Very sweet board and process. Fin box work and glossing are amazing 🤩 …..I’m starting my #5 board, a 9’2” and want to try to get it glossy. Have been cheating with gloss spray but surface not very smooth on first few. Thx 🙏🏼
good video I have a question, when putting double layer of fiberglass in some parts, the color of the glaze is darker in those parts? and another question, at the end of the glazing red layer, you add another layer of fiberglass without color above the previous one? Thanks
juan pablo niggemeyer yes. Think of more saturation = deeper stronger color. So more fiberglass = more color depth. The clear fiberglass portion of the video 2/3 in is fin installation. The clear fiberglass gives strength and holds the fin boxes in. Final portion is a sanding coat brushed on for final sanding. Hope this answers your questions.
@@alexn1184 I glassed boards for many years, back in my youth. LOL You are mostly correct. After the board is hot coated (after lamination), it is sanded. If you won't a gloss polished board, which this one has, it gets another coat of resin (glossing resin), sanded out to very fine grit, then polished w/ a buffer. I've probably done at least 1000 gloss polishes. Always hated doing them, but it sure does make the boards look good. It also exposes bad laminators.
Good morning, complements for your videos, very nice and useful !!! I'm restoring an old kite surfboard, made of resin. At the moment I have carried out numerous repairs with epoxy, fiberglass and mocrosfers, as a result the surface is aesthetically very unpleasant. The original resin was transparent and graphics were integrated between layers. I made the same graphics with the PC, so I can print them by ink jet plotters. At the moment I purchased epoxy and fiberglass to re-laminate the whole board over the existing layers. I don't care about the weight, I wish it will be very strong. I also bought a colorant for resins, white. If you can, I need some advice to finish the work, to give the surf an aesthetic aspect similar to the original: To give a white background, so as to cancel all the remaining signs of repairs, which is better than the following procedures? Procedure 1) - First lamiantion using only one layer of fiberglass and white colored resin - Second lamination with the next layers of fiber glass and trasparent resin and interposing between the layers the printed graphics Procedure 2) - I spread the white resin with brush all over the surface to erase the signs of repairs - Lamination with all the fiberglass layers, interposing the printed graphics Also, do you think for the realization of graphics it is possible to use glossy lucid paper (the kind used for techinchal drawings and china) or if you must use rice paper? Thank you Andrew
Hey bud. Sounds like your doing a cool project. Restoring surfboards is a whole different ball game then new glass jobs. Couldn’t give you a solid answer to your question, but some trial and error will probably be going down. I have always used rice paper for laminates.
![Surfboard Glassing [Longboard]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nf6qWFt5R7s/mqdefault.jpg)
![Surfboard Glassing [Longboard]](/img/tr.png)
Beautiful, it gleams!
Very sweet board and process. Fin box work and glossing are amazing 🤩 …..I’m starting my #5 board, a 9’2” and want to try to get it glossy. Have been cheating with gloss spray but surface not very smooth on first few. Thx 🙏🏼
Beautifullly done.
Nice!!!!
Nice to watch, I made boards for 5 years in my late teens, early 20s.. how can this guy laminate without wearing a respirator??!!
No need for respirator with epoxy
@@zachfetter5710 Epoxy is substantially safer than polyester resin, but a respirator is still a good idea, especially if you make a lot of boards.
good video
I have a question, when putting double layer of fiberglass in some parts, the color of the glaze is darker in those parts? and another question, at the end of the glazing red layer, you add another layer of fiberglass without color above the previous one?
Thanks
juan pablo niggemeyer yes. Think of more saturation = deeper stronger color. So more fiberglass = more color depth.
The clear fiberglass portion of the video 2/3 in is fin installation. The clear fiberglass gives strength and holds the fin boxes in.
Final portion is a sanding coat brushed on for final sanding. Hope this answers your questions.
@@alexn1184 I glassed boards for many years, back in my youth. LOL You are mostly correct. After the board is hot coated (after lamination), it is sanded. If you won't a gloss polished board, which this one has, it gets another coat of resin (glossing resin), sanded out to very fine grit, then polished w/ a buffer. I've probably done at least 1000 gloss polishes. Always hated doing them, but it sure does make the boards look good. It also exposes bad laminators.
Good morning, complements for your videos, very nice and useful !!!
I'm restoring an old
kite surfboard, made of resin.
At the moment I have
carried out numerous repairs with epoxy, fiberglass and mocrosfers,
as a result the surface is aesthetically very unpleasant.
The original resin
was transparent and graphics were integrated between layers.
I made the same
graphics with the PC, so I can print them by ink jet plotters.
At the moment I
purchased epoxy and fiberglass to re-laminate the whole board over
the existing layers. I don't care about the weight, I wish it will be
very strong.
I also bought a
colorant for resins, white.
If you can, I need
some advice to finish the work, to give the surf an aesthetic aspect
similar to the original:
To give a white
background, so as to cancel all the remaining signs of repairs, which
is better than the following procedures?
Procedure 1)
- First lamiantion
using only one layer of fiberglass and white colored resin
- Second lamination
with the next layers of fiber glass and trasparent resin and
interposing between the layers the printed graphics
Procedure 2)
- I spread the white
resin with brush all over the surface to erase the signs of repairs
- Lamination with
all the fiberglass layers, interposing the printed graphics
Also, do you think
for the realization of graphics it is possible to use glossy lucid
paper (the kind used for techinchal drawings and china) or if you
must use rice paper?
Thank you
Andrew
Hey bud. Sounds like your doing a cool project. Restoring surfboards is a whole different ball game then new glass jobs. Couldn’t give you a solid answer to your question, but some trial and error will probably be going down. I have always used rice paper for laminates.
Was that a EPS or pu blank.? Looks amazing
It’s a PU blank
What type of marker did you use to sign the board with I cant figure it out
Posca
Usually any water based paint pen will work
artwork
wow it looked like a huge tongue lol, great work