Hey Tim. Thanks for the shout-out. I’d have chucked it back to Lidl as soon as I found that gunk all over the housing tbh. I do wonder about the QC from one year to the next; my Parkside saw is from last year, perhaps that makes a difference. For clarity, and anyone new to the tracksaw/plungesaw world, there’s usually a good ~8mm or so of rubber splinterguard exposed at the edge of a new guiderail that gets trimmed back on the first cut - better to make that cut against a surface, btw - and then acts as a reference for your cut line. The splinter guards are a consumable, so can be replaced, but you shouldn’t need to do that on a brand new rail. The one benefit of buying supermarket tools is they don’t quibble about returns or replacements - chuck it back to Lidl and move on. BTW dust collection can usually be improved by taping over the access hole in the blade cover - it can make a huge difference - but DC on these entry-level saws is ‘OK’ at best; you don’t get Festool levels of dust collection without spending Festool money, unfortunately. For anyone who remains ‘tracksaw curious’ I did a 7-part Tracksaw Workshop’ series earlier in the year. 👍👍
I bought a second hand Festool plunge saw. Worked perfectly out the box and now my fav tool for accuracy and reproducability. You can't do a plunge cut with a circular saw, and that was vital when i was installing my kitchen.
2 Years on UPDATE. I never bothered with a replacement and learnt my lesson, you get what you pay for. As it would be a tool that would be used regularly and for many years, I hunted down a great used Festool which has been an invaluable addition to the workshop for the past 2 years, it's spot on every time and doesn't give you that feeling of "I wish I had got the better one" every time you pick it up! UPDATE. Long story short, the saw works fine but quality control a huge let down. As I mentioned in the video, many people have had a good result from this saw, so appears I was unfortunate to get a dud. After more investigation and discussions with other owners it looks as if the splinter guard was incorrect in size and profile and the blade itself fitted in such a way that it was offset enough to miss splinterguard and nearly clip the casing of the saw. Due to being a one off product, unlikely to replace so probably refund and then look elsewhere for an alternative. Thanks for all the comments and advice. :-) We will be back woith another track saw one day, I am not put off!
@nasser d schappach is a different saw than the titan, its not compatible with standard festool tracks the Titan is the same saw as the Macallister both in B&Q and screwfix.....some deals around on them at the moment
My dewalt splinter guard had lots of material to cut off, but you have to make sure the cams on the track rollers are set right. I have a dewalt (14yo) which i have never had a problem with. This is what you get when you go too cheap.
Hi there. I had the same issue with the jammed nut on the blade. I did a bit of research and ended up drenching the area with wd40. 24 hours later I was able to loosen it.
Actually, after more investigation of my own, the convex guard has been there on the Lidl saw since the very first model (A1). I think the actual problem is the large distance between the aluminium track edge (not the rubber) and the blade. On a Festool there's about a blade-width distance between the blade and the aluminium edge of track (2.5-3mm let's say). On the Lidl saw there's a gap of about 5mm, which is a lot. Even with a better (non-convex) rubber strip, it will flex a lot more on the Lidl saw track. A real fix would be an entirely different track. The real question is: does anyone make track that fits the width of the Lidl saw plate properly, i.e. with a clearance of about 3mm...
Hi there! I bought myself a Festool one. It was at that time the cheapest namebrand tracksaw around. I payed 400€ for a kit with case, fine toothed sawblade and 1.40m track. Never regreted it. Especially the Festool blades are very cheap in comparison to others. I would recommend importing it from Germany and changing the plug in Britain. To be honest, I think your solution with the Bosch plus DIY track was totally fine. You still can put a rebate under that track to protect the edges with a lip. I use these lips several times. If they tear, i reglue it onto the track and trim it. Only when they get too slim, I replace it. If you order tracks, I can recommend Triton or Makita ones. They all differ slightly but are mostly suited for these saws. Cheaper ones tend to have such issues. And yes, dust extraction on saws is always bad. Even table saws seem to throw particles everywhere. Only Maffel seem to get it right on their handheld saws. But the prices... I hope that helps! Regards, Etna.
"Only Maffel seem to get it right on their handheld saws. But the prices.." Just bought the Maffel. Only £50 more than the Bosch, and Cheaper than the Festool.
Nice! Have fun with that. How much did you pay? I'm just curious. Foreign prices are so different. I've read the Festool is 1000$ in the US. That boggles my mind.
I feel your disappointment! :) Another vote for taking it back - I think you got a lemon as there shouldn't be any grease visible. I've had this Lidl saw for a year now and used it pretty much every day (van build!). For reference, the distance from the edge of the splinter guard to the raised part of the track is 122mm on mine after trimming (179mm overall). The actual splinter guard rubber is 19mm wide after trimming. I did change the blade to a 40T one, but even the blade that came with it is OK. I've found it gives a very nice, accurate cut, but above all, it's so quick! Change it if you can, or take it back.
Great video. I bought one of these for £30 on Facebook market place (2nd hand but unopened). Brilliant value and mine works fine and it fitted the track and trimmed the strip on first pass like it should. Also bought extra track direct from the manufacturer. At under £10 a length inc postage from Germany an even better bargain. My comments from using it... Cable is very stiff and not flexible unlike most other tools using a power cord. The red knobs used to adjust clearance in the track groove need tightening every time used. Only one connector used between track lengths rather than at two points so track can be easily missaligned. Checking track joins with a straight edge is essential. Assembled track lengths also tend to twist so the saw sometimes will not flow over the join. A little bit underpowered. Anything more than 18mm ply goes a bit slow. Finish is good even on the standard blade. Blade a bit slow to slow down when cut finished. Had a few kick backs but now I am aware, avoid moving it when stopping. I’d like to say it’s rubbish, but for the money it’s great. I even find myself reaching for it instead of using my high end and also very heavy mitre and table saws. I know what to would prefer to lug upstairs! If you come across one, get one. Otherwise save up for a branded one like the Festool. The concept of this tool is a time, space and back saver!
Never underestimate the usefulness of a failure, we learn more when it doesn’t go according to plan. I have often looked at the power tools in Aldi etc but they are always priced at a point where the risk isn’t worth it and this has reinforced my thought process. Most useful video I have seen of yours yet as it has saved me money and most importantly disappointment :-)
Just a quick line to both of you guys I watch your videos online and as a chippy I have to say both you guys do a great job and hope your both well through this pandemic
I bought one last week. Made a fine adjustment to the blade using the small grub screw to get it 90° and went on to cut the splinter guard. My rubber / plastic strips were a good 2-3mm long so cut through and and now they sit flush to the blade as they should so sounds like you got a dud. I may have been doing it wrong and it wasn’t in the manual but from what I could see but when cutting the splinter guards you can only do the start and end of the cut with only one of the tensioners in the rail which wouldn’t cut the guard exactly where the saw would be unless you’re very lucky and hold it really straight and get the 2nd tensioner in the rail without moving side to side. I got around this by joining the 2 rails together one way then swapping them around. Agree about the noisy motor (compared with my Bosch) but not tried out the dust extraction yet.
my (now ex) boyfriend bought me a festool track saw about 8 years ago - he got it cheap because a guy he used to work with started up a festool shop. i'm pretty strong, but i'm not Lou Ferrigno, so lifting a sheet of 3/4" anything onto my table saw and working it was a pain - farting around with rolling runoffs etc... to be fair, since then i built an 8x8 table with two tablesaws in opposite corners, so each has a great run off , so maybe not quite a useful as it was, but the festool was perfect for what i needed it for at the time - even just for ripping a 4x8' sheet in two, then cutting it at the table saw. not sure if festool is actually worth the money - lots of opinions on that - but mine was 'free', so worth every penny - but with the table, and a sled, i seldom use it anymore. but if you don't have a huge table, these track saws are awesome - and make everything much safer - at least for me.
After watching this I realise I’m not alone with the vacuum issue. Thanks for taking time to record it, now I won’t waste hours trying to get the dc to work and reluctantly send back the saw. I was excited, as you were for this item but like you found it’s not lived up to my expectations!
Its all a learning curve, I have a Dewalt Track saw and it is the best , most used tool I have. No dust, extremely accurate and powerful. In this scenario i think it is a case of you get what you pay for but it is the size of a bus and heavy as an electricians wallet.
@@edobrien_92 No Mine is the mains powered one, had it a while now before the battery one was available it is heavy and loud but as you say a preferred tool that I use all the time
Good to see a review which shows the potential issues. I am very surprised the blade bolt is not easily removed. I bought a track for regular circular saw about 18 years ago. The track works well to give me a straight and clean cut on sheet goods, which is the only time I use this. This has a sacrificial plastic edge to act as zero clearance and minimize splintering. I know how to pivot my circular saw if I need to plunge to start the cut. I do not feel a dedicated track saw would give me much improvement, perhaps only in dust collection. Not enough improvement for me to justify the tool. Also would not get used much in my shop. My circular saw has universal motor like the one you purchased, so it is loud. Dave.
100% that is a lemon. I have the titan, but you're right it is absolutely supposed to cut the rubber strip, and that strip is supposed to be in contact with the material you're cutting. Personally id return it and go to screwfix and get a titan, I think you'd be pleasantly surprised.... Or maybe your new contacts at B&Q could hook you up with one for a comparison! Don't give up 😉
100% tracksaw is a huge advantage. Admittedly I am a carpenter and I have a festool but it is so far ahead of any circular saw for finish and ease of use it
That looks and sounds a bit nasty. I researched these a fair bit. I got as good as I could economically get. I got the Makita SP6000 over a year ago now, I dunno how I managed without it. the features on it are superb. The tracks are a lot longer than the scrappy bits of track with the Parkside model. I have used mine on several occasions to simply shave a millimeter or two of door edges amongst lots of other jobs like breaking down 8' x 4' sheets of MDF OSB and plywood. It works a dream. If taking a cut with the full kerf of the blade, the dust extraction is stunning, even with just the dust bag and without hooking up the vac. there is also an option to run the length of your cut with a first pass a millimeter or so deep to stop blade chipping out the timber. The reviews I read said the Makita was only slightly behind Festool, which is really good but out of most peoples budget. I hunted for a deal where it included a couple of 1.5mtr guide rails. I love it. And you are right, the first use will trim the edge if the anti chip strip on a decent setup. Your tool looked really bad! I simply line the track up to pencil marks and cut, it's accuracy? it is within half a millimeter. I just had a quick scout about on the web, it may sound extremely steep to pay £380 for the FULL kit including clamps, track joining kit, carry bag for the 2 tracks you get etc. But this is so versatile and has a carry case for the saw too.
I checked out a Pattfield track saw (sold exclusively at Hornbach, a German big box chain). It's undoubtedly made by the same Chinese company as the Lidl saw. The track, although sold separately and 1.4m long, has exactly the same convex rubber strip as the Lidl saw. So that's probably no manufacturing error, but "by design". The Pattfield saw has some differences to the Lidl one, but its base is almost identical... except it actually makes use of the anti-tipping slot that is cut in the base of the Lidl saw as well. The Pattfield saw also comes with a (misaligned) riving knife and this reduces the blade to 160mm. Alas the knife looks held by a single screw so it would probably be hard to align. There are also some minor differences in the plastic molding between the Lidl and Pattfield saws (most notably the front handle of the Pattfield is not rubberized), but it's more or less the same machine.
Your assumptions are all absolutely correct, the splinter guard should press down onto the material being cut and should touch the cut line with zero tolerance. I got a great deal on a Bosch and 2 x 1.6m tracks, great tool wouldn’t want to be without it. Love the videos keep up the good work.
Good to hear I wasn’t making a simple stupid mistake! Not sure if I should take it back and just go for a ‘grown up’ version or get some wider splinter guard strip and battle on with it.
To make proper use of that setup you definitely need a wider splinter guard. Your dust collection is pretty bad, I get nearly 100% extraction with a Henry connected, if that’s a concern I don’t see a simple solution. I think your homemade solution is excellent, do you have any annoying issues with it that a “proper” track saw setup might resolve?
+1 for taking it back - like other posters have mentioned it's a lottery with the bad QC on these cheap tools. I've got a few Lidl and Workzone tools still going after several years of use and others that lasted days.. including a Workzone random orbit sander that died after one use.
This is a good piece of kit. I have two, one with a laminate blade and the other with a rip blade. Both blades are Freud. Change the blade holder screw for a stainless 5mm (I think). Now I run mine on Festool track (and yes, I have a T55 as well) and have no problem. Yes, the supplied track leaves a gap of 3mm. get some sticky backed foam (2.5mm thick) and replace the existing black foam. As a good work a day tool, they are great. Dust collection is ok, not too noisy and if the get stolen I'm out sixty quid, not three hundred… Had both for about two-years now and they have worked faultlessly and I have put some pretty shitty ply through them as well MFC. A lot depends upon the blade.
You get what you pay for! My Makita track saw is brilliant, it is a game changer, would not be without it now. Far better than a handmade jig with my aldi circular saw (which never gets used now).
I just bought a Mac one from B&Q for £55 on offer. It looks pretty similar to your one. It works very well and has saved me loads of time pulling up some old chipboard floor. I think you must have just got a duff one.
Hi, bought this saw 3 years ago and have used it extensivly with no problems since. Splinter guard cut first time. So take Peter's advise and get a swap. Mo.
Duff track there, I got myself a Titan track saw from screwfix after watching 10 minute workshop. (Lidl didn't have the Parkside at the time) it's already paid for itself....bloody love tracksaws
In my experience what you pay for is QA and service. The tool may not be fundamentally different to a Mafell but you’ve paid 10% of the cost, a big chunk of that 90% goes on after sales and ensuring the tool meets the specification sold. I’ve got the Mafell and wouldn’t be without it.
Oddly enough this is one of your best videos. Obviously something amiss with the Lidl. All I can say is that my Festool tracksaw has been to Mars and back, and still cuts beautifully.
This has got to be an issue with that particular saw. I used to use the Erbauer track saw and it was good for its price. I bought some Makita tracks and that improved it. I then upgraded to the mighty Festool and it’s amazing. A budget track saw should still have a splinter guard that should prevent splinters. I feel your pain. I would have completely spat my dummy out.
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with the Parkside tracksaw. I'd have to agree with another post: it's a dud! Just take it back. Lidl will not give you any grief. I've got the Makita, corded and cordless - both are fabulous and an absolute pleasure to use. But at 65 quid, the Parkside is an absolute bargain, coming in at less than the price of a single Makita battery. Just take it back for a swap and spend the money on a better blade rather than a new splinter guard.
Thanks for the video - conversley I purchased one the other day when they were on sale and the position of the blade and splinter guard was fine. Trimmed it off as you are meant to. I was also able to take off my blade (I always do that with a new tool) without a problem. My saw had the tiniest amount of wiggle in the plunge mechanism but still makes a nice cut. Whilst I agree with the video, I must come back to the point it was £65, and for that price it is a great bit of kit (when it works as intended). There is lies the moral of the story; you get what you pay for and make sure you check the tool out thoroughly after you buy it and don't be afraid to return it if it is broken or non-functional in some way.
Omg all the guys are here; Peter Millard, Skillbuilder et al. Hey! you guys ever thought of doing a panel or something. All we need now is Ave! I love you guys no BS or hype approach to things.
Hi Tim. Is there any chance you could take it back and exchange it for another just to see if it's any better? Another review would be really useful I'm sure. Thanks for the videos. Appreciated.
Tim you may find that there are screws on that attach the plate to the saw, it could be that they are not set up properly hence the 3mm gap. You should be taking off at least 2mm when you do your first cut. I don't own the Lidi Tracksaw. I bought a Mikita a few years back and can hand on heart say they are fantastic tools.
So what tracks will fit this saw? I am trying to undertand what types of tracks are there and which group does parkside belong to? and what about scheppach?
Michael Chapman got one too a few weeks back, very impressed - and thought “should have got one much earlier than i did!” quiet, amazingly thin and sharp blade makes very precise & clean cuts, cordless, and excellent dust extraction. thinking of going down the 10 min workshop route and getting rid of my table saw...
I’m a massive makita fan but had been using a 110v festool for the last 3 years. Got sick of carrying around the transformer and got the makita. Festool hasn’t been out it’s box in 3 months. Only thing I prefer on the festool is the depth stop but honestly wish I’d gone with the makita all along. Cordless us a game changer when trimming doors and not getting caught up in the cable.
@joe D - Same as me, prior to buying the track saw I bought the dewalt table saw but just as you say the 10 min workshop way with the hinge on the mft or a set of dogs make the table saw almost worthless. I’ll keep it though as I love hoarding tools 😂 @skaterguy that’s good to know, as much as I like makita I buy anything now, have to admit not trialling any rail saws and just went out on a limb with the makita, the blade as you say is fantastic. The only issue I’ve had is when I did some bevel cuts the blade seemed to clip the aluminium- probably me doing something wrong? 😬
Finally a true video when things don't seem to go to plan. All these years I thought it was me that just always got the 'Friday afternoon one' . Thanks for your honesty throughout. Brilliant channel 👍🏼
I had exactly the same issue with it. I couldn’t unlock the saw blade screw either. Rounded off the hex and took it back to Lidl and swopped it for another one. Just managed to get the next saw screw off without rounding that one as well (using a decent quality Allen key and some 3 in 1 oil around the screw before attempting it. I’ve noticed the same issue with the rubber splinter edge and plan to change it to a strip used by Peter Millard in his review. I spent quite a bit of cash on a decent mitre saw but couldn’t justify doing the same for a track saw but may regret that in the months ahead. Once I’ve changed the splinter guard strip I think it will do the job (although if I am going to put a thicker splinter guard strip I may need to change the non slip strips as well, rather than fuss around getting it exactly 90 deg as they would then be too thin, and the track wouldn’t be laying flat). Lastly will put in a thinner kerf 48 tooth blade before I trim the splinter guard. £10 for the triton blade, £15 for a roll of strip, so about £85 in total which is still really quite cheap. I better make good use of it after all this messing about lol
I have a Makita track saw and they take a small amount of time to get used to if you've not used one before. But, the convenience and accuracy of making long straight accurate cuts "on the line" even for occasional use is helpful. No more accurate than your jig except for possibly moisture absorption (happened to my MDF worktop jig) and having no lateral support on the cut side. I do think you had a rogue saw though, from what I've seen these Aldi TSs are a no brainer.
Interesting. After watching Peter Millard's Videos I think the Titan one looks like the best budget one and has the best/most compatible rails. They are on sale at B@Q as they are selling off all the titan stock. Doesn't show on the website but it's £55 in my local one instore. I think I would return that Parkside one, it shouldn't be worse than a circular with a rail (which is what I currently use!)
I got the Screwfix one after a different review on that one. It's very good and runs on a more standard track. It also has a very smooth cut on the standard blade compared to my old circular saw.
I have the Titan tracksaw from Screwfix, which cost about £110 and I find it very good as an occasional user. It's taken a bit of time to get used to it but I love it - I also bought an MFT type top with benchdogs as well as some clamps for the track and it makes life so much easier - and accurate. I have issues with ultra cheap stuff so the old adage of get what you pay for seems apt!
Hi I bought a second hand Dewalt with two long rails for £150.00 I have replaced the splinter guards on both tracks on both sides at a cost of £19.00 but one of the best tools I have ever bought. Very clean accurate cuts every time and when using with my shop vac no dust at all. Sometimes better to buy a secondhand good quality tool than a cheap new one. 😃👍
Another great video mate I have a battery makita circular saw which I manage to do most jobs with. I've seen them plunge saws in lidl walked past them a few times wondering whether to buy one I'm a bit unsure now. What do u rekon tim is it worth the money ?
been looking for a cheap tracksaw for ages.. bought the same parkside saw from Lidl and have had no issues..used it to cut 8' x 4' MDF sheets..does the job. good enough for the D I Yer.
I may have missed a video.. correct me if I have. But did you make your sawdust extractor yourself? I've a lovely blue barrel with lid in the garden ideal for that purpose. Any tips ?
I can understand your frustration... out of the box and a major feature, doesn't do its job... the rubber edge guide and splinter strip... As I understand it (not yet bought one... still researching) the Erbauer Tracksaw is quite good (within its budget limitations). Coming with two 700mm makita compatible track sections and clamps and joiners.
If I cut sheet goods frequently, the bells and whistles of a track saw would make sense. However, making your own track for a circular saw (there are several good plans on TH-cam) is just as accurate and nearly as easy in set up as a track saw and much less expensive. There are multiple tools and shop accoutrements I would prioritize for purchase before I bought a track saw.
did you know your current bosch circular saw will probably fit onto a track? I think you'll need some inserts to fit it to a bosch track - but without these mounted, you can use the festool track (assuming its the same system as the convetional mafell/bosch plunge saws)
I recommend the Bosch Track saw. the track is nice and joins better than the others. I ditched my table saw, miter saw and my battery saw hardly leaves the case.
I bought a PTSS 1200 C1 (German/schuko version) yesterday. I have exactly the same problem with the splinter guard: it's convex and only extends 4.5-5.5 mm uncut (it's not even consistent in width). The default blade barely touches it with the tips at some points (4.5 mm ones) and would want to go through the rubber about 1mm at the most in some places. But it's still almost useless as a splinter guard since its outer edge sits a fully 1mm above the plate of the bottom/board. On the other hand the motor on mine runs much more nicely with less of a rattle/chatter sound of badly fitting gear like yours. Yours sounds very much like the motor of the cheaper non-track saws that Lidl also sells (PHKS 1350 C2), which make a horrible gear sound. Do a scoring cut with your saw and check the width of the cut. The rattling (non-track) stuff that Lidl sells were cutting a groove wider by nearly 0.5mm compared to the saw blade teeth thickness (3mm vs 2.5mm), and also a bit wavy. (I was using a clamped down side-guide [a PTSS track actually], so it wasn't my hand waving.) So you may want to check that your PTSS doesn't have that kind of problem as well given the noise it makes... (N.B.: the PTSS comes with 2.6mm blade, the PHKS with a 2.5.) There was no suspicious black goo on my PTSS (and no lube whatsoever on that return spring), but it did have some gear lube on some of the tips of the blade... and inside the blade housing, where it quickly collected dust into clumps; I noticed the latter when I changed the blade to the Lidl 160mm 48-teeth (which cuts more nicely on melamine compared to the default blade).
For cutting floors the evolution saw is good. Mainly because the blade is multi material, so if you find a hidden nail/screw it carries straight on thru.
I've a Festool 55 - Splinter guard on my track saw is indeed flush with the blade. I have super smooth cuts with almost no splintering when I use my saw. I wonder if the track is used and someone maybe had a thicker blade and precut it already? Either that or I'd imagine its a manufacturing fault/issue. I've trimmed several doors in my house due to carpet installs.. the Festool (regarded as expensive) has already paid for itself in me paying a joiner/carpenter. I'd say if you replace the rubber strip and make sure its deep enough - then you'd see much better results. Honestly, if there is no way to adjust the blade then you've bought a turkey :( sorry pal.
Brilliant real world, see it as it is video. Thanks for taking the time to put this out. For the price, one could reasonably expect the tech/spec to be old hat. But it should still do what it is designed to do, abeit not as well as a more expensive brand. Disappointed for you and grateful as I was on the verge of getting one of these on a similar basis as yours in that I have managed thus far without one but for the price, hey what the heck, let's have one. You've saved me and countless others the disappointment. As an aside, have you considered purchasing some rubber splinter guard strips and sticking them to the bottom of your home made track to upgrade the cut quality? Can't see why that wouldn't work, bringing your simple device into another level.
That's a real bummer for you. I don't think it's user error, looks more like it was built on a Friday afternoon. Peter Millard recently posted a video about the same track saw. Worth a look if you haven't already. Going by your last video in which you unveiled that monster Makita rip snorter you obviously know when a good quality saw is the way to go. Perhaps you should just bite the bullet and buy a better branded one. Cordless or corded is now the extra option to think about but either way I reckon you won't regret it. Not just for cutting 8'x4' sheet material. Trimming doors, trim work tops, sink and hob cut outs, etc. Keep up the good work.
hi tim , i bought the aldi one, noisy as you say it did cut the splinter strip but i had to bend the edge of the track to make it sit down on to the surface of the timber, also when joining the 700mm tracks together check that they are straight mine where not, one connector bar supplied is not enough. take it back
00:12 "Did I really need to buy a track saw?" lol - did my wife need a new pair of shoes? Great intro - taking a philosophical view of things - guaranteed to win one's attention!
Hi, I bought one the same make as yours and the first cut work as it should and cut the rubber to make the splinter guard. I love mine and use it a lot to cut down sheet material. I don't know why yours is so far out, but I suggest you take it back and get another one. You will find that your homemade one is just as good as the "Parkside" but I still like mine.
All your comments on the track are correct - the rubber edge should be hard against your cut piece and it should be a sacrificial cut for the first use. Haven’t used the Lidl one but have the cordless DeWalt version which I’d recommend - not heard a bad word about Festool or Makita’s either. I wouldn’t give up on track saws though like others have said and whilst they aren’t table saw or mitre saw replacements they would be my first choice out of the three. Anyway, look at it this way, look what you’ve accomplished without one :)
I do like your very truthful videos and I have just bought one of these saws (2 years after you lol) and straight away I had to check the track and just to let you know that mine was fine so they may have adjusted the design or you got a duff one. How did you overcome it in the end?
The bolt holding the blade on 'should' be a normal thread (not left hand) because of the direction of rotation of the motor, it should self tighten. The rubber strip is mainly so you can line up your marks with the edge.
I picked up rutlands one which looks very similar first cut I hated it,but after 3 or so cuts getting used to it I must say I was impressed,same depth gauge by the looks of it I had no issue with the rubber it took a consistent 32 nd of inch off the rubber.I enjoyed using it so much I built a console desk with draw underneath and tapered legs all done on this saw, dust extraction was superb on 12mm mdf and pretty respectable on 18mm, I'm wondering about blade changing now,I think you had a duff one there mate enjoyed your vid all same
SorryTim, you got the wrong one, with the right track saw you will never look back. I have had my Bosch GKE 55 for some time and it is beautiful. Must have cut 40 plus 8 by 4 sheets by now and is as good as the day I brought it.
I got the one from Aldi. Possibly made by the same manufacturer. Works well. No issues. In fact quite likely that the same company made the Erbauer circular saw you have.
Watching in the current hot spell seeing with a zip wool top yep I know filmed a while ago , generally park side stuff not too bad . Get rid of . What are the cordless saws you use .? Hope you don’t mind me asking .
By size, sheen and shape of the splinter guard, I guess it is actually a glide strip! I have another brand cheap tracksaw, and after few tries replaced blade, splinter guard and glide strips (Makita makes decent ones). Now it works lot better.
Good effort Tim. Think I'll stick to the homemade track method. I find that all their drill drivers and some saws are great but other items can be hit and miss. A few months back they brought out a Parkside Performance range of 3 items. Cordless grinder, driver and circular saw. I haven't used the grinder much but the others are amazing quality. The driver and saw were £100 each but with double the power of the standard range and I dare say twice the quality.
i'm not really convinced by track-saws yet. I made my own jig, just like the one you had already, and with a few clamps, you can really cut full-size sheets accurately too.
Thanks for that, I’m going to make that jig and save some money for other tools, don’t need a track saw that much, your jig is perfect for my use, great video 👍🏻 true and honest
Hello , Did you know your Bosch circular saw will run off a guide rail ? (Im fairly sure ,I have the newer version ) Personally I hate that particular saw . But had one as a trial .
Dont be disheartened by the parkside, i have the makita sp6000 and its great! Granted its quite a price difference but once you use it you would see what the extra money was spent on! 👍
You definitely got a dodgy one! I have the makita track saw, and about a year ago I got the lidl one for rough work...and I've got to say I have found it to be a really good track saw. Especially for the £80 I paid
Remove the splinter guard and clean off the adhesive. Turn it up the other way so that the concave is facing down and use some double sided tape to stick it back on with a bigger over hang that can be trimmed as originally intended. Fixed.
From what i’ve seen of this Parkside Tracksaw it does seem ok especially if you put a decent blade in it and of course you need to change that splinter guard else the whole idea behind placing the track on your pencil mark is void. Take it back to lidl for an exchange before they sell out Peter Millard from “10 minute workshop” has done a great in depth review on cheap tracksaw comparisons and as a primarily Festool user he recommended this saw.
It's a learning curve I guess, you don't know until you try or at least try and emerse yourself in TH-cam relevant vids. Already own a secondhand Festool but again interesting and informative. Thanks
I've got exactly the same with exactly the same issues. That bolt is on there STUCK, and the rubber is no touching the blade. It was good for some rough jobs, but now i'm gonna do some more accurate jobs, it's a pain.
The strip is easy to take off, and reapply if the adhesive allows it. Otherwise you need to clean it up with sticker remover and use carpettape to reattach it onto the rail. Not a good start for a new product but easier fix than complain about it at the manufacturer. Also you can buy the strips from festool for this rail. Here in The Netherlands we got a company who sells tracks in 1400MM in one piece for 30 EUR. (HBM) and Festool and makita rails should work on this parkside as well.
I can only assume it was a bad batch then because the one I bought did not have any of those issues. I agree its definitely budget and not really quiet but it does work fine in action.
Ah mate. What a bummer! Write to Makita and ask them nicely and tell them you will do a review video! Who knows you could get someone generous on the other end ha! If your home made track works for you... stick with it! If it gets your job done the way you want. Take care. 👍
![Screwfix Titan or Lidl's Parkside Plunge Saw? [video #326]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FSY9EWsF_3w/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Tim. Thanks for the shout-out. I’d have chucked it back to Lidl as soon as I found that gunk all over the housing tbh. I do wonder about the QC from one year to the next; my Parkside saw is from last year, perhaps that makes a difference. For clarity, and anyone new to the tracksaw/plungesaw world, there’s usually a good ~8mm or so of rubber splinterguard exposed at the edge of a new guiderail that gets trimmed back on the first cut - better to make that cut against a surface, btw - and then acts as a reference for your cut line. The splinter guards are a consumable, so can be replaced, but you shouldn’t need to do that on a brand new rail. The one benefit of buying supermarket tools is they don’t quibble about returns or replacements - chuck it back to Lidl and move on.
BTW dust collection can usually be improved by taping over the access hole in the blade cover - it can make a huge difference - but DC on these entry-level saws is ‘OK’ at best; you don’t get Festool levels of dust collection without spending Festool money, unfortunately. For anyone who remains ‘tracksaw curious’ I did a 7-part Tracksaw Workshop’ series earlier in the year. 👍👍
Thanks Peter, great series and one I've watched a few times!
Titan all the way
I bought a second hand Festool plunge saw. Worked perfectly out the box and now my fav tool for accuracy and reproducability. You can't do a plunge cut with a circular saw, and that was vital when i was installing my kitchen.
Bought one last week, upgraded the blade before I even started using and I've used it several times already. Very happy for the money.
2 Years on UPDATE. I never bothered with a replacement and learnt my lesson, you get what you pay for. As it would be a tool that would be used regularly and for many years, I hunted down a great used Festool which has been an invaluable addition to the workshop for the past 2 years, it's spot on every time and doesn't give you that feeling of "I wish I had got the better one" every time you pick it up!
UPDATE. Long story short, the saw works fine but quality control a huge let down. As I mentioned in the video, many people have had a good result from this saw, so appears I was unfortunate to get a dud. After more investigation and discussions with other owners it looks as if the splinter guard was incorrect in size and profile and the blade itself fitted in such a way that it was offset enough to miss splinterguard and nearly clip the casing of the saw. Due to being a one off product, unlikely to replace so probably refund and then look elsewhere for an alternative. Thanks for all the comments and advice. :-) We will be back woith another track saw one day, I am not put off!
@nasser d schappach is a different saw than the titan, its not compatible with standard festool tracks
the Titan is the same saw as the Macallister both in B&Q and screwfix.....some deals around on them at the moment
@nasser d the Aldi one and the Schappach ones are the same
My dewalt splinter guard had lots of material to cut off, but you have to make sure the cams on the track rollers are set right. I have a dewalt (14yo) which i have never had a problem with. This is what you get when you go too cheap.
Hi there. I had the same issue with the jammed nut on the blade. I did a bit of research and ended up drenching the area with wd40. 24 hours later I was able to loosen it.
Actually, after more investigation of my own, the convex guard has been there on the Lidl saw since the very first model (A1). I think the actual problem is the large distance between the aluminium track edge (not the rubber) and the blade. On a Festool there's about a blade-width distance between the blade and the aluminium edge of track (2.5-3mm let's say). On the Lidl saw there's a gap of about 5mm, which is a lot. Even with a better (non-convex) rubber strip, it will flex a lot more on the Lidl saw track. A real fix would be an entirely different track. The real question is: does anyone make track that fits the width of the Lidl saw plate properly, i.e. with a clearance of about 3mm...
Very refreshing to see an HONEST review of a tool - sponsored or not. Keep up the good work Tim
Hi there!
I bought myself a Festool one. It was at that time the cheapest namebrand tracksaw around. I payed 400€ for a kit with case, fine toothed sawblade and 1.40m track. Never regreted it. Especially the Festool blades are very cheap in comparison to others. I would recommend importing it from Germany and changing the plug in Britain.
To be honest, I think your solution with the Bosch plus DIY track was totally fine. You still can put a rebate under that track to protect the edges with a lip. I use these lips several times. If they tear, i reglue it onto the track and trim it. Only when they get too slim, I replace it.
If you order tracks, I can recommend Triton or Makita ones. They all differ slightly but are mostly suited for these saws. Cheaper ones tend to have such issues.
And yes, dust extraction on saws is always bad. Even table saws seem to throw particles everywhere. Only Maffel seem to get it right on their handheld saws. But the prices...
I hope that helps!
Regards,
Etna.
"Only Maffel seem to get it right on their handheld saws. But the prices.."
Just bought the Maffel.
Only £50 more than the Bosch, and Cheaper than the Festool.
Nice! Have fun with that. How much did you pay? I'm just curious. Foreign prices are so different. I've read the Festool is 1000$ in the US. That boggles my mind.
@@Etna.
£389
I feel your disappointment! :) Another vote for taking it back - I think you got a lemon as there shouldn't be any grease visible. I've had this Lidl saw for a year now and used it pretty much every day (van build!). For reference, the distance from the edge of the splinter guard to the raised part of the track is 122mm on mine after trimming (179mm overall). The actual splinter guard rubber is 19mm wide after trimming. I did change the blade to a 40T one, but even the blade that came with it is OK. I've found it gives a very nice, accurate cut, but above all, it's so quick! Change it if you can, or take it back.
Great video. I bought one of these for £30 on Facebook market place (2nd hand but unopened). Brilliant value and mine works fine and it fitted the track and trimmed the strip on first pass like it should. Also bought extra track direct from the manufacturer. At under £10 a length inc postage from Germany an even better bargain. My comments from using it... Cable is very stiff and not flexible unlike most other tools using a power cord. The red knobs used to adjust clearance in the track groove need tightening every time used. Only one connector used between track lengths rather than at two points so track can be easily missaligned. Checking track joins with a straight edge is essential. Assembled track lengths also tend to twist so the saw sometimes will not flow over the join. A little bit underpowered. Anything more than 18mm ply goes a bit slow. Finish is good even on the standard blade. Blade a bit slow to slow down when cut finished. Had a few kick backs but now I am aware, avoid moving it when stopping. I’d like to say it’s rubbish, but for the money it’s great. I even find myself reaching for it instead of using my high end and also very heavy mitre and table saws. I know what to would prefer to lug upstairs! If you come across one, get one. Otherwise save up for a branded one like the Festool. The concept of this tool is a time, space and back saver!
Never underestimate the usefulness of a failure, we learn more when it doesn’t go according to plan. I have often looked at the power tools in Aldi etc but they are always priced at a point where the risk isn’t worth it and this has reinforced my thought process. Most useful video I have seen of yours yet as it has saved me money and most importantly disappointment :-)
Thanks for the Skillbuilder mention, very kind! Keep up the good work
No worries. You and Roger were a lot more thorough than I would be! Looking out for a makita or used festool now I think. Was worth a try at least! 🙄
Just a quick line to both of you guys I watch your videos online and as a chippy I have to say both you guys do a great job and hope your both well through this pandemic
I bought one last week. Made a fine adjustment to the blade using the small grub screw to get it 90° and went on to cut the splinter guard. My rubber / plastic strips were a good 2-3mm long so cut through and and now they sit flush to the blade as they should so sounds like you got a dud.
I may have been doing it wrong and it wasn’t in the manual but from what I could see but when cutting the splinter guards you can only do the start and end of the cut with only one of the tensioners in the rail which wouldn’t cut the guard exactly where the saw would be unless you’re very lucky and hold it really straight and get the 2nd tensioner in the rail without moving side to side. I got around this by joining the 2 rails together one way then swapping them around.
Agree about the noisy motor (compared with my Bosch) but not tried out the dust extraction yet.
my (now ex) boyfriend bought me a festool track saw about 8 years ago - he got it cheap because a guy he used to work with started up a festool shop. i'm pretty strong, but i'm not Lou Ferrigno, so lifting a sheet of 3/4" anything onto my table saw and working it was a pain - farting around with rolling runoffs etc... to be fair, since then i built an 8x8 table with two tablesaws in opposite corners, so each has a great run off , so maybe not quite a useful as it was, but the festool was perfect for what i needed it for at the time - even just for ripping a 4x8' sheet in two, then cutting it at the table saw. not sure if festool is actually worth the money - lots of opinions on that - but mine was 'free', so worth every penny - but with the table, and a sled, i seldom use it anymore. but if you don't have a huge table, these track saws are awesome - and make everything much safer - at least for me.
After watching this I realise I’m not alone with the vacuum issue. Thanks for taking time to record it, now I won’t waste hours trying to get the dc to work and reluctantly send back the saw. I was excited, as you were for this item but like you found it’s not lived up to my expectations!
Its all a learning curve, I have a Dewalt Track saw and it is the best , most used tool I have. No dust, extremely accurate and powerful. In this scenario i think it is a case of you get what you pay for but it is the size of a bus and heavy as an electricians wallet.
Do you have the 54V FlexVolt cordless DeWalt track saw? I have that one and it's a beast of a machine and couldn't live without it now.
@@edobrien_92 No Mine is the mains powered one, had it a while now before the battery one was available it is heavy and loud but as you say a preferred tool that I use all the time
Good to see a review which shows the potential issues. I am very surprised the blade bolt is not easily removed.
I bought a track for regular circular saw about 18 years ago. The track works well to give me a straight and clean cut on sheet goods, which is the only time I use this. This has a sacrificial plastic edge to act as zero clearance and minimize splintering.
I know how to pivot my circular saw if I need to plunge to start the cut.
I do not feel a dedicated track saw would give me much improvement, perhaps only in dust collection. Not enough improvement for me to justify the tool. Also would not get used much in my shop.
My circular saw has universal motor like the one you purchased, so it is loud.
Dave.
100% that is a lemon.
I have the titan, but you're right it is absolutely supposed to cut the rubber strip, and that strip is supposed to be in contact with the material you're cutting.
Personally id return it and go to screwfix and get a titan, I think you'd be pleasantly surprised....
Or maybe your new contacts at B&Q could hook you up with one for a comparison!
Don't give up 😉
I have a dewalt track saw and a friend has the festool. Both expensive bits of kit. Neither guide touches the blade. Not good enough really
100% tracksaw is a huge advantage. Admittedly I am a carpenter and I have a festool but it is so far ahead of any circular saw for finish and ease of use it
I picked one up which doesn't seem to have the same problem with regards to the track at least. I haven't tried to remove the blade yet.
That looks and sounds a bit nasty. I researched these a fair bit. I got as good as I could economically get.
I got the Makita SP6000 over a year ago now, I dunno how I managed without it. the features on it are superb. The tracks are a lot longer than the scrappy bits of track with the Parkside model. I have used mine on several occasions to simply shave a millimeter or two of door edges amongst lots of other jobs like breaking down 8' x 4' sheets of MDF OSB and plywood. It works a dream. If taking a cut with the full kerf of the blade, the dust extraction is stunning, even with just the dust bag and without hooking up the vac. there is also an option to run the length of your cut with a first pass a millimeter or so deep to stop blade chipping out the timber. The reviews I read said the Makita was only slightly behind Festool, which is really good but out of most peoples budget.
I hunted for a deal where it included a couple of 1.5mtr guide rails. I love it.
And you are right, the first use will trim the edge if the anti chip strip on a decent setup. Your tool looked really bad! I simply line the track up to pencil marks and cut, it's accuracy? it is within half a millimeter.
I just had a quick scout about on the web, it may sound extremely steep to pay £380 for the FULL kit including clamps, track joining kit, carry bag for the 2 tracks you get etc. But this is so versatile and has a carry case for the saw too.
I can recommend this kit as well :)
I checked out a Pattfield track saw (sold exclusively at Hornbach, a German big box chain). It's undoubtedly made by the same Chinese company as the Lidl saw. The track, although sold separately and 1.4m long, has exactly the same convex rubber strip as the Lidl saw. So that's probably no manufacturing error, but "by design". The Pattfield saw has some differences to the Lidl one, but its base is almost identical... except it actually makes use of the anti-tipping slot that is cut in the base of the Lidl saw as well. The Pattfield saw also comes with a (misaligned) riving knife and this reduces the blade to 160mm. Alas the knife looks held by a single screw so it would probably be hard to align. There are also some minor differences in the plastic molding between the Lidl and Pattfield saws (most notably the front handle of the Pattfield is not rubberized), but it's more or less the same machine.
Your assumptions are all absolutely correct, the splinter guard should press down onto the material being cut and should touch the cut line with zero tolerance.
I got a great deal on a Bosch and 2 x 1.6m tracks, great tool wouldn’t want to be without it.
Love the videos keep up the good work.
Good to hear I wasn’t making a simple stupid mistake! Not sure if I should take it back and just go for a ‘grown up’ version or get some wider splinter guard strip and battle on with it.
To make proper use of that setup you definitely need a wider splinter guard.
Your dust collection is pretty bad, I get nearly 100% extraction with a Henry connected, if that’s a concern I don’t see a simple solution.
I think your homemade solution is excellent, do you have any annoying issues with it that a “proper” track saw setup might resolve?
+1 for taking it back - like other posters have mentioned it's a lottery with the bad QC on these cheap tools. I've got a few Lidl and Workzone tools still going after several years of use and others that lasted days.. including a Workzone random orbit sander that died after one use.
This is a good piece of kit. I have two, one with a laminate blade and the other with a rip blade. Both blades are Freud. Change the blade holder screw for a stainless 5mm (I think). Now I run mine on Festool track (and yes, I have a T55 as well) and have no problem. Yes, the supplied track leaves a gap of 3mm. get some sticky backed foam (2.5mm thick) and replace the existing black foam. As a good work a day tool, they are great. Dust collection is ok, not too noisy and if the get stolen I'm out sixty quid, not three hundred… Had both for about two-years now and they have worked faultlessly and I have put some pretty shitty ply through them as well MFC. A lot depends upon the blade.
You get what you pay for! My Makita track saw is brilliant, it is a game changer, would not be without it now. Far better than a handmade jig with my aldi circular saw (which never gets used now).
I just bought a Mac one from B&Q for £55 on offer. It looks pretty similar to your one. It works very well and has saved me loads of time pulling up some old chipboard floor. I think you must have just got a duff one.
Hi, bought this saw 3 years ago and have used it extensivly with no problems since. Splinter guard cut first time. So take Peter's advise and get a swap. Mo.
Duff track there, I got myself a Titan track saw from screwfix after watching 10 minute workshop. (Lidl didn't have the Parkside at the time) it's already paid for itself....bloody love tracksaws
In my experience what you pay for is QA and service. The tool may not be fundamentally different to a Mafell but you’ve paid 10% of the cost, a big chunk of that 90% goes on after sales and ensuring the tool meets the specification sold. I’ve got the Mafell and wouldn’t be without it.
Oddly enough this is one of your best videos. Obviously something amiss with the Lidl. All I can say is that my Festool tracksaw has been to Mars and back, and still cuts beautifully.
This has got to be an issue with that particular saw. I used to use the Erbauer track saw and it was good for its price. I bought some Makita tracks and that improved it. I then upgraded to the mighty Festool and it’s amazing. A budget track saw should still have a splinter guard that should prevent splinters. I feel your pain. I would have completely spat my dummy out.
I saw you using erbauer circular saw is it a lot different between Makita dss611z as both are made in china? Thx
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with the Parkside tracksaw.
I'd have to agree with another post: it's a dud! Just take it back. Lidl will not give you any grief.
I've got the Makita, corded and cordless - both are fabulous and an absolute pleasure to use. But at 65 quid, the Parkside is an absolute bargain, coming in at less than the price of a single Makita battery.
Just take it back for a swap and spend the money on a better blade rather than a new splinter guard.
Thanks for the video - conversley I purchased one the other day when they were on sale and the position of the blade and splinter guard was fine. Trimmed it off as you are meant to. I was also able to take off my blade (I always do that with a new tool) without a problem. My saw had the tiniest amount of wiggle in the plunge mechanism but still makes a nice cut. Whilst I agree with the video, I must come back to the point it was £65, and for that price it is a great bit of kit (when it works as intended). There is lies the moral of the story; you get what you pay for and make sure you check the tool out thoroughly after you buy it and don't be afraid to return it if it is broken or non-functional in some way.
Omg all the guys are here; Peter Millard, Skillbuilder et al. Hey! you guys ever thought of doing a panel or something. All we need now is Ave! I love you guys no BS or hype approach to things.
Hi Tim. Is there any chance you could take it back and exchange it for another just to see if it's any better? Another review would be really useful I'm sure. Thanks for the videos. Appreciated.
Doubt they are still for sale as they only run for a week. I’ll see when I go back tomorrow.
Tim you may find that there are screws on that attach the plate to the saw, it could be that they are not set up properly hence the 3mm gap. You should be taking off at least 2mm when you do your first cut. I don't own the Lidi Tracksaw. I bought a Mikita a few years back and can hand on heart say they are fantastic tools.
So what tracks will fit this saw?
I am trying to undertand what types of tracks are there and which group does parkside belong to? and what about scheppach?
Bought a Makita battery one, up there with one of the best tools I own.
Michael Chapman got one too a few weeks back, very impressed - and thought “should have got one much earlier than i did!” quiet, amazingly thin and sharp blade makes very precise & clean cuts, cordless, and excellent dust extraction. thinking of going down the 10 min workshop route and getting rid of my table saw...
I’m a massive makita fan but had been using a 110v festool for the last 3 years. Got sick of carrying around the transformer and got the makita. Festool hasn’t been out it’s box in 3 months. Only thing I prefer on the festool is the depth stop but honestly wish I’d gone with the makita all along. Cordless us a game changer when trimming doors and not getting caught up in the cable.
@joe D - Same as me, prior to buying the track saw I bought the dewalt table saw but just as you say the 10 min workshop way with the hinge on the mft or a set of dogs make the table saw almost worthless. I’ll keep it though as I love hoarding tools 😂 @skaterguy that’s good to know, as much as I like makita I buy anything now, have to admit not trialling any rail saws and just went out on a limb with the makita, the blade as you say is fantastic. The only issue I’ve had is when I did some bevel cuts the blade seemed to clip the aluminium- probably me doing something wrong? 😬
Likewise. I'm a DIYer on a budget and videos like this make me glad I spent the extra!
Finally a true video when things don't seem to go to plan. All these years I thought it was me that just always got the 'Friday afternoon one' . Thanks for your honesty throughout. Brilliant channel 👍🏼
I had exactly the same issue with it. I couldn’t unlock the saw blade screw either. Rounded off the hex and took it back to Lidl and swopped it for another one. Just managed to get the next saw screw off without rounding that one as well (using a decent quality Allen key and some 3 in 1 oil around the screw before attempting it. I’ve noticed the same issue with the rubber splinter edge and plan to change it to a strip used by Peter Millard in his review. I spent quite a bit of cash on a decent mitre saw but couldn’t justify doing the same for a track saw but may regret that in the months ahead. Once I’ve changed the splinter guard strip I think it will do the job (although if I am going to put a thicker splinter guard strip I may need to change the non slip strips as well, rather than fuss around getting it exactly 90 deg as they would then be too thin, and the track wouldn’t be laying flat). Lastly will put in a thinner kerf 48 tooth blade before I trim the splinter guard. £10 for the triton blade, £15 for a roll of strip, so about £85 in total which is still really quite cheap. I better make good use of it after all this messing about lol
I have a Makita track saw and they take a small amount of time to get used to if you've not used one before. But, the convenience and accuracy of making long straight accurate cuts "on the line" even for occasional use is helpful. No more accurate than your jig except for possibly moisture absorption (happened to my MDF worktop jig) and having no lateral support on the cut side. I do think you had a rogue saw though, from what I've seen these Aldi TSs are a no brainer.
Interesting. After watching Peter Millard's Videos I think the Titan one looks like the best budget one and has the best/most compatible rails. They are on sale at B@Q as they are selling off all the titan stock. Doesn't show on the website but it's £55 in my local one instore. I think I would return that Parkside one, it shouldn't be worse than a circular with a rail (which is what I currently use!)
These budget tools are cheap because they don't bother with QC.
So, pay your money and roll the dice to see if you get a good one or a duff one.
nice video. what exactly model is this?
I got the Screwfix one after a different review on that one. It's very good and runs on a more standard track. It also has a very smooth cut on the standard blade compared to my old circular saw.
I have the Titan tracksaw from Screwfix, which cost about £110 and I find it very good as an occasional user. It's taken a bit of time to get used to it but I love it - I also bought an MFT type top with benchdogs as well as some clamps for the track and it makes life so much easier - and accurate. I have issues with ultra cheap stuff so the old adage of get what you pay for seems apt!
You've got a bad one, seriously, take it back. I wouldn't give up my track saw for anything, so don't give up.
Hi I bought a second hand Dewalt with two long rails for £150.00 I have replaced the splinter guards on both tracks on both sides at a cost of £19.00 but one of the best tools I have ever bought. Very clean accurate cuts every time and when using with my shop vac no dust at all. Sometimes better to buy a secondhand good quality tool than a cheap new one. 😃👍
Another great video mate I have a battery makita circular saw which I manage to do most jobs with. I've seen them plunge saws in lidl walked past them a few times wondering whether to buy one I'm a bit unsure now. What do u rekon tim is it worth the money ?
For info, the blade bolt undoes in the direction of the arrow on the casing.
Anti clockwise as you are facing it.
I got the Kreg Accu Cut track for use with my existing cordless circular saw - works great
I have one, and the blade is perfectly aligned with the guide cut line. Greetings from California, friend.
been looking for a cheap tracksaw for ages.. bought the same parkside saw from Lidl and have had no issues..used it to cut 8' x 4' MDF sheets..does the job. good enough for the D I Yer.
Peter Millard has reviewed from a point of view where he’s an avid user of quality plunge saws covering the cheap Enders
I may have missed a video.. correct me if I have. But did you make your sawdust extractor yourself? I've a lovely blue barrel with lid in the garden ideal for that purpose. Any tips ?
I can understand your frustration... out of the box and a major feature, doesn't do its job... the rubber edge guide and splinter strip... As I understand it (not yet bought one... still researching) the Erbauer Tracksaw is quite good (within its budget limitations). Coming with two 700mm makita compatible track sections and clamps and joiners.
If I cut sheet goods frequently, the bells and whistles of a track saw would make sense. However, making your own track for a circular saw (there are several good plans on TH-cam) is just as accurate and nearly as easy in set up as a track saw and much less expensive. There are multiple tools and shop accoutrements I would prioritize for purchase before I bought a track saw.
did you know your current bosch circular saw will probably fit onto a track? I think you'll need some inserts to fit it to a bosch track - but without these mounted, you can use the festool track (assuming its the same system as the convetional mafell/bosch plunge saws)
I recommend the Bosch Track saw. the track is nice and joins better than the others. I ditched my table saw, miter saw and my battery saw hardly leaves the case.
I bought a PTSS 1200 C1 (German/schuko version) yesterday. I have exactly the same problem with the splinter guard: it's convex and only extends 4.5-5.5 mm uncut (it's not even consistent in width). The default blade barely touches it with the tips at some points (4.5 mm ones) and would want to go through the rubber about 1mm at the most in some places. But it's still almost useless as a splinter guard since its outer edge sits a fully 1mm above the plate of the bottom/board. On the other hand the motor on mine runs much more nicely with less of a rattle/chatter sound of badly fitting gear like yours. Yours sounds very much like the motor of the cheaper non-track saws that Lidl also sells (PHKS 1350 C2), which make a horrible gear sound. Do a scoring cut with your saw and check the width of the cut. The rattling (non-track) stuff that Lidl sells were cutting a groove wider by nearly 0.5mm compared to the saw blade teeth thickness (3mm vs 2.5mm), and also a bit wavy. (I was using a clamped down side-guide [a PTSS track actually], so it wasn't my hand waving.) So you may want to check that your PTSS doesn't have that kind of problem as well given the noise it makes... (N.B.: the PTSS comes with 2.6mm blade, the PHKS with a 2.5.) There was no suspicious black goo on my PTSS (and no lube whatsoever on that return spring), but it did have some gear lube on some of the tips of the blade... and inside the blade housing, where it quickly collected dust into clumps; I noticed the latter when I changed the blade to the Lidl 160mm 48-teeth (which cuts more nicely on melamine compared to the default blade).
For cutting floors the evolution saw is good. Mainly because the blade is multi material, so if you find a hidden nail/screw it carries straight on thru.
wow, I saw few reviews of this saw and this is first one mentioning these flaws. Thank you.
I've a Festool 55 - Splinter guard on my track saw is indeed flush with the blade. I have super smooth cuts with almost no splintering when I use my saw.
I wonder if the track is used and someone maybe had a thicker blade and precut it already? Either that or I'd imagine its a manufacturing fault/issue.
I've trimmed several doors in my house due to carpet installs.. the Festool (regarded as expensive) has already paid for itself in me paying a joiner/carpenter.
I'd say if you replace the rubber strip and make sure its deep enough - then you'd see much better results.
Honestly, if there is no way to adjust the blade then you've bought a turkey :( sorry pal.
Brilliant real world, see it as it is video. Thanks for taking the time to put this out. For the price, one could reasonably expect the tech/spec to be old hat. But it should still do what it is designed to do, abeit not as well as a more expensive brand. Disappointed for you and grateful as I was on the verge of getting one of these on a similar basis as yours in that I have managed thus far without one but for the price, hey what the heck, let's have one. You've saved me and countless others the disappointment. As an aside, have you considered purchasing some rubber splinter guard strips and sticking them to the bottom of your home made track to upgrade the cut quality? Can't see why that wouldn't work, bringing your simple device into another level.
That's a real bummer for you. I don't think it's user error, looks more like it was built on a Friday afternoon. Peter Millard recently posted a video about the same track saw. Worth a look if you haven't already. Going by your last video in which you unveiled that monster Makita rip snorter you obviously know when a good quality saw is the way to go. Perhaps you should just bite the bullet and buy a better branded one. Cordless or corded is now the extra option to think about but either way I reckon you won't regret it. Not just for cutting 8'x4' sheet material. Trimming doors, trim work tops, sink and hob cut outs, etc.
Keep up the good work.
hi tim , i bought the aldi one, noisy as you say it did cut the splinter strip but i had to bend the edge of the track to make it sit down on to the surface of the timber, also when joining the 700mm tracks together check that they are straight mine where not, one connector bar supplied is not enough. take it back
I bought this saw in 2015 when they first started selling them. I've used mine a lot. Changed the blade once and never had a problem
00:12 "Did I really need to buy a track saw?" lol - did my wife need a new pair of shoes?
Great intro - taking a philosophical view of things - guaranteed to win one's attention!
Hi, I bought one the same make as yours and the first cut work as it should and cut the rubber to make the splinter guard. I love mine and use it a lot to cut down sheet material. I don't know why yours is so far out, but I suggest you take it back and get another one. You will find that your homemade one is just as good as the "Parkside" but I still like mine.
All your comments on the track are correct - the rubber edge should be hard against your cut piece and it should be a sacrificial cut for the first use.
Haven’t used the Lidl one but have the cordless DeWalt version which I’d recommend - not heard a bad word about Festool or Makita’s either. I wouldn’t give up on track saws though like others have said and whilst they aren’t table saw or mitre saw replacements they would be my first choice out of the three.
Anyway, look at it this way, look what you’ve accomplished without one :)
I do like your very truthful videos and I have just bought one of these saws (2 years after you lol) and straight away I had to check the track and just to let you know that mine was fine so they may have adjusted the design or you got a duff one. How did you overcome it in the end?
The bolt holding the blade on 'should' be a normal thread (not left hand) because of the direction of rotation of the motor, it should self tighten.
The rubber strip is mainly so you can line up your marks with the edge.
Has anyone tried this plunges on 45° ?? I can only get mine over to around 40° ?? Any advise appreciated
I picked up rutlands one which looks very similar first cut I hated it,but after 3 or so cuts getting used to it I must say I was impressed,same depth gauge by the looks of it I had no issue with the rubber it took a consistent 32 nd of inch off the rubber.I enjoyed using it so much I built a console desk with draw underneath and tapered legs all done on this saw, dust extraction was superb on 12mm mdf and pretty respectable on 18mm,
I'm wondering about blade changing now,I think you had a duff one there mate enjoyed your vid all same
SorryTim, you got the wrong one, with the right track saw you will never look back. I have had my Bosch GKE 55 for some time and it is beautiful. Must have cut 40 plus 8 by 4 sheets by now and is as good as the day I brought it.
Bosch looks like a good investment. 👍 hindsight huh!
You can see at 8:59 in the video the saw is not at 90 degrees to the base not sure how much difference that makes.
I agree it looks a few degree's off 90, it looks like the blade would close up the gap between the splinter guard if squared up!
@@idrisjones1453 yep you can see it a mile off. Perhaps a follow up video with this issue rectified. Seems only fair tbh.
What model is that bosch ?
I have changed the blade for thin kerf 48 tooth and it cuts work tops well the depth stop takes some fiddling to get your head around
I got the one from Aldi. Possibly made by the same manufacturer. Works well. No issues. In fact quite likely that the same company made the Erbauer circular saw you have.
Yes, it's most certainly a reversed one. Just changed one myself the other day :)
Watching in the current hot spell seeing with a zip wool top yep I know filmed a while ago , generally park side stuff not too bad . Get rid of . What are the cordless saws you use .? Hope you don’t mind me asking .
Bosch circ saw but also Festool track saw now.
I have no advice but I got several laugh out loud moments from that video. Wasn’t expecting that from a track saw review🤣🤣
By size, sheen and shape of the splinter guard, I guess it is actually a glide strip!
I have another brand cheap tracksaw, and after few tries replaced blade, splinter guard and glide strips (Makita makes decent ones). Now it works lot better.
I would agree with that. In the end it went back and I picked up a used festool. 👍
Budget tools should still do the job they are sold to do.
Good effort Tim. Think I'll stick to the homemade track method.
I find that all their drill drivers and some saws are great but other items can be hit and miss.
A few months back they brought out a Parkside Performance range of 3 items. Cordless grinder, driver and circular saw.
I haven't used the grinder much but the others are amazing quality. The driver and saw were £100 each but with double the power of the standard range and I dare say twice the quality.
Is it me, but it looks like there is some play in the angle adjustment on the front not putting the blade at 90?
I've got the Makita and it's one of my most used tools - it's been a true workhorse!
i'm not really convinced by track-saws yet. I made my own jig, just like the one you had already, and with a few clamps, you can really cut full-size sheets accurately too.
Thanks for that, I’m going to make that jig and save some money for other tools, don’t need a track saw that much, your jig is perfect for my use, great video 👍🏻 true and honest
Hello ,
Did you know your Bosch circular saw will run off a guide rail ? (Im fairly sure ,I have the newer version ) Personally I hate that particular saw . But had one as a trial .
Hi I just opened my exact same model and there is a clear 2mm overlap between the blade and the rubber splinter rail. I would say yours is defective.
Dont be disheartened by the parkside, i have the makita sp6000 and its great! Granted its quite a price difference but once you use it you would see what the extra money was spent on! 👍
Headed that way. 👍
You definitely got a dodgy one! I have the makita track saw, and about a year ago I got the lidl one for rough work...and I've got to say I have found it to be a really good track saw. Especially for the £80 I paid
Remove the splinter guard and clean off the adhesive. Turn it up the other way so that the concave is facing down and use some double sided tape to stick it back on with a bigger over hang that can be trimmed as originally intended. Fixed.
From what i’ve seen of this Parkside Tracksaw it does seem ok especially if you put a decent blade in it and of course you need to change that splinter guard else the whole idea behind placing the track on your pencil mark is void. Take it back to lidl for an exchange before they sell out
Peter Millard from “10 minute workshop” has done a great in depth review on cheap tracksaw comparisons and as a primarily Festool user he recommended this saw.
It's a learning curve I guess, you don't know until you try or at least try and emerse yourself in TH-cam relevant vids. Already own a secondhand Festool but again interesting and informative. Thanks
I've got exactly the same with exactly the same issues. That bolt is on there STUCK, and the rubber is no touching the blade. It was good for some rough jobs, but now i'm gonna do some more accurate jobs, it's a pain.
The strip is easy to take off, and reapply if the adhesive allows it. Otherwise you need to clean it up with sticker remover and use carpettape to reattach it onto the rail. Not a good start for a new product but easier fix than complain about it at the manufacturer. Also you can buy the strips from festool for this rail. Here in The Netherlands we got a company who sells tracks in 1400MM in one piece for 30 EUR. (HBM) and Festool and makita rails should work on this parkside as well.
I can only assume it was a bad batch then because the one I bought did not have any of those issues. I agree its definitely budget and not really quiet but it does work fine in action.
You helped us all out if that helps buddy onwards and upwards
Ah mate. What a bummer! Write to Makita and ask them nicely and tell them you will do a review video! Who knows you could get someone generous on the other end ha! If your home made track works for you... stick with it! If it gets your job done the way you want. Take care. 👍