Your father was, indeed, a wise man. No offense to and tire or tit bearers. Seriously, if you want to carry small birds around with you let your freak flag fly!
@@handsomerob1223 It was standard on all 1960-62 Chryslers it was a joint thing between Chrysler and Sylvania Lighting and it was not Neon I forget what it was
@@handsomerob1223 it wasn't neon, it was electroluminescent. Modern-day Mazdas use the same technology. The gauges were illuminated without light bulbs, but rather a high frequency voltage that made them glow.
@@c.brionkidder9232 Yup. Had a 62 Chrysler 300. That transformer would blow you out of your shoes if you messed with it without disconnecting the battery.
Pro tip: learn to swear in multiple languages. Gives you a wider repertoire and it’s helpful if you ever need to vent in a situation where it’s not appropriate. Spanish and Italian have some cognates and German is always fun to chew through. 😂
I'm in the midst of restoring 3 classics (pre 1980s) and I'm the calmest I've ever been working on cars. I'd rather rebuild and engine than service a new car
Wait that's 3 tonnes? No wonder you guys needed v8s in your cars to move the damn things. That's heavier than my CL valiant and HD Holden combined, both full sized cars btw
Little pro-ish tip (that I’m fond of): Put a hockey puck between your jack and the car. It’s like the perfect blend of strength and pliability for something that weighs as much as … well … a car. I have spoken.
@@ThePolaroid669 as someone who was saved from a “no brakes” situation because of having dual circuit braking, I still am a proponent of them. Granted, I had less braking ability, but would not have had any stopping ability without a dual circuit system.
There was a gang of early 60s Chryslers at a junk yard near me. I crammed every part I could into my 66 Dart and 67 Valiant. The twisting ejector seats took some doing but they were oh so worth it. Also, I get staying period correct but the five years later master cylinder swaps right in and reduces chance of that’s-the-hill-I-chose-to-die-on death by like a million percent. Also, also, totally subscribed. You had me at the Thrivent T-Shirt.
I forgot to mention, that legendary junk yard smashed everything and sold every bit to China for scrap back when they were paying stupid money for steel. I’m a tough guy but I literally cried actual tears.
You know Australian circa 1980 odd CM Valiant Diffs & front stub axle assemblies will swap straight over giving you large front ventilated disks with PBR alloy calibers, with the the newer balljoints hanging off, a nice thick sway bar & rear diff with big large diametre finned drums on it, oh don’t forget the twin circuit brake booster. I updated my VH (1971) Valiant wagon with CM (1980) parts in under a day & it made a huge difference. If you want I can sud out prices at local wreckers.
So many golden moments. Loved when the gas tank dropped, when the gas tank nut fell a million times. The comedy of these videos is just great. Thanks so much!
That trick always works... We drove our 66 El Camino exclusively with the heater on... "Thanks dad, it's Vegas on July, good thing we have a fan blowing on us to keep the engine cool"
@@Derkenblosh2 A trick that transcends oceans and political persuasions. I remember my dad trying to bake us alive in peak summer while stuck in a traffic jam on the outskirts of Prague in the far less cooler communist era 1.2L 49.2 hp Skoda 120.
That uneven cranking rhythm probably indicates you have a couple cylinders making poor compression. Hopefully that's not the case, but it tends to indicate the need for cylinder head/piston service.
If it clears up, it was junk on the valves and/or sticky rings. Just running it a while will take care of that. Valves that aren't fully closed will rust as a car sits, leading to poor compression on the first few starts.
while it's costly, it's not the worse thing that could happen with a car this old. even something ass silly as partially clogged lines will make an engine this old n powerfull explode lol. they are reliable, yes. until they aren't anymore.
Fun video! Take it from a 300F owner, get yourself a Uni-Syn to tune the carburetors. Also look up the 300G throttle and kickdown linkage adjustment procedure. It will make the car run much better. And I get at least 6 miles per gallon in mine.
Between the great oil bottle free throw average and the heater core blowing it's load all over Betty Boop's face, I will stay subscribed just a few hundred years longer.
The good news is, Chryslers were THEE Egghead Engineer's Car in the 50s and 60s, so you ought to eventually "get along" with it... They really were unique in certain aspects. It's always a good idea to obtain an original (or reprint) Shop Manual and Parts Catalog for your particular old car... A company called Bishko sells them. I'm sure that you know it... But I have to say that your witty commentary is as entertaining as watching VGG... Another of my favorites 😂 I'm also going to be your 30,000th Subscriber. Cheers!
25:16 Hey buddy, ratchet straps might help you with: gas tanks, transmissions, and exhaust systems in the future. 55 gallon oil drums are also helpful in lieu of a transmission jack, since you have a lift. Oil drums can also be gotten free from a local garage sometimes. Regarding tuning multiple carbs, as somebody in their late 30’s who knows NOTHING about “the magic fuel/vacuum box”, I think I remember watching a video of someone using multiple homemade manometers to balance carburetors to an engine. I know that’s vague and inexact, but you seem sharp and inventive enough that I doubt you need much more than that to figure out whether that’s helpful for your Chrysler or not.
Go to your local motorcycle shop. Motorcycles had carbs far, far longer than cars(some still do). And just about every last one has multiple of the fiddly bastards.
I worked on a number of these vehicles back starting in about 62 to 64. Just so you know, the left-hand threads on the right hand side of the car were there for a specific purpose. If you didn't get the lug nuts tight they would not fall off the car. All NASCARs have left hand threads on the right side of the car and right hand threads on the left side of the car. Even Formula 1 cars tightened to the rear loosen to the front
First video I've watched from you - thanks TH-cam! Previous owner(s) really loved that car. It's been well cared-for over the decades. It's good to see the next generation interested in keeping these beasts alive. I haven't read the comment section - not sure if anyone else has said what I'm about to say. A few points: - You don't need a jack rated for the entire weight of the car, as you are only jacking a corner of the car. In other words, you're not jacking all 4000+ pounds of the beast. A 2000 pound jack is more than sufficient. Where you may need to worry about the limitations of your jack is when you jack by the differential, or the front crossmember. If you're jacking up half the car at once, you will want to invest in a beefier jack. - Don't toss your old original parts, as you may be able to rebuild some yourself. The master cylinder isn't too complicated, and assuming the bore inside is still good, all you may need are a handful of correctly-sized o-rings rated for brake fluid - Hope you keep your original gas tank. It's serviceable. You can have it cleaned & re-coated (you can also have it coated on the outside) - it'll be as good as new again. Alternately, you could always sell it to someone else looking to keep their ride going. - Hope you replace other fuel rubber hoses as well as the one you discovered was plugged. The one up front in the engine compartment looked hard on camera, and it appeared to have micro cracks. - When you dismantled the carbs, they seemed to have carbon around the venturies. This would indicate a backfiring issue. Coupled with the fact you say it doesn't always run right, tells me it's either running too lean and/or you have a timing issue. I know you mentioned the choke wasn't disengaging, but I would still look into the correct tuning of the engine. If you're not comfortable, don't want to learn, or are totally lost when it comes to adjusting the mixture & synchronization of both carbs (yes, synchronization is a thing when you have more than one carburetor), seek out someone who is accustomed to carburetor tuning. - Unfortunately, we all face poorly-made chinese components. It's sad, really. People my age recall a time of quality. It's a real problem today, and it's not limited to just old cars, either. Cheap chinese parts on modern cars is a quick path to unreliability. - Chrysler wasn't the only American brand to have left-handed threads on one side of the vehicle. In fact, it was rather common in the 1960s & before. I believe Chrysler hung onto this practice for the longest time. It wasn't done to be different, but there is an engineering philosophy behind it. It wasn't necessary, and after the 1960s, everyone went to right-hand threads at every wheel. If there's a car or van that still uses left hand threads on the wheels, I haven't encountered it. - Yes, these cars are amazingly easy to work on (for the most part). Working under the dash on any vehicle has never been fun, and at least you don't need to drop the engine to service the most basic items. - This is an American luxury car, not a European one. Having zero road feel was a selling point - it meant anyone, including the dantiest of gents or ladies, could drive this beast. Luxury cars were an extension of your living room. Driving a luxury car was intended to be effortless, and extremely comfortable. Back in the day, if you wanted something with more road response, you'd purchase a sports car. MGs & Triumphs were all the rage back in the day. It wasn't until the 1980s when American manufacturers decided they needed their luxury vehicles to imitate the handling of foreign rides. The rest is history. Today, everything handles like a go-kart. Remember, most cars in the 1960s still didn't have power steering or power brakes. Couple this with a full-size car, and you have quite the beast to tame. Over-compensated power steering & brakes made these cars a dream to drive by comparison. - Prior to starting a cold engine with a carburetor, you need to pump the accelerator pedal 3-5 times (varies depending on the car - it's something you just learn). I noticed you didn't start to pump until after you engaged the starter, and even then, you were only pumping sparsely as you cranked. Priming the engine prior to cold-start puts raw fuel into the intake via the accelerator pumps, and usually sets the automatic choke, too. Naturally, priming won't do a bit of good if someone has a vintage car with no accelerator pump on the carburetor. If the engine doesn't start any easier after following this procedure, you need to look at timing, the gap of your points (if equipped), and your carburetor adjustments. When tuned correctly, these cars will start immediately after priming, and will be just as reliable as fuel injection. You seem to be eager to learn - over time everything will become easier. Eventually, it'll all be second nature. It's entirely mechanical - understanding the nature of the beast is conquering the beast. Having cut & bruised knuckles, as well as a bruised ego, is all part of the journey. Thanks for sharing - you have one beautiful car that will outlast all of us with just basic maintenance.
Gen-Z, iGen… mid 2000’s guy here. I find working on old cars very fun, and intriguing to see how we used to make things. Anyone else from the current or previous generation enjoy working on cars? Everyone I’ve ever asked this in school, their only hobby is video games, which is incredibly concerning…
I'm 21. After owning my 95 f150 with the 300, all of my vehicles will be similar to it. Somewhat easy to get parts for, no ripping out the dash for the evap core. (this is why ford was better than gm) crank and wing windows, Most of the electrical and computer controls are for the engine and trans. My next goal is a carbed f series and a stick.
Nice! I haven’t worked on any pickup trucks yet, but the simpler the better. I’ve got a 1969 Renault 16, weird little French shoebox, as simple as can be; And a 1981 Mercedes 240D, peak German engineering, immortal drivetrain, comfy. Both are manual, MB is mechanically fuel injected diesel, Renault is a carbureted little 1.6L.
Born in 97 so I don't know if you'd consider me to be in the same age-category but I feel you! I inherited my father's first car, a 1970 beetle. It had been sitting for decades after he had rolled it over in a crash so there was months of work after school and on weekends before I could even take it for a spin. But man oh man the sense of accomplishment and joy when I got that thing passed through inspection! I later bought a 2008 bmw for a daily driver and I hate working on that thing whenever something breaks😂
@C4_Corvette_man I don’t know much about Corvettes, but from what I’ve seen, they’re quite small compared to other American cars of the time, not a lot of room to work?
Millennial learning the things us Boomers took for granted. I cut my mechanic teeth on cars like that. Back when I was a youngster and turning wrenches regularly, I could change the water pump on a '63 Chevy in less than 20 minutes and always carried a toolbox in my trunk for emergency repairs. A friend and I once had to replace the head gasket on a Buick while parked on Army St. in San Francisco and we only had to feed the meter once. Nowadays, though, if my sweet little Honda ever broke down on the road I’d have to call AAA.
You’re very fortunate to have these sort of problems to solve. These old Mopars are just beautiful! A modern electronic ignition wouldn’t be a bad idea. The electric fan is a great move. I’ve got exactly that filter wrench. The White Rabbit sequence reminded me of my youth - love the humour! Subscribed!👍🏻🙂
Now i know why these cars sounds so nice, the exhaust is just a straight line 😂 I assume it has a muffler in the middle of the car, but still... Love it
I like the Jefferson Airplane music at the end. A lot of parts of my 67 imperial were hard to find also specially brake parts. yes, the good old days. I drive a Toyota now. 😢
Now that's a classic car! It's even got the fancy PA Historic tags! It's not everyday you see those. I only see the QQ plates due to being in Jersey, but those only come out in the summer for show season.
Bro, I feel you. It's just wrong to loosen lefty. I just did brakes on a 81 gmc c70. 10 double lugs rusted for thirty five years and there is something right about 6x6 wood cribbing, oxy-acetylene torches, 1" drive breaker bars and ten feet of drill pipe. It must be primal. Wood good, Fire good, Long metal stick good, Car that doesn't mind use of such good. That's a sweet rig and I envy your hydraulic lift.
Love the humor and bravery at taking on a mighty MOPAR like this. Subbed. Ya had me giggling. Mrs. Giggles did not appreciate said giggles. Seriously, Mopar has a lot of great history, welcome to the family.
Awesome car! Im happy to see you are not going to part it out.... My Dad and I bought a 61 NewYorker two door in 1997...Its still here and I finally have all the rust repair sections I need..... Look forward to seeing you get yours down the road! We are also in Pa
I drive a 1966 Buick Wildcat Custom Sport Coupe. I feel your pain. My fuel gauge would go from full to 1/4 to empty. A new sending unit solved that problem. I had to bypass the original fuel pump for my electric one.
That green permatex brake parts grease can cause some rubber formulations to swell. went through several sets of rubber bushings on my caliper slide pins before I figured out the issue. switched to the silicone stuff and haven't had an issue since. I still use for anything metal on metal but keep that crap away from rubber.
Great video as always. The newest junkyard digs video on the 70s Lincoln had some great info on carb tuning and timing, not sure if it would help your situation but I found it very insightful.
Everything you just described in the beginning is exactly what I'm going through saving my 89 Honda "Plucky the Prelude". At least now she's roadworthy (I say that as I'm knocking on wood). Edit: be careful using one of those fuel filters that twist together just like Vice Grip Garage I’ve had mine come loose and luckily I had a fire extinguisher ready to go.
A few tips for anyone working on old cars: - NEVER use glass fuel filters unless you want a campfire in your engine bay - jerry rig a fuel system before messing with mechanical fuel pumps, fuel tanks and lines - compression, fuel, spark - make sure some idiot hasn't messed with the dissy (every classic ive got had the timing WAY out) - starters are most likely gummed up so i always pull em out and lube them up and get them spinning abit faster - oh and just a good habit to get used to is spraying every nut and bolt and if it gets tight when your loosening it, then do it back up and spray it some more. It could take 5-10 minutes on one nut but its easier than replacing them especially if its a stud in the block or something
Loved the video. At the end, when you said 'Four miles to the gallon', I converted that to km/l because that is something I do understand. Good golly I hope the fuel economy goes up a little! What a beautiful car, it would be nice if you could afford a ride once every while ...
When that car was made no one was too concerned about fuel economy. We thought oil would last forever. The fuel capacity of the vehicle is 87 liters and that would only last a week of slightly below average driving. It's a thirsty ride.
You really dont need an electronic pump they sre more work and your engine will still probably run worse. Just keep the mechanical pump and install a feul regulator and measure the pressure and get it to where the your cars spec sheets says its supposed to be at.
Make sure the exhaust heat transfer tubes that connect to the underside of the intake manifolds are there and connected.A street engine needs the heat to help atomization of the fuel for better drivability,particularly at low speeds.
What I would give for a collaborative video between you and Derek. This was quite a ride, thanks for sharing. I have a 1960 Thunderbird that I bought in 1992. She is six years my senior, and our journey together has been - well, there are no words. She’s currently parked with brake issues that no one can solve, and I certainly don’t have your skill or patience to attempt it on my own.
I'll have you know that thanks to your teachings I have probably successfully changed brake pads and rotors on my 2006 Toyota Corolla! It was somewhat similar undertaking for me as what you were doing to that insanely beautiful Chrysler of yours, if we compare our levels of technical knowledge and general competence, so I feel both your plight and feelings of accomplishment 👍😀
This video is fantastic! I had a '62 Imperial, which was a similarly charming Exner era Chrysler, engendering similar invective during repair projects!! Saw the PA antique plates and reference to coal country, so hope to see Blue at some car shows in the area.
Great video! I could taste the dirt falling in your face during the fuel tank install. The cross rams are known to be very cold blooded even for carbureted engines due to the runners being so massive. They take a long time to heat up to the point where atomized fuel doesn't condensate on them instead of reaching the engine.
The 60 Chrysler service manual describes which way to turn the brake adjusters. To tighten, you turn in the direction of the forward rotation of the wheel. This is while looking at the wheel from the inside. Only ones this doesn't apply are the rear adjusters on the rear wheels. Those adjust with the rearward rotation of the wheels.
Oh boy! I’ve run into all those issues with my 62 NYer! Actually have my transistor oscillator out and on the bench now. What did you replace on it? What a rare 61 you have with the cross ram! Love it!!!!
@@creativeloafer9792 it's always the capacitor. But get an AVR transistortestor just to make sure. They're sold as just transistor testers. But they test everything. Not great but go no go good enough. They're cheap too.
Those drum brakes that are solid mounted on the bottom with the eccentrics for adjustment do not self energise. The ones with the starwheel adjusters float at the bottom so the leading shoe pushes the trailing shoe into the drum harder. Ihat is why the trailing shoe has a longer piece of brake lining on it. BTW the nut for the tapered wheel bearings should not really be tight. The nut is how you set the bearing preload.
I went through a $400 1984 F250 with a 6.9/4 speed a few years back and made it road worthy again. Driver’s side wheel studs were left hand thread front and back. That explained why PO had broken two of them off the rear. I replaced the entire side with right hand threaded studs. I know me very well and there’s a 95% chance that prevented some complete meltdown on the side of the road five years from now. When you are only mildl retarded in short bursts you have to be your own caregiver.
@@jamesbosworth4191 Thought I replied to this. Whoops. 6.9 IDI International Harvester diesel engine. Offered from 1983-1987 and replaced by the 7.3 IDI diesel (by then Navistar).
To make things easier when installing a fuel tank, use a floor jack & a length of 2"x 4" (or 4"x 4") between the jack pad & a section of plywood, resting against the bottom of the fuel tank (the plywood prevents a concentrated load against the tank's sheet steel, which could cause bending). Then, simply raise the tank until the holes in the ends of the tank securing straps can be easily fit onto the tank strap bolts. If you install the fuel tank with the car close to the floor (with the car either on or off a lift), a floor jack & a plywood section may be all that's needed (without need for intermediate "length" piece). I discovered this trick years ago, after much effort, trying to install a fuel tank with no tank lift assist, as you had done.
Check that the carbs are not running too lean. You will get heat issues. I don't know if the car have a similar setup, with the kick-down rod also controlling the gearbox pressure, as in the -69 T&C (383 HP + 727). A slight adjustment on that can do a world of change.
I've got a 61 Chrysler Newport. I can confirm the hassle of maintenance. Almost everything on the right is right threaded and vice versa. And just about everything that should easily be standard is "unique." But god I love it.
My dad always told me to expect issues anytime it involves tires or tits.
ill buy a boat then
@@Chevdriver If it floats, flies, or, er, "makes love" - lease it!
Smart Man
@@Chevdriver you just doubled down
Your father was, indeed, a wise man. No offense to and tire or tit bearers. Seriously, if you want to carry small birds around with you let your freak flag fly!
The gas tank inspection cut to Pennywise had me rolling dude
I was only half looking at the screen when that came on and i was wondering if i actually saw that so rewinded
CHINA! gave me a good laugh too.
Yessssss, I actually laughed out loud which I hardly ever do 😂
That has to be the coolest instrument panel I've ever seen!
I forget if it’s “standard “ or an option but it’s neon! It has a 300volt transformer to run it.
@@handsomerob1223 It was standard on all 1960-62 Chryslers it was a joint thing between Chrysler and Sylvania Lighting and it was not Neon I forget what it was
@@handsomerob1223 it wasn't neon, it was electroluminescent. Modern-day Mazdas use the same technology. The gauges were illuminated without light bulbs, but rather a high frequency voltage that made them glow.
The Astrodome as they called it was indeed far and above the coolest IP ever.
@@c.brionkidder9232 Yup. Had a 62 Chrysler 300. That transformer would blow you out of your shoes if you messed with it without disconnecting the battery.
I felt it in my soul watching you trying to thread that tank strap in. Criminally under-viewed TH-camr.
Criminaly underviewed? Come on pal.
@@retroolschool ???
If you haven't called her every name in that book plus make some made up ones , are you really working on a classic car?
Pro tip: learn to swear in multiple languages. Gives you a wider repertoire and it’s helpful if you ever need to vent in a situation where it’s not appropriate. Spanish and Italian have some cognates and German is always fun to chew through. 😂
@@rob2257 the german ones just sound like gibberish most of the time but they sure are fun
I'm in the midst of restoring 3 classics (pre 1980s) and I'm the calmest I've ever been working on cars. I'd rather rebuild and engine than service a new car
Wait that's 3 tonnes? No wonder you guys needed v8s in your cars to move the damn things. That's heavier than my CL valiant and HD Holden combined, both full sized cars btw
four barrel twin carb as well.
Little pro-ish tip (that I’m fond of):
Put a hockey puck between your jack and the car. It’s like the perfect blend of strength and pliability for something that weighs as much as … well … a car.
I have spoken.
This is the way.
What if we're not Canadian and don't have hockey pucks laying around??
@@JohnZombi88lololol
larryenticer.avi
@@JohnZombi88... this is the way
@@JohnZombi88 you must seek a member of the Canuck clan and befriend them.
I have spoken.
Replace the single reservoir master brake cylinder to a dual reservoir master cylinder to help you avoid the whole no brakes issue again
I have been there, just don't ask for details. It got kinda fuzzy after the brakes went out. My '65 Plymouth taught me that lesson.
There are also disc brake conversion kits out there. Brake fade is no fun.
dual master cylinder doesn't guarantee no brakes..
@@ThePolaroid669 as someone who was saved from a “no brakes” situation because of having dual circuit braking, I still am a proponent of them. Granted, I had less braking ability, but would not have had any stopping ability without a dual circuit system.
What an absolutely gorgeous vehicle! Thank you for saving that from being parted out.
There's no way that one should be parted out... It's too rare if the Cross Rams were ordered originally.
Not many Dual Four New Yorkers were built.
11:25
Doubtful Technician: "This might be easy!"
Me: "Never tempt fate! You fool!"
There was a gang of early 60s Chryslers at a junk yard near me. I crammed every part I could into my 66 Dart and 67 Valiant. The twisting ejector seats took some doing but they were oh so worth it.
Also, I get staying period correct but the five years later master cylinder swaps right in and reduces chance of that’s-the-hill-I-chose-to-die-on death by like a million percent.
Also, also, totally subscribed. You had me at the Thrivent T-Shirt.
I forgot to mention, that legendary junk yard smashed everything and sold every bit to China for scrap back when they were paying stupid money for steel. I’m a tough guy but I literally cried actual tears.
You know Australian circa 1980 odd CM Valiant Diffs & front stub axle assemblies will swap straight over giving you large front ventilated disks with PBR alloy calibers, with the the newer balljoints hanging off, a nice thick sway bar & rear diff with big large diametre finned drums on it, oh don’t forget the twin circuit brake booster. I updated my VH (1971) Valiant wagon with CM (1980) parts in under a day & it made a huge difference. If you want I can sud out prices at local wreckers.
Don't know how I found you but this is the only channel where I reliably watch every video that comes out. Best content on YT
So many golden moments. Loved when the gas tank dropped, when the gas tank nut fell a million times. The comedy of these videos is just great. Thanks so much!
When it's hot out I suggest turning on the heater, full blast. Makes a difference keeping it from pissing itself.
That trick always works... We drove our 66 El Camino exclusively with the heater on... "Thanks dad, it's Vegas on July, good thing we have a fan blowing on us to keep the engine cool"
@@Derkenblosh2 A trick that transcends oceans and political persuasions. I remember my dad trying to bake us alive in peak summer while stuck in a traffic jam on the outskirts of Prague in the far less cooler communist era 1.2L 49.2 hp Skoda 120.
Yup. Had to do this on my '64 Skylark. Meant the difference between the HOT idiot light being on or off.
That uneven cranking rhythm probably indicates you have a couple cylinders making poor compression. Hopefully that's not the case, but it tends to indicate the need for cylinder head/piston service.
If it clears up, it was junk on the valves and/or sticky rings. Just running it a while will take care of that. Valves that aren't fully closed will rust as a car sits, leading to poor compression on the first few starts.
while it's costly, it's not the worse thing that could happen with a car this old. even something ass silly as partially clogged lines will make an engine this old n powerfull explode lol.
they are reliable, yes. until they aren't anymore.
Fun video! Take it from a 300F owner, get yourself a Uni-Syn to tune the carburetors. Also look up the 300G throttle and kickdown linkage adjustment procedure. It will make the car run much better. And I get at least 6 miles per gallon in mine.
I’m 19 with a 66’ Oldsmobile 98, suped up freshly rebuilt 425 Rocket with a stage 2 quadrajet and I get like 14 city…..6 mpg is insane I could never
Between the great oil bottle free throw average and the heater core blowing it's load all over Betty Boop's face, I will stay subscribed just a few hundred years longer.
The good news is, Chryslers were THEE Egghead Engineer's Car in the 50s and 60s, so you ought to eventually "get along" with it...
They really were unique in certain aspects.
It's always a good idea to obtain an original (or reprint) Shop Manual and Parts Catalog for your particular old car... A company called Bishko sells them.
I'm sure that you know it... But I have to say that your witty commentary is as entertaining as watching VGG... Another of my favorites 😂
I'm also going to be your 30,000th Subscriber.
Cheers!
25:16 Hey buddy, ratchet straps might help you with: gas tanks, transmissions, and exhaust systems in the future. 55 gallon oil drums are also helpful in lieu of a transmission jack, since you have a lift. Oil drums can also be gotten free from a local garage sometimes.
Regarding tuning multiple carbs, as somebody in their late 30’s who knows NOTHING about “the magic fuel/vacuum box”, I think I remember watching a video of someone using multiple homemade manometers to balance carburetors to an engine. I know that’s vague and inexact, but you seem sharp and inventive enough that I doubt you need much more than that to figure out whether that’s helpful for your Chrysler or not.
Go to your local motorcycle shop. Motorcycles had carbs far, far longer than cars(some still do). And just about every last one has multiple of the fiddly bastards.
@@calvinbarnes1721 my Honda has 6. One per cylinder. But I grew up with carbs. No big deal.
I worked on a number of these vehicles back starting in about 62 to 64.
Just so you know, the left-hand threads on the right hand side of the car were there for a specific purpose. If you didn't get the lug nuts tight they would not fall off the car. All NASCARs have left hand threads on the right side of the car and right hand threads on the left side of the car. Even Formula 1 cars tightened to the rear loosen to the front
Christine the sequel. One thing I’ll buy you a real floor jack. It’s a good thing you reenforced your floor
Hopefully all the pain was worth it to fix this rolling art piece. Thank you for fixing this beauty up!
First video I've watched from you - thanks TH-cam! Previous owner(s) really loved that car. It's been well cared-for over the decades. It's good to see the next generation interested in keeping these beasts alive. I haven't read the comment section - not sure if anyone else has said what I'm about to say. A few points:
- You don't need a jack rated for the entire weight of the car, as you are only jacking a corner of the car. In other words, you're not jacking all 4000+ pounds of the beast. A 2000 pound jack is more than sufficient. Where you may need to worry about the limitations of your jack is when you jack by the differential, or the front crossmember. If you're jacking up half the car at once, you will want to invest in a beefier jack.
- Don't toss your old original parts, as you may be able to rebuild some yourself. The master cylinder isn't too complicated, and assuming the bore inside is still good, all you may need are a handful of correctly-sized o-rings rated for brake fluid
- Hope you keep your original gas tank. It's serviceable. You can have it cleaned & re-coated (you can also have it coated on the outside) - it'll be as good as new again. Alternately, you could always sell it to someone else looking to keep their ride going.
- Hope you replace other fuel rubber hoses as well as the one you discovered was plugged. The one up front in the engine compartment looked hard on camera, and it appeared to have micro cracks.
- When you dismantled the carbs, they seemed to have carbon around the venturies. This would indicate a backfiring issue. Coupled with the fact you say it doesn't always run right, tells me it's either running too lean and/or you have a timing issue. I know you mentioned the choke wasn't disengaging, but I would still look into the correct tuning of the engine. If you're not comfortable, don't want to learn, or are totally lost when it comes to adjusting the mixture & synchronization of both carbs (yes, synchronization is a thing when you have more than one carburetor), seek out someone who is accustomed to carburetor tuning.
- Unfortunately, we all face poorly-made chinese components. It's sad, really. People my age recall a time of quality. It's a real problem today, and it's not limited to just old cars, either. Cheap chinese parts on modern cars is a quick path to unreliability.
- Chrysler wasn't the only American brand to have left-handed threads on one side of the vehicle. In fact, it was rather common in the 1960s & before. I believe Chrysler hung onto this practice for the longest time. It wasn't done to be different, but there is an engineering philosophy behind it. It wasn't necessary, and after the 1960s, everyone went to right-hand threads at every wheel. If there's a car or van that still uses left hand threads on the wheels, I haven't encountered it.
- Yes, these cars are amazingly easy to work on (for the most part). Working under the dash on any vehicle has never been fun, and at least you don't need to drop the engine to service the most basic items.
- This is an American luxury car, not a European one. Having zero road feel was a selling point - it meant anyone, including the dantiest of gents or ladies, could drive this beast. Luxury cars were an extension of your living room. Driving a luxury car was intended to be effortless, and extremely comfortable. Back in the day, if you wanted something with more road response, you'd purchase a sports car. MGs & Triumphs were all the rage back in the day. It wasn't until the 1980s when American manufacturers decided they needed their luxury vehicles to imitate the handling of foreign rides. The rest is history. Today, everything handles like a go-kart. Remember, most cars in the 1960s still didn't have power steering or power brakes. Couple this with a full-size car, and you have quite the beast to tame. Over-compensated power steering & brakes made these cars a dream to drive by comparison.
- Prior to starting a cold engine with a carburetor, you need to pump the accelerator pedal 3-5 times (varies depending on the car - it's something you just learn). I noticed you didn't start to pump until after you engaged the starter, and even then, you were only pumping sparsely as you cranked. Priming the engine prior to cold-start puts raw fuel into the intake via the accelerator pumps, and usually sets the automatic choke, too. Naturally, priming won't do a bit of good if someone has a vintage car with no accelerator pump on the carburetor. If the engine doesn't start any easier after following this procedure, you need to look at timing, the gap of your points (if equipped), and your carburetor adjustments. When tuned correctly, these cars will start immediately after priming, and will be just as reliable as fuel injection.
You seem to be eager to learn - over time everything will become easier. Eventually, it'll all be second nature. It's entirely mechanical - understanding the nature of the beast is conquering the beast. Having cut & bruised knuckles, as well as a bruised ego, is all part of the journey. Thanks for sharing - you have one beautiful car that will outlast all of us with just basic maintenance.
This was pretty entertaining... at least for us, lol Good thing those brakes went out next to your house and not downhill somewhere far away.
Dude thats a gorgeous car.
Dude - one of the best videos of this type on the entire YT system!! Love your sense of humor and your abilities! New subscriber here!
New subscriber here too! Great video!
I just came here to applaud the best thumbnail EVER! It speaks to me.
Gen-Z, iGen… mid 2000’s guy here. I find working on old cars very fun, and intriguing to see how we used to make things. Anyone else from the current or previous generation enjoy working on cars? Everyone I’ve ever asked this in school, their only hobby is video games, which is incredibly concerning…
I'm 21. After owning my 95 f150 with the 300, all of my vehicles will be similar to it. Somewhat easy to get parts for, no ripping out the dash for the evap core. (this is why ford was better than gm) crank and wing windows, Most of the electrical and computer controls are for the engine and trans. My next goal is a carbed f series and a stick.
Nice! I haven’t worked on any pickup trucks yet, but the simpler the better. I’ve got a 1969 Renault 16, weird little French shoebox, as simple as can be; And a 1981 Mercedes 240D, peak German engineering, immortal drivetrain, comfy. Both are manual, MB is mechanically fuel injected diesel, Renault is a carbureted little 1.6L.
@@sQuEeZyMaN13 I got a 1968 Corvette and it is hell to work on
Born in 97 so I don't know if you'd consider me to be in the same age-category but I feel you! I inherited my father's first car, a 1970 beetle. It had been sitting for decades after he had rolled it over in a crash so there was months of work after school and on weekends before I could even take it for a spin. But man oh man the sense of accomplishment and joy when I got that thing passed through inspection!
I later bought a 2008 bmw for a daily driver and I hate working on that thing whenever something breaks😂
@C4_Corvette_man I don’t know much about Corvettes, but from what I’ve seen, they’re quite small compared to other American cars of the time, not a lot of room to work?
So many times I've help my dad with his old Chevrolets. I enjoyed this a little too much. Thanks!
Millennial learning the things we Gen Xers had to learn, at least the ones that dabbled in Mechanical Alchemy. Value: Priceless.
Millennial learning the things us Boomers took for granted. I cut my mechanic teeth on cars like that. Back when I was a youngster and turning wrenches regularly, I could change the water pump on a '63 Chevy in less than 20 minutes and always carried a toolbox in my trunk for emergency repairs. A friend and I once had to replace the head gasket on a Buick while parked on Army St. in San Francisco and we only had to feed the meter once. Nowadays, though, if my sweet little Honda ever broke down on the road I’d have to call AAA.
You’re very fortunate to have these sort of problems to solve. These old Mopars are just beautiful! A modern electronic ignition wouldn’t be a bad idea. The electric fan is a great move. I’ve got exactly that filter wrench. The White Rabbit sequence reminded me of my youth - love the humour! Subscribed!👍🏻🙂
I didn't know I needed a SuperFastMatt-Millenial Edition, until now. Subscribed.
Now i know why these cars sounds so nice, the exhaust is just a straight line 😂
I assume it has a muffler in the middle of the car, but still... Love it
Excellent video, I watched from beginning to end and it's 3 AM.
I like the Jefferson Airplane music at the end. A lot of parts of my 67 imperial were hard to find also specially brake parts. yes, the good old days. I drive a Toyota now. 😢
Fantastic Video !!!! We agree on many things !!! and Chryslers !!! Im an Imperial guy myself. 66 to be exact. 440 Flavor !!!!
was so happy to see this released, and 40 minutes too, thank you man please keep uploading
Love the astrodome dash in those early 60s Chryslers.
IDK about you, this is therapeutical. A moment of Total Zen
You can never go wrong with a forward look Chrysler. They make awesome cars, I have had several.
I love old Chrysler intakes
wow...a cross ram 413. Usually in just the 300 F and G...a unicorn in a NY. This car is in on my bucket list, even without the cross rams. Gorgeous
Back when instruments were points of honor... Always neat to see those old ones glowing bright like that.
Now that's a classic car! It's even got the fancy PA Historic tags! It's not everyday you see those. I only see the QQ plates due to being in Jersey, but those only come out in the summer for show season.
I usually hate people yapping on video's like this, but you are hysterical.😂 You are right up there with This Old Tony.
The Chopin B minor Scherzo #1 (00:38) was a perfect intro for a vintage car repair video, portending all the stress and struggle that was to follow!
Is this meant to be a joke
@@JJBblitzballno. It's right on.
1:10, an engineer would design and make a bigger cup/pedestal for that floor jack to disperse the load more.
Matter of time before this channel is up there with the big boys. Great content man! Editing, all of
f it!
Service Manual. Might need the 1960 if 1961 is only a supplement. Many questions answered.
Bro, I feel you. It's just wrong to loosen lefty. I just did brakes on a 81 gmc c70. 10 double lugs rusted for thirty five years and there is something right about 6x6 wood cribbing, oxy-acetylene torches, 1" drive breaker bars and ten feet of drill pipe. It must be primal. Wood good, Fire good, Long metal stick good, Car that doesn't mind use of such good.
That's a sweet rig and I envy your hydraulic lift.
Love the humor and bravery at taking on a mighty MOPAR like this. Subbed. Ya had me giggling. Mrs. Giggles did not appreciate said giggles. Seriously, Mopar has a lot of great history, welcome to the family.
Pro tip: if you you have the chance to do it, convert over any vehicle without an ABS sytem to DOT5 brake fluid it will last forever
Is that what they use in semis?
@@JohnZombi88 Semis use air.
Why? Expand.
My classic Dacia has no abs but I only use Dot3 and 4.
Awesome car! Im happy to see you are not going to part it out.... My Dad and I bought a 61 NewYorker two door in 1997...Its still here and I finally have all the rust repair sections I need..... Look forward to seeing you get yours down the road! We are also in Pa
Use a hockey puck on your jack's lift point instead of cardboard.
...*.Rubber... Always use rubbers, sometimes two
I drive a 1966 Buick Wildcat Custom Sport Coupe. I feel your pain. My fuel gauge would go from full to 1/4 to empty. A new sending unit solved that problem. I had to bypass the original fuel pump for my electric one.
Favorite youtuber for a while. Kindly upload more roaming in your land videos.
That green permatex brake parts grease can cause some rubber formulations to swell. went through several sets of rubber bushings on my caliper slide pins before I figured out the issue. switched to the silicone stuff and haven't had an issue since. I still use for anything metal on metal but keep that crap away from rubber.
This car has perhaps the coolest dash ever
Great video as always. The newest junkyard digs video on the 70s Lincoln had some great info on carb tuning and timing, not sure if it would help your situation but I found it very insightful.
Everything you just described in the beginning is exactly what I'm going through saving my 89 Honda "Plucky the Prelude". At least now she's roadworthy (I say that as I'm knocking on wood).
Edit: be careful using one of those fuel filters that twist together just like Vice Grip Garage I’ve had mine come loose and luckily I had a fire extinguisher ready to go.
Keep wrenching as you are doing a great job!
A few tips for anyone working on old cars:
- NEVER use glass fuel filters unless you want a campfire in your engine bay
- jerry rig a fuel system before messing with mechanical fuel pumps, fuel tanks and lines
- compression, fuel, spark
- make sure some idiot hasn't messed with the dissy (every classic ive got had the timing WAY out)
- starters are most likely gummed up so i always pull em out and lube them up and get them spinning abit faster
- oh and just a good habit to get used to is spraying every nut and bolt and if it gets tight when your loosening it, then do it back up and spray it some more. It could take 5-10 minutes on one nut but its easier than replacing them especially if its a stud in the block or something
Loved the video. At the end, when you said 'Four miles to the gallon', I converted that to km/l because that is something I do understand. Good golly I hope the fuel economy goes up a little! What a beautiful car, it would be nice if you could afford a ride once every while ...
When that car was made no one was too concerned about fuel economy. We thought oil would last forever. The fuel capacity of the vehicle is 87 liters and that would only last a week of slightly below average driving. It's a thirsty ride.
Looks like you broke through the YT algo. Gaining subs by the thousands! Congrats! The pennywise bit @9:55 was subtle....very subtle!
I really enjoyed this. The car stuff and your sense of humor are right up my alley. You earned yourself a sub today, sir!
Problems aside, that is one absolutely gorgeous car! Who needs brakes when you have *curves*?
You really dont need an electronic pump they sre more work and your engine will still probably run worse. Just keep the mechanical pump and install a feul regulator and measure the pressure and get it to where the your cars spec sheets says its supposed to be at.
Make sure the exhaust heat transfer tubes that connect to the underside of the intake manifolds are there and connected.A street engine needs the heat to help atomization of the fuel for better drivability,particularly at low speeds.
I really live watching you struggle! It makes me feel so much better as I thought only I did things the hard way all alone…
My new favorite car channel. Thanks for posting.
You're brilliant, this is so excellent, I'll be watching!
What I would give for a collaborative video between you and Derek. This was quite a ride, thanks for sharing. I have a 1960 Thunderbird that I bought in 1992. She is six years my senior, and our journey together has been - well, there are no words. She’s currently parked with brake issues that no one can solve, and I certainly don’t have your skill or patience to attempt it on my own.
you're a legend! i will definitely be looking forward to your future vids. +1 sub
I'll have you know that thanks to your teachings I have probably successfully changed brake pads and rotors on my 2006 Toyota Corolla!
It was somewhat similar undertaking for me as what you were doing to that insanely beautiful Chrysler of yours, if we compare our levels of technical knowledge and general competence, so I feel both your plight and feelings of accomplishment 👍😀
Brand new to the channel, not even sure how I got here.
But I'm loving the little insert edits, keep it up.
This was hilarious dude. I’m glad your channel got recommended to me 😂
This video is fantastic! I had a '62 Imperial, which was a similarly charming Exner era Chrysler, engendering similar invective during repair projects!! Saw the PA antique plates and reference to coal country, so hope to see Blue at some car shows in the area.
Great video! I could taste the dirt falling in your face during the fuel tank install. The cross rams are known to be very cold blooded even for carbureted engines due to the runners being so massive. They take a long time to heat up to the point where atomized fuel doesn't condensate on them instead of reaching the engine.
Such a beautiful beast of a car!!!!! Happy to see another New Yorker going back on the road!
7:12 love the dad's truck... its just like mine. Nothing beats an 80s bullnose f150.
Omg, I love your sense of humor. Hahhahahha, this was a fantastic watch. XD
Fun video! Really makes me want to work on my landyacht.
Subbed.
14:18 Crank crank crank no start. I grew up on a Dodge farm. That’s the music of my people.
Oh, so my Dakota taking two to three attempts is normal. Thank God, I thought it was something serious.
@@cavalierliberty6838 it starts after you crank it a few times? You sure it’s a Dodge?
lol I have an 87 Dakota so I can joke about Mopars.
@@Ian-of9oi my 96 seems hesitant, but that V8 does eventually come alive.
My 85 Shelby dodge started every time....
Teflon tape does not belong on the flared fittings. Teflon tape is only for tapered pipe thread
One of my all time favorite cars... and soo easy to work on
I love your cuts, entertaining walkthrough!
I have been working on my Dads 65 Impala SS with him. This video shares many things we went through.
ALL the VGG references & clean-up // fix styles are definitely a laugh.
I had to laugh that he still bought the "engine fire 9000" fuel filter tho 😂
@@zacharykelly7434 I think the 9000 part is probably a giveaway to something Derek probably watched as teen in the 90s.
The 60 Chrysler service manual describes which way to turn the brake adjusters. To tighten, you turn in the direction of the forward rotation of the wheel. This is while looking at the wheel from the inside. Only ones this doesn't apply are the rear adjusters on the rear wheels. Those adjust with the rearward rotation of the wheels.
Oh boy! I’ve run into all those issues with my 62 NYer! Actually have my transistor oscillator out and on the bench now. What did you replace on it?
What a rare 61 you have with the cross ram! Love it!!!!
Just the capacitor! Everything else was fine.
Thank you!!!!
@@creativeloafer9792 it's always the capacitor. But get an AVR transistortestor just to make sure. They're sold as just transistor testers. But they test everything. Not great but go no go good enough. They're cheap too.
Those drum brakes that are solid mounted on the bottom with the eccentrics for adjustment do not self energise. The ones with the starwheel adjusters float at the bottom so the leading shoe pushes the trailing shoe into the drum harder. Ihat is why the trailing shoe has a longer piece of brake lining on it.
BTW the nut for the tapered wheel bearings should not really be tight. The nut is how you set the bearing preload.
Making it to tight will ruin the bearings.
I went through a $400 1984 F250 with a 6.9/4 speed a few years back and made it road worthy again. Driver’s side wheel studs were left hand thread front and back. That explained why PO had broken two of them off the rear. I replaced the entire side with right hand threaded studs. I know me very well and there’s a 95% chance that prevented some complete meltdown on the side of the road five years from now.
When you are only mildl retarded in short bursts you have to be your own caregiver.
6.9?
@@jamesbosworth4191 International Harvester 420ci diesel engine offered in Ford 3/4+ ton pickups 1983-1987.
@@jamesbosworth4191 Thought I replied to this. Whoops.
6.9 IDI International Harvester diesel engine. Offered from 1983-1987 and replaced by the 7.3 IDI diesel (by then Navistar).
If you find out who put that thread tape on the flare nut at the fuel pump, tell them I'm mad at them.
Another great video! Learned a little and laughed a lot! 😄
To make things easier when installing a fuel tank, use a floor jack & a length of 2"x 4" (or 4"x 4") between the jack pad & a section of plywood, resting against the bottom of the fuel tank (the plywood prevents a concentrated load against the tank's sheet steel, which could cause bending). Then, simply raise the tank until the holes in the ends of the tank securing straps can be easily fit onto the tank strap bolts.
If you install the fuel tank with the car close to the floor (with the car either on or off a lift), a floor jack & a plywood section may be all that's needed (without need for intermediate "length" piece).
I discovered this trick years ago, after much effort, trying to install a fuel tank with no tank lift assist, as you had done.
Keep working on it and get it running great
happy your keeping this old girl going
did the long rams come factory or were they added later
Check that the carbs are not running too lean. You will get heat issues.
I don't know if the car have a similar setup, with the kick-down rod also controlling the gearbox pressure, as in the -69 T&C (383 HP + 727). A slight adjustment on that can do a world of change.
I subscribed at the bad gas joke. Keep up the good work.
I've got a 61 Chrysler Newport. I can confirm the hassle of maintenance. Almost everything on the right is right threaded and vice versa. And just about everything that should easily be standard is "unique." But god I love it.