Great job !! I've always been impressed that these 60-100 year old motors still have insulation that has not been degraded to the point that they would be shorted!.
Trying to get bearings off on an old Montgomery Ward motor, but it has sleeves in front of the bearings making it impossible to get the bearing off - Tried 3 different pullers, can’t get the damn sleeve off the shaft. I suppose I can cut it off - no reason for sleeves to be in front of bearings to begin with - Great job on that motor 👍 My centrifugal switch is a cone shaped spring with a felt disc that rides up and down and slides against a switch to disengage startup windings. Fun to rebuild them, I’m trying to rewind a 3 phase motor, lots of steps looks like fun. Enjoy your videos
I think I would try splitting the sleeves with chisel or grinder, or put the rotor in the lathe and machine off the sleeves and clean up the shaft. Thanks for watching.
Nice motor in the end Randy, looked a little funky when you opened the poor thing up but good for another half century of a hard life. My grandpa always said to change the bearings of anything you have apart and he said he never once had to regret having new bearings, a no brainier in his old school mind.
I love being able to bring an old motor back to life. They don't make them like that anymore. Those dirt shields looked great. Consistency in the Meg readings is a good thing. 21:11 SOUNDS GREAT!! SUCCESS!! A man of many talents. 'Til next time.
Great job, Randy, thanks. For those of us new to rebuilding motors, I would love to see even more detail. Many of the parts you left out would be a great help to a newbie. Old pros like you have forgotten more than I can learn. Little things like safe cleaning methods, the fine points of assembly/disassembly, wiring, lubrication, etc., would really go a long way in keeping me from screwing things up worse than they already are. Maybe next time you find a good candidate for rebuilding, you could do a longer series on the ins-an-outs of a good rebuild. I know I'd be in for watching. All the best to you.
They sure don't build motors like that any more... Glad you took the time to save it. It'll outlive several of the newer motors that claim to be equivalent.
Randy that was almost 22 minutes of pure delight! Those old motors were really over-built and made to last! The grease Zerks are always a problem because you can't really see how much you are applying. I always preferred the screw cap grease applicators for that application as you only give a turn of the cap every so often and don't have to worry about over-greasing. I think you made the right choice with sealed bearings and plugging the zerk holes. Great tutorial and awesome finished product! It would kill me to put that motor outside again! LOL
Thank you John. I am going to remove the rear housing and repair and put a door back on it. Also a floor I think, That will help alot for outside storage. Maybe even remove the motor and keep in the shop when not in use.
I’m glad you opted to change those bearings! Capacitors ten to go bad with age, I might have taken the capacitor to a motor shop to see if they could identify it and changed it out for a new one, just for insurance. That’s a mighty “purdy” red motor you got there!
Nice collection of vegetation, I hope you said sorry to the poor creature whose collection it was when you destroyed it.😄 Sounds good with the new bearings, don't forget to write it into your will for your great grand kids.
Randy, I have that exact motor sitting in my storage shed. It's the original motor from my 1943 South Bend 10L. It was still running fine; I swapped to a 3-phase motor and VFD. I'll probably do the same clean up and bearing replacement when I have spare time..LOL Not sure what I'll use it for, maybe a disk sander. Interesting note, because it mounted / hung upside down by the feet the end bells are rotated to maintain the vent holes on the bottom...good tip for anyone mounting a motor this way. Enjoyed the video....these old motors are well made and worth saving... Thanks for sharing -Dean
@@RRINTHESHOP Just checked the name plate (mine must be a little older) doesn't have the fancy Tri-Clad logo on the bottom. But does note maid in USA Schenectady N.Y. was double checking if capacitor size was listen on name plate, but no :-(
@@RRINTHESHOP Randy, I opened up my old motor. It has two starting capacitors in parallel 200-220 uF each / 110 VAC for a total capacitance of 400-440 uF. I should have a video up in a couple hours looking at it. -Dean
Phew - that was a nightmare inside! Fascinating project Randy - and a great clean up. Useful having the mega... I made a basic one long ago - mainly just for super high ohms, tho no voltage test option. What a joy when it fired up! Kudos dude!! :)
Good Afternoon Randy! I end up changing a motor at lease once a month. If outside, I never touch it until I spray down with Raid. You did a good job on this motor, glad you took the time to show the centrifugal switch.
I fixed microwaves when I ran my Lee's TV. Many were roach motels. I soaked one bad one with roach killer. I wrapped it in plastic and waited about 2 weeks. Only about 2/3s of the roached were dead! More bug killer. Roaches are tough insects.
Nice job Randy! I can tell this isn't your first rodeo with a motor rebuild, but I've got a couple of tips for you that might save you some time next go round. Make you a couple of long studs with the same thread as the bearing retainer screws. Thread them in a couple of the bearing retainer holes and then slide the end bell on. That way you don't have to fiddle with lining the holes up to start the screws. Pull them out when you have the screws started and put your other screws in. The other tip is to use a center punch to mark corresponding dots on the end bells and the stator, one dot on one end and two on the other, which makes it simple to align them going back on and to make it easy to know which end the shaft was on. I liked that you pulled the grease zerks out and plugged the holes so in the future some over zealous greaser won't fill the motor with grease again.
Hi Randy, Nice job rebuilding the motor, much more entertaining than just replacing it with another one and I have never seen a hand crank meg tester looks like a great unit.
Thank you Eric. Runs great now. I think the hand crank one are far better, no battery. And fun to get a newbie to hold the leads and give them a crank. You tell them it is a testosterone meter.
Well, that was fun, Randy. Well done. And it looks like you within hollerin' distance of 20,000 subscribers. It won't be long, I bet. Thanks for sharing.
Nice simple repair Randy, those old design jobs appear bulletproof to say the least, even that ratty looking capacitor has stood the test of time, just a set of bearings, if you are going to give it a real workout, and it's a keeper! Cheers!
Great restore, those electric motors are almost eternal, except for bearings and caps... 👍🙂 When a motor is destined to be used with a VFD, the megger test is to be performed at 1000 volts since the VFD will produce spikes due to the irregular shape of the alternating current sent to the motor.
You can almost tell someone's age by the color of their Snap On screwdrivers. Back before the word "bling" was coined, just like Model Ts, you could get Snap On screwdrivers in any color as long as it was black🙂 Nice job on the motor....almost too nice 👍
Thanks for the video. May I ask how you wired up the three prong cord in place of the original 2 prong? I'm restoring an old Craftsman motor and I'd like to add a ground wire if possible. Thanks!
Very informative, I just made a purchase of a vintage scrollsaw which has a century elec Co 1/3hp motor on it. Bearings are a bit dry so I'm going to be taking it apart to clean it up. Is there anything in particular I should be careful of when servicing this motor?
@@RRINTHESHOP thanks, yes. Apart from a serious amount of greasy saw dust the internals are in good shape and the insulation still looks good. The motor does run and is pretty quiet for its age. I need to replace the cork washers which are brittle but so far so good.
Hello Randy! Silly question, but is it safe to say that, if I'm getting a 7 kilo-ohm reading with a regular multimeter, I don't even need to bother with a Megger? What are likely fault points if I do have a ground issue? Thanks for the great video BTW.
As a reference. the usual min. resistance should be 500,000 ohms per 500 volts of operating voltage. So all operating voltage below 500 volts should be 500,000 ohms. If you have a high humidity situation, dry the motor out and retest. Put the motor in an oven at a low heat 150f for an hour or so. Meggers use high voltage to test , 250, 500, 1000 volts. A VOM does not use high voltage, so it can find an obvious ground but not a questionable one that is grounded when the motor is operating.
Great job Randy. As a kid I recall hearing my dad's old cement mixer motor making the same rattling noise yours did before you changed the bearings. Guess his needed new ones too. He swapped his for something soon after he finished with it. I expect its sitting in some shed now or eventually made it to a scrapyard. I doubt anyone did to it what you did to yours.
Nice job on getting it cleaned up, some pin striping would've been nice, maybe chrome plate the pulley, but hey it looks and runs like it'll go another 70 years. Occasionally I adhere to the philosophy that anything worth doing is worth overdoing, lol.
Hi Randy great to see you happy Friday too you. Good looking motor a General Electric Company motor because this belonged, we think you shared in your last video your dad and it will end up at your sons? We like motors so we ask. What a strong long lasting built to be rebuilt over & over motor housing. Nice puller for the bearing. Great job good motor save. New to us a hand crank insulation tester, we are researching this now, always learning. Lance & Patrick.
I tried to save a motor not too long ago but sadly one of the windings was leaking to ground and I was unable to find the leak after 2 hours of carefully poking around. Ended up salvaging an old bench grinder for a new motor
I know that you can't physically show. every aspect of the restoration process, but when you clean bearings or remove the grease, if you could give us just a brief rundown of what you do, I kind of want to understand the whole process. and even the simple things for us. Newbies makes a difference. Paint prep painting the whole works.
Hot soapy water, soft brush. Clean. Then heat to dry 100F to 125F if possible for 10 hrs. Then Megger test prior to applying voltage. With a min. of 1 meg per 500 volts.
Awesome! What did you determine was the cause of the rattling sound in the backside of the motor? Was it the switch as you originally thought, or perhaps the bearings? This really came out nice. Bravo!
Any chance I could get a picture of the 220 wiring diagram or just write it out. I have an old GE and the wiring diagram plate is gone. Mine looks similar with just 5 black numbered wires coming out of the motor. If nothing else it might give me a starting point. Thanks
Well thank you. I wasn't a Marine but a Marine Engineer and in the navy for a bit. My daughter is a Major in the Air National Guard. Thank you for your service.
Nice job, thanks ! Couple questions: where are brushes?? And, you did not replace them??? Just cleaned them??? Thanks, youtheman =), ps. where did you buy/ get bearings?? Ebay??/.....
@@RRINTHESHOP OK, thanks, one more question: 14" band saw motor, losing power, cant really saw too much, power "cuts" off, has to let it cool down, then works again?? Dirty inside?? or bad capacitor??
Not often you see an electric motor restoration that includes grass and arachnophillia. By heck they knew how to build 'em to last in those days. That fancy meter should have the capability to measure capacitors - they don't improve with age, it's just a fact of life that a big roll of wet paper will eventually dry out. Sad when your'e doing a true restoration, having to use new capacitors sort of spoils the look for purists - but there's just no way round it. In your case it can be your little secret. The insulation on the cable - time will tell - using 120v your'e unlikely to harm yourself with more than a nip. In the UK with 240v I'd renew what I could while I could.
![Why Did They Stop Making These? [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gh0SV8aPnMU/mqdefault.jpg)
![[BAEMON NEWS 7] NEW ALBUM COMING IN](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wtVeAPimOyo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job !! I've always been impressed that these 60-100 year old motors still have insulation that has not been degraded to the point that they would be shorted!.
Works great, Thank you.
Trying to get bearings off on an old Montgomery Ward motor, but it has sleeves in front of the bearings making it impossible to get the bearing off - Tried 3 different pullers, can’t get the damn sleeve off the shaft. I suppose I can cut it off - no reason for sleeves to be in front of bearings to begin with - Great job on that motor 👍 My centrifugal switch is a cone shaped spring with a felt disc that rides up and down and slides against a switch to disengage startup windings. Fun to rebuild them, I’m trying to rewind a 3 phase motor, lots of steps looks like fun. Enjoy your videos
I think I would try splitting the sleeves with chisel or grinder, or put the rotor in the lathe and machine off the sleeves and clean up the shaft. Thanks for watching.
Nice motor in the end Randy, looked a little funky when you opened the poor thing up but good for another half century of a hard life. My grandpa always said to change the bearings of anything you have apart and he said he never once had to regret having new bearings, a no brainier in his old school mind.
Yep, I usually do. I more curious, after a good cleaning to see how they were. Thanks John.
I love being able to bring an old motor back to life. They don't make them like that anymore. Those dirt shields looked great. Consistency in the Meg readings is a good thing. 21:11 SOUNDS GREAT!! SUCCESS!! A man of many talents. 'Til next time.
Thanks you Vernon, worked out great, runs smooth. Can't wait to get the rest done.
Very nice. can't beat the old stuff.
For sure can't beat it. The motor works great.
Thoroughly enjoyed this. Learned much.
Thanks Tom.
Great job, Randy, thanks. For those of us new to rebuilding motors, I would love to see even more detail. Many of the parts you left out would be a great help to a newbie. Old pros like you have forgotten more than I can learn. Little things like safe cleaning methods, the fine points of assembly/disassembly, wiring, lubrication, etc., would really go a long way in keeping me from screwing things up worse than they already are. Maybe next time you find a good candidate for rebuilding, you could do a longer series on the ins-an-outs of a good rebuild. I know I'd be in for watching. All the best to you.
The next motor, will do. Thanks for letting me know. Thanks Futopia.
Nice work. Love the old G&E motors. They built them to last back in the day.
Thanks Tom.
great surgery Dr. Richard...enjoyed
Thanks Chuck. Dr. in the house.
Very nice Randy
Thank you.
They sure don't build motors like that any more... Glad you took the time to save it. It'll outlive several of the newer motors that claim to be equivalent.
That is for sure. Thank you Jake.
They don't build them like they use too. Nice to see someone still know how to use a speed wrench.
Thanks, no this is a nice motor, very robust. I love speed wrenches, no battery.
Nice job Randy! Looks better than new.
Steve
Thanks Steve.
Good job. Induction motors are fairly indestructible which in this case is a useful feature.
Thank you Benedict. For sure of that.
Thanks for your excellent video
Thank you for watching.
Thanks for sharing Randy nice job.
Thanks Bombardier64.
Randy that was almost 22 minutes of pure delight! Those old motors were really over-built and made to last! The grease Zerks are always a problem because you can't really see how much you are applying. I always preferred the screw cap grease applicators for that application as you only give a turn of the cap every so often and don't have to worry about over-greasing. I think you made the right choice with sealed bearings and plugging the zerk holes. Great tutorial and awesome finished product! It would kill me to put that motor outside again! LOL
Thank you John. I am going to remove the rear housing and repair and put a door back on it. Also a floor I think, That will help alot for outside storage. Maybe even remove the motor and keep in the shop when not in use.
Great job, probably give you a hundred more years. Like the red paint.
Well for somebody. I don't think I will make it that long. Thanks Wire Works.
I’m glad you opted to change those bearings! Capacitors ten to go bad with age, I might have taken the capacitor to a motor shop to see if they could identify it and changed it out for a new one, just for insurance. That’s a mighty “purdy” red motor you got there!
Happy New Year
Sweet! It fixed up nice. Those old motors usually just run and run.
Usually, Just need a bit of TLC. Thanks Brian.
Wow the new bearings made a huge difference.
Yep, very smooth and quiet now. Thanks John.
I have a motor almost exactly like this on my air compressor. Cool to see what it looks like inside and how that centrifugal switch works.
Nice motor, Thanks.
Looks as great as it works. You did well with the colors on this... Merry Christmas!
It was what I had. Thanks Wes.
The most 'festive' looking motor I've see all afternoon! Good job!
Great, Thanks RW
Nice job on the motor.
Thank you Chris.
Really nice work
Thanks Richard.
Awsome Job Randy
Thanks Jim.
Interesting...enjoyed it...Scoutcrafter highly recommends...good choice
Thank you Black Kane for coming over. Scout is great, love his channel.
Looking good like a Randy Richard project should.
Thanks Harold, just trying to keep up with you.
Good job. Sounds like that motor will work for several more years.
Oh yes many more years of life. Thanks Mike.
great save Randy , It sure is a wonder it did not burn up with the crud and wires chafed .. ENJOYED !!
Thanks Shawn.
Nice collection of vegetation, I hope you said sorry to the poor creature whose collection it was when you destroyed it.😄
Sounds good with the new bearings, don't forget to write it into your will for your great grand kids.
I hope it will last that long, Thanks Chris. I am thinking of putting some screens in.
ScoutCrafter sent me your way. Great video...looking forward to seeing more. Thanks
Thanks Christopher for coming to the dark side.
Randy, I have that exact motor sitting in my storage shed. It's the original motor from my 1943 South Bend 10L. It was still running fine; I swapped to a 3-phase motor and VFD. I'll probably do the same clean up and bearing replacement when I have spare time..LOL Not sure what I'll use it for, maybe a disk sander. Interesting note, because it mounted / hung upside down by the feet the end bells are rotated to maintain the vent holes on the bottom...good tip for anyone mounting a motor this way.
Enjoyed the video....these old motors are well made and worth saving...
Thanks for sharing -Dean
If it is the same motor and you the cap. value I appreciate knowing. So far i have figured out what it is. Thanks Dean.
@@RRINTHESHOP Will do Randy, but it will probably be a few weeks. Still crazy busy.
@@RRINTHESHOP Just checked the name plate (mine must be a little older) doesn't have the fancy Tri-Clad logo on the bottom. But does note maid in USA Schenectady N.Y. was double checking if capacitor size was listen on name plate, but no :-(
@@TheAyrCaveShop Thanks Dean for looking.
@@RRINTHESHOP Randy, I opened up my old motor. It has two starting capacitors in parallel 200-220 uF each / 110 VAC for a total capacitance of 400-440 uF. I should have a video up in a couple hours looking at it.
-Dean
Nice job on that motor. BTW your scribes work fantastic. Thanks for the quick turn around.
Thank you Yves. Glad you like it.
Very nice! The motor turned out looking and sounding great. Looking forward to the rest of this series
Thanks Tim. Ready for the Cement Mixer now.
Great job Randy👍
I restored one a few years back and had to spray the windings with red laquer because the old coating had flaked off.
Thanks Clarke, The grease protected the winding, actually the insulation was in good shape and megger great.
Scoutcrafter sent me over. Cool videos so I decided to stay.🤓
Great thanks to Scout, enjoy. Thanks Cory.
Nice job Raandy
Thanks Mike.
Great restore.. You have an awesome motor now.
Watching in Alabama
Thanks Anthony.
Phew - that was a nightmare inside!
Fascinating project Randy - and a great clean up. Useful having the mega... I made a basic one long ago - mainly just for super high ohms, tho no voltage test option. What a joy when it fired up! Kudos dude!! :)
Thanks Chris, love my megger., I have carried it all over the world. We will see how the motor performs.
Nice job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi bro 👋👋👋very good restoration motor 👍👍👍
Thank you.
just catching up on this series. jealous of your electrical skills. love the red.
Thanks Emma, motor works great.
Great vid !!!!!
Thanks.
Hi Randy. ....ScoutCrafter sent me over. Just wanted to say hello as a new subscriber. Have a happy day!
Thank you John.
Nice job!👍🏻
Thanks MC.
The speed wrench makes another appearance, Randy's new favourite tool.
Cheers
Always been a favorite. Thanks Arthur.
Good Afternoon Randy! I end up changing a motor at lease once a month. If outside, I never touch it until I spray down with Raid. You did a good job on this motor, glad you took the time to show the centrifugal switch.
Morning Craig. I think this motor is going to work great.
I fixed microwaves when I ran my Lee's TV. Many were roach motels. I soaked one bad one with roach killer. I wrapped it in plastic and waited about 2 weeks. Only about 2/3s of the roached were dead! More bug killer. Roaches are tough insects.
Nice job Randy! I can tell this isn't your first rodeo with a motor rebuild, but I've got a couple of tips for you that might save you some time next go round. Make you a couple of long studs with the same thread as the bearing retainer screws. Thread them in a couple of the bearing retainer holes and then slide the end bell on. That way you don't have to fiddle with lining the holes up to start the screws. Pull them out when you have the screws started and put your other screws in. The other tip is to use a center punch to mark corresponding dots on the end bells and the stator, one dot on one end and two on the other, which makes it simple to align them going back on and to make it easy to know which end the shaft was on. I liked that you pulled the grease zerks out and plugged the holes so in the future some over zealous greaser won't fill the motor with grease again.
Thanks Bob for the suggestions.
Nice job Randy, that motor is very well made. Good info on testing the windings with your megger.
Thanks Bill. Megger testing is a must.
Hi Randy,
Nice job rebuilding the motor, much more entertaining than just replacing it with another one and I have never seen a hand crank meg tester looks like a great unit.
Thank you Eric. Runs great now. I think the hand crank one are far better, no battery. And fun to get a newbie to hold the leads and give them a crank. You tell them it is a testosterone meter.
@@RRINTHESHOP Yes the newbies, go get some prop wash and flight line from the neighboring shop. - : )
Yep we would send them to the bow for some shoreline.
Well, that was fun, Randy. Well done.
And it looks like you within hollerin' distance of 20,000 subscribers. It won't be long, I bet.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Joe. Slow going this summer.
Nice simple repair Randy, those old design jobs appear bulletproof to say the least, even that ratty looking capacitor has stood the test of time, just a set of bearings, if you are going to give it a real workout, and it's a keeper! Cheers!
It was such a mess inside, but a little clean up and small repairs and ready to go.
Great restore, those electric motors are almost eternal, except for bearings and caps... 👍🙂
When a motor is destined to be used with a VFD, the megger test is to be performed at 1000 volts since the VFD will produce spikes due to the irregular shape of the alternating current sent to the motor.
Thanks Pierre.
That motor should still be running nice when your grandkids have grandkids after that overhaul, lol!
That would be great. Thanks Mikey.
Good job.
Thank you.
You can almost tell someone's age by the color of their Snap On screwdrivers. Back before the word "bling" was coined, just like Model Ts, you could get Snap On screwdrivers in any color as long as it was black🙂
Nice job on the motor....almost too nice 👍
Yep old. I do have a Red set though. Gave a Yellow set to my son. i kept all my black ones.
G’day Randy, you even painted the internal shield. Motor sounds sweet, amazing what a clean up and new bearings can do.
Well done, cheers.
Peter
Thanks Peter, should last a while.
Thanks for the video. May I ask how you wired up the three prong cord in place of the original 2 prong? I'm restoring an old Craftsman motor and I'd like to add a ground wire if possible. Thanks!
Thank you. Connect the ground lead to the frame of the motor in the connection box and the other end to the ground terminal in your plug.
Thank you for the details. How did you clean the stator .
Vacuum and a tooth brush. Thank you.
Very informative, I just made a purchase of a vintage scrollsaw which has a century elec Co 1/3hp motor on it. Bearings are a bit dry so I'm going to be taking it apart to clean it up. Is there anything in particular I should be careful of when servicing this motor?
Be careful of the wires, the insulation on the the leads and windings can be brittle. Thanks Mark for stopping in.
@@RRINTHESHOP thanks, yes. Apart from a serious amount of greasy saw dust the internals are in good shape and the insulation still looks good. The motor does run and is pretty quiet for its age. I need to replace the cork washers which are brittle but so far so good.
@@markvankoersveld5881 Nice
Hello Randy! Silly question, but is it safe to say that, if I'm getting a 7 kilo-ohm reading with a regular multimeter, I don't even need to bother with a Megger? What are likely fault points if I do have a ground issue? Thanks for the great video BTW.
As a reference. the usual min. resistance should be 500,000 ohms per 500 volts of operating voltage. So all operating voltage below 500 volts should be 500,000 ohms. If you have a high humidity situation, dry the motor out and retest. Put the motor in an oven at a low heat 150f for an hour or so. Meggers use high voltage to test , 250, 500, 1000 volts. A VOM does not use high voltage, so it can find an obvious ground but not a questionable one that is grounded when the motor is operating.
Great job Randy. As a kid I recall hearing my dad's old cement mixer motor making the same rattling noise yours did before you changed the bearings. Guess his needed new ones too. He swapped his for something soon after he finished with it. I expect its sitting in some shed now or eventually made it to a scrapyard. I doubt anyone did to it what you did to yours.
We will see how the rattle goes when I get to the bearing for the yoke and drum.
Nice job on getting it cleaned up, some pin striping would've been nice, maybe chrome plate the pulley, but hey it looks and runs like it'll go another 70 years. Occasionally I adhere to the philosophy that anything worth doing is worth overdoing, lol.
Thank you. I can't paint and my daughter got all the artist genes.
Hi Randy great to see you happy Friday too you. Good looking motor a General Electric Company motor because this belonged, we think you shared in your last video your dad and it will end up at your sons? We like motors so we ask. What a strong long lasting built to be rebuilt over & over motor housing. Nice puller for the bearing. Great job good motor save.
New to us a hand crank insulation tester, we are researching this now, always learning.
Lance & Patrick.
Thanks Lance and Patrick. The motor will stay with the Mixer.
Sweet!
Thanks Yuchol, came out great.
I tried to save a motor not too long ago but sadly one of the windings was leaking to ground and I was unable to find the leak after 2 hours of carefully poking around. Ended up salvaging an old bench grinder for a new motor
Bummer. Thanks Shiro. That is the usual problem with old motors.
I know that you can't physically show. every aspect of the restoration process, but when you clean bearings or remove the grease, if you could give us just a brief rundown of what you do, I kind of want to understand the whole process. and even the simple things for us. Newbies makes a difference. Paint prep painting the whole works.
Thank you.
Wish you showed cleanup, thats what I’m looking for.
Hot soapy water, soft brush. Clean. Then heat to dry 100F to 125F if possible for 10 hrs. Then Megger test prior to applying voltage. With a min. of 1 meg per 500 volts.
Very well made. The capacitor values should be noted on the nameplate of the motor.
Usually, not this one. Thanks Ewald.
I checked the nameplate on mine (same motor) unfortunately not listed.
Awesome! What did you determine was the cause of the rattling sound in the backside of the motor? Was it the switch as you originally thought, or perhaps the bearings? This really came out nice. Bravo!
Bearings. Thank you.
Any chance I could get a picture of the 220 wiring diagram or just write it out. I have an old GE and the wiring diagram plate is gone. Mine looks similar with just 5 black numbered wires coming out of the motor. If nothing else it might give me a starting point. Thanks
Email me, RRINTHESHOP@GMAIL.COM. No problem.
You may find a freeze plug for the non drive end bearing housing.
The org. plug is the best. Thanks Dennis.
Scout Crafter Said, A fellow Marine has a channel and go check him out so here I am. Semper Fi Bother Looks good so far.
Well thank you. I wasn't a Marine but a Marine Engineer and in the navy for a bit. My daughter is a Major in the Air National Guard. Thank you for your service.
I guess the GE logo cap is fine to keep dust out. Sorry I was impatient.
Thanks
Everybody in a rush. Thanks Dennis for the quick stop over.
Nice job, thanks ! Couple questions: where are brushes?? And, you did not replace them??? Just cleaned them??? Thanks, youtheman =), ps. where did you buy/ get bearings?? Ebay??/.....
No Brushes, AC 1 ph, motor. I do not remember where on the bearings ,Thank you I hope this helps.
@@RRINTHESHOP OK, thanks, one more question: 14" band saw motor, losing power, cant really saw too much, power "cuts" off, has to let it cool down, then works again?? Dirty inside?? or bad capacitor??
What fixed the rattle inside the motor ? New bearings ? And adjustment to the centripetal switch ?
You never told us.
I think it was trash and switch the most. Thanks you Joe.
Looked like that motor had stuff growing inside of it.
Just some old and very hard grease. Cleaned up good. Thanks Ken.
Scout brought me here
Thank you JM.
do you restore old electric motors for others? It's a 1/4 hp delco to an old Voss wringer washer...
No I don't Gary. Thanks for watching.
Could you do a video on how you check all the leads on the motor? Thanks
I could do that. Thanks Robert.
Nice restoration! Are you putting it back on the mixer or doe this old motor have a new destiny?
Mixer, it will go
Not often you see an electric motor restoration that includes grass and arachnophillia.
By heck they knew how to build 'em to last in those days.
That fancy meter should have the capability to measure capacitors - they don't improve with age, it's just a fact of life that a big roll of wet paper will eventually dry out. Sad when your'e doing a true restoration, having to use new capacitors sort of spoils the look for purists - but there's just no way round it. In your case it can be your little secret. The insulation on the cable - time will tell - using 120v your'e unlikely to harm yourself with more than a nip. In the UK with 240v I'd renew what I could while I could.
Thanks Andy.
How do u contact this guy?
What guy? Thanks.
You may be able to google the motor and find the start cap rating. also p[possible to substitute from a comparable motor with caution.
Thanks
I will look a bit more but initial searching nothing. And not noted on the name plate. Thanks Dennis.
So the Cap operates what? maybe 1/2 second with each start. not exactly high usage.
How could green grass be in?
It was out side for a long time. Thanks erasmo.