Copart 2001 Ford F150 4x4 Suspension Rebuild Pt 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- Get Swag Here: tinyurl.com/AA...
Find the true history of salvage auction cars: autoauctions.i...
Get your $4.89 CarFax or AutoCheck here: www.autovhr.com...
Let Your Mechanic come to YOU for repairs ($10 off here):
www.yourmechan...
Get Honey FREE and start saving now: www.joinhoney....
Join me on Instagram: / autoauctionrebuilds
Follow me on Twitter: / arebuilds
#Copart #F150 #Rebuild
IMO 'your best instructional/sharing video yet'! You've taken us on an explanatory cruise of AMERICAN truck front end parts that do go bad and are a pain.
TH-cam should be proud of you for the excellent repair video AND for doing it outside in freezing wet weather in the middle of a storm AND you lost POWER! Yes, I dipped in the archives for this older video but you just blew it out of the water on this one. Makes you SPECIAL! Sonny (CT)
Man, chrisfix out here saving lives lol, i love it.
Plenty of good grunts in this video. Scotty Kilmer would be proud!
Working on a car in the blistering cold is as painful and miserable as it gets. And just when you think you're home free, something goes wrong and you've got more work to do. So, I'm glad Randy's having a relatively easy time with this mod. Thanks for making these videos, man. It's given me the motivation to do a lot more work on my car instead of paying others to do it for me. Not only do you know it was done right, but with quality parts as well.
On my truck, last year, I did the same as you, replace just about every wear item on the front. When I removed the steering components, from outer-tie-rod to outer-tie-rod, when it came to the pitman arm, I used the same pitman arm puller as you and I failed. My success came when I used the Harborfreight Ball Joint separator. You used it before, I remember you using one in another video, but I can't remember which. I do remember that it separated a control arm and when it did it was spectacular. On mine, the "fork" of the separator was a bit narrow for a pitman, so I used a grinder to make it a tiny bit wider. If you ever decide to go this route, use face protection and hearing protection. It comes off with ease, but it is spectacular, which I'm sure you remember.
Hi Randy:
Enjoyed the Red F150 repair.
2 suggestions:
1. Laying on cold cement with card board in the winter is one way to Really get sick!
Have you considered purchasing a floor creeper.?
2. Purchasing a pair of insulated work Overalls? Working in jeans and a leather jacket cannot be warm.
Also doesn’t help your cold.
You make it look easy Randy. And without cussing !!!
Great video Randy. I've owned an 2002 F150 4X4 since new and I remember there was a ball-joint recall. Never got it done and she's still steering OK at 250,000 mi. Of course it's lived it's life as a city-slicker with no serious off-roading.
Yeah, soaking everything before hand does help a lot. Also takes a bit of extra time filming as well. Very good instructional, especially cleaning things before reassembly. Amazing how some things work out so easily, like the pitman arm. Nut being loose probably helped. Thanks for sharing.
that torque wrench is excellent! i just used it to torque my hubs on my malibu and it friggin ROCKS!!
Chris fix is awesome too. I like your breakdown of all of your work you are doing. I need to do some work on my F450 Dually Longbed.
Another cool video never disappointed. Have a good day and hope you feel better Jimmy from Massachusetts
You're becoming more detailed on the explanations, i love it. A little bit of a long video tho, people tend to either get bored or skip to a shorter vide, but i watched because i liked it, and i wanna get started to work on my car, how do you know all of this tho?
For the 97 Expedition 4WD, there is an added complications to changing all 4 tie rod ends if you don't want to remove the center-link/pitman arm/idler arm combo. The torsion bar runs so close to the inner tie rods that even a low-profile puller doesn't fit. You have to unbolt the torsion bar both from the frame and from the lower A-arms. Those 25-year old long bolts enclosed by a plastic sleeve are rust magnets! Have fun removing them. I thought I had ordered the correct tie rods: MEOE-64(right-outer) and 66(right-inner) but both ends had right-handed threads. One of them should have been left-handed so that rotating the adjustment sleeve either moves them apart or pulls them together. Apparently, I either got two 64's or I got two 66's. Since the part numbers are not stamped on the tie rods, have fun guessing which I had an extra of, because no one states which has the right-handed thread and which has the left-handed thread! I did look at Ford Part's pictures and you can kind of make out what thread each has (assuming they put the correct picture in the correct part description.) It looks like the MEOE-66 has left-handed thread. (So Amazon sent me a 64 in a 66 box!) So on the passenger side, the inner has L-thread and outer has R-thread. Turning the sleeve counter-clockwise should increase toe-in (each sleeve has a R-threaded end and a L-threaded end). In a sane world, turning the driver's side sleeve counter-clockwise should also increase toe-in. However, the MEOE-114 (inner) has R-thread and the MEOE-63 (outer) has L-thread. You have to turn that sleeve clockwise to increase toe-in! Arrrrrrrrgh! Well, this has been an enlightening experience which wouldn't have occurred if I'd been shipped the correct parts. I've ordered a new MEOE-66 and will just have to eat the extra 64 (unless someone needs it. I’ll even put it in the correct box!)
Thanks Randy such a concise Video. Hope you feel better real soon. Enjoying what you do. Little Aussie Follower
Hey Randy!! Thanks to you and Samcrac for all your information, I have bought my first Copart project (2012 Chevy Cruze)... Thanks!!
Great, how much did you pay?
@@carlosjavierjohnsonoliva8533 - paid right at 1500 including fees and broker fee. Just needs a front bumper, right headlight, fender and RF door... very minor damage
I live in the rust belt. Also I snapped the upper ball joint completely off. Now I have bought that smar kit from Detroit diesel. I wish in part 1 you could have shown how to remove the upper control arm....but other than that...awesome video thank you for including the sizes of sockets that helps tremendously
Nice filming bro , only tip i see that helps put nut back on few threads upper ball joint keep knuckle from dropping then push axle I use air hammer with pointed chisel they are usually stuck. But im in my fully equipped shop 😊
Glad you are feeling and sounding so much better!
I just bought that same torque wrench! Works good! Make sure you set it back to the lowest setting and tighten it up after each use. How you feel better! Happy New Year!
good video. always makes you feel good when you fix things yourself.
Amen!
Good work sir. Great post. For us diy people. You can buy, for a reasonable price, upper and lower control arms with ball joints and bushings installed, means compressing the spring but if were not sure about any damage, might be worth the work
One of the best, informative videos you've made.
great stuff man !!!
I'm watching from Italy and I've learned a ton !!
I wish we had something like car auction here as well or it was as easy to get parts .. anyhow keep going and flipping
Nicola
Grab a brass drift for banging on threaded metal. They're usually a round bar of brass, couple of pounds. The brass doesn't damage the steel when you shock it to loosen the ball joint/axle shaft.
You guys had more snow in this episode than we in Iowa have all winter.
Awesome video randy. The trucks looking awesome. I thought ball joints are hard. But thank you for showing me how easy they can be.
Cant wait for part 2.
Good to see you back up and about, love your channel.
I replaced the front axles on my '98 Silverado this past weekend and I agree, an impact makes life much easier.
Hope you feel better Randy. Great video.
I used all three torque wrenchs from harbor freigh to build 4l60e transmisson no problem ,they work great
having done my share of suspension work. I wised up and get the parts for the control arms. IE.. Ball joints and bushings. (Always best to do them all together. And take the arms and bushings and such to your local machine shop and let them press them in and out.. So much better and easier for you and the cost is not that expensive. Makes the job go so much faster.
*Randy, I really think that you have proved that you're successful in the local flipping car business.* So why aren't you moving to a location with space for at least one truck inside? Where you can work on it no matter how cold or how hard it rains. I think that if you got a new decent workplace, with a property where you can park some cars. That you can work way more efficient. With heat, electricity and maybe a lift? I don't know what the costs of renting some place like this are in Oklahoma but just look for it. It's worth it man!
ya but this is more like everybody elses situation, not everyone has a nice shop with lifts, this is more realistic to what most of us have to work with!
@@billnalder1017 I totally understand that. But most of us have a day job and besides that do some wrenching on cars in the weekends and later on the workdays. Randy is running a small flipping car business at home and that's his income. *if you are running any business, even when it is a small one, you can't afford to stay small your whole career. The competition will murder you that way!* No, if you think that you can fix cars on your driveway your whole life than your wrong. Think about the positive side of it. With a decent 2 car garages, he can do more involved repairs, he can buy more cars because he has got more space, he can make videos no matter the weather conditions. That means more content. I started fixing cars on the driveway just as a hobby. 5 years later I saved enough money and built my own 322.ft² garage where I fix up and restore cars as a hobby. I have got a day job too. It's just a hobby, and that way I can do every car repair myself. Doing engine swaps en clutches outside in the rain isn't fun.
i dont think he has the money for that quite yet, getting a shop is a lot of money
@@Speedycat You're exactly right. See: Unwrecked
@@Speedycat he makes a lot from TH-cam tho.
Hi guys chrisfix here..oh man Randy im a big fan of him and you as well..
Awesome video Randy! You got really lucky with that pitman Arm! Get well man! Hope you get to feeling better! Enjoy the snow it's been 60 degrees and raining here on the east coast.
stay warm and feel better buddy !
Finally a very good video with informative rebuilding content!
Great Job 👏👏👏 Can’t wait to see the next installment of Under The Red Truck 👍
Hey Randy!! "LET IT SNOW... LET IT SNOW... LET IT SNOW..."
Damn man, with that much luck on the suspension maybe you should have played the lottery... lol ...! I hope that the replacing it back together part of this repair goes as smooth!! And if you get too cold, you can go back inside and have a little "NIP"🐕...😉...😁!!!
ANYWAY...... PEACE 🤘 AND
..........HAPPY NEW YEAR..........
Feel better man! great video! Take plenty of vitamin c and fluids!
Randy for these jobs u should get those roller chairs mechanics use. Much more comfortable than squatting.
great video randy ur tool collection is growing well
HFT red Hardy mechanics gloves are what I’d be using especially with that weather. Love PB but hate the smell so I’m using that new WD40.
while watching this video my relative who isn't watching but hearing thought i was watching Thread Banger and said you sounded like Rob. now I cannot unhear that..
Well done Randy!
Awesome video. Very informative and helpful. Thank you Randy thumbs up 👍👍👍
loved the video. hope to see how the wheels rotate together after the fix
To drive that CV shaft out you use a big center punch and tap it... it doesn't take much to drive that shaft out the wheel hub. A large flat screwdriver prying on the brake rotor gives you enough play to slip the caliper out...
Randy you for got the Hitch!!!
Congrats on getting that mess tore off with minimal effort in the cold.
My screw has mad negative camber on the driver side from its wreck so possible bend in upper contol arm or lower or maybe a bent knuckle. Either way I gotta do this same thing and glad to see you get that Pittman off with little effort.
Check your steering gear output shaft seal while it's all torn down. It will piss power steering fluid if that seal is brittle.
Ironically also sick and recovering but no time to heal...wrenchin to get done.
Get well soon. I’m poorly feel sick too. But I’m enjoy watch this while I in bed lol 👍🇬🇧👍
Love the headlights
Excellent video and content. I would love to see you in a garage out of the elements. I love videos where I learn things Salute to you brotha get better.
Good video thanks for take the time to share this is really look difficult but it's need to be done
Good progress on this, saving lots of money doin it yourself, Liked!!!!
Been waiting two days!!! 😫😩
Jack Daniels cures all
I like how he said just tap and then BANG ON IT!!!
Nice job! That's the way to save money!
maybe you should consider using some of that garden space you have to upgrade garage or build a shop at back? just a thought good luck with 2019
You said you do not know if the truck has been lifted, the old pitman arm looks like it has an angle to it and the new one looks flat. If the old one is angled is it from the accident or by design? Good luck and stay warm.
Next time on the ball joints use another hammer on the back side of the casting, the bigger the hammer you use on the back side the better. It slightly deforms the casting and pops the ball joint out without breaking the casting. A fellow who worked in a junkyard taught me this.
I hope you get feeling better soon. Are you keeping that truck so you have a four wheel drive to drive in the snow
I love American trucks!
Great video,thanks ,I was in the ice storm as well,I have a 4×4 2001 f 150,I want to restore,thanks ,I hope u are feeling better.....
Great video can't wait for pt2 really good explanation off work oh I purchased the ancel fx4000 you use got to say it's fantastic well worth it thumbs up
Try PB Blaster for loosening stuck parts. It is best of all alternatives - especially WD-40.
My thought as well- Kroil works excellent too, and all are better than WD40. Randy- just trying to save you some pain and suffering in the future!
@30:14 That is beautiful how it's coming down. Bring that to Illinois the snow
good job. that truck will run good when it's done.
i wish this type of weather were in my country
I had the same problem tractor supply has a job smart brand 1-5/16 wrench for 12.99
Very Good video and hope that you feel better soon
You should put some new falken wildpeak at3 on your truck look really nuce.... They are a nice budget tire that looks really 👍
You’re getting there😉
Great job!!!
Glad your doing better buddy!
Randy look like those studs were bent. Might want to rake a closer look at them
What suspension parts did you use ?and what brand do you recommend ?
Damn great video Randy.
Nice I just did a trailblazer with parts from Detroit axle they included a 10% off coupon for my next order great company, and yes Michigan rust didn't go that easy.
I think we should start a go fund me page, and get Randy some work gloves.
I'm thinking of getting an f150 from copart!
Considering that the ball joints weren't as bad as you thought, I'd suspect the wheel bearings are nearly worn out at a minimum. I'd replace them since you already have so much apart. And if you are thinking of keeping this truck as a workhorse, I'd put some really good ones in.
Any recommendations on high quality bearings for these old 4x4s?
Hey what ended up being the fix to this man I have a 2006 Grand Prix the wheels rare sitting exactly like yours
Do you have a link for the axle parts kit you bought? My 01 King Ranch will probably need all that as well
good work randy
Randy make sure you check before you put everything back together start the truck up and see that pitman arm seal doesn't leak after you beat on it with a 3lb sledge
Good job, and get well soon!
Do not cross trend it because you will regret it. Lol loved it.
Get harbor freight impact swivel sockets. Great for brakes.
So lucky with the pitman arm.
I wouldn't mind buying the VW , it would be a nice project for me to work on in the future I don't know if you're still going to have it next month or not , but I do love your videos
I hope that snow is gone I’ll be in Ardmore Oklahoma tonight and Suwanee tomorrow
My dad recently got a impact gun which works amazingly
Love your videos bro
I don't know about you, but I find disposable gloves keeps my hands both warm and clean when working on cars out in the cold, because it doesn't allow the heat to escape so readily.
Hi Randy, great video as always. However you keep calling this a suspension rebuild in the video. You are actually replacing the steering linkage. Maybe you are doing suspension in later parts of the video? Love your videos, keep them coming.
very hard work, wasnt necessary...although was waiting for next video BUT Health come first..nice work.
Good job Randy
I don't know if I would trust the splines on the gear box where the pitman arm came off. Those splines look worn compared to the portion near the top, above where the pitman arm was "attached".
I actually agree with you. I will need to replace the gear box at some point.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds I agree .Gear Box/Pitman Arm was your whole problem, the splines were not engaged letting suspension have that slop. I like the videos ....you are a very good speaker, you may want to watch a few South Main Auto Videos ......he does all sorts of suspension /brake ....basic Repair videos....Good Luck ...and keep up the good work . You inspired me to drive to Glouch. NJ CoPart auction ground . I am still confused on the bidding part ....but moving slow.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds the car gods were on your shoulder for sure brother....lol. I have replaced more f-150 pitman arms than I care to recall and never have I seen one separate from the gear box in the manner yours did. You seem to follow and be a firm believer in my motto I have assumed from years of doing this which is....."prep work makes the job work"!
I feel you do an outstanding job with the format and method in which you present your videos. Not everyone watching your videos have years of experience to fall back on such as some of us do and the step by step explanations you give during your tutorials is very well done. Keep up the quality work you are doing and look forward to this project paying off for you and seeing you move ahead with the harley ford!
By the way, did you mark your gearbox or do something to mark it's orientation to be somewhere in the ballpark of "neutral center"?
Next time you have a stuck pitman arm, put the puller on there and tighten the puller bolt as much as you can. While the arm is under pressure, take a propane torch and start warming up the pitman arm. It will pop off in just a few seconds. No need for chisel and grinder!
Great Video.. yeah you sure got lucky on the pitman assembly wow..
You should get a small tripod for the camera or some sort of holder for your head then you have both hands free.