The new polar+ actually has a touch screen control panel integrated into the system so you don’t have to purchase the control panel in the video . Make sure you’re budgeting with my discount code LASERGUYCAM
let me just say THANK YOU for just getting to the point in your videos. I get soooo frustrated when I wan to see something but have to wait for 2-5 (or try to fast forward)of jibber jabber before the person gets to the point. You jump right in! Thank you from a inpatient learner!
I took your advice and installed the controller on my OmTech Polar 350. I also did the ramp test you outlined and it worked perfect. The controller is a great upgrade to the Polar and I'm grateful for your expertise and for your very clear instruction. Like one of the other individuals suggested, I ran my controller cable out the back of the Polar where the Ethernet connector is. I don't plan on ever using the Ethernet connector so that worked our perfect for me. Thank you again for providing this very informative video.
@@EdmondsWoodshop Closed for Chinese New Year is the reason for the delay in the emailI just received from Amazon. Surprised omtech doesn't sell them. Thanks
I stumbled upon your link in the Facebook group hoping to find the English settings. Your video has been incredibly enlightening-one of the most informative I've come across. Having been an FSL user since 2013, I decided to venture into something new, and I'm thrilled I did. While I could practically rebuild a Hobby 5th gen with my eyes closed, the sheer simplicity of this laser is mind-blowing! Thanks
Ran into one issue .. caveat being that your Polar may be different .. I used the Ethernet hole .. which measured .75" wide. The HM1 connector on the control panel lead is .8" wide. No biggie .. a few minutes with a file fixed that. I did use a shop towel under the opening with magnets sitting on the towel to catch filings.
Very interesting and helpful for anyone with a polar. Point of note, the Max Power #2 does not need to be the same as Max Power #1. Max Power #2 is used if you have a second tube in your machine.
Thanks for pointing that out Jim. I’ll be honest. I never knew that lol. I’ve never used a dual laser setup. It’s always been one of those bad habits I’ve always done.
Great idea! However, a word of caution if you go this route: be careful about the metal shavings as you proceed and clean up thoroughly; metal shavings could get into the control board and cause a short.
I did this video without investigating further routing locations. I had to leave for military training the next day. Members of my polar users group found multiple alternative ways to route the wiring much better than drilling a hole on the side. Recommended to join the group and check it out.
@Edmonds Workshop I purchased the controller, but instead of drilling a hole in the side, I just removed the ethernet cable port and ran it through there instead of having to worry about losing any kind of warranty coverage due to "modifications"
You should join my polar users group on Facebook. Other members in our group have already show ways to bypass the drill by going through the Ethernet port or even the bottom of the plate by removing the connector and reattaching it. Link is in the deacription
I sell the controllers with cables individually and ship faster than amazon. If you’d like to purchase one direct for $130 shipped, email me at edmondswoodshop@gmail. com Support me here: www.amazon.com/shop/edmonds_woodshop
Since your glass is already broken, why not replace it with some acrylic and mount the controller in the acrylic. You should be able to route the controller wire along the bottom and then up the front wall to avoid any gantry issues.
That’s a great point. I’ve actually already recorded content and made an svg file to cut colored acrylic before I recorded the controller content, but that is a good point if someone wants to replace their glass and fit a controller
Good question! I’m actually replacing it with colored acrylic for my wife since she’ll be the main user of this laser. I’m recording a video and posting the svg just in case people want to replace the class or cut some vinyl to put over the top.
Hi, took your advice also. Thanks for the clear video with instruction ! One thing I don't understand; The polar comes with this ruler right? with the 50-ish mm gauge for the focal point? Did the ramp test, measured 6mm focal distance?! Why is there this huge gap between 50 and 6 mm ??
hello Watching this video again. if I manually do the focus, I do not have to do a ramp test, right? Because i'm okay with doing the manual Focus. I've been cutting just fine.
Great video! I am a newbie to the laser world and this was very helpful. I installed my controller and it is not powering up. Have you heard of anyone not have the controller turn on when they start the Polar back up? Thank you for your time.
Yes.I manage both the polar users group and OMTech official group on Facebook. I’ve seen controllers die but I’ve also seen where it’s just a loose wire. The plate on the back of the controller has the opposite side of the wire where it plugs in. You can see if it’s fully seated.
Thanks for the video post, it has been very helpful with setting up my omtech polar. I have a question about the controller, how can i get the controller to show the project the correct way. I noticed that the projects are showing up mirrored on the screen. Is there a way to get it to display the correct way ?
If LightBurn is cutting in the correct direction, but the controller display is backwards, that would be a setting on the controller itself. Press the Z/U button to enter the menu, then go to Screen Origin and change the setting there to match where you’ve set the origin in LightBurn. If you’ve just set up the controller (or the machine is new) this is really commonly overlooked - you don’t notice until you cut something asymmetrical.
Here's a funky question for ya. I dislike having the cord on that right side. I plan on mounting on the left top side of the Polar. Do you know if the top of the Ruida panel can be taken off and flipped so the thing can be turned for the cord to hang off the side of the polar. ?
Thanks so much for this! I'm looking to buy a laser soon and am trying to decide between the Omtech Polar and the Gweike Cloud. Thoughts? Does this controller work with the Gweike or just the Omtech?
From what I’ve seen, the gweike cloud has its own controller board that allows lightburn to work on but it’s not a true ruida so it doesn’t have the same plugs. The controller doesn’t work on them. I’ll be selling the controllers directly so if you end up getting the polar and are interest let me know. Also don’t forget to join our Facebook group. Link is in the caption with our discount code
Hello and thanks so much for the great video on attaching the controller to the Polar laser. All went well but now when I use it, there is a flame following the laser head. What am I doing wrong?
Just got my panel today hopefully get it set up shortly. So question when doing the ramp test and then getting that focal point does that number we use instead of 17 mm minus the thickness of material?
Excellent, easy to follow (and I don’t have one!). BUT, i totally didn’t know you could do the depth thing on the caliper - was that in the manual? LOL, mine won’t work because that tip broke off on Christmas Eve, but hey, now i know. Thanks Cam!
Actually, I think it was another member that suggested using the depth gauge on the calipers and I was like….that’s genius. So easy. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I just took a look at your channel and looks like you have the Gweike cloud. People have been asking me if they can get the ruida controller to work on the Gweike. My answer has been "No" because they dont have a true Ruida control board, it may be worth testing. Additionally, I run a polar group on FB and some of my members discovered better approaches to running the control panel cord through their machine. One option was through the ethernet port in the back. The second option was to disconnect the connecter head from the cord and fish the line through the bottom and reattach the wires. In regard to everything else, the biggest push should be on maintenance.
@@EdmondsWoodshop Thanks again, I don't have any desktop at this time. But one of my viewers does. I recommended the Polar Pro with your mod. Seems like the perfect desktop at this time. I actually hope to get my hands on one at some point.
That's the view of the controller I was wondering about. The Gweiki Cloud Pro does not have that controller. Looks like the rest of machine is identical though. Where are the stepper drivers located? The Gweiki has the drivers on the controller. I may have to do a controller swap in the future.
Damn. I was hoping this would apply to the Gweike cloud as well. This opens the door to so much more convenience. All other electronic components are store underneath the covers along the back side
And something else 'this is more a question for all' the material test and a real material test are way apart. Did the test with 3mm basswood. chose a speed and power and expecting the same results but not.
Why not create a magnetic attachable to the side that goes down to the precise height. Then when setting that distance you temp attach the depth gauge it's magnetic attach and lower z until the depth gauge touches. Then remove it
I'm not sure at what point the Z Axis stepper stopped working (grinding noise). I tested x & y movement using the controller before I permanently installed the offline controller. Now the lens frame tries to move up/down but grinding noise like it's missing a signal. Any thoughts?
The rotary switch was not letting the Polar run, figured that out. have watched all of your videos and they are great! I attached the controller and it works correctly but can't get the laser to fire. It says it is a water error. I checked the water container and it is full but I can't get the laser to fire to do the ramp test. Can you give me some guidance on this problem?
Water flow error could mean that the waterflow sensor is not working or the waters have become disconnected. It’s to serve as a warning and safety to stop your laser just in case the pump stops working. Check to see that your water is circulating first. If it is then something is up with the waterflow sensor. Double check the wiring. If all looks good, reach out to OMTech for a replacement
Im new to using a laser. Im trying to decide between the Polar, the 50w or 60w. I need something user friendly but versatile for a new home business. Do you have a suggestion or preference?
The 50w or 60w are going to be more versatile than the polar because of several things: - bigger workspace and depth - already includes a control panel which makes alignment and addressing errors easier - has more versatile mirror adjustments The cons is that you need to buy an upgraded inline fan because the stock fans are not very effective at all The perks of the polar is that it’s basically plug and play. Already includes an inline fan and you just need to learn how to use the software. But the polar does have some cons itself. The bed is not magnetic which makes holding down bowed material hard. It does not include a control panel which makes moving the laser head and identifying issues a pain. It has a smaller workspace. I own an AF2028-80 and I use it 90% of the time due to the versatility . Hope that helps. Whatever you choose don’t forget the discount code: LASERGUYS5OFF
Hello Cam. Great video for this controller. I purchased the Gweike Cloud Pro and would like upgrade my machine. I read the comments below and saw that this is not available for the Gweike Cloud. The one I purchased is the new upgraded version with a lot of changes. This one has the Ruida 644XG board. I have been searching to see if this one is compatible with this controller. Could you point me in the right direction for this information. Enjoy your video content. Thank you. David
I’ve spoken with a few Gweike engineers and I’ve been told a couple different things. One person told me it was the RDC6442 then another personal told me it’s their own proprietary board that emulates the ruida control board. If the latter is true, then I’m afraid it won’t work. You can email me a picture of your control board and I can at least verify if the plugs are the same.
@@EdmondsWoodshop What was the verdict? Just received a cloud pro and have failed to see this video until now. My board looks like it may be custom and one gweike engineer said they make the boards in house...but I mean, there has to be a way to make it work...Lightburn recognizes the board as an RDC644XG, i found a manual online that displays a controller, but am unable to source one. Any point in the right direction is appreciated... Returning the gweike to trade in for omtech is an option, but will cost me $2,000 CAD at the end of day for restock and shipping, etc...
are there any new news regarding the controller for the Gweike? This would be an awesome upgrade. Normally they should have that already built in their machines.
The new polar+ is nearly twice the price of the Polar (at least in Canada). $2700 CAD for the Polar vs. $6100 for the Polar+. Is it worth the difference or is that just silly?
Holy cow! That’s crazy! Don’t go with the old polar, but don’t go with the new polar+ either. The old polar is cumbersome with trying to focus and you’ll drive yourself crazy without the controller. We actually partner with another company called OneLaser. They are a new US based laser company that make desktop and cabinet size lasers. They have desktop models called the XT (glass tube) and the XRF (metal tube). Their website is 1Laser.com/laserguys . Although U.S. based, they will take Canadian orders via phone. Their desktop is 12 x 24, they have a control panel, the electronics are self contained (meaning they don’t get dirty), the lens assembly is so much easier to clean, and you can fit a full size rotary with the base. For much less the price of the polar+ you could get the XRF (RF metal tube) which has a longer life, performs better, and is air cooled. Check out my latest video on the XT model or check out beardedbuildsco for the XRF model
can you install the control panel without cutting the side of the machine? I'm interested in getting a polar but with the cost it concerns me about cutting into the metal. Thanks
I have dug deeper into routing the wire. You may be able to from the back. Another thought was finding a flat ribbon wire instead of a round cable so you could close the cover over it. Still looking.
Just the panel. Think of the control board as the brain. This is already apart of the polar. The control panel is just the wired remote. I have a link in the description or I sell them directly. Reach out to edmondswoodshop@gmail.com. Also, join the Polar Users group on facebook. I manage that.
It has the same HM1 port but I cant confirm functionality since I dont own one personally. The electronic interface is exactly the same though. I wouldnt imagine theres an advantage over the other unless you like the physical button setup
You may have accidentally selected your wrong origin when setting up your controller. Origin is different from job origin. Origin is where you laser head moves to when you first turn it on. Most are in the upper right hand corner. To fix this go to EDIT>device settings. There will be the word ORIGIN with four dots underneath it. Each dot represents the corner of your bed. You want the upper right hand corner. Pick that and then select okay and hit reset your controller
I got it! You also need to change the origin in the menu on the Ruida controller display to reflect the upper right corner. This was in the screen origin and Origin set menu. For the upper right corner in the Origin set, it has to be set to # 3 and highlighted.
Drilling in the the sidewall is a cosmetic change, but I don’t have the final say with the company. If you’re worried about warranty than you can go through the back by unscrewing the Ethernet connection or you can cut the panel wire and feed it through the bottom and resplice it together.
I don’t disagree. For just about the same money you can buy OMTech’s larger lasers that include the controller and a bigger work bed. The controller must cost them less than $50 a unit.
@@EdmondsWoodshop ha; sounds like something I would do. Just did a bunch of calibration testing with my new unit; digging down I found my x-axis and y-axis speed settings where swapped. Called Omtech and they were stumped also and basically said "ummmm, that is not right." They found there lab machine at same "funny" settings. Might be worth looking at; a. head over to machine settings in light burn and into scary vendor settings b. look at your x-axis vs y-axis; mine was stock set to max speed: y-axis = 500mm/s and x-axis=200mm/s. Running that y-axis at 500mm/s is insane and can cause a skip and/or crash (do not recommend testing max speed on Y-axis, don't ask how I know). Swapped x and y speed settings and those around and accel settings. Just take a backup first. Machine performs much better now and makes alot more sense. No way that heavy gantry can move at 500mm/s and the tiny little x-axis can only do 200mm/s.
I can't believe Omtech is selling a laser with those specs and no Ruida controller and no chiller for $3k. Do your research people.... do your research!!
Sounds like someone else needs to do their research. It has a ruida controller. Just not the panel. And it DOES have a built in chiller. If this blows your mind, wait until you look at the glowforge. 🤯🤯
Thanks for your explanation by experience. I'm thinking of purchasing the Polar. I just haven't decided yet. Great info. Cheers.
The new polar+ actually has a touch screen control panel integrated into the system so you don’t have to purchase the control panel in the video .
Make sure you’re budgeting with my discount code LASERGUYCAM
@@EdmondsWoodshop I would highly recommend the Polar +
I have it. I need to do another video on the updated model
let me just say THANK YOU for just getting to the point in your videos. I get soooo frustrated when I wan to see something but have to wait for 2-5 (or try to fast forward)of jibber jabber before the person gets to the point. You jump right in! Thank you from a inpatient learner!
Mannnnn…. I hate that so much too. I like the informative videos, but I also hate the excessive talking. Just show me how to do it lol!
I took your advice and installed the controller on my OmTech Polar 350. I also did the ramp test you outlined and it worked perfect. The controller is a great upgrade to the Polar and I'm grateful for your expertise and for your very clear instruction. Like one of the other individuals suggested, I ran my controller cable out the back of the Polar where the Ethernet connector is. I don't plan on ever using the Ethernet connector so that worked our perfect for me. Thank you again for providing this very informative video.
Just ordered the polar last night and then found your video today. I wish it had been the other way.
Thanks for this video been fighting the red light and freeze ups. Ordering one now and will send my viewers to this video.
Glad I could help
@@EdmondsWoodshop Looks like they ship from China. March delivery date on the one I ordered through your link.
They come from cloudray so you can try to see if the direct website has it sooner. I think it’s about the same time frame though.
@@EdmondsWoodshop Closed for Chinese New Year is the reason for the delay in the emailI just received from Amazon. Surprised omtech doesn't sell them. Thanks
I stumbled upon your link in the Facebook group hoping to find the English settings. Your video has been incredibly enlightening-one of the most informative I've come across. Having been an FSL user since 2013, I decided to venture into something new, and I'm thrilled I did. While I could practically rebuild a Hobby 5th gen with my eyes closed, the sheer simplicity of this laser is mind-blowing! Thanks
Ran into one issue .. caveat being that your Polar may be different .. I used the Ethernet hole .. which measured .75" wide. The HM1 connector on the control panel lead is .8" wide. No biggie .. a few minutes with a file fixed that. I did use a shop towel under the opening with magnets sitting on the towel to catch filings.
Very interesting and helpful for anyone with a polar. Point of note, the Max Power #2 does not need to be the same as Max Power #1. Max Power #2 is used if you have a second tube in your machine.
Thanks for pointing that out Jim. I’ll be honest. I never knew that lol. I’ve never used a dual laser setup. It’s always been one of those bad habits I’ve always done.
Awesome. Thanks for the info on here and the wealth of information on the Facebook groups! I just ordered one and I'm pumped!
I can’t wait to try this out! Super excited!
Great idea! However, a word of caution if you go this route: be careful about the metal shavings as you proceed and clean up thoroughly; metal shavings could get into the control board and cause a short.
I did this video without investigating further routing locations. I had to leave for military training the next day. Members of my polar users group found multiple alternative ways to route the wiring much better than drilling a hole on the side. Recommended to join the group and check it out.
An amazing reference video for lasers in general! Thanks for the info! ❤
Thank you for the feedback!
@Edmonds Workshop I purchased the controller, but instead of drilling a hole in the side, I just removed the ethernet cable port and ran it through there instead of having to worry about losing any kind of warranty coverage due to "modifications"
You should join my polar users group on Facebook. Other members in our group have already show ways to bypass the drill by going through the Ethernet port or even the bottom of the plate by removing the connector and reattaching it. Link is in the deacription
Reminds me of my MPG Pendent for my CNC (but with its own mini display and more interfacing)
I sell the controllers with cables individually and ship faster than amazon. If you’d like to purchase one direct for $130 shipped, email me at edmondswoodshop@gmail. com
Support me here: www.amazon.com/shop/edmonds_woodshop
No more guessing anything 😍
Seriously I love this!
Killer job man. Btw that MDF piece looks just like the back layer for the Fl Gators logo.
That’s exactly what it is! Good eye!
Brilliant video! Will be adding it to my my "desktop laser" review coming soon. Will of course add a link
Awesome, thank you!
Since your glass is already broken, why not replace it with some acrylic and mount the controller in the acrylic. You should be able to route the controller wire along the bottom and then up the front wall to avoid any gantry issues.
That’s a great point. I’ve actually already recorded content and made an svg file to cut colored acrylic before I recorded the controller content, but that is a good point if someone wants to replace their glass and fit a controller
Great Video. What are the odds you are going to be able to get that glass replaced?
Good question! I’m actually replacing it with colored acrylic for my wife since she’ll be the main user of this laser. I’m recording a video and posting the svg just in case people want to replace the class or cut some vinyl to put over the top.
Hi, took your advice also. Thanks for the clear video with instruction ! One thing I don't understand; The polar comes with this ruler right? with the 50-ish mm gauge for the focal point? Did the ramp test, measured 6mm focal distance?! Why is there this huge gap between 50 and 6 mm ??
Man, thank you so much!!
You're welcome!
hello Watching this video again. if I manually do the focus, I do not have to do a ramp test, right? Because i'm okay with doing the manual Focus. I've been cutting just fine.
Ramp test is only needed if you don’t know your focus distance. If you already know it then you don’t need to do it again
Great video! I am a newbie to the laser world and this was very helpful. I installed my controller and it is not powering up. Have you heard of anyone not have the controller turn on when they start the Polar back up? Thank you for your time.
Yes.I manage both the polar users group and OMTech official group on Facebook. I’ve seen controllers die but I’ve also seen where it’s just a loose wire. The plate on the back of the controller has the opposite side of the wire where it plugs in. You can see if it’s fully seated.
Thanks for the video post, it has been very helpful with setting up my omtech polar. I have a question about the controller, how can i get the controller to show the project the correct way. I noticed that the projects are showing up mirrored on the screen. Is there a way to get it to display the correct way ?
If LightBurn is cutting in the correct direction, but the controller display is backwards, that would be a setting on the controller itself. Press the Z/U button to enter the menu, then go to Screen Origin and change the setting there to match where you’ve set the origin in LightBurn.
If you’ve just set up the controller (or the machine is new) this is really commonly overlooked - you don’t notice until you cut something asymmetrical.
@@EdmondsWoodshop thank you 🙏🏽
excellent!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Here's a funky question for ya. I dislike having the cord on that right side. I plan on mounting on the left top side of the Polar. Do you know if the top of the Ruida panel can be taken off and flipped so the thing can be turned for the cord to hang off the side of the polar. ?
Does the Amazon controller comes with the cable?
Yes comes with a wire
Velcro for back of control box.
Thanks so much for this! I'm looking to buy a laser soon and am trying to decide between the Omtech Polar and the Gweike Cloud. Thoughts? Does this controller work with the Gweike or just the Omtech?
From what I’ve seen, the gweike cloud has its own controller board that allows lightburn to work on but it’s not a true ruida so it doesn’t have the same plugs. The controller doesn’t work on them. I’ll be selling the controllers directly so if you end up getting the polar and are interest let me know.
Also don’t forget to join our Facebook group. Link is in the caption with our discount code
Don't get te GWeike. Well, the Omtech is made by GWeike, but Omtech makes improvements that actually "improve". I have the Gweike.
Hello and thanks so much for the great video on attaching the controller to the Polar laser. All went well but now when I use it, there is a flame following the laser head. What am I doing wrong?
That has nothing to do with the controller. You need to turn on the air assist in lightburn
Just got my panel today hopefully get it set up shortly. So question when doing the ramp test and then getting that focal point does that number we use instead of 17 mm minus the thickness of material?
good job keep it up.
Excellent, easy to follow (and I don’t have one!). BUT, i totally didn’t know you could do the depth thing on the caliper - was that in the manual? LOL, mine won’t work because that tip broke off on Christmas Eve, but hey, now i know. Thanks Cam!
Actually, I think it was another member that suggested using the depth gauge on the calipers and I was like….that’s genius. So easy. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Anything you would add since making this video? Are things running smoothly? Thanks
I just took a look at your channel and looks like you have the Gweike cloud. People have been asking me if they can get the ruida controller to work on the Gweike. My answer has been "No" because they dont have a true Ruida control board, it may be worth testing.
Additionally, I run a polar group on FB and some of my members discovered better approaches to running the control panel cord through their machine. One option was through the ethernet port in the back. The second option was to disconnect the connecter head from the cord and fish the line through the bottom and reattach the wires.
In regard to everything else, the biggest push should be on maintenance.
@@EdmondsWoodshop Thanks again, I don't have any desktop at this time. But one of my viewers does. I recommended the Polar Pro with your mod. Seems like the perfect desktop at this time. I actually hope to get my hands on one at some point.
Yo brother, would be dope if you make a cleaning video 😬
Actually this is next on my list. I’m away for military training for two weeks and then I’ll get right to it.
@@EdmondsWoodshop gracias
That's the view of the controller I was wondering about. The Gweiki Cloud Pro does not have that controller. Looks like the rest of machine is identical though. Where are the stepper drivers located? The Gweiki has the drivers on the controller. I may have to do a controller swap in the future.
Damn. I was hoping this would apply to the Gweike cloud as well. This opens the door to so much more convenience. All other electronic components are store underneath the covers along the back side
And something else 'this is more a question for all' the material test and a real material test are way apart. Did the test with 3mm basswood. chose a speed and power and expecting the same results but not.
Why not create a magnetic attachable to the side that goes down to the precise height.
Then when setting that distance you temp attach the depth gauge it's magnetic attach and lower z until the depth gauge touches. Then remove it
I'm not sure at what point the Z Axis stepper stopped working (grinding noise). I tested x & y movement using the controller before I permanently installed the offline controller. Now the lens frame tries to move up/down but grinding noise like it's missing a signal. Any thoughts?
The rotary switch was not letting the Polar run, figured that out. have watched all of your videos and they are great! I attached the controller and it works correctly but can't get the laser to fire. It says it is a water error. I checked the water container and it is full but I can't get the laser to fire to do the ramp test. Can you give me some guidance on this problem?
Water flow error could mean that the waterflow sensor is not working or the waters have become disconnected. It’s to serve as a warning and safety to stop your laser just in case the pump stops working.
Check to see that your water is circulating first. If it is then something is up with the waterflow sensor. Double check the wiring. If all looks good, reach out to OMTech for a replacement
Im new to using a laser. Im trying to decide between the Polar, the 50w or 60w. I need something user friendly but versatile for a new home business. Do you have a suggestion or preference?
The 50w or 60w are going to be more versatile than the polar because of several things:
- bigger workspace and depth
- already includes a control panel which makes alignment and addressing errors easier
- has more versatile mirror adjustments
The cons is that you need to buy an upgraded inline fan because the stock fans are not very effective at all
The perks of the polar is that it’s basically plug and play. Already includes an inline fan and you just need to learn how to use the software. But the polar does have some cons itself. The bed is not magnetic which makes holding down bowed material hard. It does not include a control panel which makes moving the laser head and identifying issues a pain. It has a smaller workspace.
I own an AF2028-80 and I use it 90% of the time due to the versatility .
Hope that helps.
Whatever you choose don’t forget the discount code: LASERGUYS5OFF
@@EdmondsWoodshop Thank you! I ended up ordering the 60w and used your code. :)
Hello Cam. Great video for this controller. I purchased the Gweike Cloud Pro and would like upgrade my machine. I read the comments below and saw that this is not available for the Gweike Cloud. The one I purchased is the new upgraded version with a lot of changes. This one has the Ruida 644XG board. I have been searching to see if this one is compatible with this controller. Could you point me in the right direction for this information. Enjoy your video content. Thank you. David
I’ve spoken with a few Gweike engineers and I’ve been told a couple different things. One person told me it was the RDC6442 then another personal told me it’s their own proprietary board that emulates the ruida control board. If the latter is true, then I’m afraid it won’t work.
You can email me a picture of your control board and I can at least verify if the plugs are the same.
@@EdmondsWoodshop I have the photo. I am unable to find your e-mail.
@@EdmondsWoodshop Found the email
@@EdmondsWoodshop What was the verdict? Just received a cloud pro and have failed to see this video until now. My board looks like it may be custom and one gweike engineer said they make the boards in house...but I mean, there has to be a way to make it work...Lightburn recognizes the board as an RDC644XG, i found a manual online that displays a controller, but am unable to source one. Any point in the right direction is appreciated...
Returning the gweike to trade in for omtech is an option, but will cost me $2,000 CAD at the end of day for restock and shipping, etc...
are there any new news regarding the controller for the Gweike? This would be an awesome upgrade. Normally they should have that already built in their machines.
The new polar+ is nearly twice the price of the Polar (at least in Canada). $2700 CAD for the Polar vs. $6100 for the Polar+. Is it worth the difference or is that just silly?
Holy cow! That’s crazy! Don’t go with the old polar, but don’t go with the new polar+ either. The old polar is cumbersome with trying to focus and you’ll drive yourself crazy without the controller.
We actually partner with another company called OneLaser. They are a new US based laser company that make desktop and cabinet size lasers. They have desktop models called the XT (glass tube) and the XRF (metal tube). Their website is 1Laser.com/laserguys . Although U.S. based, they will take Canadian orders via phone.
Their desktop is 12 x 24, they have a control panel, the electronics are self contained (meaning they don’t get dirty), the lens assembly is so much easier to clean, and you can fit a full size rotary with the base.
For much less the price of the polar+ you could get the XRF (RF metal tube) which has a longer life, performs better, and is air cooled.
Check out my latest video on the XT model or check out beardedbuildsco for the XRF model
Can this all be achieved from within Lightburn? I'm a newbie and looking at an omtech but they took the coveted Ruida out and put some Ryxon in.
The polar has the Ruida 6442 controller in it so it’s compatible with the control panel shown in this video
can you install the control panel without cutting the side of the machine? I'm interested in getting a polar but with the cost it concerns me about cutting into the metal. Thanks
I have dug deeper into routing the wire. You may be able to from the back. Another thought was finding a flat ribbon wire instead of a round cable so you could close the cover over it. Still looking.
What's the model on this controller, there are so many
Ruida 6442
Do i have to buy both the panel and the controller or can i just buy the panel and hook it directly to the board inside my polar?
Just the panel. Think of the control board as the brain. This is already apart of the polar. The control panel is just the wired remote. I have a link in the description or I sell them directly. Reach out to edmondswoodshop@gmail.com. Also, join the Polar Users group on facebook. I manage that.
I can't seem to press pulse AND right at the same time? It pulses but won't do a connected straight line like you have for your ramp test?
What’s your power set at on the controller? The power needs to be high enough to register a mark.
@@EdmondsWoodshop 50% for min and max
Where do I buy this controller for my polar? , I'm a newbie, thanks in advance.
Check description. Link is there
Does lightburn still work with the new control box?
Yes
Does the 6445G/S Panel work also? If so, any reason to get one over the other?
It has the same HM1 port but I cant confirm functionality since I dont own one personally. The electronic interface is exactly the same though. I wouldnt imagine theres an advantage over the other unless you like the physical button setup
I know this was made over a yr ago but I want to ask why do my light burn images show up backwards on the display?
You may have accidentally selected your wrong origin when setting up your controller. Origin is different from job origin. Origin is where you laser head moves to when you first turn it on. Most are in the upper right hand corner. To fix this go to EDIT>device settings. There will be the word ORIGIN with four dots underneath it. Each dot represents the corner of your bed. You want the upper right hand corner. Pick that and then select okay and hit reset your controller
@@EdmondsWoodshop so then after that do I need to set the Ruida control panel to something in the origin menu?
No
I got it! You also need to change the origin in the menu on the Ruida controller display to reflect the upper right corner. This was in the screen origin and Origin set menu. For the upper right corner in the Origin set, it has to be set to # 3 and highlighted.
Does this modification void warranty?
Drilling in the the sidewall is a cosmetic change, but I don’t have the final say with the company. If you’re worried about warranty than you can go through the back by unscrewing the Ethernet connection or you can cut the panel wire and feed it through the bottom and resplice it together.
I just confirmed with Omtech Support that cutting a hole in your laser will void the warranty.
For the money that you spent on that it should have come equipped with one.
I don’t disagree. For just about the same money you can buy OMTech’s larger lasers that include the controller and a bigger work bed. The controller must cost them less than $50 a unit.
I'm in the UK by the way
If it’s not on Amazon I would try cloudray. You need the RDC6442 control panel
FYI - Cutting a hole into your laser will void the warranty. Confirmed by Omtech Support.
In the description I have other methods of routing.
Taylor Susan Miller Ruth Clark Brenda
You should really do these instructional videos with the machine asit comes from the factory...without the handheld controller.
I do.
ha; glass on my right side shattered in shipping...
About the dumbest design decision ever; lets put useless glass panel on unit.
Mine busted because I’m an idiot and dropped it, but finally got it replaced
@@EdmondsWoodshop ha; sounds like something I would do.
Just did a bunch of calibration testing with my new unit; digging down I found my x-axis and y-axis speed settings where swapped. Called Omtech and they were stumped also and basically said "ummmm, that is not right." They found there lab machine at same "funny" settings.
Might be worth looking at;
a. head over to machine settings in light burn and into scary vendor settings
b. look at your x-axis vs y-axis; mine was stock set to max speed: y-axis = 500mm/s and x-axis=200mm/s.
Running that y-axis at 500mm/s is insane and can cause a skip and/or crash (do not recommend testing max speed on Y-axis, don't ask how I know). Swapped x and y speed settings and those around and accel settings. Just take a backup first.
Machine performs much better now and makes alot more sense. No way that heavy gantry can move at 500mm/s and the tiny little x-axis can only do 200mm/s.
I can't believe Omtech is selling a laser with those specs and no Ruida controller and no chiller for $3k.
Do your research people.... do your research!!
Sounds like someone else needs to do their research. It has a ruida controller. Just not the panel. And it DOES have a built in chiller. If this blows your mind, wait until you look at the glowforge. 🤯🤯