This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Tried installing a Eco11 and it;s leaking out of both input and output pipes. Not leaking on the additional connectors I added to interface the hoses but leaking from the joint between the factory silver colored body connector and the body itself. These are the connectors that come with the unit already installed on the body. Ii see pictures of another 11 and it has big metal washers there one on each side right where mine is leaking. My brand new form Amazon ECO11 unit did not come with any washers. Box was factory sealed...
It has a "warranty void if removed" decal over the screws that you must remove in order to wire it. Am I really voiding the warranty by installing this? dumb
i peeled the sticker off with rubbing alcohol and reinstalled it after i installed my heater. It's still voided im sure but if i have to send it back there won't be any damage to the sticker and im betting they won't notice.
You cannot just run exposed individual conductors through the wall of the unit. They must be protected in some sort of conduit. Read your electrical code!
that is correct. you can run the wire through gray electrical PVC pipe (if allowed by code), and people need to make sure they use the right size. 3/4" will work for UP TO 6 #8 wires. so if you are going to go up to the model requiring 3, 40-amp breakers, they will need to use 1" condit (because the ground wire would be the 7th conductor and that takes it out of using 3/4" conduit)
Thank you for the inquiry. As long as Singapore is 240 volt single phase in a 'hot-to-hot' configuration, that is, 2 hot leads then you will be ok. If, however, the voltage is in a 'hot-to-neutral' configuration where there is only ONE hot conductor, than no, our product will not work with that configuration. How to tell the difference? Look in your circuit breaker panel. If each circuit has a DOUBLE-POLE circuit breaker that requires 2 slots in the panel, then your configuration is approved. If your 240 volt circuits only use a SINGLE-POLE breaker requiring just 1 slot in the panel, then no, the configuration is NOT approved.
Here is a question i can't seem to find an answer for: My current water heater is a 50 gallon electric TANK model. believe it or not, it is an A.O. Smith and is 26 years old - a house original - so i can't complain that it has lasted a long time (I've only owned the house for 4 of these 26 years). well it is now failing and i am going to replace it with a tankless. seems to make sense. the situation: the current water heater has a re-circulation pump off the hot outlet side with a dedicated return line (the return line going back into the cold water inlet of the WH, check-valve to keep it from going back into the cold supply line and water softener) so there is hot water at every faucet in the house within seconds. almost instantly. there are motion sensors which activate the pump for a minute or two so it is not always running. i believe there is even a sensor at the end of the return line (before it goes back into the cold inlet) to keep the pump from running if the water is already above 120 degrees (or shuts it off if that temperature is detected before the motion sensor would shut it off). without the pump, it would take almost 3 minutes for the water to get hot at the furthest fixture, and it cools off quickly once you shut the faucet off. makes it a pain in the butt for rinsing dishes in the kitchen - which is the furthest fixture. the question: how do you hook up any of these electric tankless water heaters WITH the circulation pump in the loop where it does not void the warranty? i have seen videos (for Rheem) that has this feature with a gas model, but not electric. Certainly there must be a way? i am not about to install 'booster tankless' heaters at the remote points because the circulation pump effectively does the same thing.
You should be able to accomplish your goals with our ECO MINI models. They are electrical mini tanks ranging from 1.5-6 gallons and could be used for those remote sink locations.
I'm planning to install the Eco 11 in my RV (it's stationary). I have two questions- 1- How do I wire it to plug into an regular house outlet? (instead of hard wired into a circuit breaker) Is there a kit I can buy at the hardware store that makes it a regular plug? 2- Do I need a pump? The water source is a regular spigot like everyone has in their yard, and runs on a well (with well pump)
Hi Jessica, I'm not sure if there is a way to turn it into a regular outlet but if there is it would be just as complicated, if not more so than how they are designed. It just needs pressure to function, so an ordinary spigot (or your rv pump) will work fine
No. You regular house outlet can provide 1.8 kw - less than 2 kilowatts. The model in this video requires 18 kw - 10 times as much as your regular outlet can provide.
My eco 27 has only one slot for the ground not three like all the pics . But mine also has 3 wires going from the ground to the back of each connection. Does anybody know anything about that?
Can I connect a hydroneumatic Dab device 1 hp, 7,5 bar, 80 l/m to the input of the ecosmart eco 36 unit and will heat properly the water at the output? Thanks.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Tried installing a Eco11 and it;s leaking out of both input and output pipes. Not leaking on the additional connectors I added to interface the hoses but leaking from the joint between the factory silver colored body connector and the body itself. These are the connectors that come with the unit already installed on the body. Ii see pictures of another 11 and it has big metal washers there one on each side right where mine is leaking. My brand new form Amazon ECO11 unit did not come with any washers. Box was factory sealed...
I have had two units with this problem. I wish ECO/Rheem would give us a response!
Just to verify…I only see 1 ground wire connected in this video.
So only 1 ground wire needs to be connected???
Is this a 3phase water heater or single phase
At 1:49 the video shows L2L2 and L1L1 (left to right), however, the sticker on my Eco 18 shows L2L1 and L2L1.
Why south inconsistency?!?!
thanks for omiting how to connect the ground wire.
What are electrical req for ECO 27
What type of water filter do you recommend adding to ECO27
You guys should make one with DC elements for solar /battery bank.
It's cheaper and more effective to preheat the water with direct solar panels than with photovoltaic panels
Use a pure sine wave inverter and 100ah lithium battery with your solar panels and you're golden.
Would this work well for 50Hz frequency in Europe?
It has a "warranty void if removed" decal over the screws that you must remove in order to wire it. Am I really voiding the warranty by installing this? dumb
i peeled the sticker off with rubbing alcohol and reinstalled it after i installed my heater.
It's still voided im sure but if i have to send it back there won't be any damage to the sticker and im betting they won't notice.
You cannot just run exposed individual conductors through the wall of the unit. They must be protected in some sort of conduit. Read your electrical code!
its just a video to show you how to do it.
that is correct. you can run the wire through gray electrical PVC pipe (if allowed by code), and people need to make sure they use the right size. 3/4" will work for UP TO 6 #8 wires. so if you are going to go up to the model requiring 3, 40-amp breakers, they will need to use 1" condit (because the ground wire would be the 7th conductor and that takes it out of using 3/4" conduit)
@@brandongochie4325 Sure, it's just a video to show you how to do it incorrectly.
@@brandongochie4325 showing us wrong
Can this be installed/wired to be used in Singapore? Singapore uses 240v , single phase.
Thank you for the inquiry. As long as Singapore is 240 volt single phase in a 'hot-to-hot' configuration, that is, 2 hot leads then you will be ok. If, however, the voltage is in a 'hot-to-neutral' configuration where there is only ONE hot conductor, than no, our product will not work with that configuration. How to tell the difference? Look in your circuit breaker panel. If each circuit has a DOUBLE-POLE circuit breaker that requires 2 slots in the panel, then your configuration is approved. If your 240 volt circuits only use a SINGLE-POLE breaker requiring just 1 slot in the panel, then no, the configuration is NOT approved.
@@ecosmartus Thanks for the reply. Singapore uses hot-to-neutral configuration. I guess I can throw away the heater then?
Can you install this in a camp trailer?
Here is a question i can't seem to find an answer for: My current water heater is a 50 gallon electric TANK model. believe it or not, it is an A.O. Smith and is 26 years old - a house original - so i can't complain that it has lasted a long time (I've only owned the house for 4 of these 26 years). well it is now failing and i am going to replace it with a tankless. seems to make sense.
the situation: the current water heater has a re-circulation pump off the hot outlet side with a dedicated return line (the return line going back into the cold water inlet of the WH, check-valve to keep it from going back into the cold supply line and water softener) so there is hot water at every faucet in the house within seconds. almost instantly. there are motion sensors which activate the pump for a minute or two so it is not always running.
i believe there is even a sensor at the end of the return line (before it goes back into the cold inlet) to keep the pump from running if the water is already above 120 degrees (or shuts it off if that temperature is detected before the motion sensor would shut it off). without the pump, it would take almost 3 minutes for the water to get hot at the furthest fixture, and it cools off quickly once you shut the faucet off. makes it a pain in the butt for rinsing dishes in the kitchen - which is the furthest fixture.
the question: how do you hook up any of these electric tankless water heaters WITH the circulation pump in the loop where it does not void the warranty? i have seen videos (for Rheem) that has this feature with a gas model, but not electric. Certainly there must be a way? i am not about to install 'booster tankless' heaters at the remote points because the circulation pump effectively does the same thing.
You should be able to accomplish your goals with our ECO MINI models. They are electrical mini tanks ranging from 1.5-6 gallons and could be used for those remote sink locations.
Where can I hang ECOSmart? Can I put it on outside or on the attic? My family is four people, which model should I need to buy?
Thanks
Outside is not recommended but the attic is fine.
I'm planning to install the Eco 11 in my RV (it's stationary). I have two questions-
1- How do I wire it to plug into an regular house outlet? (instead of hard wired into a circuit breaker) Is there a kit I can buy at the hardware store that makes it a regular plug?
2- Do I need a pump? The water source is a regular spigot like everyone has in their yard, and runs on a well (with well pump)
Hi Jessica, I'm not sure if there is a way to turn it into a regular outlet but if there is it would be just as complicated, if not more so than how they are designed.
It just needs pressure to function, so an ordinary spigot (or your rv pump) will work fine
No. You regular house outlet can provide 1.8 kw - less than 2 kilowatts. The model in this video requires 18 kw - 10 times as much as your regular outlet can provide.
You can wire it to a plug, but the receptacle it plugs into has to be on a 60 amp double pole breaker.
#Vanlife
My eco 27 has only one slot for the ground not three like all the pics . But mine also has 3 wires going from the ground to the back of each connection. Does anybody know anything about that?
Does it only work with split phase? Does it work with single phase with a hot and neutral instead of two hot lines?
Split phase only
Water in my rv is barely warm. I can't even shower. Does anyone know if its the heater or something else?
Can I connect a hydroneumatic Dab device 1 hp, 7,5 bar, 80 l/m to the input of the ecosmart eco 36 unit and will heat properly the water at the output? Thanks.
What size are the spanners?
It was working tried every thing to get it back on as instructed. Im still getting cold water
Did you figure it out?
Tech support doesn't work weekends.
Grounds aren't connected in video and copper shouldn't be visible at the screw terminals..inspection would probably fail
Where would one connect the ground?
yes, poor example video.
Exactamente que temperatura debo tener a la salida del calentador, ya que sube muy poco, tengo 17 grados en el agua y 19 a la salida
Hola dice L1 L2 como van las lineas vivas 120 en L1 y 120 L2
O puedo puentear la línea 1 con la 2
Interesting
Hola una pregunta cómo se conecta la instalación eléctrica
Primeto necesitas tener espacio en tu caja de breakers eco 18 requiere 2 breakers dobles de 40 amps lleva cable del numero 8
Si no tienes suficienfe espacio necesitarias poner una caja de electricidad subpanel 100 amps
For fucks sake 2 -40 amp breakers. Holy crap
Double pulls and my lights still flickering hsrd
No hot water
ANGELSHALAM
Is this a 3phase water heater or single phase