The BEST Way to Photograph Artwork WITHOUT GLARE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2020
- It's surprisingly difficult to take picture of paintings without glare but this photography technique called cross polarization gets rid of all glare easily. This is the best way to get a uniform, professional picture of your artwork.
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Here's a link to a polarizing filter for your camera: amzn.to/3clhKQd
Here's a link to a polarizing sheet: amzn.to/2YRxDKG
Here's a link to an article explaining the science behind why this works: ascmag.com/blog/shot-craft/un...
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why is this one broken?
@@slicedpage No, I just post more consistent content on that channel. This channel is more for completely random content
Thank you for not taking 25 minutes to explain this. Good vid
Great video. Simple and to the point. Good job not getting sucked into the "how it works" trap. More people should watch this as it has a huge variety of applications for any number of objects that need to be photographed without glare. Thanks Imran.
I've probably commented a total of 3 times in the last 10 years on youtube. I HAVE to comment to THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I am a professional oil painter and have never seen anyone have such a solid solution to this problem. I cannot wait to try it. I think you have saved me so much future headache. THANK YOU!
I’ve been struggling with photographing my dark paintings so much…this was so helpful! Thank you!
Excellent video, practical and clear demonstration - thank you
Thank you so much for this! And for the simple explanation! I have struggled for years trying to produce glare free photos of my paintings and so happy to know that I can use this technique even with my phone! 😊
This is making me feel way more confident about photographing an upcoming show. Thanks so much!
Thanks for this awesome video! Exactly what I needed.
Thanks for the tips and explanations. You speak well. I'm definitely going for polarizing filters to photograph my grandmother's hand painted china. Very helpful
It's kind of magical to see how it works in person for the first time! Hope it works for you :)
Thank you very much for this video, I searched a long time for the solution to this problem with oil paintings.
Excellent video, I just picked up another filter, cannot believe the difference it makes for both filming and photographing oil paintings.
So glad this was helpful for you! 😁
Wow! Very awesome and informative video. I want to photograph my framed b&w photos. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks Imran!
This is AMAZING!!! THANK YOU!
wow... amazing technique and result
Great video! Very helpful! Thank you for posting!!!
That is incredible bravo thanks for sharing I’m going to show this video off
Brilliant! Going to amazon right now! Thank you
Thank you soooo much!! This worked so well 🙏📷
SO HELPFUL! thank you
Amazing 🤩 Love this
Fabulous video thank you!
thank you for the tips!!
Thank u for the great information
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!
No problem! Glad it was helpful for you! 😊
Thank you! This method worked great for me. I was photographing glossy acrylic paintings. This gave me the best results. I clamped the polarizing sheets on to two strobes. I sandwiched them in between precut mats.
Thanks for posting. Great painting too! kinda a Vermeer-esque chiaro scuro theme.
By using a 30 degree angle to the work of art, you can position your lights to give minimum bounce back to the camera, this ensures very little polarizing is necessary. Screening out 95 percent of the photons coming in from all directions dims the color and tone of the original. Not something I would recommend for professional results, ESPECAILLY if you are looking to reproduce that painting in print. This is why so many illustrators HATE dealing with the printing process, they don't realize that the loss of color is due to a service bureau or makeshift copy stand set up by the printer is to blame. The less polarization, the less color loss will be. The best reproduction you can get is to polarize and diffuse lights set at 30 degree angles to the work, placed ten feet from the work piece. Use a 55mm telephoto lens at 7-10 feet, depending on the size. if the piece is too large for that format, back the lights up as well. Use at least two lights to cover left and right, for equal illumination over the entire piece. Anything you polarize out, needs to be exposed to compensate, so as not to dim the color.
Unfortunately, polarization cannot cope with the framework. As for your method for 2 lamps. Unfortunately, the light will be uneven and the bottom/top of the frame will be lit differently.
@@zubek59 I guess that is why we- (the photolab I worked at for 3 years in college) used it without incident long before and I was there and I assume long after I was there... the umbrellas were polarized as well, receiving the flash, bouncing it towards the target zone. This method for attaining a professional and evenly lit image has been used for decades. The Setup is greatly empowered by bounced light. But I get great results just by properly positioning my lights at 30-35 degrees above and behind the camera. Good luck doing anything else- you will need it if you don't get what I am telling you.
Thank you!!
thank you!!
I tend to paint a fairly heavy impasto and getting good photos has been a challenge. I think you might have just solved the problem - thanks.
Dude ! Thank you 🥲
That was a trip when you held the filter over the painting of yourself it finished your painting !
THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you thank you thank you!
OMGGG thank you so much
I know this technique, but polarization won't cope with shiny frames. The framework is the biggest problem. Polarization changes color, e.g. the gold frame turns orange and the silver frame turns blue.
great video. One question: you have a natural light coming from the window behind the painting. Isn't it better to be in a completely dark room and using only artificial light?
Thank you so much for this info but I came to know this filter desaturate colors. How to overcome this problem?
Circular polarizer seems a better choice? and you also need a zero density filter but I think most are at least 1 ND
this method slaps ass bro! Thanks!
This comment made me laugh so hard 😅
I use natural light
love your plaid shirt and glasses! :) "wear" did you get it from? let me know LOL :P
Thanks for sharing this video! Two things I would do differently...use two light sources if your're able, spaced at equal distances from the side, and measure to be sure to have your lens as close as possible to the center of the artwork. Love the artwork, btw! On another note, do you use Lightroom, and have you ever tried to shoot tethered? I have the song aRII and have yet to find a way to do this.
great video just a Q did you also have the filter on the camera lens as well? I will experiment with both on strobe and lens thanks again I was struggling with one particular painting I was trying to shoot for a client
Yup. The idea is, the polarising sheets make the light only hit the painting in one 'direction', and then you turn the filter to cut out all reflections that have that polarity..
Can you do the same with graphite work ?
Thank you! I saw that you rotated the sheet in front of the lamp, but how about the filter on the lens of the camera? do you also need to rotate it to a certain position?
If you use two lights, make sure their sheets are turned the same way.
Then you turn the filter to get the amount g of glare reduction that works best for you.
When photographing my wife's paintings that had gold leaf in them I had to allow some of the reflection to still be there, otherwise the gold leaf was just dead!
Is this considered as an alternative to going outside and taking a photo?
I would like to see you edit it in lightroom
I will definitely take a picture of a painting with this and not a Polaroid of a dog falling off a swing
Great info. Greatly appreciate your guidance.
thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou
amazing! would i have to use it both on the light source and on the camera? i use soft box lights to photograph so i wouldn’t be able to put the filter on the lights of course but would putting it on the camera be enough?
yes
@@slicedpage ^
@@possibly_imran here!!!! present and correct
I have a problem with the lighting seeming to bright in the pictures even though in real life it seemed dark
How about glare from glass?
I work with Samsung camera.
What lens are you using on your Sony a7III ? I’m getting an ar7II and am not sure what macro lens to get for photographing my art. Do you have any recommendations? I was looking at a 50mm but I’m not sure which one
I was using the kit lens that comes with the a7iii and it's a super solid lens for video especially. I would say you could get crisper photos with a prime lens, but steer away from the older, cheaper versions of the 50mm Sony lenses. They don't focus fast and the focusing sound is loud
@@possibly_imran Thanks for the reply!
Is it really possible to take a good photo of a large painting with only one light source?
It's definitely possible with this method and the light I used (Godox SL60W)!
Do I understand right, you use a polar foil for the light plus the CPL on Camera?
Yes that is correct!
Thanks for answering, just saw your reply now😅. Do you turn your CPL on camera or only the foil over the lamp or both?
The best and most professional way is to set two lights at each side of the painting at 45 degrees, just play with distance..that's all
Nice tips, but placing the subject in front of a window seems like a very bad idea.
Can i get the same results with only a filter on my camera!?
If you use sunlight to light your artwork (not recommended, but probably not TOO harmful if your work is exposed to direct sunlight for a short period of time), then yes you could use only a polarizing filter on your camera
😀👍👍
Aqil Laibi
Comprehensive artist and philosopher
Just a few things on color accuracy... for starters. If you are posting your photos on web, just pretty much forget about color accuracy. 99% of the people will NEVER see the colors as you see them.
For "true" color accuracy you will need to
1) calibrate a professional monitor to the room where you'll be working on the monitor
2) have proper lighting for your artwork. that means either natural light (problematic because it changes) or color accurate flashes. LED lights might be an issue due to lowish CRI values (a CRI of 95 really is low when working with true color critical work)
3) Have the room lit with e.g. graphiclite lights with superb color reproduction and then calibrate your monitor to these lights and then reference the true colors to what you see on your monitor
4) have a proper camera i.e Phase One/Hasselblad. It is possible to get quite good results with e.g. sony/canon, but this requires a lot of work in post and especially red/orange hues are a pain in the ass
5) proof print with a calibrated printer (then again if you are printing then you'll need to know the qualities of the print paper/canvas/etc).
6) etc. etc. etc...
The reason color accuracy videos are long is because the topic is fucking hard. Sure, grab a shot with a color checker and create a custom ICC profile. But that does not get you to actually accurate colors. There are a myriad of variables that could just ruin the color of your work.
Could you please direct me towards a thorough, clearly explained resource on how to get the digitizing part of reproducing an artwork on a professional level, so that the exposure/colors are absolutely correct?
I bought polarizing sheets off of Amazon and tried it with my phone camera... it doesn't work. 🥲