A very informative and maintenance lesson in making your guitar music to your ear n friendly to your finger...definitely one of the best video in TH-cam 🎉
Just wanted to say thank you for your excellent tutorials. I have just set the action and swapped out the plastic nut and saddle for bone replacements on my 20 year old "cheapy" Westfield acoustic I've had since I was 15. The difference in playability and tone is nothing short of remarkable. Those who are thinking of doing this to their instruments I say have a go! Be methodical, take your time and study GCH Academy's videos closely you won't go wrong! Thank you again for your hard work in creating these fantastic videos.
@@guitar-academy I'm currently awaiting on the arrival of my new PRS electro acoustic so thought in the meantime I'll have a play around with the old Westfield. It's now got Grover machine heads too, worth more than the entire guitar but got them at a great price! The results of the bone nut and saddle have transformed it the tone is so much brighter and now the action is where it needs to be plays like a guitar 10 times its value! All thanks to your brilliant videos!
Thank you so much, I am a beginner. These tips and explanations will give me the knowledge that I didn't have before, so purchasing a guitar now gives me things I can ask and look for before spending money and time unnecessarily. I am deeply in your debt. I appreciate the time and effort you have shown me kind sir. A follower for life. Bravo
Great video, yes I'm just an old guy and these videos are very informative, so that's what I do just because I can, got the tools, and the difference it makes is quite incredible
Great video, very detailed, which is great. I will say, that I saw a neat trick from a Gibson tech video on this subject for acoustic steel string guitars. He only detuned the strings, then pulled the pegs up (with a peg puller), and left the strings in place on the head, but just coiled up the strings towards the head/nut. When repegging after modifying the saddle, it was much easier and faster, not having to deal with re-threading the eyes of the keys
Fantastic videos; simple to follow and bullet-proof because the methods are so logical. I watched a ton of YTs that went into absolute measurements at different frets, with no explanation of what we're trying to achieve - 'monkey-see monkey-do', and "if that doesn't work you might wanna try adjusting your truss rod to get your string to the right height". I've done 2 entry-level acoustics now, a $400 Yamaha and latterly a $100 Fender which I bought as a cheap travel guitar; the fender sounds gorgeous, better than the Yamaha. I made my mistakes on the Yamaha, primarily not sanding the new saddle and nut carefully enough - I did them by eye and later I used a solid stainless engineer's square to examine them, both were off. I'm in the process of replacing again, hence watching the video again. So for the Fender I sanded by holding the saddle/nut against the square and went VERY slowly over a large, dead flat, piece of 120 wet/dry I pinned to my work-bench. Probably took me an extra couple of hours but the result was magnificent; the sound from the Fender is wonderful to my ear and is a joy to play, low action and no buzz. My F-barre chord has gone from unplayable to easy-peasy.
Top class channel wat information unbelievable people are paying a fortune for subscription that are not as half as informative as this channel thank you much appreciated
Thank you for this very detailed video. From the limited time working on guitars and basic info I know about this type work on acoustics I’d say you don’t miss a thing in the process. I’m retired from the military and your video reminds me of military instruction where (...most times anyway) nothing is missed in teaching a maintenance process. I’ll check your site further to see if you have an acoustic nut height adjustment video and intonation video too as that could be very helpful to me too. I’ll also see what you have on electric guitar set up and other videos. Your videos I’ve seen in past are always very detailed, you give options such as with tools to use and your videos are easy to follow. Much appreciated! Cheers 💥💥💥⚡️🎸
Great info sir! I have a problem with the saddle. I bought a used guitar, it had an odd B string that didnt match the others, obviously replaced. When I removed all the strings i noticed the saddle rocks backward and forward in the slot. It's obviously too thin and doesnt fit tight. I suspect this affects tone quality. The action is too high as well. The neck nut seems fine dimensionally however I suspect it's plastic. I've ordered a new nut, saddle and your video was just what I needed to guide me through the process of replacing hese substandard components. Thank you for taking the time to make such informative videos.
Old interesting and very informative Vid, Some info, I bought a Chinese navy blue, Electro acoustic Cutaway guitar, off UK bay. Sold under the Tiger brand. Bought on the19.12.23. £55 posted. I was very surprised at the quality. The action was high, I went through the exact same steps. Neck relief sorted, I had to take 3mm off. the saddle, Just in case I made a mistake. I bought a pair of bone saddles of UK amazon £6 posted, next day delivery 21.12.2023, . I didn't remove the strings at the headstock I loosened them just enough to remove the pins. But before removing pins I put a capo on the 1st fret.. Then wound the strings out of the way. I used a very thin marker pen, to mark off 3mm. Then I used a Multi tool, with the sander attachment, rough grit, finishing off with wet and dry. To finish off, I used the same method you did, but a lot quicker, Final result, Just over 1.5mm. Bottom E, and just over 1mm top, and no buzzing frets
@@guitar-academy It was brand new, sold as a package, by DJM Music an actual English retailer, Padded gig bag spare set of strings. There's still a couple on the bay at £59 posted. There normally £110-£129, I think there old stock that need to be sold to make way for new, Gear4Musice sell the exact same guitar with a slightly different shaped head stock BTW, You're vid was reassurance I'd set my guitar up correctly 👍😊
If the guitar pegs don’t go in all the way in on the bridge because of their size does that affect the playability of the guitar and how would I fix that problem?
Good question. It depends on how far the pegs go in and why they don't fit. If they're new then you might need to sand them slightly, if they did fit then they might be out of order try changing the order. As long as they don't stick out too far the guitar should play OK . . I hope this helps 😊😀
If after you replace strings and find you need to lower the bridge or address a fret. Leave the capo on the first fret , Loosen the strings, pull the pegs, sand the bridge or file the fret, return the strings and pegs, check height.
This is super helpful. Thanks. The thoroughness and clarity of this video are supported by the excellent lighting and camera work. Question: what happens to the intonation when lowering the saddle? Can intonation be maintained?
Most of the time the intonation remains the same. But if you're changing the strings, try to keep the gauge the same as Changing the gauge of strings can effect the intonation 🤔
Thank you very much for your videos they are priceless for me, I'm restoring my father old guitar for his birthday, he got it when he was 13th he is 60 now its an holiday, apparently a cheap one so improvement like this will make a huge difference I have a question though whats your recommended heigh (14:48) for a classical guitar ?? wondefurl videos best D
A true classical guitar doesn't have a truss rod so you're at the mercy of the guitar but some of that age have a truss rod and they called it 'a steel reinforced neck'. If you do have a truss rod and you can get the neck relief good you should be able to get about 3mm on the thick string and 4mm on the thick string. A nylon strung guitar has an action at least 1mm higher than steel strung guitars. 😊
It's an Allegro and it's somewhere in the fingerpicking course but I'm not sure where. Here's the fingerpicking course th-cam.com/play/PLIQJcXCYbgO2q9hDUBT0E5z1JZDk3bowI.html
Thanks, very informative. I have a similar cheap "western" guitar with the strings on the lower part of the neck way to high compared to my Fender Stratocaster and Gibson Les Paul (yes, I put some money in these ones ;-). But it seems that the saddle of my guitar is already very low, it seems to me that it has not much room for taking of some more. So I would have to lower the whole bridge, and that would be a totally other project.
Yes, that sounds like a pain in the neck. It is a big job removing the bridge, lowering it and resetting it in place. You can improve the guitar by taking the saddle down as low as it'll go, make sure the nut isn't too high and make sure the neck relief is good, but this might not be enough. In some cases you can groove the bridge under the strings, but I need to do a video on this because I couldn't explain it here. 🤔
@@guitar-academy Hi, thanks for your answer! It seems to me that these types of guitars are meant to be played based solely on the notes at the top of the neck. And I often see that in practice. My guitar is of reasonable quality, but the manufacturer has not paid attention to string adjustment at all (in my opinion). But looking at the standard height measurements your are mentioning in your video, these are basically higher then what we see with electric guitars. I don't know if I can expect to play these acoustic guitars like the electric ones.
@@johanwithag2432 I agree, electric and acoustic guitars are very different animals. You also find that generally the strings are thicker on acoustic guitars. This also makes them more difficult to play. 🤔
Thanks for all your great videos. Very helpful and well done. I lowered the saddle height by 1mm per your video, but when I removed the capo, the action height increased by half of what I removed. What does that mean? Do I need to deepen the nut slots and if so, have you got a video?😅
I haven't done a nut adjustment video yet because to adjust the nut you have to be very precise it is easy to get it wrong. Also the tools to do this (properly) can cost more than cheap guitar 🤔
I ended up leaving the nut alone since the string height towards the neck seemed ok. I just kept sanding the saddle down little by little on my belt sander, and it was quick work. I used your remove 2x the desired change at saddle technique, but for some reason, it removed less than what I wanted. Better too little than too much, and it was good practice.
Great video! Beginner here. May I ask why the capo is used to take the nut action out of the equation? What if the nut is influencing the action more than the saddle. For a beginner, I spend most of my time on the frets closer to the nut….shouldn’t I verify how “off” the nut is before moving to the saddle adjustment. Again, awesome video.
Thank you . . good question. The nut adjustment is far harder that a saddle adjustment and to do it properly requires expensive tools, so I don't cover that yet. With TH-cam reaching all sorts of people I don't want to risk someone ruining there guitar by attempting something beyond their capabilities. 😊😀
@@guitar-academy I definitely understand. The nut adjustment is not something I would want to tackle. I am trying to determine if a person checks the relief on the saddle end and determines the saddle needs lowered….but checking the nut relief end tells a person that I am never going to get there without a nut adjustment only…..at that time the guitar is headed toward a tech. I am trying to predict the impact on the nut end by lowering the saddle. I am assuming this would be negligible. I need to do more thinking on this.
leant allot from here . however , what about this distance of the stings at the nut ? Also I found stings play and resonate better when sat on the groove/ slot of the nut then in it as you still may get a buss on the B and E string .
I haven't covered the nut yet because to do it properly takes special tools that are expensive and for most people it would be a waste of money, It sound to me like you guitar needs a new nut . . 🤔
Thank you very much! I was just wondering, though, how to assess the truss rod with the second method starting at 8:30 (pushing down the strings on the first fret and on the sound hole ...). I did not understand what the criteria for a good distance was in this case ... is it under 1 mm like in the first method?
@@guitar-academy Thank you! Middle of the neck is about the 6th or 7th fret, I assume? (so the whole of the neck being the part till it meets the body of the guitar ...)
An excellent, extremely detailed video .... thanks Gareth. Have the best Christmas possible, let's hope the New Year gets better (it cannot get any worse ... could it??).
Thanks, you too! Yes, it's getting old now and I haven't been able to teach any of my private students since April. When it all unlocks I'll have to start again from scratch . . Have a really great Christmas and New Year Phil . . ✨✨✨
The only consideration I can think of is to make absolutely sure the bottom of the saddle is flat if you sand it to lower the action. If the saddle is uneven on the bottom you'll have loader and quieter strings as a result . . 😊
What fret do you measure the string height? I notice on low E you measured between 2nd and 3rd Fret from the body and high E you measured just past the 3rd fret (from the body).
If your saddle has a compensating string slot, that is usually the 'B' or ''G' string and should be on the thin string end. If the saddle is slightly tapered you want the side that makes the strings longer on the bass side and the side that makes the strings shorter on the top 'E' side. I hope this helps
Without capo on 1st fret my guitar action on low e seems quite high, around 2.9-3mm. With capo though the number is much better, around 2.1-2.2mm. I have my neck adjusted to the point where it doesn't buzz at the fifth fret. Now I am confused about few things. Should i still worry about my guitar action being quite high without capo? If yes what should i look into adjusting? My confusion comes from watching a lot of videos where they recommend height distance under 2.5mm but they dont measure while capoing the first fret. Sorry if i am overthinking it but i am really new to this. 😅
No you're not overthinking it. There's a lot of people doing tutorials who don't know what they're doing so it's good to question. Really the action can be what YOU want, not what somebody else says. I know people who like higher action that you have and play really, really well and my flamenco guitar that was hand made by a master luthier has an action close to 5 mm. To know for sure if there is a problem with your guitar I would really need to see the guitar and hold it. Another thing you can check is the height of the nut, but I haven't done a video on this yet because the tools needed are expensive and the adjustments are very small, so it's easy to get wrong. I'll speed up getting that video done 🤔
@@guitar-academy If i am remembering it right, in one of your videos you held third fret with a thumb and clicked on the first fret to check action at first fret and nut height, my strings at first fret seems to be touching the fret when i hold it at third fret.Not sure if that is a problem or not..Thanks for these videos though, don't really have any good luthiers in my city so these help a lot.
@@onewingedhawk6134 Yes that's right, or you can put a capo in fret 3 and look at the height of the string above the 1st fret. If it's nearly touching fret 1 then that's correct. Everything sounds OK on your guitar, but as I said previously it's so hard to know for sure without seeing it. 🤔🤔
I've been fitting these since before the internet and that's how we pronounced it back then before mass media made and the internet made things so much easier. I flick between the 2 pronunciations. 😊
Pro tip...keep the bone dust in a small glass jar. It'll come in handy if you need to fill a nut slot or void in the saddle. Jus a drop of CA glue and you're good
I have to do a video about classical guitar because they are awkward. You have to be very careful with the action on them because they don't have truss rods (most of the time) and this means the neck relief can't be easily adjusted. I tend to have keep a higher action on classical guitar, but a lot depends on the guitar. If it's your own guitar I would lower it a bit and then play it for a while and then lower it a bit more etc. until you reach a comfortable but buzz free action.
12:54 why nut should not have an effect in considering the action height at 12th fret?..many videos shows the action at 12 the fret without keeping a capo at 1st fret?
Sorry to be blunt but the other videos are wrong . . too many people on TH-cam are making videos and they're not trained luthiers. You have to have one fixed point in order to make any accurate adjustment and the nut is not a good fixed point because that might need adjusting as well. If you don't use a capo and the nut is too high, when you lower the saddle the guitar will never play properly because the stings will be at the wrong angle. If you lower the saddle and get the action correct and then take the capo off and the action goes up, then you know that the nut needs adjusting as well.
@@guitar-academy ohh thanks a lot for making me understand,well suppose if I have a brand new guitar just bought and wanna check the action of the guitar..and also in the beginning don't wanna make any adjustments is it necessary for me to fret the first fret and then check the action or do I directly check the actual height at the 12th fret without fretting the first fret?
@@guitar-academy thank you so much for your help, your tutorial is the best in entire TH-cam ,easy to understand and easy to follow too.. If something is understandable than only the question arises. I'll check my action without fretting first as I have brand new guitar and it has a Tusq nut and saddle...they are quite expensive here in our guitar store in India...so I'll play the guitar for few days and if I feel the action needs adjustment I'll definitely follow your instructions in the video...and if some questions arises I'll be commenting here... Thanks a lot again.....
You can buy a special tool to grip onto a worm or damaged nut, sadly I don't know what it's called but it's the soft of thing you buy from car tool shops and online stores. Hopefully someone will see your comment and know what it's called . . 😊
@@guitar-academy Haha I watched another video and was listening carefully and yes it was very close but there was some tiny differences between you and him. I only bring this up because I feel you two have very good voices for these videos. Thanks again for making these!
Better than taking the strings completely off is to loosen the strings and simply pull the bridge pins thus letting loose the strings without removing them from the head stock.
16:43 I broke my new high E shortly before he said that you should adjust with your old ones. I guess I'm keeping my old string... shoot. Edit: broke the old one too...
Well probably the only thing not being clear is what to do if you measure the action on the 6th string - let's say 3mm, then the 1st string 1.75mm. If my goal is to reach 2.50mm on the 6th string then the action on the 1st string will be below the suggested height. And this is what happened with me, I've got a lovely 2.5mm on the low E string, but my high E became 1mm.
You have to sand very carefully . . or you can get a special tool to get the correct angle on the bottom of the saddle but it is very expensive, so it would be cheaper to take the guitar to a luthier. At least a replacement saddle is very cheap, so it's not the end of the world.
@@petere7810 To be clear I could do with illustrating this visually, but what I mean is . . you can sand the saddle evenly but at an angle. I hope this helps . . 😊
@GCH Have you had an opportunity to progress on a video for fret adjustment? I have found an appreciation for your method of presentation. New sub. Thank you.
@@guitar-academy Thank you. I put together a list of tools required to do the work and, with your guidance and my past experience I'm confident I can do the job. I purchased a new "Seagull S-6" and the action is very high. I don't have ready access to a luthier so, look's like I'm on my own... It does have some good woods and I can hear the tones that want to come forward, just needs TLC.
@@donhammer186 even the best or most expensive guitars need a little love or personalization. Once you've done one successfully you'll be a guitar setup ninja . . 😊😊
No you don't. . . Watch 12:50 again where I explain that I have taken the nut out of the equation by putting a capo in the first fret. I don't adjust the nut in this video because it's a beginners lesson and the nut is far more difficult to adjust and if you need to recut the slots for example it can cost you over £100 just for the tools.
..that B.G music is VERY distracting........Classical....or Fernando Sor. would be more appropriate.,.,.... but you videos are MAGNIFICENT. !! VERYT useful. many thanks for a very fine job. !!
YEAH another good video, never thought about these things.... happier intro and back track wouldn't be bad either. KEEP THESE VIDEOS GOIN! we need more :) Also you could push some more ads between to earn that good youtube adrevenue lol :D I wouldn't mind lol Can you also please but link Amazon for example of what you are using on your video.
Great video. Quick question, most videos and forums suggest to measure the string height at the 12th Fret without a Capo. I see you use one. I’m confused, which is the right way to get the most accurate measurement?
if you know your nut is the correct height then you can do the adjustment without the capo, but if the capo is un adjusted then use a capo. Don't get too carried away with the measurements. it's how the guitar feels and plays that's important.
You can find Part 2 here - how to cure fret buzz th-cam.com/video/8BSmoehj7sQ/w-d-xo.html
2, or 3, 64ths of a gap is nothing to worry about then and would be optimal?
Well done & very professional!! Learned a lot!! THANKS
@@clanza2024 Thank you, very much 😊😃
Great explanation of why we take the saddle down by 2x. Finally it is clear to me. Thanks.
You are welcome! thank you very much 😊😀
By far, best tutorial. Very scholastic, detailed, logic. Really impressed. Chapeau bas, Monsieur !
That's really nice of you . . thank you very much 😊😃
absorbing all the detailed close up footages actually makes feel more confident about doing all that myself, thank you for video.
Thank you very much . . 😊😀
Me too
@@jasonmathers that's great 😊😊
A very informative and maintenance lesson in making your guitar music to your ear n friendly to your finger...definitely one of the best video in TH-cam 🎉
thank you very much 😊😃
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! You present the material in a clear concise manner. I learned so much, truly grateful.
your welcome . . I'm really glad the information is useful . . thank you 😊😃
Just wanted to say thank you for your excellent tutorials. I have just set the action and swapped out the plastic nut and saddle for bone replacements on my 20 year old "cheapy" Westfield acoustic I've had since I was 15. The difference in playability and tone is nothing short of remarkable. Those who are thinking of doing this to their instruments I say have a go! Be methodical, take your time and study GCH Academy's videos closely you won't go wrong! Thank you again for your hard work in creating these fantastic videos.
Thank you very much . . it's really great you've had such resounding success with your guitar. great stuff 😊
@@guitar-academy I'm currently awaiting on the arrival of my new PRS electro acoustic so thought in the meantime I'll have a play around with the old Westfield. It's now got Grover machine heads too, worth more than the entire guitar but got them at a great price! The results of the bone nut and saddle have transformed it the tone is so much brighter and now the action is where it needs to be plays like a guitar 10 times its value! All thanks to your brilliant videos!
Super educational video - lot of small and bigger things what you can do by yourself now. Thank you and greetings from Estonia !
Glad you enjoyed it! nice to hear from Estonia, I think that's a first 😃
Thanks for correcting that diagram regarding removing a bow or a hum.
Thank you . . it had to be done 😊😃
Thank you so much, I am a beginner. These tips and explanations will give me the knowledge that I didn't have before, so purchasing a guitar now gives me things I can ask and look for before spending money and time unnecessarily. I am deeply in your debt. I appreciate the time and effort you have shown me kind sir. A follower for life. Bravo
Thank you very much . . your comment is really encouraging . . 😊😀
Great video, yes I'm just an old guy and these videos are very informative, so that's what I do just because I can, got the tools, and the difference it makes is quite incredible
Thank you . . . it's a great sense of achievement to be able to improve something like a guitar . . . 😊😀
Just seen your video and I learn so much. I personally want to thank you. So much knowledge in this video. Ty…
That's great . . thank you very much 😊😃
excellently presented this will give me confidence to tackle such simple but essential tasks well done sir
Thank you very much . . yes you're right, it isn't hard really it just takes a little confidence. 😊😃
Great video, very detailed, which is great. I will say, that I saw a neat trick from a Gibson tech video on this subject for acoustic steel string guitars. He only detuned the strings, then pulled the pegs up (with a peg puller), and left the strings in place on the head, but just coiled up the strings towards the head/nut. When repegging after modifying the saddle, it was much easier and faster, not having to deal with re-threading the eyes of the keys
great tip . . . thank you 😊😃
for the first time , a simple and clear how to setup an acoustic guitar ..thank you😊
Glad you found it helpful . . thank you 😊😀
Excellent tutorial and visual demonstration.
Glad you liked it! thank you 😊😃
Best video I've seen on this, thanks. Trying to set up an ovation at the mo and this makes the process accessible. Great stuff
Awesome, thank you! 😊
Excellent tutorial! Your presentation is clear and concise. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! thank you very much 😊😃
Beautifully presented. Explanations so clear and detailed. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful! thank you 😊😊
Fantastic videos; simple to follow and bullet-proof because the methods are so logical. I watched a ton of YTs that went into absolute measurements at different frets, with no explanation of what we're trying to achieve - 'monkey-see monkey-do', and "if that doesn't work you might wanna try adjusting your truss rod to get your string to the right height". I've done 2 entry-level acoustics now, a $400 Yamaha and latterly a $100 Fender which I bought as a cheap travel guitar; the fender sounds gorgeous, better than the Yamaha.
I made my mistakes on the Yamaha, primarily not sanding the new saddle and nut carefully enough - I did them by eye and later I used a solid stainless engineer's square to examine them, both were off. I'm in the process of replacing again, hence watching the video again.
So for the Fender I sanded by holding the saddle/nut against the square and went VERY slowly over a large, dead flat, piece of 120 wet/dry I pinned to my work-bench. Probably took me an extra couple of hours but the result was magnificent; the sound from the Fender is wonderful to my ear and is a joy to play, low action and no buzz. My F-barre chord has gone from unplayable to easy-peasy.
Great stuff . . It's amazing how a little work on the setup can make what seems to be impossible, possible (the F chord) 😊😀
Top class channel wat information unbelievable people are paying a fortune for subscription that are not as half as informative as this channel thank you much appreciated
Much appreciated! thank you very much 😊😃
Thank you for this very detailed video. From the limited time working on guitars and basic info I know about this type work on acoustics I’d say you don’t miss a thing in the process. I’m retired from the military and your video reminds me of military instruction where (...most times anyway) nothing is missed in teaching a maintenance process. I’ll check your site further to see if you have an acoustic nut height adjustment video and intonation video too as that could be very helpful to me too. I’ll also see what you have on electric guitar set up and other videos. Your videos I’ve seen in past are always very detailed, you give options such as with tools to use and your videos are easy to follow.
Much appreciated! Cheers 💥💥💥⚡️🎸
Thank you very much . . your comment is really very encouraging . . 😊😊
Great info sir! I have a problem with the saddle. I bought a used guitar, it had an odd B string that didnt match the others, obviously replaced. When I removed all the strings i noticed the saddle rocks backward and forward in the slot. It's obviously too thin and doesnt fit tight. I suspect this affects tone quality. The action is too high as well. The neck nut seems fine dimensionally however I suspect it's plastic. I've ordered a new nut, saddle and your video was just what I needed to guide me through the process of replacing hese substandard components.
Thank you for taking the time to make such informative videos.
I hope your guitar gets sorted with the new parts. It's a great feeling when you get a dodgy instrument and make it nice for yourself 😊😀
Old interesting and very informative Vid, Some info, I bought a Chinese navy blue, Electro acoustic Cutaway guitar, off UK bay. Sold under the Tiger brand. Bought on the19.12.23. £55 posted. I was very surprised at the quality. The action was high, I went through the exact same steps. Neck relief sorted, I had to take 3mm off. the saddle, Just in case I made a mistake. I bought a pair of bone saddles of UK amazon £6 posted, next day delivery 21.12.2023, .
I didn't remove the strings at the headstock I loosened them just enough to remove the pins. But before removing pins I put a capo on the 1st fret.. Then wound the strings out of the way. I used a very thin marker pen, to mark off 3mm. Then I used a Multi tool, with the sander attachment, rough grit, finishing off with wet and dry. To finish off, I used the same method you did, but a lot quicker, Final result, Just over 1.5mm. Bottom E, and just over 1mm top, and no buzzing frets
Very nice . . it sounds like you bought a bargain (once you set it up) 😊😀
@@guitar-academy It was brand new, sold as a package, by DJM Music an actual English retailer, Padded gig bag spare set of strings. There's still a couple on the bay at £59 posted. There normally £110-£129, I think there old stock that need to be sold to make way for new, Gear4Musice sell the exact same guitar with a slightly different shaped head stock
BTW, You're vid was reassurance I'd set my guitar up correctly 👍😊
All the way from Central Kenya,this is very helpful on knowhow about guitar knowledge
That's great . . Thank you very much 😊
This is what one must watch. We are enlightened 👍👍
lol . . thank you 😊😃
Very informative and comprehensive video, thanks a lot!
Glad you enjoyed it! thank you very much 😊😀
If the guitar pegs don’t go in all the way in on the bridge because of their size does that affect the playability of the guitar and how would I fix that problem?
Good question. It depends on how far the pegs go in and why they don't fit. If they're new then you might need to sand them slightly, if they did fit then they might be out of order try changing the order. As long as they don't stick out too far the guitar should play OK . . I hope this helps 😊😀
If after you replace strings and find you need to lower the bridge or address a fret. Leave the capo on the first fret , Loosen the strings, pull the pegs, sand the bridge or file the fret, return the strings and pegs, check height.
good tip . . 😊
Fantastic! Using your advice, I already adjusted the tress on my cheapo Ibenez, and sanded down the saddle too. 👍👍
That's great. . . Glad it helped!
This is super helpful. Thanks. The thoroughness and clarity of this video are supported by the excellent lighting and camera work. Question: what happens to the intonation when lowering the saddle? Can intonation be maintained?
Most of the time the intonation remains the same. But if you're changing the strings, try to keep the gauge the same as Changing the gauge of strings can effect the intonation 🤔
@@guitar-academy Thanks! I was hoping that would be the case. The easy intonation tweaks on electric guitars has my ears trained up.
very good lesson thanks
Thank you and thanks for watching 😊😀
Excellent tutorial. Thanks!
You're welcome! thank you for watching and commenting 😊😀
Excellent. Great detail to the smallest steps. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thank you 😊
Thank you, this is very informative and useful.
You're very welcome! thank you 😊😀
Thanks for the information !!!!
No problem! thank you 😊😀
Very through explanation. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it! thank you very much 😊😃
The best explanation for this topic😁.
Glad you liked it, thank you 😃
Thats excellent. Thank you .
You are welcome! thank you 😊😊
Thank you very much for your videos they are priceless for me,
I'm restoring my father old guitar for his birthday, he got it when he was 13th he is 60 now
its an holiday, apparently a cheap one so improvement like this will make a huge difference
I have a question though whats your recommended heigh (14:48) for a classical guitar ??
wondefurl videos
best
D
A true classical guitar doesn't have a truss rod so you're at the mercy of the guitar but some of that age have a truss rod and they called it 'a steel reinforced neck'. If you do have a truss rod and you can get the neck relief good you should be able to get about 3mm on the thick string and 4mm on the thick string. A nylon strung guitar has an action at least 1mm higher than steel strung guitars. 😊
It would be nice to have the final little arpeggio tab which is very nice.Anyway thanks
It's an Allegro and it's somewhere in the fingerpicking course but I'm not sure where. Here's the fingerpicking course th-cam.com/play/PLIQJcXCYbgO2q9hDUBT0E5z1JZDk3bowI.html
That was a fantastic tutorial and very well played. Can you please tell me what that piece is called. Thank you 👍
Thank you very much. 😃 the tune is Allegro (Op.50 No.13) by Mauro Giuliani
Thanks, very informative. I have a similar cheap "western" guitar with the strings on the lower part of the neck way to high compared to my Fender Stratocaster and Gibson Les Paul (yes, I put some money in these ones ;-). But it seems that the saddle of my guitar is already very low, it seems to me that it has not much room for taking of some more. So I would have to lower the whole bridge, and that would be a totally other project.
Yes, that sounds like a pain in the neck. It is a big job removing the bridge, lowering it and resetting it in place. You can improve the guitar by taking the saddle down as low as it'll go, make sure the nut isn't too high and make sure the neck relief is good, but this might not be enough. In some cases you can groove the bridge under the strings, but I need to do a video on this because I couldn't explain it here. 🤔
@@guitar-academy Hi, thanks for your answer! It seems to me that these types of guitars are meant to be played based solely on the notes at the top of the neck. And I often see that in practice. My guitar is of reasonable quality, but the manufacturer has not paid attention to string adjustment at all (in my opinion). But looking at the standard height measurements your are mentioning in your video, these are basically higher then what we see with electric guitars. I don't know if I can expect to play these acoustic guitars like the electric ones.
@@johanwithag2432 I agree, electric and acoustic guitars are very different animals. You also find that generally the strings are thicker on acoustic guitars. This also makes them more difficult to play. 🤔
this is an expensive lessons, thanks sir
thank you 😊
Thanks for all your great videos. Very helpful and well done. I lowered the saddle height by 1mm per your video, but when I removed the capo, the action height increased by half of what I removed. What does that mean? Do I need to deepen the nut slots and if so, have you got a video?😅
I haven't done a nut adjustment video yet because to adjust the nut you have to be very precise it is easy to get it wrong. Also the tools to do this (properly) can cost more than cheap guitar 🤔
I ended up leaving the nut alone since the string height towards the neck seemed ok. I just kept sanding the saddle down little by little on my belt sander, and it was quick work. I used your remove 2x the desired change at saddle technique, but for some reason, it removed less than what I wanted. Better too little than too much, and it was good practice.
@@flppr1 Yes, that's a really important bit of advice you give there 'better too little than too much' 👍👍
Thank you very much for teaching.🥰🌹
You’re welcome 😊 thank you
Great video!
Beginner here. May I ask why the capo is used to take the nut action out of the equation? What if the nut is influencing the action more than the saddle. For a beginner, I spend most of my time on the frets closer to the nut….shouldn’t I verify how “off” the nut is before moving to the saddle adjustment.
Again, awesome video.
Thank you . . good question. The nut adjustment is far harder that a saddle adjustment and to do it properly requires expensive tools, so I don't cover that yet. With TH-cam reaching all sorts of people I don't want to risk someone ruining there guitar by attempting something beyond their capabilities. 😊😀
@@guitar-academy I definitely understand. The nut adjustment is not something I would want to tackle.
I am trying to determine if a person checks the relief on the saddle end and determines the saddle needs lowered….but checking the nut relief end tells a person that I am never going to get there without a nut adjustment only…..at that time the guitar is headed toward a tech.
I am trying to predict the impact on the nut end by lowering the saddle. I am assuming this would be negligible. I need to do more thinking on this.
gch guitar academy is my best learn chanel .
that's great, thank you very much 😊
leant allot from here . however , what about this distance of the stings at the nut ? Also I found stings play and resonate better when sat on the groove/ slot of the nut then in it as you still may get a buss on the B and E string .
I haven't covered the nut yet because to do it properly takes special tools that are expensive and for most people it would be a waste of money, It sound to me like you guitar needs a new nut . . 🤔
Thank you very much! I was just wondering, though, how to assess the truss rod with the second method starting at 8:30 (pushing down the strings on the first fret and on the sound hole ...). I did not understand what the criteria for a good distance was in this case ... is it under 1 mm like in the first method?
Yes, exactly. Look near the middle of the neck and check the gap isn't too big or that the strings aren't pressing against the strings. 😊
@@guitar-academy Thank you! Middle of the neck is about the 6th or 7th fret, I assume? (so the whole of the neck being the part till it meets the body of the guitar ...)
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS INFORMATIVE VIDEO 👍👍👍🙏
My pleasure, thank you . . 😊😊
Who did the music in the middle of the video. He said it but I didn't understand what he said. Thank you. Great video by the way.
Thank you very much . . the tune in the middle is 'I love you by sad fantasy'.
Here it isth-cam.com/video/X-_wAccH8AE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=x89Bpu8COxPECYOS
Just Excellent … thanks
Glad you enjoyed it . . thank you 😊😃
Very nice info Sir
So nice of you, thank you 😊
An excellent, extremely detailed video .... thanks Gareth. Have the best Christmas possible, let's hope the New Year gets better (it cannot get any worse ... could it??).
Thanks, you too! Yes, it's getting old now and I haven't been able to teach any of my private students since April. When it all unlocks I'll have to start again from scratch . . Have a really great Christmas and New Year Phil . . ✨✨✨
What was the name of the music clip?
that was Allegro (Op.50 No.13) by Mauro Giuliani 😊
@@guitar-academy Thanks 😀
@@guitar-academy No. The music clip called I Love You. By who?
@@malcolmjamesturner Ah . . you mean this one th-cam.com/video/UQx64MXhqsY/w-d-xo.html Sad Fantasy
@@guitar-academy yes! It's brilliant. I'm a guitarist, that's why I'm asking. Thank you 😀
Hi, great video. I have a question, are there any considerations if the guitar/saddle has a built in preamp? Thanks.
The only consideration I can think of is to make absolutely sure the bottom of the saddle is flat if you sand it to lower the action. If the saddle is uneven on the bottom you'll have loader and quieter strings as a result . . 😊
What fret do you measure the string height? I notice on low E you measured between 2nd and 3rd Fret from the body and high E you measured just past the 3rd fret (from the body).
All the action hieght measurements are done on the 12th fret, because it's exactly halfway down the length of the string. I hope this helps. 😊👍
Which is the right side of the saddle please ive been watching your set up video but couldnt get which is thr right and wrong side
If your saddle has a compensating string slot, that is usually the 'B' or ''G' string and should be on the thin string end. If the saddle is slightly tapered you want the side that makes the strings longer on the bass side and the side that makes the strings shorter on the top 'E' side.
I hope this helps
Without capo on 1st fret my guitar action on low e seems quite high, around 2.9-3mm. With capo though the number is much better, around 2.1-2.2mm.
I have my neck adjusted to the point where it doesn't buzz at the fifth fret. Now I am confused about few things. Should i still worry about my guitar action being quite high without capo? If yes what should i look into adjusting?
My confusion comes from watching a lot of videos where they recommend height distance under 2.5mm but they dont measure while capoing the first fret.
Sorry if i am overthinking it but i am really new to this. 😅
No you're not overthinking it. There's a lot of people doing tutorials who don't know what they're doing so it's good to question. Really the action can be what YOU want, not what somebody else says. I know people who like higher action that you have and play really, really well and my flamenco guitar that was hand made by a master luthier has an action close to 5 mm.
To know for sure if there is a problem with your guitar I would really need to see the guitar and hold it. Another thing you can check is the height of the nut, but I haven't done a video on this yet because the tools needed are expensive and the adjustments are very small, so it's easy to get wrong. I'll speed up getting that video done 🤔
@@guitar-academy If i am remembering it right, in one of your videos you held third fret with a thumb and clicked on the first fret to check action at first fret and nut height, my strings at first fret seems to be touching the fret when i hold it at third fret.Not sure if that is a problem or not..Thanks for these videos though, don't really have any good luthiers in my city so these help a lot.
@@onewingedhawk6134 Yes that's right, or you can put a capo in fret 3 and look at the height of the string above the 1st fret. If it's nearly touching fret 1 then that's correct.
Everything sounds OK on your guitar, but as I said previously it's so hard to know for sure without seeing it. 🤔🤔
@@guitar-academy Thanks, this kinda puts my mind to rest a bit, kinda gets overwhelming at the start.
@@onewingedhawk6134 agreed . . it does get overwhelming 😊
Very understanding there sir thxz 👍😎👌🎸🎼
That's great, thank you . . 😊
Thank you 👍
You're welcome, thank you
A very clear bit of instruction. I feel a bit mean in correcting yourpronunciation of 'piezo.' It's three syllables pee - aye - zho.
I've been fitting these since before the internet and that's how we pronounced it back then before mass media made and the internet made things so much easier. I flick between the 2 pronunciations. 😊
Pro tip...keep the bone dust in a small glass jar. It'll come in handy if you need to fill a nut slot or void in the saddle. Jus a drop of CA glue and you're good
great tip . . I use super glue because it sets so quickly and hard 😊
Thanks for the informative series of videos. Are your recommended action height also applicable to classical guitars? Thanks.
I have to do a video about classical guitar because they are awkward. You have to be very careful with the action on them because they don't have truss rods (most of the time) and this means the neck relief can't be easily adjusted. I tend to have keep a higher action on classical guitar, but a lot depends on the guitar. If it's your own guitar I would lower it a bit and then play it for a while and then lower it a bit more etc. until you reach a comfortable but buzz free action.
12:54 why nut should not have an effect in considering the action height at 12th fret?..many videos shows the action at 12 the fret without keeping a capo at 1st fret?
Sorry to be blunt but the other videos are wrong . . too many people on TH-cam are making videos and they're not trained luthiers.
You have to have one fixed point in order to make any accurate adjustment and the nut is not a good fixed point because that might need adjusting as well.
If you don't use a capo and the nut is too high, when you lower the saddle the guitar will never play properly because the stings will be at the wrong angle.
If you lower the saddle and get the action correct and then take the capo off and the action goes up, then you know that the nut needs adjusting as well.
@@guitar-academy ohh thanks a lot for making me understand,well suppose if I have a brand new guitar just bought and wanna check the action of the guitar..and also in the beginning don't wanna make any adjustments is it necessary for me to fret the first fret and then check the action or do I directly check the actual height at the 12th fret without fretting the first fret?
@@dhavalparmar4472 No problem with that, just check it as it is, no need to fret the first fret . . 😊
@@guitar-academy thank you so much for your help, your tutorial is the best in entire TH-cam ,easy to understand and easy to follow too..
If something is understandable than only the question arises.
I'll check my action without fretting first as I have brand new guitar and it has a Tusq nut and saddle...they are quite expensive here in our guitar store in India...so I'll play the guitar for few days and if I feel the action needs adjustment I'll definitely follow your instructions in the video...and if some questions arises I'll be commenting here...
Thanks a lot again.....
@@dhavalparmar4472 Thank you very much . . Hopefully your guitar wont need any adjustment at all . . 😊😊
Hello my acoustic guitar trust rod nut is worn out n cannot rotate the nuts is there any solution without replacing the trust rod ....
You can buy a special tool to grip onto a worm or damaged nut, sadly I don't know what it's called but it's the soft of thing you buy from car tool shops and online stores. Hopefully someone will see your comment and know what it's called . . 😊
@@guitar-academy Thank u
What is the sanding block product you've got? is it literally sandpaper wrapped around a block or one that's come pre-made so to speak? thanks
It is actually a pre-made tool, but anything you know is flat will do. I also use a piece of stone I got as a sample of kitchen surface shop . . 😊
@@guitar-academy thanks
very good thx
your voice sounds very familiar do you make videos on other topics?
spooky . . No I don't do other topics, just guitar . . 😊
@@guitar-academy Haha I watched another video and was listening carefully and yes it was very close but there was some tiny differences between you and him. I only bring this up because I feel you two have very good voices for these videos. Thanks again for making these!
@@-mike-8134 Thank you very much . . 😊😊
Just one quick question, if u capo the first fret, the action height shouldn't be that high, or did i miss sth?
If you measure the action with a capo in the 1st fret then you're prevention any issues with the nut effecting the measurement. 😊😊
Might seem a silly guestion, do you still check the action height at the 12th fret on a 12 fret parlour?
everyone has there own method, but I do . . because I like to double check it with the harmonics at the 12th fret 😊
@@guitar-academy
Many thanks for the reply.
@@kimballard8362 no problem 😊
Thank You..
You're welcome . . thank you 😊😀
Thank you and have a very safe and Merry Xmas holiday period.
Thank you too, and stay safe . . it's going to be a strange Christmas this year isn't it . .
Awesome video Gareth keep up the great work .......very helpful, all the best !
Thanks very much . . have a great year 😊
Bravo!!!
Thank you 😊
Thanks!
No problem! thank you 😊
Better than taking the strings completely off is to loosen the strings and simply pull the bridge pins thus letting loose the strings without removing them from the head stock.
Yes, that works. 😊
16:43 I broke my new high E shortly before he said that you should adjust with your old ones. I guess I'm keeping my old string... shoot.
Edit: broke the old one too...
It's sounds like your having a bad day . . I have those too . . 😒
@@guitar-academy ah, it's not too bad. Just delays progress. Such is life.
Well probably the only thing not being clear is what to do if you measure the action on the 6th string - let's say 3mm, then the 1st string 1.75mm. If my goal is to reach 2.50mm on the 6th string then the action on the 1st string will be below the suggested height. And this is what happened with me, I've got a lovely 2.5mm on the low E string, but my high E became 1mm.
You have to sand very carefully . . or you can get a special tool to get the correct angle on the bottom of the saddle but it is very expensive, so it would be cheaper to take the guitar to a luthier. At least a replacement saddle is very cheap, so it's not the end of the world.
@@guitar-academy thanks! Are you implying that you can sand the saddle unevenly on a purpose?
@@petere7810 To be clear I could do with illustrating this visually, but what I mean is . . you can sand the saddle evenly but at an angle. I hope this helps . . 😊
@GCH Have you had an opportunity to progress on a video for fret adjustment? I have found an appreciation for your method of presentation. New sub.
Thank you.
thank you very much . . here is one I've done on fret buzz/adjustment th-cam.com/video/8BSmoehj7sQ/w-d-xo.html
@@guitar-academy Thank you. I put together a list of tools required to do the work and, with your guidance and my past experience I'm confident I can do the job. I purchased a new "Seagull S-6" and the action is very high. I don't have ready access to a luthier so, look's like I'm on my own... It does have some good woods and I can hear the tones that want to come forward, just needs TLC.
@@donhammer186 even the best or most expensive guitars need a little love or personalization. Once you've done one successfully you'll be a guitar setup ninja . . 😊😊
What happened to that nut! And before taking off hight of the saddle, you should check your nutheight first, or???
No you don't. . . Watch 12:50 again where I explain that I have taken the nut out of the equation by putting a capo in the first fret. I don't adjust the nut in this video because it's a beginners lesson and the nut is far more difficult to adjust and if you need to recut the slots for example it can cost you over £100 just for the tools.
I'm more interested from your lesson especially the basic.
th-cam.com/play/PL72FE55C473CB9F3B.html
man that neck on the electric guitar is messed up. does/did it have a broken truss rod too?
No the truss rod was fine, but it's hard to believe isn't it 😊👍
..that B.G music is VERY distracting........Classical....or Fernando Sor. would be more appropriate.,.,.... but you videos are MAGNIFICENT. !! VERYT useful. many thanks for a very fine job. !!
Thanks for your feedback . . and thank you very much 😊😃
Watched 30 minutes 😊
great stuff . . . thank you 😊😃
YEAH another good video, never thought about these things....
happier intro and back track wouldn't be bad either. KEEP THESE VIDEOS GOIN! we need more :)
Also you could push some more ads between to earn that good youtube adrevenue lol :D I wouldn't mind lol
Can you also please but link Amazon for example of what you are using on your video.
Good tips . . I like the moody tracks, but I get your point and I'll have to write and record some happy tracks for such occasions.
Prefer the clarity of no music for a tutorial. Personally.
I just bought my guitar 1 week ago, it's not a nylon the sound is different from what I heard in the video.
All guitars sound a little different, but there are a thousand reasons why it could sound different, one being how you play it 😊😊
You should include the size of the allen key, just saying
No . . the allen key sizes vary depending on the make and country of origin, that's why they usually include one with new guitars.
Devia colocar uma tradução da fala
Eu não posso pagar por esse serviço
That's painful seeing that Gibson with that twisted neck. I don't like Gibsons all that much, but it still hurts
agreed . . It looks so nice as well . . . 😒
Great video. Quick question, most videos and forums suggest to measure the string height at the 12th Fret without a Capo.
I see you use one. I’m confused, which is the right way to get the most accurate measurement?
if you know your nut is the correct height then you can do the adjustment without the capo, but if the capo is un adjusted then use a capo. Don't get too carried away with the measurements. it's how the guitar feels and plays that's important.
@@guitar-academy thank you! Great channel. I appreciate the videos.
@@letsridehard no problem, thank you 😊
♍️📐🤘
😊👍
The saddle of my guitar is unremovable 🥲
That's bad news, sorry to hear it 🤔
Everything is removable.
Thanks!
Thank you very much . . . 😊😀❤
♍️📐🤘
😊😃👍