After the Line to Line coating on the oil pump remember that the high helix parts will become parts that need to be "timed" so that the two pieces per section and the lobes of those pieces are always together. You wouldn't want to have them re-clearance and basically negate the benefits of the coating.
Back in the day, when I ran a 76mm turbo limited class. I used paint to coat the interior of the compressor housing trying to take up the space. We won a lot, but don't know exactly how much it helped.
TJ!! Good to see you here!! The turbine wheel Steve runs is a work of art, and the “science” would indicate that they are better than stock. (Turbine wheel? Impeller thingy?😂)
In my perfect world. I would definitely have an SMX in my 76 camaro. Unfortunately for me, I'm definitely dreaming. Personally, I think the SMX is a perfect built work of art. In a perfect world, if I had a tea spoon full of your engine building knowledge, 1 could almost build a bullet-proof engine of any kind na, blown, supercharged, or turbo. You are the man in my eyes for a perfect drag and drive engine combo.
The question that begs to be asked is, what negative issue is present in the oil pump that needs to be addressed? Reducing clearance on the impeller rotors in relation to one another. and the housing? if that's the case, the CAD design program such as SW has a virtual feature that affords an empirical value between mating parts at MMC. We addressed the issue of measuring a continual helix in rifled barrels through SW when designing the buttons pulled through the barrel blank prior to having the bores hard chrome plated for durability. Merry Christmas to Dewey and his subordinates! Oh and that style of zippered hoodie is absolute fire, Steve. Cheers!
@@strykerentllc Small amount of bypass up the middle but I bet the main advantage is just a sacrificial wear layer that can be refreshed without replacing an extremely expensive part.
@@Ammoniummetavanadate I don't think that coating will hold up to something like trash going through the pump. If it was going to get damaged, I think it will whether there is a coating there or not.
ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา +3
That long oil pump is just a string of tiny Roots’ blowers. Fun fact… the Roots blower was invented by the Roots brother to be a one-way air blower for mines.
20:49 theres several ways to measure the tolerance or clearance between rotors. Plastigauge being one. Modeling clay, wax, or to get real scientific you would use a C.M.M. machine. You would make a CMM model of all included parts and analyze the data to determine clearance.
I used an electric gear pump for changing oil on big marine engines. It would rwally move the oil. Some held 11 gallons in each engine. Took no time to empty and fill the engines.
So the the surface thermodynamics says basically if your tolerance is too close the boundary layer of oil will add additional resistance to turning if you need to penetrate and disrupt the layer. That being said you are talking under a microns of distance there so I suspect it will wear away outside that boundary layer.
I think it would be better to disrupt the laminar layer where he's trying to tighten the clearance up (speaking of the turbos). If the air isnt "stuck" to the surface as much then in theory it should be scooped by the compressor and pushed into the compressor housing easier, in theory moving more air and possibly more efficiently as well. Still obviously want to probably be reasonably close to the surface with the compressor wheel but lessening the need to have tight tolerances is probably a more effective idea in this case I believe?
I suspect the rub marks are caused by heat expansion of the connecting shaft pushing the impeller into the cool side housing. Maybe pickup the heat from rubbing on a thermal imaging camera.
The factory coating on my little l67s m90 rotors had failed and I looked into either sending them away to be re done or buying the gear to do it myself, I had used high fill primer to close the gap on cheap turbo compressor housings with pretty loose tolerances in the past with good results so long story short I experimented with a few primer and paint’s and ended up using a high fill primer! On the lil m90 It lasted 6 months on first inspection and it’s been a couple of years now, it’s got a rear main leak and I’ve got some plans for a couple extra hp so it’s soon to be rebuilt! When it’s apart I’ll find out if the dodgy coat lasted but I sorta have my doubts.
Gene Berg, VW legend and really smart guy, used to blueprint the factory Shadek gear type used to blueprint the oil pump by hard anodized the housing. This would decrease the figure 8 cavity and bottom. The hole for the shaft would be honed to the proper clearance. The steel spur type gears were only verified as to proper size for gear to gear clearance. The stacked height of installed gears and the housing was corrected to flush and the very thin gasket allowed the end clearance needed. Also, our hard anodizing chart at Glenn Tool showed for a .001 hard anodizing call out, that .0005 would be subsurface and .0005 would be the build up above the original surface.
Steve back in the day when we were racing we used to throw a couple of shims different thicknesses underneath the impellers of a small block Chevy oil pump and it would increase the oil pressure I'd be worried about putting them on the helix side. I also love when you're thinking I can almost see the gears turning in your head keep up the good work
must be cold out there Dewey looks like he's staying warm on the shop seat lol more boost for the wagon and oil pressure too .. win win! thanks for the education Steve. From Cali Dancing Manny's Burrito Coverings and Chevy II's
I love the way you guys leave in all the time that the “brain” aka Steve is thinking about what to do and how things are working. I know that a lot of us do the same thing but usually not to the caliber of what he has going on.
Merry Christmas to you and the entire family. You only Line To Line coat the pistons, not the bores. Therefore you should only coat one rotor, not both. You already figured out not to coat the inside of the pump case. Same for hard anodizing, coat one rotor not both. Peterson can send me the royalties for that idea. 😇
Only at first run. Steve did an in depth vid on the properties of the coating on piston skirts. The coating is meant to "wear" away thus creating surfaces with (theoretical) zero clearance once the interference fit of the coating wears away. Thus the only increased power consumption would be because of a decrease in oil blow by. Which would equate to an increase is oil pressure efficiency. So, yes and no. Yes, somewhat but only with the byproduct of increased oil pressure.
Some jet engines use a liner that the blades wear into. It''s a honeycomb material made from hastelloy. I designed a laser welding machine years ago that makes it.
I feel like coating the oil pump to remove clearance is unnecessary. It builds adequate pressure as is. Clearance for an oil film is needed to spin freely. I understand coating pistons to keep them from rocking and seal in combustion pressure. But coating a driven assembly to remove clearance will rob horsepower.
As I listened to the beginning of the vid I agree with the manufacturer. Would suspect the end and tip clearances may not be receptive to your investigation. Also suspect the machined clearances will need to be adjusted for coating thickness. We have some experience with coatings on gerotor style gears and pump housings.
Another killer video!!! I wish ppl were more knowledgeable on wet/dry sump setups. They’re amazing and are definitely worth it on any high strung street/ racing motor. Spendy for sure. But when you’re talking about a 10k+ build, spending a quarter (+\- depending on how you go about it) of that to hedge your bets is worth it too me!!
Really looking forward to seeing the Wagon dominate its class at Sick Week 2025 Can we get more videos on teardown and 17:46 refresh on the engimes after drag & drive events. Enjoyed the Cowboy Nova SML teardown and refresh
In my experience i had machined a cover for a larger comp wheel. My amature skills led to excessive clearance probabably like 10-15 thou over factory. Did not have the assembly balanced either. Turbo has performed fine daily driven and beaten on for a few years now. Little tdo5h 20g turbo 42lb/hr wheel making about 320-350hp to the ground on a very basic 4 banger setup. Boost usually around 24 psi but have pinned the gate shut many tines for 30 psi falling off to low 20s by redline. Im sure its not optimal but it works well enough. Your car is a work of art keep up the good work.👍
Righr before steve said it i was thinking "hmm the oil pump looks like a mini supercharger" and then steve said it lol. Pretty neat, never knew how those pumps worked
This coating reminds me of a mil-spec dry film lube that was used as a filler for clearance and anti-seize for single use actuators on ejection seat systems. Teflon was too sticky and would not self clear the high spots. Once baked at 400°f you could shave or sand it if you wanted to and it was insoluble in anything I've ever tried.
I was literally just thinking about doing something like this to a turbo yesterday, surely it has to be worth some horse power. Especially if it is done on say older parts/turbos that may have higher clearances just from wearing out.
Mold maker here. To measure those oil pump helix you need to scan it with a CMM and go against a CAD model. I've made molds making helix parts and that's pretty much what you have to do.
idk about oil pump coating I was thinking it might lock up before you said they tried anodized and locked up. it will be interesting to see if it works or locks up for sure,never know till you try
I have a feeling the oil pump will lock up when first assembled but I guess we will soon find out. If it does work i would be interested in the gains if any. Like anything, you won't know till you try, good luck.
Id be curious to see how the piston coating used on the pistons works when applied to a turbo housing. Being it helps with the piston fitting better in the bore id be curious if it would help with impeller clearance with a turbo
Other than an experiment to see what happens, what are you trying to achieve by coating the turbos? It almost certainly bypasses some air, but you also aren't using all the possible boost they can generate. I guess the only thing I could see you getting is higher boost at lower turbo RPM, and I'm not sure that is a need based on exhaust flow at the starting line and going down the track. Now what might be beneficial is that the compressed hot air may not be able to transfer that heat to the housing. Also the coating might help protect the housing in a touch down condition, thus saving the engine from ingesting aluminum flakes. All of the above is my guess on the results for the turbos. For the oil pump, if they want to anodize or other coating, they may need to machine the rotors slightly smaller (or polish them smaller) and specify the coating thickness to get to where they need to be. The oxide layer from anodize could help the parts last longer, same might go for the other coatings. Will be interesting to see the results from this test too.
I think the biggest thing the rotor coating is going to do is reduce cavitation/airiation of the oil. Due to it trying to bypass between the rotors as you mentioned… That has to be creating some turbulence inside the pump housing. Not to mention the way they work just like a blower… Basically “scooping” air or oil in this case, and “throwing” it out the bottom colliding into each other. It’s already a very turbulent situation to begin with… 👍🏻🤘🏻👏🏻
All those rotors will need to be "timed" to each other and placed back exactly the same way they were "broken in" every time the pump is assembled/serviced. I think you can figure out why. Probably should have them numbered and timing marks placed on the rotors.
I would imagine that you could measure the clearance in the helix using plastigauge, but I wouldn't know what use it would be, as you'd have to measure at several different points, one at a time on each vein and like said above, they would have to be paired and timed for life for that info to be of any use at all.
Should make a little bracket to mount an Rpm sensor for the oil pumps, that way ignition can be cut when the pump stops. Or oil pressure safety cut off steve haha.
Are you worried at all about the engine breathing in some of the coating from the turbo? I'm not sure that it would do anything in the cylinders, but what about the sensors? They might be a dead head (no flow) kind of thing so it might not get there to foul anything up.
Interesting vid can't wait to see if it's a big help on oil pressure stands to reason it should, turbos I get nervous when pumping forced air with all the vibrations temp changes etc any possible chance of coating coming loose and head for engine..... just wondering lol
3:49 the reason your compressor wheel contacted the compressor cover in that manner is because of lateral thrust load and the thrust bearing tolerances wearing down. I believe it's called the thrust collar. But either way Bullseye will know that and correct it. In your case the compressor wheel doesn't have excessive "shaft play" axially because that's controlled by the clearance between the bearing bore diameter and the diameter of the turbine shaft. The thrust collar is what prevents excessive lateral movement or load in/out. Excuse the machinist in me
@@NonotEver1 If the bearing are in good shape, (which they are) then there is nothing to "wear" out axially. So the focus comes back to the thrust collar. But thanks for playing. 😁
Hey Steve is there anyway you could do a video on h beam rods if you haven't already, what is a good brand and what brands to stay away from there are so many different ones on the market and heard that most are forged out of county all using the same dies and sold to or sent to different manufacturers for final machining and finishing was hoping that you could shed some light on this for me and others as well as h beam vs I beam and what realistic HP they can each handle
What about heat expansion on the rotor taking up the gap. The cad file makes it cold, then when running it expands. Im not saying the coating will cause a problem, just something to consider if a problem arises. Maybe do a load test cold and hot to see the resistance, then after the coating do a cold and hot load test to see where things are at.
@@Ole_CornPop for sure, aside from the immediate oil change, i was just throwing that out there since Steve was being critical of what he should get treated. First he was thinking the rotor and the housing, then withdrew the housing. Also he mentioned how anodizing alone locked up the pump and that the rotors are immeasurable. Since this part is highly toleranced and he didnt brainstorm out loud heat expansion, i mentioned it. The coating is quite sturdy, and although its clearanceable it may get close to what anodizing did. Again just throwing it out there, not predicting any problem.
Hey quick question. Are you rebalancing the turbos? If you are removing the comp wheels and adding a coating to them are they going to be still in balance? Just a quick question? They are very expensive turbos wouldn’t want them to fail due to the balancing? But they may be fine I don’t know the specifics of the coating? But I think it’s a good idea to protect your turbos and taking up the gap.
Looking forward to meeting you next month, I will be at the first event at So. Ga Motorsports Park. I got some stickers and a hat but couldn't find you to meet, hopefully can meet you this time
After the Line to Line coating on the oil pump remember that the high helix parts will become parts that need to be "timed" so that the two pieces per section and the lobes of those pieces are always together. You wouldn't want to have them re-clearance and basically negate the benefits of the coating.
Get this to the top 🔝
Excellent point!
First thing I thought as well, paired and timed.
He would probably get it re-coated if he tears is down, but your point is valid.
Had the same thought, and then saw that you had already articulated it well.
I just wanted to say thank you for teaching me something in every video! From water jacketed cooling to being humble... Thank you
You are welcome.
Back in the day, when I ran a 76mm turbo limited class. I used paint to coat the interior of the compressor housing trying to take up the space. We won a lot, but don't know exactly how much it helped.
TJ!! Good to see you here!! The turbine wheel Steve runs is a work of art, and the “science” would indicate that they are better than stock. (Turbine wheel? Impeller thingy?😂)
Let's go John!
Merry Christmas to the whole team there at Steve Morris Engines.
Awesome info Steve. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
In my perfect world. I would definitely have an SMX in my 76 camaro. Unfortunately for me, I'm definitely dreaming. Personally, I think the SMX is a perfect built work of art. In a perfect world, if I had a tea spoon full of your engine building knowledge, 1 could almost build a bullet-proof engine of any kind na, blown, supercharged, or turbo. You are the man in my eyes for a perfect drag and drive engine combo.
The question that begs to be asked is, what negative issue is present in the oil pump that needs to be addressed? Reducing clearance on the impeller rotors in relation to one another. and the housing? if that's the case, the CAD design program such as SW has a virtual feature that affords an empirical value between mating parts at MMC. We addressed the issue of measuring a continual helix in rifled barrels through SW when designing the buttons pulled through the barrel blank prior to having the bores hard chrome plated for durability. Merry Christmas to Dewey and his subordinates! Oh and that style of zippered hoodie is absolute fire, Steve. Cheers!
@@strykerentllc Small amount of bypass up the middle but I bet the main advantage is just a sacrificial wear layer that can be refreshed without replacing an extremely expensive part.
Oil pressure at low rpm. Clearances are large on crank and the oil pressure is low on the SMX because of this. No issue in the track due to rpm
@@Ammoniummetavanadate I don't think that coating will hold up to something like trash going through the pump. If it was going to get damaged, I think it will whether there is a coating there or not.
That long oil pump is just a string of tiny Roots’ blowers. Fun fact… the Roots blower was invented by the Roots brother to be a one-way air blower for mines.
14:52....No rest for Dewey.....always on the job😁
Love the cloth christmas tree in the corner in the background of the oil pump section :P Merry Christmas!
Excellent video Steve .... looking forward to seeing how the line-line coating works out!
20:49 theres several ways to measure the tolerance or clearance between rotors. Plastigauge being one. Modeling clay, wax, or to get real scientific you would use a C.M.M. machine. You would make a CMM model of all included parts and analyze the data to determine clearance.
The problem is the measurement in operation mode.
Merry Christmas and having Dewey on the couch in the background is always a plus. I could tell he was on guard duty. ;)
I love the fact that Steve is daring enough to risk his engine in the name of power. Love your videos, Steve!!
Finally some decent royalty free music! Thank you. Doesn’t a thin layer of oil actually seal the lobes of the rotors on the oil pump.
I used an electric gear pump for changing oil on big marine engines. It would rwally move the oil. Some held 11 gallons in each engine. Took no time to empty and fill the engines.
11 gallons in a engine is crazy. I thought the 5 gallons in a diesel pickup was a lot 😂
Love your Channel , The Reason for the Season , Love It !!!!!
So the the surface thermodynamics says basically if your tolerance is too close the boundary layer of oil will add additional resistance to turning if you need to penetrate and disrupt the layer.
That being said you are talking under a microns of distance there so I suspect it will wear away outside that boundary layer.
😳
I think it would be better to disrupt the laminar layer where he's trying to tighten the clearance up (speaking of the turbos). If the air isnt "stuck" to the surface as much then in theory it should be scooped by the compressor and pushed into the compressor housing easier, in theory moving more air and possibly more efficiently as well. Still obviously want to probably be reasonably close to the surface with the compressor wheel but lessening the need to have tight tolerances is probably a more effective idea in this case I believe?
I suspect the rub marks are caused by heat expansion of the connecting shaft pushing the impeller into the cool side housing. Maybe pickup the heat from rubbing on a thermal imaging camera.
lollstop watching CNN
The factory coating on my little l67s m90 rotors had failed and I looked into either sending them away to be re done or buying the gear to do it myself, I had used high fill primer to close the gap on cheap turbo compressor housings with pretty loose tolerances in the past with good results so long story short I experimented with a few primer and paint’s and ended up using a high fill primer! On the lil m90 It lasted 6 months on first inspection and it’s been a couple of years now, it’s got a rear main leak and I’ve got some plans for a couple extra hp so it’s soon to be rebuilt! When it’s apart I’ll find out if the dodgy coat lasted but I sorta have my doubts.
Can't wait to see what line the line does for this. I love how you're always looking for different ways to improve all your components.
Gene Berg, VW legend and really smart guy, used to blueprint the factory Shadek gear type used to blueprint the oil pump by hard anodized the housing. This would decrease the figure 8 cavity and bottom. The hole for the shaft would be honed to the proper clearance. The steel spur type gears were only verified as to proper size for gear to gear clearance. The stacked height of installed gears and the housing was corrected to flush and the very thin gasket allowed the end clearance needed. Also, our hard anodizing chart at Glenn Tool showed for a .001 hard anodizing call out, that .0005 would be subsurface and .0005 would be the build up above the original surface.
Steve back in the day when we were racing we used to throw a couple of shims different thicknesses underneath the impellers of a small block Chevy oil pump and it would increase the oil pressure I'd be worried about putting them on the helix side. I also love when you're thinking I can almost see the gears turning in your head keep up the good work
Thank you Steve for reminding us of the real reason for the season. Merry Christmas to you and your family
What is going on with Val's Camaro?!?
Better yet, whats up at KSR. Been a couple weeks since Kevin has posted anything. He OK?
For.real everyone has been crickets.
25:51 when we going home dad ......
Fixing oil pump issues for everyone, what a guy. Supporting the sport.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Steve Morrison Engines ROCK!!
Love this channel!! Merry Christmas Steve from Oregon!
must be cold out there Dewey looks like he's staying warm on the shop seat lol more boost for the wagon and oil pressure too .. win win! thanks for the education Steve. From Cali Dancing Manny's Burrito Coverings and Chevy II's
I love the way you guys leave in all the time that the “brain” aka Steve is thinking about what to do and how things are working. I know that a lot of us do the same thing but usually not to the caliber of what he has going on.
Merry Christmas to you and the entire family. You only Line To Line coat the pistons, not the bores. Therefore you should only coat one rotor, not both. You already figured out not to coat the inside of the pump case. Same for hard anodizing, coat one rotor not both. Peterson can send me the royalties for that idea. 😇
Keep up the good work guys. Merry Christmas!!!!
If you fill the clearance tolerance the rotars are going to have a huge amount of frictional drag on them the pump will take more power to spin?
I believe it acts like a Teflon coating to help negate frictional drag.
Only at first run. Steve did an in depth vid on the properties of the coating on piston skirts. The coating is meant to "wear" away thus creating surfaces with (theoretical) zero clearance once the interference fit of the coating wears away. Thus the only increased power consumption would be because of a decrease in oil blow by. Which would equate to an increase is oil pressure efficiency.
So, yes and no. Yes, somewhat but only with the byproduct of increased oil pressure.
Amen ! God Bless you you All at Steve Morris Engines ! Merry Christmas !
Woohoo can't wait to see you really push that wagon. Get after it!
Look forward to these coating results. Have thought about this for years.
Hopefully boost response is so much quicker, more power at same boost =)
Love how you guy always move forward with design and innovation!
Some jet engines use a liner that the blades wear into. It''s a honeycomb material made from hastelloy. I designed a laser welding machine years ago that makes it.
Looks like an interesting experiment! Tight tolerances!
I feel like coating the oil pump to remove clearance is unnecessary. It builds adequate pressure as is. Clearance for an oil film is needed to spin freely.
I understand coating pistons to keep them from rocking and seal in combustion pressure. But coating a driven assembly to remove clearance will rob horsepower.
If you want to coat that for a purpose, try "type III PTFE anodizing" by Pioneer Metal Finishing. A hard coating with lubricity.
As I listened to the beginning of the vid I agree with the manufacturer. Would suspect the end and tip clearances may not be receptive to your investigation. Also suspect the machined clearances will need to be adjusted for coating thickness. We have some experience with coatings on gerotor style gears and pump housings.
Another killer video!!! I wish ppl were more knowledgeable on wet/dry sump setups. They’re amazing and are definitely worth it on any high strung street/ racing motor. Spendy for sure. But when you’re talking about a 10k+ build, spending a quarter (+\- depending on how you go about it) of that to hedge your bets is worth it too me!!
It's All Good Steve !!!! Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to the whole SM family and its employees and their families.
Merry Christmas to all the Morris family. Enjoy every minute you get to with all your family
Really looking forward to seeing the Wagon dominate its class at Sick Week 2025
Can we get more videos on teardown and 17:46 refresh on the engimes after drag & drive events.
Enjoyed the Cowboy Nova SML teardown and refresh
In my experience i had machined a cover for a larger comp wheel. My amature skills led to excessive clearance probabably like 10-15 thou over
factory. Did not have the assembly balanced either. Turbo has performed fine daily driven and beaten on for a few years now. Little tdo5h 20g turbo 42lb/hr wheel making about 320-350hp to the ground on a very basic 4 banger setup. Boost usually around 24 psi but have pinned the gate shut many tines for 30 psi falling off to low 20s by redline. Im sure its not optimal but it works well enough. Your car is a work of art keep up the good work.👍
Cool experiment. Merry Christmas
Righr before steve said it i was thinking "hmm the oil pump looks like a mini supercharger" and then steve said it lol. Pretty neat, never knew how those pumps worked
Merry Christmas to you and your family
This coating reminds me of a mil-spec dry film lube that was used as a filler for clearance and anti-seize for single use actuators on ejection seat systems. Teflon was too sticky and would not self clear the high spots. Once baked at 400°f you could shave or sand it if you wanted to and it was insoluble in anything I've ever tried.
I was literally just thinking about doing something like this to a turbo yesterday, surely it has to be worth some horse power. Especially if it is done on say older parts/turbos that may have higher clearances just from wearing out.
Those compressor wheels look wild. Be cool to do some kind of test to measure how much flow the coating picks up.
Mold maker here. To measure those oil pump helix you need to scan it with a CMM and go against a CAD model. I've made molds making helix parts and that's pretty much what you have to do.
Merry CHRISTmas Steve and gang!!!
idk about oil pump coating I was thinking it might lock up before you said they tried anodized and locked up. it will be interesting to see if it works or locks up for sure,never know till you try
Merry Christmas to all! Remember the reason for the season.
Happy holidays to you and your family🎉👍
I have a feeling the oil pump will lock up when first assembled but I guess we will soon find out. If it does work i would be interested in the gains if any. Like anything, you won't know till you try, good luck.
You should send of that damaged pump section too. Just like Kyle's undersized pistons it might bring them back and you will have "free" spare parts.
Id be curious to see how the piston coating used on the pistons works when applied to a turbo housing. Being it helps with the piston fitting better in the bore id be curious if it would help with impeller clearance with a turbo
Hello Steve, appreciation to you. Great Wagon update, component efficiency R&D..
Thamks, Steve! Fighting bronchitis and pneumonia for the holidays. Hope all of you have a happy holiday, be sure to give Dewey a kiss for me!
Other than an experiment to see what happens, what are you trying to achieve by coating the turbos? It almost certainly bypasses some air, but you also aren't using all the possible boost they can generate. I guess the only thing I could see you getting is higher boost at lower turbo RPM, and I'm not sure that is a need based on exhaust flow at the starting line and going down the track.
Now what might be beneficial is that the compressed hot air may not be able to transfer that heat to the housing. Also the coating might help protect the housing in a touch down condition, thus saving the engine from ingesting aluminum flakes.
All of the above is my guess on the results for the turbos.
For the oil pump, if they want to anodize or other coating, they may need to machine the rotors slightly smaller (or polish them smaller) and specify the coating thickness to get to where they need to be. The oxide layer from anodize could help the parts last longer, same might go for the other coatings. Will be interesting to see the results from this test too.
Better efficiency = more workey, less heaty = lasty longer 😂
Exciting stuff. Man your brain is always working! Big brain guy! and thanks for sharing the speed secrets.
Merry Christmas to you and your family and crew!
Flow test the oil pump before and after if possible. And you’ll be able to tell in the tune if the turbos are moving more air
Dam I enjoy watching you and your crew. I'm oldish and reasonably knowledgable but boy haven't I learnt a thing or two recently.
The high helix is oil sealed in the center. Housing to rotor clearance is what's important. Money says it locks up if u coat the rotors.
So you're starting the reassembly by taking it apart some more? Got it Steve!!! lol...
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO THE STEVE MORRIS FAMILY!
Merry Xmas all! Thanks for the videos, and great swag!
Steve and crew, y'all rock! Happy Holidays! Peace 🤘
Merry Christmas Steve !
I think the biggest thing the rotor coating is going to do is reduce cavitation/airiation of the oil. Due to it trying to bypass between the rotors as you mentioned… That has to be creating some turbulence inside the pump housing.
Not to mention the way they work just like a blower… Basically “scooping” air or oil in this case, and “throwing” it out the bottom colliding into each other. It’s already a very turbulent situation to begin with… 👍🏻🤘🏻👏🏻
Great video Steve keep up the Great work!
After coating the pump lobes, will they be timed since they will basically wear to the companion lobe?
Line2line is right down the road from me. I planned on doing my oil pump and cams. Interested to see if i should do my turbo as well.
God bless you and your family sir and, MERRY CHRISTMAS 🙂
will the engine be ok when it ingests the coating ?
keep up the great work
All those rotors will need to be "timed" to each other and placed back exactly the same way they were "broken in" every time the pump is assembled/serviced. I think you can figure out why. Probably should have them numbered and timing marks placed on the rotors.
I would imagine that you could measure the clearance in the helix using plastigauge, but I wouldn't know what use it would be, as you'd have to measure at several different points, one at a time on each vein and like said above, they would have to be paired and timed for life for that info to be of any use at all.
Steve thanks for your videos, and yes, I do learn from the videos.
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas!
Should make a little bracket to mount an Rpm sensor for the oil pumps, that way ignition can be cut when the pump stops.
Or oil pressure safety cut off steve haha.
Are you worried at all about the engine breathing in some of the coating from the turbo? I'm not sure that it would do anything in the cylinders, but what about the sensors? They might be a dead head (no flow) kind of thing so it might not get there to foul anything up.
Interesting vid can't wait to see if it's a big help on oil pressure stands to reason it should, turbos I get nervous when pumping forced air with all the vibrations temp changes etc any possible chance of coating coming loose and head for engine..... just wondering lol
It made to self clearance and send the excess into the oil.
Buy putting the coating on oil pump are you reducing oil flow given less space. Or is it opposite with tighter clearance cause more pressure
Yes
Definitely see you at Bradenton for sick week!!! My local track!!!!
3:49 the reason your compressor wheel contacted the compressor cover in that manner is because of lateral thrust load and the thrust bearing tolerances wearing down. I believe it's called the thrust collar. But either way Bullseye will know that and correct it. In your case the compressor wheel doesn't have excessive "shaft play" axially because that's controlled by the clearance between the bearing bore diameter and the diameter of the turbine shaft. The thrust collar is what prevents excessive lateral movement or load in/out. Excuse the machinist in me
Correct
Not if it's wore out
@@NonotEver1 If the bearing are in good shape, (which they are) then there is nothing to "wear" out axially. So the focus comes back to the thrust collar.
But thanks for playing. 😁
@tomcoon9038 I'm talking about the shaft thanks for saying something stupid
@@tomcoon9038 I'm talking about the shaft thinks for playing
Hey Steve is there anyway you could do a video on h beam rods if you haven't already, what is a good brand and what brands to stay away from there are so many different ones on the market and heard that most are forged out of county all using the same dies and sold to or sent to different manufacturers for final machining and finishing was hoping that you could shed some light on this for me and others as well as h beam vs I beam and what realistic HP they can each handle
What about heat expansion on the rotor taking up the gap. The cad file makes it cold, then when running it expands. Im not saying the coating will cause a problem, just something to consider if a problem arises. Maybe do a load test cold and hot to see the resistance, then after the coating do a cold and hot load test to see where things are at.
That's why you have to change the oil after the break-in run, the material that was self clearanced is now in the oil.
@@Ole_CornPop for sure, aside from the immediate oil change, i was just throwing that out there since Steve was being critical of what he should get treated. First he was thinking the rotor and the housing, then withdrew the housing. Also he mentioned how anodizing alone locked up the pump and that the rotors are immeasurable. Since this part is highly toleranced and he didnt brainstorm out loud heat expansion, i mentioned it. The coating is quite sturdy, and although its clearanceable it may get close to what anodizing did. Again just throwing it out there, not predicting any problem.
Merry Christmas to you and yours!!!🎄🎋
How much horsepower does that 🐁mouse pad have Steve Thanks for the info
Hey quick question. Are you rebalancing the turbos? If you are removing the comp wheels and adding a coating to them are they going to be still in balance? Just a quick question? They are very expensive turbos wouldn’t want them to fail due to the balancing? But they may be fine I don’t know the specifics of the coating? But I think it’s a good idea to protect your turbos and taking up the gap.
“On today’s episode, Steve shares more of his wisdom, drops major knowledge, and flexes on his haters with some big boost makers.” 😂😂😂
Great content thanks for sharing
Looking forward to meeting you next month, I will be at the first event at So. Ga Motorsports Park. I got some stickers and a hat but couldn't find you to meet, hopefully can meet you this time
Awesome, I'll be there!
Two advanced college degrees, and Steve is still the best instructor I have had.
😁😁
I'm just thinking out loud but I would think it would take one full pass before those turbos fully break in that coding on the turbos.