Nice video, tks! When I do that job I do all the cutting on the ground. I prime the entire fascia board with PGP Gripper paint (it used to be Glidden Gripper - a GREAT primer). Do 2 coats - let each coat fully dry. Then paint the entire board with 2 coats of top-quality exterior paint again wait for each coat to fully dry before applying a second coat. Then coat the entire bottom of the fascia board with a good coat of white or clear paintable caulk. This will help fight against hanging water droplets - use a glove-coated hand. Before nailing take the fascia board to the actual nailing location and carefully mark exactly where all the nail holes will be. Pre-drill the nail holes into the new fascia board so nailing goes smooth up there. All that is a lot more work but the result is worth it to me thinking who wants to do that job more than once. Should last forever. Remember the drip edging is berry important key. Regarding the ladder's proper angle position - stand facing a mounted ladder with your toe touching the base of the ladder leg extend your hands out to the ladder you want your hand-grip to be in the position to fully comfortably grasp a rung of the ladder. If they do not then adjust the ladder's angle until they do. For extra safety (not necessary) you can put 45-degree cut 4x4's or 6x6's at the base of the ladder legs with the sharp end at the legs to help prevent a ladder kick out. And you can drill holes in the 4x4's and drive a steel rod through those holes into the ground but do not leave the steel exposed in case of someone steps or falls there.
Super helpful, Bob! Exactly the direction I needed to work through my repairs. And the quote at the end hit a chord. Very well put. Thank you and keep ‘em coming!
Thank you for taking the time to post this instructional video! Getting ready to help a friend with her 100-year old house. Appreciate being able to see what to expect and what tools we need to bring to get the job done without running to the hardware store 15 times.
Patience is a the most important safety tip. Developing an attitude of ease and you’ll enjoy the projects and you’ll have the time to reflect on how to do the work safely.
Helpful. Not many videos on fascia/rake board repair/installation out there. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Mine is 2nd floor, over partial shingled roof with pitch ladder work and i dont like working with ladders on a roof.
Looks like I may not tackle the job myself as it is pretty dangerous on a second level, yet watching this vid is good stuff knowing what needs to be done. Tq.
Thanks Bob for that video. You really did nail it on the head for step by step. I appreciate your time you gave to making this video. that was cool how you pointed to the outriggers behind you perfectly!
None of the fascia replacement videos stress treating and finishing the new boards on the ground prior to installing them. In California where termites and dry rot are prevelant, I cut/fit my pieces, then coat with copper green to prevent rot and termites, then prime [must use oil-base primer with copper green] I give it one finish coat on all sides prior to install, then another on the visible area after install. I use coated deck screws, not nails. Sometimes I must add or fake outriggers so I have something to attached to. Again, I treat the outriggers as above and fasten with coated screws.
Definitely one of the hardest jobs I've ever done, of course I had no way to cut half of the nails as I had to remove the boards without removing or damaging the drip edge. But good job here
How did you nail the facia to the roof underlayment without damaging the shingles? Also, I"m told the vertical nails that were cut need to removed because with time they will work themselves loose and perforate the shingles.
Nailing down from the underlayment is not necessary just nail to the outriggers and adjoining fascia ....really, it works and stands the test of time. I've never heard of a problem with the nails working their way up. I think it will do more damage trying to remove them.
I see you nail to the out-rigger, but did you add nail from the top thru the roof decking? I didn't see you take off roofing tiles to nail thru the decking?
Great video! Regarding the splice. Did you glue, nail or screw the splice together ? I your saw your reply regarding this. Thanks Bob! How about some ca glue or wood glue ?
Mr C I think you mean the false beam. I cut off some of it and used some bondo and primed and painted it really well. Sometimes I flash the top side with metal
Did I miss something or did you show and tell how to nail from above like the old ones were and that you had to cut through the nails with the sawsall and oscillating tool? That's the process I'm looking for. How do you get the shingles out of the way?
I don’t do that, I don’t think anyone does. Just nail or screw on each end to joining fascias and nail to each “outrigger” it really does work and last.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Bob, I need to do this on my house, but I'm concerned about how to deal with the metal flashing/trim that sits above the fascia. it doesn't look like you even touched it. Can you expand on that? I'm worried about having to bend it out of the way or replace it and then screwing up the shingles, etc. Appreciate any advice on dealing with the flashing! Thanks!
Yes, that's something to be careful with especially when using the sawsall which is the fastest method. I bent it up slightly and held it there with a wedge while I did the cutting. The flashing should lay back down undamaged when your done.
I have termite damaged facia and other areas. What kind of wood do you recommend - treated wood, red wood etc? Depending on what kind, I plan to treat all wood with Bora-Care to prevent termites.
You should buy boards intended specifically for fascia. In my area it is typically spruce and it comes primed and dried. I'm not sure that is the case everywhere. I'm not familiar with the product you mentioned buy whatever you can do to discourage termites is a good idea. Be sure to caulk and paint well also.
Does the job become more difficult if you have to deal with drip edge? I didn't see that on yours, but I have it on mine. I'm wondering if just bending the drip edge back will be okay or if new drip edge will need to be installed.
I had one but because I had an extra layer of underlayment it only needed to be bent back slightly. Just bend it back evenly with something flat like putty knives.
Bob: you cut through the nails that connected the old facia board to the roof sheath, but did you nail the new facia to the roof sheath? In other words, how is the new facia attached to the roof?
I have the same problem with the edge of my fascia. But it’s only at the edge where the Fascia meets the gutter. Can I just remove the rotten part? The rot is about one foot. Thank you! Great video
Lots of factors to determine. Usually the best approach is to replace the whole thing but patching is an option and vinyl coverings are also an option. I would not recommend replacing only a foot or two.
How did you nail the facia board to the roof sheathing? You had cut off the nails that connected the roof sheathing to the facial board, so now how did you install the new nails ?
My neighbor handyman replaced a dry rotted facia board for me. My house does hot have any outriggers so he had to peel back the shingles to remove and nail a new one. I would like to do some replacements but I’m afraid to peel back my roof.
When replacing the fascia, do/can you use deck screws, finishing nails, brad nails, or framing nails? I'm getting ready to go around my house and replace the fascia, including behind the gutters, as well. I'm wanting to use the wood grain pvc board, is this a good idea? I'm here in Georgia, about 45 minutes southwest of Atlanta
I always use 16 p galvanized framing nails and maybe deck screws in the corners. Never used pvc but if it’s made for and the right size for fascia sounds like a reasonable option especially in a humid climate.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Georgia has some pretty bad humidity during the spring and summer months. Plus I don't wanna climb back up there anytime soon to fix it again lol.
Hi. I'm learning about roofing a bit to deal with some repairs I need to pay for and I'm just wanting to clarify some vocab.... This is actually a bargeboard and not fascia no? I am trying to be clear about their difference so I can discuss my repairs with my roofer. My understanding is that the bargeboard is the angled parts that make the triangles at the end of the houses or in the dormers etc, and the fascia is horizontal and is parallel with your straight across gutters. Thank you!
Yes you’re exactly right. Barge boards are also termed “rake rafters” . If you’re out buying materials fascia would be the more common term. There is generally more of it on your house and it’s the same material
SO I'm replacing the rake board, but there are no barge boards (or outriggers). I'm at a loss for something to nail to and considering using pocket holes. Anyone have an thoughts as to whether that would be ok?
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[1/2] ก็ไม่ได้ชอบเอาชนะ แต่เรื่องอะไรต้องแพ้!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JraaBYOd7I0/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video, tks! When I do that job I do all the cutting on the ground. I prime the entire fascia board with PGP Gripper paint (it used to be Glidden Gripper - a GREAT primer). Do 2 coats - let each coat fully dry. Then paint the entire board with 2 coats of top-quality exterior paint again wait for each coat to fully dry before applying a second coat. Then coat the entire bottom of the fascia board with a good coat of white or clear paintable caulk. This will help fight against hanging water droplets - use a glove-coated hand. Before nailing take the fascia board to the actual nailing location and carefully mark exactly where all the nail holes will be. Pre-drill the nail holes into the new fascia board so nailing goes smooth up there. All that is a lot more work but the result is worth it to me thinking who wants to do that job more than once. Should last forever. Remember the drip edging is berry important key.
Regarding the ladder's proper angle position - stand facing a mounted ladder with your toe touching the base of the ladder leg extend your hands out to the ladder you want your hand-grip to be in the position to fully comfortably grasp a rung of the ladder. If they do not then adjust the ladder's angle until they do.
For extra safety (not necessary) you can put 45-degree cut 4x4's or 6x6's at the base of the ladder legs with the sharp end at the legs to help prevent a ladder kick out. And you can drill holes in the 4x4's and drive a steel rod through those holes into the ground but do not leave the steel exposed in case of someone steps or falls there.
I'm a retired carpenter and still learning from you guys. Thank you.
Great to hear!
I saw many videos of repairs diferents proyect but this one was incredible. Thank you for share your knowledge.
Glad you liked it!
Super helpful, Bob! Exactly the direction I needed to work through my repairs. And the quote at the end hit a chord. Very well put. Thank you and keep ‘em coming!
Thanks for taking the time to make this helpful video. I saved me a good bit of money.
That's last advice was the best part ....other info was great too but I got more than expected.
Thank you
Thanks for the encouragement
" Better is a patient man than a warrior one, will self-control that one who takes a city" very powerful. Thank you a lot for your advice and video.
Thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to post this instructional video! Getting ready to help a friend with her 100-year old house. Appreciate being able to see what to expect and what tools we need to bring to get the job done without running to the hardware store 15 times.
Be safe!
Patience is a the most important safety tip. Developing an attitude of ease and you’ll enjoy the projects and you’ll have the time to reflect on how to do the work safely.
“an attitude of ease” I like that; I’m gonna use that phrase.
Thanks for the tutorial and ending your video with wisdom. Your setup and pointing were spot on too - really helpful and fantastic work : )
Matthew Reese thank you very much. Good luck with your work.
great job! love the long V cut to connect the 2 boards seamlessly
Great job with details and info! Straight to the point and informative!
Just what I was looking for! Very well done. Thank you!
Thanks Bob! Have to look into some rotten facia on my house in Florida and needed the advice. Appreciate the video
Pick a nice day... I! used to live in Mobile...it gets hot.
Helpful. Not many videos on fascia/rake board repair/installation out there. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Mine is 2nd floor, over partial shingled roof with pitch ladder work and i dont like working with ladders on a roof.
Me either, secure your ladder.
Good stuff old man. That proverb was a nice tuch.
Us old guys have a lot of wisdom .
Looks like I may not tackle the job myself as it is pretty dangerous on a second level, yet watching this vid is good stuff knowing what needs to be done. Tq.
Thanks Bob for that video. You really did nail it on the head for step by step. I appreciate your time you gave to making this video. that was cool how you pointed to the outriggers behind you perfectly!
You did a great job, thanks for the video... keep them coming pops!
You're welcome and thanks
Fantastic video and helpful. Nicely presented. Thanks Bob.
thanks!
Very thorough. Youve got a new subscriber Bob
Roofer here. I bought a little Fein MultiMaster back in 2011. NEVER been sorry I bought that little thing.
Nice work BTW!
Yep, they seems so cheesy but turn out to be so useful.
👍
Love mine
Thanks for the proverb. Needed that.
The best part was you sharing scripture with us. Great tips also!
thanks
Loved your video but I couldn't stop laughing at the helpful neighbors safety sandal, overall good video and hella good angles
Thanks , yes my neighbor always wears flip flops.
Hey Bob it looks great! BTW thanks for making this video, I'll use the knowledge to tackle my rotten dormers over here in north Atlanta.
I subbed BTW.
Bro. You are the most valuable tool around.
Thanks
..............thank you for your VIDEO, and your encouragement.
Helped me alot didnt even know until this vidoe got this problem
Thank you. Loved the Scripture you shared!
Thanks
Nice presentation. The "V" splice is brilliant.
Thanks
You did a great job and explained it well. Thank You!
Thanks, glad to help.
Thanks for sharing. I'll be replacing mine this week.
RoadSpawn glad to help
I like the helper dude on the roof working in sandals. That's totally me
Right on, thanks for the proverb!
Nice video thanks I appreciate it, I'm actually doing that tomorrow and a never done it before so your video is very helpful
You’re welcome be careful and patient!
Thanks for the tips!
James Hardi - Siding, siding panels, siding trim, FASCIA!!!!!
I replaced a section on one of our houses but used the new PVC board. More expensive but won't rot out. Has a smooth and wood look side.
Something I should investigate, I guess.
Thanks for the tips, Bob! About to replace a bunch of cedar fascia boards up here in Canada (Vancouver Island.)
You’re welcome . I have a friend up there.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage it’s a pretty nice place to be! But so is Southern California 🙂
Thank you for being helpful for others, God bless you
Thanks
Great job and detailed information
Very clean and Nice job
@ 2:00 Walter White makes a cameo appearance..."I think my little multi-tool is gonna work great for cutting nails".
Thanks Bob.
You are the man ...
thanks for the encouragement
hey Bob how did you nail the rafter from the top if the shingles are there ?
None of the fascia replacement videos stress treating and finishing the new boards on the ground prior to installing them. In California where termites and dry rot are prevelant, I cut/fit my pieces, then coat with copper green to prevent rot and termites, then prime [must use oil-base primer with copper green] I give it one finish coat on all sides prior to install, then another on the visible area after install. I use coated deck screws, not nails. Sometimes I must add or fake outriggers so I have something to attached to. Again, I treat the outriggers as above and fasten with coated screws.
Good imput, can't do too much to prevent rot and termites.
Great video. I'm in freezing cold Scotland, so I guess I'll need to adjust things slightly! For one, everything's covered in tarred roofing felt!
Yes, and probably soffits as well. Hope I was of some help.
Thanks Bob, I appreciate you.
Thanks
Thank you for the information and tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job man! Thanks for sharing!
Nice job thanks for making this vidz its verry helpful
Youre welcome
Really enjoyed this. Great delivery. Can't send that neighbour Down Under can you? He's useful.
Ha! He’d love to come if you pay his way.
first vid i've seen that addresses the nails thru the drip edge!
Good information . Liked your video.
Thank you for so much info helped a lot
Glad it helped!
Amen!
Great Video!
Thanks!
You do a great job
Thanks
You can always just cut a straight line as well and connect them both to a rafter then bondo the seam, v's can be hard to make for some people
Definitely one of the hardest jobs I've ever done, of course I had no way to cut half of the nails as I had to remove the boards without removing or damaging the drip edge. But good job here
I totally agree!
great job.
Great video!
Thanks
Great vid bro
Thanks
Awesome man, thanks 👍
Youre welcome
Amen brother
The bible text was an extra bonus. Thanks.
My pleasure and thanks
Thank you 👍
You're welcome
How did you nail the facia to the roof underlayment without damaging the shingles? Also, I"m told the vertical nails that were cut need to removed because with time they will work themselves loose and perforate the shingles.
Nailing down from the underlayment is not necessary just nail to the outriggers and adjoining fascia ....really, it works and stands the test of time. I've never heard of a problem with the nails working their way up. I think it will do more damage trying to remove them.
Great video. Sorry if I missed this, but what was the purpose of making the v-cut to spice the two pieces together versus just a straight line?
A simple butt joint will develop a gap over time. It also creates one big long strong board.
Ty mine is rotted this helped!
Glad to help
Great video; great bible verse; thanks for that; good luck in S. California too; !!!!!!
A very helpful video just a quick question how did you get the angle you did in minute 4. how do you do those corners
I mitered them however, butts are easier, stronger really better in the long run.
Great video. How did you secure those two 'V' pieces to each other with the splice? Or did you put them up as two separate pieces?
Nails on the narrow part of the v and construction adhesive. The adhesive is just my idea but it seems like a good one.
I like working with the old timers they no what there doing unlike these young punks now I'm taking my equipment back
I'm an "old timer" right?
@@BobsTwoCarGarage r u grouchy hard on your students like them in trailers from time to time grouchy but a teddy bear actually if so your a old timer
You are kind of a badass Sir 😎.
I take that as a compliment.
Try AZEK PVC Trimboards.
thank you for this! very helfpul
You're so welcome!
Isn’’t the edge metal flashing nailed to the fascia board? How do you nail the flashing from the top once the fascia board is installed?
Yes, but you will be cutting them when you are cutting the other nails.
I see you nail to the out-rigger, but did you add nail from the top thru the roof decking? I didn't see you take off roofing tiles to nail thru the decking?
No, a lot of people ask that but its not necessary. There is a way to do that without removing the shingles but I don't recommend it.
Great video! Regarding the splice. Did you glue, nail or screw the splice together ? I your saw your reply regarding this. Thanks Bob! How about some ca glue or wood glue ?
Nailed it as far in as possible and constriction adhesive .
Can you please tell how you repaired and water sealed the rafter sticking out of the peak of the roof ? It looked pretty beat up
Mr C I think you mean the false beam. I cut off some of it and used some bondo and primed and painted it really well. Sometimes I flash the top side with metal
Thanks for your reply bob ! I’m also in so cal
Great video !!! You sound like John Wayne !!!
You think so? That’s a new one thanks
Close your eyes, and Walter White is teaching you how to replace fascia.
Really? okay.
Did I miss something or did you show and tell how to nail from above like the old ones were and that you had to cut through the nails with the sawsall and oscillating tool? That's the process I'm looking for. How do you get the shingles out of the way?
I don’t do that, I don’t think anyone does. Just nail or screw on each end to joining fascias and nail to each “outrigger” it really does work and last.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Bob, I need to do this on my house, but I'm concerned about how to deal with the metal flashing/trim that sits above the fascia. it doesn't look like you even touched it. Can you expand on that? I'm worried about having to bend it out of the way or replace it and then screwing up the shingles, etc. Appreciate any advice on dealing with the flashing! Thanks!
Yes, that's something to be careful with especially when using the sawsall which is the fastest method. I bent it up slightly and held it there with a wedge while I did the cutting. The flashing should lay back down undamaged when your done.
I have termite damaged facia and other areas. What kind of wood do you recommend - treated wood, red wood etc? Depending on what kind, I plan to treat all wood with Bora-Care to prevent termites.
You should buy boards intended specifically for fascia. In my area it is typically spruce and it comes primed and dried. I'm not sure that is the case everywhere. I'm not familiar with the product you mentioned buy whatever you can do to discourage termites is a good idea. Be sure to caulk and paint well also.
How were you able to replace the boards without bending the flashing like I did when I replaced mine?
Try to bend the flashing up and then cut.
Does the job become more difficult if you have to deal with drip edge? I didn't see that on yours, but I have it on mine. I'm wondering if just bending the drip edge back will be okay or if new drip edge will need to be installed.
I had one but because I had an extra layer of underlayment it only needed to be bent back slightly. Just bend it back evenly with something flat like putty knives.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Okay, sounds good and very good video! Thanks! 👍👍👍
Thank you! Good info for me- much appreciated. Sorry, but I just have to ask... are you standing on a slanted part of the roof wearing flip flops?
Ha ha, yes on the slant flip flops would have been in order but, no.
thats my "helpful neighbor." I'd never think of setting such a bad example.
Bob: you cut through the nails that connected the old facia board to the roof sheath, but did you nail the new facia to the roof sheath? In other words, how is the new facia attached to the roof?
That’s a very common question . The new fascia is not nailed from the top. You depend on the rafter tails or the “outriggers” to hold it In place.
I have the same problem with the edge of my fascia. But it’s only at the edge where the Fascia meets the gutter. Can I just remove the rotten part? The rot is about one foot. Thank you! Great video
Lots of factors to determine. Usually the best approach is to replace the whole thing but patching is an option and vinyl coverings are also an option. I would not recommend replacing only a foot or two.
Where on the run did you place the splice?Over an outrigger?
It doesn’t matter you can nail from the edge to keep it lined up. It really works
Nice
thanks
I assume there is no way to re-attach the starter strip/roof felt without making a real mess of the roofing?
Correct
How did you nail the facia board to the roof sheathing? You had cut off the nails that connected the roof sheathing to the facial board, so now how did you install the new nails ?
I get asked that a lot . It’s not necessary. Really, it’s never done.
My neighbor handyman replaced a dry rotted facia board for me. My house does hot have any outriggers so he had to peel back the shingles to remove and nail a new one. I would like to do some replacements but I’m afraid to peel back my roof.
Working in a spinal and head injury rehab hospital has ruined any chance of me climbing up a ladder to save money. Good job though!
Understandable, ladders are 80% of this job.
When replacing the fascia, do/can you use deck screws, finishing nails, brad nails, or framing nails? I'm getting ready to go around my house and replace the fascia, including behind the gutters, as well. I'm wanting to use the wood grain pvc board, is this a good idea? I'm here in Georgia, about 45 minutes southwest of Atlanta
If you have a compressor get a 15 or 16 gauge finish nailer. The PVC is just fine its just more flexible so having someone to help you will be a must.
@@captjack8133 thank you for the response! I have a milwaukee m18 but also have a pretty good compressor that I can roll around if needed.
I always use 16 p galvanized framing nails and maybe deck screws in the corners. Never used pvc but if it’s made for and the right size for fascia sounds like a reasonable option especially in a humid climate.
Finish nails will rust so not a good idea.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Georgia has some pretty bad humidity during the spring and summer months. Plus I don't wanna climb back up there anytime soon to fix it again lol.
The Indiana Jones of handymen!
That’s a new one
Hi. I'm learning about roofing a bit to deal with some repairs I need to pay for and I'm just wanting to clarify some vocab.... This is actually a bargeboard and not fascia no? I am trying to be clear about their difference so I can discuss my repairs with my roofer. My understanding is that the bargeboard is the angled parts that make the triangles at the end of the houses or in the dormers etc, and the fascia is horizontal and is parallel with your straight across gutters. Thank you!
Yes you’re exactly right. Barge boards are also termed “rake rafters” . If you’re out buying materials fascia would be the more common term. There is generally more of it on your house and it’s the same material
Lots of good illustrations out there www.bespokeguttering.co.uk/what-are-fascias-soffits-barge-boards/
SO I'm replacing the rake board, but there are no barge boards (or outriggers). I'm at a loss for something to nail to and considering using pocket holes. Anyone have an thoughts as to whether that would be ok?
Bruno DeLuca got a photo? I don’t think I’d trust those boards to hold the rake board.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Yes, I have a photo. How would I send it to you?