I can tell from how smart you work that you are a credible , experienced workman...gives me confidence in you and your advice, Thank you very much for sharing your experience & knowledge
Another great test. I for sure do not understand all what was said but hopefully most of your subscribers can. I'm an old gal. But I do try to learn more about solar. Thanks
Great video! If you bought a 12v fridge, it would run longer without having to convert the DC power from the battery to AC through the inverter. There are some decent 12v fridges out there.
Thanks !! I think thats a good point . I bought the one for my camper build from an RV surplus store brand new and love it . honestly if I had a good spot for full sun all day on the panels it would probably be no problem for the ac fridge too
Ryan you do things right and it’s nice to see. Getting me thinking about changing my plan for my future river property and going new construction. Thank you!
wife and i are going off grid on a 2 acre piece of land we bought in Nevada next April.. bought 1000w of solar and have 4-100 amp lipo batteries.. taking these 7 months to learn everything i need to live off grid.. bought 2 mini splits for A/C and diesel heaters for heat at night.. the mini splits can also be used for heat.. but eat allot of battery power.. still figuring the water situation.. but plan on using 2-275 gallon IBC totes.. fortunately Nevada gets tons of sun.. so wont have solar issues there.. all our solar is from Renergy too.. nice vid!
Always a treat to see your processes carried out. This gives me more hope that I can make an off grid work if and when I get my riverfront property. Good ol Charlie!!
I cant tell you BlackSpruce… i have so much awe and respect for your skill set, and the security your are able to provide a family. I feel it is hands down, the most important and valuable possession to be had. You and those around you are so fortunate. Thank you for sharing this beauty and strength. 🙏🏻🍻
If you double the solar and the battery it would be enough to run smoothly. If you need another Chg Controller you could always add one & run them together. Also, always hook the battery up first so the charge controller knows what to charge, otherwise it could damage it. Nice, neat system, solid.
when you hook up the inverter your supposted to do it through a resistor to limit inrush current to the inverters capacitors. probably not that important if you only do it occasionally. you could have used your long socket extension as an improvised resistor since its ~10x less conductive than copper wire, would have limited the inrush current somewhat and it was in your other hand when connecting the battery to the inverter lol. very nice setup.
Thank god! A complete kit. I have a very small insulated area in my garage that is for emergency purposes. The sq. Ft. Is 8×8×8. What kit would be appropriate to run a space heater(on electric power that heats the small enclosed area)?
I honestly don't know . I'm not a solar expert by any means . I do know there would be a lot of factors . how well is it insulated , how cold are the winters where you live , basically how often or consistently will it run ? space heaters normally use 750-1500 which is quite a lot to have running all day
More than one way to have electricity without being “on the grid”…..I’ll have to look further into this. Thanks for sharing this information with us, Ryan!
yeah it works great !! I've got a couple projects in the works , might be a little while I just tore a calf much so I'll be moving slow for a bit I'm guessing .
Adding a secon set of panels in a differnt spot and second batterywould give more capacity on low solar days. Good review of a simple to install system.
I thought of that too . I think just another set of panels on the other side of the cabin and a second charge controller hooked to the same battery would be enough for me , or just opening up the area a bit for more sunshine would be enough or maybe an elevated stand . the kit is enough it's just the lack or sunny hours . even then its plenty for what I really want
Nice video Ryan. At my cabin I have a small chest fridge which I run from my solar power. What I now tend to do is put the fridge on a simple mechanical timer, and at night when it's generally cooler ( at least here in NZ that is how it is) the fridge goes off for most of the night, just coming on occasionally for a while during the night. Then when the sun comes up and until sundown the fridge runs all the time. I can get away with it running all the time if the days are sunny, but if cloudy or raining for a couple of days the fridge runs my batteries down if it's on all night. Works this way for me anyway.
50watts that system should run a Mini fridge for 160 hours...But the real issues is his solar is no in the sun most the time. As you need to charge the battery back up to 100%.. So either increase the amount of solar or install them where you get the benefit of of the Sun all day long. I run one on 100ah and 220 watt panel. It will run the fridge for 3 days..
Thank you. A very informative and enjoyable video. I have a 130 watt, 12V solar set up for LED lighting only. I can see that the inverter etc is a useful upgrade.
Nice setup. I almost went that route for my off grid family campground. But I bit the bullet and bought an all in one Anker power station. It’s portable. Powerful with outlets everything from usb-c to 240 split phase in case that welding ambition ever takes off, lol. I too am in deep woods and very solar challenged so I have to recharge with an ultra quiet inverter generator. It will fully charge the PS battery in 3 hours and at my usual consumption rate, I can go almost 24 hours on battery alone.
I did the same with 2 Bluetti Power stations. No way would I leave my set-up in a cabin. I just disconnect my panels and strap them to the roof rack of my truck. Load up the power stations and my tools, I'm on my way back to civilization.
For the price it should install itself! Wish I could get onto but I am 70 and due to serious health problems diagnosed in December I had to given up my job 😢in late March so now I only have SS. Praying and believing for miraculous complete healing, and miraculous affordable solar system.
Overall a nice clean install. But, (if you did this off-camera, I apologize) I would make a fail-proof as possible way to latch the solar prop rods in place when they are tilted away from the wall and another for when they are hanging vertically. If the weather got really strong and it managed to pop those panels up a couple inches, those panels banging down on the side of the cabin would be of great concern to me.
Thanks !! thats probably a good idea . the cabin is so surrounded by woods I don't think that should be very like but it never hurts to take an extra step , so I might. just do that
Great job.. Only thing I would change is add #8 solid wire to the ground rod. Then run it around the cabin back to the ground rod. "Without any breaks in it" As it's a myth a ground rod alone works unless you do. Why the NEC code book says you have to do the same thing around the Pool or Sauna. This gives the short to ground a large surface area to bond to. As short to grounds seek the path back to the Source..
Nice little system. Starting small to get some experience and then expanding as-needed is the way to go. You'll want to add a lot more solar for sure. You don't have to worry about hot spots developing on panels that small, but shade always does a number on production so reducing shading (when possible) is a pretty big deal. One of the things you need to do is to determine how much actual energy you are actually getting daily from those solar panels (in watt-hours). With decent sun this will typically be the solar panel wattage x 4 or x 5, but when you have shading or the panel is pointing in a non-optimal direction, this can be x 2 or x 3. So, for example, 400W x 3 = 1200 Wh. If the inverter is left on 24x7 it has an idle draw of probably around 10-15W. 15W x 24h = 360 Wh, so the inverter overhead is likely eating a large chunk of the generation you get from the panels. Adding more panels to the system solves most problems like that. Your overheads remain fairly static while adding panels gives you more and more energy. A small fridge averages (taking the cycling into account) 12W to 30W. A full sized residential fridge averages around 60W. 30W x 24h = 720 Wh. So the fridge plus the idle overhead of the inverter is already going to eat 1100 Wh or more. You DEFINITELY need more solar panels... at least double what you have there, to achieve a good comfort level. The more the merrier as they say. Note that adding battery capacity does not increase your energy production, so no matter how much battery capacity you have if the solar panels can't keep up they will eventually become empty. Focus on adding more panels first, for sure. Having more panels solve a lot of problems. -Matt
Nice kit. It looks like a clean install. That should give you all the power that you will need at the cabin with out using a generator. Todd from da U.P.
Oh man the gnats have been horrible this year . This has been one of the best summers I can remember not too hot nice mix of rain just a perfect year and those stupid gnats have made it almost unbearable
Great. Question: why not just install them vertical on the building instead of on the slanted structure? Asking cuz that’s what i want to do on my house.
Best production comes with the angle, you want them as perpendicular to the sun's rays at midday as possible. The fact that he was getting similar voltage in both positions is only because it was a cloudy day and the light was diffused.
@blackspruce, Ryan, Nice install! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼Just for clarification, AC grid power is not clean power, it is dirty power. AC power has spikes (as evident by its name alternating current) quite often, hence why all electronics today highly recommend using surge protectors to protect sensitive electronics from those spikes and surges and abate damage. I have set-up many systems using inverters and I recommend people to buy modified sine-wave inverters and use surge protectors, just the same as they do with grid power. Modified inverters are much cheaper initially and cheaper to replace when they go bad, which they do. I have seen too many pure sine-wave inverters go bad internally and the pure sine (surge protector) part fail and not protect electronics.
Really nice setup looks like a pretty good upgrade from previous plus your videos are always informative on what your doing thanks Ryan and keep posting brother enjoy them all
Very well done procedural video! Nice to see how you upgraded your power system. Was the fridge pretty empty when you were testing it? If you keep it fairly full, it probably won't cycle as much, but like another commenter mentioned, maybe a 12 volt fridge would be better. And maybe add some sort of insulation layer around the fridge.
Thanks !! yes it was empty , I was thinking that might make a difference too , especially if I froze some stuff in the freezer, portion . I really like the dc fridge I put in my camper build , and think it would do a lot better too
Great looking kit and job. Finally good components that are as close to plug and play as one needs. My friends on 'SIMPLE LIVING ALASKA" channel have done a large setup for their shop. Might want to check out that vid sometime. It's come a long way in a few years. Is there ability to control the unit with a phone APP? Some have that as you can monitor temps and need to remotely turn on system to provide power for heat, etc. Now, I would look at a different frig setup. Maybe a more efficient unit. Also get a power system, Anker, other brands, to plug into the solar unit and then plug the frig into it. A lot more storage capacity along with an extra battery. Put the frig system on a timer. Make sure to check the ground connections after say a month of use. They will loosen up with heat of use and cold of location. The solar panels need rack mounted toward the winter sun with clear skies. All good. Some tweaking but you did a great job. Killer discount on those units. From what I have seen that's a really good brand. All good from east Kentucky USA. Next time
Thanks !! I think it has some app compatibility stuff but I would guess I would have to have Internet at the cabin for it to work . I probably wouldn't use it anyways lol I like it simple . I could see using a DC fridge like I put in my DIY camper build I really like that fridge . I already have a really awesome power station the vtoman 1500x I did a review on it. Yeah man it's quite a big discount and so far I'm really happy with the kit . sounds great see ya next time !!
I’m about to wire my cabin but I was thinking of putting a camper fridge with the optional propane since I’ll have a propane stove and probably 50lb tank
Hi Ryan, great video, and hello from Nova Scotia. When you do your planned “update” video, could you explain a little more about what the “combiner box” does? I have a very similar system at my off grid cabin (390w panels, Renogy MPPT charge controller, single LiPo battery and inverter), but no combiner box. I run lights, power for propane water heater, and pump off of the 12v dc (I have a propane mini fridge). Breaker/fuses at certain points in the system. Not clear on what the combiner box is doing. You referred to the buss bar so maybe it’s a point for connecting more circuits/devices - like a fuse or breaker panel. Anyway, I’m interested to learn more about it- thanks. Oh yeah - as to the fridge cycling, once you have a bunch of food and drink in there that has fully chilled, it is likely that the fridge will maintain the lower temperature more constantly and require less cycling and power consumption.
Hi , that really is about all the combiner box is . basically a junction box with buss bars so you can connect all your DC circuits there instead of having a bunch of stuff connected to the battery terminals. I wondered if the fridge would cycle less with cold food in it . that does make sense Thanks !!
here is a tip :> get a cheap (10~15$ ) smart plug that is compatible with tuya and get a light sensor again compatible with tuya and put the sensor next to the panels and plug the fridge into the smart plug , now u need to program the plug to turn off on its own when the sun is low and thats it ^^ u can leave it on forever and it will power on when it can ^^
Have a similar system, but a RICH controller which is basically a clone. Some suggestions: 1. I have an outside receptacle for my Honda generator wired to an EZ TRANSFER ($99) switch in the cabin in case I need to top off. When the Generator is on it powers my AC directly AND automatically powers a permanently mounted Bluetooth Victron charger. 2. I wouldn't use the LOAD function if I were you. I did some experiments and it has a phantom draw when the internal switch is closed EVEN WHEN YOUR LOAD IS NOT ON! 3. I run a mini fridge no problem with my 200 amp battery and 400 watt panels, but do have sun. 4. FYI...I double wired my space for 120ac AND 12 volt for lights, so save power that way. 5. Consider a 12volt fan in your new battery box.
The fuller your fridge is the less it will cycle on and off. If right now if only has air in it it would explain faster cycling than expected. The more thermal mass in there, the slower it will warm up and need to kick in again - when it does it might run longer than it does now.
Ryan, you should look into cold temperatures and lithium batteries . They say you shouldn't charge them in cold weather .You might have to take the battery back with you between times at the cabin.
I think im going to install a small propane wall heater and just keep the cabin over 40 degrees . I think the battery is fine down to 30 it is a self heated battery though
At 8:42, turn your wire downward under your clamp instead of looping down and then turning up. That will keep a straight path for a more efficient ground.
On sale for $2,375.99, that's a pretty good price for what you get. It didn't cost me much less than that to build a similar capacity system with lead acid AGM batteries.
We might have same macbook!😂 I have to ask u imporatant question. You said “bad” battery… does it say “Service Battery” at top right? My newer mid 2015 macbook says that. I trust your thoughts more than random people online. Is it really ok to use as long as its plugged in? The battery isnt going to bulge or fail? If I can avoid servicing battery, I will try as long as i can. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
My MacBook is a 2011 . it doesn't say anything about service battery , but it drains really fast when unplugged . When it comes to computer tech questions you would be much better off trusting the random online people to me lol .
@@blackspruce1861 no need to reply, but some clarification. IF yours had said “Service Battery” AND youve been using it, albeit plugged in… thatd been good for me. Looks like i still need to replace. Send love to Charlie too🙂🙏🏻
is your mini fridge 12v or AC? i think i saw a lot of van lifers using a 12v fridge saying it saves them some power coz the fridge can run without the inverter turned on. 300ah battery looks really great.
It's an AC fridge . I thought I would go with the AC because I figure most of the people who had asked about a mini fridge were referring to a cheap AC fridge . yes I agree a 12 volt would be better, thats what I put in my DIY camper build and I love it
Have you made a medicine cabinet for a bathroom??? I want to make one but I'm questioning my abilities. And i learn so much from your videos. Sorry to comment randomly on the video I wasn't sure how to reach out.
No I haven't but I did make a kitchen cabinet maybe some of what I did in that video would be helpful but I can't guarantee it will help here's the link to that one if you want to check it out . th-cam.com/video/dzaXz3skXnY/w-d-xo.html. no worries about the comment at all I'm glad you enjoyed it ! thanks !!
You don't need an inverter if you run everything off of DC. You save 30% conversion rate which means you don't need to produce as much power. Win, win, and cheaper, too.
my lights and USB ports are on DC . I thought about a DC fridge but really didn't want to spend the money at the time and most of the people asking about mini fridges I assume were asking about the normal cheap AC style , I really like the DC fridge I put in my camper build so I might get one like that at some point
Get rid of that mini fridge and get an Iceco cooler it’s 35w running for a 45 liter way bigger than the mini fridge and uses less power. You could even get a smaller one to your liking, some have dual zone.
@ Love my Iceco 5 year compressor warranty and that I can change it from fridge to freezer if needed. My smaller EcoFlow 750w battery with extra battery and solar keeps it going fine. Runs 6 days just off my batteries going to hook up my solar panels and see how it does. Lol. Enjoyed your video.
Lifepo4 batteries won't charge below freezing, and are safe for inside unlike acid batteries that emit hydrogen. If you live where it is warmer than freezing, an outdoor shed is fine. The reason for venting the battery box is to prevent the battery bms control from shutting down when it warms up. P.S. Lifepo4 batteries are not like lithium ion batteries that catch fire in people's pockets and houses . They are much safer.
I built 14 battery /inverter backup systems since 2017 and know my way around this equipment. LiFeP04 was the way to go. My big unit had 3600 amp hours in 12 batteries, 12 kw in inverters, 46,000 watt hours power, 2400 watts in solar panels and ran flawlessly 24/7 for more than 2 years. Then a name brand battery caught fire and did $150,000 damage to my shop and garage 3 months ago. It was caused by a faulty BMS. The total load was less than 750 watts and the batteries were at 100% with no more charge coming from solar when the battery caught fire. I absolutely will not trust a battery bank inside my shop any more. I will rebuild with a UL Listed 18Kpv unit with outside battery packs and it will be inside a vented concrete enclosure away from the house with 205 degree activated water spray nozzles inside. There were literally 12 tons of generators, diesel engines, marine engines, machine tools, vehicles, 5 motorcycles and a Ferrari 308GTS inside. I got water on the fire within 70 seconds of hearing the loud POP. I lucked out and was home when it started. th-cam.com/video/ImOw7TXLr9I/w-d-xo.html
One generally doesn't have to worry about LiFePO4, but that doesn't mean they can't fail or run-away. It does happen... just very rarely. And when it does happen the result is a lot of white (toxic) smoke but usually no fire. So I would recommend having a smoke alarm installed to wake you up, but that's probably all you need in terms of safety.
@@junkerzn7312 The battery rack caught fire from the one with the defective BMS on the bottom shelf. The plastic on the cases burned away on 10 of 12 lifep04 300AH batteries. The fire got hot enough to melt the insulation off 4/0 cables and set fire to the MPPT's, inverters, on board chargers, and instrumentation. The smoke alarm above it melted as the ceiling burned through. This was 70 seconds since hearing a loud pop. I saw the thick black smoke, called 911 and tore open my fire hose cabinet on my roof deck and charged the 1'' hose, ripped off the 18x18 skylight, and watched the thick black smoke shoot up into the air like a solid mass. There was no white smoke. I plunged the hose nozzle set to medium spray, 120psi into the smoke and instantly burned my arm. But a few seconds later the smoke cooled and began to turn gray. Yes, a BMS failure like this is probably rare. But I look at many home built power setups and see lots of plywood ready to ignite. I used cement board behind everything above the batteries and it did nothing to stop the flames. The forensic fire investigator texted me yesterday and said they are making progress but have not found the root cause of the failure in the battery.
That might work really well . I was shocked how often it runs . another thing I thought was maybe to freeze a bowl of water in the freezer portion to help it stay colder longer
@@blackspruce1861 I've been running a renogy setup for a couple of years and have a mini fridge that is a little bigger than yours a on 2 100 amp hour renogy gel batteries and have no problems with running it on a timer .
@@blackspruce1861 The other option is to get a 12v portable, that's what I have. I just have a VEVOR brand one that holds 10 cans an a pack of hotdogs but they make bigger. When I close up the cabin I take it home and run it in the garage with the wall adapter to keep the beer cold.
@@criticaleventthat would work nice . Really the best thing I could do would be to get the panels a sunnier spot . If it had more time in full sun it would be no big deal
Lifepo4 batteries won't charge below freezing, and are safe for inside unlike acid batteries that emit hydrogen. If you live where it is warmer than freezing, an outdoor shed is fine. The reason for venting the battery box is to prevent the battery bms control from shutting down when it warms up. P.S. Lifepo4 batteries are not like lithium ion batteries that catch fire in people's pockets and houses . They are much safer.
@@williamirelan9332 My lifepo4 name brand battery, the one on the bottom shelf of 12 batteries x300 amp hours, caught fire after a BMS failed and dead shorted. The battery set fire to 8 batteries above it and did $150,000 in damage to my shop and garage. The unit ran flawlessly for 2 years straight running freezers, fridges, and sometimes a small window AC unit. It had 12kw capacity but was rarely loaded more than 2300 watts, the load was under 750 watts at the time of the fire. For 3 weeks the burned batteries gave off a sickening smell. Red tape delayed the Hazmat team from removing the unit for 7 weeks. I thank God that I was home and utilized my newly installed fire hose cabinet to put it out right before the Fire Engines arrived. I love battery backup and will rebuild, but rest assured, the battery bank unit will be in a concrete bunker away from the house with 205 degree F thermally activated sprinklers inside.
Great upgrade.. BUT.. The fuse you used will not work or blow.. The bolt that holds it goes into the busbar to the top of the fuse thus renders it not really there.. Just saying as I had made this misstake myself.. Cheers Bud
Thanks !! I believe it would . all of the bolts on the positive bus screw into inserts that are in insulated posts behind the bus bar . I would have to look again but I'm pretty sure that the inserts and bolts are isolated from the buss bar , so the only contact is the fuse
Hi again.. I was watching on my phone so could not quite see close enugh to see that the bolt was on a stand off insulated bolt.. just had to say it just incase.. Safe, not sorry.. But a great job.. Have seen people just put a bolt through and use it as an inline fuse.. Cheers
I would just double check the settings on your charge controller. thats a lithium iron phosphate battery which has different chemistry and charge voltages when compared to lithium ion.
That is the standard wisdom: "First you add, then you deduct". Easy thing to teach to example new car owners how to assist starting a car with empty battery using starting cables. So first you add the + and then -. And then when you want to remove cables you remove - and then +.
Don't forget the grounding rod for your car or truck, you know just in case they don't already have one, da. Solar systems already have a ground, only ac seeks ground.
Non combustible backing is recommended for attaching components. Cement board works well. Looks good though. Not wanting to sound like an ass but you are missing fuses also.
No there wasn't . I asked them about that and they said it doesn't need it . at first I was unsure but I guess it does make sense the buss bar can handle 500 amps, so that won't fail then all components landed on the buss bar have their own fusses so I guess it doesn't really need it .
agreed they are much better ,another thing that has been pointed out is that if I had some stuff in the fridge it would help keep it cool longer and wouldn't cycle as much
1st another battery won't work. Your problem is charging, unless you bring a gas/propane generator. Also you can't add just one more 100w panel , you need to add 2 panels to go from 2s2p to a 3s2p configuration. Now that put you at 600 watts but your voltage 74 volt and current(same as before) are well within the limits. The charge controller with clip the excessive watts but you will get more watts earlier and later plus on cloudy days more panels more watts.
Yeah I installed one in my DIY camper in the second video . it does great . I really just bought this because people always asked about mini fridges I figured they were talking about the cheap ones you get from Walmart
You will never be able to tell your state of charge based off voltage while using lithium. You need a proper battery monitor to accurately tell you your state of charge
I can tell from how smart you work that you are a credible , experienced workman...gives me confidence in you and your advice, Thank you very much for sharing your experience & knowledge
Thank you !!
Another great test. I for sure do not understand all what was said but hopefully most of your subscribers can. I'm an old gal. But I do try to learn more about solar. Thanks
Thank you !! I'm glad you enjoyed it !
Great video! If you bought a 12v fridge, it would run longer without having to convert the DC power from the battery to AC through the inverter. There are some decent 12v fridges out there.
Thanks !! I think thats a good point . I bought the one for my camper build from an RV surplus store brand new and love it . honestly if I had a good spot for full sun all day on the panels it would probably be no problem for the ac fridge too
Ryan you do things right and it’s nice to see. Getting me thinking about changing my plan for my future river property and going new construction. Thank you!
wife and i are going off grid on a 2 acre piece of land we bought in Nevada next April.. bought 1000w of solar and have 4-100 amp lipo batteries.. taking these 7 months to learn everything i need to live off grid.. bought 2 mini splits for A/C and diesel heaters for heat at night.. the mini splits can also be used for heat.. but eat allot of battery power.. still figuring the water situation.. but plan on using 2-275 gallon IBC totes.. fortunately Nevada gets tons of sun.. so wont have solar issues there.. all our solar is from Renergy too.. nice vid!
Man that sounds like it's going to be a great setup . you're going to have a great time !! Thank you !!
Always a treat to see your processes carried out. This gives me more hope that I can make an off grid work if and when I get my riverfront property. Good ol Charlie!!
Thanks !! he's such a good boy ! any specific river you're hoping for ?
@@blackspruce1861 upper manistee between ccc and Lucas
I cant tell you BlackSpruce… i have so much awe and respect for your skill set, and the security your are able to provide a family. I feel it is hands down, the most important and valuable possession to be had. You and those around you are so fortunate. Thank you for sharing this beauty and strength. 🙏🏻🍻
Thanks so much !!
That would be a very good way to promote these kits, and even selling the appliance that the kit could run. I've had solar lights for quite a while.
Great addition to that lil cabin.
yeah I like it thanks !!
If you double the solar and the battery it would be enough to run smoothly. If you need another Chg Controller you could always add one & run them together. Also, always hook the battery up first so the charge controller knows what to charge, otherwise it could damage it. Nice, neat system, solid.
Thanks !! if I just had full sun it would do it no problem
when you hook up the inverter your supposted to do it through a resistor to limit inrush current to the inverters capacitors. probably not that important if you only do it occasionally. you could have used your long socket extension as an improvised resistor since its ~10x less conductive than copper wire, would have limited the inrush current somewhat and it was in your other hand when connecting the battery to the inverter lol. very nice setup.
Thank god! A complete kit. I have a very small insulated area in my garage that is for emergency purposes. The sq. Ft. Is 8×8×8. What kit would be appropriate to run a space heater(on electric power that heats the small enclosed area)?
I honestly don't know . I'm not a solar expert by any means . I do know there would be a lot of factors . how well is it insulated , how cold are the winters where you live , basically how often or consistently will it run ? space heaters normally use 750-1500 which is quite a lot to have running all day
More than one way to have electricity without being “on the grid”…..I’ll have to look further into this. Thanks for sharing this information with us, Ryan!
NO problem glad you liked it !
Pretty sweet system! Can’t wait to see what’s next!
yeah it works great !! I've got a couple projects in the works , might be a little while I just tore a calf much so I'll be moving slow for a bit I'm guessing .
Adding a secon set of panels in a differnt spot and second batterywould give more capacity on low solar days. Good review of a simple to install system.
I thought of that too . I think just another set of panels on the other side of the cabin and a second charge controller hooked to the same battery would be enough for me , or just opening up the area a bit for more sunshine would be enough or maybe an elevated stand . the kit is enough it's just the lack or sunny hours . even then its plenty for what I really want
Nice video Ryan. At my cabin I have a small chest fridge which I run from my solar power. What I now tend to do is put the fridge on a simple mechanical timer, and at night when it's generally cooler ( at least here in NZ that is how it is) the fridge goes off for most of the night, just coming on occasionally for a while during the night. Then when the sun comes up and until sundown the fridge runs all the time. I can get away with it running all the time if the days are sunny, but if cloudy or raining for a couple of days the fridge runs my batteries down if it's on all night. Works this way for me anyway.
Thanks !! that sounds like a really good set up
50watts that system should run a Mini fridge for 160 hours...But the real issues is his solar is no in the sun most the time. As you need to charge the battery back up to 100%.. So either increase the amount of solar or install them where you get the benefit of of the Sun all day long.
I run one on 100ah and 220 watt panel. It will run the fridge for 3 days..
Glad to see (view) your new post. Great watching you. Getting ready to go off grid for my office, work area and warehouse. Keeping my one eye on you.
Thanks !! glad you liked it . that sounds like a cool project
Excellent setup, beautiful install !!!
Thanks !!
Thank you. A very informative and enjoyable video. I have a 130 watt, 12V solar set up for LED lighting only. I can see that the inverter etc is a useful upgrade.
no problem , glad you enjoyed it !!
Nice setup. I almost went that route for my off grid family campground. But I bit the bullet and bought an all in one Anker power station. It’s portable. Powerful with outlets everything from usb-c to 240 split phase in case that welding ambition ever takes off, lol. I too am in deep woods and very solar challenged so I have to recharge with an ultra quiet inverter generator. It will fully charge the PS battery in 3 hours and at my usual consumption rate, I can go almost 24 hours on battery alone.
Thanks !!! yeah I love the trees and have no desire to cut them down but sure would help with solar . I'd rather have trees and adjust though
I did the same with 2 Bluetti Power stations. No way would I leave my set-up in a cabin. I just disconnect my panels and strap them to the roof rack of my truck. Load up the power stations and my tools, I'm on my way back to civilization.
For the price it should install itself! Wish I could get onto but I am 70 and due to serious health problems diagnosed in December I had to given up my job 😢in late March so now I only have SS. Praying and believing for miraculous complete healing, and miraculous affordable solar system.
I'm sorry to hear that , I'm wishing you a speedy recovery
Any fool like me can follow your instructions and explanations. 😅😅 you're a great teacher..😊
Thank you! 😃
Super! I love your cabin and your channel. Nice work. 🎉
Thank you !!
Overall a nice clean install. But, (if you did this off-camera, I apologize) I would make a fail-proof as possible way to latch the solar prop rods in place when they are tilted away from the wall and another for when they are hanging vertically. If the weather got really strong and it managed to pop those panels up a couple inches, those panels banging down on the side of the cabin would be of great concern to me.
Thanks !! thats probably a good idea . the cabin is so surrounded by woods I don't think that should be very like but it never hurts to take an extra step , so I might. just do that
Awesome upgrade!
Thanks for the content!!
Thanks !!!
Great job.. Only thing I would change is add #8 solid wire to the ground rod. Then run it around the cabin back to the ground rod. "Without any breaks in it" As it's a myth a ground rod alone works unless you do. Why the NEC code book says you have to do the same thing around the Pool or Sauna. This gives the short to ground a large surface area to bond to. As short to grounds seek the path back to the Source..
Thanks !!
A full frig uses less power, fill it with bottles of water GREAT video !!
Thanks , glad you liked it !! I wondered if that would help just having something cold in it
Nice little system. Starting small to get some experience and then expanding as-needed is the way to go. You'll want to add a lot more solar for sure. You don't have to worry about hot spots developing on panels that small, but shade always does a number on production so reducing shading (when possible) is a pretty big deal.
One of the things you need to do is to determine how much actual energy you are actually getting daily from those solar panels (in watt-hours). With decent sun this will typically be the solar panel wattage x 4 or x 5, but when you have shading or the panel is pointing in a non-optimal direction, this can be x 2 or x 3. So, for example, 400W x 3 = 1200 Wh.
If the inverter is left on 24x7 it has an idle draw of probably around 10-15W. 15W x 24h = 360 Wh, so the inverter overhead is likely eating a large chunk of the generation you get from the panels. Adding more panels to the system solves most problems like that. Your overheads remain fairly static while adding panels gives you more and more energy.
A small fridge averages (taking the cycling into account) 12W to 30W. A full sized residential fridge averages around 60W. 30W x 24h = 720 Wh.
So the fridge plus the idle overhead of the inverter is already going to eat 1100 Wh or more.
You DEFINITELY need more solar panels... at least double what you have there, to achieve a good comfort level. The more the merrier as they say. Note that adding battery capacity does not increase your energy production, so no matter how much battery capacity you have if the solar panels can't keep up they will eventually become empty.
Focus on adding more panels first, for sure. Having more panels solve a lot of problems.
-Matt
Nice kit. It looks like a clean install. That should give you all the power that you will need at the cabin with out using a generator. Todd from da U.P.
yeah so far it's pretty nice ! thanks Todd !
Awesome workshop, thank youu
thanks ! ,
I'm glad you had your puppy to keep you company cuz those bugs were sure trying to keep you company
Oh man the gnats have been horrible this year . This has been one of the best summers I can remember not too hot nice mix of rain just a perfect year and those stupid gnats have made it almost unbearable
Great. Question: why not just install them vertical on the building instead of on the slanted structure? Asking cuz that’s what i want to do on my house.
Best production comes with the angle, you want them as perpendicular to the sun's rays at midday as possible. The fact that he was getting similar voltage in both positions is only because it was a cloudy day and the light was diffused.
you could . I just thought it would be a better angle to point more at the sun .
That makes sense
@blackspruce, Ryan, Nice install! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼Just for clarification, AC grid power is not clean power, it is dirty power. AC power has spikes (as evident by its name alternating current) quite often, hence why all electronics today highly recommend using surge protectors to protect sensitive electronics from those spikes and surges and abate damage.
I have set-up many systems using inverters and I recommend people to buy modified sine-wave inverters and use surge protectors, just the same as they do with grid power. Modified inverters are much cheaper initially and cheaper to replace when they go bad, which they do. I have seen too many pure sine-wave inverters go bad internally and the pure sine (surge protector) part fail and not protect electronics.
Thanks !! I'm just going by what I've read online . I'm definitely not an expert on inverters
Really nice setup looks like a pretty good upgrade from previous plus your videos are always informative on what your doing thanks Ryan and keep posting brother enjoy them all
Yeah it's quite a bit more than what I had ,Thanks I'm hoping to get them rolling out a little more often this fall and winter
Nice set up Ryan!
Thanks!
Great video simple solar set up
Thanks !!!
Very well done procedural video! Nice to see how you upgraded your power system.
Was the fridge pretty empty when you were testing it? If you keep it fairly full, it probably won't cycle as much, but like another commenter mentioned, maybe a 12 volt fridge would be better. And maybe add some sort of insulation layer around the fridge.
Thanks !! yes it was empty , I was thinking that might make a difference too , especially if I froze some stuff in the freezer, portion . I really like the dc fridge I put in my camper build , and think it would do a lot better too
Great looking kit and job. Finally good components that are as close to plug and play as one needs. My friends on 'SIMPLE LIVING ALASKA" channel have done a large setup for their shop. Might want to check out that vid sometime. It's come a long way in a few years. Is there ability to control the unit with a phone APP? Some have that as you can monitor temps and need to remotely turn on system to provide power for heat, etc. Now, I would look at a different frig setup. Maybe a more efficient unit. Also get a power system, Anker, other brands, to plug into the solar unit and then plug the frig into it. A lot more storage capacity along with an extra battery. Put the frig system on a timer. Make sure to check the ground connections after say a month of use. They will loosen up with heat of use and cold of location. The solar panels need rack mounted toward the winter sun with clear skies. All good. Some tweaking but you did a great job. Killer discount on those units. From what I have seen that's a really good brand. All good from east Kentucky USA. Next time
Thanks !! I think it has some app compatibility stuff but I would guess I would have to have Internet at the cabin for it to work . I probably wouldn't use it anyways lol I like it simple . I could see using a DC fridge like I put in my DIY camper build I really like that fridge . I already have a really awesome power station the vtoman 1500x I did a review on it. Yeah man it's quite a big discount and so far I'm really happy with the kit . sounds great see ya next time !!
Also. you're nice & thoughtful of the dog, and live in the world of knotty pine, like me!
Nothing better than not pine and good dogs !
As always, very informative. Great setup you have
Thank you !!
I’m about to wire my cabin but I was thinking of putting a camper fridge with the optional propane since I’ll have a propane stove and probably 50lb tank
Thats a great way to go , lots of people use propane fridges , and really handy for winter when there's less hours of daylight
Thank you, this was very informative and sounds like a good system!
Thanks glad you liked it !! yeah it's doing good !
Hi Ryan, great video, and hello from Nova Scotia. When you do your planned “update” video, could you explain a little more about what the “combiner box” does? I have a very similar system at my off grid cabin (390w panels, Renogy MPPT charge controller, single LiPo battery and inverter), but no combiner box. I run lights, power for propane water heater, and pump off of the 12v dc (I have a propane mini fridge). Breaker/fuses at certain points in the system. Not clear on what the combiner box is doing. You referred to the buss bar so maybe it’s a point for connecting more circuits/devices - like a fuse or breaker panel. Anyway, I’m interested to learn more about it- thanks.
Oh yeah - as to the fridge cycling, once you have a bunch of food and drink in there that has fully chilled, it is likely that the fridge will maintain the lower temperature more constantly and require less cycling and power consumption.
Hi , that really is about all the combiner box is . basically a junction box with buss bars so you can connect all your DC circuits there instead of having a bunch of stuff connected to the battery terminals. I wondered if the fridge would cycle less with cold food in it . that does make sense Thanks !!
here is a tip :> get a cheap (10~15$ ) smart plug that is compatible with tuya and get a light sensor again compatible with tuya and put the sensor next to the panels and plug the fridge into the smart plug , now u need to program the plug to turn off on its own when the sun is low and thats it ^^ u can leave it on forever and it will power on when it can ^^
I'll have to look into this Tuya I'm not familiar with that . sounds like an interesting way to go
Have a similar system, but a RICH controller which is basically a clone. Some suggestions:
1. I have an outside receptacle for my Honda generator wired to an EZ TRANSFER ($99) switch in the cabin in case I need to top off. When the Generator is on it powers my AC directly AND automatically powers a permanently mounted Bluetooth Victron charger.
2. I wouldn't use the LOAD function if I were you. I did some experiments and it has a phantom draw when the internal switch is closed EVEN WHEN YOUR LOAD IS NOT ON!
3. I run a mini fridge no problem with my 200 amp battery and 400 watt panels, but do have sun.
4. FYI...I double wired my space for 120ac AND 12 volt for lights, so save power that way.
5. Consider a 12volt fan in your new battery box.
Hey Rod thanks for the tips !
Thanks for sharing, neat job. So does the inverter connect to the load of charge controller?
Thanks !! the inverter ties directly to the battery through the combiner box
The fuller your fridge is the less it will cycle on and off. If right now if only has air in it it would explain faster cycling than expected. The more thermal mass in there, the slower it will warm up and need to kick in again - when it does it might run longer than it does now.
That makes good sense !
great job, looking for the winter update on it.
Thanks !!
Great kit
yes I'm really happy with it . took a few days to get fully charged but has done great since
Nice kit, de only issue i see is the 3000w inverter i think a bit overpowered, just saying😊
yeah I like it !! well that depends on what you want to do , a circular saw has a starting wattage of around 1600 watts nice to have more than enough
When you cutting any type of plywood and you need an extra hand. Use a bench weight. It will help more than you think.
thanks good tip !
Ryan, you should look into cold temperatures and lithium batteries . They say you shouldn't charge them in cold weather .You might have to take the battery back with you between times at the cabin.
I think im going to install a small propane wall heater and just keep the cabin over 40 degrees . I think the battery is fine down to 30 it is a self heated battery though
At 8:42, turn your wire downward under your clamp instead of looping down and then turning up. That will keep a straight path for a more efficient ground.
that really wouldn't make any difference in the path to ground but it would make it easier for the wire to get ripped out of the clamp
On sale for $2,375.99, that's a pretty good price for what you get. It didn't cost me much less than that to build a similar capacity system with lead acid AGM batteries.
Thats good to know . the only system I've done otherwise was a cheapo kit
We might have same macbook!😂 I have to ask u imporatant question. You said “bad” battery… does it say “Service Battery” at top right? My newer mid 2015 macbook says that. I trust your thoughts more than random people online. Is it really ok to use as long as its plugged in? The battery isnt going to bulge or fail? If I can avoid servicing battery, I will try as long as i can. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
My MacBook is a 2011 . it doesn't say anything about service battery , but it drains really fast when unplugged . When it comes to computer tech questions you would be much better off trusting the random online people to me lol .
@@blackspruce1861 no need to reply, but some clarification. IF yours had said “Service Battery” AND youve been using it, albeit plugged in… thatd been good for me. Looks like i still need to replace. Send love to Charlie too🙂🙏🏻
is your mini fridge 12v or AC? i think i saw a lot of van lifers using a 12v fridge saying it saves them some power coz the fridge can run without the inverter turned on. 300ah battery looks really great.
It's an AC fridge . I thought I would go with the AC because I figure most of the people who had asked about a mini fridge were referring to a cheap AC fridge . yes I agree a 12 volt would be better, thats what I put in my DIY camper build and I love it
Have you made a medicine cabinet for a bathroom??? I want to make one but I'm questioning my abilities. And i learn so much from your videos.
Sorry to comment randomly on the video I wasn't sure how to reach out.
No I haven't but I did make a kitchen cabinet maybe some of what I did in that video would be helpful but I can't guarantee it will help here's the link to that one if you want to check it out . th-cam.com/video/dzaXz3skXnY/w-d-xo.html. no worries about the comment at all I'm glad you enjoyed it ! thanks !!
In the Midwest I'd suggest a small and "simply safe" heating unit.
Nice build. We're those aluminum battery cables?
Thanks !! I don't remember exactly they were 4/0 might have been aluminum but I believe they're tinned copper
Thanks for sharing
My pleasure thanks for watching !!
Nice kit
Thanks !!
Imformative video!
Thanks !Glad it was helpful!
You don't need an inverter if you run everything off of DC. You save 30% conversion rate which means you don't need to produce as much power. Win, win, and cheaper, too.
my lights and USB ports are on DC . I thought about a DC fridge but really didn't want to spend the money at the time and most of the people asking about mini fridges I assume were asking about the normal cheap AC style , I really like the DC fridge I put in my camper build so I might get one like that at some point
It looks like a nice system. I like everything you've done so far since I've been watching. You do everything nice, and neat. Thanks for the update!
Yeah I'm really happy with it so far . thank you , really do like to keep it neat especially my wiring . glad you enjoyed it !!
great vid thx
Thanks , glad you liked it !!
Do you go to your local real estate agent to buy land like this? The same way you buy residential homes?
I planted trees this year to put more healthy oxygen in the air.
Just subscribed, have you made beer from your Black Spruce? I'd give it a try but I have no access to Black only Blue Spruce.
hey welcome to the channel !! . I've never made beer . I wanted to get into it at one point but never did
Great Show, you deserve a big plate of blueberry pancakes. One request please, Charlie needs more air time.
Thanks !! that sounds like a great idea . Charlie gets pretty bored with wiring jobs lol . he'll surely be around on the next one
Get rid of that mini fridge and get an Iceco cooler it’s 35w running for a 45 liter way bigger than the mini fridge and uses less power. You could even get a smaller one to your liking, some have dual zone.
I've thought about giving one of those a try . I really like the DC fridge I put in my DIY camper build too
@
Love my Iceco 5 year compressor warranty and that I can change it from fridge to freezer if needed. My smaller EcoFlow 750w battery with extra battery and solar keeps it going fine. Runs 6 days just off my batteries going to hook up my solar panels and see how it does. Lol. Enjoyed your video.
Need this kit for my box truck 🚚 conversion
Oh yeah id would be perfect for something like that . I would love to do a box truck conversion some day , sounds like a fun project
What dealer did you purchase your Renology system & what is a ballpark total investment$$
Need to keep the fridge full to keep it from cycling so much?
I’ve never been comfortable having a battery system inside my house. A block building outside would make more sense to me. But that’s me. 😊
Yeah that would be a safe way to go !
Lifepo4 batteries won't charge below freezing, and are safe for inside unlike acid batteries that emit hydrogen. If you live where it is warmer than freezing, an outdoor shed is fine. The reason for venting the battery box is to prevent the battery bms control from shutting down when it warms up. P.S. Lifepo4 batteries are not like lithium ion batteries that catch fire in people's pockets and houses . They are much safer.
I built 14 battery /inverter backup systems since 2017 and know my way around this equipment. LiFeP04 was the way to go. My big unit had 3600 amp hours in 12 batteries, 12 kw in inverters, 46,000 watt hours power, 2400 watts in solar panels and ran flawlessly 24/7 for more than 2 years. Then a name brand battery caught fire and did $150,000 damage to my shop and garage 3 months ago. It was caused by a faulty BMS. The total load was less than 750 watts and the batteries were at 100% with no more charge coming from solar when the battery caught fire. I absolutely will not trust a battery bank inside my shop any more. I will rebuild with a UL Listed 18Kpv unit with outside battery packs and it will be inside a vented concrete enclosure away from the house with 205 degree activated water spray nozzles inside. There were literally 12 tons of generators, diesel engines, marine engines, machine tools, vehicles, 5 motorcycles and a Ferrari 308GTS inside. I got water on the fire within 70 seconds of hearing the loud POP. I lucked out and was home when it started. th-cam.com/video/ImOw7TXLr9I/w-d-xo.html
One generally doesn't have to worry about LiFePO4, but that doesn't mean they can't fail or run-away. It does happen... just very rarely. And when it does happen the result is a lot of white (toxic) smoke but usually no fire. So I would recommend having a smoke alarm installed to wake you up, but that's probably all you need in terms of safety.
@@junkerzn7312 The battery rack caught fire from the one with the defective BMS on the bottom shelf. The plastic on the cases burned away on 10 of 12 lifep04 300AH batteries. The fire got hot enough to melt the insulation off 4/0 cables and set fire to the MPPT's, inverters, on board chargers, and instrumentation. The smoke alarm above it melted as the ceiling burned through. This was 70 seconds since hearing a loud pop. I saw the thick black smoke, called 911 and tore open my fire hose cabinet on my roof deck and charged the 1'' hose, ripped off the 18x18 skylight, and watched the thick black smoke shoot up into the air like a solid mass.
There was no white smoke. I plunged the hose nozzle set to medium spray, 120psi into the smoke and instantly burned my arm. But a few seconds later the smoke cooled and began to turn gray. Yes, a BMS failure like this is probably rare. But I look at many home built power setups and see lots of plywood ready to ignite. I used cement board behind everything above the batteries and it did nothing to stop the flames. The forensic fire investigator texted me yesterday and said they are making progress but have not found the root cause of the failure in the battery.
Put your mini fridge on a timer ,once it gets to the right coldness it will hold the cold and wont need to cycle as much.
That might work really well . I was shocked how often it runs . another thing I thought was maybe to freeze a bowl of water in the freezer portion to help it stay colder longer
@@blackspruce1861 I've been running a renogy setup for a couple of years and have a mini fridge that is a little bigger than yours a on 2 100 amp hour renogy gel batteries and have no problems with running it on a timer .
@@blackspruce1861 The other option is to get a 12v portable, that's what I have. I just have a VEVOR brand one that holds 10 cans an a pack of hotdogs but they make bigger. When I close up the cabin I take it home and run it in the garage with the wall adapter to keep the beer cold.
@@criticaleventthat would work nice . Really the best thing I could do would be to get the panels a sunnier spot . If it had more time in full sun it would be no big deal
@@blackspruce1861 Ya I've got mine on the roof and took down a few trees.
👍
Thanks !
What size wire are you using at battery
Just wondering if your batteries give off any gases? I thought the batteries should be stored outside of your living space. 🙋🏻🇨🇦 Enjoyed your video.
I don't believe LIfepo4 batteries give off gas but don't quote me on that . glad you liked it thanks !
Lifepo4 batteries won't charge below freezing, and are safe for inside unlike acid batteries that emit hydrogen. If you live where it is warmer than freezing, an outdoor shed is fine. The reason for venting the battery box is to prevent the battery bms control from shutting down when it warms up. P.S. Lifepo4 batteries are not like lithium ion batteries that catch fire in people's pockets and houses . They are much safer.
@@williamirelan9332 My lifepo4 name brand battery, the one on the bottom shelf of 12 batteries x300 amp hours, caught fire after a BMS failed and dead shorted. The battery set fire to 8 batteries above it and did $150,000 in damage to my shop and garage. The unit ran flawlessly for 2 years straight running freezers, fridges, and sometimes a small window AC unit. It had 12kw capacity but was rarely loaded more than 2300 watts, the load was under 750 watts at the time of the fire. For 3 weeks the burned batteries gave off a sickening smell. Red tape delayed the Hazmat team from removing the unit for 7 weeks. I thank God that I was home and utilized my newly installed fire hose cabinet to put it out right before the Fire Engines arrived. I love battery backup and will rebuild, but rest assured, the battery bank unit will be in a concrete bunker away from the house with 205 degree F thermally activated sprinklers inside.
Great upgrade.. BUT.. The fuse you used will not work or blow.. The bolt that holds it goes into the busbar to the top of the fuse thus renders it not really there.. Just saying as I had made this misstake myself.. Cheers Bud
Thanks !! I believe it would . all of the bolts on the positive bus screw into inserts that are in insulated posts behind the bus bar . I would have to look again but I'm pretty sure that the inserts and bolts are isolated from the buss bar , so the only contact is the fuse
Hi again.. I was watching on my phone so could not quite see close enugh to see that the bolt was on a stand off insulated bolt.. just had to say it just incase.. Safe, not sorry.. But a great job.. Have seen people just put a bolt through and use it as an inline fuse.. Cheers
The whole fam is posting this week
Yeah I noticed that ,well almost Belle's to busy slinging coffee lol
I would just double check the settings on your charge controller. thats a lithium iron phosphate battery which has different chemistry and charge voltages when compared to lithium ion.
that's the setting for it
Just FYI always hook up positive first on dc and disconnect negative first when disconnecting.
I hooked it up in the sequence that was in the Manuel
That is the standard wisdom: "First you add, then you deduct". Easy thing to teach to example new car owners how to assist starting a car with empty battery using starting cables. So first you add the + and then -. And then when you want to remove cables you remove - and then +.
How much is that set up..with solar 2
what do you mean by solar 2 ?
Check the manual. Mounting the inverter vertical may void the warranty (cooling issues.)
I hope not . I didn't read it cover to cover but I didn't find anything talking about the mounting orientation
There is no problem with mounting the inverter vertical. They are air cooled not liquid cooled.
that was kinda my thoughts the fans should do their job either way
Can you post a wiring diagram with wire size
Yiu could augment your system with a portable power supply
yeah thats a possibility , really I just need to get those panels more hours of sun shine
Don't forget the grounding rod for your car or truck, you know just in case they don't already have one, da. Solar systems already have a ground, only ac seeks ground.
@@kenputt1750 I wired it per the instructions
How many watts of your each panel are?
each panel is 100 watts so 400 watts total
@@blackspruce1861 pretty cool…i like the black color of your whole setup including battery as well it looks cool and classy at the same time ☺️👍
I thought so too !!
Another good selling point for solar. Sounds like a suggestion from God.
Non combustible backing is recommended for attaching components. Cement board works well. Looks good though. Not wanting to sound like an ass but you are missing fuses also.
That would be a good idea . the fuses are all in the combiner box between the lugs and bus bar
@@blackspruce1861 There was one between the battery and bus bar? Sorry I may have missed that.
No there wasn't . I asked them about that and they said it doesn't need it . at first I was unsure but I guess it does make sense the buss bar can handle 500 amps, so that won't fail then all components landed on the buss bar have their own fusses so I guess it doesn't really need it .
@@blackspruce1861 im not a pro but have been reading a lot getting ready to start. From everything I’ve seen the fuses are to protect the wiring.
Try a 12 volt fridge.
agreed they are much better ,another thing that has been pointed out is that if I had some stuff in the fridge it would help keep it cool longer and wouldn't cycle as much
1st another battery won't work. Your problem is charging, unless you bring a gas/propane generator. Also you can't add just one more 100w panel , you need to add 2 panels to go from 2s2p to a 3s2p configuration. Now that put you at 600 watts but your voltage 74 volt and current(same as before) are well within the limits. The charge controller with clip the excessive watts but you will get more watts earlier and later plus on cloudy days more panels more watts.
yeah I agree no point in adding another battery when you don't have enough sun
Im pretty sure that each component has own earth and should be connected as done to earth outside..and NOT busbar or battery negative
That what it showed in the manuals ?
Well thats a first for me@blackspruce1861
What's the cost?
The cost is in the description along with a code for a big discount
Mspr: 3,299.99 discount to 2,375.99 with the code BSNOVICEKIT
for 300$ you can get a 12v mini frig that would pull less power.
Yeah I installed one in my DIY camper in the second video . it does great . I really just bought this because people always asked about mini fridges I figured they were talking about the cheap ones you get from Walmart
Sorry to tell you but the positive gets hooked up first not negative
I followed the directions in the book
Can't believe nobody said anything about the huge spark when you hooked up your inverter
Its normal
it seems to be
show voltage while you using all that stuff
ok
Soon roof solar panels
You will never be able to tell your state of charge based off voltage while using lithium. You need a proper battery monitor to accurately tell you your state of charge
those are called shunts right . I should pickle up
That is way too complicated for me! LOL You probably didn't even break a sweat.
no it was pretty hot out lol