Model Making Techniques #1: Removing Parts & Glueing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2020
- In this video some of the techniques you can use to remove plastic parts from the sprue without damaging them are demonstrated and discussed. Then various glueing and application methods and how to clamp parts to ensure a solid bond. Fully narrated with extensive use of time-lapse and split screens.
Music: bensound.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I've gotten an immense amount of value out of this video, and just wanted to say thank you! I would never have thought of using a cable tie!
That was 👍🏼! That was all stuff I never knew. I haven’t built a model sense since the 80’s. I don’t even know where to get models & tools! lol
These videos sure save me time and frustrations. KUDOS TO YOU!!!
I've been watching your videos and they are by far the best I've seen. For a beginner modeler they are IMO invaluable. I've learned much, TY!
Thanks for the kind words, I hope to expand into other topics more as well as doing a lot of build vlogs :)
wow, never thought of using zip ties on the curved sections...excellent idea
yeah i just saw this and thought the same
Ditto here
FANTASTIC Tutorial! I am about to engage in a new project that requires a lot of precision and have been searching for a tutorial that would cover most of the possible scenarios. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise, it has given me much confidence to proceed without hesitation and be able to enjoy the process in a joyful expectation that the end result will be more than satisfactory.
With Gratitude and Appreciation for the Work you do🙏 THANK YOU!
Very informative. Thank you 👍
Really useful tips. Thanks!
Good information throughout but - Cable clamps !! Great tip - thank you!
The "building parts you won't see" thing is a big issue with some kits. I'm working on Trumpeter's P-38L-5-LO and both the left and right engines are incredibly detailed with many small parts and intricate rubber hose pieces that were a nightmare to glue in. Then I put the halves together and saw a lot of it was covered. No big deal. But by the time you get the booms attached to the main cockpit fuselage, you see just the very back of the top of the engines and through two small porthole windows on the inside of each boom. I spent a total of two days on each engine, cutting, sanding, fitting, priming, then painting each engine in stages to make sure I had everything perfectly glue and painted from the deepest recesses out. I was hoping there was an option for an 'open engine' or at least a conversion kit I could buy and not have to resort to the good old hobby saw.
Awesome series of technique videos, and thank god something from Aus...was nice to see.
Will make my way through all your videos as I'm getting back into modelling after many years absent, and really looking forward to it...again.
Cheers from western Sydney!!!!
Thanks for the support :D there will be a lot coming in future....and a lot of RAAF subjects that are currently on the bench/filming
Great information, thank you
I know this video is about a year old at this point, but suggestion for you. Instead of using clamps to squeeze parts together and get them out of shape if there is a big gap, you should try using some sheet styrene strips or even some sprue as a shim to fill the gap and glue that in place. lots of other great tips in here.
Love your video will help a lot once I start my f86 soon
Good tutorial for beginner modeller like me!
Great video 👍
Just from experience, the regular tamiya cement (orange or white capped bottles) are better to use for joining parts that have large surface areas as oppose to using the tamiya extra thin cement (green capped). And then use the extra thin cement for small part/pieces.
Yeah all his extra thin evaporated off before he even stick both parts together lol how does he not realize that
@@binal-flecki2387it still works. At that point the plastic itself has melted some so the plastic acts as the glue…. But yes the orange is better for things like that unless you want a soft bond.
WOW! That my modelling pier is something! Attention to detail beyond anything I had considered!
I am a returnee after some 45 years and man have things changed, so much so that I feel like a newbie.
I am not sure I can/will/want to worry that much? But should I? At 12 or so certainly not but at 63 or so maybe I should demand more of myself? Also when watching such as this I think “…..oh don’t bother at at all……..” there are after all many other hobbies I gave up that I could return to.
So…………?
Tell me please, what got you to where you are now?
Bob
England
Ty for this 😀
I need a technique to drill a centred hole in a < 1mm piece of plastic rod to simulate a gun barrel?
I like to play with model too.
what glue do u use?
Cement glue
Wouldn't it make so much more sense if the model pieces came already separated with no plastic joints to chisel off?
Risk of breaking and hard to find, and the spruce is part of the mold, much more expensive to produce without the sprue
Ok rule one never cut towards yourself, safety is number 1 😂
Loads of good tips, but I disagree with the technique and rationale at :50s Been doing this a long, long long time and from an era when the only special modelling tools most modellers had was mum's nail file and an eXacto knife with a single #11 blade. Your suggested technique makes for a lot of unnecessary extra work, AND won't guarantee any cleaner a cut, nor will mine (single cut & cut close) necessarily result in damage. There are exceptions. i.e. A. the kit plastic is exceptionally hard & brittle (Zvezda green used in their Soviet WWII armour) or B. so super soft it squashes like plasticine (Airfix recycled in their anything Made in India kits).
The technique keys for a single cut and minimum cleanup on regular quality kits from the likes of Tamiya, Hasegawa, Dragon, Eduard et al are; 1. use a quality pair of reputable brand nippers, Tamiya, Xuron, Mr.Hobby with 2. a very sharp cutting edge, and 3. use the correct (flat) side of the cutting blades close against the part at the correct angle for the part, 4. in good light where you can see properly, and 5. take care in cutting the part away. That way a very clean separation, minimal attention with a knife if even necessary, and a similiar light swipe with a sanding file if at all.
Glue. 1.Use a quality brand. 2. Have a variety of glues so you can use the right glue for the part. 3. Less is more. Plastic model parts aren't load bearing. 4. Use brushable capilliary action glues anywhere you can -caveat, if appropriate. e.g. Tamiya Extra Thin, Mr.Hobby Mr Cement S. For pre-application on larger parts, wings etc use regular Tamiya Cement, Mr Hobby Mr Cement both brushables, or Revell Contacta with its accurate tip applicator.
Haven't tried cable ties. Back in the old days, we used rubber bands. These days I prefer to use I prefer to use masking tape. Quality painters tape in its varying sizes is good to save on Tamiya, and stronger. Scotch, 3M, Bear. The real key is to buy quality kits with crisp accurately tooled moulds, dry fit and cut/file if at all necessary until the prerequisite fit.
For ref. I predominantly built 1/48, 1/32 air and 1/35 armour.
Building* not making! 😊