Mazdas are notorious for the sway bar centering rings (looks like a crimped hose clamp/rubber ring around the bar on each side) working loose, allowing the sway bar to shift laterally in the "D" bushings. This could be allowing the sway bar to hit things (my guess is the lower control arm). If you can see a gap between these centering rings and your D bushings then your sway bar is moving around as you turn, etc. Simply working them back into place with a hammer and screwdriver or rachet extension won't cure it, they will just walk back out within miles. Once they get loose, it's loose. There is a fix I have used. Get some heater hose with an inside diameter smaller than the sway bar. Cut two 1/2" long pieces, split them so you can get it around the bar on the INSIDE of the "D" bushings. Center the bar really good, then use some heavy duty hose clamps around those heater hose pieces and spank them down hard. After that tap the stock centering rings back in where they belong. Hope this helps.
Man I’ve been going insane trying to figure out the clunking in my Yaris ia (basically a Mazda 2). Ice seen those centering rings that you speak of. I’ll check those out and see if that’s the source of the clunk.
Thanks for the video! I just did this on my 2007 Mazda 3 sedan and holy mother of heck was it a tough job getting at the bolts and, most frustratingly, getting the new bushings and brackets back on. Took patience and 3 lbs of skin from my hands to get the job done, but totally rewarding. My saving grace was a flat crow bar pushing down on the brackets so that I could have a chance at getting the bolts back in.
Bought a 194K mile survivor, ie no maintenance done..and found all 4 end links were shot, rattled upon inspection in their own bores. Both LBJ boots were ripped, both outer tie rod end boots were ripped, both CV joints were ripped and dry. The only thing I found good was the LCAs were very tight and I could barely pry them down to service the CV axles. All new stuff and its quiet now! then I heard a growling sound that seemed to shift from side to side and ended up replacing both front wheel bearings (make sure to stake the CV nuts at 180 ft/lbs as these hold the inner bearing race together otherwise they will come loose and the inner race will lose its preload and the bearing will start to growl again) . inspected intermediate shaft for wear and it seemed to be good as the 1/8 side to side play is designed into the shaft as the OD of the bearing bore is finished to this spec and the center shaft is pressed onto the bearing inner race so side to side play is normal. I get a loud grumbling upon initial acceleration from a stop. I gotta believe its motor mounts as the growling stops once under way and you can almost contrl it by feathering the throttle. This tells me there is a bushing that has failed inside a mount ad Im getting metal on metal contact and the growling is engine vibration transmitted stright to frame, probably the lower mount or the one under the battery as both of these look to get torsional stress from the motor when placed under load. Im getting all 4 this weekend and will report back what I find here.
My daughters 2009 Mazda 3 still had a knock after replacing the front passenger tie rod and sway bar link. Put it on a lift: rotated the tire forward and put my hand on the axle. I could feel a little grind and knock. Replaced passenger axle: no more knock/pop. The problem was solved.
You’re top engine mount is cracked... just replaced mine. Sound is gone and full power returned, btw, you really should provide an answer for all the people who have posted on your vid wether you fixed it.
@@brotherhood_ofstreetracers4268 yeah righto, but in Australia, right hand drive, the mount is on the drivers side not far from the top where the valve cover sits. Why would I tell lies and waste my time , if I could only post a photo here you would see 🤙🏼
I replaced the front sway bar links but the noise was still there. So I removed one of the links, put a temporary bolt in the ABS bracket and drove around the block.....no clunk. So I'm fairly sure its the sway bar bushes. I have ordered new bushes and will let you guys know if that is a permanent fix. New bushes are in and its all fixed. The old ones didn't show much wear but they were certainly the problem.
@@TJHeinzo I just went down to my local Mazda dealer and ordered the genuine factory ones. My front sway bar is the standard one from the factory so it was easy to get replacement bushes. The new bushes certainly fixed the problem, the clunk noise is gone completely now.
So, I'm not sure if Im having the same problem or not, sounds like a knock/pop, but is not my exhaust. I can some what feel it from the floor. But the noise to me while driving sounds like it is coming from the rear passenger. At higher rpms cant seem to notice it as often. It mostly when moving slow, when in gear like traffic or with deceleration and minor bumps. Although today it did it today, OUT of gear but still coasting slowly un traffic and minor bumps. Would you please respond and confirm if any of this sounds similar or not? Id like to know if maybe it sounds like the back but is the front, if it was the same with you?
It’s the transmission mount 100% if you’ve fixed everything else’s On my 2011 Mazdaspeed3 3, you have to remove the battery, battery tray, and factory air filter housing (if you don’t have an aftermarket intake). You can get underneath to barely get access to the transmission mount and move the mount with a pry bar. Mine was completely destroyed when I got access to it. The knocking sound was horrendous and felt like my whole transmission/engine was going to fall out. Don’t go with OEM. Get a quality aftermarket.
Paul Gibbons 0 seconds ago 2006 Mazda 3 HB replaced struts, wheel bearings, CV axels, lower controls arms/bushings, tie rods, sway bar links, engine mounts... clunking sound still there. It's mostly apparent when going straight over bumps rough/rough surfaces.. I suspect 2 remaining causes: Steering rack bushings, OR intermediate drive shaft bearings (there is about 1/8' play side to side) I'm positive now its internal on the steering rack.. if a bushing is toast, then the shaft that runs through it will lift and fall against the tube when the suspension rises and falls.. it's less apparent in turns as there is tension on the steering rack, therefore keeping the steering rack shaft tense as to not bounce around as much.
I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed3 w/ 83K miles and both my front and rear ends make excessive clunking noises -- esp when traversing slowly over short, choppy bumps. A mechanic has told me that all looks good as far as the suspension goes, but that they cannot isolate where the noises are coming from. The noises drive me crazy. Struts and shocks (Koni FSDs) are in good working order, so it's not the dampers. Front strut bearings were just replaced, so that's not the problem. Front and rear damper mounts look good. Sway bar bushings were replaced not so long ago. Yet the noises have only increased in intensity. Wish I could figure it out! Great car, but the noises are extremely annoying. Sounds like the damned car is falling apart.
Andrew McGoey I am having the same issue! I have a 2006 Mazda 3 ( standard transmission) 198k. I bought the car almost new ( at 4K ) so I know everything done to it over the years. My passenger side back sounds like I have a bag of metal wrench’s in the trunk ( I don’t) . I have had the shocks , struts, bushings recently replaces , and just yesterday a stabilizing link kit put on. My mechanic who I trust said it is all good. Every time I drive over a bump that metal on metal sounds like my back side is going to fall off. Did you ever figure your issue?
@@thehealthnut1503 : Nope. Still hear clunking and groaning from both the front and back -- esp on short-choppy bumps at low speed. Sounds like a piece of junk. Yet at highway speeds, all is good (unless the bumps get nasty). Ugh!
Andrew McGoey mine is the same way! On highway is just fine but going slow over bumps that damn metal on metal noise keeps coming from the passenger back side. It sounds horrible like it is a piece of junk. I baby the heck out of my Mazda also so this makes me sad. Going to have a friend look at it this week to get his take on it. I will let you know if we can figure it out. Good luck. 🍀
@@thehealthnut1503 Mine has the same symptoms, no sounds on smooth highway but on side streets/small bumps/slower speeds, I'm getting the clunking. Any results from your findings two weeks ago? Thanks in advance!
Jon M MPGBRUH I haven’t had the issue fixed however I did take my car to a friends house and he is suggesting that I have a loose rear right upper mounting nut. I agree with him because I have had the back end basically redone over the last year. I will have my mechanic look at it the next time I go in for an oil change.
Check the large bushing at the rear of the lower control arm on both sides as well. Wifes car had knocking garage said front sway bar end links changed them guess what still knocking. Noticed bushing slip on large bushing on control arms so doing those and if i still have issues will do centre of steering rack and check top engine mount on right if still happens bearings in top of strut towers. Mazdas seem to be prone to bushes crapping out
Just a thought but I’m pretty sure the bolts for the lower control arm are fitted upside down. The protruding bolt is catching the sway bar but if the bolt was fitted from the top down this wouldn’t happen. Nearly all control arms have the bolts fitted from top to bottom in the event the nut works itself loose the bolt won’t drop out.
The bushings start life as plump(er) and hard rubbery texture. As the years go by they shrink a little and turn harder and more "plastic'y", basically less of a cushion / damper, and more of a loose'ish spacer depending on the age of the part. That is probably enough to allow too much movement in the sway bar, knocking into the protruding bolt.
I have the same car; MS3 2008 130k mi with the same issues as everyone is describing. I also have not found the solution. One thing I did to eliminate the sway bar system from the possible cause (and end links) is to remove the s/b end links from the car; suspend the sway bars with wire and took it for a drive. For me the suspension "clunking" persisted without the F&R sway bars engaged with the control arms so it's obviously something else. I have also replaced F/R struts, shocks. All wheel bearings, motor mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, CV axels, have all been inspected for wear or play- nothing. My solution was to put some Judas Priest... etc in the CD player and crank the volume. One additional note: I bought this car used with ~ 80k mi and the "clunking" which was evident then is no worse now with 130k mi.
But what I find out is that the end of stering rack on the pasanger side make that same exact clunk when I turn my stering when is only one clunk is when stering is centered and is slightly moved either side
Looks like the sway bar is upgraded thicker than stock. You may need to replace the suspension bolt or just cut the bolt down a quarter of an inch. By the way, moog parts are shit.
I just hope is my inner tied rod and not the entire stering rack is gonna get checked today extra note I heard these noise when I go over a bumb a little hard or when I pull out of my drive way and as soon as i go forward or reverse especially when I'm turning and I pull it a little hard I can clearly herd that fricking clunck
I just saw your problem. I have the same problem. Your rear springs are compress so much over time that the shocks are the only thing keeping your car up. The knocking sound is from the car frame hitting against the top of the shocks when you go over a bump.
I'm goin trew the same thing with my mzda 3 2009 I replaced control arms the swaybar bushings even 2 of those broke was pain getting that fix I replaced saybar links and the noise still persist
Not really. I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I wish I had a definitive answer.
Hey, did you fix clonk noise? I think I have clonk noise too in my Mazda3 MPS / Mazdaspeed3, I changed the front upper mounts, a good ones, and It stopped making the clonk noise, but after 1-2 hours driving, started again. My car do the clonk noise too turning the steering wheel with the car stopped, I don't know what's the next I can check, maybe defective front upper mounts? maybe greasing the front sway bar bushings? sway bar end links? steering ball joints? lower control arm bushings?
I wasn't able to fix the clunking noises, but...I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I also sprayed all of the damper rods and suspension articulation points with Total Cycle S100 corrosion protectant aerosol. That seemed to help as well. I have no idea why. Ugh. I wish I had a definitive answer. Perhaps replacement of the upper engine mount would work? I know those go bad after a few yrs.
@@10slover62 I checked all the bushings of the front and looks good, so after the quarantine, I am gonna install new polyurethane front sway bar bushings, new front end links, and the both Hardrace motor mounts, l wish to fix the "clonk" sound and start search the fix for a "clicky" sound that i have near the front wheels too haha! Thanks
Just a thought but I’m pretty sure the bolts for the lower control arm are fitted upside down. The protruding bolt is catching the sway bar but if the bolt was fitted from the top down this wouldn’t happen. Nearly all control arms have the bolts fitted from top to bottom in the event the nut works itself loose the bolt won’t drop out.
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
There is a Mazda TSB to replace the lower control arm bushings. I'm having the same problem as everyone one else here. My mechanic says everything is safe. Next I'm replacing the sway bar and control bar bushings.
Was it your bushings? I have the same problem on my 2007 ms3 front and back clunking noise over bumps? Replaced front end links & rear sway bar bushing / brackets still the noise persists?
I don't think so. I replaced the bushings and the clunking remained. I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
Hi guys.. any ideas on a fix as yet.. My Mazda 3 MPS is driving me insane.. I had thi issue about a year ago and I replaced the sway bar link and problem was fixed.. now it start again after 12 months.. I replaced the strut and sway bar links and still with the same klunkingggg sound... any ideas.
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
Have had a noise from front side for years on 2008 3. Mechanic I trust took a good listen over bumpy road. He eventually did a thorough inspection and narrowed it down to subframe bushings. Sadly you can't get OEM bushings and one aftermarket company is the only option.
I'm driving Mazda3 2012 having the same problem. Knocking happens only when I hit the speed bump with steering turned to one side. I had changed strut mount, all 3 engine/trans mount, lower arm, control link, sway bar bush. Problem still.
I wasn't able to totally fix the clunking noises, but...I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I also sprayed all of the damper rods and suspension articulation points with Total Cycle S100 corrosion protectant aerosol. That seemed to help as well. I have no idea why. Ugh. I wish I had a definitive answer. Perhaps replacement of the upper engine mount would work? I know those go bad after a few yrs.
They're accessible with the wheel off and if you gimp your hands and go via the track rod. I've heard/seen you can do them over the back of the subframe too.
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
I wasn't able to fix the clunking noises, but...I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I also sprayed all of the damper rods and suspension articulation points with Total Cycle S100 corrosion protectant aerosol. That seemed to help as well. I have no idea why. Ugh. I wish I had a definitive answer. Perhaps replacement of the upper engine mount would work? I know those go bad after a few yrs.
@@10slover62 Actually this week im going to be replacing my lower control arm with a MEVOTECH brand, The dealerships said there was no problem but im hearing creaking going over bumps. hopefully it is the bearing on the control arm
I have a 2008 mazda 3 I change almost all of the suspension parts and the noise still there I took it to the shop they sed the motor mounts so I did it the noise still there my last pice to change sway bar bushings Im going crazy this problem lol please help!!.
The noise could be from your rack and pinion going bad. I have the same clunking noise in my 2009 mazda 3. Was told by a mechanic a year ago the rack and pinion was seeping. The clunk could be a drying out rack and pinion.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D5 | Fall | พลาดวันนี้ จะต้องเสียใจ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A5-Cuo12p6A/mqdefault.jpg)
Mazdas are notorious for the sway bar centering rings (looks like a crimped hose clamp/rubber ring around the bar on each side) working loose, allowing the sway bar to shift laterally in the "D" bushings. This could be allowing the sway bar to hit things (my guess is the lower control arm). If you can see a gap between these centering rings and your D bushings then your sway bar is moving around as you turn, etc. Simply working them back into place with a hammer and screwdriver or rachet extension won't cure it, they will just walk back out within miles. Once they get loose, it's loose. There is a fix I have used. Get some heater hose with an inside diameter smaller than the sway bar. Cut two 1/2" long pieces, split them so you can get it around the bar on the INSIDE of the "D" bushings. Center the bar really good, then use some heavy duty hose clamps around those heater hose pieces and spank them down hard. After that tap the stock centering rings back in where they belong. Hope this helps.
Man I’ve been going insane trying to figure out the clunking in my Yaris ia (basically a Mazda 2). Ice seen those centering rings that you speak of.
I’ll check those out and see if that’s the source of the clunk.
Thanks for the video! I just did this on my 2007 Mazda 3 sedan and holy mother of heck was it a tough job getting at the bolts and, most frustratingly, getting the new bushings and brackets back on. Took patience and 3 lbs of skin from my hands to get the job done, but totally rewarding. My saving grace was a flat crow bar pushing down on the brackets so that I could have a chance at getting the bolts back in.
Was I hell of a job yesterday taking out & putting in my control arms in 2008 m3 😅them bolts or a mf lol
Bought a 194K mile survivor, ie no maintenance done..and found all 4 end links were shot, rattled upon inspection in their own bores. Both LBJ boots were ripped, both outer tie rod end boots were ripped, both CV joints were ripped and dry. The only thing I found good was the LCAs were very tight and I could barely pry them down to service the CV axles. All new stuff and its quiet now! then I heard a growling sound that seemed to shift from side to side and ended up replacing both front wheel bearings (make sure to stake the CV nuts at 180 ft/lbs as these hold the inner bearing race together otherwise they will come loose and the inner race will lose its preload and the bearing will start to growl again) . inspected intermediate shaft for wear and it seemed to be good as the 1/8 side to side play is designed into the shaft as the OD of the bearing bore is finished to this spec and the center shaft is pressed onto the bearing inner race so side to side play is normal. I get a loud grumbling upon initial acceleration from a stop. I gotta believe its motor mounts as the growling stops once under way and you can almost contrl it by feathering the throttle. This tells me there is a bushing that has failed inside a mount ad Im getting metal on metal contact and the growling is engine vibration transmitted stright to frame, probably the lower mount or the one under the battery as both of these look to get torsional stress from the motor when placed under load. Im getting all 4 this weekend and will report back what I find here.
I got the same problem a day ago, I got the lower control arm replaced by a mechanic solved the issue for me. Lower control arm was totaled lol
For people if they tried all that and still have an issue there's a TSB for Mazda 3s of 2010 year range subframe bushings making noise over bumps
My daughters 2009 Mazda 3 still had a knock after replacing the front passenger tie rod and sway bar link. Put it on a lift: rotated the tire forward and put my hand on the axle. I could feel a little grind and knock. Replaced passenger axle: no more knock/pop. The problem was solved.
You’re top engine mount is cracked... just replaced mine. Sound is gone and full power returned, btw, you really should provide an answer for all the people who have posted on your vid wether you fixed it.
Top? Theres a rear motor mount a transmission mount and a passenger side motor mount
@@brotherhood_ofstreetracers4268 yeah righto, but in Australia, right hand drive, the mount is on the drivers side not far from the top where the valve cover sits. Why would I tell lies and waste my time , if I could only post a photo here you would see 🤙🏼
Your problem is the sway bar bushings! They might seem ok but they’re not. I had my Mazda speed for 13 years and had them replaced twice
I replaced the front sway bar links but the noise was still there. So I removed one of the links, put a temporary bolt in the ABS bracket and drove around the block.....no clunk.
So I'm fairly sure its the sway bar bushes.
I have ordered new bushes and will let you guys know if that is a permanent fix.
New bushes are in and its all fixed.
The old ones didn't show much wear but they were certainly the problem.
Hey which bushings did you order? And did they fit the stock sway bar?
@@TJHeinzo I just went down to my local Mazda dealer and ordered the genuine factory ones. My front sway bar is the standard one from the factory so it was easy to get replacement bushes. The new bushes certainly fixed the problem, the clunk noise is gone completely now.
So, I'm not sure if Im having the same problem or not, sounds like a knock/pop, but is not my exhaust. I can some what feel it from the floor. But the noise to me while driving sounds like it is coming from the rear passenger. At higher rpms cant seem to notice it as often. It mostly when moving slow, when in gear like traffic or with deceleration and minor bumps. Although today it did it today, OUT of gear but still coasting slowly un traffic and minor bumps. Would you please respond and confirm if any of this sounds similar or not? Id like to know if maybe it sounds like the back but is the front, if it was the same with you?
It’s the transmission mount 100% if you’ve fixed everything else’s On my 2011 Mazdaspeed3 3, you have to remove the battery, battery tray, and factory air filter housing (if you don’t have an aftermarket intake). You can get underneath to barely get access to the transmission mount and move the mount with a pry bar. Mine was completely destroyed when I got access to it. The knocking sound was horrendous and felt like my whole transmission/engine was going to fall out. Don’t go with OEM. Get a quality aftermarket.
Paul Gibbons
0 seconds ago
2006 Mazda 3 HB
replaced struts, wheel bearings, CV axels, lower controls arms/bushings, tie rods, sway bar links, engine mounts... clunking sound still there. It's mostly apparent when going straight over bumps rough/rough surfaces.. I suspect 2 remaining causes: Steering rack bushings, OR intermediate drive shaft bearings (there is about 1/8' play side to side)
I'm positive now its internal on the steering rack.. if a bushing is toast, then the shaft that runs through it will lift and fall against the tube when the suspension rises and falls.. it's less apparent in turns as there is tension on the steering rack, therefore keeping the steering rack shaft tense as to not bounce around as much.
I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed3 w/ 83K miles and both my front and rear ends make excessive clunking noises -- esp when traversing slowly over short, choppy bumps. A mechanic has told me that all looks good as far as the suspension goes, but that they cannot isolate where the noises are coming from. The noises drive me crazy. Struts and shocks (Koni FSDs) are in good working order, so it's not the dampers. Front strut bearings were just replaced, so that's not the problem. Front and rear damper mounts look good. Sway bar bushings were replaced not so long ago. Yet the noises have only increased in intensity. Wish I could figure it out! Great car, but the noises are extremely annoying. Sounds like the damned car is falling apart.
Andrew McGoey I am having the same issue! I have a 2006 Mazda 3 ( standard transmission) 198k. I bought the car almost new ( at 4K ) so I know everything done to it over the years. My passenger side back sounds like I have a bag of metal wrench’s in the trunk ( I don’t) . I have had the shocks , struts, bushings recently replaces , and just yesterday a stabilizing link kit put on. My mechanic who I trust said it is all good. Every time I drive over a bump that metal on metal sounds like my back side is going to fall off. Did you ever figure your issue?
@@thehealthnut1503 : Nope. Still hear clunking and groaning from both the front and back -- esp on short-choppy bumps at low speed. Sounds like a piece of junk. Yet at highway speeds, all is good (unless the bumps get nasty). Ugh!
Andrew McGoey mine is the same way! On highway is just fine but going slow over bumps that damn metal on metal noise keeps coming from the passenger back side. It sounds horrible like it is a piece of junk. I baby the heck out of my Mazda also so this makes me sad. Going to have a friend look at it this week to get his take on it. I will let you know if we can figure it out. Good luck. 🍀
@@thehealthnut1503 Mine has the same symptoms, no sounds on smooth highway but on side streets/small bumps/slower speeds, I'm getting the clunking. Any results from your findings two weeks ago? Thanks in advance!
Jon M MPGBRUH I haven’t had the issue fixed however I did take my car to a friends house and he is suggesting that I have a loose rear right upper mounting nut. I agree with him because I have had the back end basically redone over the last year. I will have my mechanic look at it the next time I go in for an oil change.
Check the large bushing at the rear of the lower control arm on both sides as well.
Wifes car had knocking garage said front sway bar end links changed them guess what still knocking.
Noticed bushing slip on large bushing on control arms so doing those and if i still have issues will do centre of steering rack and check top engine mount on right if still happens bearings in top of strut towers.
Mazdas seem to be prone to bushes crapping out
Just a thought but I’m pretty sure the bolts for the lower control arm are fitted upside down. The protruding bolt is catching the sway bar but if the bolt was fitted from the top down this wouldn’t happen. Nearly all control arms have the bolts fitted from top to bottom in the event the nut works itself loose the bolt won’t drop out.
Only that end is threaded. I just did mine. Unless, of course, the control arms were installed upside down. Totally possible, and now I'm worried.
Nah, thats the way they are on a mazda 3
Struts, stabilizer links front and back, sway bar bushings front and back. JBR transmission and engine mount. Knocking finally went away.
Make sure your inside tie rod ends are not loose from the inside, they tend to loosen when turned by aligning them.
The bushings start life as plump(er) and hard rubbery texture. As the years go by they shrink a little and turn harder and more "plastic'y", basically less of a cushion / damper, and more of a loose'ish spacer depending on the age of the part. That is probably enough to allow too much movement in the sway bar, knocking into the protruding bolt.
If the links are new it must be the bushings.Those bushings look worn so it must be them
I have the same car; MS3 2008 130k mi with the same issues as everyone is describing. I also have not found the solution. One thing I did to eliminate the sway bar system from the possible cause (and end links) is to remove the s/b end links from the car; suspend the sway bars with wire and took it for a drive. For me the suspension "clunking" persisted without the F&R sway bars engaged with the control arms so it's obviously something else. I have also replaced F/R struts, shocks. All wheel bearings, motor mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, CV axels, have all been inspected for wear or play- nothing. My solution was to put some Judas Priest... etc in the CD player and crank the volume. One additional note: I bought this car used with ~ 80k mi and the "clunking" which was evident then is no worse now with 130k mi.
Lower control arm rear bushes
Definitely that CV axel. Could also be motor mounts but it’s most likely that CV axel.
Not cv axle replace all those on mine qp along with everything but sway bar bushings
But what I find out is that the end of stering rack on the pasanger side make that same exact clunk when I turn my stering when is only one clunk is when stering is centered and is slightly moved either side
Looks like the sway bar is upgraded thicker than stock. You may need to replace the suspension bolt or just cut the bolt down a quarter of an inch. By the way, moog parts are shit.
Same thing wrong with my 2008 speed3. Can't figure out what is causing this clunk.
I just hope is my inner tied rod and not the entire stering rack is gonna get checked today extra note I heard these noise when I go over a bumb a little hard or when I pull out of my drive way and as soon as i go forward or reverse especially when I'm turning and I pull it a little hard I can clearly herd that fricking clunck
Also you can remove your tie rod ends and see if the inner Rod has any play
These mazdas are about as tough as a chocolate chip cookie.
I got sick of dealing with it and bought a truck.
Never going back.
I've got a 2014 Mazda 3 and can't for the life of me figure out this roaring/gurring sound when low speed turning. Mostly turning left.
Ive got a knocking sound at the rear on both sides
I just saw your problem. I have the same problem. Your rear springs are compress so much over time that the shocks are the only thing keeping your car up. The knocking sound is from the car frame hitting against the top of the shocks when you go over a bump.
I'm goin trew the same thing with my mzda 3 2009 I replaced control arms the swaybar bushings even 2 of those broke was pain getting that fix I replaced saybar links and the noise still persist
Every resolve problem!??? Ive tried everything o my 07 speed cant find it
Not really. I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I wish I had a definitive answer.
Hey, did you fix clonk noise? I think I have clonk noise too in my Mazda3 MPS / Mazdaspeed3, I changed the front upper mounts, a good ones, and It stopped making the clonk noise, but after 1-2 hours driving, started again.
My car do the clonk noise too
turning the steering wheel with the car stopped, I don't know what's the next I can check, maybe defective front upper mounts? maybe greasing the front sway bar bushings? sway bar end links? steering ball joints? lower control arm bushings?
I wasn't able to fix the clunking noises, but...I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I also sprayed all of the damper rods and suspension articulation points with Total Cycle S100 corrosion protectant aerosol. That seemed to help as well. I have no idea why. Ugh. I wish I had a definitive answer. Perhaps replacement of the upper engine mount would work? I know those go bad after a few yrs.
@@10slover62 I checked all the bushings of the front and looks good, so after the quarantine, I am gonna install new polyurethane front sway bar bushings, new front end links, and the both Hardrace motor mounts, l wish to fix the "clonk" sound and start search the fix for a "clicky" sound that i have near the front wheels too haha! Thanks
Just a thought but I’m pretty sure the bolts for the lower control arm are fitted upside down. The protruding bolt is catching the sway bar but if the bolt was fitted from the top down this wouldn’t happen. Nearly all control arms have the bolts fitted from top to bottom in the event the nut works itself loose the bolt won’t drop out.
@@elderoo8483 The lower control arms only have 2 vertical screws, and they come from bottom to top, because the built-in thread is in the topside.
I have the same problem... Wondering if it might be the lower control arm bushings.... ???
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
There is a Mazda TSB to replace the lower control arm bushings. I'm having the same problem as everyone one else here. My mechanic says everything is safe. Next I'm replacing the sway bar and control bar bushings.
Was it your bushings? I have the same problem on my 2007 ms3 front and back clunking noise over bumps? Replaced front end links & rear sway bar bushing / brackets still the noise persists?
I don't think so. I replaced the bushings and the clunking remained. I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
hello. how did you remove sway bar bushing because i beleive you have to take the subframe first cus its a tight spot?
Go in from beind blind u can feel them
how did you solve the problem
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
appearances arent evrything, those bushings will prob solve ur problem. the factory bushings go bad quickly
Did u try the motor & transmission mounts?
It's the lower control arm
You may be right. I replaced both control arms and the noises did lessen quite a bit. In fact, it's quite pleasant now.
I know there is a Mazda TSB to replace the lower control arm bushings. I've been going crazy with my mechanic to figure the same problem out.
I think that’s exactly what’s happening with mine
I had a fuck ton of noise, when i would hit bumps or turn hard and it was the rear end links failing,
Controler arm is the culprit 99%
What about the cv joint?
Change the car will certainly resolve this crasy problem!
I had thd same problem. I replaced the joint bolt and sound is gone.
What is a "joint bolt"?
Hi guys.. any ideas on a fix as yet..
My Mazda 3 MPS is driving me insane.. I had thi issue about a year ago and I replaced the sway bar link and problem was fixed.. now it start again after 12 months.. I replaced the strut and sway bar links and still with the same klunkingggg sound... any ideas.
My problem was the control arm rear bushing.
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
2011 Mazda speed3 same problem. About about to try an chase down myself
Mine makes some noise over bumps
Same bro. Or hard turns
Have had a noise from front side for years on 2008 3. Mechanic I trust took a good listen over bumpy road. He eventually did a thorough inspection and narrowed it down to subframe bushings. Sadly you can't get OEM bushings and one aftermarket company is the only option.
I'm driving Mazda3 2012 having the same problem. Knocking happens only when I hit the speed bump with steering turned to one side. I had changed strut mount, all 3 engine/trans mount, lower arm, control link, sway bar bush. Problem still.
unbolt the tie rod end and see if you have loose. Maybe loose inner tie-rod or bad rack/pignon.
Did you try replacing the wheel bearing?
I am also having a noise like that. What fixed it?
I wasn't able to totally fix the clunking noises, but...I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I also sprayed all of the damper rods and suspension articulation points with Total Cycle S100 corrosion protectant aerosol. That seemed to help as well. I have no idea why. Ugh. I wish I had a definitive answer. Perhaps replacement of the upper engine mount would work? I know those go bad after a few yrs.
I got rhe same sound help me plzzzz
vertical video seems bizare
shoot wide-side to side! (Americas Funniest home videos ending line)
How did u get them off? Drop subframe?
I was wondering same thing
They're accessible with the wheel off and if you gimp your hands and go via the track rod. I've heard/seen you can do them over the back of the subframe too.
Cv axle
www.protegefaq.net/tsb/mt000004948.html
Try this tsb, the noise from under the front windshield cowl can sound like suspension noise
Graham Whel
Balljoints
Was it the bushes because i think its the bushes
I replaced the lower front control arms and that appears to have solved the clunking noises. Whether that is THE solution, I can't say. But it definitely helped.
was this resolved??? same problem with me
I wasn't able to fix the clunking noises, but...I had the lower control arms on my front suspension replaced. I didn't think that would actually solve anything, but for some reason, after a month or two of driving, the clunking quieted down. Whether that's the solution to quieting the front suspension is a mystery to me. But for now, the car is quiet. Strange. I also sprayed all of the damper rods and suspension articulation points with Total Cycle S100 corrosion protectant aerosol. That seemed to help as well. I have no idea why. Ugh. I wish I had a definitive answer. Perhaps replacement of the upper engine mount would work? I know those go bad after a few yrs.
@@10slover62 Actually this week im going to be replacing my lower control arm with a MEVOTECH brand, The dealerships said there was no problem but im hearing creaking going over bumps. hopefully it is the bearing on the control arm
Try to spray wd40 at lower control arm bushing, work for some owner of mazda.
I have a 2008 mazda 3 I change almost all of the suspension parts and the noise still there I took it to the shop they sed the motor mounts so I did it the noise still there my last pice to change sway bar bushings Im going crazy this problem lol please help!!.
I'm having the same problem..
The noise could be from your rack and pinion going bad. I have the same clunking noise in my 2009 mazda 3. Was told by a mechanic a year ago the rack and pinion was seeping. The clunk could be a drying out rack and pinion.