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The carbon filter traps VOCs, the HEPA filter traps particles. Both are in use here in this solution.

Voron 2.4

Yeah Canada in rough. A lack kit on etsy (panels/printed parts/table) is in the $300 range and prusa enclosure pushing $500 before shipping. Sorry to hear so

Look at the box, it literally says carbon on it. Not only does it have an integrated activated carbon filter, the Bambu printers it's advertised for already have carbon filters in addition to whatever the bento can do.

I suppose your comment was for another video..bentobox has carbon pellets. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I LOVED the video, told me everything i wanted to hear and CLEARLY showed the hepa filter after use, shame on you, sucked on too many fumes you dont know wtf your saying

You are a special kind of stupid, aren't you. How about you watch the video through before you open your big, dumb mouth.

@@o-manthehuman7867 "the Bambu printers it's advertised for already have carbon filters" Those are probably there for marketing and to remove worrying smells. A filter that's sufficient for VOCs for an extended amount of time wouldn't fit into an enclosed Bambu printer. I wouldn't trust profit-oriented manufacturers with claims about VOC filtering without actual measurements. HEPA particle filters are standardized and even there the filter performance can vary a lot.

Came in to say that, plus it will look much better

Already tried. They vibrate.

If not sure, i would avoid and route external cables to the bentobox

Mine pulls air from the bottom. Just reverse the fans.

The simple right thing is to put the printer in an enclosure and extract all the fumes through a funnel out the window. Don't need a filter if there's nothing to filter. Alternatively you'll want a good particle filter (like HEPA), a good(!) carbon filter for VOCs, and reduce the printer nozzle temperature because higher temperatures massively increase the amount of emissions. And if you can, try to not be in the same room as the printer.

Mechanical properties and PETG is more resistant to UV and much better if you want longevity

John, when printing ASA/ABS inside the x1c, it reaches 50C. Pla will degrade and might cause issues.

So best way still to exhaust outside?

Right, and this problem is amplified when you realize the filaments with potentially harmful exhaust tend to be the same ones which need the high temp enclosure.

Vent after printing?

@@youtubehandlesux Yeah, but I've yet to encounter a printer that doesn't leak. If you kick on an ABS print your house will reak within 30mins. The recirculating filter option here solves that. It wouldn't hurt to vent to outside before opening the door though.

Just run the vent fan at very low speed during printing. Just enough to maintain negative pressure in the print chamber so no VOCs can escape. After your print is done, you can crank it up.

You can heat up the air in (or coming into) the printer enclosure. Sure it'll use more energy but still easier than building a 100% airtight enclosure.

Why??

Hey Bob, 4x2mm magnets

i wouldnt risk it. lookup what acid cleaned carbon do to your rods and rails.

Yessir. Heat soak is mandatory, cartesian or corexy

In that case would you mind arguing that ? Because I am looking at the different filter designs out there and for me it is almost impossible to judge which system has what benefits and drawbacks. Because no one ever does a good comparison.

Better doesn’t always mean doable. Max or S don’t fit in the bambulab frame

what does "proper ventilation" mean?

@@saintjohnny45extraction to send the exhausr air outdoors

Or, better yet, just get air quality sensors and respond accordingly based on the air quality you actually get in real world use. Proper filtration can *_absolutely_* be sufficient if it's scaled appropriately, but you have no way of knowing if it is/isn't scaled appropriately without getting a proper air quality sensor. Many filtration systems like the Nevermore StealthMax (specifically the "smart" variant) have these sensors builtin and can adjust their fan curves to keep the VOC and particulate counts low within the chamber, and the chamber isn't going to leak a higher pollutant % than it actually has inside of itself so if you can keep the chamber at safe levels you are certainly keeping the rest of the room at safe levels. (and, even if you are still worried about leaks, good filtration systems have a way of venting small amounts in order to generate negative pressure and stop leaks without venting so much that maintaining internal chamber temps is hard) Just actually check, blindly assuming the worst possible case is a completely stupid move and will lead to increase costs even while you have no way of knowing if it's actually solving the problem since, again, *_you're not checking._* Get a sensor, see whether or not you have a problem, if you *_do_* have a problem, solve it. Blindly assuming that yes, you do have a problem and, yes, this one particular course of action will 100% definitely solve it, is incredibly stupid. It'd be like someone paying for a full tank of gas everytime they get in their car to drive anywhere instead of actually looking at their gauge to see how much, if any, they need to refuel. Sure, technically you can be 90% confident that you'll never run out, but 1 : you're paying way more than you need to and wasting way more than you need to, and 2 : it's still not even providing you with certainty, if you have a punctured tank and are leaking gas then even buying a full tank everytime you get in your car won't guarantee that you're full, because it's just leaking out as you pour it in. If you want certainty you already need to look at your gas gauge, so just do that to begin with and save yourself the time and money. You'll save time and money solving the problem, you'll be alerted if the problem arises again, and you won't be in a situation where you have to blindly hope that your solution worked.

​@robonator2945 Most affordable air quality sensors are inadequate for detecting all the possible gases and particulates (depending on material) though, from what I hear. What sensor would actually give you peace of mind?

​@@cinnac0n this isn't a lab, you just need a rough idea of the general concentrations. There are absolutely affordable sensors that achieve that standard and could (and should) be integrated into printers.

Thank you! Check the voron discord local to the UK, they may have direct contacts with reputable UK sellers.

Aquarium shops!! Used extensively in tropical and marine fish aquariums.

Did you find some? Also in UK, is that right about aquarium shops??

I largely PLA, my machines are inside enclosures with a carbon air filter and the room has two air purifiers. I'm always looking for ways to improve the safety side. Each enclosure also has fire safety devices (Wham Bam - The Cloud). If I do need to use PETG or other materials, I have an expensive BOFA 3D Printer Filtration system I plug in. Print safe!

Good. Pla is still plastic after all and releases its own harmful stuff.

Hey there, the inner carbon box is in the CMAG_stl folder. Let me know if you find it. ;)

@@3DPrintingForMoney The grill file is missing. You are supposed to print 4 grills but they are not there.

I see them in the cmag file section. Instructions on page 6, plate 3 on how to do it. It is called “net infill x4.stl” media.printables.com/media/prints/272525/stls/5723835_3a6b2fbf-f839-490b-9eb4-fe4198437b20_80d2172a-c0ee-4039-b49b-852c72512e9e/thumbs/cover/180x180/png/net_infill-for-prusaslicer_preview.webp

@@3DPrintingForMoney Ah, I should have checked the PDF first. There are settings you need to apply to get them to not be solid squares. Once I added the honeycomb infill and other various slicer settings they now show the proper grill holes. Thanks!

Here to help!

Good quality pellets have very low dust, if it is a concern you can always “dry-run” the filter out of the printer for a couple of hours to get rid of possible particles. Before putting a new load i always tap the pellet box on a paper towel to assess dust levels

@@3DPrintingForMoney thanks for the reply and your suggestion. But why would it not be best to put the particle filter last?

It is common practice to place a HEPA filter before and after the carbon in an air filter. This can be seen in respirator cartridges.

I think having the HEPA filter first and then carbon is better, because the HEPA filter will remove small particles and then carbon removes odors and such, that are actually smaller particles than the particles that the HEPA filter removes. Even if the spacing between the carbon in this design is larger than the HEPA filter, the carbon still removes smaller particles in the way that active carbon works, i.e. adsorption (yes, with a 'd', not absorption), so it is actually going from coarse to fine. If you'd put the carbon first, then maybe it would quicker get covered with larger particles that the HEPA filter filters which would reduce the carbon effectiveness. I wonder if a carbon filter sponge would work equally well, or even better, than the carbon chunks used here.

I reversed the fans and have it pull through the carbon first from the bottom.

Depends if you want to dump your trash into the public or not.

If you vent to outdoors you are good to go.

@@Jacksparrow4986 LOL! What a dumb thing to say! It's not going to hurt anyone outside. WTF is wrong with your brain?

I'm considering connecting my enclosure directly to the ventilation system to suck the air outside, and/or using a circulating system like the Bento box. One possible positive effect of the circulating system is that it will contain the warm air in the enclosure if you need it for the material you are printing. My printer is in a 16°C room, so if I ventilate outside during printing, it will mean it will draw in the cold air from the room into the enclosure, which I might want to avoid. Maybe the ideal would be to use both, so that when you need to contain the heat, you use the circulating filter and else ventilate outside with negative pressure.

​@@joeking433 how are you not harming anyone? Do you think the particles disappear?

Most aren’t acid free, i would spend a little more and don’t worry about corrosion

@@3DPrintingForMoney OK, thank you.

Good question. The negative pressure should be very low - just enough to keep any leaks in your enclose moving air in the right direction. On my Voron 2.4 I run the exhaust fan at 10% to 15% speed, and chamber temps (heated by bed only) stay around 50°-60°C for ABS and ASA.

Merv17 are hard to find in suitable dimensions. The hepa filters linked are for “dust scrubbing” and bigger particles, the adsorption is taken care by the activated carbon pellets. Depending on material printed, 100-300h, the lesser for the technical materials. I made an experiment going over the 300h rule with a green asa and the hepa had a slight green tone after that time frame..

HEPA is comparable to MERV 17-20 as far as I know. And no, even HEPA filters don't filter VOCs, only particles.