Timely - I'm getting back into modeling after a 40 year absence and I picked up a bottle of this along with a few kits last weekend. Glad I stumbled across this before I start back up!
Hi Spencer. Thanks for the tips. One question: You keep saying "tap the brush" to the joint, but often you are painting it on (ie making a stroke down the joint). To me, tap means a single spot. Is there an issue with painting or stroking the brush vs tapping?
He hasnt answered but i’ll try I look like a monkey when i see glue or wash go through lines with capillary So, THIS liquid glue does same thing, flows through therefore you can just tap I can only assume that he may have done that because the space between the molds, uneven surfaces exist and it doesnt flow therefore need of nudging the glue a little OR out of habit just like me lol
I would have to disagree somewhat with cutting the spurs as close to the part as possible. I'd rather leave a little nub I know i can file down, than cut too much and accidentally notch the component.
Agreed! Been building models for over 30 years... and this is the #1 bad thing to do on a kit. It is always better to file down the nub, than to have to use filler later.
I agree. Learned that the hard way, its very difficult to remove the remains if you cut too close, which means there will be a lot of filling to do. Still a great video
Point Alpha Models not if you use a perfectly sharp tool with perfectly aligned cutting edges.I choose them personally and I guarantee you that,even if I tend to leave a tiny bit of a protrusion myself to avoid unsightly micro-holes in case of a injecting process-related issue,these side cutters would give you a perfectly clean cut! Happy Modelling
Sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
Warning. Some liquid cement works well with this method but NOT all. Tamiya Extra Thin Is great for this, but do not attempt it with Tamiya Regular cement or thicker cement from other manufacturers. The cement can and will damage areas where it sits because it is not as volatile and doesn't evaporate quickly. You have been warned.
Hello Sir, I really enjoyed your video on the How-to Series on liquid glue. I would like to know if you are going to be doing any detailed step-by-step with instructions and explaining how you built that part in the very near future. You see I'm a beginner in the world of plastic modelling with no experience none what so ever. The reason I asked this question is because by you doing any detailed step-by-step with instructions I would rather hear you explane how you did your detail work. Thank You for taking the time to read my questions and comments. Sincerely Allan
If i have already painted and clearcoated, will this method make the paint run? On my first kit, I put the glue on the part and then placed it on the paint and my hands werent steady enough so it burned thru and smudged the paint job. thanks in advance
thank you for posting this! i recently got into gunpla building and had broken a piece and was so saddened by it breaking, but didn't want to stop building the whole set or turn it into a kitbash so i bought the same hobby glue used in the video and used it on the piece that was broken. looks like it turned out well so i'm just gonna let it dry for a few hours and hope the piece holds together until i complete the build.
Good to watch.And great to see you've thought of the kids, beginner modelers and those basics from your previous vids.When I was a kid, (when i look back on it, cough, cough) sticky glue was half the fun. I don't think they had liquid glues when i was a kid.I remember reading to use a cocktail stick to put glue on from a tube, and that put a stop to that. Aaaargh the good old days.LOL. Thanks for the vid.
Mr. Thin Cement evaporates on contact...join the pieces...slide the cement over the seam and the capillary action seals the plastic together...the Tamiya Extra thin does virtually the same and is more available in stores...Hobby Lobby sells it and it is well worth the 5 bucks for a bottle...it also lasts quite a while just be sure to close the bottle after each application and both have great applicator mini brushes
I'm using Testors cement, very thin, almost like water, and all I get is a blob. It doesn't seep in to the joint which is as tight as I can get it of course, and so there's no capillary action. I don't want to glue up a loose joint, do I? No. I can see it's working for you, but it doesn't work for me.
Superb! Thanks for these hints! I (am a total beginner) was doing it wrong - indeed, first 'brushing' halves and then trying to glue them, and surprised in the end it's not working :D
Thank you this video truly helped me! I was afraid to use that glue or bother with plastic parts because wasn't clear on the best way to apply that glue! Thanks again!
... if you are a hard-core modeller you can save a lot of money, when you brew your glue DIY ... you just have to order 1 Liter of Butylacetat at your next pharmacy and 1 Liter of Aceton ... mix them together 1:1 and you've got enough glue for the next years. That brew works similar than Tamiya Extrathin ... smells the same and you could re-activate your dried out putty, to give them a second life. That's all together for about 20 Euro or a liitle less in US Dollars !!
Are there any toxic fumes from the paint you were using there? I am trying to get a liquid glue for a Styrene 63 Corvette Sting Ray model that I received from Amazon a few days ago. I would like to be able to order some glue that does not have any noxious fumes.
I have trouble with applying small parts to the sides of ships. I mean parts smaller than your pinky nail. I have a hard time holding it with a pliers. Any ideas?
Me pollard, question after watching your video I noticed that the wing had a small section of the wing had some separation. Should you use filler and sand it the paint or how would you handle it? Sorry noob questions.TIA
I just got some of this (my old bottle of Testors ran out) and I do like the smaller brush. Only issue I have is liquid glues like this really only work well on model with good joins. GW Hexwraiths...pain in the butt.
Thanks for this video - BIG HELP - I just was in the middle of a advanced model rocket and there were molded plastic parts that called for this glue. I had forgotten the proper way to use it. It's been decades since I built with that type of glue. Thanks again mate!!!!
Great video I grew up using Tube glue and iv only used Tama liquid cement for about the last ten years and it did take me quite a while to learn the best way to use it
You're not supposed to smoke it, dude. Use it to cement your plastic parts together. You wouldn't have made it growing up in the 1960's, when model glue sniffing was a national pastime right behind baseball, apple pie, and Chevrolet. 😋👍
IMHO, liquid cement is much quicker. easier, and cleaner to use than the old thick tube glues. Any of the following thin liquid cements should work out well for you: 1. Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement 2. TENAX-7R Liquid Cement 3. Plastruct Plastic Weld Liquid Cement 4. Same-Stuff Liquid Cement (from Micro-Mark) 5. Testors Liquid Cement I've tried all of these with great success.
I just bought this Tamiya Extra Thin cement. i hope my AH-60L DAP comes out nice.will this cement work,because i just tried to glue this peace of plastic together and it didnt glue at all ..??
If you don't put the pieces together then apply the cement, then it's possible the cement is evaporating before you can get them together. However, I have run into some manufacturers plastic formulas that don't accept this product. It won't work on PE or Resin for example. You will have to use super glue or epoxy instead.
G'day Spencer, I've recently subscribed and I'm working my way through your excellent videos. I've just seen another TH-cam modeller advising people to use the ordinary Tamiya cement and stressing that one needs to put as much glue onto the seam of two pieces as possible. He then went on to spend a great deal of the video showing us, in fast motion, his 'endless' sanding off of the excess glue on the part using a rough, low grit sandpaper. He had a bottle of Extra Fine Cement there on his bench but seemed to think that the brush on the Extra Fine bottle was too small or, "fine", as he said, so he didn't get enough glue onto the two halves of the piece. The title of his video was 'Seam Removal' well, he certainly achieved that goal as he removed a large amount of plastic with his aggressive sanding. The surface was, and would be, a nightmare to lay down, say, any kind of metallic paint. But then again he was a 'gundam' modeller. I actually have no idea what a gundam is. Whatever, he was totally on the wrong track in relation to using cement. I certainly hope he gets to see your excellent video. It's a bit of a worry that there are folk out there making videos that show people exactly what not to do. Cheers, BH
Thanks for sharing that Spencer, could you please tell me where you acquired your side cutter from? I think the angled cut will really help me. And please can we have more how to videos. i.e. seam sanding, filling etc. loving your channel. Cheers Mark
Was that liquid glue you used cement glue? I’ve been using the stuff in the red tube to build my models with but when the glue comes out it gets these fibers that look like spider web coming out of the cup I put it into and makes it hard to glue my models but that stuff looks easier to use if it is liquid cement glue e what’s it called and dose it work on all model kits ?
IMHO, liquid cement is much quicker. easier, and cleaner to use than the old thick tube glues. Any of the following liquid cements should work out for you: 1. Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement 2. TENAX-7R Liquid Cement 3. Plastruct Plastic Weld Liquid Cement 4. Same-Stuff Liquid Cement (from Micro-Mark) 5. Testors Liquid Cement I've tried all of these with great success.
The liquid cement is about as strong a solvent you could wish for cleaning the brush. The worst thing that happens is that you will slowly contaminate the remaining cement in the bottle. I have not found that to be a problem as far as the effectiveness of the cement. The last little dregs seem to work just about as well as the first dab out of a fresh bottle.
Timely - I'm getting back into modeling after a 40 year absence and I picked up a bottle of this along with a few kits last weekend. Glad I stumbled across this before I start back up!
You recently retired ?
Me, too!
I must have picked the wrong day to quit sniffing glue.
Hi Spencer. Thanks for the tips. One question: You keep saying "tap the brush" to the joint, but often you are painting it on (ie making a stroke down the joint). To me, tap means a single spot. Is there an issue with painting or stroking the brush vs tapping?
He hasnt answered but i’ll try
I look like a monkey when i see glue or wash go through lines with capillary
So, THIS liquid glue does same thing, flows through therefore you can just tap
I can only assume that he may have done that because the space between the molds, uneven surfaces exist and it doesnt flow therefore need of nudging the glue a little
OR out of habit just like me lol
@@nazgul_53 thanks for your response.
Another word to beginners: If you use a paintbrush as Spencer suggested, clean it out in enamel thinner or spirits, or you can kiss the brush goodbye.
That was my question. Thanks for the answer.
I would have to disagree somewhat with cutting the spurs as close to the part as possible. I'd rather leave a little nub I know i can file down, than cut too much and accidentally notch the component.
Agreed! Been building models for over 30 years... and this is the #1 bad thing to do on a kit. It is always better to file down the nub, than to have to use filler later.
I agree. Learned that the hard way, its very difficult to remove the remains if you cut too close, which means there will be a lot of filling to do. Still a great video
Point Alpha Models not if you use a perfectly sharp tool with perfectly aligned cutting edges.I choose them personally and I guarantee you that,even if I tend to leave a tiny bit of a protrusion myself to avoid unsightly micro-holes in case of a injecting process-related issue,these side cutters would give you a perfectly clean cut!
Happy Modelling
Sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Trenton Dylan Instablaster =)
Thank you for making this... I’m just learning how to make model ships, and it’s really hard to find resources on basic things like this
when doing models do it the way it works for you.
Warning. Some liquid cement works well with this method but NOT all. Tamiya Extra Thin Is great for this, but do not attempt it with Tamiya Regular cement or thicker cement from other manufacturers. The cement can and will damage areas where it sits because it is not as volatile and doesn't evaporate quickly. You have been warned.
Hello Sir,
I really enjoyed your video on the How-to Series on liquid glue. I would like to know if you are going to be doing any detailed step-by-step with instructions and explaining how you built that part in the very near future. You see I'm a beginner in the world of plastic modelling with no experience none what so ever.
The reason I asked this question is because by you doing any detailed step-by-step with instructions I would rather hear you explane how you did your detail work.
Thank You for taking the time to read my questions and comments. Sincerely
Allan
Thank you, for this video, I was so confused while assembling my new model kit, until I watched this video!
U still painted it, a habit hard to break
Just picked this stuff up today after getting back into model building after decades thanks for the tips
Are u using a mask when using the cement glue? or is enough with being in a ventilated area?
If i have already painted and clearcoated, will this method make the paint run? On my first kit, I put the glue on the part and then placed it on the paint and my hands werent steady enough so it burned thru and smudged the paint job. thanks in advance
thank you for posting this! i recently got into gunpla building and had broken a piece and was so saddened by it breaking, but didn't want to stop building the whole set or turn it into a kitbash so i bought the same hobby glue used in the video and used it on the piece that was broken. looks like it turned out well so i'm just gonna let it dry for a few hours and hope the piece holds together until i complete the build.
T8000 glue can also be used as its cheaper
Good to watch.And great to see you've thought of the kids, beginner modelers and those basics from your previous vids.When I was a kid, (when i look back on it, cough, cough) sticky glue was half the fun. I don't think they had liquid glues when i was a kid.I remember reading to use a cocktail stick to put glue on from a tube, and that put a stop to that. Aaaargh the good old days.LOL. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks! Picked up my very first model and items to paint/glue it today. Helpful for me. :)
I just bought this glue, not used it yet, so basically it 'melts' and 'fuses' the plastic together ? instead of glueing ?
@pencilpauli Ohhhhh. I watch Plasmo's videos and I didnt understand how his glue was working that fast without hardening in the bottle.
I enjoyed the video. Learned a great deal in 10 minutes. Thank you.
Tilt the parts let gravity help glue to flow away from moving parts that you dont want to glue
Mr. Thin Cement evaporates on contact...join the pieces...slide the cement over the seam and the capillary action seals the plastic together...the Tamiya Extra thin does virtually the same and is more available in stores...Hobby Lobby sells it and it is well worth the 5 bucks for a bottle...it also lasts quite a while just be sure to close the bottle after each application and both have great applicator mini brushes
Thanks for the vid. Nice looking A-4 on the shelf too! 👍
Ive had trouble getting it to glue properly. I use the same brand.
I'm using Testors cement, very thin, almost like water, and all I get is a blob. It doesn't seep in to the joint which is as tight as I can get it of course, and so there's no capillary action. I don't want to glue up a loose joint, do I? No. I can see it's working for you, but it doesn't work for me.
Thank you for this vid , it is very helpful. I will be trying my hand at using liquid glue soon!
Just bought two kits, all the glue, stands, paint, ... etc. Zero experience, $300. Thanks for this. Will try and see how it goes!
How did it go?
@@thunderbirdice not well. I made some very serious brush paint errors. It is a LOT harder than it looks.
@@woksrandomchannel just takes practice buddy. My first model compared to my second is night and day difference
Drive me nuts doing it this way, great video though.
How do you remove the glue that may dry on the surface?
Superb! Thanks for these hints! I (am a total beginner) was doing it wrong - indeed, first 'brushing' halves and then trying to glue them, and surprised in the end it's not working :D
Thank you this video truly helped me! I was afraid to use that glue or bother with plastic parts because wasn't clear on the best way to apply that glue! Thanks again!
Just glue the pin registers then use thin glue.
... if you are a hard-core modeller you can save a lot of money, when
you brew your glue DIY ... you just have to order 1 Liter of Butylacetat at your
next pharmacy and 1 Liter of Aceton ... mix them together 1:1 and you've
got enough glue for the next years. That brew works similar than Tamiya
Extrathin ... smells the same and you could re-activate your dried out
putty, to give them a second life. That's all together for about 20 Euro
or a liitle less in US Dollars !!
I’ve had such bad luck with model cement
Looks like an excellent technique. Will try it on my next kit. Cheers mate!
Are there any toxic fumes from the paint you were using there? I am trying to get a liquid glue for a Styrene 63 Corvette Sting Ray model that I received from Amazon a few days ago. I would like to be able to order some glue that does not have any noxious fumes.
I have trouble with applying small parts to the sides of ships. I mean parts smaller than your pinky nail. I have a hard time holding it with a pliers. Any ideas?
Fine-point tweezers should do the job. The cross-locking type is very useful
@@kkfoto I have shaky hands. And can be impatient. But thanks for the info..
Thank you. You have helped me so much. But since I'm late on learning this. What do you recommend on gettin glue off of things
great video! I picked up my old hobby after 35 years(!) and boy... I whish we had youtube back then!
Me pollard, question after watching your video I noticed that the wing had a small section of the wing had some separation. Should you use filler and sand it the paint or how would you handle it? Sorry noob questions.TIA
I was building a model of the Bismarck and I accidentally glued my asshole shut. Help!
I like to think of it as welding. Tack it up, then fill the gaps all pretty.
How do you prevent the brush from picking up paint and then discolouring the rest of the glue in the bottle?
i'm not a modeller, but i think some folk would say the pieces aren't melted, they're dissolved. i suppose that's a nitpick, lol.
I just got some of this (my old bottle of Testors ran out) and I do like the smaller brush. Only issue I have is liquid glues like this really only work well on model with good joins. GW Hexwraiths...pain in the butt.
Alberta map on the back
Thanks for this video - BIG HELP - I just was in the middle of a advanced model rocket and there were molded plastic parts that called for this glue. I had forgotten the proper way to use it. It's been decades since I built with that type of glue. Thanks again mate!!!!
Perché a me non incolla ?
Muchas gracias!
I put too much glue on a part, then i realised i put it in the wrong way. It froze now, how can i unfreeze it?
Great video I grew up using Tube glue and iv only used Tama liquid cement for about the last ten years and it did take me quite a while to learn the best way to use it
I just got this today because I heard liquid glue works great and I was so confused on what to do
I can’t see. Can you please bring the camera in very close.
How not to inhale the shit i got high from it and ALMOST burnt my fucking hause down
You're not supposed to smoke it, dude. Use it to cement your plastic parts together. You wouldn't have made it growing up in the 1960's, when model glue sniffing was a national pastime right behind baseball, apple pie, and Chevrolet. 😋👍
@@artvandelay0073 thanks
IMHO, liquid cement is much quicker. easier, and cleaner to use than the old thick tube glues. Any of the following thin liquid cements should work out well for you:
1. Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
2. TENAX-7R Liquid Cement
3. Plastruct Plastic Weld Liquid Cement
4. Same-Stuff Liquid Cement (from Micro-Mark)
5. Testors Liquid Cement
I've tried all of these with great success.
@@artvandelay0073 wich one is most effect ive for sniffing
@@shealton_3919 // None of them are too volatile. Stick to the good ol' Testors thick tube glue in the orange and white tube for sniffing.
😋👍
can you make a vid about making seamless intakes?
Can you use this type of glue if the parts are painted?
should parts be painted before being glued?
thanks for that , glad I found your video , Bill
At last, good information. Thank you.
Loving he 'show-'n-tell' How To. :-) More please! Thanks for posting. 👍👍
Made my life a lot easier cheers for this tip will try this on my next build
Great video ,thank you for your professionalism.
Thanks, now I know what for glue it is.
thanks alot love your vids iam just now getting back into itmodel building i started a kit had problems with fuselage but this solved it
lol drops brush anyways thanks 4 the vid
Me pareció muy bien esta lección.
I just bought this Tamiya Extra Thin cement. i hope my AH-60L DAP comes out nice.will this cement work,because i just tried to glue this peace of plastic together and it didnt glue at all
..??
If you don't put the pieces together then apply the cement, then it's possible the cement is evaporating before you can get them together. However, I have run into some manufacturers plastic formulas that don't accept this product. It won't work on PE or Resin for example. You will have to use super glue or epoxy instead.
@@johnmaddox7432 8
i learned something new today thanks
Thanks for sharing Spencer - always a pleasure to watch (and learn from) your videos Best wishes
That was really helpful. Thx!
how to clean excess glue?
Very interesting.thank you
Great video - thank you
Very good tips I sub you
Wonderfully explained : thanks 👏
Just what I needed!! Nicely done!
THANK YOU
Thanks for this tip, just seen it, very helpful..from south africa
Who the hell cares where you're from?
Excellent !
But mine does not stick what do I do
If plastic model check for large gaps between parts or that you have no paint/grease on the gluing surface. If resin model then use CA glue.
thank you!
Great video
G'day Spencer, I've recently subscribed and I'm working my way through your excellent videos. I've just seen another TH-cam modeller advising people to use the ordinary Tamiya cement and stressing that one needs to put as much glue onto the seam of two pieces as possible. He then went on to spend a great deal of the video showing us, in fast motion, his 'endless' sanding off of the excess glue on the part using a rough, low grit sandpaper. He had a bottle of Extra Fine Cement there on his bench but seemed to think that the brush on the Extra Fine bottle was too small or, "fine", as he said, so he didn't get enough glue onto the two halves of the piece. The title of his video was 'Seam Removal' well, he certainly achieved that goal as he removed a large amount of plastic with his aggressive sanding. The surface was, and would be, a nightmare to lay down, say, any kind of metallic paint. But then again he was a 'gundam' modeller. I actually have no idea what a gundam is. Whatever, he was totally on the wrong track in relation to using cement. I certainly hope he gets to see your excellent video. It's a bit of a worry that there are folk out there making videos that show people exactly what not to do.
Cheers, BH
Thanks for sharing that Spencer, could you please tell me where you acquired your side cutter from? I think the angled cut will really help me. And please can we have more how to videos. i.e. seam sanding, filling etc. loving your channel.
Cheers Mark
How is the odor of that cement ?
Some glues you need a gas-mask.
gas mask lol
Was that liquid glue you used cement glue? I’ve been using the stuff in the red tube to build my models with but when the glue comes out it gets these fibers that look like spider web coming out of the cup I put it into and makes it hard to glue my models but that stuff looks easier to use if it is liquid cement glue e what’s it called and dose it work on all model kits ?
IMHO, liquid cement is much quicker. easier, and cleaner to use than the old thick tube glues. Any of the following liquid cements should work out for you:
1. Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
2. TENAX-7R Liquid Cement
3. Plastruct Plastic Weld Liquid Cement
4. Same-Stuff Liquid Cement (from Micro-Mark)
5. Testors Liquid Cement
I've tried all of these with great success.
I’m having trouble getting glue to stick to painted parts.. what do I fo
should clean that brush frequently during the usage right?
You can do - I don't tend to bother unless I'm gluing together painted parts...
doesn't it ruin the brush?
Not especially - and I tend you use cheap brushes, so there's no harm done...
The liquid cement is about as strong a solvent you could wish for cleaning the brush. The worst thing that happens is that you will slowly contaminate the remaining cement in the bottle. I have not found that to be a problem as far as the effectiveness of the cement. The last little dregs seem to work just about as well as the first dab out of a fresh bottle.