Paul, I wanted to thank you for this video. A few minutes ago I finished Raptorlining the bottom of my 78 K10 Cab. I never thought I could do it but after watching you....20 times, I felt I could do it successfully. Mine sprayed like a dream and looks amazing. Thank you for all the squarebody videos you have done!! MK
Continuous little steps forward lead to progress. Make a check list including all the little tedious stuff and shoot to mark a couple things off every week.
I have that raptor gun but I customized a HVLP gun with a 2.3 for bed-liners. Textures but it’s even and smooth, as they would do a bed-liner at the factory.
Great working progress - clear explanation of the benefits of planing ahead. Lots of fun and high rewards at the end (trust me I know). I kinda miss working on mine maybe I will do another one soon.
I always look forward to your next videos. Looking very good my friend, Keep-on-keeping on . Take care of you&yours my TH-cam Friend & I'll keep watching.Love what you are doing&learning from you too.....Thanks Buddy....
Pet peeve FYI et all , Just so they can save creating a separate sku /stamp on the front cab support braces .. know that they do not sit flush back against the support running beneath the cab , the one side will be about 3/8” short .. the original OEM support runs on a bit of an angle to match up with the runner under the cab....little things like that - pet peeve!! Nice job on the underside !
@Karl’s O-rings > I have called around & researched online, but a quart is $36 or higher. I got 5 left and good stuff. Here is a homemade brew my grandad used on tools. He took was toilet seals, added boiled linseed oil and a cap or mineral solvent, heated, stirred and adjusted for viscosity. He had a “Binks” and sprayed saws, dipped others and brushed on wood planes. It looks the same as bottled product but today, rings ($0.99 cents) are petroleum based, but still looks the same and hardens to soft coatings. I have a pressure pot with air hose type coupled and 5 different hoses & tips for inside cavity waxing-protection. I worked as Tech when a dealer was bought by another. Anything in open box was pitched in dumpster. So I got mine. Yes, a lot of everything! Just throwing that out to see what sticks... Retired ASE Master.
Glad I watched this video. I want to raptor line the bottom.of my c10 and wasn't sure how much it'd take. I was thinking it'd take a whole lot more than one bottle to do the underside of the cab.
@@paulkc10 do you have a picture of the lift because it was all checked off? I'd like to make one for mine, and just was looking for items so I don't miss too much
Great work. If you’ll run the raptor liner at 45-50psi it ends up with less texture. Almost like a heavy sand paper instead of the normal bedliner globs.
You welding in cab floor supports by spacing your welds. This keep warpage to a minimum, but either way, when spot welds are going in, and gaps form between floor pan and brackets, use a round nose punch & hammer to flatting tight or hammer & dolly action. I do know the latter suggestion is impossible when working alone but either tap floor skin down or bracket up to close the gap. I did cringe when you said “Silicone” but may have meant to say Sean sealer. Their are a lot of seams to be sealed on the bottom anywhere two spots welded factory joint are created. Although coatings are applied, i would seal each day edge of braces. I enjoyed your desire to place the cab on its back, this would allow access to smooth welds, apply seam sealer and following coating. I know Eastwoods new rust encapsulator is designed to grab onto slight rust, either cab or frame when cleaned. Using Upol Raptor was an excellent choice. They say to test texture on scrape piece to get the texture you want. I did not know that xylene was a reducer. Interesting and info thank you! Ed402 of the North!
I’m a little surprised you only did one coat of Raptor. Now that’s it’s been a while do you wish you’d done a second coat? I know it’s the bottom but all that work to get the cab off you only really have this one shot at doing this. Curious your thoughts on that. I’m considering a cab off restoration on my 66 f250 I’m starting this summer.
Ok: let me start by saying thank you for all of your videos ! Just subscribed after watching more and more .... however !!... I have to share a thought... my thought was, does this guy live in an alternate universe parallel to mine that has more hours in the day and beautiful garages are abundant ?!?! lol wtf. Haha. Great job so far! Sic
Thanks man. Def not more hours in the day, just long nights. We are building a new house, so another new garage in the sort of near future. Juuuust a few special design things in that one.
@@paulkc10 Just from my experience from C-10's I have always thought they were loosely insulated inside.... I had an 81' built from ground up and that's the one thing I wish I would have paid more attention too.... It had a 350sbc with to big of a cam and had 2 chamber 40 series flowmasters.... It literally sounded just as loud as my 70' Nova(Tube Chassis) 600 HP did but was no were near the ride.... Make sure you get other opinions, because just like me watching your video's.... I learn from every one of them and appreciate being along for the ride!!!! Get Em' DOC!!!! lol
Hey Paul, Thanks for all of your C10 videos. Awesome truck! I know you have since sold it... If you still have it would you be willing to share your C10 checklist? Thanks!
Ford lovers, please don't kill but I'm doing a LS swap on my 1986 f150. Some people say "why don't you just get a ford engine" but there are no ford engines cheaper than a LS and I'm on a low budget because I'm 16
Great video Just removed the bed and cab on my 67 chevy. Going to do the bottom of the cab. Your video is a great help. Does the rust escapulator have tone sprayed or can I brush it on the frame and cab? Thank you
Hi Paul, new to your channel. Watched a few of your shows. You are doing a real nice job on your restoration !! Is the raptor liner fire proof or safe near your exhaust ? Just curious. Thumbs Up !!!
@Rons are-Creations >Ron, I have a new box next to me in July 2021. On inside lid it states: #1, 125 sq. ft. in 2 coats. #2, Provides a tough, mechanical damage and stain resistant surface. #3, Protects against rust, corrosion and extreme temperatures. Remember, this is a catalyzed product, not a rubberized spray-on can stuff! Guy/Gals are doing the entire vehicle. Some buy the “Tint-able” version that is milky looking. But only an auto paint store should mix the toner, enamel resins, enamel dryer to complete a proper colorant that will dry/fade somewhat. That’s my 2 cents, but adjusted for today’s wood price inflation, it’s $4.13 worth of advice!
Is that a filter/regulator combo on your gun? Did it also come from HD? Maybe I'll just get the 2 can set of Raptor Liner, since you did a bigger truck in one.
Hey great job man!!! One question on your rear cab supports, are they the same wide i got a kit that had all those parts but a has just about to replace them and they seem to be to wide.. did you run to this problem?? the length is whatever you want to replace that is ok but the wide was really different..
With it being 2 years now, what’s your opinion on the raptor lining and your process (other chemicals/materials)? Would you do anything different if doing it again today?
Did you beed/sand blast this bottom of the truck to get it that clean looking or just pressure washing and alot of wire wheeling ? Im probly buying an 86 G-body this weekend if its not too rusted out and may wanna do something like this but without taking the entire car apart like this truck its gonna be alot of work on my back with rust falling in my face!
Paul. I am working on a1967 C10 and have a question about the bed sides. Do you have a video taking apart the inner and outer bedside on a fleet side bed. I want to be able to clean and paint. I can cut the welds around the wheel well but not sure about where the tail gate bolts on. Once I cut the welds does the inner come out or is there difficulties with how it mounts to back bed post and under upper bed sides
Are you gonna use the same set up to paint the truck, if so you think it can keep up? Or are you going to rattle can it with the same gold you used on the bedsides?
Paul, I wanted to thank you for this video. A few minutes ago I finished Raptorlining the bottom of my 78 K10 Cab. I never thought I could do it but after watching you....20 times, I felt I could do it successfully. Mine sprayed like a dream and looks amazing. Thank you for all the squarebody videos you have done!! MK
My project truck has stalled but watching your videos has helped me get motivated to get back at it.
Continuous little steps forward lead to progress. Make a check list including all the little tedious stuff and shoot to mark a couple things off every week.
I have that raptor gun but I customized a HVLP gun with a 2.3 for bed-liners. Textures but it’s even and smooth, as they would do a bed-liner at the factory.
Great working progress - clear explanation of the benefits of planing ahead. Lots of fun and high rewards at the end (trust me I know). I kinda miss working on mine maybe I will do another one soon.
Looks great, anxious to see it going back together, getting closer everyday!
Little by little
I always look forward to your next videos. Looking very good my friend, Keep-on-keeping on . Take care of you&yours my TH-cam Friend & I'll keep watching.Love what you are doing&learning from you too.....Thanks Buddy....
Very nice job.... keep up the good work...
Looks fantastic. Couldn’t look any better.
I agree. I’m really happy with it.
Hi this Scott learn a lot. Keep goin
Good hat choice maybe some CMU would be nice.
Pet peeve
FYI et all , Just so they can save creating a separate sku /stamp on the front cab support braces .. know that they do not sit flush back against the support running beneath the cab , the one side will be about 3/8” short .. the original OEM support runs on a bit of an angle to match up with the runner under the cab....little things like that - pet peeve!!
Nice job on the underside !
I used the Raptor on my truck too. I was surprised how much coverage I was able to get out of one bottle. I have enough for other projects.
No kidding. Can’t beat the price either
Looks good now I wanted do that’d to my 82 c10 👍👍👌
Good job. Came out nice
Quality work man looks pro 👍🏻🍻 Can't wait to do this to my 69 someday
Great job! The finished product looks great.
👍👍👍GREAT WORK YOUR VIDEOS MAKE ME WANT TO WORK ON MY C10
Seal all the edges of the liner with silicone. Take longer for the corrosion to start peeling it away at the edges.
Good work bro . It’s coming along nicely
Thanks man, it’s getting there
Enjoyed your vid. Great content. You are doing an amazing job my friend. Take care.
I suggest cavity waxing your rocker panels and and cab corners. Great work Paul!
That's a good idea, thanks man!
@Karl’s O-rings > I have called around & researched online, but a quart is $36 or higher. I got 5 left and good stuff. Here is a homemade brew my grandad used on tools. He took was toilet seals, added boiled linseed oil and a cap or mineral solvent, heated, stirred and adjusted for viscosity. He had a “Binks” and sprayed saws, dipped others and brushed on wood planes. It looks the same as bottled product but today, rings ($0.99 cents) are petroleum based, but still looks the same and hardens to soft coatings.
I have a pressure pot with air hose type coupled and 5 different hoses & tips for inside cavity waxing-protection. I worked as Tech when a dealer was bought by another. Anything in open box was pitched in dumpster. So I got mine. Yes, a lot of everything!
Just throwing that out to see what sticks... Retired ASE Master.
Wow that looks awsome 👍👍
Looks good think I'll do the interior and exterior floor and rocker panels on my 69 c-10. Nice work on your truck.
Glad I watched this video. I want to raptor line the bottom.of my c10 and wasn't sure how much it'd take. I was thinking it'd take a whole lot more than one bottle to do the underside of the cab.
I was surprised as well
Looks good bud
Love the checklist!
It's the best feeling to check something off the list
@@paulkc10 do you have a picture of the lift because it was all checked off? I'd like to make one for mine, and just was looking for items so I don't miss too much
It’s on my Instagram. I made it about halfway thru the project so it’s not relevant to everyone but should give you a starting point.
Awesome, thanks!
Seems so effortless.
Far from effortless but did plenty of homework and prep
Great work. If you’ll run the raptor liner at 45-50psi it ends up with less texture. Almost like a heavy sand paper instead of the normal bedliner globs.
Amazing job
You welding in cab floor supports by spacing your welds. This keep warpage to a minimum, but either way, when spot welds are going in, and gaps form between floor pan and brackets, use a round nose punch & hammer to flatting tight or hammer & dolly action. I do know the latter suggestion is impossible when working alone but either tap floor skin down or bracket up to close the gap. I did cringe when you said “Silicone” but may have meant to say Sean sealer. Their are a lot of seams to be sealed on the bottom anywhere two spots welded factory joint are created. Although coatings are applied, i would seal each day edge of braces. I enjoyed your desire to place the cab on its back, this would allow access to smooth welds, apply seam sealer and following coating. I know Eastwoods new rust encapsulator is designed to grab onto slight rust, either cab or frame when cleaned. Using Upol Raptor was an excellent choice. They say to test texture on scrape piece to get the texture you want. I did not know that xylene was a reducer. Interesting and info thank you!
Ed402 of the North!
BEEN WAITIN' FOR THIS BROTHER!!!!
I’m a little surprised you only did one coat of Raptor. Now that’s it’s been a while do you wish you’d done a second coat? I know it’s the bottom but all that work to get the cab off you only really have this one shot at doing this. Curious your thoughts on that. I’m considering a cab off restoration on my 66 f250 I’m starting this summer.
Nah, the coverage was great.
Nice job! Just subed. to your channel.
Ok: let me start by saying thank you for all of your videos ! Just subscribed after watching more and more .... however !!... I have to share a thought... my thought was, does this guy live in an alternate universe parallel to mine that has more hours in the day and beautiful garages are abundant ?!?! lol wtf. Haha.
Great job so far! Sic
Thanks man. Def not more hours in the day, just long nights. We are building a new house, so another new garage in the sort of near future. Juuuust a few special design things in that one.
paulk_c10
... ok, now you’re just rubbin it in lol
You should bedliner the interior floor pan as well...
I considered it. The cab will badly need insulation for heat and sound tho.
@@paulkc10 Im gonna be doing it with bedliner, sound deadner, mastic tape, then carpet.... lol
I’ll hit a few spots with the rust encapsulator but otherwise it’s overkill
@@paulkc10 Just from my experience from C-10's I have always thought they were loosely insulated inside.... I had an 81' built from ground up and that's the one thing I wish I would have paid more attention too.... It had a 350sbc with to big of a cam and had 2 chamber 40 series flowmasters.... It literally sounded just as loud as my 70' Nova(Tube Chassis) 600 HP did but was no were near the ride.... Make sure you get other opinions, because just like me watching your video's.... I learn from every one of them and appreciate being along for the ride!!!! Get Em' DOC!!!! lol
Hey Paul, Thanks for all of your C10 videos. Awesome truck! I know you have since sold it... If you still have it would you be willing to share your C10 checklist? Thanks!
I’m sure it’s on my Instagram somewhere
Looks awesome! So what's the plan for body paint? Do you have one? Is it a secret? Love this build!
Rattle can for now
Ford lovers, please don't kill but I'm doing a LS swap on my 1986 f150. Some people say "why don't you just get a ford engine" but there are no ford engines cheaper than a LS and I'm on a low budget because I'm 16
Great video
Just removed the bed and cab on my 67 chevy.
Going to do the bottom of the cab.
Your video is a great help.
Does the rust escapulator have tone sprayed or can I brush it on the frame and cab?
Thank you
Hi Paul, new to your channel. Watched a few of your shows. You are doing a real nice job on your restoration !! Is the raptor liner fire proof or safe near your exhaust ? Just curious. Thumbs Up !!!
Lots of guys use it and haven’t heard of any problems
@Rons are-Creations >Ron, I have a new box next to me in July 2021. On inside lid it states: #1, 125 sq. ft. in 2 coats. #2, Provides a tough, mechanical damage and stain resistant surface. #3, Protects against rust, corrosion and extreme temperatures. Remember, this is a catalyzed product, not a rubberized spray-on can stuff!
Guy/Gals are doing the entire vehicle. Some buy the “Tint-able” version that is milky looking. But only an auto paint store should mix the toner, enamel resins, enamel dryer to complete a proper colorant that will dry/fade somewhat. That’s my 2 cents, but adjusted for today’s wood price inflation, it’s $4.13 worth of advice!
Is that a filter/regulator combo on your gun? Did it also come from HD? Maybe I'll just get the 2 can set of Raptor Liner, since you did a bigger truck in one.
Just a regulator. I think I did get that from HD too
Hey great job man!!! One question on your rear cab supports, are they the same wide i got a kit that had all those parts but a has just about to replace them and they seem to be to wide.. did you run to this problem?? the length is whatever you want to replace that is ok but the wide was really different..
Yea they were wide. Just trimmed them to fit.
With it being 2 years now, what’s your opinion on the raptor lining and your process (other chemicals/materials)? Would you do anything different if doing it again today?
Did you beed/sand blast this bottom of the truck to get it that clean looking or just pressure washing and alot of wire wheeling ?
Im probly buying an 86 G-body this weekend if its not too rusted out and may wanna do something like this but without taking the entire car apart like this truck its gonna be alot of work on my back with rust falling in my face!
Thanks for posting!!Can you share your to do list?
It is on my Instagram
How did you paint the frame ?
What size of air compressor are you running and does it support everything that you have done so far?
My compressor is very undersized. I have to be very patient with painting especially
Paul. I am working on a1967 C10 and have a question about the bed sides. Do you have a video taking apart the inner and outer bedside on a fleet side bed. I want to be able to clean and paint. I can cut the welds around the wheel well but not sure about where the tail gate bolts on. Once I cut the welds does the inner come out or is there difficulties with how it mounts to back bed post and under upper bed sides
I didn’t completely disassemble the bed sides
What's your compressor set up?
Nothing fancy. 21 gallon, 2.5hp from harbor freight
Are you gonna use the same set up to paint the truck, if so you think it can keep up? Or are you going to rattle can it with the same gold you used on the bedsides?
Rattle can for now. Might do a single stage paint someday if I get bored. I’m full on the “get it running and driving” train right now
Hey bud I need help if u are in Detroit area?
I’m not