I already commented on Instagram, but it was worth another view. Very valuable info. I'm very much looking forward to your upcoming video on resin. Good stuff.
NP, I'm also about to do the short version much better. I spent more time editing. This is just a short clip out of a larger video that's why it's a bit... strange.
@@J3DTech All good info either way. Looking forward to the longer form video. Is it a Saturn 4 review? I just got my ultra as well, and looking forward to your thoughts and recommendations on usage/settings
This was EXACTLY the information I was looking for! I had a feeling that the RERF were messing with my calibration results. My data were all over the place, and confused me to the point of where I was about to give up. So from now on (and untill it's calibrated) I will be using YOUR box of calibrations and only print ONE at a time. I can't wait to get started calibrating with the box. Do you suggest to cure it first, before testing? Also - f... TFF for doing what they did to you.
@@therealjonaswp602 No problem! I like to cure them for about 1 - 2 minutes before I mess with them. I really prefer not to handle uncured resin. I also highly recommend going no lower then 2s wait before print or light off delay depending on the printer. Keep in mind you're not trying to try all the pillars. Just as many as you can while maintaining the controlled variable. That being Dimensional accuracy.
@@J3DTech you and me both. I hate handling that resin uncured. Funny thing is, out of all the 3D orinting guides I’ve read (and believe me, I’ve read a LOT), yours is the ONLY one touching the settings regarding wait time before print. I actually didn’t see the importance of it, untill I read your info on it. Very detailed and good explanation that one can understand. Before today, my setting was 1 second (at least I think it was) - been using chitubox and with an Saturn 4 Ultra. Moving to Lychee now. And I changed the setting to 2,4 sec wait before print. Not sure what it is called in Chitubox though. Also made it 10 sec before print on bottom layers. Yup! As you wrote on the guide, not all resins can create all pillars, so as long as only the .1mm doesn’t print, I’ll be fine.
@@therealjonaswp602 It's so important it changes calibration completely. It's probably the single most important setting behind the UV exposure time and nobody touches it. Of course the biggest reason would be. It adds a lot of time to your print and so you got to find that balance between how long you're willing to wait and the quality and success rate you want to achieve. But if you're trying to calibrate your resin so that things look the way they do on the 3D file, this simply can't be done without the proper wait times. In lychee slicer it's called wait before print. I've seen some places call it. Wait after retract or light off delay. They all mean the same thing.
@@J3DTech exactly! I was shocked when I read about it and at the same time pissed that I hadn’t heard about it untill now. So much resin wasted haha! That combined with the RERF issues, would have made my calibrations….well, yeah… faulty. Oh wait times aren’t a factor tbh. I’d rather wait longer and then get those exquisite details and high success rate. Nothing more annoying than cleaning a vat. That is my main goal - to get my prints to look like the 3D file. And yup, it’s called wait after retract in chitubox, I remember.
When you talk about publishing setting you are talking specifically about for these two printers or for the resins. also that will be published on your printing guide in the description? as always thank you for the informative videos
@@baldurironshield5083 Most printers have the same settings. I'm publishing them for a Anycubic printer and Chitubox printer. The Saturn 4 Ultra will be very different
@@baldurironshield5083 It should be that way hit seems to have 2 flaws at the moment. One will require a new build plate to be released like the M5s at launch. The other, a firmware update could most likely resolve.
@@J3DTech the firmware issue - would that be the bug where it makes “lasagna”? Also, what is the issue regarding the buildplate - Anything I should be aware of as a S4U owner? So I should probably not use your printer settings from your website for my S4U then.
@@therealjonaswp602 The s4u is very interesting. It's marketed as having auto level but it actually doesn't. There's no mechanism, physical or otherwise that can level the LCD during the print. I can probably say it has a manual Z offset due to it having a pressure sensor in the arm. The downside of the Saturn 4 Ultra is that if you're having issues with leveling, there's no way to override it. It's not designed to be tweaked in any way or another. As far as the calibration settings, you don't use lift height or lift speed. You set those to zero but everything else still applies.
Revisiting this again, but in the case of the Saturn 4 Ultra specifically. Just because of the tilting Vat. Does your opinion change on this functionality?
I have the S4U and the M5U. I will test both but will still change the wait times. How much will this effect on this printer due to the over all speed and reduiced peeling roces. I will find out! Also I'm about to upload a new video about Elegoo printers, the end section is somethign few know about.
Ciao, complimenti per i tuoi video sono molto chiari , la consigli come stampante da comprare? mi piacerebbe un tuo parere , sono settimane che giro tra video sul web per capire cosa comprare ...... io avevo un Elegoo mars pro che ho venduto perche' ad oggi ho esigenze diverse e volevo qualcosa con volume maggiore di stampa, che mi dia cmq dei lavori dettagliati. grazie per una tua eventuale risposta.
Yeah there's a crop of youtube mini guys who really love talking about why this is an incredible thing for your printer to have but... they're youtube mini guys. I don't think it'll kill the average user to spend the 20 minutes or so doing a couple of fine-tune calibration prints to hone it in. I don't need to try a hundred different resins on 5 machines to make videos about them.
I have some settings that I spent a lot of time making, copy paste, run 1-2 calibration print and you're done.If you want to push settings to faster print. 100% up to the end user but I have found that most people just want very high success and the quality they paid for out of their printer / resin.
@@runklestiltskin_2407 I'm given a very unique perspective in the industry. I developed a true tensile strength calibration method. Boxes of Calibration. This method is very different then anything out there that the objective is to get as many pillars to print while always maintaining dimensional accuracy. Because of this I help thousands of users find tensile strength. I do this by having them add wait before print time. They will send me measurements before and after on every printer and resin. From 0s, 0.5 and up. Going from 0.5 to 2s wait before print can be the difference of 0.5s - 1.5s UV exposure time. This is massive! and RERF can easily add more wait times than this. Aka RERF gives you bad data not always but most always.
@@J3DTechnot before print, 500ms delay after exposure, that's what was discussed in the video, so the first corner of the rerf waits for 500ms, the second for 750ms, the third for 1000ms, instead of 0 wait, 250ms wait for the second field of the rerf, 500ms for the third, how big can the impact still be, if you already start at 500ms instead of 0
@@J3DTech This is the conversation between Fauxhammer and me. - Can you please compare the quality of saturn ultra 4 vs mars 5 ultra.İ wonder 6 micron diffrence on y axis makes visible diffrence - I was thinking of this. but I can tell you the Mars 5 is worse. and this issue is nothing to do with the Pixel size, but instead it is the poor UV transmittance of the 9k screens used in the mars 5. it results in overexposure of the models. is it significant? not massively. is it noticeable... yes - Are you sure its not ''silicon lottery'' kind of situation or maybe even solveable thing through fine tuning the machine?Do you think a potential firmware update from elegoo side can fix that issue? Dear J3D after watching your review i thought maybe Fauxhammer's experience with machine may due to RERF in mars 5.Because his Mars 5 U review also had problem with x-y accuracy on cones of calibration v3 during exposure test. Can you enlighthen me on this issue please.Is Saturn 4 U really superior machine in print quality also ?
@@canalpan9 I don't have a Mars 4 Ultra but I can compare it against a Mini 8ks. However this makes no since, RERF does suck and should not be used but the UV power can be turned down in the slicer to match another printer. If the UV power is not even across the LCD you can always spot check for accuracy on any given part so this really doesn't matter. However, what I have noticed is that the tilting vat is deleting some details due to a simple and obvious issue. The back is the VAT is peeling very slow. The front of the VAT is peeling super fast. When the vat comes home, the PSI is high in the back lower in the front. This makes a wedging effect. Both of these are affecting details in a negative way.
@@J3DTech I was talking about Saturn 4 U vs Mars 5 U diffrence not Mars 4 U.(maybe its autocorrect from ur side idk) I tried to say 'maybe' FauxH's experience about low quality prints from Mars 5 U is cause of he only tried it with RERF and not about low UV transmittance.Its just maybe. Its a great idea to test FH's UV transmittance hypothesis but if he is right 9k screens just doomed again 12k screens no matter the micron size advantage they have.Coz u can turn UV transmittance down but not up. Reading what u say about tilting mechanism lowering print quality is just horrible.dont even know what to say i thought ill buy S4U or M5U now i have no idea. Which machine do you suggest has best print quality in those price range? or should i wait 1 more year maybe. Thank you for your reply🙏
@@canalpan9 Ah ok, well I have the S3U and the S4U and the conversation is exaclty the same. I'm doing a LOT of prints ATM and I will release my full review soon. For now, I've published a LOT of data on these printers if you have not, Join the Lychee Discord where I post it ahead of any review. I will also try to make more shorts of the process to keep people updated while I work on the main video. This is not my main job so it takes me 10x the time as others to make a single 16min video. For now, for a medium sized printer would recomend the Revo, M7Pro or the GK2. That's about it...
the vendor settings are nothelpfull if you print 0.02 or 0.025 so its a god sent its also esay just make cones of cali. 8x form 1,2-2,1 sec then do the one you think is good and make it again just this setting ...
@@dasdasdadsa5910 When you calibrate using cones. What are you actually calibrated to? Let me ask in another way. If I made three versions of cones. One where all the top cones are 5% larger forcing you to increase your UV exposure to make them print. Another 5% smaller forcing you to lower your UV exposure to print. What version is the correct exposure and why?
@@dasdasdadsa5910 V3 took my entire concept of Boxes of Calibration. That I Developed when I was 1 of only 3 Admins at Tff discord. What is funny is that this was done after I was kicked from TFF discord for saying that Cones was flawed. So if they are not flawed, why was my design and my work required?
Oh wow that’s bad ! Why do we humans need to fuck up others all the time … whot exposure test would you recommend for mini printing I found for me the cones are better because the flat ones are good for xy but don’t resemble supports well
@@dasdasdadsa5910 I don't know, this one really hit me hard after how much I gave to them. I made Boxes of Calibration back in 2022. I've tested them on every single pre-supporter I can, persionaly over 30 resins + many many more mixes. Plus thousands of others. They work great for minis or massive prints, Wax, ABS or even engineering resin. What's best is that it's a way to print at perfect accuracy while also maintaining the most strength your resin can offer. You will find them here: docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit#bookmark=kix.cq1i76pon3wz I also recomend givng this a read: sites.google.com/j3dtech.com/calibrate/home
![⭐ฮิตในTikTok!! ( มะมะมะหมูเด้ง MooDeng ) Ver. แดนซ์ ReMix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4noyAoMa7bQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I already commented on Instagram, but it was worth another view. Very valuable info.
I'm very much looking forward to your upcoming video on resin. Good stuff.
Oh hell yea, thanks for covering this Derek!
NP, I'm also about to do the short version much better. I spent more time editing. This is just a short clip out of a larger video that's why it's a bit... strange.
@@J3DTech All good info either way. Looking forward to the longer form video. Is it a Saturn 4 review? I just got my ultra as well, and looking forward to your thoughts and recommendations on usage/settings
This was EXACTLY the information I was looking for! I had a feeling that the RERF were messing with my calibration results. My data were all over the place, and confused me to the point of where I was about to give up. So from now on (and untill it's calibrated) I will be using YOUR box of calibrations and only print ONE at a time.
I can't wait to get started calibrating with the box.
Do you suggest to cure it first, before testing?
Also - f... TFF for doing what they did to you.
@@therealjonaswp602 No problem! I like to cure them for about 1 - 2 minutes before I mess with them. I really prefer not to handle uncured resin.
I also highly recommend going no lower then 2s wait before print or light off delay depending on the printer.
Keep in mind you're not trying to try all the pillars. Just as many as you can while maintaining the controlled variable. That being Dimensional accuracy.
@@J3DTech you and me both. I hate handling that resin uncured.
Funny thing is, out of all the 3D orinting guides I’ve read (and believe me, I’ve read a LOT), yours is the ONLY one touching the settings regarding wait time before print. I actually didn’t see the importance of it, untill I read your info on it. Very detailed and good explanation that one can understand.
Before today, my setting was 1 second (at least I think it was) - been using chitubox and with an Saturn 4 Ultra. Moving to Lychee now. And I changed the setting to 2,4 sec wait before print. Not sure what it is called in Chitubox though. Also made it 10 sec before print on bottom layers.
Yup! As you wrote on the guide, not all resins can create all pillars, so as long as only the .1mm doesn’t print, I’ll be fine.
@@therealjonaswp602 It's so important it changes calibration completely. It's probably the single most important setting behind the UV exposure time and nobody touches it.
Of course the biggest reason would be. It adds a lot of time to your print and so you got to find that balance between how long you're willing to wait and the quality and success rate you want to achieve.
But if you're trying to calibrate your resin so that things look the way they do on the 3D file, this simply can't be done without the proper wait times.
In lychee slicer it's called wait before print. I've seen some places call it. Wait after retract or light off delay. They all mean the same thing.
@@J3DTech exactly! I was shocked when I read about it and at the same time pissed that I hadn’t heard about it untill now. So much resin wasted haha! That combined with the RERF issues, would have made my calibrations….well, yeah… faulty.
Oh wait times aren’t a factor tbh. I’d rather wait longer and then get those exquisite details and high success rate. Nothing more annoying than cleaning a vat.
That is my main goal - to get my prints to look like the 3D file. And yup, it’s called wait after retract in chitubox, I remember.
Thanks for the video my friend.
When you talk about publishing setting you are talking specifically about for these two printers or for the resins. also that will be published on your printing guide in the description? as always thank you for the informative videos
@@baldurironshield5083 Most printers have the same settings. I'm publishing them for a Anycubic printer and Chitubox printer.
The Saturn 4 Ultra will be very different
@@J3DTech okay good to know. I was thinking of getting the Saturn 4 ultra just cuz I want things to be easy as possible
@@baldurironshield5083 It should be that way hit seems to have 2 flaws at the moment. One will require a new build plate to be released like the M5s at launch. The other, a firmware update could most likely resolve.
@@J3DTech the firmware issue - would that be the bug where it makes “lasagna”?
Also, what is the issue regarding the buildplate - Anything I should be aware of as a S4U owner?
So I should probably not use your printer settings from your website for my S4U then.
@@therealjonaswp602 The s4u is very interesting. It's marketed as having auto level but it actually doesn't.
There's no mechanism, physical or otherwise that can level the LCD during the print. I can probably say it has a manual Z offset due to it having a pressure sensor in the arm.
The downside of the Saturn 4 Ultra is that if you're having issues with leveling, there's no way to override it. It's not designed to be tweaked in any way or another.
As far as the calibration settings, you don't use lift height or lift speed. You set those to zero but everything else still applies.
Revisiting this again, but in the case of the Saturn 4 Ultra specifically. Just because of the tilting Vat. Does your opinion change on this functionality?
I have the S4U and the M5U. I will test both but will still change the wait times. How much will this effect on this printer due to the over all speed and reduiced peeling roces. I will find out!
Also I'm about to upload a new video about Elegoo printers, the end section is somethign few know about.
@@J3DTech looking forward to it!
@@Aztechnology. It's up!
Ciao, complimenti per i tuoi video sono molto chiari , la consigli come stampante da comprare? mi piacerebbe un tuo parere , sono settimane che giro tra video sul web per capire cosa comprare ...... io avevo un Elegoo mars pro che ho venduto perche' ad oggi ho esigenze diverse e volevo qualcosa con volume maggiore di stampa, che mi dia cmq dei lavori dettagliati. grazie per una tua eventuale risposta.
Right now I would suggest getting the Mega 8k or the Saturn 3 Ultra. Maybe best to avoid any printer with Auto leveing.
Yeah there's a crop of youtube mini guys who really love talking about why this is an incredible thing for your printer to have but... they're youtube mini guys. I don't think it'll kill the average user to spend the 20 minutes or so doing a couple of fine-tune calibration prints to hone it in. I don't need to try a hundred different resins on 5 machines to make videos about them.
I have some settings that I spent a lot of time making, copy paste, run 1-2 calibration print and you're done.If you want to push settings to faster print. 100% up to the end user but I have found that most people just want very high success and the quality they paid for out of their printer / resin.
How big is this effect, if you incorporated a .5s light off after exposure? Anycubitch has this Rerf method for an eternity.
@@runklestiltskin_2407 I'm given a very unique perspective in the industry. I developed a true tensile strength calibration method. Boxes of Calibration. This method is very different then anything out there that the objective is to get as many pillars to print while always maintaining dimensional accuracy.
Because of this I help thousands of users find tensile strength. I do this by having them add wait before print time. They will send me measurements before and after on every printer and resin. From 0s, 0.5 and up.
Going from 0.5 to 2s wait before print can be the difference of 0.5s - 1.5s UV exposure time.
This is massive! and RERF can easily add more wait times than this.
Aka RERF gives you bad data not always but most always.
@@J3DTechnot before print, 500ms delay after exposure, that's what was discussed in the video, so the first corner of the rerf waits for 500ms, the second for 750ms, the third for 1000ms, instead of 0 wait, 250ms wait for the second field of the rerf, 500ms for the third, how big can the impact still be, if you already start at 500ms instead of 0
great detail.may i ask if you have a mars 5 ultra under your hand also?
@@canalpan9 Yep I have I one
@@J3DTech This is the conversation between Fauxhammer and me.
- Can you please compare the quality of saturn ultra 4 vs mars 5 ultra.İ wonder 6 micron diffrence on y axis makes visible diffrence
- I was thinking of this. but I can tell you the Mars 5 is worse. and this issue is nothing to do with the Pixel size, but instead it is the poor UV transmittance of the 9k screens used in the mars 5. it results in overexposure of the models.
is it significant? not massively. is it noticeable... yes
- Are you sure its not ''silicon lottery'' kind of situation or maybe even solveable thing through fine tuning the machine?Do you think a potential firmware update from elegoo side can fix that issue?
Dear J3D after watching your review i thought maybe Fauxhammer's experience with machine may due to RERF in mars 5.Because his Mars 5 U review also had problem with x-y accuracy on cones of calibration v3 during exposure test.
Can you enlighthen me on this issue please.Is Saturn 4 U really superior machine in print quality also ?
@@canalpan9 I don't have a Mars 4 Ultra but I can compare it against a Mini 8ks.
However this makes no since, RERF does suck and should not be used but the UV power can be turned down in the slicer to match another printer.
If the UV power is not even across the LCD you can always spot check for accuracy on any given part so this really doesn't matter.
However, what I have noticed is that the tilting vat is deleting some details due to a simple and obvious issue.
The back is the VAT is peeling very slow. The front of the VAT is peeling super fast.
When the vat comes home, the PSI is high in the back lower in the front. This makes a wedging effect.
Both of these are affecting details in a negative way.
@@J3DTech I was talking about Saturn 4 U vs Mars 5 U diffrence not Mars 4 U.(maybe its autocorrect from ur side idk)
I tried to say 'maybe' FauxH's experience about low quality prints from Mars 5 U is cause of he only tried it with RERF and not about low UV transmittance.Its just maybe.
Its a great idea to test FH's UV transmittance hypothesis but if he is right 9k screens just doomed again 12k screens no matter the micron size advantage they have.Coz u can turn UV transmittance down but not up.
Reading what u say about tilting mechanism lowering print quality is just horrible.dont even know what to say i thought ill buy S4U or M5U now i have no idea.
Which machine do you suggest has best print quality in those price range? or should i wait 1 more year maybe.
Thank you for your reply🙏
@@canalpan9 Ah ok, well I have the S3U and the S4U and the conversation is exaclty the same. I'm doing a LOT of prints ATM and I will release my full review soon.
For now, I've published a LOT of data on these printers if you have not, Join the Lychee Discord where I post it ahead of any review. I will also try to make more shorts of the process to keep people updated while I work on the main video. This is not my main job so it takes me 10x the time as others to make a single 16min video.
For now, for a medium sized printer would recomend the Revo, M7Pro or the GK2. That's about it...
I'm new to 3D printing so is this a good thing or a bad thing?
@@BlueBirdGTV It doesn't work is the take away.
the vendor settings are nothelpfull if you print 0.02 or 0.025 so its a god sent its also esay just make cones of cali. 8x form 1,2-2,1 sec then do the one you think is good and make it again just this setting ...
@@dasdasdadsa5910 When you calibrate using cones. What are you actually calibrated to?
Let me ask in another way. If I made three versions of cones. One where all the top cones are 5% larger forcing you to increase your UV exposure to make them print. Another 5% smaller forcing you to lower your UV exposure to print.
What version is the correct exposure and why?
V3 ? Not shure if it is 3 but the newest it has a xy test and a z to xy test in it kinda need
@@dasdasdadsa5910 V3 took my entire concept of Boxes of Calibration. That I Developed when I was 1 of only 3 Admins at Tff discord. What is funny is that this was done after I was kicked from TFF discord for saying that Cones was flawed.
So if they are not flawed, why was my design and my work required?
Oh wow that’s bad ! Why do we humans need to fuck up others all the time … whot exposure test would you recommend for mini printing I found for me the cones are better because the flat ones are good for xy but don’t resemble supports well
@@dasdasdadsa5910 I don't know, this one really hit me hard after how much I gave to them.
I made Boxes of Calibration back in 2022. I've tested them on every single pre-supporter I can, persionaly over 30 resins + many many more mixes. Plus thousands of others. They work great for minis or massive prints, Wax, ABS or even engineering resin. What's best is that it's a way to print at perfect accuracy while also maintaining the most strength your resin can offer.
You will find them here:
docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit#bookmark=kix.cq1i76pon3wz
I also recomend givng this a read:
sites.google.com/j3dtech.com/calibrate/home