Some things I learned working on this engine. In Australia, they rotate it backwards after two rotations forward to verify timing. The 2.8 variant of this engine was built there. If you use all cam tools at once, you don't have to rotate the engine at all. Some people keep it in stage one or stage two. As long as the tools are holding everything in place, with the flats and angled sides of the camshaft lining up, you can remove all the chains at once. The special tools that are out there have crappy machining and I found, at least in my experience, they will fit super snug or not at all after you've installed all chains. If your markers line up on all chains, you're good to go. It's important to reset the tensioners if you've activated them and you need to remove them for any reason. Applying lube to the guides and the top side of the chains will prevent dry rattle at first start up. If you're doing it in the car, tons of coolant, even after you've drained it, can and will enter the oil pan so definitely change the oil after wrapping this job up. You also do not need to remove the water pump but definitely replace the gasket and thoroughly clean the contact and mating surfaces.
I never knew there were tools for this, I have done hundreds of them, and it takes me like 10 minutes now to install the chains without tools. I don't like the lube because it can come in contact with the gasket maker for the timing cover and it can create a leak, I never recommend doing it in the car cuz there is a chance the timing will be off. always remove the oil pan and inspect the bottom end and wash and clean every single part before it is put back together, once I remove the engine from the vehicle every single gasket has to be replaced, that's just the way i do things around here. I don't take any chances for mistakes everything has to be perfect, and a job well done. I don't like come backs
@@antonioaguirre6166 I hear you. I think since you're pulling the motor out, your way is much easier and feasible, but if you're doing it in the car, especially if you have a Saab with one of these etc, the person who drives it is likely going to do it in the car. I find putting a thin skim coat on the guides themselves helps but that's just me. A mirror is important for the guys doing it in the car!
@ I see what you saying now. Yes, very important to check those points. I think there is another euro vehicle that has these engines. I just can’t remember which one. I always thought that only American cars had this style of engine.
@@getthatouttahere4212 not necessarily, unless the timing chain jumped more than 3 teeth and the valves made contact with the piston. Run a cylinder leak down test if the valve are set (not leaking) continue with the timing chain installation
Hi Antonio. Just had my timing chain replaced at the dealership. I'm now getting codes P000A, P0008, P0016, P0301, P0303 and P0305. Any thoughts on what I should do next?
can you give me a little bit more info on this? year make and model, where the camshaft phaser replaced too? how long did you drive the truck till these codes pop up? there is a service bulleting about these codes p0008 and p0016. I have never experience it but someone else had this problem. the p0301, p0303 and p0305 is related to bank one. I am surprised you not getting codes for bank two as well.
@@antonioaguirre6166 It's a 2010 GMC Acadia. 230000 miles. No, the phaser was not replaced. The codes came up after leaving the mechanic, maybe 5 miles down the road. The mechanic couldn't start the vehicle after replacing the timing chain, so they replaced spark plugs as well but I did drive it there to begin with. I hope to take it back to the mechanic after the weekend but was hoping for a second opinion.
so, before you took your car to the dealership what was the car doing? The way you are explaining this it sounds like they left something wrong with the timing on bank one. did they give you some kind of warranty? I always offer my costumers warranty and if I did something wrong, I would do the job over again till is right, so if they offer you warranty, they need to take it back and redo the job. especially if it happens five miles after the job was done. it sounds like they did not remove the engine off the vehicle, it is faster, and it cuts labor time but bank one it's kind of hard to do specially if the engine is not out the vehicle.
@@antonioaguirre6166 Before taking it in, I would lose power while driving - pressing on the gas caused the vehicle to slow down. Received "Engive Power is Reduced" and "Service Stabilitrak" messages on interior display. I had to pull over, turn off ignition and restart and would be able to drive for a few more miles. Dealership used GDS2 to verify cam position correlation failure, timing chains worn, and recommeded replacement to correct. I hope they have some type of warranty but not holding my breath. Would have loved to take it to you after watching the care and attention you put into your work on your video. Unfortunately, I'm 1500 miles away from Texas.
So i opened the engine to replace the timing chain and i found the main oil pump chain snapped. No how do it install the chain and how do i know if the cams are in time with the crankshaft?
They are not in time anymore. Just make sure your cams marks are facing the direction I showed you and the crankshaft lines up with the mark on the pump
For anyone else... Check your oil pressure!! With low pressure (under 30psi), you won't get enough spray off the jet in the tensioners to lube the chains and they'll wear the rollers/pins - then the dreaded chain snap. I've added an actual mechanical gauge going into the interior so this never happens again. Got about 15K km's on a brand new chain/tensioner/gear/pads setup - but I failed to put in a new pump (which is NOW new!).
Bro your the Acadia whisperer 😂 the way you didn't give two 💩's about the oil timing guide had me rolling plus the fact you man handled the camshafts was next level. Most if not all the vids I've seen on doing this job have people using a camshaft holder to minimize jumping a tooth during the install especially the right bank and just replacing the plastic guide on the oil pump. Apparently according to GMC techs on forums including Cloyes reps that part is super critical and torqued in a certain sequence during the oil pump manufacturing process so they only chage out the plastic part or replace the entire pump when doing the timing chains to avoid issues. I know I'm going to need to change out the chains on my 2008 soon so watching every video on the subject. BTW I'm thinking of just going with OEM timing chains since I've heard that Cloyes kits have been having issues. Do you have a timing chain kit you recommend? Thanks
I love working on this engines. I do it everyday. I think I have done at least 100 of them this year. If you follow my steps you should be fine. I driving the Acadia right now and don’t see any issues. No engine codes either.
@@antonioaguirre6166 Yah I was thinking of going with them too since they were one of the first after market timing chain kits, but what I've seen and read online they must have switched manufacturers because the quality of the tensioners have gone down and I've seen alot of failures lately. I have 140K on the engine and it's been good, but I've had the timing cover oil leak problem right after my warranty expired. So I've been pretty much changing oil on it every 3000 or sooner just to be safe so far 40K miles later no issues. I don't have a lift so planning on doing it in the vehicle since it is possible, but a pain in the butt. I believe the recommended timing chain is at 120K or so, but it's just a weekend car so not driven too often. I was just planning on just doing the timing cover reseal, but figured I might aswell wait until I really need to dig into the engine. I'm sure you can have those engines out in less than an hour by now with a lift 👍🏻
Some things I learned working on this engine. In Australia, they rotate it backwards after two rotations forward to verify timing. The 2.8 variant of this engine was built there. If you use all cam tools at once, you don't have to rotate the engine at all. Some people keep it in stage one or stage two. As long as the tools are holding everything in place, with the flats and angled sides of the camshaft lining up, you can remove all the chains at once. The special tools that are out there have crappy machining and I found, at least in my experience, they will fit super snug or not at all after you've installed all chains. If your markers line up on all chains, you're good to go. It's important to reset the tensioners if you've activated them and you need to remove them for any reason. Applying lube to the guides and the top side of the chains will prevent dry rattle at first start up. If you're doing it in the car, tons of coolant, even after you've drained it, can and will enter the oil pan so definitely change the oil after wrapping this job up. You also do not need to remove the water pump but definitely replace the gasket and thoroughly clean the contact and mating surfaces.
I never knew there were tools for this, I have done hundreds of them, and it takes me like 10 minutes now to install the chains without tools. I don't like the lube because it can come in contact with the gasket maker for the timing cover and it can create a leak, I never recommend doing it in the car cuz there is a chance the timing will be off. always remove the oil pan and inspect the bottom end and wash and clean every single part before it is put back together, once I remove the engine from the vehicle every single gasket has to be replaced, that's just the way i do things around here. I don't take any chances for mistakes everything has to be perfect, and a job well done. I don't like come backs
@@antonioaguirre6166 I hear you. I think since you're pulling the motor out, your way is much easier and feasible, but if you're doing it in the car, especially if you have a Saab with one of these etc, the person who drives it is likely going to do it in the car. I find putting a thin skim coat on the guides themselves helps but that's just me. A mirror is important for the guys doing it in the car!
@ I see what you saying now. Yes, very important to check those points. I think there is another euro vehicle that has these engines. I just can’t remember which one. I always thought that only American cars had this style of engine.
Thank you for making videos on this engine. I haven't found much online with this engine.
You are very welcome. I’m glad you like it. 😁 check out my channel I am all about 3.6L. I’ll eat them for breakfast 🤣🤣
Thank you for watching, like share and subscribe it helps the channel
When timing goes bad on this engines, do the valves need to be replaced?
@@getthatouttahere4212 not necessarily, unless the timing chain jumped more than 3 teeth and the valves made contact with the piston. Run a cylinder leak down test if the valve are set (not leaking) continue with the timing chain installation
@@antonioaguirre6166 gracias, carnal!
Am getting stuck when turning the crank to install 3rd chain, boss. Where am I wrong?
@@getthatouttahere4212 do not force it. Do all of your timing marks line up on bank one and the middle chain as well?
Yes. I got some interference
Hi Antonio. Just had my timing chain replaced at the dealership. I'm now getting codes P000A, P0008, P0016, P0301, P0303 and P0305. Any thoughts on what I should do next?
can you give me a little bit more info on this?
year make and model, where the camshaft phaser replaced too? how long did you drive the truck till these codes pop up? there is a service bulleting about these codes p0008 and p0016. I have never experience it but someone else had this problem. the p0301, p0303 and p0305 is related to bank one. I am surprised you not getting codes for bank two as well.
@@antonioaguirre6166 It's a 2010 GMC Acadia. 230000 miles. No, the phaser was not replaced. The codes came up after leaving the mechanic, maybe 5 miles down the road. The mechanic couldn't start the vehicle after replacing the timing chain, so they replaced spark plugs as well but I did drive it there to begin with. I hope to take it back to the mechanic after the weekend but was hoping for a second opinion.
so, before you took your car to the dealership what was the car doing? The way you are explaining this it sounds like they left something wrong with the timing on bank one. did they give you some kind of warranty? I always offer my costumers warranty and if I did something wrong, I would do the job over again till is right, so if they offer you warranty, they need to take it back and redo the job. especially if it happens five miles after the job was done. it sounds like they did not remove the engine off the vehicle, it is faster, and it cuts labor time but bank one it's kind of hard to do specially if the engine is not out the vehicle.
thank you for watching like share and subscribe it helps the channel.
@@antonioaguirre6166 Before taking it in, I would lose power while driving - pressing on the gas caused the vehicle to slow down. Received "Engive Power is Reduced" and "Service Stabilitrak" messages on interior display. I had to pull over, turn off ignition and restart and would be able to drive for a few more miles. Dealership used GDS2 to verify cam position correlation failure, timing chains worn, and recommeded replacement to correct. I hope they have some type of warranty but not holding my breath. Would have loved to take it to you after watching the care and attention you put into your work on your video. Unfortunately, I'm 1500 miles away from Texas.
Do you have any head gasket replacement videos
Yes, it should be on my channel
th-cam.com/video/6KWGE9X-euY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8IaYwmDiTZenyUI2
It’s kind of long but it has lots of good information. I hope this helps
So i opened the engine to replace the timing chain and i found the main oil pump chain snapped. No how do it install the chain and how do i know if the cams are in time with the crankshaft?
They are not in time anymore. Just make sure your cams marks are facing the direction I showed you and the crankshaft lines up with the mark on the pump
Loosen up the camshaft bearings to help you turn the crankshaft
I’m about to upload a video showing how to loosen up the camshaft bearings and re-torque them
Man you are awesome I really appreciate you!
Can you please show the marks on the camshafts and the matching mark on the crankshaft
For anyone else... Check your oil pressure!! With low pressure (under 30psi), you won't get enough spray off the jet in the tensioners to lube the chains and they'll wear the rollers/pins - then the dreaded chain snap. I've added an actual mechanical gauge going into the interior so this never happens again. Got about 15K km's on a brand new chain/tensioner/gear/pads setup - but I failed to put in a new pump (which is NOW new!).
Good information. Thank you for watching like and subscribe
Master tech at work
thank you for watching, like and subscribe, it helps the channel.
Bro your the Acadia whisperer 😂 the way you didn't give two 💩's about the oil timing guide had me rolling plus the fact you man handled the camshafts was next level. Most if not all the vids I've seen on doing this job have people using a camshaft holder to minimize jumping a tooth during the install especially the right bank and just replacing the plastic guide on the oil pump. Apparently according to GMC techs on forums including Cloyes reps that part is super critical and torqued in a certain sequence during the oil pump manufacturing process so they only chage out the plastic part or replace the entire pump when doing the timing chains to avoid issues. I know I'm going to need to change out the chains on my 2008 soon so watching every video on the subject. BTW I'm thinking of just going with OEM timing chains since I've heard that Cloyes kits have been having issues. Do you have a timing chain kit you recommend? Thanks
I love working on this engines. I do it everyday. I think I have done at least 100 of them this year. If you follow my steps you should be fine. I driving the Acadia right now and don’t see any issues. No engine codes either.
Oem parts are good. I’ve been using the cloy
I’ve been using cloyes for the last 4 years and I haven’t have any problems so far
Thank you for watching, like and subscribe it helps
@@antonioaguirre6166 Yah I was thinking of going with them too since they were one of the first after market timing chain kits, but what I've seen and read online they must have switched manufacturers because the quality of the tensioners have gone down and I've seen alot of failures lately. I have 140K on the engine and it's been good, but I've had the timing cover oil leak problem right after my warranty expired. So I've been pretty much changing oil on it every 3000 or sooner just to be safe so far 40K miles later no issues. I don't have a lift so planning on doing it in the vehicle since it is possible, but a pain in the butt. I believe the recommended timing chain is at 120K or so, but it's just a weekend car so not driven too often. I was just planning on just doing the timing cover reseal, but figured I might aswell wait until I really need to dig into the engine. I'm sure you can have those engines out in less than an hour by now with a lift 👍🏻
What if it won’t start and I get crank sensor code p0336 smh I sure I did it correct I checked it over and over spun it over and over cloyeys kit
Maybe you have a problem on the tone ring. There is a bulletin about the tone ring moving out of position
If you install any of the chains a tooth off the engine will start
I think I explained it on the Camaro engine
th-cam.com/video/pKBU5pl9ccw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oLcilGeJ68SF0QGp
Check out this one. I think this is the one where I explain the problem