Great video presentation. Would it then be possible to make the joint look exactly like the rest of the brass plates, i.e. to make the joint almost invisible?
Tip refresher (recommended fume extraction and eye protection as with all soldering) is worth a try. Also I have a piece of tinplate from kitchen or brass offcut with a tinned layer of solder on it. To re-tin iron simply clean bit on pad and slide it over the tinned sheet. My current piece of brass is about 3 square inches and is taped to scrap timber 2x1. To protect from burning the timber is wrapped in alfoil from the kitchen. Always a little wary of overheated irons because of vaporising metals. See spec sheets. With our solders I believe tin can boil off. Be especially wary to avoid cadmium!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The boiling off of metals needs looking into. Does anyone have any info? Meanwhile, ventilate well and don't breathe the soldering fumes of any kind. Small irons lose heat to the work very quickly; that's why they are run so hot. I usually run a large bit 60 watt iron through a regulator, throttled up to a little over the melting point as observed. The thermal mass of the iron dwarfs that of the work, and so everything runs cooler. Incidentally, your solder would flow better if you use a larger tip...the work looks underheated. Everyone (especially me), eye and breathing protection, and read the spec sheets. Thanks for channel. Pete
Great video presentation. Would it then be possible to make the joint look exactly like the rest of the brass plates, i.e. to make the joint almost invisible?
Thank you!
Useful!
Thank you. Nice tutorial 👍
Tip refresher (recommended fume extraction and eye protection as with all soldering) is worth a try. Also I have a piece of tinplate from kitchen or brass offcut with a tinned layer of solder on it. To re-tin iron simply clean bit on pad and slide it over the tinned sheet. My current piece of brass is about 3 square inches and is taped to scrap timber 2x1. To protect from burning the timber is wrapped in alfoil from the kitchen.
Always a little wary of overheated irons because of vaporising metals. See spec sheets. With our solders I believe tin can boil off. Be especially wary to avoid cadmium!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The boiling off of metals needs looking into. Does anyone have any info? Meanwhile, ventilate well and don't breathe the soldering fumes of any kind.
Small irons lose heat to the work very quickly; that's why they are run so hot. I usually run a large bit 60 watt iron through a regulator, throttled up to a little over the melting point as observed. The thermal mass of the iron dwarfs that of the work, and so everything runs cooler. Incidentally, your solder would flow better if you use a larger tip...the work looks underheated.
Everyone (especially me), eye and breathing protection, and read the spec sheets.
Thanks for channel.
Pete
Good work!
How hard is the bond between the two parts.
I'm just now starting to get into this.
Thanks for the tutorial btw. :)
Very strong if done right
Yes!
about that solder...60/40 it's that same solder for electronic soldering..?? sorry, i'm new in this
Yes it is the same.
9:46 wow, look at that bug go 😁
Can i get Solder machine details
The solder station is a Weller WES51 and I set it at about 700 degrees F, or 70 on the dial.
👏👏👏👏👏👏🌿🔝👏🔝💯🎓🎓✌️💯🎓💯🎓💯🧢🧢👍👁️🙏👁️🎧🎧💎💎💎🎧📸📸📸📸👏🌿🔝🎓✌️💯🎓🎓🎓👏