This is a great video with lots of small and big tips. I need to do something about my trim wood fascia which is starting to rot. Contractors quoted (1) prime & paint [~ $1000] (2) Install Aluminum fascia on top [~ $650] (3) Replace wood fascia + prime + paint [~ $1400]. After watching this video, I am encouraged to do it myself. Thanks for the tips and your effort in making this video with plenty of details.
Thanks Paul. I recently dropped my shirt and tie gig for a job remodeling houses. I love it and I want to be the best at it. I love learning the nuance from skilled people. I ask for advice and don't pretend to know how to do something I don't and seek out my daily "pro tip" from the guys I work with. Thanks for your great work, great tips, and great teaching style.
I liked the video and subscribed. I'm new to a lot of trim work and need to start fascia repair at home; the organization (work flow) and stops to explain key points (nail size, bondo, etc) at the right points make this very easy to follow.
Wow!!! Excellent video! Of all the years of watching and working with our dad in carpentry, I have never seen something so awesome, and my dad is pretty awesome himself! Thanks for the video! Keep up the great work!
Paul I've been doing repairs on homes for almost 40 years and yet I still pick il some great tips from you. Way to ho brother - your vids are very helpful. Thanks!!
Yan Fu Hi Yan Fu, I am so sorry to hear of your loss! Thank you for taking the time to comment. If you ever have any questions, please let me know. Thanks! Paul
Paul, thanks for the video. I'm a "new" handyman and every day I try to learn something new.You video has some great info and you do a great job presenting it. Thanks again. Ray
I'm replacing my fascia now. I have removed all of the old "siding" and will probably start putting on new stuff tomorrow. I did learn some great tips from your video that I am going to try. Thanks.
I was looking at how to replace a facia board, but picked up a lot of good tips from you! I always clamped down aluminum rails/guides for my circular saw, when using your finger on the plate is all i needed :) Also, bondo for corners instead of caulk... nice! thanks again!
You are right about outside corners not matching all of the time. Many times they swell and open up. Bondo actually works as well as wood glue when bonding wood together. I was a trim carpenter back in the 80's. When routing wood, we would sometimes snag a splinter, or a split in the wood. We would then use bondo on the bad edge and we would route over it. The bondo was just as strong as the wood . If you keep a good paint on your repair, you will get years of perfect corners. Thanks! Paul
moises saldivar Hi Moises, Yeah my dad was always a worker. He was 79 years old in that video. He is 82 right now and I am fortunate to have both of my parents in my life. My 2 sons and I are going to visit them in a few minutes. Have a good day! Paul
You are an artist, a pleasure to watch. I'll be replacing a fascia on side of my garage. Thanks for your direction. If I could though, I'd rather have you do it! Thanks, Paul
Really clear video of how to do the repair the right way. Im to beat up to do my fascia repair myself, but will see if the repair-person does it correctly. Since the fascia is 28 feet high, will have the roofers wood repair person do the job. Thanks again for the video.
wow this is so awesome! thanks for the video and the tips, Paul! I never thought to use a wire brush to clean paint brush bristles or to use bondo and sanding to have a seamless wood finish. your tidbits of info are incredible and much appreciated!
You hate those big nails. LOL This was a great video. I actually experienced many issues that you gave tips for in this video when I replaced my house's fascia boards. I was 99% close to your recommendations with my own intuition for the repair. I wish I had seen this video prior to starting my work. Thanks for the video Paul.
Awsome video. It will be a big help to get a good finish when I do mine. I was going to use screws but after watching this and reading your comment below I'll be using the nails you recommended. Have a great day and thanks for posting.
Hey, no problem. Thanks. I tried HD, Lowes, and Amazon, but no luck. I may have to cut my own. Should be fun, though... especially with my new Tracer XL! I ordered it yesterday. I'm doing a few arched doorways and a couple alcoves later this week and I'm sure it will make those semis a breeze. You've created what looks to be a terrific, must-have tool. It's certainly a steal of a deal at the price. Bravo! And thanks again, for everything.
Nice video, Paul. I like your comment on bondo. Just confirms what I did to my weather-exposed fascia outside corners about 12 years ago. Bondo doesn't shrink, is sandable, paintable, water-proof and termite-proof. I just did the same thing today (5/8/14) on my neighbor's outside corner that was 1/4 eaten away by a couple of active termites. Cleaned it out, drill/spayed for termites, used bondo, which closed up the corner, and is now water tight and termite proof. The look on my 92-year-old neighbor's face was worth it.
Hi Robert Hocker, I personally would not recommend screws on fascia board, The heads are very obvious and will take away from the clean look.You cant hide them, for if you cover them up, you will play hell trying to get them out. If you get paint in the heads, you will also have trouble unscrewing them. I have invented new curse words on a few jobs where someone used screws on fascia and I had to replace rotten boards.They had multiple coats of paint on them. It made the job much worse than it would have been if nails were used. Although I appreciate your input, I have to disagree.
Well this really helped me understand how to replace the facia board. THANKS!! With no man around the house I have to do things myself and this video really helped. Too bad you didn't live near me and I could hire you to fix my facia and soffit.
You can purchase a small roll of flashing(sheet metal in a roll, usually 4 to 6 inches in width). You can slide it under the drip edge and over the rear lip of your gutter. If your gutter is attached by gutter spikes you will have to notch around them. Make sure you use aluminum flashing for aluminum gutters and like materials for galvanized and copper gutters. Mixing them will cause Electrolysis(Corrosion due to chemical reaction). Thanks!
@paulstoolbox Paul, You did a great job on this video giving all us DIYers some good advice and some great tips on how to install fascia board and how to do patch repairs using bondo which is the first video I have ever saw showing to use it. The best thing about using the bondo is that there is very little wait time. So it makes is quick strong and easy. Great Job I will be doing it your way for now on. Thanks Phil
I just want to thank you. You are terrific. I am tearing a 3k sq ft house apart & putting it back together. I have watched a lot of TH-cam help videos but yours is by far the best for my needs. Discovering today I need to replace the facia boards, install gutter guards, & gutters. Watching your facia board video I see how you fix things. I have fixed things the same way not knowing what in the he'll I'm doing in many cases. I just go by logic, what makes sense to me for durability & cost effectiveness. I'm a 100# (or lighter) weakling, F, old enough for you to be my 10th child or awfully young to be my grandchild, all totally by myself (no helpers). You have given me the security that I have done things right the first time!!! I just wish I had the tools you have. It would make things easier, by far. I just have one question. Due to an extremely limited budget, how can I cut a 20" piece out of the facia board without removing the board &/or the gutter entirely? I am not even sure I can remove either by myself having 33 continuous feet with 2 right angles to deal with. I want to replace around 20-24" each on 2 sides of the continuous lengths. Should I just tear down gutters & facia boards & completely replace them? Can I save the good materials? Also want to mention... you are the ONLY person I have ever subscribed to on TH-cam & I watch a lot of how to videos! Thanks for piece of mind. I am a mild perfectionist... so that says a lot. Thanks so very much!!!
Tarby Bee Good morning Tarby, 1st I want to thank you for subscribing, it means a lot to me! I have a couple of questions. Do your gutters wrap around your house,or are they a straight run? Are the rotten sections low on your fascia or high, behind the gutters? The best way to repair your fascia would be to remove your gutters 1st. Unfortunately, it would require 2 people. If your rot is on the lower parts of your fascia, you may be able to patch it with Bondo glass or even straight Bondo. (Auto body filler) Together, we will figure out what the best option is. I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks! Paul
Fascia boards wrap around in parts of the house (have several peaks with no gutters). I have 3 inner corners. Rot is high up but rotten all the way vertically (2x6) & about 18" horizontally. It is bad. Way too much rot to use bondo. Didn't even show up but just noticed some growth on the bottom of the board & started digging. Yikes, it completely rotted out. Then found out about & noticed no gutter guards so all must come down to repair/replacement. I think replacement is necessary but I need to do this by myself. Can I use ropes to hold ends in place (at corner posts - ~8" lower than gutters of course)? I would like to reuse gutter material if I find them in good shape but with having right angles I'm not sure what to do. Thanks so very much!!! I'm like you, repair if possible in excellent/lasting condition; replace if necessary.
Hi Tarby, I have run into similar situations myself. You can take 2 or 3 1x4 's and cut them into sections a few inches longer than the width of your soffit. Screw them to the underside of your soffit, so they will stick out perpendicular to your wall and fascia. Make sure to tack a small block on the end of your 1x4. This will keep your replacement fascia from sliding off when you set it on the 1x4's. This way, you will be able to set one end on the braces and you will also be able to slide it back and forth while lining it up. Once you are done, you can remove the braces and fill the holes. It will not be the easiest way to do it,but it works when you are alone. I am not one to ask for help, my family and friends are always willing to help me but I usually do it alone. I hate to see you do this alone. Is anyone available that you know? Working off of a ladder by yourself can be a daunting task. I am also a Fireman,and I see many situations where people get seriously hurt while attempting difficult and potentially dangerous tasks by themselves. I am not saying that you are not fully capable, I just feel that this is a 2 man job for anyone. Please let me know if you have any more questions or if my explanation is not detailed enough. I will be more than happy to help. Thanks! Paul
Hi oliver915, !st I want to thank you for your comments. When it comes to fascia, it is common practice to 45 your corners. As for your seems, it is good practice to cut some kind of miter for your lap joints. You can cut it at a 45 or even a 15 degree if you like. The angle allows for a nice looking,strong joint. Don't forget to glue all of your seems with a good waterproof wood glue. Good Luck! Paul
Gf's bathroom has had a huge leak from ceiling right at the corner of the outside of the house. Has a slate roof with two peaks forming a flat roof right on top of the bathroom and was thinking it was the roof that was leaking. Well, I was out cleaning gutters and found the fascia board for the gutter for the flat roof was half way missing due to rot, and the spot where the fascia was missing was right at the downspot, and the leak in the bathroom was in direct line with that area. Checked roof, roof is good. Was the fascia board the whole time lol. Thankfully that piece is only about 4 ft long, but your video will be coming in handy in a few weeks. Thanks man!!!
Paul Ricalde Ya really. Although the giant maple dumping leaves into that tiny gutter isn't helping either, gonna have all of the downspouts snaked out as well to make sure theres no cloggage then we should be good :) (famous last words lol)
Hi fkhodada, First I want to thank you for the comment! To answer your question,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You are right about the drip edge. My parents are retired and they purchased this home knowing that it was in need of some repairs. I am constantly finding jack leg workmanship in this home, but overall it is a nice home. I added drip edge since the video but was not concerned about the gutters, since the ground at their home is very hard and does not erode.
wow! this was great....sure wished I would have seen it before I caulked my split corners...I did my best to make sure and mold them, but I think the bondo could have been a better choice. Also thank you for the 45deg angle cut and how to use the square.
I wish I could help you with bidding but I have been out of the contracting business for a number of years. I make these videos when I do work for friends and family, so I basically do them for free and for the videos! Latex paint is my chose for paint. Latex paint has vastly improved over the past 20 years! It doesn't yellow,goes on smooth, easily cleaned,environmentally safe,and has no fumes.Besides,after meeting throat cancer, I am very conscious when it comes to harmful dust or fumes!
It's funny! I just happened to go to the Journey concert with my wife. Had a great time, a few beers and a shirt. Looks funny seeing an old guy with a concert t shirt, but it makes a good work shirt! Thanks!
Well Piddler51, that is a good question! Wood will always expand and contract to some degree,especially when subjected to extreme outdoor conditions. That is why I always glue my lap joints. As far as corners go, you will keep it to a minimum using bondo. You may see a hairline crack during expansion due to heat, but it will still maintain its integrity for years. If you maintain your paint,you should get great results. Thanks!
Hey riceski, I am not sure about your region but here in the New Orleans area, fascia usually comes in 1"x8 "or 1"x6" and the length can be up to 16'. I have had to rip the fascia in some cases in order to match an existing fascia. You can use a table saw or you can do it the fast way with a circular saw. Make sure you pay attention and rip the top and not the bottom where the dado cut is. (groove that accepts the soffit board) Thanks! Paul
Hi learningasigo, I glue and nail my seams and joints. I usually use an 18 gauge brad nail gun for this, but a 6 penny trim nail will also work. If you are using a hand nail. You can set the head against a hard surface such as concrete and tap the point with your hammer, this will blunt the nail and make it less likely to split the wood. Thanks! Paul
Hey ICAWN, Unfortunately you will have to remove the gutters. After that you can lift the roofing shingles if they are seal tabs. If you lift them up a little bit, you can then see the nails that hold the drip edge in place. Using a flat bar( nail puller) you can pull the nails up on a section. They usually come in 10' lengths. Then you can remove the drip edge and pull the fascia away from the roof line .
Personally,I do not like to use screws on fascia board. It doesn't leave a clean finish and it can cause a real problem to the person who may have to remove it in the future. After several years of weather and a few coats of paint the screws will be hard to remove. If you have bad rafter tails,you can always scab a block of wood to the side of the rafter. This will give you something to nail your fascia to. It is easy to inspect the rafters once the fascia is removed.
Hi Gary Rice, I think I understand your question. You will need to mark a 22.5 degree line on the bottom of the fascia from the slope side. You will set your blade on a 45 degree angle. This will give you 2 angles on your cut (Compound angle). You will then mark a 90 degree line on the horizontal piece. You can cut this with your blade set on a 45 degree angle (compound angle). If you look at my video, I only needed to cut the horizontal fascia and I set my blade at 45 degrees. Hope this helps!
Home Depot and Lowes should carry fascia board but if they do not have it in your area, I would suggest looking for a lumber yard. If you have to make it yourself, you will need to make a groove in the back of your board that will accept your soffit. (Usually 3/8of an inch thick plywood. If you have any questions, please let me know! Thanks Dan!
Hi progerian, Any of the following would work just fine as long as you take care of the termite problem 1st., if you are only changing a section and not the whole house, I would recommend replacing it with the closest match. I will say that vinyl fascia is definitely better in Louisiana climate due to the moist weather, but I am not sure how well it holds up in California's climate. Hope this helps!
Hi Daniel Spencer, Good point! I will try to add a caption warning others to watch their fingers when cutting like this. I new several old carpenters over the years that have missing digits. Thanks! Paul
I like to use ladder jacks and a walk board when working on upper levels. If you do not need them often,you may want to consider renting them. If you purchase them, you may need 2 extension ladders 2 ladder jacks and preferably an aluminum walk board.
Yes, unfortunately wood fillers are only a temporary fix. It is not nearly as water resistant as body fillers. However,y you can make it last longer by making sure that it is sealed with a quality exterior paint and caulk.
This was my fault for not explaining how I kept the fascia away from the drip edge before I cut it. If you look close,you will see a piece of wood between the fascia and drip edge. I pull the fascia outward and I usually place a piece of 2x4 behind the fascia, when I let the fascia go. The 2x4 will act like a wedge and it will give me clearance for the saw blade. I had limited time when I shot this video. Hope this helps!
Hi MrDanAustin, Sorry for getting back to you so late, I did not realize that you added a question to your comment, I am very sorry for getting back to you so late. Fascia board can be purchased at any Major Home Improvement store and it already has a groove in it for accepting the soffit board.
Great job with the vid! Gonna tackle a rotten place I have on my house today. My main problem is staying away from the paper wasps! I'll have wasp spray on hand and an escape route!
Hi Infernium 2068, It sounds like you are talking about T111 siding (pronounced T one eleven). They have different materials and styles that this is made from. Plywood,Mason board and OSB board. They usually come in 3" and 8" spread between the pattern. If you measure the part in between the grooves you will see which one it is. If you are replacing it, I suggest OSB. If you are repairing, you will want to match it. Big box stores may not have it but lumber yards probably will. ( continue)----
beautiful Paul thanks mine are a mess with nail holes from gutters PLUS they uses blocks because the angle of the fascia to straighten it. I still think I'll pay someone. Good video
Hello Paul, Great video and good instruction. I have learned alot from your video. I have fascia on my house that is all rotted out, because there was not ice gaurd installed and there was improper installation of flashing. The original installation actually left a half inch of wood exposed behind the gutters. On a different note, I am very safety oriented and I saw some issues. I am only concerned for you and your co-worker's safety and your familie's welfare. Aluminum ladders are unsafe, they conduct electricity, OUCH. Also, I saw, in one shot, that your ladder was not level, dangerous. Most ladder deaths occur from a 6 foot fall. Also, I noticed that your repsirator only had one band attached. That is not good for your lungs, nor for us viewers, we look up to professional's like yourself and follow you guys. Also, can you suggest that a person use a C-clamp, instead of their finger, to guide the saw. Also, you had no hearing protection. I am not trying to come off as a know it all. I am employed by a large construction company which teaches us safety. So I am only sharing what I am taught and I do hope that you find no offense to my suggestions. I am only a fellow tradesmen, wanting to ensure that other tradesmen, such as you Paul, can benefit from safety.
No it is not very costly if you do it yourself,the rafter tails usually rot within the last few inches where it is nailed to the fascia board. If this is the case, you can scab a 2x to the side of the bad rafter, making sure that you use a long enough piece to allow you to nail your patch to solid wood,( between 12 and 24 inches). If your rafter is rotted further up the board, you may have to change the rafter and it will cost a bit more. You must fix the problem that caused the rot 1st! Thanks!
I spray the corners of the fascia with "Flex Seal' rubber coating/sealer and then prime and paint. I don't know how long it will last, but so far working fine.
If only you were nearby and were willing to do the work. With one exception- work done by a fellow who considers himself more a handyman than "carpenter," every bit of work done on our house has been a disaster. Windows installed out of alignment; improper flashing; storm doors installed improperly so that having new doors made no difference or made things worse - all highly recommended contractors. Never once suggested anyone cut corners. Unfortunately, the excellent handyman/carpenter has moved away - probably couldn't stand seeing all the bad work. Thank you for the video.
Jakeornot I am sorry to hear about your bad handyman, but it is a good thing he's gone! You will probably be better off doing the repairs yourself. If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them. Thanks! Paul
AddingLightProject No, it is a polyester resin filler, made by 3m. You can contact 3m and ask them to provide you with a MSDS if you like. Material Safety Data Sheet.
Infernium 2068(part 2) Lumber yards may also be able to special order it. If you replace it with mason board, you will want to prime both sides because it was found to hold up poorly under outdoor conditions unless it is sealed properly. If you can send me some photo's, I would be happy to view them and give you better information. Good Luck! Paul
Hi rayrayenter, If your roof sheathing is still good, you may be able to cut 2' sections of wood and scab it to the sides of each rafter tail. That is the least expensive way. It sounds like you have a roof problem that will need to be fixed. If your sheathing needs to be replaced and the roof also, I would suggest replacing the rafters at that point because replacing them is much easier when the roof is off. It is hard to tell without seeing the damage.(continue)----
Love watching your video. I'm having a room addition built and we're at the phase of putting a roof on. But we noticed the fascia board has separated at the seams. And the contractor was telling his workers to fill it. I see a problem with water damage if not done properly. And I'm afraid I don't know enough to make sure it's done properly and the contractor wanting to cut corners. I'd love your opinion. thanks.
Hi Robert, I will be happy to give you my opinion, but it is hard without seeing the work. If you take a couple of close up photos and send them to my email. I will let you know what I think. I work with a lot of different contractors and I can honestly say that we sometimes do things differently than each other. It doesn't mean that one way or the other is wrong. If I see a problem, I will share it with you. you can send me your photos via email at www.paulstoolbox.com Thanks! Paul
I try my best to explain everything, but sometimes I assume a little too much! I should have said that it becomes very water resistant after you apply primer and paint. I am also familiar with Evercoat Gold Rage,and not only agree that it is not waterproof unless sealed, but I would not suggest using premium body fillers in place of wood fillers since they can cost $50.00 or more for a gallon. Thanks for the tip , I will try not to make assumptions in future videos. Paul
If you can't nail the fascia joints on a rafter, nail timber blocking in between the rafters then nail the fascia to the blocking. I also find that spreading Bondo on the joins instead of glue then nailing it all together with back blocking I get a near invisible joints after it's sanded and painted.
Very useful video Paul. I'm gonna work on my home when the weather here in Phoenix is a bit cooler. Right now, it's 115 degree with humidity!! Hahahaha
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This is a great video with lots of small and big tips. I need to do something about my trim wood fascia which is starting to rot. Contractors quoted (1) prime & paint [~ $1000] (2) Install Aluminum fascia on top [~ $650] (3) Replace wood fascia + prime + paint [~ $1400]. After watching this video, I am encouraged to do it myself. Thanks for the tips and your effort in making this video with plenty of details.
Thanks Paul. I recently dropped my shirt and tie gig for a job remodeling houses. I love it and I want to be the best at it. I love learning the nuance from skilled people. I ask for advice and don't pretend to know how to do something I don't and seek out my daily "pro tip" from the guys I work with. Thanks for your great work, great tips, and great teaching style.
I liked the video and subscribed. I'm new to a lot of trim work and need to start fascia repair at home; the organization (work flow) and stops to explain key points (nail size, bondo, etc) at the right points make this very easy to follow.
Thank you Robert Clardy!
Paul
Wow!!! Excellent video! Of all the years of watching and working with our dad in carpentry, I have never seen something so awesome, and my dad is pretty awesome himself! Thanks for the video! Keep up the great work!
Paul I've been doing repairs on homes for almost 40 years and yet I still pick il some great tips from you. Way to ho brother - your vids are very helpful. Thanks!!
You're showing off the right way to do exterior repair. Too many craftsmen and I use that term loosely do not take time to do things right. Thank you!
+sethmeistergee
Thanks, I really appreciate your input! Have a good day!
Paul
Absolutely terrific! Detailed, clear, with perfect visuals. I wish the guy worked in my area.
Paul - you rock! Great video - very helpful and good to see a real professional in action.
I love your videos. You are the most helpful person that helping me with my old house repair after my dearest husband passed away. Thanks very much.
Yan Fu
Hi Yan Fu,
I am so sorry to hear of your loss! Thank you for taking the time to comment. If you ever have any questions, please let me know.
Thanks!
Paul
Paul, thanks for the video. I'm a "new" handyman and every day I try to learn something new.You video has some great info and you do a great job presenting it. Thanks again.
Ray
I'm replacing my fascia now. I have removed all of the old "siding" and will probably start putting on new stuff tomorrow. I did learn some great tips from your video that I am going to try. Thanks.
I was looking at how to replace a facia board, but picked up a lot of good tips from you! I always clamped down aluminum rails/guides for my circular saw, when using your finger on the plate is all i needed :) Also, bondo for corners instead of caulk... nice! thanks again!
You are right about outside corners not matching all of the time. Many times they swell and open up. Bondo actually works as well as wood glue when bonding wood together. I was a trim carpenter back in the 80's. When routing wood, we would sometimes snag a splinter, or a split in the wood. We would then use bondo on the bad edge and we would route over it. The bondo was just as strong as the wood . If you keep a good paint on your repair, you will get years of perfect corners.
Thanks!
Paul
Great work as always. Your Dad looked great helping out. God Bless him.
moises saldivar
Hi Moises,
Yeah my dad was always a worker. He was 79 years old in that video. He is 82 right now and I am fortunate to have both of my parents in my life. My 2 sons and I are going to visit them in a few minutes.
Have a good day!
Paul
You are an artist, a pleasure to watch. I'll be replacing a fascia on side of my garage. Thanks for your direction. If I could though, I'd rather have you do it!
Thanks, Paul
Really clear video of how to do the repair the right way. Im to beat up to do my fascia repair myself, but will see if the repair-person does it correctly. Since the fascia is 28 feet high, will have the roofers wood repair person do the job. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks Paul, was pretty much what I was thinking but its always useful to see someone else go threw it before you go all in.
Hi David,
I am sorry, but I just got your message. TH-cam doesn't always notify me. How did it go?
Thanks!
Paul
wow this is so awesome! thanks for the video and the tips, Paul! I never thought to use a wire brush to clean paint brush bristles or to use bondo and sanding to have a seamless wood finish. your tidbits of info are incredible and much appreciated!
Shawn Wilkerson
Hi Shawn,
I am so glad I could help, thank you for the comment!
Paul
You hate those big nails. LOL This was a great video. I actually experienced many issues that you gave tips for in this video when I replaced my house's fascia boards. I was 99% close to your recommendations with my own intuition for the repair. I wish I had seen this video prior to starting my work. Thanks for the video Paul.
Awsome video. It will be a big help to get a good finish when I do mine. I was going to use screws but after watching this and reading your comment below I'll be using the nails you recommended. Have a great day and thanks for posting.
Hey, no problem. Thanks. I tried HD, Lowes, and Amazon, but no luck. I may have to cut my own. Should be fun, though... especially with my new Tracer XL! I ordered it yesterday. I'm doing a few arched doorways and a couple alcoves later this week and I'm sure it will make those semis a breeze. You've created what looks to be a terrific, must-have tool. It's certainly a steal of a deal at the price. Bravo! And thanks again, for everything.
Nice video, Paul. I like your comment on bondo. Just confirms what I did to my weather-exposed fascia outside corners about 12 years ago. Bondo doesn't shrink, is sandable, paintable, water-proof and termite-proof. I just did the same thing today (5/8/14) on my neighbor's outside corner that was 1/4 eaten away by a couple of active termites. Cleaned it out, drill/spayed for termites, used bondo, which closed up the corner, and is now water tight and termite proof. The look on my 92-year-old neighbor's face was worth it.
That's cool GSMSfromFV!
Thanks!
Hi Robert Hocker,
I personally would not recommend screws on fascia board, The heads are very obvious and will take away from the clean look.You cant hide them, for if you cover them up, you will play hell trying to get them out. If you get paint in the heads, you will also have trouble unscrewing them. I have invented new curse words on a few jobs where someone used screws on fascia and I had to replace rotten boards.They had multiple coats of paint on them. It made the job much worse than it would have been if nails were used. Although I appreciate your input, I have to disagree.
Very good video, I'm a newbie at anything to do with wood constructing. You make it very easy to understand. Thanks!
Well this really helped me understand how to replace the facia board. THANKS!! With no man around the house I have to do things myself and this video really helped. Too bad you didn't live near me and I could hire you to fix my facia and soffit.
Hey, thanks for the video. Just got back possession of a house that I'll need to do some fascia work on, these tips are a great help!
Thomas Busch
Thank you Thomas, I'm glad i could help!
Paul
You can purchase a small roll of flashing(sheet metal in a roll, usually 4 to 6 inches in width). You can slide it under the drip edge and over the rear lip of your gutter. If your gutter is attached by gutter spikes you will have to notch around them. Make sure you use aluminum flashing for aluminum gutters and like materials for galvanized and copper gutters. Mixing them will cause Electrolysis(Corrosion due to chemical reaction).
Thanks!
@paulstoolbox
Paul,
You did a great job on this video giving all us DIYers some good advice and some great tips on how to install fascia board and how to do patch repairs using bondo which is the first video I have ever saw showing to use it. The best thing about using the bondo is that there is very little wait time. So it makes is quick strong and easy.
Great Job I will be doing it your way for now on.
Thanks
Phil
Paul your videos are very helpful, I am glad I found you channel. thanks Ken
I just want to thank you. You are terrific. I am tearing a 3k sq ft house apart & putting it back together. I have watched a lot of TH-cam help videos but yours is by far the best for my needs. Discovering today I need to replace the facia boards, install gutter guards, & gutters. Watching your facia board video I see how you fix things. I have fixed things the same way not knowing what in the he'll I'm doing in many cases. I just go by logic, what makes sense to me for durability & cost effectiveness. I'm a 100# (or lighter) weakling, F, old enough for you to be my 10th child or awfully young to be my grandchild, all totally by myself (no helpers). You have given me the security that I have done things right the first time!!! I just wish I had the tools you have. It would make things easier, by far.
I just have one question. Due to an extremely limited budget, how can I cut a 20" piece out of the facia board without removing the board &/or the gutter entirely? I am not even sure I can remove either by myself having 33 continuous feet with 2 right angles to deal with. I want to replace around 20-24" each on 2 sides of the continuous lengths. Should I just tear down gutters & facia boards & completely replace them? Can I save the good materials?
Also want to mention... you are the ONLY person I have ever subscribed to on TH-cam & I watch a lot of how to videos! Thanks for piece of mind. I am a mild perfectionist... so that says a lot. Thanks so very much!!!
Tarby Bee
Good morning Tarby,
1st I want to thank you for subscribing, it means a lot to me! I have a couple of questions. Do your gutters wrap around your house,or are they a straight run? Are the rotten sections low on your fascia or high, behind the gutters? The best way to repair your fascia would be to remove your gutters 1st. Unfortunately, it would require 2 people. If your rot is on the lower parts of your fascia, you may be able to patch it with Bondo glass or even straight Bondo. (Auto body filler) Together, we will figure out what the best option is. I look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks!
Paul
Fascia boards wrap around in parts of the house (have several peaks with no gutters). I have 3 inner corners. Rot is high up but rotten all the way vertically (2x6) & about 18" horizontally. It is bad. Way too much rot to use bondo. Didn't even show up but just noticed some growth on the bottom of the board & started digging. Yikes, it completely rotted out. Then found out about & noticed no gutter guards so all must come down to repair/replacement. I think replacement is necessary but I need to do this by myself. Can I use ropes to hold ends in place (at corner posts - ~8" lower than gutters of course)? I would like to reuse gutter material if I find them in good shape but with having right angles I'm not sure what to do. Thanks so very much!!! I'm like you, repair if possible in excellent/lasting condition; replace if necessary.
Hi Tarby,
I have run into similar situations myself. You can take 2 or 3 1x4 's and cut them into sections a few inches longer than the width of your soffit. Screw them to the underside of your soffit, so they will stick out perpendicular to your wall and fascia. Make sure to tack a small block on the end of your 1x4. This will keep your replacement fascia from sliding off when you set it on the 1x4's. This way, you will be able to set one end on the braces and you will also be able to slide it back and forth while lining it up. Once you are done, you can remove the braces and fill the holes. It will not be the easiest way to do it,but it works when you are alone. I am not one to ask for help, my family and friends are always willing to help me but I usually do it alone. I hate to see you do this alone. Is anyone available that you know? Working off of a ladder by yourself can be a daunting task. I am also a Fireman,and I see many situations where people get seriously hurt while attempting difficult and potentially dangerous tasks by themselves. I am not saying that you are not fully capable, I just feel that this is a 2 man job for anyone. Please let me know if you have any more questions or if my explanation is not detailed enough. I will be more than happy to help.
Thanks!
Paul
Hi oliver915,
!st I want to thank you for your comments. When it comes to fascia, it is common practice to 45 your corners. As for your seems, it is good practice to cut some kind of miter for your lap joints. You can cut it at a 45 or even a 15 degree if you like. The angle allows for a nice looking,strong joint. Don't forget to glue all of your seems with a good waterproof wood glue.
Good Luck!
Paul
Nice to see someone who knows what they're doing. What Id really like to see is the replacement of a Frieze Board.
Gf's bathroom has had a huge leak from ceiling right at the corner of the outside of the house. Has a slate roof with two peaks forming a flat roof right on top of the bathroom and was thinking it was the roof that was leaking. Well, I was out cleaning gutters and found the fascia board for the gutter for the flat roof was half way missing due to rot, and the spot where the fascia was missing was right at the downspot, and the leak in the bathroom was in direct line with that area. Checked roof, roof is good. Was the fascia board the whole time lol. Thankfully that piece is only about 4 ft long, but your video will be coming in handy in a few weeks. Thanks man!!!
Thank you gadapollo! Im glad it was only the fascia, It is usually caused by flat roofs, they can be a pain!
Paul Ricalde Ya really. Although the giant maple dumping leaves into that tiny gutter isn't helping either, gonna have all of the downspouts snaked out as well to make sure theres no cloggage then we should be good :) (famous last words lol)
Hi fkhodada,
First I want to thank you for the comment! To answer your question,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You are right about the drip edge. My parents are retired and they purchased this home knowing that it was in need of some repairs. I am constantly finding jack leg workmanship in this home, but overall it is a nice home. I added drip edge since the video but was not concerned about the gutters, since the ground at their home is very hard and does not erode.
wow! this was great....sure wished I would have seen it before I caulked my split corners...I did my best to make sure and mold them, but I think the bondo could have been a better choice. Also thank you for the 45deg angle cut and how to use the square.
I wish I could help you with bidding but I have been out of the contracting business for a number of years. I make these videos when I do work for friends and family, so I basically do them for free and for the videos! Latex paint is my chose for paint. Latex paint has vastly improved over the past 20 years! It doesn't yellow,goes on smooth, easily cleaned,environmentally safe,and has no fumes.Besides,after meeting throat cancer, I am very conscious when it comes to harmful dust or fumes!
Your video is very well done, thanks for the tips - you make the job look so easy :)
really great video Paul. simple and to the point from a voice of experience! appreciate the share bless you
just wanted to say your very thorough . And your work looks great
It's funny! I just happened to go to the Journey concert with my wife. Had a great time, a few beers and a shirt. Looks funny seeing an old guy with a concert t shirt, but it makes a good work shirt!
Thanks!
What a great video! Surprisingly good.. now I think I will fix the rotting wood myself after seeing this.
Awesome Tom, let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks!
Paul
Well Piddler51, that is a good question! Wood will always expand and contract to some degree,especially when subjected to extreme outdoor conditions. That is why I always glue my lap joints. As far as corners go, you will keep it to a minimum using bondo. You may see a hairline crack during expansion due to heat, but it will still maintain its integrity for years. If you maintain your paint,you should get great results.
Thanks!
Great pointers! I like that you show how to do it solo too (for the most part).
Hey riceski,
I am not sure about your region but here in the New Orleans area, fascia usually comes in 1"x8 "or 1"x6" and the length can be up to 16'. I have had to rip the fascia in some cases in order to match an existing fascia. You can use a table saw or you can do it the fast way with a circular saw. Make sure you pay attention and rip the top and not the bottom where the dado cut is. (groove that accepts the soffit board) Thanks!
Paul
Hi learningasigo,
I glue and nail my seams and joints. I usually use an 18 gauge brad nail gun for this, but a 6 penny trim nail will also work. If you are using a hand nail. You can set the head against a hard surface such as concrete and tap the point with your hammer, this will blunt the nail and make it less likely to split the wood.
Thanks!
Paul
I'm extremely excited to put these tips to practice! Excellent video!
Hey ICAWN,
Unfortunately you will have to remove the gutters. After that you can lift the roofing shingles if they are seal tabs. If you lift them up a little bit, you can then see the nails that hold the drip edge in place. Using a flat bar( nail puller) you can pull the nails up on a section. They usually come in 10' lengths. Then you can remove the drip edge and pull the fascia away from the roof line .
Personally,I do not like to use screws on fascia board. It doesn't leave a clean finish and it can cause a real problem to the person who may have to remove it in the future. After several years of weather and a few coats of paint the screws will be hard to remove. If you have bad rafter tails,you can always scab a block of wood to the side of the rafter. This will give you something to nail your fascia to. It is easy to inspect the rafters once the fascia is removed.
Hi Gary Rice,
I think I understand your question. You will need to mark a 22.5 degree line on the bottom of the fascia from the slope side. You will set your blade on a 45 degree angle. This will give you 2 angles on your cut (Compound angle). You will then mark a 90 degree line on the horizontal piece. You can cut this with your blade set on a 45 degree angle (compound angle). If you look at my video, I only needed to cut the horizontal fascia and I set my blade at 45 degrees. Hope this helps!
Great video. Make sure you keep your fingers away from the blade when ripping the facia. (There are some people that need this warning LOL.
Home Depot and Lowes should carry fascia board but if they do not have it in your area, I would suggest looking for a lumber yard. If you have to make it yourself, you will need to make a groove in the back of your board that will accept your soffit. (Usually 3/8of an inch thick plywood. If you have any questions, please let me know! Thanks Dan!
I am a DIY'er and I liked your video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Hi progerian,
Any of the following would work just fine as long as you take care of the termite problem 1st., if you are only changing a section and not the whole house, I would recommend replacing it with the closest match. I will say that vinyl fascia is definitely better in Louisiana climate due to the moist weather, but I am not sure how well it holds up in California's climate. Hope this helps!
Hi Daniel Spencer,
Good point! I will try to add a caption warning others to watch their fingers when cutting like this. I new several old carpenters over the years that have missing digits.
Thanks!
Paul
Clear and to the point. Loved the tip abiut using grip on the saw plate to cive proper clearance. Also about using bondo (spelling ?) instead of caulk
I like to use ladder jacks and a walk board when working on upper levels. If you do not need them often,you may want to consider renting them. If you purchase them, you may need 2 extension ladders 2 ladder jacks and preferably an aluminum walk board.
Good video. Thanks for posting. I have some rotting fascia and this video will come in handy when I repair it.
Thanks Michael Mendoza!
Yes, unfortunately wood fillers are only a temporary fix. It is not nearly as water resistant as body fillers. However,y you can make it last longer by making sure that it is sealed with a quality exterior paint and caulk.
This was my fault for not explaining how I kept the fascia away from the drip edge before I cut it. If you look close,you will see a piece of wood between the fascia and drip edge. I pull the fascia outward and I usually place a piece of 2x4 behind the fascia, when I let the fascia go. The 2x4 will act like a wedge and it will give me clearance for the saw blade. I had limited time when I shot this video. Hope this helps!
really nice video!! quick and efficient with lots of cool tips. Bondo trick makes total sense. I wish I would have thought of it. thanks for the help.
+Jason Morris
Hi Jason,
You are welcome, I'm glad i could help. Thank you for your comment and have a good day.
Paul
Hi MrDanAustin,
Sorry for getting back to you so late, I did not realize that you added a question to your comment, I am very sorry for getting back to you so late. Fascia board can be purchased at any Major Home Improvement store and it already has a groove in it for accepting the soffit board.
Great job with the vid! Gonna tackle a rotten place I have on my house today. My main problem is staying away from the paper wasps! I'll have wasp spray on hand and an escape route!
Great video, tackling my facia boards and eaves tomorrow, this helped a lot.
Hey thevibrationbaby, I hope it goes well for you, thanks for the comment!
Paul
The best how to video I've seen. Thanks a ton!
Juan,
I really appreciate your positive comment!
Thanks !!!
Thanks!
I hope this video helps. I will be adding more videos with other tips on exterior repairs.
Paul
very helpful.like your little tips. going to start wire brushing my paint brushes now.
Hi, I really appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Thank you!
Paul
Thank you for your video. It really is helpful! It is a blessing to others.
Steven Haff
Thank you Steven, I really appreciate your comment!
Paul
Great video. Thorough and concise!
Hi Infernium 2068,
It sounds like you are talking about T111 siding (pronounced T one eleven). They have different materials and styles that this is made from. Plywood,Mason board and OSB board. They usually come in 3" and 8" spread between the pattern. If you measure the part in between the grooves you will see which one it is. If you are replacing it, I suggest OSB. If you are repairing, you will want to match it. Big box stores may not have it but lumber yards probably will. ( continue)----
Thanks for the tutorial Paul... This is very good knowledge.
I'll be doing this soon.
Hey Paul Lee,
Thanks for the comment! I hope the video helped.
Paul
beautiful Paul thanks mine are a mess with nail holes from gutters PLUS they uses blocks because the angle of the fascia to straighten it. I still think I'll pay someone. Good video
Hello Paul,
Great video and good instruction. I have learned alot from your video. I have fascia on my house that is all rotted out, because there was not ice gaurd installed and there was improper installation of flashing. The original installation actually left a half inch of wood exposed behind the gutters.
On a different note, I am very safety oriented and I saw some issues. I am only concerned for you and your co-worker's safety and your familie's welfare. Aluminum ladders are unsafe, they conduct electricity, OUCH. Also, I saw, in one shot, that your ladder was not level, dangerous. Most ladder deaths occur from a 6 foot fall. Also, I noticed that your repsirator only had one band attached. That is not good for your lungs, nor for us viewers, we look up to professional's like yourself and follow you guys. Also, can you suggest that a person use a C-clamp, instead of their finger, to guide the saw. Also, you had no hearing protection. I am not trying to come off as a know it all. I am employed by a large construction company which teaches us safety. So I am only sharing what I am taught and I do hope that you find no offense to my suggestions. I am only a fellow tradesmen, wanting to ensure that other tradesmen, such as you Paul, can benefit from safety.
No it is not very costly if you do it yourself,the rafter tails usually rot within the last few inches where it is nailed to the fascia board. If this is the case, you can scab a 2x to the side of the bad rafter, making sure that you use a long enough piece to allow you to nail your patch to solid wood,( between 12 and 24 inches). If your rafter is rotted further up the board, you may have to change the rafter and it will cost a bit more. You must fix the problem that caused the rot 1st! Thanks!
I spray the corners of the fascia with "Flex Seal' rubber coating/sealer and then prime and paint. I don't know how long it will last, but so far working fine.
If only you were nearby and were willing to do the work. With one exception- work done by a fellow who considers himself more a handyman than "carpenter," every bit of work done on our house has been a disaster. Windows installed out of alignment; improper flashing; storm doors installed improperly so that having new doors made no difference or made things worse - all highly recommended contractors. Never once suggested anyone cut corners. Unfortunately, the excellent handyman/carpenter has moved away - probably couldn't stand seeing all the bad work. Thank you for the video.
Jakeornot
I am sorry to hear about your bad handyman, but it is a good thing he's gone! You will probably be better off doing the repairs yourself. If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them.
Thanks!
Paul
Hey Paul, Thank you for the great tips. It help me a lot. Keep up the good work!!!
that is a great idea with bondo i have used ut for years on cars and never would have though of that thanks.
Thank you for the comment SNOWFLAKE! It's really nice to know that my videos help. I hope I can help you in the future!
Paul
AddingLightProject
No, it is a polyester resin filler, made by 3m. You can contact 3m and ask them to provide you with a MSDS if you like. Material Safety Data Sheet.
Thanks Paul. I always enjoy your videos bro. God bless you.
great tip with bondo. easy to follow directions.
Thanks!
Just make sure that you are very careful when using a circular saw!
Have a good day!
Infernium 2068(part 2)
Lumber yards may also be able to special order it. If you replace it with mason board, you will want to prime both sides because it was found to hold up poorly under outdoor conditions unless it is sealed properly. If you can send me some photo's, I would be happy to view them and give you better information.
Good Luck!
Paul
Hi 64Albere,
Thank you for your comment! Good luck!
Paul
Hi rayrayenter,
If your roof sheathing is still good, you may be able to cut 2' sections of wood and scab it to the sides of each rafter tail. That is the least expensive way. It sounds like you have a roof problem that will need to be fixed. If your sheathing needs to be replaced and the roof also, I would suggest replacing the rafters at that point because replacing them is much easier when the roof is off. It is hard to tell without seeing the damage.(continue)----
Hey Lemonslice0212,
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad I could help!
Paul
Thanks Andycensus,I really appreciate your comment!
Paul
Great job Paul, I will be buying some body filler for some of my projects coming up! thumbs up
Love watching your video. I'm having a room addition built and we're at the phase of putting a roof on. But we noticed the fascia board has separated at the seams. And the contractor was telling his workers to fill it. I see a problem with water damage if not done properly. And I'm afraid I don't know enough to make sure it's done properly and the contractor wanting to cut corners. I'd love your opinion. thanks.
Hi Robert,
I will be happy to give you my opinion, but it is hard without seeing the work. If you take a couple of close up photos and send them to my email. I will let you know what I think. I work with a lot of different contractors and I can honestly say that we sometimes do things differently than each other. It doesn't mean that one way or the other is wrong. If I see a problem, I will share it with you. you can send me your photos via email at www.paulstoolbox.com
Thanks!
Paul
I try my best to explain everything, but sometimes I assume a little too much! I should have said that it becomes very water resistant after you apply primer and paint. I am also familiar with Evercoat Gold Rage,and not only agree that it is not waterproof unless sealed, but I would not suggest using premium body fillers in place of wood fillers since they can cost $50.00 or more for a gallon. Thanks for the tip , I will try not to make assumptions in future videos.
Paul
paul. your sucha cool guy. great teacher.
now that's how you do it! workmanship goes a long way!
Awesome video great job and thanks for the information, may God bless you.
If you can't nail the fascia joints on a rafter, nail timber blocking in between the rafters then nail the fascia to the blocking. I also find that spreading Bondo on the joins instead of glue then nailing it all together with back blocking I get a near invisible joints after it's sanded and painted.
I really appreciate the positive comments. I will do my best to give useful information.
Thanks!
Thank you, that is what I did and it worked great.
Very useful video Paul. I'm gonna work on my home when the weather here in Phoenix is a bit cooler. Right now, it's 115 degree with humidity!! Hahahaha