Smart Framing For A Warmer Tiny House
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we take you on a tour of the framing details for the Actually Tiny House. By taking a common sense approach to advanced framing techniques, we reduce thermal bridging and improve energy efficiency. For more tiny house resources check us out at actuallytiny.com and follow us on Instagram @actuallytiny where we post a daily build blog including time-lapse videos of the entire build!
I removed my T1-11 siding and replaced with 1.5" Zip System from Huber Woods. And what a difference to keep heat in.
Thanks for the sharing of information.
I won't completely pick every detail apart like a few of the people in the comments.
1. The eye bolt for hammock.
Width is never a equal or often adequate replacement for depth in framing members. I get the "old growth" logic).
2. Thermal performance.
There are calculation charts for something called "Fenistration". Basically the ratio of openings (door/window) that ate permitted. This varies greatly by State. Best to check local areas to ensure the "Certification of Occupancy" if you really intend to use tiny home as a dwelling.
3. Any span over 6' requires two lap studs (minimum 3" load bearing). So you may use the hanger that is breaking the span of your roof. But, if you run into a goofy inspector you may have to do double lap studs anyway. Totally changing the interior detail that you plan.
4. Talking cripple and lap studs.
Point load blocking is usually required. (great, more thermal loss) LOL
5. Floor decking. Plywood orientation. I understand your point about strength. In this small of a project it becomes a matter of choice.
Mitigate the issue of floor sag by using a t&g product.
6. Treated lumber and fasteners.
Use fastener rated for exterior decking and you don't have to worry about anything.
There are a couple of other things that I could go into but I've already said to much. I'm sure I will get a deluge of comments disagreeing with me. HA HA.
One last observation. Framing spacing. Have you heard/thought about 19◇ spacing? This spacing along with double top plate is often both cost effective and efficient.
Thank you and if you would like any clarification please feel free to contact me.
I'm a old broken builder with to much time on my hands. LOL 🤓
I build a tiny house a couple years back using an iron eagle trailer as well! I can tell you the concern for condensation around the edges of the floor on the metal flange is absolutely an issue. We’ve actually had mold start to grow behind furniture if we haven’t dried it out for a while. So yeah definitely recommend the continuous insulation as well!
Thank you for sharing this!
What ended up being the cause of this? air leakage? was your floor and flange thermally broken?
i cant belive you only have 308 likes. you are a very good teacher. i will rewatch this video. and thanks for putting this great info out. TRUST
This is the best video I have find, when it comes to building tiny houses. I Cant wait to see the rest of the videos on this Chanel. Also thumbs up for the production quality of this video.
If you know framing and engineering, this is not really too good for Tiny homes.
This was one of the most informative videos I have watched on framing a tiny house. Thank you!
You explained it at my level.
And, you went into details on things most gloss over. Thank you!
Ive helped my siblings build a few tiny houses, and we are tall, so I often don't have a issue arguing using multiples of 4 so we have to cut less and waste less plywood.
I actually only have done 8 by 16 stationary tiny houses, working on a new one for myself soon
10:10 From what I understand, not only that, but thermal bridging is how/where the condensation forms, which leads to molding. Ideally, a tiny house (and houses in general) should be completely thermally broken, to maximize efficiency and mold-resistance.
Hey. I am planning to build a tiny house this summer. Right now I cut trees to saw my lumber. I have watched many videos now. Yours is fare the best have watched . Thank you for this information in the details.
Such a practical and beautiful build, I think. I will copy a lot of it, when hopefully I'm going to start to build tiny houses.
Great video! Learned many things. Love adding fun stuff. Thank You.
I love the level of detail you provide. Thanks
Just found this video/your channel and it's amazing. Great explanations and visuals to accompany them. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and helping us out in our build process!
Framing your roof with 2x8 @ 24" o.c. in lieu of 2X6 @ 16" will give you a stronger framing system and a deeper cavity for insulation. Not to mention it will be a tad bit lighter as well.
The downside ... you'll want to use at least 5/8" roof sheathing or better if you're not already doing so.
Yes, 2x8 on 24 is a better design for a static structure, but I am concerned that it does not allow for sufficient rigidity bouncing down the road over time. Also... 5/8" sheeting... not so sure you would see much in the way of weight savings.
i love the way you explain things! i immediately checked to see if you had a book.
Great video! You do such a nice job explaining things. This is the best detail I have ever watched in a video of this type. Please keep producing these, they are greatly appreciated!!!
Great video, thank you! You did a great job contextualizing your choices with/against standard construction in a way that let's the viewer see alternatives, but recognize the importance of verifying alternatives before implementing.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video. You highlight some very interesting points regarding your process which although similar to wood home framing require different enough resolutions to create the end product you desire. Good job.
Master of your craft! Great video
That was bloody brilliant, cheers 🇦🇺
Wow! You packed a really impressive amount of not just info, but specifically value, into this video. I've watched a LOT of tiny house content and carpentry content, and I don't often see much anymore that I haven't seen before (not that I'm an expert in real life, haven't built much yet lol just a decent expert on specifically what TH-cam has to offer about tiny homes) but your video brought up some really original and insightful and useful details that are hard for amateurs to stumble onto without knowing industry concepts and key terms to look up. This is stellar. Thanks for the hard work you put into this great resource!
Awesome video, thanks for putting it together! Very informative!! 😃👌
Thank you for this excellent video. You are a natural instructor. Informative and clear!
We went with a Iron Eagle trailer as well for our build, and yeah! 10/10 would recommend!
Im so green to this technical points so very much appreciated !
Oh my gosh this is the video I've been looking for the detail information about the construction Thank you A lot of videos just show the finish product and don't really give a lot of detail about what it takes to Really build so once again thank you so much I appreciate this video and I am a new Subscriber and will be a long time fanfan Due to being a new farm Manager pursuing my own dream Of 1 day becoming my own property manager building my own Tiny home You are truly an inspiration thank you thank you thank you
Excellent video, learned a lot from your little detours on general construction principles. Thank a lot for sharing.
Great to see your thorough and detailed breakdown of this, Brian, as per your kayak builds, thank you. This is something I'm very interested in over the next few years, though getting affordable access to land etc here in Scotland and rest of UK is a major challenge that I'm not yet ready to take on. I'll look up your other resources too. Looking forward to watching the next stages and updates too.
So detailed and yet easy to understand. Thankyou ❤️ from 🇦🇺 Australia
Excellent video.
This is my idea with what building tiny should be. Frugal, practical, simple and built to last.
Consider me subscribed.
this is instructive. many videos make me happy for the builder/owner, but leave me with more questions than answers. thanks for the detailed conceptual pathway. i build in march, and am nearly paralysed with my partial knoweldge, ambivalence in every category. thanks for being the breed of video that gives me the sort of understanding that will make or break my attemped build.
Wow. Thank you SO much. My mechanical experience left me distrustful of traditional framing practices for a tiny trailer build. You have justified that feeling and explained ways to build better, lighter. I am working on plans for my first tiny , and have read many sites, and watched countless hours of videos. Yours is very well done. Going to your website in 3 2 1...
One thing I would have liked to see - a time lapse / build progress video to see the stages as you go. I am sure that there's a lot of stuff that I have seen before, but the concerns about attaching around wheel wells and a metal frame are fascinating to me, having never done anything like it before.
Fantastic work and great explanation.
Enjoying your videos! Thanks for the detailed info 🙂 about to subscribe to learn more!
Experience, the best teacher.
Great. Great. Great. Great info. Good layout of information and great quality video
You definitely did an exceptional job! Some of it may be considered overkill and there was a lot I would alter to reduce weight. But there is a lot you did that I wish I had the patience to do because it looks great. This type of framework is quality and worthy of exposure. I usually keep rough framing rough framing and save the detail for finish work, but kudos.
Again, thank you very much for the information.
Thank for for sharing your experience. This is my first video so I need to look and see if you have done a follow up.
Damn good video! I look forward to seeing more of your videos in the imminent future.
I've learned so much from this one video. Holy smokes, thank you!
New subscriber! Very interesting and informative! Thanks for sharing this with us! Peace to all...💜💙💜
Kudos, You're fantastic. TH-cam is such a fountain of knowledge ready to be consumed.
Dear Sir, very informative, and well done! One question, and one comment...Why not use 4" -5" of foam in ceiling? The cost factor?
And, from an old logger in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas Fir, Red Fir, and Second Growth, all refer to the same species. Old Growth, is also called Yellow Fir, because the heartwood is yellowish, not red, like Douglas Fir is. THANK YOU Sir for your excellent ideas. Please keep it up! Sincerely,MZ
Sorry Fizzy! Sent to the wrong address!
these videos are great man!
The 2x4s above your windows and doors should be spun vertically. Add a 1/2 piece of foam insulation between to make up thickness of the wall studs and have a thermal break.
Great video. I learned a lot from watching this.
Super useful info. Information overload for tonight. Bedtime soon.....
Good looking trailer!
Great video. Thank you.
Fantastic vid. So clearly explained. Thank you.
Agreed!
Wow. Dude you're a legend.
Very detailed and respectful,useful,pro tips that you mentioned that should definitely be took into consideration pleasure watching thanks and god bless you
Love it thanks for sharing ...
Very detailed, yet concisely presented information...I'm getting ready to build my first tiny house, and this is the kind of channel I have been looking for. Subscribed. Keep it comin!
This channel is the best for beginner builders (or anybody) by a long shot. You sir, do a marvelous job explaining all the little details you put in and why you do it. Thankyou so much!
Lmao
Really good video .
this was good info, thanks
Excellenr. Thanks for the structural details that r always overlooked but so important to have a thought process. Would like more explanation of how u did the insulation - not very clear but imp I’m sure. Thanks
We have a separate video explaining the wall insulation, but in the roof it's basically 2" foam, spaced 1/2 down from the sheathing to make an air gap for ventilation, then rock wool beneath the foam, then the ceiling.
I have 2 trailers coming to start my first two tiny house rentals. This is so helpful. Did you draw up your own plans or find these somewhere? Thanks
I think you’re correct about not using the pressure treated lumber. The corrosives used in that treatment are Not good for any of your fasteners, or the substrate that you’re attaching to. You’re not having a ground contact issue at all, just potentially a condensation issue with wood contacting steel. That’s easy enough to isolate with a gasket or a membrane of some nature. Thus minimizing the thermal bridge, and dealing with potential condensation issues in contact with wood and metal.
Lol, I know you as the kayak/canoe guy! Last person I expected to see in this!
👍well done!
SO MUCH VALUABLE INFORMATION AND INSPIRATION. I WANT TO BUILD COLLAPSIBLE MODULES IN A RENTED ROOM. I LIKE THE IDEA OF COMPARTMENTALIZATION OF TINY SPACES AND FREE-STANDING, DUAL-PURPOSE STORAGE LIVING. IT HAS TO BE STRUCTURAL WITHOUT DAMAGING WALLS.
Hi, thanks for the great info, wondering if you have a video on roof/ceiling framing and if you have consider to vent the roof like many do. they say if you use spray foam theres no need to create a venting system, but if you use other kind of insulation you do. thanks.
great video
Excellent!!!
Extremely helpful - thank you for sharing.
Quick question regarding the plywood subflooring:
It would seem that the subfloor is not secured at the perimeter, floating on the XPS foam insulation. I understand that XPS is very strong in compression, so no worries there. But I wonder if you have experienced any deflection, while walking on the Maple flooring along the exterior walls? Thanks again.
I am building tiny houses in Alaska and I like the video. Looks like a good job. I would however be a little concerned about the structure of the roof if you have any kind of snow load. General rule is 1 foot of span for 1 inch of 2x. For instance, 2x4 spans 4 feet, 2x6 spans 6 feet and so on. 10 feet really is a stretch for 2x6. You may consider adding another cross beam. Also I seen a knot hole above your head when you were explaining the hanging chair support. If that 2x6 is spanning 10 feet and now you have a weak spot in that board, it will further weakens the roof. I have not seen those trailers before, I will definitely look into those.
wow- thanks for sharing
Hi this video is an incredible resource so thank you to both of you for all of your efforts here on the channel. I am wondering if you have calculated the gross weight of the tiny house (unfurnished)?
this is a really interesting and informative walkthrough, quality work. Really appreciate you sharing this. I'm curious as to how you would do this for 4 season living? Is the plumbing geared towards shore hook up use or are there holding tanks involved?
The plumbing is geared towards versatility. I set it up so I can change it to a variety of configurations easily.
Thankyou for the helps
Nice video. Thanks.
First off, love these videos wish you had more! Question on the detail where the sill plate meets the metal trailer, any reason for no sill foam gasket between the sill and metal trailer? Also, any reason for not adding a vapor barrier to the floor frame before adding the sheathing? Thanks!
Great content highly thought out, your window framing with the angled support it seems with an externally flanged window to make window sill angled for drainage, the top of window needs to tilt out. Theoretically this will happen with a plumb wall. Is this within the margin or error in construction? Or do you find this truly works? Great video , this is the only thing I questioned.
Thank you for making this ADHD friendly...the way you presented the information, hand movements, and giving visuals kept my attention...thank you for being a teacher and not just someone vomiting up information...you have no idea how much that means...thank you❤️❤️❤️
Thermal break such as slices of foam insulation between studs and sheathing helps with thermal loss.
Very informative. A few things I was unaware of. Especially with window headers and thermal bridging. I was wondering if using a sip panel roof. Would be cost effective? It would give more R value than using insulboard and bat insulation. But I'm not sure if it would add more weight.
The only problem with a sip panel other than cost, weight, and installation challenges, is you have to have some way for the top of the panel to breathe, if you put ice and water shield over it and then roofing, there is a chance that the wood on top of the sip could rot out. So with SIPS often people will build up a vent space composed of spacers and a second layer of plywood. Things get heavy and complicated though. For the life of me I can't get a straight answer from SIP manufacturers whether or not they will warranty a roof just built with membrane and roofing screwed on. I want to know!
On the 21.39 mark of your video. What is that black channel looking thing between the ceiling and the wall stud up in the corner? Is that some kind of venting? I watched your insulation video and that wasnt explained at all other the you were gluing blocks to you foam insulation before installing them to the ceiling. Do you have a video on that at all as my tiny cabin is in a extreme enviroment and i dont want mold.
Well done
Brilliant window sill slope
You should look into using SIPs. Built in structural insulation.
Great video!
A few things I'd have done differently...but that's life, right?
Thanks for such a great video! I hadn't seen the way you framed up the windows before. And great tip on the sloped window sill! Low-tech clever solutions are the best. :)
The one thought I had while watching was about bolts or other metal components that are connected, by metal, to the trailer itself. It might be beneficial to use a little bit of spray foam from a can on them (probably just $100 on both the hardware and foam itself to do this ... and it can also be used for better air sealing elsewhere, too). This will reduce the thermal bridging of the bolts and metal pieces, which can be huge when they are connected to the trailer bed (big heat sink). In addition to efficiency improvements, this can be good if these parts are not super well air sealed from interior warm, more humid air that could cause condensation on those very cold bolt heads in the colder months (rot concern).
i got a crush on you after seconds. precis, to the point, easy, structured and handsome =) thank you!!!
Thank you for shareing
love the floor insulation, but i would of done 24" on center on the walls.
@actuallytiny2537 I've watched this a couple times and found most of it great advise, but I'm truly curious where you got the info on the fibers of the plywood being stronger one way vs the other? The construction of the plywood and the reason it's so beneficial and sturdy is because each layer is rotated 90 degrees, so the fingers are running both lengthwise and widthwise so there isn't any noticable difference between the orientation of the board. Because the grains/fibers are perpendicular to each subsequent layer is what makes it stable and prevents it from moving
Hey do you think all the extra blocking between floor joists sort of negates the benefits of using 24" o.c. spacing?
Thanks for the video. I'm curious why you wouldn't use steel studs in your walls. More room for insulation, less weight and cheaper.
That's not a bad idea. I bet you could, but it is a moving trailer so I think there is some structural requirements, would maybe need a solid welded main frame or something.
LOVE the basic floor plan design. Perfect size, in my opinion. I’m older and don’t need tight stairs, so this single story design meets that need too. Great detail and features. First design in tiny homes that honestly addresses need for some degree of storage 👍 and other daily living needs The deck with kitchen pass through is perfect. Overall, this is FANTASTIC and will be part of my guidance when I design.
The potential of this design in exciting.
Only thing I would add to the approach is more solar and other forms of passive energy production and storage. But that would work for me since I live much further south. I’m not sure how cost effective solar would be up in region around Quebec, so this comment is not criticism.
Because so many county building codes and tax codes differ in the USA, I also want to avoid the loft/stairs issue - and, consider old age for myself. I wish more tiny home videos showed and also explained not having a loft. I am hoping for a murphy bed, but am not sure about the weight or cost or the thickness or how different hardware affects the weight and thickness - or how ventilation of the mattress will work.
@@genkiferal7178look up beds on linear actuators. Better than a Murphy bed in my opinion. The bed lifts directly up into the ceiling when not in use, so it can stay fully made up and be ventilated from underneath. When lowered, it can rest on purpose-built furniture or framing so it is stable and safe.
@@Tonisuperfly Oh, I've seen those and they are interesting. But, with a murphy bed, you cannot see the bed anymore and you don't have to worry about expensive mechanical parts or engines wearing out.
A murphy bed seems more simple to me. I would cover the door part of it, though, with a pretty fabric so that the mattress could still breathe...maybe a silk-screen type of look or just linen and have other linen elements in the house - maybe curtains and slip-covers.
Do you have a diagram of how you positioned the foam on the trailer and the frame on top? I understand that you have bolted the frame laterally to the trailer but you can't tighten all the way with that foam in between correct? Won't it compress?
It's not under the plate - it butts into the side of it. Extruded poly foam has actually got a very high uniformly-distributed compressive strength meaning if you stand on it with high heels it'll get a hole in it but if you spread that load over the entire surface it'll barely compress.
I would suggest notching the post to receive the beam and THEN bracketing them together. It would be a catastrophic failure if the trim 2x4 were removed by someone who was not aware of its structural purpose in the future. Additionally, those bracket screws create a line for splitting out that post when subjected to the bouncing going down the road. If the 2x4 trim is not exactly the same expansion/contraction/length required to mirror that of the post, I would be concerned fatigue over time would be a problem. Your design considered vertical loading but perhaps not the horizontal and twisting when the trailer is unevenly supported due to pot holes or other road debris which will apply torsional loading which could very well split that post. If however you had notched and glued the beam into the post with lag screws from the outside to pull and hold the beam into the post in addition to the bracket and the final 2x4 support, I think it would be a much stronger structure overall because it would eliminate the hinge effect which you currently have at that joint. Consider Japanese joinery wherein multi -story buildings have survived earthquakes and hurricanes for centuries without a single bracket or metal fastener.
Love it, be nice to incorporate more recycled materials ;) lotta resources used in all of that new material
Good info. for builders who want to save both money and weight on their tiny house. I can't really argue with anything that you said. I would like to know what you are planning to use for the interior wall finish - drywall or plywood? I don't think drywall is suitable if this unit will be on the road a lot. Also I would use some 29 ga. diagonal galvanized metal strapping to the studs interior and exterior to stiffen the overall structure to road flexure as well as to wind resistance. I assume that all members and cladding are screwed together rather than nailed.
I designed the shape of this house with massive sheer panels so the whole thing sheathed with half inch ply ring nailed together and the continuous flat plane of the roof is probably going to be fine to deal with moving the house. If you’ve got good sheer strength sheet rock will hold up in a tiny house although probably not something that’s designed to be moved all the time. We also glued the sheer panels on in addition to the ring nails.
Would you frame more if you were putting in lofts? I really need strong lofts for my kids in mine, and I don't want to be worried when they try to get them of their friends up their to see their lofts. Like I want to be sure the structure is hefty and safe.
I understand your point on the headers not being needed, but it still freaks me out. I’d probably have done at least a double 2x4 on edge header and put 1/2” of foam on the inside. Just me. Love the detail in planning!
Dude it's basically a shed. Lol. It doesn't have 10s of thousands of pounds to support
i make the dobble top plade different, one flat and the 2nd sunk into the horisontal studs, its way stronger, for little ekstra work
Very nice