Idk why TH-cam hasn't been pushing your channel out there brother, you have a wealth of knowledge and experience with these trucks and probably others. Thank You for what you do for us that own them and have legitimate concerns with these types of issues. Thanks again Brother!!!👍👍 Jay.
We’ll get there as for as growing the channel. One side benefit at least for now is the size allows me to be able to help ppl directly from time to time. Which would probably be impossible with a really big channel. Just payin it forward bud and thank you for the compliment as well as giving my channel some of your valuable time. I hope u enjoy as well as get something out of it.
That Part number "Y1C3T-14A067-AB" is also for an 01 F350 7.3L Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 SRW which is what I have, and it has the same number on the side. Thanks for the great video. I've been working in Aircraft Electronics for decades. If you take it apart and clean all the corrosion off the plastic and scrape the metal down to the bare copper so it's shinny, you might be able to fix it. Remove the metal strip from the plastic and clean it real good as I mentioned. Put some flux paste on it and use a butane plumbers torch and gently heat it and apply some new solder on the copper areas. Keep gently heating it and Use some Large Wick Braided Wire to heat the excess solder off. Clean the old flux off with some 90-100 Isopropyl Alcohol and put it back together and try it. Thanks for the great video and the pictures. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
That’s some great info. People Sometimes don’t realize that with a little elbow grease and patients they can save them selves a lot of money and learn a thing or two in the process. Thanks for the info and for watchin I really appreciate it. And I’ll pass it on.
A few years ago my truck took off across the lawn. It was a corroded fuse box, rain, and a manual transmission. I got a new box from Ford. Wish i knew this trick back then. Now i know for the future. Thank you for the video.
@@crazyheadgarage2599 rain on that fuse box can cause some very crazy things to happen. Glad ya got something out of the video. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
You called "Big Lou's" problem exactly. Changed the fuse box and wiring harness. Now he runs perfectly. Thanks for your contribution to the 7.3 community. Well done.
@@bayoudiesel You know, it's cheaper to keep him running (even though it does cost) than to pay sales tax on a new piece of crap. For less than the sales tax on a new truck I rebuilt rear end, u joints, rear bearings, rear and front brakes, front hubs, tie rods, ball joints, sway bar, main engine wiring harness, almost all engine sensors, engine oil change, transmission service, new alternator, new main fuse box, fuses and relays, new ignition switch, pull out drink holder, roof touch up paint, headlight assemblies and bulbs, and led cargo light. And still I have no truck note. Drives like a new truck. Almost 250k miles. Next I'll change floor carpet to a rubber floor and get the seats professionally recovered. Looking for a similar aged dead truck to keep for parts and to have the engine rebuilt and kept on a pallet.
@@rickw7374 agreed. I’d much rather spend the money to keep these girls rolling than give them $85k or more for a new one. I mean come on, that much for a damn pick up? I don’t care how many bells and whistles it has is not worth that kinda money.
Thanks for the video I’m a proud original owner of a f-350 Lariat. 2000. 25 years and counting. I also would like to add. Along with the windshield seal If you have cab lights. They will lose their seal and leak Down the windshield post. Try to put spray foam in the body seams above your fuse box i put 4 inch wide A/C aluminum foil duct tape above the fuse box and GEM module. For extra protection for years to come.
@@nelsongreen1075 all good ideas. The craziest thing I’ve seen is a guy that cut a coolant jug to make an umbrella for his fuse box. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do I guess. Appreciate the good info and thanks for watchin
Thanks man! Got a donor truck and you defiantly showed me some light on a few Gremlins...Like the truck was running and then the starter kicked in...Talk about a "RUSH" (to the battery cables) Thanks again Brother!
Thanks for your help I live in the rust belt and I have had some problems as you described with my 99 F250 and I didn’t know what was happening. Now thanks to your video I see why it’s happened and a way out by fixing the rotten windshield and frame it might help resolve some of the crazy issues I’m having.
Yes sir. Fuse box issues can do some crazy stuff in these trucks. Glad to hear you got some useful info. Please let me know what you find and how you fixed it. Might help some others with their projects. Appreciate you giving my channel some of your time.
I've got a 2008 E350 Super Duty van work truck 6.8 10 cylinder. I think I'm having the same kind of problem turn the key nothing anti-theft light flashes. If I turn the key multiple numerous times it'll start. Sometimes it'll just turn over but not start. I cut a hole in the floor of the van above the fuel pump and replace the fuel pump. Started right up. Two days later same thing turn over turn over turn over nothing. Or not turn over at all. I think my problems going to be in the fuse box. "corrosion". Hasn't happened to my "02" 7.3 yet. As always very helpful. By the way the local shop told me at least $800 just to diagnose the problem. Yeah right. I'll be fixing this one myself too. Thanks man keep it up.cant find folks like y'all up here in Yankee vil
Hey bud. Thanks for the compliment. I’m not to familiar with the 10cyl or vans but I’ll take a shot. Based on ur info about the security light I’m pretty sure if something is setting off the security system it will shut off the fuel pump to prevent theft. If that isn’t a concern I would look into switching that to off if possible. When the light is on do U hear the fuel pump priming?
Also. May want to read up on the security system in the manual cause I think I remember cycling the key waiting on the sex light then again maybe a few times will disarm it and let the fuel pump run. Not sure on this just something I remember from somewhere. Lol. Thinks it’s design it to slow the theft process down. U could still be dealing with a corrosion issue but the sec light make me wonder
I do hear the fuel pump when it's going to start. Sometimes I turn the key on and I get nothing nothing at all doesn't even turn over. Then other times it'll turn over but no power to the fuel pump. But then it would turn over and not start not start I tested out the fuel pump was definitely burned out. Put the new pump in and I'm back to square one starts eventually. I looked at the underhood fuse box took it apart cleaned it up sprayed it with fluid film.used contact cleaner first. It's an old work truck but it runs good '08 430k still in good shape runs great when it runs this is the only major issue I've had with it. Buffalo winter ain't only cold but tons of road salt
@@frankvacanti5277 I hear that. I guess the van fuse boxes could be prone to the same stuff the 7.3’s are. Is she throwing any codes? And are u loosing fuel pump or spark when she doesn’t want to start?
Thanks so much. Very helpful. But right now I'm digging into Injector issues. I appreciate all your videos. Keep them coming please. I wish I knew how to Edit cuz I have some great stuff to show people also.
Editing isn’t that hard. I use a free program called shot cut. There are a bunch of videos on TH-cam about every aspect of shot cut also which helps. Put some of ur stuff out there bud. If u do let me know so I can check it out.
I have been trying to to get my truck running and I thought this was my problem but it’s not. I have o e section at the bottom left side of the fuse panel under the hood of about 5 fuses in a row that are not getting power, then inside the fuse panel in the cab, the whole bottom half of the fuse box isn’t getting power. I’m completely stumped. Any clue what it may be?
@@flynn1727 as for the power distribution box under the hood there are a few fuses that won’t get power until it is switched on. Such as head lights, wipers, trailer tow package. They will test dead uncles turned in while testing. Now for the fuse box under the dash. My guess would be that you may have a corrosion issue causing a ground to some of the bars that are stacked in the bottom of the fuse box. Windshield leaks tend to get water right on the fuse box causing this and can create all kinds of issues. Hope that info helps. Hit me back if you have another question. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
Yep. Last one I did was in a stripped work truck and the fuse box was out of a loaded excursion. Took a pic of the original so I knew what slots were used and what size fuses when there and adjusted the excursion to match, deleting a lot of stuff my truck didn’t have and good to go.
Well so thankful I found your videos I’m gonna order a box off eBay as soon as I get this all figured out but in mean time is there a fix to sealing up the leak so when I replace I won’t be having repeat
Windshield leaks are common on these trucks. They will drip on the fuse box in the 99- early 02’s. Late 02’s had a wiring change and might be a bit less prone to the leak. So the leak effects fuse boxes 2 ways. In a rain storm water will accumulate and make electrical contact. The other is if you have had an ongoing problem the flat bars in the fuse box will develop green corrosion like on a battery and bridge contacts as well. If u think the trouble may have just been that rain you can let everything dry out and try again after fixing the leak. Which usually means pulling and resealing the windshield. If this has been going on for a while then I’d get a fuse box
@@bayoudiesel thanks for reply I posted on ur cloning the f250 box as well before I found this video I’ve only had truck a week first big rain first sign of a problem I’ll ask previous owner but I’m sure was a problem I guess I need to figure out how to pull it out atleast check for signs of corrosion atleast it’s a automatic so clutch pedal won’t be in way again thank you so much for your help
@@jimverh1868 that last box I pulled out was on a project called the tool truck. You may want to check it out. I think I spoke a bit on either the install or removal while putting the dash back together. Either way if you have questions let me know. It’s not that hard to do.
Getting ready to change my fuse box we see if it fixes my crank no start have no wait to start light door locks go up and down when they want and radio comes on with out key in ignition
Yep. When you see crazy electrical things going on it’s usually water leaking in and causing corrosion in the fuse box or the gem module. You may want to have you windshield checked for leaks as well.
@@coolblue4077 I just had to replace one windshield and reseal another. They were leaking on the fuse box/gem module which are on top of each other in the 99-02 models. Can cause strange things like lights coming on, horn blow and other erratic electrical things.
@@ManuelRamirez-bx8lk thanks for the question. So the truck cranks until batteries go down. If it’s not starting then the pcm doesn’t seem like the culprit . I would start with checking the small wire going to the starter for chafing or shorts. You may be able to play with the harness and see if it makes her crank. Also, check your windsheild really close for possible leaks. They are know to leak on to the fuse box and gem module. if you see any green corrosion around the fuse slots water has gotten into the fuse box and that can cause all kinds of ghosts in the machine. if you find this issue you need to replace the fuse box and repair the wind shield leak to stop it. Let me know what ya find. thanks for watchin.
Your comment says they aren’t “starting” in. But the tooth picks imply not “staying in. I’m going to assume they are not staying in. You can correct me if needed. People have a bad habit of jamming a wire in the socket with the fuse to add a circuit. This widens the females and when the wire is removed the fuse fits loos or can fall out. Take a pic of the layout of the fuse box then you can remove the fuses like in the video. DISCONNECT BATTERIE GROUNDS. Remove the base cover like in the video and proceed one of 2 ways. Either go into the socket of the loose fuse with a small flat screw driver and pry gently to close the gap or you can pull out the female and squeeze the gap tighter. Not too tight tho. Should fix ya up if I understand the problem correctly
@bayoudiesel Sorry I didn't notice I missed spelled staying I ended up buying a used one on eBay and then fixed the old one so I have an extra one I fixed the old one after I installed the replacement one
@@keithbell8240 really glad to hear that ya got her fixed and also that the channel played a small roll. You keep her rolling and I’ll keep pushing out content that hopefully helps ya. Thanks for watchin.
The breakdown of ford numbers is First part = type of vehicle 2nd part= what the part is (fuse box) 3rd part = how many time the number has been changed The fuse box in the video is what is in the 1999-early 02 where there is a fuse box under the dash and a power distribution(fuse box) under the hood as well. All are the same as for as the internals of the box. If you get a replacement you can take a picture of yours and then move the connectors on the new box to match yours and you are good to go.
Idk why TH-cam hasn't been pushing your channel out there brother, you have a wealth of knowledge and experience with these trucks and probably others. Thank You for what you do for us that own them and have legitimate concerns with these types of issues. Thanks again Brother!!!👍👍 Jay.
We’ll get there as for as growing the channel. One side benefit at least for now is the size allows me to be able to help ppl directly from time to time. Which would probably be impossible with a really big channel. Just payin it forward bud and thank you for the compliment as well as giving my channel some of your valuable time. I hope u enjoy as well as get something out of it.
@@bayoudiesel EXACTLY 💯
Hey it got to me today and it is much needed!
@@sirseven3 very glad to be of help. And thanks for giving my channel a look. Much more to come.
That Part number "Y1C3T-14A067-AB" is also for an 01 F350 7.3L Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 SRW which is what I have, and it has the same number on the side. Thanks for the great video. I've been working in Aircraft Electronics for decades. If you take it apart and clean all the corrosion off the plastic and scrape the metal down to the bare copper so it's shinny, you might be able to fix it. Remove the metal strip from the plastic and clean it real good as I mentioned. Put some flux paste on it and use a butane plumbers torch and gently heat it and apply some new solder on the copper areas. Keep gently heating it and Use some Large Wick Braided Wire to heat the excess solder off. Clean the old flux off with some 90-100 Isopropyl Alcohol and put it back together and try it. Thanks for the great video and the pictures. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
That’s some great info. People Sometimes don’t realize that with a little elbow grease and patients they can save them selves a lot of money and learn a thing or two in the process. Thanks for the info and for watchin I really appreciate it. And I’ll pass it on.
A few years ago my truck took off across the lawn. It was a corroded fuse box, rain, and a manual transmission. I got a new box from Ford. Wish i knew this trick back then. Now i know for the future. Thank you for the video.
@@crazyheadgarage2599 rain on that fuse box can cause some very crazy things to happen. Glad ya got something out of the video. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
You called "Big Lou's" problem exactly. Changed the fuse box and wiring harness. Now he runs perfectly. Thanks for your contribution to the 7.3 community. Well done.
Really glad to hear “Big Lou” is back among the living. Good job on keeping that old iron rolling. I’m here if ya need.
@@bayoudiesel You know, it's cheaper to keep him running (even though it does cost) than to pay sales tax on a new piece of crap. For less than the sales tax on a new truck I rebuilt rear end, u joints, rear bearings, rear and front brakes, front hubs, tie rods, ball joints, sway bar, main engine wiring harness, almost all engine sensors, engine oil change, transmission service, new alternator, new main fuse box, fuses and relays, new ignition switch, pull out drink holder, roof touch up paint, headlight assemblies and bulbs, and led cargo light. And still I have no truck note. Drives like a new truck. Almost 250k miles. Next I'll change floor carpet to a rubber floor and get the seats professionally recovered. Looking for a similar aged dead truck to keep for parts and to have the engine rebuilt and kept on a pallet.
@@rickw7374 agreed. I’d much rather spend the money to keep these girls rolling than give them $85k or more for a new one. I mean come on, that much for a damn pick up? I don’t care how many bells and whistles it has is not worth that kinda money.
Highly informative!
Thank you.
You are certainly welcome. Hope it helped ya out. Thanks for watchin
Thanks for the video
I’m a proud original owner of a f-350 Lariat. 2000. 25 years and counting. I also would like to add. Along with the windshield seal
If you have cab lights. They will lose their seal and leak
Down the windshield post.
Try to put spray foam in the body seams above your fuse box i put 4 inch wide A/C aluminum foil duct tape above the fuse box and GEM module. For extra protection for years to come.
@@nelsongreen1075 all good ideas. The craziest thing I’ve seen is a guy that cut a coolant jug to make an umbrella for his fuse box. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do I guess. Appreciate the good info and thanks for watchin
Thanks man! Got a donor truck and you defiantly showed me some light on a few Gremlins...Like the truck was running and then the starter kicked in...Talk about a "RUSH" (to the battery cables) Thanks again Brother!
Been there, done that. Lmao. Glad to hear ya got some usable info and that I could be of some help. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching.
Thanks for your help I live in the rust belt and I have had some problems as you described with my 99 F250 and I didn’t know what was happening. Now thanks to your video I see why it’s happened and a way out by fixing the rotten windshield and frame it might help resolve some of the crazy issues I’m having.
Yes sir. Fuse box issues can do some crazy stuff in these trucks. Glad to hear you got some useful info. Please let me know what you find and how you fixed it. Might help some others with their projects. Appreciate you giving my channel some of your time.
I've got a 2008 E350 Super Duty van work truck 6.8 10 cylinder. I think I'm having the same kind of problem turn the key nothing anti-theft light flashes. If I turn the key multiple numerous times it'll start. Sometimes it'll just turn over but not start. I cut a hole in the floor of the van above the fuel pump and replace the fuel pump. Started right up. Two days later same thing turn over turn over turn over nothing. Or not turn over at all. I think my problems going to be in the fuse box. "corrosion". Hasn't happened to my "02" 7.3 yet. As always very helpful. By the way the local shop told me at least $800 just to diagnose the problem. Yeah right. I'll be fixing this one myself too. Thanks man keep it up.cant find folks like y'all up here in Yankee vil
Hey bud. Thanks for the compliment. I’m not to familiar with the 10cyl or vans but I’ll take a shot. Based on ur info about the security light I’m pretty sure if something is setting off the security system it will shut off the fuel pump to prevent theft. If that isn’t a concern I would look into switching that to off if possible. When the light is on do U hear the fuel pump priming?
Also. May want to read up on the security system in the manual cause I think I remember cycling the key waiting on the sex light then again maybe a few times will disarm it and let the fuel pump run. Not sure on this just something I remember from somewhere. Lol. Thinks it’s design it to slow the theft process down. U could still be dealing with a corrosion issue but the sec light make me wonder
I do hear the fuel pump when it's going to start. Sometimes I turn the key on and I get nothing nothing at all doesn't even turn over. Then other times it'll turn over but no power to the fuel pump. But then it would turn over and not start not start I tested out the fuel pump was definitely burned out. Put the new pump in and I'm back to square one starts eventually. I looked at the underhood fuse box took it apart cleaned it up sprayed it with fluid film.used contact cleaner first. It's an old work truck but it runs good '08 430k still in good shape runs great when it runs this is the only major issue I've had with it. Buffalo winter ain't only cold but tons of road salt
@@frankvacanti5277 I hear that. I guess the van fuse boxes could be prone to the same stuff the 7.3’s are. Is she throwing any codes? And are u loosing fuel pump or spark when she doesn’t want to start?
Thanks so much. Very helpful. But right now I'm digging into Injector issues. I appreciate all your videos. Keep them coming please. I wish I knew how to Edit cuz I have some great stuff to show people also.
Editing isn’t that hard. I use a free program called shot cut. There are a bunch of videos on TH-cam about every aspect of shot cut also which helps. Put some of ur stuff out there bud. If u do let me know so I can check it out.
@@bayoudiesel Thanks again. I Dig my old FORDS. Keep Them Vids coming please.
@@un-limited7009 you bet. Thanks for giving my channel some of ur time.
I have been trying to to get my truck running and I thought this was my problem but it’s not. I have o e section at the bottom left side of the fuse panel under the hood of about 5 fuses in a row that are not getting power, then inside the fuse panel in the cab, the whole bottom half of the fuse box isn’t getting power. I’m completely stumped. Any clue what it may be?
@@flynn1727 as for the power distribution box under the hood there are a few fuses that won’t get power until it is switched on. Such as head lights, wipers, trailer tow package. They will test dead uncles turned in while testing.
Now for the fuse box under the dash. My guess would be that you may have a corrosion issue causing a ground to some of the bars that are stacked in the bottom of the fuse box. Windshield leaks tend to get water right on the fuse box causing this and can create all kinds of issues.
Hope that info helps. Hit me back if you have another question. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
So you can arrange the fuses to match
Yep. Last one I did was in a stripped work truck and the fuse box was out of a loaded excursion. Took a pic of the original so I knew what slots were used and what size fuses when there and adjusted the excursion to match, deleting a lot of stuff my truck didn’t have and good to go.
Well so thankful I found your videos I’m gonna order a box off eBay as soon as I get this all figured out but in mean time is there a fix to sealing up the leak so when I replace I won’t be having repeat
Windshield leaks are common on these trucks. They will drip on the fuse box in the 99- early 02’s. Late 02’s had a wiring change and might be a bit less prone to the leak.
So the leak effects fuse boxes 2 ways. In a rain storm water will accumulate and make electrical contact. The other is if you have had an ongoing problem the flat bars in the fuse box will develop green corrosion like on a battery and bridge contacts as well.
If u think the trouble may have just been that rain you can let everything dry out and try again after fixing the leak. Which usually means pulling and resealing the windshield.
If this has been going on for a while then I’d get a fuse box
@@bayoudiesel thanks for reply I posted on ur cloning the f250 box as well before I found this video I’ve only had truck a week first big rain first sign of a problem I’ll ask previous owner but I’m sure was a problem I guess I need to figure out how to pull it out atleast check for signs of corrosion atleast it’s a automatic so clutch pedal won’t be in way again thank you so much for your help
@@jimverh1868 that last box I pulled out was on a project called the tool truck. You may want to check it out. I think I spoke a bit on either the install or removal while putting the dash back together. Either way if you have questions let me know. It’s not that hard to do.
@@bayoudiesel thank you I’ll check it out
@@jimverh1868 I’m hear if u need some help.
So you can change a fuse box fuse has to match for my F-150 to an F-350
Getting ready to change my fuse box we see if it fixes my crank no start have no wait to start light door locks go up and down when they want and radio comes on with out key in ignition
Yep. When you see crazy electrical things going on it’s usually water leaking in and causing corrosion in the fuse box or the gem module. You may want to have you windshield checked for leaks as well.
Will have windshield replacement because it’s cracked on driver side
Hope this fixes my issue
@@coolblue4077 I just had to replace one windshield and reseal another. They were leaking on the fuse box/gem module which are on top of each other in the 99-02 models. Can cause strange things like lights coming on, horn blow and other erratic electrical things.
Is there anyway to prevent this?
Good stuff very educational I m learning thank you ...
Appreciate the comment. We’ll keep them coming for ya. Hope ya enjoy and maybe get something out of them.
Mi 2001 f350 truck cranks by itself intermittently until drawn batteries for apparently same problem.
@@ManuelRamirez-bx8lk thanks for the question. So the truck cranks until batteries go down. If it’s not starting then the pcm doesn’t seem like the culprit . I would start with checking the small wire going to the starter for chafing or shorts. You may be able to play with the harness and see if it makes her crank.
Also, check your windsheild really close for possible leaks. They are know to leak on to the fuse box and gem module. if you see any green corrosion around the fuse slots water has gotten into the fuse box and that can cause all kinds of ghosts in the machine. if you find this issue you need to replace the fuse box and repair the wind shield leak to stop it. Let me know what ya find. thanks for watchin.
I got a 2000 f350 7.3 where the fuses aren't starting in I have to use toothpicks to hold them in place what's the best way to fix that myself?
Your comment says they aren’t “starting” in. But the tooth picks imply not “staying in.
I’m going to assume they are not staying in. You can correct me if needed.
People have a bad habit of jamming a wire in the socket with the fuse to add a circuit. This widens the females and when the wire is removed the fuse fits loos or can fall out.
Take a pic of the layout of the fuse box then you can remove the fuses like in the video. DISCONNECT BATTERIE GROUNDS. Remove the base cover like in the video and proceed one of 2 ways. Either go into the socket of the loose fuse with a small flat screw driver and pry gently to close the gap or you can pull out the female and squeeze the gap tighter. Not too tight tho.
Should fix ya up if I understand the problem correctly
@bayoudiesel Sorry I didn't notice I missed spelled staying I ended up buying a used one on eBay and then fixed the old one so I have an extra one I fixed the old one after I installed the replacement one
@@keithbell8240 really glad to hear that ya got her fixed and also that the channel played a small roll. You keep her rolling and I’ll keep pushing out content that hopefully helps ya. Thanks for watchin.
Thanks for your information I know what I need to do.
You are welcome bud. Hope it helps ya out.
As usual…..great info!
Thanks bud.
Fuse boxes made the same if the fuse box has the same serial number in the middle
The breakdown of ford numbers is
First part = type of vehicle
2nd part= what the part is (fuse box)
3rd part = how many time the number has been changed
The fuse box in the video is what is in the 1999-early 02 where there is a fuse box under the dash and a power distribution(fuse box) under the hood as well. All are the same as for as the internals of the box. If you get a replacement you can take a picture of yours and then move the connectors on the new box to match yours and you are good to go.