This is awesome. I'm curious what printer do you use to print on the paper? How does the toner go from the paper to the brass? Is there a special type that is required? I have some old equipment I'm restoring. This is very helpful. Thanks again for sharing,
This should work with any laser printer. I used a normal copier. The toner is simply transferred with heat and pressure. It should also work with an iron. But it doesn't get really good every time you try it. You have to try it out to see what works well. But it is cheap and without dangerous chemicals. Good luck!
The derusting tanks just use a battery charger and some sodium carbonate to increase conduction. This will transform seriously rusted kit. The processes are the same . One comment is ‘voltage drop’ to be aware of. To clean a flat plate or etch it, the other electrode should be similar in size and equidistant so that the voltage drop per cm. Is the same. If one end is close and the other several cm away then the etching rates are different due to the resistance of the water. I have never seen anyone yet do derusting or etching with a 100 amp arc welder yet. That should be interesting, loads of hydrogen and oxygen. Armour was coated with french polish, cut back with a needle or scraper and then acid etched, electrolytic would work as well. Undercutting on deep etching is a problem.
Very cool, amazing job!! ❤️❤️ I didn't know that it's possible to use electrolysis instead of ferric chlorid or hydrogen peroxide + hydrochloric acid!! I also didn't know that it's necessary some pressure to be properly transferring the toner to the metal, that's the reason my ones usually didn't transfer correctly (I use an iron), being necessary a lot of after corrections with a pen!!! 🤣🤣 Good teachers like you make the difference for us hobbists and amateurs, thank you very much 🥰❤️❤️🥰
It works quite well with all base metals. I have never tried etching silver. It is certainly difficult since silver is a precious metal and not so easy to dissolve. I know it's usually done with highly concentrated nitric acid. Of course, that is quite toxic and dangerous. But it should also work electrolytically. I would try low concentration nitric acid as an electrolyte, which is then electrically assisted. It will probably take a long time to dissolve a few tenths of a millimeter, though. Good luck!
Put a few dabs of superglue on the back and bond it to a flat metal plate. Then sand. That way you get even pressure over the whole thing. Remove with razor blade.
Beautiful job using a range of techniques. Very informative and instructional. Thanks.
Nicely done thanks. Not sure about the big hex galvanised nut on the base! Square polished and oil blacked perhaps
Good job.
Sehr sehr cool das jetzt auch auf TH-cam zu sehen! :)
beatiful work
Que maravilha de trabalho, muito bom mesmo obrigado pela informação.
Great video, very informative.
What material did you use for the anode?
I used an old Allen key. One from the Ikea box of Allen keys. But basically any piece of metal will do.
This is awesome. I'm curious what printer do you use to print on the paper? How does the toner go from the paper to the brass? Is there a special type that is required? I have some old equipment I'm restoring. This is very helpful. Thanks again for sharing,
This should work with any laser printer. I used a normal copier. The toner is simply transferred with heat and pressure. It should also work with an iron. But it doesn't get really good every time you try it. You have to try it out to see what works well. But it is cheap and without dangerous chemicals. Good luck!
The derusting tanks just use a battery charger and some sodium carbonate to increase conduction. This will transform seriously rusted kit. The processes are the same . One comment is ‘voltage drop’ to be aware of. To clean a flat plate or etch it, the other electrode should be similar in size and equidistant so that the voltage drop per cm. Is the same. If one end is close and the other several cm away then the etching rates are different due to the resistance of the water. I have never seen anyone yet do derusting or etching with a 100 amp arc welder yet. That should be interesting, loads of hydrogen and oxygen. Armour was coated with french polish, cut back with a needle or scraper and then acid etched, electrolytic would work as well. Undercutting on deep etching is a problem.
Very cool, amazing job!! ❤️❤️ I didn't know that it's possible to use electrolysis instead of ferric chlorid or hydrogen peroxide + hydrochloric acid!! I also didn't know that it's necessary some pressure to be properly transferring the toner to the metal, that's the reason my ones usually didn't transfer correctly (I use an iron), being necessary a lot of after corrections with a pen!!! 🤣🤣 Good teachers like you make the difference for us hobbists and amateurs, thank you very much 🥰❤️❤️🥰
Fantastic video, thank you for sharing your techniques and knowledge, I can’t wait to try it on some projects! What thickness brass are you using?
Have fun and I wish You success! I used 1 mm brass.
@@chipsdust7534 Thank you 👍🏻😊
This is great. I've been needing to do this on a couple of tools.
Will the etching process work on any other metals? I need to restore a silver tag.
It works quite well with all base metals. I have never tried etching silver. It is certainly difficult since silver is a precious metal and not so easy to dissolve. I know it's usually done with highly concentrated nitric acid. Of course, that is quite toxic and dangerous. But it should also work electrolytically. I would try low concentration nitric acid as an electrolyte, which is then electrically assisted. It will probably take a long time to dissolve a few tenths of a millimeter, though. Good luck!
@@chipsdust7534 cool. Thanks.
Very nice job!👏👏👏
Can I ask what designer program did you use to draw the tags?
Thanks; a full designer program is not necessary for these simple purposes. For me, Powerpoint was easy to use and produced all results I needed.
@@chipsdust7534 Tank you. 👍 It is a new purpose of to use Power point. Awesome.I will try it.
Put a few dabs of superglue on the back and bond it to a flat metal plate. Then sand. That way you get even pressure over the whole thing.
Remove with razor blade.