I believe you should have used a 150 amp breaker to feed that sub panel because if that unit ever is used at max capacity its gonna trip that 100 amp breaker
The problem here is that the feeder from the 100 amp breaker to the sub panel is 2 #6. Depending on the insulation type and temp. rating of the wire, a #6 copper wire could be rated from 55 amp to 75 amp. The 100 amp breaker will not protect the #6 wire. The correct feeder size should be at least #2 copper wire.
According to the National Electrical Code (NEC) ampacity tables, the minimum wire size for a 100 Amp circuit is: 3 AWG Copper. That 8 AWG wire is severely undersized and may overheat; and as such is a fire hazard. I believe they misunderstood the directions. Each breaker requires an 8 AWG wire since they are 40 Amp breakers. If they were wiring the hot water heater directly from the main service panel, 8 AWG wire would have been appropriate. However, they are using a subpanel which means it must safely carry the entire load of all three breakers. The breaker for the subpanel is under-sized for the application. The water heater is rated for 120 Amps and is being supplied by a 100 Amp breaker. This is much less of an issue than the wire size but should also be addressed. I hope they reconsider their installation and upgrade the devices to spec.
Any idea how to "reset" this after a storm/power outage? I've tried turning off at breakers and leaving off for 10 minutes. No power to unit still. I don't see any reset button to push. I must be missing something?
Make sure there is power at the unit. I don’t know if you have a sub panel or not. If you do make sure the main breaker to the sub panel is not tripped.
I was just wondering if you could leave one of the heating elements unwired and this unit still work properly I don’t want to under size my house would rather over size and I thought I’d I went with the 36 and didn’t need it if I would just leave one breaker off if it would still work correctly if anyone could answer thanks
That’s a great question. I am not 100# certain but if you leave one leg off I think it would effect your performance. Like with a regular water heater that has 2 elements. If 1 goes out your water won’t get as hot and won’t last as long.
Each element in it is 9kw, so wiring up only 1 or up to all 4 elements you'd get 9, 18, 27, or 36kw of heating capacity. That would theoretically allow you to use only 2, 3, or all 4 heating elements in case you don't need all of them, but not need to uninstall and exchange for the bigger unit it if you in fact do.
Not sure about that brand but the Stiebel is "progressive" in that if there is a small demand, say a faucet, it only turns one the first element and if that is not enough to bring it to temp or with higher flow, it will turn on the 2nd and third. they don't all come one at the same time, that would be a waste.
@@tomassoyweyvon4902 yes but Experienced electricians like to play the budget game. Number 8 rated for 40 amps but I’ve worked with electrician doing 711 remodeled and they run number 8 over 100 ft for 50 amps So if you don’t have experience like that Id say stick to rated wire
Obviously u not a plumber u install this electric thankless without any safety u miss services valves and more important a safety relief. valve just in case system fail and cause a bad explosion 🥵
![🌟 Tankless Water Heater Installation. Rheem tankless water heater installed and tested [478]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/br7eqofKcZ4/mqdefault.jpg)
![🌟 Tankless Water Heater Installation. Rheem tankless water heater installed and tested [478]](/img/tr.png)
I recently installed the same unit and one thing I CAN offer is GO BIGGER THAN YOU THINK YOU NEED!
Great job on the video man. Only one i found that showed me if i wired the breakers right 😂
Glad I could help!
You did wonderful job. Very clean and nicely done.
Much appreciated! 👍
I believe you should have used a 150 amp breaker to feed that sub panel because if that unit ever is used at max capacity its gonna trip that 100 amp breaker
Yeah it can go to 112.5 amp but popping that is still safe, it just might be frustrating
You're running 120 amps of capacity in the sub panel off of a 100 amp breaker in the main panel????
The problem here is that the feeder from the 100 amp breaker to the sub panel is 2 #6. Depending on the insulation type and temp. rating of the wire, a #6 copper wire could be rated from 55 amp to 75 amp. The 100 amp breaker will not protect the #6 wire. The correct feeder size should be at least #2 copper wire.
According to the National Electrical Code (NEC) ampacity tables, the minimum wire size for a 100 Amp circuit is:
3 AWG Copper. That 8 AWG wire is severely undersized and may overheat; and as such is a fire hazard.
I believe they misunderstood the directions. Each breaker requires an 8 AWG wire since they are 40 Amp breakers. If they were wiring the hot water heater directly from the main service panel, 8 AWG wire would have been appropriate. However, they are using a subpanel which means it must safely carry the entire load of all three breakers.
The breaker for the subpanel is under-sized for the application. The water heater is rated for 120 Amps and is being supplied by a 100 Amp breaker. This is much less of an issue than the wire size but should also be addressed.
I hope they reconsider their installation and upgrade the devices to spec.
The MC is smart as hell / I had to grab a dictionary
Any idea how to "reset" this after a storm/power outage? I've tried turning off at breakers and leaving off for 10 minutes. No power to unit still. I don't see any reset button to push. I must be missing something?
Make sure there is power at the unit. I don’t know if you have a sub panel or not. If you do make sure the main breaker to the sub panel is not tripped.
@@alittlebitofeverythinghome4333 thanks- it was the fuse.
I was just wondering if you could leave one of the heating elements unwired and this unit still work properly I don’t want to under size my house would rather over size and I thought I’d I went with the 36 and didn’t need it if I would just leave one breaker off if it would still work correctly if anyone could answer thanks
That’s a great question. I am not 100# certain but if you leave one leg off I think it would effect your performance. Like with a regular water heater that has 2 elements. If 1 goes out your water won’t get as hot and won’t last as long.
Each element in it is 9kw, so wiring up only 1 or up to all 4 elements you'd get 9, 18, 27, or 36kw of heating capacity. That would theoretically allow you to use only 2, 3, or all 4 heating elements in case you don't need all of them, but not need to uninstall and exchange for the bigger unit it if you in fact do.
Not sure about that brand but the Stiebel is "progressive" in that if there is a small demand, say a faucet, it only turns one the first element and if that is not enough to bring it to temp or with higher flow, it will turn on the 2nd and third. they don't all come one at the same time, that would be a waste.
Man the amount of power and amps that thing needs in insanity!!!
I agree I would recommend gas if possible.
@@alittlebitofeverythinghome4333 I agree. I wired 2 of the gas ones for a customer and all they required was a dedicated 20 amp
Why are these boxes recessed? they should be flush to the drywall..
How much do do they charge for install of tankless water heater
It depends on the company that’s hard to say. I would get an estimate ate from at least 3 different companies.
That's a 26kw water heater. That's 13kw per leg. That's 2/3 the power of the whole house of that's even a 200 amp service.
👍
No pressure relief valve
A 6-2 with 100 amps breaker ????
Hey Joel, Shouldn't it be Minimum #4 CU
@@tomassoyweyvon4902 yes but Experienced electricians like to play the budget game. Number 8 rated for 40 amps but I’ve worked with electrician doing 711 remodeled and they run number 8 over 100 ft for 50 amps So if you don’t have experience like that Id say stick to rated wire
Crazy what goes on Tomas is 💯 correct
@@waynesmith8827 Experience?!?...sounds like a Lick and and Prayer and hope
Obviously u not a plumber u install this electric thankless without any safety u miss services valves and more important a safety relief. valve just in case system fail and cause a bad explosion 🥵
Tankless don't hold pressure above line pressure.
@@OneLeggedTarantula PRV is required even on a tankless.
@@teejay622what if tank don't have the prv connection?