/w-d-xo.html
Honestly my favorite time of the week getting to sit down ND watch your videos. Love it dude. I'm loving how this machine is coming together, glad you went the way you did with the H shifter
Absolutely amazing wrk. Looks great. You are still going to have to make the long chain into 2 chains by adding jack shaft as I can not see that long chain wrkn it is going to skip unless it doesn’t have enough room to physically skip but that’s going to be friction. It’s going to skip unless you physically put something to not allow chain to skip but the friction will be ridiculous.
You could add a second pump at the radiator (or between two smaller rads) pushing it back to the motor and let the motor's pump push it to the radiator, especially if you run smaller dual rads given the room you have to install them. Another idea, what about taking those tunnel walls and adding venting slots or punching some louver ones to let the heat out naturally.
I think all that shifting linkage is bad ass . Your a great fabricator. The more I watch you , the worse I think I am. Only built 1 toy rock crawler & a pre runner truck . Well living close to the hammers ( koh ) ca desert
Something that I thought about. Why not use a push/pull solenoid for the up shift and down shift portion of your build and the incorporate that into your transmission shift handle.
If you channel some of the air from the fan into the tunnel you shouldn't have to worry about it heating up. Also you might need to look at a lower temp thermostat since the water traveling through the pipes might be colder than is normal for a bike.
Another thing is that you may need to add an external water pump to drive all that extra volume of coolant with those added pipes to properly cool. Especially with as high as that radiator is compared to where the pipes are ran. You gotta push all that coolant uphill and the stock pump might not be up to the task of moving that much since it was never designed to move that much
In a closed coolant system under pressure the coolant will act kind of like a hydraulic fluid to push it through. Gravity pushing it back down the other side of the radiator shouldn't have much of an impact because of the pressure in the system. It impacts the efficiency of flow through the radiator. Just not through the whole system. Ideally you'd want it to pump up to the highest point and return from the lowest. It would be less strain on the pump. If you pumped it to the lowest point, then the pump has to deal with the weight of all the coolant in the system from the top of the radiator to where the pump discharges. But if you pump it to the top it only has to deal with the weight in the pipes. Then gravity feeds it from there with the pressure behind it. Although if an air pocket would be able to form, the top down flow might cause more problems with creating air pockets in the radiator
I would put a pump in it. It's getting worked a hell of a lot harder. You should install a fan to blow through the trans/chain tunnel too. Just a beefy computer type would probably do you a favor sending a nice breeze through there. Have you thought about a heat system? Some toe warmers...
A good linkage is a very satisfying thing to craft. I would echo some of the comments below about using ball ends or heims in all pivots for less slop. You can find them is various sizes and with anti-friction bushings. I agree with your views on cables.
Was gonna say for the secondary trans.. look at how the poesche 924 shifter is... its a rear transaxle with a front motor. They use a l shaped shift rod hooked to the shifter. The forward and back operate at the end of the L and the forward and back on the top just before the L
I mean. I have drag cars with H patterns transmission and they run just cables from the shifter to the trans. I never had issues and I bang those gears like I mean it. I would give the cables one last try to this nice project 💪 keep it up!
How about, for your next project, get hold of a still running wrecked jeep, use the frame to set up a jig to locate all the suspension pickup points & drive train components etc. and then build a buggy from that? Also when climbing and descending obstacles, the coolant will have a high-pressure area and a low pressure area, relying on the engines pump to push the Coolant that far uphill may blow gaskets out, so a pump away from the engine is needed, but then when going down hill the radiator pressure may be high enough to make the cap release pressure and no coolant will make it back to the engine, so a pump at the Radiator outlet will be needed as well, I would be putting in pressure gauges at both the inlet and outlet of the engine, to see if the pressure is rising to gasket blowing levels and going into slight negatives and starving the engine of coolant
Hey man awesome :) i got a sweet tip for ya, Have nylon washers and nylon stock home so you can remove rattle noises where it is possible your ears will thank you :D Also if you are doing hardline tubing how about adding fans too give heat from those locations seem fitting ? you can have a smaller tube that heats up small radiator that you can control the flow with a flowdial (regulator?) knob... as a thermal control of flow and some sheet welded to give some tunnels and fans to give the flow to where it needs to go. i mean would be kinda nice if it is a cold day.
Hi Chris you have done exactly what I would have done with the coolant hoses running in the tunnels and I can tell you from cars I know that do this like the hillman imp is fine it will be the perfect solution and wont affect anything and many more cars i know of and have worked on so a great idea and solution mate love the gear linkage as you have said cables are a nightmare always stretching and having to be adjusted all the time and the snap your system will withstand an atom bomb a great solution and will last test of time cant wait to see this on the trail rock crawling all the best from John from Rugby UK.
I have mentioned before and I know you don’t like push pull cables but grab the shifter box out of around a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta it’ll change your mind on the cables
With the radiator that far away I would seriously consider putting in a electric water it will help with the cooling no matter what I know you're going to be running it up and down hills it will definitely help that stock water will not be able to move that much water and it will help
It never ceases to amaze me when I see all the expert fabricators in Chris's comment section. I can't WAIT to see all of them start channels and start uploading! Since they no so much they feel comfortable giving Chris advice! WOOHOO!!
For off road buggy should look into finding older honda goldwing engine larger displacement some have reverse newer ones fuel injected, shaft drive,gave good size alt it be awesome for size and weight the vehicle becomes and have great low end torque and parts availability great be cool to see u build a mini truck straight axel buggy, four link front back should checkout some people that build mini crawlers to get inspiration keep up great work and have great day.
You could have used the tube that makes up your tunnel as the coolant pipes. Just a space saving option in the future. That's more of a from the beginning plan than a quick fix
Man another awesome video. This is really going to a sweet busa x4 buggy. Fantastic job. Your an amazing fabricator. Can't wait to see you riding this beast.
Hey bro, you may need to run a electric water pump with this setup. Don’t think that little pump on the sports bike will push the coolant up there efficiently. But it’s coming along great man!
We seriously need more people like this guy, I can't get over how he makes all this stuff himself, cant wait to see everything after its painted 🔥💯
He’s great at what he does 🔥
He has a very "mechanical" mind. Not a whole lot of people in the world that can think of this in their head and make it a reality.
It's so much fun building something by yourself especially if you own a garage/workshop.
Rather than using welded bolts, buy a bag of tiny rod ends and put a nylon bushing through the hole in the gearbox size lever arm. Like m5 or m8 thread sized ones (they are stupid cheap). That will improve the clickity clackity sound and feel of the linkage considerably. The day i graduated from bolt pivots to those, i never wanted to go back. I've basically upgraded every linkage in all my heavy duty equipment with rod ends because it makes the whole operation so much better.
Love the builds on your channel. I can see why you are telling Chris what to do.
Dude yes! That's what I was thinking when he was test shifting and all you hear is metal clicking against other metal. This is a problem he has with all his builds and they get very noise when off-roading.
Badass linkage - looks so cool working. I would suggest getting some beads on the tubing so the hoses don't blow off...A couple weld blobs would probable work.
Your brain is so full of great ideas, I really love watching you solve issues as they arise,, you are making young people look good and gives me hope for our future
17:54 now that’s nice keep it up!😎
If you put an external cooling pump it won't work because if the thermostat on the engine closes the water pump won't have anywhere to pump and will build a lot of pressure until it fails or some hose explodes, so you will need a pressure control valve to regulate the pump pressure, and when the pump exceeds the valve pressure, the spring opens and the water just start looping into the radiator loop and not going into the engine, this is also good because your radiator loop have colder water ready to cool the engine better when you push it hard for a short amount of time, that is what those 2000hp drag race cars use to be able to keep the engine temperature under control in the sprints, and it works really well.
On your cooling lines, 1. At the end of the cooling pipe there needs to be a ridge for the hose clamp to butt up against. To prevent pressure from blowing the hose off. 2. give the red multipurpose hose a try, it is more durable.
In most cooling systems, there builds about 17 - 20 psi pressure. I'm sure no one wants hot coolant spraying if something happens.
His tubes are held in place though. Should be good
That thick gauge tubing will also maintain a lot of heat.
@Marckusmtrmth lol the tube cant be hotter than the liquid inside. If anything the liquid will lose heat as metal is a better conductor helping the system. Science
@@kswappedem2 as the tube is thicker it will maintain the heat of the collant longer than a thinner tube would. Didn't say it would get hotter.
Chris. I'm an electrician, for those water lines, they make aluminum EMT from ½" up to 1½". It's not that expensive, easy to bend, would not rust, much lighter, and would dissipate heat way more. I'm thinking 1" would be perfect in place of the steel tube. Just a suggestion. Great job BTW. This one is gonna be sick bro!
a sparky.. giving plumbing advice, yeah thats not gunna end badly =p
@@Mutantroosta.Gaming Sparky is just my trade. I'm not just a one hit wonder. Muscle cars, diesel mechanics, 4x4, framing, plumbing, mill work, welding. That's why I like this channel
Agree. I've used Al tube for this on my projects.
I don't watch Chris because he nails it the first time, every time. I watch Chris because he shows what problems he has ran into building this or building that and shows us the solution he has came up with to solve said problems. And he takes us along for the upgrades he makes after lightly thrashing it and identifying any weak points in the design.
And I concur with you Chris.....push/pull cable systems suck ass. It never fails, if you dont pack those lines with grease, that "stainless steel" cable will rust right in the center of the line and break unless it never gets doused in water. And if its a push/pull system thats used constantly, like, say, a shifter cable, you have to grease those lines every 5th time you take it out and trail ride it. Boo!
With linkages all ya gotta do is just oil em every couple of years. Yay!
Looking good Chris!!! Lets gooooo!!
I have to agree with some of the other commenters, add kind of a barb/lip around the steel tubing for the radiator lines, otherwise it is possible, even with the clamps really tight for the pressure to potentially blow the lines off. Might not happen at idle, but could happen going down the trails. Also, this time get a temperature probe that fits in the radiator fins to kick the fan on as needed. Also get a good water temperature gauge, probably a digital/LED one and not a mechanical analog type that could possibly bounce around on rough trails. That way you know if you need to allow it to cool down. Should help avoid catastrophic engine failure like what happened on the CBR1000 project.
Yeah this is how I feel when I change my own oil… lol… much respect for anyone with the skill and patience to do this much. 💪💪
This is proper engineering!!! This is the kind of problem solving i love to do and watch. Congrats dude you are the man.
This could be the most impressive thing I’ve ever seen on TH-cam
You're right about the pump being a loop, the orientation of the truck on a hill won't mess with it's performance... on the other hand what will affect the performance is the friction loss from the length of pipes the coolant has to go through. A Hayabusa definitely has less piping to push the coolant through but there must have been some excess of power in the water pump. Maybe once you have the engine running you could put temporarily splice a fitting into the line with a flow meter and see if it's reasonable compared to what the engine needs. Should be a relatively quick check if you do it that way. Great video man you're a bona-fide engineer at this point
You're gonna have to use an extra pump for the coolant for sure. Well(d) done so far Chris! 😁👍
I love when people who know nothing about a topic provide insight to literal experts. TH-cam is the best!
@@eriklarson9137 Stated 'Im no expert in fluid dynamics' I say add a pump for extra measure
Better safe than sorry
The closed loop system will negate the gravity on the system…but pumping the extra distance will make the system have a little more friction…I would want to bevel the edges of the 1” tube to prevent eddies and turbulent pressure on the fittings…also I would use double pipe clamp where ever you can because the pipes done have barbs on them…as alway great build it’s looking great 👍
It will eventually RUST inside those cooling tubes, and will damage radiator and motor. This is why you don't find any steel tubes in any of cars. Hoses, plastic or aluminium is the way to go.
Awesome build !!! Loving it.
The thing I enjoy most about your channel is watching you come up with unique solutions to unique problems.
Who else is dying to hear this badass chain system when its all done?? I can't wait! It's either gonna sound like a badass chainsaw or its gonna sound like rocks in a dryer. Lol!
Haha
That thing is gonna rattle like crazy off road. I love the creativity of these projects though!
I said morse cables in the last video but wow. I like what you built. Very functional. When I'm building stuff I have to ask myself, " how would rather be welding do this"? You must be so excited about this build.
I'm with you on shifters, Chris. To my mind, using cables is always problematic. Getting the right amount of stiffness without losing any of the 'feel' of it all, and the cable ends seem to always break and at just the wrong time too.
Great , and as always, your fabrication and problem solving skills are second to none. Can't wait for your next video!
I've recently got bored with other TH-cam channels, but without fail, I always look forward to Sunday evening uploads from Chris. I love all your work and how you make everything is just incredible... keep up the awesome work.. from your number 1 uk fan 😊
Thanks ! Your idea of adding another pivot point to fix the flex of the arm at 1:35 is exactly what I need to fix my home made cargo bike that has a too flexy control arm !
That was genius ! Thanks again for the idea ! :)
Can’t street the “from scratch” part enough
I like how meticulous he is about everything he builds
Do your thing my guy muscle💪🏾
That linkage turned out RAD. I think u made the right calls. Simple & durable
If your coolant is in a closed loop with no air bubbles, then there will never be a problem for the pump as long as it can move what is in the loop.
Love your videos! Binge Worthy! Only thing that bumps me out about your videos, the fact that we live close and frequent the same places yet I will never get to see these in person.
Iv been following this dude for soooo long now its crazy. I came in when he was doing his reverse trike thing. Love this dude channel. Hope he never drops ❤😅
You 100% need to turbo this thing. Everything about it is insane, i think that motor will fall short of the rest of it. With a turbo, the coolness and craziness will be consistant through and through.
Hey bro, I love fabricating mechanical devices also, and I can't stop thinking how cool it would be to work with you at your place, and really just pick your brain about making parts and integrating them into a project. Cuz you are mad genius in the fabrication realm!!! I love how you show your trial and error, but there's barely any error!!! Keep it up brotha, your just a cool dude!
Your water pump will be fine, it’s a transfer pump not a lift pump.
As you said, what is going out is also being returned.
The steel pipes will radiate some of the heat out of the system also.
Cool build mate, she’ll be a bit of a weapon.
I do think she needs a spoolie boi boost snail to force feed some air into it.
Catchya next week mate. 🤙
Never a dull moment when you have a video come on we learn more and more on how to build linkage you sure have lots on this build . Your a wize at building anything you put your mind to
Been waiting to see the ‘full tunnel’….WELL DONE!
One of the great things about using steel tubing for radiator lines is that it will dissipate heat acting like a small secondary radiator.
You are a serious minded person. Good inventory.👍
Screw the cables!
I think the linkages are more reliable. And I love the way they work! I've been watching you for years and I've enjoyed watching how far you've come. You fabricate basically every part you use to build with.
You're an Awesome Fabricator Chris. I enjoy watching you build brother. Keep up all the good work and Thanks for sharing your builds.
Nice build 👍. Yes I would mount all your water pipes on rubber to help with vibration crack's on the system plus definitely add an extra water pump just to be sure enough water is being moved to actually move enough water around the motor 👍
4 small hydraulic cylinders would work to convert the H pattern back to correct by how you run the lines connecting the system. It could also be done with electric solenoids like from the power locks on older cars and a small circuit board to program what each button does and both of those options fit the theme of the project. Hydraulic cylinders like the locker setup and junk yard shopping spree for door lock solenoids so either one would work but I think the hydraulic option would be better because there is nothing to go bad except a oil leak.
Nice work on the shifter! But Chris don't weld the cooling pipe to the frame, if the weld breaks you got a cooling leak. Just use a hose clamp on the pipe.
I would suggest installing a fan in the tunnel and adding some fins to the steel lines. This would cooling capacity, might as well with all that line and would help keep the tunnel from being heated up. I think without that, your aluminum panels would be too hot to touch after it's good and warmed up.
Shouldn’t have a problem with your coolant lines. I have an 08 r1 in my very built 06 Yamaha rhino, running a Honda civic radiator in front. I ran steel pipe the same way you did. 6 years with no issues. I know a lot of people recommending welding a “bead ring” around the ends of the steel tubes. While that is a great idea and for sure would help, I don’t have those on mine and mine are even powder coated. I overheated the motor during a race at 260 degrees and didn’t have any issues. I better knock on wood! Lol. Keep up the good content! This whole build is making me want to rip mine all down again and add reverse haha.
I like that it has a chain drive. Something different than everyone builds
I'm stoked you figured out the shifter. I still think maybe a combination of cables into a linkage would've been much smoother and far quieter. Like cables straight back towards the transmission into a linkage right at the trans. Then you wouldn't have all that clunking around reverberating through the chassis. It's not my build though and I support your decision lol. As for the cooling system you could always put a louvered panel at the start of the tunnel so that it'll scoop cooler air into the tunnel and then put the rear of the tunnel.
Use a 12v actuator for the four wheel drive it'll clean up the column and won't be able to accidentally engage or disengage
About the cooling pipes, aluminium pipes will prevent galvanic currents that will eat your aluminium radiator and engine block.
It would be cool to have the 2/4wd switch on the vertical part of the center console, that would also visualize very clearly if youre in 2 or 4wd.
Nice work polishing the ol' knob, son!
Angle the shift handles so can move forward? Thought pattern is normally R+top left, 1+bottom left, 2+top right, 3+bottom right? Use joints same as steering (hime?) on secondary trans linkage. Then L bracket to change direction? Maybe use thin wall pipe and put hose through it?
Those satisfying clunks! I can't wait to see you ripping through the great outdoors on this new monster!
that is how most side by sides move coolant to the front and they dont have to use a secondary pump. I think you will be fine how it is. nice work.
Damn...that is one complex shifter...nice work.
I understand now why you don't like to use cabling. All your points makes so much sense. Friction complicated weakness. All of those issues. And I like the way you solve the sideways h pattern. Brilliant 🔥
That linkage is a work of art, it really takes some working out to get it right. Top job sir.
Some great engineering on the shifting linkage Chris.
Chris your frggin genius loved your solutions to the shifters and radiator issues 👍👍
That shifter linkage is fkn epic, I am very impressed but my concern for the radiator is if that pipe will rust internally..... Hoping he treats the inside w/ some bluing or something so the inside doesn't get nasty really fast, that could make some serious issues if it rusts then clogs the radiator core. I can't wait to see what this looks like when it's done, it has some serious potential to be one of the most capable vehicles he's made.... Also looking forward to another electric build. 😁👍❤️
Antifreeze when mixed 50/50 contains a rust inhibitor. The only reason why you may see rust form in coolant systems is because it has been ran beyond it's service life, it should be just fine otherwise
Make the shift levers gated. Removes all doubt
@1/2-1" in from the ends of the metal tubes you should weld a bead around them and smooth it so the hoses won't pop off.The radiator fan looks like it'll blow down the channel some,so that'll help.Great work Chris.We'll hear it run in no time now.
You sure have a talent for this stuff, such cool work man.
You could always put a piece of pipe insulation over the hot pipe, or both, if heat is an issue. An extra pump will likely be needed, switched on by hot temp. Any expansion from the pipes should be mitigated by the radiator flexible hoses, also they will help with any bending stresses, so I think that was a good solution. You’ll likely want to add some small barbs to the pipe to keep the hoses on, but that’s really for if you get the system up to full temp, that could give you a blow out from that pressure…
Nice work!
Chris, Rube Goldberg would be so proud! But tell me, where does the mouse go? 😂
Seriously, though. Fantastic skills! 👍
A++ for your levers and linkages! Well, Done!!
its looking amazing and you defo have the right mindset look for problems before they happen
only thing i would change with the coolant pipes, is weld a bead near the end so that the hose and clamp have something to brace against so the hose doesnt blow off.
Good work man! Only thing I’m worried about with the cooling system is the inside rusting and clogging up the cooler. May wanna coat it in something. Also hopefully your pump is strong enough to force the fluid to that distance and back. Love this build keep it up!
Car manufacturers have been using steel for decades.
If you got into 3d printing or even bought some delrin for your lathe you could make plastic bushings for the linkages on the shifters making them alot more quiet and less rattly...
Good progress. Top-hat bushes are ideal for bolted pivots, Igus sells them in low friction plastic. You'd need smaller diameter bolts to refit yours to get the shift linkage less sloppy
Larger pipe...use a universal joint to rotate the shaft for lateral movement (x axis) maybe and length to move the shifter in the y axis. it might take to u-joints to bend the 90 degree to keep the action smooth. Just a thought.
Your linkage systems are awesome! I’ve thought push button shifting would be awesome to put on a project like this. Still engineering involved but ultimately less moving parts in the cockpit! Keep up the great work!
I agree. A simple actuator would probably be easy to setup for the 2x4/4x4 lever since it's just "on/off" essentially. This is overkill for this but a good example of what could be used: th-cam.com/video/hbqrHvyOiLs/w-d-xo.html
Honestly my favorite time of the week getting to sit down ND watch your videos. Love it dude. I'm loving how this machine is coming together, glad you went the way you did with the H shifter
what an absolute unit.... can't wait to see it rip
Absolutely amazing wrk. Looks great. You are still going to have to make the long chain into 2 chains by adding jack shaft as I can not see that long chain wrkn it is going to skip unless it doesn’t have enough room to physically skip but that’s going to be friction. It’s going to skip unless you physically put something to not allow chain to skip but the friction will be ridiculous.
Look into using a Saginaw 3 speed car transmission next time. It has 2 linkages like the motorcycle does, and they are pretty compact.
You could add a second pump at the radiator (or between two smaller rads) pushing it back to the motor and let the motor's pump push it to the radiator, especially if you run smaller dual rads given the room you have to install them. Another idea, what about taking those tunnel walls and adding venting slots or punching some louver ones to let the heat out naturally.
I think all that shifting linkage is bad ass . Your a great fabricator. The more I watch you , the worse I think I am. Only built 1 toy rock crawler & a pre runner truck . Well living close to the hammers ( koh ) ca desert
Something that I thought about. Why not use a push/pull solenoid for the up shift and down shift portion of your build and the incorporate that into your transmission shift handle.
If you channel some of the air from the fan into the tunnel you shouldn't have to worry about it heating up. Also you might need to look at a lower temp thermostat since the water traveling through the pipes might be colder than is normal for a bike.
You should look into doing cantilever linkages. It'll help simplify making straight line motions turn 90° to another straight line motion
Another thing is that you may need to add an external water pump to drive all that extra volume of coolant with those added pipes to properly cool. Especially with as high as that radiator is compared to where the pipes are ran. You gotta push all that coolant uphill and the stock pump might not be up to the task of moving that much since it was never designed to move that much
In a closed coolant system under pressure the coolant will act kind of like a hydraulic fluid to push it through. Gravity pushing it back down the other side of the radiator shouldn't have much of an impact because of the pressure in the system. It impacts the efficiency of flow through the radiator. Just not through the whole system. Ideally you'd want it to pump up to the highest point and return from the lowest. It would be less strain on the pump. If you pumped it to the lowest point, then the pump has to deal with the weight of all the coolant in the system from the top of the radiator to where the pump discharges. But if you pump it to the top it only has to deal with the weight in the pipes. Then gravity feeds it from there with the pressure behind it. Although if an air pocket would be able to form, the top down flow might cause more problems with creating air pockets in the radiator
I would put a pump in it. It's getting worked a hell of a lot harder. You should install a fan to blow through the trans/chain tunnel too. Just a beefy computer type would probably do you a favor sending a nice breeze through there. Have you thought about a heat system? Some toe warmers...
External coolant pump would be a good idea. Something like a davis craig.
A good linkage is a very satisfying thing to craft. I would echo some of the comments below about using ball ends or heims in all pivots for less slop. You can find them is various sizes and with anti-friction bushings. I agree with your views on cables.
Was gonna say for the secondary trans.. look at how the poesche 924 shifter is... its a rear transaxle with a front motor. They use a l shaped shift rod hooked to the shifter. The forward and back operate at the end of the L and the forward and back on the top just before the L
Great job on the shift buddy!
Chris I've seen people integrate the coolant lines into the frame tubing with a little planning ahead 👌
I mean. I have drag cars with H patterns transmission and they run just cables from the shifter to the trans. I never had issues and I bang those gears like I mean it. I would give the cables one last try to this nice project 💪 keep it up!
great progress, getting excited to see this machine in action 👍🏻
Kiss method, man. Keep up the good work and videos you make.
How about, for your next project, get hold of a still running wrecked jeep, use the frame to set up a jig to locate all the suspension pickup points & drive train components etc. and then build a buggy from that? Also when climbing and descending obstacles, the coolant will have a high-pressure area and a low pressure area, relying on the engines pump to push the Coolant that far uphill may blow gaskets out, so a pump away from the engine is needed, but then when going down hill the radiator pressure may be high enough to make the cap release pressure and no coolant will make it back to the engine, so a pump at the Radiator outlet will be needed as well, I would be putting in pressure gauges at both the inlet and outlet of the engine, to see if the pressure is rising to gasket blowing levels and going into slight negatives and starving the engine of coolant
We need to see you sending this build through the air!!
Hey man awesome :)
i got a sweet tip for ya, Have nylon washers and nylon stock home so you can remove rattle noises where it is possible your ears will thank you :D
Also if you are doing hardline tubing how about adding fans too give heat from those locations seem fitting ? you can have a smaller tube that heats up small radiator that you can control the flow with a flowdial (regulator?) knob... as a thermal control of flow and some sheet welded to give some tunnels and fans to give the flow to where it needs to go. i mean would be kinda nice if it is a cold day.
Hi Chris you have done exactly what I would have done with the coolant hoses running in the tunnels and I can tell you from cars I know that do this like the hillman imp is fine it will be the perfect solution and wont affect anything and many more cars i know of and have worked on so a great idea and solution mate love the gear linkage as you have said cables are a nightmare always stretching and having to be adjusted all the time and the snap your system will withstand an atom bomb a great solution and will last test of time cant wait to see this on the trail rock crawling all the best from John from Rugby UK.
I have mentioned before and I know you don’t like push pull cables but grab the shifter box out of around a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta it’ll change your mind on the cables
I salute you for that amazing shifter linkage solution you crafted. Your kung fu is very strong. 🧐 Looking forward to seeing this project running.
With the radiator that far away I would seriously consider putting in a electric water it will help with the cooling no matter what I know you're going to be running it up and down hills it will definitely help that stock water will not be able to move that much water and it will help
It never ceases to amaze me when I see all the expert fabricators in Chris's comment section. I can't WAIT to see all of them start channels and start uploading! Since they no so much they feel comfortable giving Chris advice! WOOHOO!!
Good way to put holes in your seat is welding next to them, and you know they make high miss alignment shift cables right?
For off road buggy should look into finding older honda goldwing engine larger displacement some have reverse newer ones fuel injected, shaft drive,gave good size alt it be awesome for size and weight the vehicle becomes and have great low end torque and parts availability great be cool to see u build a mini truck straight axel buggy, four link front back should checkout some people that build mini crawlers to get inspiration keep up great work and have great day.
You could have used the tube that makes up your tunnel as the coolant pipes. Just a space saving option in the future. That's more of a from the beginning plan than a quick fix
Man another awesome video. This is really going to a sweet busa x4 buggy. Fantastic job. Your an amazing fabricator. Can't wait to see you riding this beast.
Hey bro, you may need to run a electric water pump with this setup. Don’t think that little pump on the sports bike will push the coolant up there efficiently. But it’s coming along great man!