I messed up my machine.. to show you how to fix it
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มี.ค. 2023
- Several people have requested that I do a video to demonstrate how minor adjustments can make a big difference in the quality of a cut. In this video, I take a machine out of adjustment and correct the issue.
For templates that I have made, check out my Etsy shop. I build files for projects and tools for laser engravers.
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Thanks! Very helpful! Love the Sunday night lives! I learn a lot from you and Steve.
Thanks, glad you like it
Thank you so much for this video. I was trying on tons of things recommended in forums to get my machine cutting right and you solved it with this video. Much appreciated!
Thanks, really glad you got it working. Glad to hear it...
That was my question! Lol. Geat video! It's good to show how little of an adjustment can make a big difference. I finally got my p20 dialed in. Thank you!
I am glad it helps. Sometimes it takes a few sessions to get it just right.
Nice tips, really appreciate the time put into this video 🤗
Thanks…
thank you for your help
Your very welcome
The carriage should move smoothly without binding in any direction and have little to no slop!
Exactly
I bought the Comgrow z1 that you reviewed. seems to work fine, I am a new user. My question is that it has 2 motors on the gantry with out the rod between the drive cog wheels. I can move each end of the gantry slightly before it moves the other end. If it is slightly out of square when you start, it seems like it would not be able to make a square, it would make a slight parallelogram. Do you find this an issue? also when I push the gantry with machine off I feel a "cog effect every couple of inches.
As long as both belts are equally tensioned, it should stay in sync. I haven’t seen an issue with the z1 but it could happen. In theory, the dual steppers should sync automatically based on the position they were at when powered on. I like the dual steppers approach personally, it allows for higher clearance below the gantry.
@@TheClackShack I guess the key is check for square before you turn on the machine and do not move the gantry on the z1 by hand ever. thanks
I am not sure how far is too many ch to adjust. I have adjust both sides to the same as best as possible. My circles are still oval. Do I go tighter?
Don't forget about the gantry. It also may need adjusting, it has the same type of adjustments.
I have a crook d1 pro and I’m new to laser work and I want to calibrate and change my return point after a burn so it doesn’t slam into home so hard. Where do I make those changes
Under the settings, return to.
Setting the "return to" location in lightburn
th-cam.com/video/G9Mh--nr_5E/w-d-xo.html
Thanks pal
What about the squigly lines on the top and bottom of the circle?
Still some fine tuning to do. That is zoomed way in
Well, my B1 36 arrived today and as I was "snake bit" with a previous Algolaser Alpha having issues with bearings, (full disclosure, "I" may have precipitated the failures by over tightening the belts), it still had squiggles in the text even at low - 2000mm/min speeds - and the cause is/was still unknown. Anyway, you mentioned a 45 degree "tilt test" where the X axis should gently slide UP/DOWN the Y axis when tilted, indicating a good belt tension. I am starting out with "minimal" belt tension and will see how it prints/cuts. My machine does a nice glide at only about 30 degrees or so - laser head attached - and IF the machine tracks and there are no squiggles in the text, then great. I figure the tension can always be tweaked up a bit, and if the present belt tension gives good performance it is a win win... A side note. I was VERY pleasantly surprised by the quality of build and fit when assembling the unit. The rails/rollers were smooth as silk and I believe that Algolaser Alpha died on me just so I would/could buy this puppy and really receive a top quality unit.... I took my time getting everything just right and since my vent hood, (the TwoTrees TS2 hood - 800mm x 800mm x 400mm - won't be delivered until tomorrow), there was no sense rushing. I got the idea from "Steve - Builds Everything", to build a laser crosshair that makes aligning the cuts/texts easy peasy.... One addition to the crosshair is to feed the required 5 volts unit through a 500 ohm pot which makes the brightness range from dim-barely visible to full on bright. Full bright is really too bright to use for seeing the crosshair alignment marks on your projects and the ability to dial the laser crosshair brightness to just visible makes for an EASY sighting in to your marks. One last note about belt tension; after belt installation, with the unit upside down and LEVEL, I placed a 1/2" x 1/2" x ~ 30 inches long wood stick arcoss both belts in the middle of travel - equal length past each belt with the X axis at one end. I then measured the stick height at each end of the stick and tweaked the belts until they were both even, measured to the table top. This does not tell you anything about proper tension, BUT, BOTH belts have equal tension. After cut/text testing, If it is indicated that a slightly tighter tension is needed, I'll know for sure that, with equal turns of the tension screws, BOTH belts tension will/should be equal. Thanks for the "comment space" to convey my assembly story and to give some tips of how to configure a laser crosshair using a pot to make it easy to see....
I have never found crosshairs helpful using absolute coordinates and jigs. I know some folks like them but not me. Glad you are getting it going, have fun.
@@TheClackShack It's good you've mastered the AC method and for a properly set up jig, you're good to go. The jigs I have built were more "free flowing" where a center and extreme positive and negative sight crosshair engraved intro the jig with "balanced" marks, (Pos 60mm - 0mm - Neg 60mm). I would center the positive Y etched mark, move down say 120mm to the negative etched mark and when both matched, I would move 60 mm to the center and start the job. I'll probably get on the AC method with "calibrated" jigs the further my lasering travels take me.... The *"Left Center - Current position option is VERY good for on the fly texts when you don't have a jig and THIS is where a crosshair shines*.... 🙂
Well, UPS says my B1 36 will be delivered tomorrow. From the assembly videos I've seen, the belt "idler pulleys" are SMOOTH and not toothed. I will know for sure tomorrow what type idler pulley Longer is NOW using, but, It just seems to me, my engineering self, that for a toothed belt to roll over a smooth idler is not optimal, squishing the teeth vs having them run in the proper slotted teeth. I believe that a toothed idler will give the belts the PROPER seating when they run over them. I think that IF I decide to change out the smooth idlers with toothed ones, it should be done in the very early hours, if not immediately, before running the machine. What is YOUR opinion on smooth vs toothed idler pulleys?? Thank you for your experienced reply.... Hank
The amount of tension used in these machines should cause the belts to deform. You want just enough tension. The stepper gear is slotted