If you put the radiator in the back, just use the rad you have, and use a rear view camera to see behind you. Your side mirrors, if you choose to use them, can be traditional mirrors, but the center "mirror" can use an add on rear view camera and a screen mounted to the dash. The radiator in the front could really make the passengers hot in warm weather, but the heat could be a bonus on cooler days, or night driving. Have you considered an HVAC system? Maybe a H/AC system? An H system?
Great job on drilling holes to allow water to drain out of that electrical compartment. Most people that design and build anything that will be out in the elements will tell you that it's much more important that you design a way for the water to escape than to try and prevent the water from making in inside of something. Sealing water out of an enclosure is damn near impossible. Most of the time what happens is we think we have made it "waterproof" only to discover much later that all we did was prevent the water from escaping. Great job on the build Chris!! Can't wait to see it's first proper outing and full rip!!
@@rikityrikI'll tell you what, he's pushed that shed farther than I would've thought possible. It helps he keeps his machining tools in the garage lol.
@@Rattus-Norvegicus he sure has. And as someone who doesn’t have a garage or large workshop it’s been kind of inspiring too me. My shed is my castle. Lol
A re pinning kit would be a great addition to your tool kit, so that you don't have to splice wires to use factory plugs, when you can just de pin and then replace the pin with a fresh pin and crimp it then push it back into the connector, removing any bulkiness from have to use connectors.
What about installing a little fan to draw heat out of the electrical box? You can install a simple thermostat or temp gauge so when the box hits a certain preset temp…the fan turns on.
Ever see an old pic of a machine shop from like the 1900's? A zillion belts, pulleys, gears, chains, etc all over the place. Kind of looks like this. Just kidding! 😁 Love your projects! 👍👍
The most important part of waterproofing a case like that is to drill drain holes and have a breather. Temperature change will suck in moist and and it can form water inside.
How magnificent to have it start up the first time quick and easy!?!?! I loved seeing you walking around trying to find something wrong and seeing nothing to fix!!!
Many of the newer vehicles have a "safety feature" where the clutch needs to be depressed before you start the engine. Its annoying, but you get used to it after a while. As for the radiator, I'm an advocate of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Its working right now, so how about leaving it as is for now and only changing it if it becomes an issue. Tbh, I believe the radiator at the front would offer better cooling and your hard work on setting sturdy coolant channels shouldn't go to waste! This is your build however, so while I have my opinions, do what you feel is best, its YOUR project, after all
You could get the machine running and turn on everything and put an AMP clamp on the battery wire and crank it over and that should give you the max amprage.
That wiring is a project by itself! But you're adding to your skills. And for sure, the power train will be a _lot_ quieter when it's under load and not chattering.
That wiring loom is a little closer to those flailing chains than I would probably have planned. I'm looking forward to seeing how it runs on the trails.
It did take awhile as things usually do ,the smile you had when it ran was priceless . You took your time ,did it right and it paid off .another great video!!!
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼………………………………………….if I remember correctly, my 2005 Hayabusa, would start in neutral and with the clutch pulled, BUT if you let out the clutch with the kickstand down, it would kill the engine. Maybe that’s part of your starting with the clutch engaged problem!?!?!?
The star looking thing is used to hold the filter sock onto the pump. There is a plastic bump that the filter sock locates on to and then the Star looking thing goes on to make sure the sock doesn’t fall off.
I thought you were gonna jank up some wiring, just due to the volume. I didnt expect it to be sooo good, much less genuinely satisfying to watch. But i have made some jank harnesses, because i know the frustration of making a good one.
Super cool. With 2 mufflers, might not need to remove baffles. Maybe add UHMW tracks for the full length of center chain. I'm guessing if there is a long arc, for the full length, than no need to encapsulate the whole way. All to stop chain flap. Will you be adding bolt on roll cage to protect top of engine & fuel cell?
star little thinkie from the new fuel pump slides over the retaining dowel or pin for the sock filter on the base of the pump. It acts as a retainer to prevent the sock filter from falling off
ooh maaaan ! ... as an electronics engineer.... I can really feel the amount of effort you gave to connecting all of those wires .... very satisfying to see the work like that.... huge respect 🫡
Make some splash guards ore mud guards over the wheels that move with your wheels. Problem solved. And never stop using that gorgeous music it’s mesmerizing and it fits your style just like rest of your ingenuity. I can’t wait to see this at machine at work. Keep it up master builder. BTW chains are still clashes against the top of the chain guard probably because of the length.
Make a digital rear view mirror. Reversing cam and a screen mounted in a box thing where the mirror would normally go... Or a great foundation for that could be the new raspberry pi5 and the newest Pi cam. It has much improved i/o and could make a pretty slick and robust gadget :)
So happy for you Chris.The wiring system was shockingly complicated,but you conquered it.The syringe vacuums will be trouble,but at least you proved the entire system works Awesome !
I like this project. Nice job getting all the wires connected to the correct place. FYI fuses or breakers are suppose to protect the wires that they feed. I did not see any wires in your rig that can carry 200 amps which means if any of them short out they will catch on firs long before that breaker blows Im pretty sure 100amp breaker should be plenty. Than a wire capable of 100 amps should br run from the breaker to the fuse box from there the branch circuit should have wire capable of carring the same as the fuse for that circuit.
You should swap the radiator and gas tank so you have easier plumbing on the radiator and more gasoline for longer range..... Awesome video and build, can't wait to see it out in its natural habitat. 😁👍
With suzuki motors they always require a clutch switch to start it is part of the safety switches on the starting wire harness, it should be a grounded switch. you should be able to bypass it by having the clutch switch wires connected together.
Awesome video as always. I'm glad to see you stepping up your game on the electrical. Its definitely something to be proud of as so few people do it right.
As always Chris life’s busy but always glad to come back on here and binge watch a few episodes. This one being really great. Just to see the pure joy in your face on hearing that engine that you rebuilt start up, and purr away in that buggy that you built from scratch. Really shows how much passion and care you have. Top work as always. Looking forward to you testing it out. 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
I wouldn’t use the circuit breaker on the starter only the other accessories. A starter does pull lots of cranking amps momentarily probably over 100A. A circuit breaker that is too large won’t protect anything
congrats for getting the engine running! happy to see the build reach up to this point, after quiet some time. looking forward for the first test drive, great work man
I am So happy for you! That feeling of seeing the project run the first time is incredible. One thing you might want to check is the speed difference between your front tires and your back tires. If they're different, you're going to break things quickly. 4 wheel drive vehicles run the same gear ratio on the front and rear tires. It looks like your front tires are spinning a little faster. This will stress everything on the front wheel drive because it will constantly be trying to pull the back wheels. Since the long chain in the middle is the weakest link ;) it will likely split within the first few major pulls under load. Be careful. This is a great project and I know you want to get it right. You're doing awesome!
Wow, haven't ever been this early to one of your videos Chris! They're pretty much the only thing I'm looking forward to every Sunday. Keep it up man 👍
When your on, your on. Awesome work with the wiring. You could always test for coolant flow before changing your cooling setup, but I think you’ve made up your mind about it, and I don’t necessarily disagree. A frunk on that car would be good. I’d definitely cover the inside with a foam liner though. My quad has a trunk and anything that goes in there comes out busted and rock tumbled, even if you fill in the empty space. Can’t wait to see how you handle the body panels and doors on this beauty. Thank you!
Kind of looked like the clutch was dragging with no load on it- which made your secondary trans hard to get into gear. Maybe have the motorcycle trans in neutral when shifting the secondary tran
Absolutely brilliant build, I can't wait to see you ripping around in it! Your engineering skills are really a credit to you, but and it's only a small but, don't let yourself look silly because you haven't experienced or read about something technical within the motorcycle side of your builds. Knowing you have to pull the clutch in to start it, but not knowing why is the kind of thing I mean.
This is how I feel about running the wires. The wires that Has anything to do with the sparkplugs coil packs I would have run them in a diff wiring horns by there self. To keep any frequency get crossed . Unless your using wire ACDELCO - 357 A . Just wondering if you used A wire it won't cause no miss fire.
Engaging the clutch before strating up is a build in safety feature of this (and many other) engines. It's not a bad thing. You already explained in another video why you prefer chains, but still.... looks way to clunky. A driveshaft would give you way moere longevity on this vehicle. Might run even betetr if you sync the carbs.
Chris, this is by far the cleanest and well thought out wiring job you’ve done on this channel. I know it was A LOT of work but it was absolutely worth it. Well done sir! 🙌🏼
Awesome stuff! You could start from an already 4x4 drive train and build from that up. I believe that with a bit of research on your behalf you'd be 100% capable of building your own trophy truck. Pick a basic v8 with a lot of upgrade potential and keep the build cheap! We need a channel long time project! Regardles, I like your content in general and can't to see what comes next! Cheers
That's sorta going away from the whole premise of his channel. which is not to build full sized vehicles, but rather to build smaller vehicles. he's already up against the limit on this vehicle. if he were to build larger vehicles? that would put him in a different category of YT builders.
Most of the time a starters main power doesn't have a circuit breaker. Because you would need a massive one (in most cases). The only wire to a starter that should have a fuse/breaker is the signal wire from the ignition
I love this build, Chris. if I was you id leave the radiator up front, I think it looks way nicer than on the top of the engine. It should cool fine up there as long as it's bled of all air. but it's just my opinion.
You might consider making Teflon lined chain guides…like a timing chain on an engine…curved with tensioner on the slack side…it will greatly reduce chain slap/noise…
I’m sure the main shifter works fine but if it were a pistol-grip(MOPAR style) that would be some nice eye candy for the interior…just a thought! Keep up the great work Chris 👍
It's ALIVE! Awesome job, Chris. Hopefully, it performs as well as it looks. I'm excited to see you trail riding. I'm also curious how you're going to make a vacuum for the hubs. All your hard work has paid off. Awesome video. See you next week.
He might run into an issue with it not being able to reach normal operating temperature. because of the extra capacity of the cooling system. and on computer controlled engines that might set off the check engine light. because the computer could think there's a bad cooling system Temp. sensor. on a non computerized engine I'd say leave it the way it is. the extra cooling system capacity is a great bonus to have. however computer controlled engines have certain parameters. that have to adhered to for the computer to work properly.
If you put the radiator in the back, just use the rad you have, and use a rear view camera to see behind you. Your side mirrors, if you choose to use them, can be traditional mirrors, but the center "mirror" can use an add on rear view camera and a screen mounted to the dash. The radiator in the front could really make the passengers hot in warm weather, but the heat could be a bonus on cooler days, or night driving. Have you considered an HVAC system? Maybe a H/AC system? An H system?
Great job on drilling holes to allow water to drain out of that electrical compartment. Most people that design and build anything that will be out in the elements will tell you that it's much more important that you design a way for the water to escape than to try and prevent the water from making in inside of something.
Sealing water out of an enclosure is damn near impossible. Most of the time what happens is we think we have made it "waterproof" only to discover much later that all we did was prevent the water from escaping.
Great job on the build Chris!! Can't wait to see it's first proper outing and full rip!!
Gone are the days of a simple predator or tillotsen engine with it's simple wiring. Persistence pays. You always do good work.
Yeah, I reckon the quaint workshop will be gone soon too.
@@rikityrikI'll tell you what, he's pushed that shed farther than I would've thought possible. It helps he keeps his machining tools in the garage lol.
@@Rattus-Norvegicus he sure has. And as someone who doesn’t have a garage or large workshop it’s been kind of inspiring too me. My shed is my castle. Lol
Things are looking good! Maybe you can make a bracket/mount for a power lock actuator to move your vacuum tubes, and have that button operated?
A re pinning kit would be a great addition to your tool kit, so that you don't have to splice wires to use factory plugs, when you can just de pin and then replace the pin with a fresh pin and crimp it then push it back into the connector, removing any bulkiness from have to use connectors.
Was thinking same thing
That's a good thought 👍💯
He has come a long way, imagine another 10 years how much more advanced he will be. SELF TAUGHT !
Well done. It's an awesome machine. Your neighbor will be happy again. 😂
i think you should keep the radiator in the front, a few cooling tubes and a few hoses isn't a big deal and it looks alot better in my opinion
A bit too late. I already moved the radiator to the back
What about installing a little fan to draw heat out of the electrical box? You can install a simple thermostat or temp gauge so when the box hits a certain preset temp…the fan turns on.
Proud to see it ready to rip!! Send it !!
Ever see an old pic of a machine shop from like the 1900's? A zillion belts, pulleys, gears, chains, etc all over the place. Kind of looks like this. Just kidding! 😁 Love your projects! 👍👍
The most important part of waterproofing a case like that is to drill drain holes and have a breather. Temperature change will suck in moist and and it can form water inside.
He did talk about drain holes in the bottom. I'd imagine "flappers" or vents with hinged rubber splash guards would be a good addition!
I'm sure he'll take care of all these "common sense" things..
You do mighty big things from a mighty small shop👍
Those rear view camera kits are way better than they used to be
The left over part on the fuel pump is used to push over the stud that holds the fuel pump strainer in place.
It should be okay until he gets some dirty fuel or sucks some dirt past that strainer.
How magnificent to have it start up the first time quick and easy!?!?!
I loved seeing you walking around trying to find something wrong and seeing nothing to fix!!!
Many of the newer vehicles have a "safety feature" where the clutch needs to be depressed before you start the engine. Its annoying, but you get used to it after a while.
As for the radiator, I'm an advocate of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Its working right now, so how about leaving it as is for now and only changing it if it becomes an issue.
Tbh, I believe the radiator at the front would offer better cooling and your hard work on setting sturdy coolant channels shouldn't go to waste!
This is your build however, so while I have my opinions, do what you feel is best, its YOUR project, after all
Always the highlight of my Sunday! Keep it up Chris 🤘
I haven't missed a video in years. I love how much of a perfectionist you are. Great job. Keep it up!!
Other than all the chain slap, that build is awesome!
You could get the machine running and turn on everything and put an AMP clamp on the battery wire and crank it over and that should give you the max amprage.
That wiring is a project by itself! But you're adding to your skills. And for sure, the power train will be a _lot_ quieter when it's under load and not chattering.
Gotta be a great feeling to have everything work on something you hand made the first time you start it. Great job Chris.
Always a great feeling when you run and hook up a huge amount of wiring and everything works. Wheeew!
That wiring loom is a little closer to those flailing chains than I would probably have planned. I'm looking forward to seeing how it runs on the trails.
It did take awhile as things usually do ,the smile you had when it ran was priceless . You took your time ,did it right and it paid off .another great video!!!
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼………………………………………….if I remember correctly, my 2005 Hayabusa, would start in neutral and with the clutch pulled, BUT if you let out the clutch with the kickstand down, it would kill the engine. Maybe that’s part of your starting with the clutch engaged problem!?!?!?
Great to see a smile on your dial. Great work as always Chris.
The star looking thing is used to hold the filter sock onto the pump. There is a plastic bump that the filter sock locates on to and then the Star looking thing goes on to make sure the sock doesn’t fall off.
I thought you were gonna jank up some wiring, just due to the volume. I didnt expect it to be sooo good, much less genuinely satisfying to watch.
But i have made some jank harnesses, because i know the frustration of making a good one.
Your doing just a Fabulous job on your electrical box and your Dash board
Take it for a ride and show us.. good job !
chain drive system is way quieter than I thought it would be, cool to see it working!
Wow. You have 1000 times more patience than I have.
Super cool.
With 2 mufflers, might not need to remove baffles.
Maybe add UHMW tracks for the full length of center chain. I'm guessing if there is a long arc, for the full length, than no need to encapsulate the whole way. All to stop chain flap.
Will you be adding bolt on roll cage to protect top of engine & fuel cell?
star little thinkie from the new fuel pump slides over the retaining dowel or pin for the sock filter on the base of the pump. It acts as a retainer to prevent the sock filter from falling off
Definitely gonna need chain tensioners to help get rid of that slop
All credit to you sorting all those wires out and getting it all working.
Awesome! What a great feeling to hear it finally running after all that work!!!!
Thanks man
ooh maaaan ! ... as an electronics engineer.... I can really feel the amount of effort you gave to connecting all of those wires .... very satisfying to see the work like that.... huge respect 🫡
Few rolling chain guides will probably help the clunky too but this is great progress
Make some splash guards ore mud guards over the wheels that move with your wheels.
Problem solved.
And never stop using that gorgeous music it’s mesmerizing and it fits your style just like rest of your ingenuity.
I can’t wait to see this at machine at work.
Keep it up master builder.
BTW chains are still clashes against the top of the chain guard probably because of the length.
It runs, when you fired that motor up, I cheered with you. It runs.... Great work man. I am inspired. I watched all the episodes. You rock..
Make a digital rear view mirror. Reversing cam and a screen mounted in a box thing where the mirror would normally go... Or a great foundation for that could be the new raspberry pi5 and the newest Pi cam. It has much improved i/o and could make a pretty slick and robust gadget :)
So happy for you Chris.The wiring system was shockingly complicated,but you conquered it.The syringe vacuums will be trouble,but at least you proved the entire system works Awesome !
for a guy who doesn't "like" wiring, you're doing a awesome job💪
That smile on your face was worth the wait. This is an awesome build, cant wait to see you riding it around.
Keep up the good work man
16:47 Average Carbon Monoxide Enjoyer 🕶️
Such a bitter sweet moment - seeing those wheels turn is such an accomplishment but also marks the final stages of the build
Keep the radiator in the front. All side by sides have the radiator up from and it looks cooler.
I like this project. Nice job getting all the wires connected to the correct place. FYI fuses or breakers are suppose to protect the wires that they feed. I did not see any wires in your rig that can carry 200 amps which means if any of them short out they will catch on firs long before that breaker blows Im pretty sure 100amp breaker should be plenty. Than a wire capable of 100 amps should br run from the breaker to the fuse box from there the branch circuit should have wire capable of carring the same as the fuse for that circuit.
You should swap the radiator and gas tank so you have easier plumbing on the radiator and more gasoline for longer range..... Awesome video and build, can't wait to see it out in its natural habitat. 😁👍
With suzuki motors they always require a clutch switch to start it is part of the safety switches on the starting wire harness, it should be a grounded switch. you should be able to bypass it by having the clutch switch wires connected together.
Awesome video as always. I'm glad to see you stepping up your game on the electrical. Its definitely something to be proud of as so few people do it right.
As always Chris life’s busy but always glad to come back on here and binge watch a few episodes. This one being really great. Just to see the pure joy in your face on hearing that engine that you rebuilt start up, and purr away in that buggy that you built from scratch. Really shows how much passion and care you have. Top work as always. Looking forward to you testing it out. 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
That long chain run down the middle looks like Meat grinder if it ever got spit off. Like a Saw spiting it's chain! Got chaps?
I'm from Indonesia, I like your content❤
Hell yeah! Congratulations of the thing's birth! 😂
Always doing great when you have extra pieces left over
Remove that thing and send it to the full RPM 🔥🔥 love the noise that inject me adrenaline 💯🔥💪
This kart is very awesome! good job man!
I wouldn’t use the circuit breaker on the starter only the other accessories. A starter does pull lots of cranking amps momentarily probably over 100A. A circuit breaker that is too large won’t protect anything
congrats for getting the engine running! happy to see the build reach up to this point, after quiet some time. looking forward for the first test drive, great work man
That wiring is so satisfying 👌
Love this build! My fav so far
Hey Chris! Really happy to see you doing a custom wiring harness for this project… I know it’s your favorite part 😉
Looks great glad to see it finally running
ABSOLUTELY
INCREDIBLE
CHRIS!!!
What An Amazing
Accomplishment!
Congratulations!
Can't wait to see
The First Ride!!!
☮️🔧🔩
After so much work seeing that smile when it fires up is amazing 👍, the wiring alone would have caused me a lifetimes anxiety 🤣
its soooooooo satisfying to hear it running
Great job Chris. With all the chain you have on this project I think you should name it ChainSaw
I am So happy for you! That feeling of seeing the project run the first time is incredible.
One thing you might want to check is the speed difference between your front tires and your back tires. If they're different, you're going to break things quickly. 4 wheel drive vehicles run the same gear ratio on the front and rear tires. It looks like your front tires are spinning a little faster. This will stress everything on the front wheel drive because it will constantly be trying to pull the back wheels. Since the long chain in the middle is the weakest link ;) it will likely split within the first few major pulls under load.
Be careful. This is a great project and I know you want to get it right. You're doing awesome!
I used snowmobile track sliders, hyfax"s, on a project to control chain slap
Wow, haven't ever been this early to one of your videos Chris! They're pretty much the only thing I'm looking forward to every Sunday. Keep it up man 👍
Hot glue will water resist. It's cheap and easy to redo. Works on R/C car wiring.
I have no clue as far as it comes to car mechanical and engineering stuff. I'm just happy that you are making progress on this project
Awesome Bro, sounds and looks badass
Hey don't forget to paint this art after you finish please 💪🔥💯
When your on, your on. Awesome work with the wiring.
You could always test for coolant flow before changing your cooling setup, but I think you’ve made up your mind about it, and I don’t necessarily disagree.
A frunk on that car would be good. I’d definitely cover the inside with a foam liner though. My quad has a trunk and anything that goes in there comes out busted and rock tumbled, even if you fill in the empty space.
Can’t wait to see how you handle the body panels and doors on this beauty.
Thank you!
Kind of looked like the clutch was dragging with no load on it- which made your secondary trans hard to get into gear. Maybe have the motorcycle trans in neutral when shifting the secondary tran
Absolutely brilliant build, I can't wait to see you ripping around in it! Your engineering skills are really a credit to you, but and it's only a small but, don't let yourself look silly because you haven't experienced or read about something technical within the motorcycle side of your builds. Knowing you have to pull the clutch in to start it, but not knowing why is the kind of thing I mean.
The chain drive is cool, but can you imagine how quite it would be with a drive shaft.
This is how I feel about running the wires. The wires that Has anything to do with the sparkplugs coil packs I would have run them in a diff wiring horns by there self. To keep any frequency get crossed . Unless your using wire ACDELCO - 357 A . Just wondering if you used A wire it won't cause no miss fire.
Congratulations on your accomplishment. You might wanna keep the baffles in to appease the neighbor.
Engaging the clutch before strating up is a build in safety feature of this (and many other) engines. It's not a bad thing.
You already explained in another video why you prefer chains, but still.... looks way to clunky. A driveshaft would give you way moere longevity on this vehicle.
Might run even betetr if you sync the carbs.
Turn the fan on in the window. That will help air it out quicker. Very nice work!
Might need a few more chain sliders for the middle chain. Love it.
Chris, this is by far the cleanest and well thought out wiring job you’ve done on this channel. I know it was A LOT of work but it was absolutely worth it. Well done sir! 🙌🏼
Awesome stuff! You could start from an already 4x4 drive train and build from that up. I believe that with a bit of research on your behalf you'd be 100% capable of building your own trophy truck. Pick a basic v8 with a lot of upgrade potential and keep the build cheap! We need a channel long time project!
Regardles, I like your content in general and can't to see what comes next! Cheers
That's sorta going away from the whole premise of his channel. which is not to build full sized vehicles, but rather to build smaller vehicles. he's already up against the limit on this vehicle. if he were to build larger vehicles? that would put him in a different category of YT builders.
@@musicauthority674 exactly
That wiring Amazing job 💚👍🏼
Most of the time a starters main power doesn't have a circuit breaker. Because you would need a massive one (in most cases). The only wire to a starter that should have a fuse/breaker is the signal wire from the ignition
I love this build, Chris. if I was you id leave the radiator up front, I think it looks way nicer than on the top of the engine. It should cool fine up there as long as it's bled of all air. but it's just my opinion.
I want to see this thing with 40s so bad!
You might consider making Teflon lined chain guides…like a timing chain on an engine…curved with tensioner on the slack side…it will greatly reduce chain slap/noise…
Very cool,
Wondering what kind of chain float your gonna have at higher rpms with that long of chains, might need tensioners'
I’m sure the main shifter works fine but if it were a pistol-grip(MOPAR style) that would be some nice eye candy for the interior…just a thought! Keep up the great work Chris 👍
What a machine ! Very impressive !
It's ALIVE! Awesome job, Chris. Hopefully, it performs as well as it looks. I'm excited to see you trail riding. I'm also curious how you're going to make a vacuum for the hubs. All your hard work has paid off. Awesome video. See you next week.
What a sick build... it sounds awesome. All coming together.
I'd say test the current coolant system before going through all the work to replace it, but at the end of the day it's down to you!
He might run into an issue with it not being able to reach normal operating temperature. because of the extra capacity of the cooling system. and on computer controlled engines that might set off the check engine light. because the computer could think there's a bad cooling system Temp. sensor. on a non computerized engine I'd say leave it the way it is. the extra cooling system capacity is a great bonus to have. however computer controlled engines have certain parameters. that have to adhered to for the computer to work properly.