As a framer. Our crew of 6, we complete a 1800sq ft house in about 5 days. Then one day of pick up. Complete..done . I've wired a house but always had to hire a licensed contractor to do the panel work for liability.
Hi Jake and Kiva. I found your video series from Dan and Peanut at TinyHouseCustoms. I'm loving both series and find them very educational. Thank you for the time you are putting in to documenting your adventure. There are two things I am curious about. A vast majority of the weight of a tiny house is around the perimeter. The walls are sitting on the flooring but not over the floor framing. Essentially the side walls are sitting on a cantilevered welded 3/16" flange with a filler piece of plywood and the flooring plywood. There is no metal or wood framing under the side walls. I've never seen the trailer in person so I don't have a feel for how strong that is. Do you think that the flange could bend or flex going down the road and fail from fatigue over time? It seems strong enough for tiny houses that are seldom moved but do you think those that move their house a lot would have anything to worry about? Also, I have seen comments that there is only steel and plywood separating the outside air from the inside around the edges of trailer. Some have wondered about that area not having any insulation. Have you noticed anything that would concern you about not having insulation there? Keep up the great work. Dave
+Dave Craker Thanks for watching :D... many people question the flange strength, but we feel 100% confident with it. If you divide the weight of the house's shell by the length of the perimeter that is resting on the flange, you end up with very low load per foot... and for the flange to bend would also require that the bottom plate of your framing twist, which would require a complete structural failure of the entire building... there is more than just the strength of the metal flange that resists bending if you consider the big picture of what is possible/impossible. As for the insulation question: we are not concerned about it because of our extremely mild climate, but since a lot of people have asked this question, we give an example of how you could add more insulation in that area with the new Iron Eagle trailer design in this video: th-cam.com/video/dmMqREa0lWY/w-d-xo.html
+Tiny Nest Wow thanks for a great reply. I'm designing a Tiny House on SketchUp now and the Iron Eagle demo video has got me thinking about modifying my foundation. As I have been watching your awesome videos there is one question that I'm struggling with and I'm wresting with as I design my Tiny House. If the distance between the fender flanges is 100" and the walls fit inside with the sheathing flush, that only gives a inch on both sides for any exterior treatments, fascia and soffets. How did you stay under the 102" max width with so little room to play with? Thanks for the great work and I don't blame you for taking a break from publishing videos. It is certainly a marathon and not a sprint. Dave P.S. What was the material that lined the bottom of the flooring well in the Iron Eagle demo video? Since the joists don't go all the way to the bottom of he well, the cross-supports don't appear to be used in the demo video. Therefore, the entire weight of the house sits on the bolts thru the trailer sides and on the flanges .. correct?
Iron Eagle will actually make different trailer widths (which we talk about in our other Iron Eagle feature video th-cam.com/video/Raonw6HcrVQ/w-d-xo.html) so if you know you will have multiple layers in your siding construction, or need a bigger overhang on your roof, you can start with the correct trailer width. I believe it is galvanized aluminum or steel... it's in the main feature video... but as for the weight bearing, you would also have some kind of shims for the walls to rest on, so most of the weight would again be on the our edge/flange. It's only the floor that rests directly on the joists which are hung on the bolts.
did you guys do the wall framing 12 or 16 inches on center? i have been contemplating which length. materials would make a difference also i suppose. metal or wood, etc.
+Adam Giehtbrock 16" on center. We probably could have done 24" but we knew we had a lot of head room for weight and we're not planning on towing it a lot, so we went a little stronger.
There's a lot more information out there on using wood and it's more DIY friendly. It would be very interesting to try steel and see what that process is like.
If you head to our website you can download the Sketchup project file of our tiny house and see the measurements of everything we used. www.tinynestproject.com/design/
I thought I read somewhere that the double thickness headers weren't really necessary in normal house construction. Is it different for Tiny Houses, or are you just over-engineering everything to be safe.
+MakeMeThinkAgain If you mean that there are two pieces of 2x6 (with 1/2" ply in between) instead of just one 2x6, I'm not sure the requirements. But we did over-engineer things in general and figured it would make the framing flush on both faces to do it this way.
+MakeMeThinkAgain a single 2by6 header for the roof span they are useing would be very adiquit , for up to a 6 foot window opening and the advantage to useing a single 2by6 is the void it leaves you can stuff insolation in
+grizz270 Indeed, having a little extra insulation layer in there would be nice... I feel like it would be best to center a single 2x6 (like within the thickness of the wall). Is it done that way?
I really enjoy your series, it has helped me build my first tiny house, Im about to start with the 2nd one soon
Thank you! That's nice to hear
guys, thank you for sharing your experience with us. It is so detailed and gives a clear picture of what needs to be done.
Thanks for watching!
Looks great so far.
:)
This is awesome
:D
At 40 seconds in, I knew they were in Canada:-)
What gave us away?
As a framer. Our crew of 6, we complete a 1800sq ft house in about 5 days. Then one day of pick up. Complete..done . I've wired a house but always had to hire a licensed contractor to do the panel work for liability.
Good job!
+The Contractor Dude :D
Hi Jake and Kiva. I found your video series from Dan and Peanut at TinyHouseCustoms. I'm loving both series and find them very educational. Thank you for the time you are putting in to documenting your adventure. There are two things I am curious about.
A vast majority of the weight of a tiny house is around the perimeter. The walls are sitting on the flooring but not over the floor framing. Essentially the side walls are sitting on a cantilevered welded 3/16" flange with a filler piece of plywood and the flooring plywood. There is no metal or wood framing under the side walls. I've never seen the trailer in person so I don't have a feel for how strong that is. Do you think that the flange could bend or flex going down the road and fail from fatigue over time? It seems strong enough for tiny houses that are seldom moved but do you think those that move their house a lot would have anything to worry about?
Also, I have seen comments that there is only steel and plywood separating the outside air from the inside around the edges of trailer. Some have wondered about that area not having any insulation. Have you noticed anything that would concern you about not having insulation there?
Keep up the great work.
Dave
+Dave Craker Thanks for watching :D... many people question the flange strength, but we feel 100% confident with it. If you divide the weight of the house's shell by the length of the perimeter that is resting on the flange, you end up with very low load per foot... and for the flange to bend would also require that the bottom plate of your framing twist, which would require a complete structural failure of the entire building... there is more than just the strength of the metal flange that resists bending if you consider the big picture of what is possible/impossible.
As for the insulation question: we are not concerned about it because of our extremely mild climate, but since a lot of people have asked this question, we give an example of how you could add more insulation in that area with the new Iron Eagle trailer design in this video: th-cam.com/video/dmMqREa0lWY/w-d-xo.html
+Tiny Nest Wow thanks for a great reply. I'm designing a Tiny House on SketchUp now and the Iron Eagle demo video has got me thinking about modifying my foundation. As I have been watching your awesome videos there is one question that I'm struggling with and I'm wresting with as I design my Tiny House. If the distance between the fender flanges is 100" and the walls fit inside with the sheathing flush, that only gives a inch on both sides for any exterior treatments, fascia and soffets. How did you stay under the 102" max width with so little room to play with? Thanks for the great work and I don't blame you for taking a break from publishing videos. It is certainly a marathon and not a sprint. Dave
P.S. What was the material that lined the bottom of the flooring well in the Iron Eagle demo video? Since the joists don't go all the way to the bottom of he well, the cross-supports don't appear to be used in the demo video. Therefore, the entire weight of the house sits on the bolts thru the trailer sides and on the flanges .. correct?
Iron Eagle will actually make different trailer widths (which we talk about in our other Iron Eagle feature video th-cam.com/video/Raonw6HcrVQ/w-d-xo.html) so if you know you will have multiple layers in your siding construction, or need a bigger overhang on your roof, you can start with the correct trailer width.
I believe it is galvanized aluminum or steel... it's in the main feature video... but as for the weight bearing, you would also have some kind of shims for the walls to rest on, so most of the weight would again be on the our edge/flange. It's only the floor that rests directly on the joists which are hung on the bolts.
did you guys do the wall framing 12 or 16 inches on center? i have been contemplating which length. materials would make a difference also i suppose. metal or wood, etc.
+Adam Giehtbrock 16" on center. We probably could have done 24" but we knew we had a lot of head room for weight and we're not planning on towing it a lot, so we went a little stronger.
any reason why you didn't use steel studs?
There's a lot more information out there on using wood and it's more DIY friendly. It would be very interesting to try steel and see what that process is like.
I'm going to build one soon, but using steel studs, much lighter
why did u check if the frame was flush before cutting out the rest?
What are the exact measurements of every piece of wood?
If you head to our website you can download the Sketchup project file of our tiny house and see the measurements of everything we used. www.tinynestproject.com/design/
Is your living space going to be smaller than the garage your building it in?
Yup :D
I was curious Jake and Kiva. WHy is the roof canted or sloped...? Is it sloped because of snow and rain...?
It has a 3-12 pitch, which is a low slope, but steep enough to use regular metal roofing. We didn't want to go flat and use some kind or tar roofing.
hey whats the computer program called?
SketchUp!
www.tinynestproject.com/design/
I thought I read somewhere that the double thickness headers weren't really necessary in normal house construction. Is it different for Tiny Houses, or are you just over-engineering everything to be safe.
+MakeMeThinkAgain If you mean that there are two pieces of 2x6 (with 1/2" ply in between) instead of just one 2x6, I'm not sure the requirements. But we did over-engineer things in general and figured it would make the framing flush on both faces to do it this way.
+MakeMeThinkAgain a single 2by6 header for the roof span they are useing would be very adiquit , for up to a 6 foot window opening and the advantage to useing a single 2by6 is the void it leaves you can stuff insolation in
grizz270 Also it saves some weight.
+grizz270 Indeed, having a little extra insulation layer in there would be nice... I feel like it would be best to center a single 2x6 (like within the thickness of the wall). Is it done that way?
no we put it to the out side and put 2 inches of styrafoam on the inside , fiberglas can be used
My wife and I have been married now for 30 years and, we still love each other. Thank god we never live in a tiny house!
What! Why!