Best DIY filter for your 3D printer: solving 3d printing smell and fumes
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
- Printing technical filaments?
Sick of smelly fumes or harmful particles?
This Bentobox will help you decrease the smell fused filament emits and reduce the amount of chemicals in the air, thanks to carbon pellets and a hepa filter.
Printables project, huge thanks to creator thrutheframe:
www.printables.com/it/model/2...
BOM list, casing & hardware:
4020 fans: amzn.to/3PKSidu
T tap connector: amzn.to/3riJTnC
PETG for the casing: amzn.to/46G1Exe
Magnets: amzn.to/3rh0sQL
Threaded Inserts: amzn.to/44xxWsr
consumables:
hepa filters: amzn.to/3PJQWjc
carbon pellets: west3d.com/products/premium-a...
optional:
Wire: amzn.to/3r7NCnN
Video chapters:
00:00 Technical materials dark side
00:57 How small are UFP and VOCs?
01:08 Does your printer emit UFP and VOCs?
01:59 Solutions from the community
02:31 Single pass vs recirculating filter
02:45 The best DIY solution
02:58 The pros of the BentoBox
03:45 Supplying power
04:25 Cost of the filter
04:51 Assembly & best practices
05:56 How effective is it?
06:36 Personal feedback - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I just want something that I can use to print in my studio apartment without getting cancer or asthma...
Get a whole room hepa filter and put the printer in a room you don't spend time in. The UFPA are what cause the "cold" like symptoms. And as far as we know ASA doesn't release any confirmed carcinogens.
Go to Lowe’s, buy acrylic or glass panels. Make a box with silicone sealer for the edges. Make a notch at the bottom for power, a hole for a tube where the funesnwill be sucked out your window with a tiny fan at the end
@@SAMZIRRA wow, I never would have thought of that!
Only one issue : I don't live in America and don't have a Lowe's nearby.
Oh, also, it's winter, so it might not be a great idea to be pumping heated air outside because... You know... Wasting energy and stuff.
Oh, and I almost forgot, I don't actually have a window in my apartment? Only a big sliding window-door.
So I really think an air filter would be more reasonable
@@Klaevin Air filters are a nice idea but do they actually work? If they do just get a big air purifier.
@@Potatobitz I am thinking of the same thing to get some air circulation in my basement. And it's not overkill at all!
Thank you, I am glad TH-cam recommended this video and I am going to build some soon.
Thanks for posting this!
Thanks for this video im happy that i was able to add a PMW to adjust the speed of 40×40×20 fan ❤😊
It would have been great to see some detail of the wiring to the power adapter. I’m struggling with wiring with the T tap wire adapter you linked.
Thank you for your video, great job
Thank you! There's just so little coverage on this important topic! Btw, if I understood your correclty, you mentioned this solution reduced the fumes in a room with multiple printers, down to undetectable level. How did you measure the air quality, and did you use any external ventilation specifically for this room/printers?
This is an absolute game changer! Thank you!!
Sure is!💪🏼
I just bought 2 X1C’s and want to add this to them. While researching carbon pellets on Amazon (because I’m lazy and order everything from Amazon) the manufacturers are vague on whether their product is acid free.
One solution I found is you can soak the pellets in a solution of 1 gallon of water/ 1 tablespoon of baking soda overnight and then dry the pellets in a dehydrator before using them. This should also eliminate the dust also.
Building one this weekend - thank you!
Way to go!👌🏼
This is the concept I've been looking for! Why isn't replaceable carbon with separate pleated (furnace) filters a 'thing' for diode lasers? Even a DIY BOFA 350 kit is too expensive for casual and side hustle startup $. I'm able to vent outside, so not as worried about smoke, mostly just stink. Thanks for any words of wisdom, and for the informative video.
Thanks for the video! Could you please explain how to wire it to the printer's power supply? Also, what material have you used for the shell (given the temperatures inside)? ABS?
Amazing content from an amazing man🔥
😂 Thanks man!
enclosed printer. exhaust carbon filter or recirrculated fitler(the filter), good ventilated rom and/or air purifier. done
Just what I’m looking for. Would you run an extractor fan also to keep ambient temp down and protect power supply from getting too hot? If so have you found a neat solution for this without creating a mess of wires?
Also do you have a way to smartly control power to the hepa filter, perhaps temperature switch?
Thanks again.
You can use a soldering iron to insert the brass threaded inserts you just need to be careful of the soldering tip height to avoid piercing through the 3D-printed parts as you are using the very small brass insert in this video for your 3D-printed parts.
I can't argue against doing whatever you can do to make the air you breathe healthy and clean, but the only real solution is putting your printer in an enclosure and exhausting the gas outdoors. Some resin printers have covers with a hole built in so you can add an exhaust.
All you need besides the enclosure is a small fan with a connection to some power source like a usb to 3 or4 pin and that little Noctua fan controller. You can print flanges and you'll need to source some small hoses. You can then, depending on budget, get some plywood or plexi and make something to cover up your window opening that the hose can stick in to vent outside. You only need the smallest amount of airflow to move the air outside. Casement crank windows are another story. You're likely gonna need a big piece to stick in the window.
I’m thinking about ducting my Bambu out the window which is just behind the printer. Only issue is I’d like to turn the chamber fan on after a print but can’t work out the gcode 😬
surprised it wasn't designed with blower motors, which has higher static pressure but lower flow than fans, someone did post a remix with blowers!
Yep. If i recall the original designer did some test comparison that made him lean towards the 4020
Thank you for the video sir
Here to help printing smarter!👀
How do you run those power wires into the bambu lab closure from outside? Just bought one for my machine. Thanks!
There are a couple of factory holes - small gauge wires fit perfectly
hi . can you tell me where can i find the toolhead at the 1:17 you use on voron . thanks
Would it benefit to maybe put two of them in a printer or could that have a negative effect?
Do you have any measurement results from room before and after filter installation?
Odor for now. Looking to get a decent meter but they are $500 and up…Cheap ones aren’t accurate enough
I have cheaper meter that cost around 140e. I got this for my electronics hobby. I use some chemicals for cleaning flux off pcb and I wanted to see how long those fumes were staying on room. I live small apartment so my hobby area is also where I spend my time.
This can show if room air quality level is ok for long term use. Range in this meter is not enough to do checking if you need personal protective equipment when you do short visit in room.
Scale end where it was not recommended to be in same room over 1 months. TVOC range ended 9.9mg/m3. For long term exposure it should be under 1 mg/m3.
Experimented a lot with filters. You need room for air compression. On this solution the back pressure will push 80% air back through fan. See how real filters work, they are all round, have filters all around and a lot of empty space inside. I made two 140mm, no resin fumes anymore, you can feel the air coming out
Would love to see a video on your filter solution 🙏
How did you place two 140mm fans in the x1c?
@@3DPrintingForMoney my guess would be a centrifugal fan. There are relatively thin 140mm versions out there.
This design pulls air through the filter for this reason. The build instructions are very clear about this.
Do not print stuff like ABS or ASA indoors without proper ventilation of your printing space. Full stop. Filters are not enough. Ventilate your space or don't do it.
what does "proper ventilation" mean?
@@mfrederiksonextraction to send the exhausr air outdoors
Hello, amazing invention, thanks for doing this. - I have been looking for carbon pellets and I cant find anything in the UK at the moment. I was hoping you might have any suggestions? The problem is up to now, any shop I found is abroad and you pay double the price just for the shipping. Thanks!
Thank you! Check the voron discord local to the UK, they may have direct contacts with reputable UK sellers.
Aquarium shops!! Used extensively in tropical and marine fish aquariums.
howsthis handle resin fumes etc?
I wonder why 2 40mm fans have been used. The first section of the box (air intake) is already huge enough to complement one 80mm or even 120 mm PC fan that would be much quieter but moves a lot more air.
The fans dont have to be laying in that chamber. A bigger 120 mm fan could also stand and intake air.
Otherwise good comparison.
4020 probably for space constraints in the x1c chamber, bigger fans are viable…there should be some mods on printables
I’d really like to be able to turn on the chamber fan to 100% for a set time after I print ASA or ABS. I want to duct it from the back to the window but I can’t work out the gcode 😫
You can put the printer in a fire resistant enclosure & vent that to your window.
What kind of hepa filters are you using and how do you know when to replace? I read somewhere you need merv 17 filters to clean the air completely of the stuff produced when 3d printing
Merv17 are hard to find in suitable dimensions. The hepa filters linked are for “dust scrubbing” and bigger particles, the adsorption is taken care by the activated carbon pellets. Depending on material printed, 100-300h, the lesser for the technical materials. I made an experiment going over the 300h rule with a green asa and the hepa had a slight green tone after that time frame..
You mention creating negative pressure in the print chamber and exhausting the air to the outside. If you are printing a filament such as ABS that needs to maintain a certain temperature in the print chamber, wouldn't venting be counter-intuitive?
Good question. The negative pressure should be very low - just enough to keep any leaks in your enclose moving air in the right direction. On my Voron 2.4 I run the exhaust fan at 10% to 15% speed, and chamber temps (heated by bed only) stay around 50°-60°C for ABS and ASA.
I was hoping you would show how the wiring was routed to the outside. I have mine completely build using 24 volts fans but at first glance I don't see any holes.
if you have a X1C, you have a factory small hole in the bottom left corner of the printer. i have + and - cables going out from there.
i used a T tap connector, to have only 2 cables instead of 4 leaving the bentobox. less mess, and you can place an external switch to decide when to turn on or off the filter
@3DPrintingForMoney ok that's what I was thinking but I'm not near the x1c. I have all the parts to run the wire.
@@3DPrintingForMoney Thanks and wanted to add this is the first video that even shows the filter installed in a printer.
I actually found out that if you are printing on the X1 carbon once you slice the plate it prints properly no need to change any settings.
Am I missing something, I've gone to the prusa files and downloaded them. However the inner carbon box seems to be missing along with the pellit shelfs, I take it you was supplied a complete kit with these already? Also the .3mf seems to be corrupt.
Hey there, the inner carbon box is in the CMAG_stl folder. Let me know if you find it. ;)
@@3DPrintingForMoney The grill file is missing. You are supposed to print 4 grills but they are not there.
I see them in the cmag file section. Instructions on page 6, plate 3 on how to do it. It is called “net infill x4.stl”
media.printables.com/media/prints/272525/stls/5723835_3a6b2fbf-f839-490b-9eb4-fe4198437b20_80d2172a-c0ee-4039-b49b-852c72512e9e/thumbs/cover/180x180/png/net_infill-for-prusaslicer_preview.webp
@@3DPrintingForMoney Ah, I should have checked the PDF first. There are settings you need to apply to get them to not be solid squares. Once I added the honeycomb infill and other various slicer settings they now show the proper grill holes. Thanks!
Here to help!
Any experience with the noise of these 4020 fans? Is it comparable to the cooling fans that sit on the extruder of a 3D printer? I want to use the bento to vent my enclosure into the environment to prevent overheating inside but if I have a noisy fan outside I could leave the enclosure open from the beginning.
Noise level with listed 4020 is way lower than regular fans, almost “silent”. In my print shop without looking at the on/off switch i can’t tell if they are on or off
So what happens with all the toxic air that you can't smell? Ya know, the stuff that's actually killing people slowly as their respiratory system has a slow death. Does anyone think that maybe everyone needs an air quality monitor before assuming they are safe? There is not a single person who seems to care about this and I'm finding it quite bizarre.
By putting the carbon section last before the air discharge port, aren’t you inviting carbon dust into the printer? If true, this suggests that the hepa filter should be last instead. Please comment on this. Update: A Google search turned up several articles from filter experts suggesting that the position of the HEPA and carbon in a filter stack would not materially change the filter effectiveness. They also offered that filter medium in a stack should go from coarse to fine. None of what I found addressed the dust from carbon. my conclusion is that I'm going to swap the order just for not having to deal with possible carbon dust getting into the printer. I also found several youtube videos showing people thoroughly rinsing the carbon pellets before loading them into a filter housing. At the start, the water looked pretty dark but eventually went clear. This all makes sense to me.
Good quality pellets have very low dust, if it is a concern you can always “dry-run” the filter out of the printer for a couple of hours to get rid of possible particles. Before putting a new load i always tap the pellet box on a paper towel to assess dust levels
@@3DPrintingForMoney thanks for the reply and your suggestion. But why would it not be best to put the particle filter last?
It is common practice to place a HEPA filter before and after the carbon in an air filter. This can be seen in respirator cartridges.
I think having the HEPA filter first and then carbon is better, because the HEPA filter will remove small particles and then carbon removes odors and such, that are actually smaller particles than the particles that the HEPA filter removes. Even if the spacing between the carbon in this design is larger than the HEPA filter, the carbon still removes smaller particles in the way that active carbon works, i.e. adsorption (yes, with a 'd', not absorption), so it is actually going from coarse to fine. If you'd put the carbon first, then maybe it would quicker get covered with larger particles that the HEPA filter filters which would reduce the carbon effectiveness.
I wonder if a carbon filter sponge would work equally well, or even better, than the carbon chunks used here.
I’m a little confused shouldn’t the filters be placed carbon first then heap? But I’m guessing cause it’s a recirculating it doesn’t really matter.
Think of the filters like strainers. If you put the strainer with smaller mesh first, it will clog up with all the bigger particles. ;)
@@3DPrintingForMoney Alveo3D that makes the carbon filter for the Prusa enclosure, among others, has the carbon filter first and then HEPA.
How does this compare to the Voron Nevermore solution, which seems more compact?
The micro is more compact. There is a mini bentobox on printable from the designer that is comparable!
@@3DPrintingForMoney since the micro/mini are more compact, do you anticipate this regular Bento box to be capturing even more? Or does everything depend on the quality of the seal, for the most part?
Is there any reason why I can't just buy activated carbon pellets from amazon? Many products there, mostly for fish tanks.
Most aren’t acid free, i would spend a little more and don’t worry about corrosion
@@3DPrintingForMoney OK, thank you.
Have you seen/ tried the new mars mate?
Hey, did not, i usually wait at least 6mo before trying/changing equipment. There is a trend where first buyers are used as beta testers. :(
Im waiting for reviews on that unit before buying a 3d printer, hopefully some will come soon@@3DPrintingForMoney
I'm gana order a small grow tent for mine and blow the air outside.
Trouble with that is venting air to the outside of the printer enclosure also vents the heat out. For many filaments, high enclosure temps are a must.
Thanks for the tip! Luckily I thought of this. I got my tent and everything set up this last weekend. The tent is very well sealed so my plan is to let it print with no airflow and then vent all the fumes out after the print just before I open the tent up. I don't have a heated printing mat so the added heat will be nice to retain. It will be fun to see how this works after I get home from work.@@imacmill
@@retroguardian4802 Have you been able to test this setup? If so, how were the results?
Worked great! I actually ended up buying 3 more printers and doing the same. I only exhaust the heat after the print. I did buy a variable motor speed controller as I only had a big 6" duct blower but just decided to vent the particles before opening so not to effect the temp of the print. Any other questions just ask. I'm new and just learned how to do everything from cad to print so it is fresh on the mind. @@budoboy1977
Is there a link to the power adapter?
Came here for this as well haha
I can't seem to find what size magnets this uses
Hey Bob, 4x2mm magnets
hi when i drop the carbon filter nets on the build plate the just look like solid pieces even if i open the file in onshape it just still looks solid has anyone else experienced this or can you let me know what i might be getting wrong.
You have to set top and bottom layers=0 ad use grid or honeycomb infill (30-50%) ;)
@@3DPrintingForMoney hi thanks for helping me with this, and no I didn't do any of that but I just tried it and now it looks great so thanks again for the help 👍
No worries, happy i could help a fellow 3d printer-er! 👌🏼
If you do this with an enclosure and vent to the outside e.g. through a window, do you even need a filter at that point?
Depends if you want to dump your trash into the public or not.
If you vent to outdoors you are good to go.
@@Jacksparrow4986 LOL! What a dumb thing to say! It's not going to hurt anyone outside. WTF is wrong with your brain?
I'm considering connecting my enclosure directly to the ventilation system to suck the air outside, and/or using a circulating system like the Bento box. One possible positive effect of the circulating system is that it will contain the warm air in the enclosure if you need it for the material you are printing. My printer is in a 16°C room, so if I ventilate outside during printing, it will mean it will draw in the cold air from the room into the enclosure, which I might want to avoid. Maybe the ideal would be to use both, so that when you need to contain the heat, you use the circulating filter and else ventilate outside with negative pressure.
Yeah, once all the toxic particles go outside.. they disappear! like magic. No one ever has to deal with them again. Eeesh. people with low brain power are why cancer keeps getting worse. can't see it, doesn't exist. google up some pictures of particulate matter in air under a microscope. We are literally doomed with all the crap in the air now.
in order to have a negative pressure in printer enclosure you need fresh air entry at a controlled point , One to not create a draft and two to maintain a fresh air to recycle with saturated enclosure air. Also vent to external sources not into a direct room. Even if "Filtered" it still has byproduct that passes through. Safety Third people
I started making my comment above before yours and got distracted or I would've put it in response here :)
absolutely!
We run negative pressure on our woodworking CNC enclosures and also on our VMC (running Renshape eg modeling board..urethane board is nasty stuff in the lungs). Pull is done via a Frankenstien’d 3hp 3 stage collector w a final output merv 15 filter. That aside, to the point of the above comment, our enclosures are fitted for 20x25 merv 10/12 (whichever is in stock) on the inlet air side. Don’t starve your vac pull. For the retentively inclined, anemometers are fun and you can find yourself chasing the Rabbit real fast 😏
One of the problems is you need to keep the chamber temperature up with certain materials. Exhausting the warm air and pulling in fresh air will work against that unless you preheat the intake air. A recirculating design like the bento box is just recirculating the existing air already inside the chamber thus it stays constant.
@@JoJa015 in addition to the CNC solution mentioned in my previous post, which does not vent outside; we do 3D printing as well. w our old resin printers (our first FDM, a MK4 arrives this Tuesday) we vented directly outside via an exhaust hood for years.
We were literally talking a couple of hours ago about filtering when we setup the mini-farm chamber(s) in a few weeks. Note, we’re just doing PLA on the FDM for now, but, we want to filter the fumes and other little nasties from the resin printers that are coming. So we’re likely going w a multi-stage shop-built activated-carbon closed loop filter. Likely issue will be too much heat - the problem we encountered when we tried a similar approach w our old resin printers. Given we’re In Texas, too much heat (and humidity, we run dehumidifiers in our resin casting area) is what we face the majority of the year in our part of the state. Some type of room heat exchanger or other temp control solution might be needed to help maintain a proper print chamber temp. We’ll just have to see how it goes.
can this be used as chamber heating too?
It doesn’t heat anything
It circulates air, so it will increase the internal temp a little. but very little compared to a heating element
You can just add a PTC heating element.
Does this fit a k1!
Good question..i would mock up some cardboard and see if the bed moves freely. I don’t own any of the k1 series
The Bambu Labs X1C has a carbon filter in it. All you have to do is install a Hepa Filter to the outside of the fan assisted outlet. There are several models for this on Printables.
It absolutely does! but it is single pass..internal recirculating filters grants higher adsorption rates.
Plus abs/asa etc benefit a lot from a hot chamber and printing with exhausting with fan on decreases internal chamber temperatures. Can be turned on only when print has finished but then cooling factor for these materials isn’t optimal. They *need* to be brought to room temperature gently to retain part strength
I prefer the 5015 version
This is the reason I only print with PLA. Even then I have an air monitor and my VOC's are in the middle range which is not good. I print in a basement with no ventilation at all. I have went to PLA plus, and that might be the cause of the higher VOC's. I'm looking for good ventilation ideas.
I largely PLA, my machines are inside enclosures with a carbon air filter and the room has two air purifiers. I'm always looking for ways to improve the safety side. Each enclosure also has fire safety devices (Wham Bam - The Cloud). If I do need to use PETG or other materials, I have an expensive BOFA 3D Printer Filtration system I plug in. Print safe!
Nevermore StealthMax is arguably a better solution
In that case would you mind arguing that ? Because I am looking at the different filter designs out there and for me it is almost impossible to judge which system has what benefits and drawbacks. Because no one ever does a good comparison.
Are we gonna look back one day and wonder why everyone was so cool with venting those fumes and microplastics out into the world. Isn't that like dumping our trash in the ocean cuz we don't live in the ocean lmao
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