This man is a master at his craft, and is generous with his knowledge. Even though I will never do this, it has been relaxing and informative to watch. Thank you Matt and Fiberglass Florida!
Love how this board is coming out! Matt you have a easy going way about you that makes it so enjoyable to watch you work! This board is a true masterpiece, and Im sure it will be turning many heads at the beach. Thanks for your time in producing these vids...
slim pickins he really is great at explaining each step and his process. We have one more video on the way of this board and it’s how to polish! It looks so good after it’s polished
Great video. Underemphasizes the importance of a steady, patient hand in laying a clean pinline that has appropriate curvature and consistent thickness. "Anyone" can do it, but it takes a cool head to lay down tape evenly. There are tricks to scribing a line to follow, but where there is a cloth inlay, the pinliner has already got the underlying path to follow. I'll add a tip from a long time ago... After you tape the pinline and burnish it down with a stick or whatever, take some uncatalyzed lam resin and smear a thin coat where the pinline will be, using one finger. If there are any creases in the tape that would otherwise allow a "feather" edge of resin to seep under the tape, the quickly curing smear will seal those. I used suncure lam resin for this... Then show the board some sunshine to cure that smear coat, and brush on the pinline resin. BUT BEFORE THAT, I don't recall Matt telling us the grit he used to sand the hotcoat... I sanded hotcoats with a soft pad and 60 grit (pretty coarse, yeah I know) but in the area of the pinline and sometimes over the entire board, I'd hand sand with 220 wet, and make sure to wash off all the slurry created. 220 gives a smooth, even satin finish that will present well to the tape. I GOTTA SAY... Do NOT expose unprotected skin to acetone, ever. You see, acetone has the peculiar ability to take whatever is on your skin and leach it through your skin... As if acetone weren't bad enough (and it is), any crud or resin on your skin will be taken through to your bloodstream, through your circulatory system where it will muck up (technical term) your brain, liver and kidneys. One more time... DO NOT expose unprotected skin to acetone. Use snugly fitting nitrile or latex gloves, at least on the hand that will handle the acetone. One last hint: make your own surfacing agent or "wax solution" as he calls it by dissolving a quarter-sized bit of paraffin in an ounce of stryrene. To help the dissolving, shave the wax in with a razor blade, and leave it in the sun for a while, how long depends on how strong your sunlight and ambient temperature are. Once all the wax is dissolved, use it how and where needed to make lam resin dry hard, such as hot coats, pinlines, finish/gloss coats. Being a frugal backyard glasser, I bought only lam resin, then used surfacing agent where needed for a hard surface.
Can I achieve this with sanding resin and acrylic white paint mixed as base, then colored acrylic paint mixed well to desired color then add recommended drops of hardener?
Great video, super well explained thank you! So you removed the tape without letting the resin cure for a certain time right? Just as soon as you finished applying?
Important question, what do you do if your board has been compromised and you have oils and hand prints all over it? Just wipe it acetone or alcohol or something? Thanks for the advice!
Surviving Dent School - JDub Hannah yes! Make sure your rag is clean and use some acetone. Wipe it down and make sure to get any oils off of it. Usually a good idea to blow it off aswell to make sure the acetone has all evaporated
Nice, so do you sand the pin line ones its dried? wouldn't it protrude out alittle? So is there another hotcoat to cover it and board or is it finished? ps. better to where thongs as you can absorb through your feet on that dirty floor and a mask. Regards
yes you sand because wax is used and sometimes also because the pinline is thicker on some spots then others. resins dont dry, they cure. there is no water to evaporate. yes the pinline protrudes and yes the glosscoat goes over this. this board is only hot/fillercoated and sanded once, it could still have minor burnthroughs here and there. great thinking on the thongs (slippers?), absorption through skin is real! Ive seen many of matts pics and vids and he does keep a clinically clean room though. in my room, not so much. question for matt: why use 2 differrent tapes? i know it works, i know the 233+ doesnt bend as well as the yellow one. why not just use only the yellow tape? is it really harder to get a straight line with that one? i often used the 233 and at the nose i split the tape with a razor. that way i didnt have to feather the tapelines together. i must say your feathering technique is flawless,
Dan Ballou we typically don’t suggest adding more wax. Matt has been using this resin for a long time now so he must like the difference that it makes. This would maybe make it alittle easier to sand.
@@nolenvlogs2697 Another effect of adding more "wax" is that it's cut with styrene, making the pinline resin thinner, at the risk of it being less opaque. Few things suck harder than a pinline with resin that isn't opaque! Also, heavily pigmented resin doesn't like to dry hard, or quickly, so maybe thinning it a little with surfacing agent (wax plus styrene, make your own at home) adds more wax to rise and seal the surface. Poly resin without wax will not dry with a hard surface; this is (one of the) differences between laminating and finish resins.
How would your process play out if you were to try and do pin lines using epoxy resins like resin research? I feel that using poly resins are more forgiving when it comes to doing pin lines because of the control you get when mixing your catalyst. Great video btw.
dude! doesnt the curve lines make the biggest risk of mess or bleed under?i cant imagine running a curve line off the top of a strait line. at least on a strait you can do a cut across 2 tapes ten they lay together like perfect
You would probably get an even better result with super crisp edges if you used pin striping tape as opposed to masking tape. Masking tape is for masking, not getting clean edges. You have the skill to get neat lines, but in my opinion, your choice of tapes is completely wrong. No other pro on any object uses masking tapes for pin lining.
This man is a master at his craft, and is generous with his knowledge. Even though I will never do this, it has been relaxing and informative to watch. Thank you Matt and Fiberglass Florida!
Nancy Offenhiser cheers, Matt
Man, that was Awesome! I like these glassing tutorials!
Matt is an artist man... an ARTIST
Love how this board is coming out! Matt you have a easy going way about you that makes it so enjoyable to watch you work! This board is a true masterpiece, and Im sure it will be turning many heads at the beach. Thanks for your time in producing these vids...
slim pickins he really is great at explaining each step and his process. We have one more video on the way of this board and it’s how to polish! It looks so good after it’s polished
Great video. Underemphasizes the importance of a steady, patient hand in laying a clean pinline that has appropriate curvature and consistent thickness. "Anyone" can do it, but it takes a cool head to lay down tape evenly. There are tricks to scribing a line to follow, but where there is a cloth inlay, the pinliner has already got the underlying path to follow.
I'll add a tip from a long time ago... After you tape the pinline and burnish it down with a stick or whatever, take some uncatalyzed lam resin and smear a thin coat where the pinline will be, using one finger. If there are any creases in the tape that would otherwise allow a "feather" edge of resin to seep under the tape, the quickly curing smear will seal those. I used suncure lam resin for this... Then show the board some sunshine to cure that smear coat, and brush on the pinline resin.
BUT BEFORE THAT, I don't recall Matt telling us the grit he used to sand the hotcoat... I sanded hotcoats with a soft pad and 60 grit (pretty coarse, yeah I know) but in the area of the pinline and sometimes over the entire board, I'd hand sand with 220 wet, and make sure to wash off all the slurry created. 220 gives a smooth, even satin finish that will present well to the tape.
I GOTTA SAY... Do NOT expose unprotected skin to acetone, ever. You see, acetone has the peculiar ability to take whatever is on your skin and leach it through your skin... As if acetone weren't bad enough (and it is), any crud or resin on your skin will be taken through to your bloodstream, through your circulatory system where it will muck up (technical term) your brain, liver and kidneys. One more time... DO NOT expose unprotected skin to acetone. Use snugly fitting nitrile or latex gloves, at least on the hand that will handle the acetone.
One last hint: make your own surfacing agent or "wax solution" as he calls it by dissolving a quarter-sized bit of paraffin in an ounce of stryrene. To help the dissolving, shave the wax in with a razor blade, and leave it in the sun for a while, how long depends on how strong your sunlight and ambient temperature are. Once all the wax is dissolved, use it how and where needed to make lam resin dry hard, such as hot coats, pinlines, finish/gloss coats. Being a frugal backyard glasser, I bought only lam resin, then used surfacing agent where needed for a hard surface.
Thanks very much. I will be shaping my fifth surfboard.
going to use your instruction to see if I can get a decent pinstripe!
MASTER DOING THE JOB BAREFOOT! THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ART :-)
Love your work! Always meticulous and on point my man. If you were doing a board in epoxy, would you execute the epoxy pin lines the same way?
Can I achieve this with sanding resin and acrylic white paint mixed as base, then colored acrylic paint mixed well to desired color then add recommended drops of hardener?
Is that cloth inlay directly on the foam and glassed over
What's the music on this, I was in the zone just watching, would love to use this tune while I'm in my bay.
Does Matt Glass the bottom over the Inlay Fabric?
You know you can split a roll of green tape in half down the with a razorblade? For nose curves.
What kind of foam do you use. I noticed it's not affected nither by polyester resin nor acetone. Thank you
Great video, super well explained thank you! So you removed the tape without letting the resin cure for a certain time right? Just as soon as you finished applying?
Fantastic tutorial , thank you .
thank you!
Important question, what do you do if your board has been compromised and you have oils and hand prints all over it? Just wipe it acetone or alcohol or something? Thanks for the advice!
Surviving Dent School - JDub Hannah yes! Make sure your rag is clean and use some acetone. Wipe it down and make sure to get any oils off of it. Usually a good idea to blow it off aswell to make sure the acetone has all evaporated
Fiberglass Florida thanks, your channel is so informative and helpful 🙌🏻. Thanks for the pro tips
You got it! Much more to come. Surf & Boat 💪🏽
I’d sand the contaminated area and blow off we’ll use 120-180 grit. Thanks , matt
Nice, so do you sand the pin line ones its dried? wouldn't it protrude out alittle? So is there another hotcoat to cover it and board or is it finished?
ps. better to where thongs as you can absorb through your feet on that dirty floor and a mask.
Regards
yes you sand because wax is used and sometimes also because the pinline is thicker on some spots then others. resins dont dry, they cure. there is no water to evaporate. yes the pinline protrudes and yes the glosscoat goes over this. this board is only hot/fillercoated and sanded once, it could still have minor burnthroughs here and there. great thinking on the thongs (slippers?), absorption through skin is real! Ive seen many of matts pics and vids and he does keep a clinically clean room though. in my room, not so much.
question for matt: why use 2 differrent tapes? i know it works, i know the 233+ doesnt bend as well as the yellow one. why not just use only the yellow tape? is it really harder to get a straight line with that one? i often used the 233 and at the nose i split the tape with a razor. that way i didnt have to feather the tapelines together. i must say your feathering technique is flawless,
Good eye, steady hand. :)
Nice job!!
Do you sand the pin line before the gloss coat?
Thanks
Yes
no
Why did you add wax when using glossing resin that already has wax in it?
Dan Ballou we typically don’t suggest adding more wax. Matt has been using this resin for a long time now so he must like the difference that it makes. This would maybe make it alittle easier to sand.
I like more wax. It’s not much but I think the resin lays flatter. Matt
@@nolenvlogs2697 Another effect of adding more "wax" is that it's cut with styrene, making the pinline resin thinner, at the risk of it being less opaque. Few things suck harder than a pinline with resin that isn't opaque! Also, heavily pigmented resin doesn't like to dry hard, or quickly, so maybe thinning it a little with surfacing agent (wax plus styrene, make your own at home) adds more wax to rise and seal the surface. Poly resin without wax will not dry with a hard surface; this is (one of the) differences between laminating and finish resins.
Fantastic, thanks!!!
Glad you liked it!
How would your process play out if you were to try and do pin lines using epoxy resins like resin research? I feel that using poly resins are more forgiving when it comes to doing pin lines because of the control you get when mixing your catalyst. Great video btw.
Andy I wish I could help. But I can’t give any advice one epoxy resin. Thanks tho, matt
Love!
Never knew that Adam sandler has shaping surfboards as a side hobby
Très beau !!❤️❤️❤️💪💪💪
thx
dude! doesnt the curve lines make the biggest risk of mess or bleed under?i cant imagine running a curve line off the top of a strait line. at least on a strait you can do a cut across 2 tapes ten they lay together like perfect
thx!!!
You would probably get an even better result with super crisp edges if you used pin striping tape as opposed to masking tape. Masking tape is for masking, not getting clean edges. You have the skill to get neat lines, but in my opinion, your choice of tapes is completely wrong. No other pro on any object uses masking tapes for pin lining.
Have you just simply tried spraying the pin line on and glossing over Matt?