Words can't describe how much I love that you are doing this and demystifying these ultra high HP motors. The world needs people like you willing to share some of the tools and tricks of the trade.
Brother I love you videos. I have been machining in the job shop world for over 25 years. The equipment you have is so specialized to what you do, but there are some crazy advanced tools that could be also used on those machines. I would love to see you talk to a large tool manufacture, they have Bluetooth bore heads that give you data on how the cutting is reacting, it really helps dial in feeds and speeds. They could also get you tools ground that would cut your sealing ring on the block for the boost ring your are cutting to put a small break edge to eliminate the burr. Also, we all know sharp edges internal or external edges are were cracks start. I love the level of detail you take into building your motors, I hope you do not take this as criticism, I just love teaching as much as you and wanted to offer my experience and thoughts if possible. Thanks for the great content, I have learned so much from you, trying to pass on the favor. Please take this in the context im trying to convey lol, words are not my strong suit. One day I will have a 69 Chevelle and be able to afford one of your engines, that is my biggest goal. Thanks again for what you do brother,
I have been a machinist since 1982 i remember cutting grooves in blocks like that in a 3 axis manual bridgeport mill with digital readouts and lifter boring. Things have come a long way
Man back in the day we blue the bore light dust cut. I did learn CNC before I retired. Different world. Thanks for sharing. Also high speed steel tooling, lol.
I like how the machine spins the tool at a high RPM to maintain correct surface footage for the tool in the cut, then slows down to eliminate any possible chatter marks. Very cool
If you slow down the video to .25 speed it really shows how perfect the grooves are cut. The tool starts and stops cutting at the exact same spot. And Steve sounds funny too. 😂
When starting with a mass produced part from any auto maker, Ford, GM, etc. there's what's known as the stackup. All the features have tolerances of course and if you go to the worst case dimensions for each, by the time you get to the feature you're wanting to machine, you're .020" out of true. Like Steve said in the first part of the video if the cam tunnel is say .005" from end to end out of straight, start there. Bore it perfect with the crank first, then go to the lifter bores. Normal everyday car engines don't give a shit about those few thousandths of an inch. A race engine going twice the RPM and 4x the HP does care. And will tell you they care when they come apart.
A few thoughts from some pest out in the cheap seats Block Fixtureing ~ As there is no mechanical connection between the 4th axis and it's tail stock there might be a few things that would pay in the long run. I would assume that the block is held by an expanding mandrel on the front and rear main bearing. To even out the fixturing the Tail stock does or should have an anti rotation brake that's applied when it isn't rotating the axis and a machining process is taking place. May I suggest a couple of adjustable stops on the 4th axis backing plate if it isn't bolted all ready? These would go on the oil pan rail at the rear. This would guarantee rotational position and eliminate the rotational torque that's put through a single clamp point. This is also insurance that if there is a timing issue with the tail stock brake there wouldn't be any extra rotational force put on the mandrels and caps. CNC Machine ~ Ergonomically the position of the knockout button for the spindle is very poorly placed. With this machine only having a manual tool change the frequency of using the touch screen is far to high. May I suggest a button mounted on the spindle head to help the operator. This will allow eyes on the spindle during the swap and may prevent an accidental dropping of tooling that can be fragile and slippery when there is coolant around. Also that style of pull stud and ball bearing draw bar locking collet Can spit the tool back out if the cone isn't properly seated, this could also spit it out of the hand holding it in place. A very common thing across many brands of CNC is to add a short dwell for the clamp and a slightly longer dwell for the unclamp. Usually giving time to seat the cone and time to catch the ejection. A suggestion that should help with the setup I noticed that the machine didn't have any mechanical switches short of an Emergency stop. Perhaps a cycle start button, feed hold button, Spindle speed override knob and a feed rate override knob. The Spindle and feed controls can be useful for uneven cuts, hard spots or situations where the programmed speed may need to be slowed. It also adds the possibility to control with certainty with your eyes on the job not the screen. First contact withe every process comes to mind? In my experience touch screens for frequently used operations can be troublesome and when they fail it can go unnoticed causing intermittent faults. Better off putting the most frequently used operations on mechanical buttons and switches and keep it in good order. Forgive my oddly long comment it isn't meant as criticism. Please don't misinterpret these suggestions as they were only made to help in the long term. No shade aimed at Rottler as well just a little surprised that some of these are not included on every machine. Cheers
Here's one for you Steve. If you're now doing receiver grooves on a block with that, are you storing the program for that block so it can be repeated if the same block comes back and gets decked and grooves need to be recut? And what I'm referring to is if the grooves aren't completely machined away.
You should get those inserts EDM'd with a chamfer built in if you are using a common fire ring depth on all your receiver grooves. I have form tools made like that for oringing surfaces all the time and then you don't have the burr.
What about adding angled holes for splayed 4 bolt main caps? I'd imagine one could write a stroker block program that could include those so all you'd really have to do is mount a block, pick your program (with or without splayed caps) and hit go. Then it's just a matter of babysitting the machine in case of tool issues, correct?
Hi Steve! Noticed when I watched ,no one ,no one was wearing safety equipment!! A lot of young guys look up to you as role model. Remember, SAFETY FIRST!
Steve thats a nice machine looks like you will increase productivity with it for sure. Money well spent, does Mitch get a raise for learning the new machine lol!! Great content. These cnc's have come a long way since my time using them.
Does it fixturing to hold the block by the deck to square the back of the block and drill through lifter bushings? It would also be great to ise it for set screw holes for the bell housing dowels.
steve< am a retired tool & die maker & toolroom foreman. & engineer. I still have all my fingers &you are not going to have yours for long when you put them in near a running machine. if you have any body injured in your shop & MIOSCH look at these videos you can be sued as your fingers are in the working area. Please use a lazer pointer & save my worryng
Are you using a 3mm or 5mm tip on your renishaw ? Get a couple extra they shatter pretty easily. Dykhouse has them they're just down the street from you. If you have multiple off sets you can use G54 for cylinder bore and a G55 offset to do lifter bore and save time with one setup if they are off . Depending on what cad software you're using you can do a auto inspection with your probe before you ever start
Seen in the high hp diesel motors they do a "fire ring", similar too your hoops but alot beefier. Love watching your videos, learn about doing alot of cool things.
2:07 Orientation too, hopefully. ;) We all know someone's gonna crash this at some point. At least you get to make content out of it unlike us poor saps.
I would imagine the body of the toolholder is the maximum diameter that space permits, with the actual boring tool only as long as the bore itself...OK, maybe 1/16" or so longer...
I wonder if it would be possible to get a GoPro and attach it to the machine under the hood where you would have a birds eye view of the cutting in process. Seeing an engine go from raw to finished would make for some really neat time-lapse footage I think.
There are quite a few vid's on YT of exactly that - from a solid block of billet to a finished bare engine block. Also heads, cranks, rods, etc, if you're also interested in that. They're quite mesmerising.
So the factory where the blocks are made use the dowel pin holes to measure and do their fixtures off of ? You do the same but your new machine is more accurate and properly centers the bores, etc?
I actually know 100% all of the things you are talking about. I was a Fitter/Machinist (no cnc real experience sadly) so I know these things, just not in a motor builder context unfortunately. Having said that it's great that you are trying to explain things for the layman.
JUST A THORT . IT WOULD BE NICE IF IT HAD A VACUUM CLEANER FITTED TO HELP KEEP THE DUST FROM GOING AROUND THE WORK SHOP . THAT IS ONE HELL OF A MACHINE.
im trying to get a mill right now an just got a lathe in the past couple months, nothing close to this size but big enough so i can learn from it. would this be called a cnc mill with a rotary axis or is this considered something else completely. probably a stupid question but figured id ask. just trying to make sure my understanding of what im picking up is correct i guess.
11:27 - Hey Steve, if you're a fan of beans, you should check out the Torque Test Channel, they measure amounts of beans! And they're pretty damn good at it too; build their own bean measuring dynos, a la Steve Morris as well, LOL Looking forward to seeing more of the new equipment in the future, I'm as much a tech geek as I am a gearhead, so this stuff is awesome!
With this lifter bore jus for longevity would it work for the to bore it a little bigger and maybe put a coated copper bushing/sleeve in there like the main bearings
Hey, least you're gettin' that paycheck! I do feel you though. Ever done electronics? Idk what kind of disability you have but SMD soldering and other electronics like that are damn fun n you can do it sitting down at a table. Best wishes man!
Thats a LONG Hog Mill. Careful , the break really easy if you push to hard on the feed and suddenly a chip gets recut between the part and tool... Tink, wop wop wop...Ohh crap!. Its usually because you find a decent feed and speed, but then a long Burr chip decides to jump between things , like too many slices in a sanwich.😋😛
If I heard correctly it will bore the block in the correct bore location ? So if for some reason the cylinder was off and it was getting bored, you could put the cylinder back in the correct location ?
This is the part of engine building I know how to do because I'm an engineering draftsman by training. However this is also the part of engine building I probably will never be able to afford 🙃
How far off (dimensionally) are engines that come back for a refresh? With no damage. Has there been much of a difference in materials strengths over the years?
Do you have the coolant turned off on the machines for filming or is it not necessary? I dont have any experience machining aluminum but with steel there's almost always coolant running while the machine is cutting
Words can't describe how much I love that you are doing this and demystifying these ultra high HP motors. The world needs people like you willing to share some of the tools and tricks of the trade.
Thanks Steve. All of us gear heads appreciate every video.
Thanks to the tool representative for taking the extra time so you can video for all of us.. much appreciated
This machine is not only saving time, it's also precision, and thats what is the most important part.
I was a CNC machinist for a while. All the information you’re giving is excellent. That machine you have is absolutely fantastic.
I'm a cabinet maker and we just got our first cnc in December... I do know what you mean. 😂 It's cool to see how a lot of woodworking cnc carries over
This Rottler is insane. I would lose hair if this thing wasn't running night and day to pay for itself.
Mr. Morris is doing real well for himself.
I have work on cnc for years and they are great for cabinetmakers but hey its so easy to mess things up a dude lol
@AM here a 🍪
Brother I love you videos. I have been machining in the job shop world for over 25 years. The equipment you have is so specialized to what you do, but there are some crazy advanced tools that could be also used on those machines. I would love to see you talk to a large tool manufacture, they have Bluetooth bore heads that give you data on how the cutting is reacting, it really helps dial in feeds and speeds. They could also get you tools ground that would cut your sealing ring on the block for the boost ring your are cutting to put a small break edge to eliminate the burr. Also, we all know sharp edges internal or external edges are were cracks start. I love the level of detail you take into building your motors, I hope you do not take this as criticism, I just love teaching as much as you and wanted to offer my experience and thoughts if possible. Thanks for the great content, I have learned so much from you, trying to pass on the favor. Please take this in the context im trying to convey lol, words are not my strong suit. One day I will have a 69 Chevelle and be able to afford one of your engines, that is my biggest goal. Thanks again for what you do brother,
Thanks
Good comment Jared
Would be cool to see a cnc collaboration with Titan. He does parts for aerospace with insane tolerances !
I have been a machinist since 1982 i remember cutting grooves in blocks like that in a 3 axis manual bridgeport mill with digital readouts and lifter boring. Things have come a long way
Man back in the day we blue the bore light dust cut. I did learn CNC before I retired. Different world. Thanks for sharing. Also high speed steel tooling, lol.
Steve Morris Engines = UNSTOPPABLE!! Damn, this man's company is one of the Top Tier Engine builders in the World!
Good stuff, the amount of detail it takes to do work at this level is off the charts.
I like how the machine spins the tool at a high RPM to maintain correct surface footage for the tool in the cut, then slows down to eliminate any possible chatter marks. Very cool
I really love that warning at the beginning, makes me pay **extra** attention.
If you slow down the video to .25 speed it really shows how perfect the grooves are cut. The tool starts and stops cutting at the exact same spot. And Steve sounds funny too. 😂
I ran a Bavelloni 3 axis CNC machine to cut and polish granite countertops. Machine work I found interesting and kind of fun.
That small adjustable boring bar is sweet man the perfect tool for lifter bores!
Mitch is going to be an Animal on that boring machine.
When starting with a mass produced part from any auto maker, Ford, GM, etc. there's what's known as the stackup. All the features have tolerances of course and if you go to the worst case dimensions for each, by the time you get to the feature you're wanting to machine, you're .020" out of true. Like Steve said in the first part of the video if the cam tunnel is say .005" from end to end out of straight, start there. Bore it perfect with the crank first, then go to the lifter bores. Normal everyday car engines don't give a shit about those few thousandths of an inch. A race engine going twice the RPM and 4x the HP does care. And will tell you they care when they come apart.
A few thoughts from some pest out in the cheap seats
Block Fixtureing ~ As there is no mechanical connection between the 4th axis and it's tail stock there might be a few things that would pay in the long run. I would assume that the block is held by an expanding mandrel on the front and rear main bearing. To even out the fixturing the Tail stock does or should have an anti rotation brake that's applied when it isn't rotating the axis and a machining process is taking place. May I suggest a couple of adjustable stops on the 4th axis backing plate if it isn't bolted all ready? These would go on the oil pan rail at the rear. This would guarantee rotational position and eliminate the rotational torque that's put through a single clamp point. This is also insurance that if there is a timing issue with the tail stock brake there wouldn't be any extra rotational force put on the mandrels and caps.
CNC Machine ~ Ergonomically the position of the knockout button for the spindle is very poorly placed. With this machine only having a manual tool change the frequency of using the touch screen is far to high. May I suggest a button mounted on the spindle head to help the operator. This will allow eyes on the spindle during the swap and may prevent an accidental dropping of tooling that can be fragile and slippery when there is coolant around. Also that style of pull stud and ball bearing draw bar locking collet Can spit the tool back out if the cone isn't properly seated, this could also spit it out of the hand holding it in place. A very common thing across many brands of CNC is to add a short dwell for the clamp and a slightly longer dwell for the unclamp. Usually giving time to seat the cone and time to catch the ejection.
A suggestion that should help with the setup I noticed that the machine didn't have any mechanical switches short of an Emergency stop. Perhaps a cycle start button, feed hold button, Spindle speed override knob and a feed rate override knob. The Spindle and feed controls can be useful for uneven cuts, hard spots or situations where the programmed speed may need to be slowed. It also adds the possibility to control with certainty with your eyes on the job not the screen. First contact withe every process comes to mind? In my experience touch screens for frequently used operations can be troublesome and when they fail it can go unnoticed causing intermittent faults. Better off putting the most frequently used operations on mechanical buttons and switches and keep it in good order.
Forgive my oddly long comment it isn't meant as criticism. Please don't misinterpret these suggestions as they were only made to help in the long term. No shade aimed at Rottler as well just a little surprised that some of these are not included on every machine.
Cheers
You gotta talk to a Seco salesman about getting rid of that long 1" rougher! Sweet machine you got there!
As a cnc guy I love these videos!
Very impressive machine and a very cool rep along with it. He should be proud of his product.
34👍's up Steve Morris thank you for sharing
Great information , priceless. Thank you very much.
Hi Steve sorry about the my misunderstanding about the give-away yesterday. Thanks for your great channel
I proudly wear my Steve Morris Engines hoodie even in the summer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Marty is a natural on camera!
Here's one for you Steve. If you're now doing receiver grooves on a block with that, are you storing the program for that block so it can be repeated if the same block comes back and gets decked and grooves need to be recut? And what I'm referring to is if the grooves aren't completely machined away.
You should get those inserts EDM'd with a chamfer built in if you are using a common fire ring depth on all your receiver grooves. I have form tools made like that for oringing surfaces all the time and then you don't have the burr.
Very cool bit of kit Steve, going over to watch the Hemi build now. Thanks
What about adding angled holes for splayed 4 bolt main caps? I'd imagine one could write a stroker block program that could include those so all you'd really have to do is mount a block, pick your program (with or without splayed caps) and hit go. Then it's just a matter of babysitting the machine in case of tool issues, correct?
Marty is the man, got to work with him for a few days on our f99 a few years ago. What I would give to pick his mind for a month straight.
That is a super nice machine. I must admit that I'm surprised there isn't any coolant/lubricant for the bit
Awesome machine can't wait to see the honing machine
This is a super cool machine. Thanks for allowimg us into your world.
Can't wait to see what is next on Pimp My Engine Block. Good stuff.
Hi Steve! Noticed when I watched ,no one ,no one was wearing safety equipment!! A lot of young guys look up to you as role model. Remember, SAFETY FIRST!
Steve thats a nice machine looks like you will increase productivity with it for sure. Money well spent, does Mitch get a raise for learning the new machine lol!! Great content. These cnc's have come a long way since my time using them.
Man I would be so excited to have that machine.
Does it fixturing to hold the block by the deck to square the back of the block and drill through lifter bushings? It would also be great to ise it for set screw holes for the bell housing dowels.
steve< am a retired tool & die maker & toolroom foreman. & engineer. I still have all my fingers &you are not going to have yours for long when you put them in near a running machine. if you have any body injured in your shop & MIOSCH look at these videos you can be sued as your fingers are in the working area. Please use a lazer pointer & save my worryng
should be MICH OSHA
Are you using a 3mm or 5mm tip on your renishaw ? Get a couple extra they shatter pretty easily. Dykhouse has them they're just down the street from you. If you have multiple off sets you can use G54 for cylinder bore and a G55 offset to do lifter bore and save time with one setup if they are off . Depending on what cad software you're using you can do a auto inspection with your probe before you ever start
nice tool. gonna make people go fast!!!
Man this thing is a boss! It’s gonna make you a lot of money!
Seen in the high hp diesel motors they do a "fire ring", similar too your hoops but alot beefier. Love watching your videos, learn about doing alot of cool things.
Awesome , I see how this machine is going to free you up to do more of what Steve wants to do !
i like how the software slows the rpm down on that oring grove cut at the final z depth to avoid chatter when the tool unloads
Was just making chips tonight trying put some CNC 2nd op stuff…then jump on and see this. Neat!!
i remember well doing hand grinding on blocks for the stroker engines back in the late 1970's early 1980's in an old speedshop working after school.
Now you just need it to make you a coffee while it's cutting 🤣
Oh snap!!! Was that a guess appearance from Marty. Dudes a legend!!!
With the 1 inch roughing end mill i guess you could do the similar operstion with a cherrying head on a manual mill?
Awesome Stuff… Uncle Bob in USA.
2:07 Orientation too, hopefully. ;)
We all know someone's gonna crash this at some point. At least you get to make content out of it unlike us poor saps.
That may be the quietest machine I've seen
I'm in the process of building my very first engine! I'm just going through my 99 Vortec 350. Here goes nothing! I'm learning a lot of stuff from ya!
Machine work is so fascinating to me. When the tooling gets longer such as the boring tool for the lifters, is there any flex in the tool?
I would imagine the body of the toolholder is the maximum diameter that space permits, with the actual boring tool only as long as the bore itself...OK, maybe 1/16" or so longer...
Retired machinist 71,man no safety glasses, I would have gotten yelled at or written up. Enjoy.
I wonder if it would be possible to get a GoPro and attach it to the machine under the hood where you would have a birds eye view of the cutting in process. Seeing an engine go from raw to finished would make for some really neat time-lapse footage I think.
There are quite a few vid's on YT of exactly that - from a solid block of billet to a finished bare engine block. Also heads, cranks, rods, etc, if you're also interested in that.
They're quite mesmerising.
That's a of beauty Steve keep em coming
I'd love to have that machine in my shop.
So the factory where the blocks are made use the dowel pin holes to measure and do their fixtures off of ? You do the same but your new machine is more accurate and properly centers the bores, etc?
Nice tooling setup.
I actually know 100% all of the things you are talking about. I was a Fitter/Machinist (no cnc real experience sadly) so I know these things, just not in a motor builder context unfortunately.
Having said that it's great that you are trying to explain things for the layman.
So cool.. no idea what we are doing but I love watching.. lol keep up the good work
The machine is just showing off
JUST A THORT . IT WOULD BE NICE IF IT HAD A VACUUM CLEANER FITTED TO HELP KEEP THE DUST FROM GOING AROUND THE WORK SHOP . THAT IS ONE HELL OF A MACHINE.
Why are the hoops put in the heads and not in the block? I know most wire o-rings are put in the block with receiver groove in the head. Awesome vid.
im trying to get a mill right now an just got a lathe in the past couple months, nothing close to this size but big enough so i can learn from it. would this be called a cnc mill with a rotary axis or is this considered something else completely. probably a stupid question but figured id ask. just trying to make sure my understanding of what im picking up is correct i guess.
Damn love the new Tools/technology ! Love you sharing ! These toy's have got to be expensive !
11:27 - Hey Steve, if you're a fan of beans, you should check out the Torque Test Channel, they measure amounts of beans! And they're pretty damn good at it too; build their own bean measuring dynos, a la Steve Morris as well, LOL
Looking forward to seeing more of the new equipment in the future, I'm as much a tech geek as I am a gearhead, so this stuff is awesome!
With this lifter bore jus for longevity would it work for the to bore it a little bigger and maybe put a coated copper bushing/sleeve in there like the main bearings
This is really cool to watch. Retired on disability and my usefulness in life is pretty much over. I miss knowing things and doing things. 😕
Hey, least you're gettin' that paycheck! I do feel you though. Ever done electronics? Idk what kind of disability you have but SMD soldering and other electronics like that are damn fun n you can do it sitting down at a table. Best wishes man!
That butterfly cut machine is bad assmakes nice
That 4th axis is so cool
Any chance we could see how the tooling is set up in the fixture you mentioned, I think in the 2nd video?
Really neat machine, thanks!
You must get a ton of metal slivers the way you run your hand on stuff covered with shavings
Thats a LONG Hog Mill. Careful , the break really easy if you push to hard on the feed and suddenly a chip gets recut between the part and tool...
Tink, wop wop wop...Ohh crap!.
Its usually because you find a decent feed and speed, but then a long Burr chip decides to jump between things , like too many slices in a sanwich.😋😛
This machine eliminates multiple other machines and setups. Love it.
If I heard correctly it will bore the block in the correct bore location ? So if for some reason the cylinder was off and it was getting bored, you could put the cylinder back in the correct location ?
LOL... I bet my "Groove a Matic" will give you nightmares....
Super sweet machine !!!
Steve Morris engines, can the setting fixture for the cylinder boring head also be used to set the diameter on the grooving tool?
Yep I see you watched the pod cast
@@stevemorrisracing ur an awesome guy, u try to be a good Christian, u raised a good boy and he sharp also.
Curious question .... why is there no lubrication/coolant and 2) how does the machine account for tool wear?
Subaru blocks get the groove in high tier builds.
Very cool process.
This is the part of engine building I know how to do because I'm an engineering draftsman by training. However this is also the part of engine building I probably will never be able to afford 🙃
How far off (dimensionally) are engines that come back for a refresh? With no damage. Has there been much of a difference in materials strengths over the years?
So on an iron block like that what lifter clearance do you like?
Also, meant to ask, all the boring and decking is done dry? Does that increase tool wear?
Interesting that there’s no coolant running. Or is that just for the videos, for clarity?
question for steve ..will the f 69a do like conversion on stock blocks from two bolt mains nto four bolt mains..
I would have loaned you a few blocks test the machine out.😂
The bit seems to want some lubricant to make the stroker bore reliefs cuts
Safety glasses!
Do you have the coolant turned off on the machines for filming or is it not necessary? I dont have any experience machining aluminum but with steel there's almost always coolant running while the machine is cutting
IC carbide inserts have decent life without coolant, on steel. On aluminum you have to give them some oil or it will gall up your workpiece
Cast iron, self lubricating while being cut 😎
Is the deck plate still required when using this machine vs the other?
How does the new machine machine without a lube bath. The other machines I see have fluid constantly being sprayed what the tool is working.
That is beyond cool